Explorations and Adventures in Equatorial Africa (2024)

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{{Template}} Explorations and Adventures in Equatorial Africa (1861) by Paul Du Chaillu.

PREFACE.

THE singular region of Equatorial Africa, the interior of which it was my fortune to be the first to explore, and of whose people and strange animal and vegetable productions I give some account in the following pages, is remarkable chiefly for its fauna, which is, in many respects, not only extraordinary, but peculiar. In this comparatively narrow belt, extending on either side of the equator, is found that monstrous and ferocious ape, the gorilla. Here, too, and here only, is the home of the very remarkable nest-building ape, the Troglodytes calvus, the nshiego mbouvé of the natives; of the hitherto unknown kooloo-kamba, another ape, no less remarkable than the T. calvus, and of the chimpanzee. North, south, and east of this region, the lion lords it in the forests and the desert: only in this tract he is not found. Thus it will be seen that this region formed a peculiarly rich field for an ardent naturalist. Game is not found in such plenty as on the vast plains of Southern Africa; there is less butchering; but, if the larder is not so well supplied, the halfstarved explorer experiences many happy days, when the discovery of a hitherto unknown animal rewards him for all his toils, dangers, and sufferings.

Not only does the fauna of this region contain a very unusualnumber of species peculiar to itself, but even some of thoseanimals which it has in common with the regions to the northand south seemed to me varieties. Thus, I feel almost certain,that the elephant of this region is a variety, distinct in severalparticulars from his South African brother.Doubtless the peculiar formation of the country causes thisexceptional condition. Instead of the vast, thinly-wooded and aridaiv PREFACE.or sparsely-watered plains of Northern, Eastern, and SouthernAfrica, the explorer finds here a region very mountainous, andso densely wooded, that the whole country may be described asan impenetrable jungle, through which man pushes on only byhewing his way with the axe. These forests, which have beenresting probably for ages in their gloomy solitude, seem unfavourable even to the rapid increase of the beasts who are theirchief denizens. There are no real herds of game; nor have thepeople of this region yet attained that primitive step in theupward march of civilization, the possession of beasts of burden.Neither horses nor cattle are known here: man, or womanrather, is the only beast of burden.The river system of this region seems to me well adaptedfor the prosecution of commercial enterprise. Until I exploredthem, the rivers known to Europeans and Americans as theNazareth, Mexias, and Fernand Vaz, were supposed to bethree distinct streams; but the reader will perceive, by reference to the accompanying map, that they are connected witheach other. The Mexias and Nazareth are only outlets of theOgobai River, which also throws a portion of its waters into theFernand Vaz, chiefly through the Npoulounay. Thus thesethree rivers are, in fact, mouths of the Ogobai; and they form,with the intervening lowlands (which are evidently alluvialdeposits) , an extensive and very complicated network of creeks,swamps, and dense forests, which I propose to call the deltaof the Ogobai. This delta is bounded on the north by theNazareth, which enters the sea in lat. 0° 41′ S. and long.9° 3′ E., and on the south by the Fernand Vaz, which falls intothe sea in lat. 1° 17′ S. , and long. 5° 58′ E. The mouth of theMexias lies between, in lat. 0° 56′ S., and long. 8° 47′ E.I have not given in the narrative any account of my exploration of this labyrinth, because it was extremely barren ofincidents interesting to the reader. It was a most tediousundertaking, and resulted only in the knowledge that this largetract is entirely uninhabited by human beings; that in the rainyPREFACE.season, when the rivers and their divergent creeks are swollen,the whole country is overflowed; and that the land is coveredwith immense forests of palm, there being found none of thecustomary mangrove-swamps. Land and water are tenantedonly by wild beasts, venomous reptiles, and intolerable swarmsof musquitoes.The entrance of the Fernand Vaz, which is one of the keys tothis region, is rendered intricate by shifting sand-bars and a verycrooked channel, which, however, carries from fifteen to twentyfeet of water at all times. It, as well as the Mexias, throws atremendous quantity of fresh water into the ocean during therainy season. So vast is this supply, and so rapid the current,that, though the mouths of these streams are but half- a-milewide, the body of fresh water launched from each, during therains, forces its separate way through the ocean for at least fouror five miles before it becomes absorbed; and I have knowntimes when the tide had no effect at all upon the vast columnof water pushing seaward.Above Monwé, for about thirty miles, the Fernand Vaz, whichhere takes the name of Rembo, flows through a country so flatthat in the rainy season its banks are overflowed for many miles,and in parts scarce a foot of dry land is in sight. Further up,the country becomes hilly, and the upper parts of the Remboand Ovenga rivers flow between steep banks, and through adecidedly mountainous region. But even here the magnificentmountains are divided by plains or broad valleys, which areoverflowed during the season of rains. On the return of thedry season, these overflows leave great quantities of decayed ordecaying matter, which, though enriching the ground, alsocause fevers. But the fevers of the interior are not so frequentnor so dangerous as those caused by the mixed salt and freshwater vegetation of the seashore; and when this region becomessettled, the mountains will afford a convenient sanitarium forwhite men.Leaving the Fernand Vaz, which, though partly fed by thea 2vi PREFACE.Ogobai, is an independent stream, having its source in theAshankolo Mountains, we come to the Ogobai, probably one ofthe largest rivers of Western Equatorial Africa. The Ogobaiis formed by the junction of two considerable streams of theinterior-the Rembo Ngouyai and the Rembo Okanda. Thefirst I partly explored; of the Rembo Okanda I know only byreport of the natives, who state that it is much larger than theNgouyai, and that its navigation is in some places partly obstructed by vast rocky boulders, which, scattered about the hillsides and on the higher plains of the interior, form a veryremarkable and peculiar feature of the landscape. The banksof the Ogobai, so far as I have explored them, are in many partssubject to annual overflow.The Rembo Ngouyai is a large stream, flowing through amountainous and splendidly wooded country, and is the most magnificent river I saw in Africa. It has numerous smaller feeders.Its navigation is unfortunately interrupted by the great Eugenieor Samba Nagoshi Fall; but it is quite possible for steamers toreach this fall from the sea; and the upper portion, above thefall, is navigable for the largest class of river-steamers duringthe greater part of the year, and flows through a region thetropical magnificence of which is quite unrivalled, and whichabounds in many precious woods, while it is also well calculatedfor a rich agricultural country. I could not help longing heartilyfor the day to come, when this glorious stream will be alive withthe splash of paddlewheels, and its banks lined with tradingand missionary posts. Ebony, bar-wood, and India-rubber,palm-oil, beeswax, and ivory, are the natural products of thisregion, so far as my limited opportunities allowed me to ascertain. But any tropical crop will grow in this virgin soil; andit needs only the cunning hand and brain of the white man torender this whole tract a great producing country.My little knowledge of geology, and the impossibility ofcarrying heavy specimens, prevented me from making usefulobservations on the geological structure of this region. I canPREFACE .viionly say that micaceous schist, talcose shale, and quartz, arefound abundantly in the mountains, together with conglomeratesand various sandstones, while a red sandstone seems most toabound in the Ashira country. Iron is plentiful; the ore, whichis rich, is found cropping out of the ground in many parts.Copper I did not meet with, though it is brought by the Loandonegroes from the southern interior to the seashore, where it ispurchased by Europeans.The mountain-range which I explored on my last journey, andwhich is laid down on the map as far as my extreme point, orterminus, seems to me, beyond doubt, to be part of a great chainextending nearly across the continent without ever leaving theline of the equator more than two degrees. Not only were theappearances such, as far as I was able to penetrate, but allaccounts of the natives and of their slaves tend to make thiscertain. Some of the slaves of the Apingi are brought from adistance to the eastward which they counted as twenty days'journey; and they invariably protested that the mountains insight from their present home continue in an uninterruptedchain far beyond their own country-in fact, as far as theyknew.Judging, therefore, from my own examination, and from themost careful inquiries among people of the far interior, I thinkthere is good reason to believe that an important mountain-rangedivides the continent of Africa nearly along the line of the equator,starting on the west from the range which runs along the coastnorth and south, and ending in the east, probably, in the countrysouth of the mountains of Abyssinia, or perhaps terminatingabruptly to the north of the Lake Tanganyika of Captains Burtonand Speke.In the northern slope of this great range originate, probably,many of the feeders of the Niger, Lake Tchad, and the Nile;while of the streams rising in the southern slope, it is probablethat some join their waters to the Rembo Okanda, the RemboNgouyai, and the Congo, and others flow south into the Zambesi,viii PREFACE.and into the great lake basin, or chain of lakes of Easternand Central Africa; tending to corroborate the theory sagaciously laid down by that eminent geographer Sir RoderickMurchison, as far back as 1852, and afterwards confirmed bythe great Livingstone. *To this mountain-range, so far as I have followed it and ascertained its existence, I propose that the native name Nkoomoonabouali, be given, from the splendid peak which I discovered,and which forms the western point of the range. I think itprobable that the impenetrable forests of this mountain-rangeand its savage inhabitants together put a stop to the victorioussouthward course of the Mohammedan conquest. South of theequator, at any rate, they have never penetrated.Of the eight years during which I have visited this region ofAfrica, the present volume contains the record of only the lastfour-1856, '57, '58, and '59-which alone were devoted to asystematic exploration of the interior. The first four years werechiefly devoted to commercial pursuits in which I was engagedconjointly with my father. Thus when I started as a traveller, Ihad the very great advantages of tolerably thorough acclimation, and a knowledge of the languages and habits ofthe seashoretribes, which proved of infinite service to me among the tribesof the interior, with whom I was in every case able to hold converse, if not by word of mouth, at least by a native interpreterwith whose language I was familiar.A brief summary of the results of my four years' travel willperhaps interest the reader. I travelled-always on foot, andunaccompanied by other white men-about 8000 miles. I shot,stuffed, and brought home over 2000 birds, of which more than60 are new species, and I killed upwards of 1000 quadrupeds, ofwhich 200 were stuffed and brought home, with more than 80skeletons. Not less than 20 of these quadrupeds are speciesh*therto unknown to science. I suffered fifty attacks of the

• See ' Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, ' vol. xxii. , 1852, President's Address, and Livingstone's Missionary Travels, ' p. 500.

PREFACE.ixAfrican fever, taking, to cure myself, more than fourteen ouncesof quinine. Of famine, long-continued exposures to the heavytropical rains, and attacks of ferocious ants and venomous flies,it is not worth while to speak.My two most severe and trying tasks were the transportationof my numerous specimens to the seashore, and the keeping ofa daily journal, both of which involved more painful care thanI like even to think of.The volume now respectfully presented to the public has beenwritten out from my faithfully-kept journals. I have strivenonly to give a very plain account of a region which is yet virginground to the missionary and the trader-those twin pioneers ofcivilization-and which affords a fertile field for the operationsof both.Before closing, it is my duty as well as pleasure to acknowledge gratefully very many kindnesses received from the officersand members of the Boston Society of Natural History, whosecheerfully-given aid greatly lightened for me the tedious taskof cataloguing my large collection of specimens of NaturalHistory. Also I owe especial thanks to my friend, Dr. JeffriesWyman, the eminent Professor of Comparative Anatomy inHarvard University, for much valuable assistance; to Dr. S.Kneeland, the able corresponding secretary of the Boston Societyof Natural History; to the Geographical and Statistical Societyof New York, and to the American Ethnological Society; andlastly to the many friends whose kind memories were proof againstmy long absence in Africa, and whose welcome on my return lentadditional force to my gratitude to that God who so mercifullywatched over and preserved me in my wanderings. I shouldnot do justice to my own feelings if I did not also acknowledgethe many proofs of kindness that have been bestowed upon mesince my arrival in good old England; especially the heartywelcome I have received from various learned Societies, particularly the Royal Geographical Society, who, in order to showhow much interest they take in zoological researches, as corro-X PREFACE.borative illustrations of geography, have allowed the use of theirrooms for the exhibition of my collection, in order that thepublic may view some of the specimens brought home by mefrom Africa.The long and tedious labour of preparing this book for thepress leaves me with the conviction, that it is much easier tohunt gorillas than to write about them-to explore new countriesthan to describe them. During the twenty months which Ihave passed in the process of writing out my journals since myreturn to the United States, I have often wished myself back inmy African wilds. I can only hope that the reader, when hecloses the book, will not think this labour wasted; and withthis hope I bid him a friendly farewell.London, April 30th, 1861 .CONTENTS.CHAPTER I.Purpose of my Explorations - Facilities - Nature of the Country to beexplored The Gaboon -The Mpongwe People -Their Jealousy of Travellers Trade Peculiarities -Missionaries - Baraka - --the Missionaries teach― A Day's Work on the Station-CHAPTER II.-Manner in whichPage 1The Gaboon People -Mysterious Disappearance of African Tribes-Mpongwe Villages - Houses, how built - A Mpongwe Interior Costume AnAfrican Trader Monopolies The Commission Business among the-Extensive System of Credit -Native JealousyA Day with an African Trader - Time of no value - Mpongwe CoastingtradeTheir Vessels -Products of the Gaboon -The Ivory- trade .. 7Negroes " Trust " -CHAPTER III.--Some Causes of the Decrease of the Mpongwe -Restrictions as to Intermarriage Last Days of King Glass - - Public Opinion on the Gaboon —Mourning for a King - " Making " a new King - Character of theMpongwe -An African Gentleman -- Food - AgricultureCHAPTER IV.17Corisco the Beautiful - The Mbengas — Missionary Stations African Wake-Set out for the Muni - An Explorer's Outfit — Plan of Operations —Poor Debtor in Africa -Lynch Law-- My Canoe - The Muni -Mangrove Swamps - Lost King Dayoko - SalutationsCHAPTER V.24Dayoko - African Royalty -Foreign Relations and Diplomacy in the Interior ― - The Value of a Wife - Negotiations -The Dry Season - The MboushaTribe A Wizard - A Fetich Trial and a Murder - Progress - Excitement of the Shekianis at my supposed Wealth - - The Ntambounay —TheSierra del Crystal -Lost again— Approaches of Interior Village - Agricultural Operations — Famine .. 35xii---CONTENTS.CHAPTER VI.―--Hold of a Traveller on the Natives Fruits- The Mbondemo -TheirTowns Houses - Morals of War Condition of Women- Women asBearers The Hills -A Caravan — Mutiny — Rapids of the Ntambounay - Summit of the Sierra - Contemplations interrupted by a Serpent -The first Gorilla —Appearance in Motion- Famine in the CampNative Stories of the Gorilla - Superstitious Notions about the Animal -Lifelessness of the Forest -A BeetraiCHAPTER VII.――.. Page 48-Famine -Encounter with the Fan -A Desperate Situation - Fright at my Appearance A Fan Warrior - His Weapons - Fetiches WomenI am closely examined -Gorilla-hunt - Signs of the Animal's PresenceAppearance of the Male -Roar - Conduct - My first Gorilla - Divisionof the Spoils Superstitions —Wandering BakalaiTheir Fear of Night —Cooking -Fan Townsented to his Cannibal Majesty·Description of his Majesty. - Mbene's Glory--

Mournful Songs -

Cannibal Signs — Pre- -- The King is scared at my Appearance –- The King in his War- dress- Arms of the Fan- A grand Dance -The MusicCHAPTER VIII.65-Hanou, or ElephantThe grand Hunt - Fan Mode of capturing Elephants -A pitched BattleMan killed by an Elephant - Grace before Meat among the Fan - The use of a Dead Hunter Habits of the Elephanttrap -Elephant MeatA Fan Wedding -Musical Instrument--- Condition of Women - Marriage Ceremonies-— Corpse brought in to be eatenHuman Flesh prized - Stories of Fan Cannibalism - Encroachments Westward of the Fans- Their Origin― Colour — Tattooing —Trade —Iron-smelting - Fan Blacksmiths -Bellows and other Tools - Pottery-Agriculture Food Slavery - The Oshebo - Beyondtions - Sorcery — Charms — Idols---CHAPTER IX.― Supersti- 82The Return Trip -Climate of the Mountain Region -Native Courage--Mode of Warfare - Heavy Rains On the Noya -Visits to Native Chiefs Ezongo Attempt at Black-mail - Alapay -The MbichoNet-hunting - Bad Shooting of the Negroes -Attacked by the Bashi- kouay Ants- -Toilet of the Mbicho Superstition about the Moon -Ivory of this District peculiar - Igouma -Fan of the Country — Animmense Cavern - Crossing a Mangrove SwampCHAPTER X...Up the Moondah -Vexations of a Traveller in Africa---.. 98Mangrove SwampsMbicho Men run off-Bashikouay again - Missionary Station - TheBar-wood Trade- Manner of getting Bar-wood —The India-rubber Vine- How Rubber is gathered - Torturing a Woman -Adventure with aWild Bull - Lying out for Game- Bullock and Leopard -Birds .. 116-CONTENTS.CHAPTER XI.xiiiCreek Navigation - Nocturnal Habits of the Negroes -A Royal Farm- Beach-travel ― Canoe-building -- Ogoula- Limbaihunter In the Surf - Shark River -· Prairies--A great ElephantSangatanga -King Bango An Audience of Royalty - A Ball - Barracoons UnwelcomeGuest A Slaver in the Offing —Decline of the Slave-trade on this Coast-- Idols .. ..-Page 127Set out for the Interior --―-CHAPTER XII.Prairies- Odd Mistake - Hippopotami -Ngola -Negro Theology - Hunts -Torture of a Woman-Rum-The Shekiani Appearance, Manners, and Customs Polygamy Marriage Superstitions Bos brachicheros — Camp in the Woods -African Humour -Solid Comfort Hunting with a Leopard -Great Jollification Superstition about the Leopard - Elephant- shooting- Meeting a Boa Stalking the Wild Bull - Return to Sangatanga - I am accused ofSorcery Idols - Bango's Treasures - Burial-ground of the Barracoons- Disgusting Sights -Status of Slaves in Africa - Oroungou CemeteryAn African Watering-place- Fetich Point-- 149CHAPTER XIII.---99-―--------The "Camma Country Coast Surf- Trade- The Caroline A mixedCrew - A dusky Bride - A Squall On her Beam-ends NativeTraders Ranpano― Sangala Troubles —Nearly a Fight -The City ofWashington - Attempt at Assassination - The Camma People -Ani- ambia River Navigation - Men refuse to advance King OlengaYombi A Dance Fetich-houses- Spirit Worship -A mad Bull -Cheating the King—Live Gorilla brought in— How caught —Ferocityof the Animal - Joe escapes - Is re-captured - Habits and Peculiaritiesof Joe - Hippopotamus- shooting -Night-hunting -Hippopotamus-Meat-Habits of the Animal - Hide -Use of the Tusks - They capsizeBoats Peaceable if not attacked - Voice Combative -Adventureswith Hippopotami .. 186―..-CHAPTER XIV.--..The Anengue Lake - Canoes - River Scenery -Nature of the Country -The Lagoons -Navigation - India-rubber Vines - Mercantile Products andFacilities -Porcupine-hunts -Quengueza, the great King - Change ofVariety in Animal Life -Birds of Passage -Fish - Bee-eater - Curious Habits of this Bird Serpents — The Rivers in the Dry Season-The Lagoons in the Dry Season Immense Numbers of CrocodilesDamagondai - Witchcraft - A Curtain LectureSeason -- ----Shimbouvenegani —An Olako Royal Costume Discover a new Ape The NshiegoMbouvé, or Nest-Building Ape (Troglodytes Calvus) -How they Build -Habits - Food - Description of the first Specimen -A Crocodile- hunt--xiv CONTENTS.Anengue Canoes -The Ogata -Turtle - How the Crocodile gets hisPrey -A Fight looms up ahead — Oshoria backs down - People of theAnengue -Family Idols - Worship - Sickness - Bola Ivoga - AfricanFestivals A clear Case of Witchcraft -A Native Doctor -Exorcisinga Witch -My Town is deserted I am made a Chief - We get a secondyoung Gorilla - I am poisoned with Arsenic- Trial of the PoisonerSingular Effect of Arsenic―-·· Page 218CHAPTER XV.―--― --―Message and Hostage from Quengueza - Outfit - Makondai · -Fame of Mr.Colt Goumbi - Reception - Family Arrangements in Africa - Inter- marriage Driving out a Witch - Riches among the Camma - AfricanShams A Sunday Lecture Gorilla shot The Poison OrdealMboundou - Effects of the Poison -Native Gorilla Stories- CharmsYoung Female Gorilla caught Superstitious Belief- Trouble in theRoyal Family - A Holy Place - Obindji's Town -A Royal Introduction-Houses - Decency in Obindji's Town -Surprise of the Negroes at myAppearance Kooloo- Ordeal of the Ring boiled in Oil - Bashikouay kamba Another new Ape- Gouamba, or Hunger for Meat —Gracebefore Meat A Day's Work in Africa - Checks - I am counted aMagician ..―.. 247--CHAPTER XVI.-―--Venomous Flies — Gorilla —Cutting Ebony -The Ebony-tree- Anguilai's Town - Superstitions Severe Sickness - Kindness of the NativeWomen to me - Child murdered for Sorcery- New Cure for Sterility—Ivory-eaters - Manioc Capture a young Nshiego Mbouvé— Its Grief forits Mother Biography of Nshiego Tommy Easily tamed HisTricks - Habits - Love for Wine and Scotch Ale -His Death CuriousColour Famine -Njavi Oil - Gorillas - Evidence of their vast Strength— Guaniony — Return to Obindji's -Letters and Papers from HomeAstonishment of the Negroes at my Reading -The Ofoubou River Starvation Njali- Coody - The Njambai Festival - Woman's Rightsamong the Bakalai - A Midnight Festival -A Mystery -An Attemptat Black-mail - Nature of the Njambai, or Guardian Spirit— Hunter killed by Gorilla — Native Superstitions -The Dry Season GouambaThe Eloway Fly - Huge Serpents - Enormous Gorilla killed —Curious Superstition about the Gorilla and a Pregnant Woman - Animalspeculiar to this Region -Generosity of the Blacks - - The Superstition of Roondah - Return ..--..--275CHAPTER XVII.- The Ants of Equatorial Africa —The Bashikouay -The Red Ant— TheNchellelay - The Little Ant —The Red Leaf- Ant - The Nest-building Ant .. .. 311CONTENTS.CHAPTER XVIII.The Seasons and the Fevers of Equatorial AfricaCHAPTER XIX.XV. Page 318Politics: the Government, Superstitions, and Slave System of Equatorial Africa .. 329CHAPTER XX.Account and Comparison of the great Apes of Africa: the Troglodytes Gorilla,the T. Kooloo-kamba, the Chimpanzee (T. niger), and the Nshiego Mbouvé, or T. calvusCHAPTER XXI.On the Bony Structure of the Gorilla and other African Apes ..The Bakalai -CHAPTER XXII.--.. 341.. 363Qualities -Extent of Region in which they are met with- Reasons for Intermixture of Tribes - The Bakalai are Rovers - Fear ofDeath - Old People abandoned Treachery Case of RetaliationWomen-palavers Arbitration A Fetich Palaver -Appearance of theBakalaiSlaves ----Property Duties of a Wife - Restrictions on Marriage ·Costume Grass- cloth-- Diseases - Leprosy - Music―..xx-- Hunters Fishing -Great Traders -CHAPTER XXIII.―383Departure for the Interior — Meeting of the People —Address of Ranpano -I am made a Makaga -Use of Quinine - A Sick Friend - Death in Goumbi Sorcery, and how it is discovered Great ExcitementTerrible Tragedy -The Victims -The Accusations -The Poison- cupThe Execution - Visit from Adouma - Sincerity of the Doctors (?) — Upthe River - Manga-hunts - A Manga Doctor -Keeping a Creditor -Querlaouen An African Tragedy Fight on the RiverAshira-land —The Ashira Plains - Splendid ViewCHAPTER XXIV...- Towards.. . 392We enter Ashira-land - Astonishment of the People at my Appearance -Their Fear of my Eyes - Grand Reception — Message and Presents fromthe Ashira King -Kendo -King Olenda- His Address to me I aman Object of great Wonder - My Clock a Fetich- Features of the PlainVillages -Houses -Agriculture -Appearance of the Ashira -Dress-Grass-cloth - Loom - Curious Custom of Young Women - Operationof Dyeing -Manner of Hairdressing -Peculiarities - Fears of the SlavesCondition of Women - Marriage Splendid Waterfall------- MountNchondo - A Superstition about it A Case of Insanity - Ascent ofMount Andele -Meet a Nshiego Mbouvé - How it rests at Night—Attempt to ascend the Nkoomoo-nabouali - Gorilla killed - Difficultiesof the Ascent -Starvation .. 408xvi CONTENTS.CHAPTER XXV.------―The Ashira grow Jealous of my Projects - Set out for the Apingi Country -Olenda blesses us -The Passage of the Ovigui - Rude Bridge - Featuresof the Country -We meet Gorillas The Roar of the Gorilla - HisWalk -Great Strength - Meet the Apingi King - I fall into an Elephant- hole -Famine - Musquitoes - We see the Rembo Apingi River - Reception among the Apingi — Address of the King -I am offered a Slavefor my Supper · - Wonder of the People at my Appearance -The mysterious Sapadi, a cloven-footed Race - My Clock is thought a guardianSpirit I am asked to make a Mountain of Beads and Trade-goods —Fruitfulness of the Women- Appearance of the People A Leopard- trap- Invested with the Kendo Palm-oil Palm-wine Drunkennessuniversal Tattooing- Dress of the Women Lack of Modesty -I amclaimed as a Husband - Weaving of Grass- cloth -Property among theApingi -The Apingi Loom -The Ndengui - Fetich to kill Leopards -War-belt ..-..----.. Page 428CHAPTER XXVI.- ―The Ceremony―Bible-reading - The Negroes are frightened and run awayof Bongo -Its Importance -Curious Phase of African Slavery — Pre- parations to ascend the River Fetiches - Apingi Villages Superstitions Spiders Curious Manner of catching their Prey - NewAnimals Capsized — Putrid Corpse in a Village -Curious Manner ofBurial -Leave the River -The Region beyond - Return to Remandji's Town Explore the Mountains - The Isogo Beyond the Isogo Ultima Thule - My Shoes worn out Starvation Great SufferingShoot a Gorilla - - Illness - Home-sick - The Return to the SeashoreEtita a very singular Disease The Remedy Heavy RainsUncomfortable Night- Fierce Attack of Bashikouay Ants - Difference ofSeasons - Arrival in Biagano —Close-—―An448APPENDIX.A. THE FAUNA OF EQUATORIAL AFRICAB. THE LANGUAGES OF EQUATORIAL AFRICA

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471474LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.1. The Gorilla2. Mponge Woman, showing the Manner of dressing Hair3. Head-waters of the Ntambounay4. Mbondemo Man, and Woman carrying her Child 5. Fan Warrior6. My first Gorilla .. ..7. Grand Reception by the Cannibals8. Ndiayai, King of the Fans9. Fan Bowman10. Poisoned Arrows of the Fan11. Fan Knife and Battle-axes12. Fan Shield and Spears13. Fan Drummer and Handja-player14. Elephant Battue among the Fans.. Frontispiece.PAGE 657646671747777787980.. 818387919293.. 9715. The Handja, Fan musical Instrument 16. Fan Blacksmiths17. Fan Pottery18. Fan Pipes19. Fan Spoon20. Crossing a Mangrove-Swamp21. To keep the Devil out22. The Leopard and his Prey23. Shekiani Spoons24. Wambee: the Shekiani Banjo ... 114115.. 125.. 161.. 16325. Encamped for the Night ..26. Ncheri, a diminutive Gazelle27. Niaré, the wild Bull of Equatorial Africa28. Camma Man and Woman ..29. River Navigation in Equatorial Africa30. Native tossed by a Wild Bull31. Young Gorilla ..32. Young Nshiego Mbouvé..33. Crocodile-hunting on Lake Anengue 34. Idol of the Slaves ··35. Ouganga exorcising a Sorcerer 36. Reception at Goumbi37. Mboundou Leaf ..38. Obindji in his Easy-chair .. 39. The Kooloo- kamba ..40. Ebony Leaves, male and female41. The Mboco, or Ivory- eater42. Harp ofthe Bakalai43. Hunter killed by a Gorilla44. The Bongo Antelope.. 166. 168. 175.. 196.. 199.. 204.. 206232234238.. 241.. 250.. 257.. 267... 270.. 278.. 282.. 294..297306xviii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.45. The Bashikouay Ant ..46. Whip for the Women47. Head of Gorilla .. ..48. Nshiego Mbouvé and Young 49. Head of Kooloo- kamba50. Ear of Kooloo-kamba51. Skeletons of Man and the Gorilla52. Skulls from photographs, Plate I.No. 1. Man, Caucasian,وودو2. Gorilla, male.3. Gorilla, female...53. Skulls from photographs, Plate II...No. 7. Gorilla, female."" 8. Gorilla, male.99 9. Man, Caucasian.54. Skulls from photographs, Plate III.No. 13. Nshiego mbouvé, young.99 14. Australian."" 15. Nshiego mbouvé.55. Decapitation scene at Goumbi56. The Kendo ..57. Ashira Tobacco..58. Ashira Thread and Needle59. Ashira Weapons ..60. Ashira Belles61. Liamba Leaf62. White-fronted wild Hog63. Nshiego Mbouvé in his Shelter64. Ashira Housekeeper65. Bridge over the Ovigui 66. Death of the Gorilla67. Apingi Man and Woman68. An Apingi Village69. The Kendo Squirrel70. The Anomalurus Beldeni ..71. Apingi ToolsNo. 4. Kooloo-kamba.99 5. Nshiego mbouvé.6. Chimpanzee.PAGE 311.. 334.. 356. 359360361.. 370371373No. 10. Kooloo- kamba."" 11. Negro."" 12. Chimpanzee... .. 375No. 16. Gorilla, young."" 17. Gorilla, red rump."" 18. Gorilla, shedding teeth... 398410·· 413.. 414415416.. 419.. 422.. 423427431434442.. 450453455464467470at the end.72. Ibeka, Bakalai musical Instrument73. Rattle, to drive the Devil out74. Map of Equatorial Africa, showing the line of M. Du Chaillu'sExplorationsBayerischeStaatsbibliothekMÜNCHENEXPLORATIONS AND ADVENTURESINEQUATORIAL AFRICA.CHAPTER I.Purpose of my Explorations - Facilities-- Nature of the Country to be explored The Gaboonlers- -The Mpongwe People -Their Jealousy of Travel- Trade Peculiarities- Missionaries Baraka Manner in whichthe Missionaries teach-- A Day's Work on the Station.―― ―I LEFT America for the Western Coast of Africa in the monthof October, 1855. My purpose was to spend some years in theexploration of a region of territory lying between lat. 2° northand 2° south, and stretching back from the coast to the mountaincalled the Sierra del Crystal, and beyond as far as I shouldbe able to penetrate.rangeThe coast-line of this region is dotted here and there withnegro villages, and at a few points " factories " have been established for the prosecution of general trade. The power andknowledge of the white man extend but a very few miles fromthe coast, and the interior was still a terra incognita. Of itstribes, several of whom were reported to be cannibals, nothingwas known, though terrible stories were told of their dark superstitions and untameable ferocity; of its productions only arough guess could be made from the scant supplies of ivory,ebony, bar-wood, and caoutchouc which were transmitted to thecoast by the people inhabiting the river-banks. Ofthe naturalhistory-which was the subject that interested me most-sufficient was known to assure me that here was a field worthy ofevery effort of an explorer and naturalist.This unexplored region was the home of that remarkable ape,the fierce, untameable gorilla, which approaches nearest, inphysical conformation and in certain habits, to man, and whoseB2 THE GABOON. CHAP. I.unconquerable ferocity has made it the terror of the bravestnative hunters-an animal, too, of which hitherto naturalistsand the civilized world knew so little, that the name even wasnot found in most natural histories. Here, too, in these densewoods, were to be found-if the natives told aright-the nestbuilding nshiego-mbouvé, an ape next in the scale to the gorilla;several varieties of other apes; hippopotami and manatees, in therivers; and birds and beasts of many and various kinds, manyentirely unknown to us, in the forests and among the hills.To ascend the various rivers, hunt in the woods, and acquaintmyself alike with the haunts and habits of the gorilla, and withthe superstitions, customs, and modes of life of the black tribes,who had not hitherto been visited by white men: these wereamong the chief objects of my present visit to the African Coast.Another purpose I had in view was to ascertain if in the interior,among the mountainous ranges in which the rivers took theirrise, there was not to be found a region of country fertile andpopulous, and at the same time healthy, where the missionaries,who now suffer and die on the low coast, could work in safetyand to advantage, and where might be established profitabletrading-stations, which would benefit alike whites and natives.Several years' residence on the Coast, where my father hadformerly a factory, had given me a knowledge of the languages,habits, and peculiarities of the Coast natives, which I hoped tofind serviceable in my interior explorations, and had also sufficedto inure my constitution in some degree to the severities of anAfrican hot season, or at least to familiarize me with the bestmeans for preserving health and life against the deadly fevers ofthe Coast.The Gaboon River, which takes its rise among the Sierra delCrystal mountains, empties its sluggish waters into the Atlantica few miles north of the equator. Its mouth forms a bay, whichis the finest harbour on the West Coast; and here on the rightbank the French formed a settlement and built a fort in theyear 1842. It was under the protection of this fort that myfather for several years, through agents, carried on a trade withthe natives, and here I gained my first knowledge of Africa andmy first acquaintance with the Gaboon tribes.When I returned now, after an absence of some years, myarrival was hailed with joy by my former acquaintances amongCHAP. I. THE MPONGWE -TRADE. 3the blacks, who thought that I had come back to trade. Thenegroes of the West Coast are the most eager and the shrewdesttraders I have ever met; and they were overjoyed at the prospect of dealing with, and perhaps cheating, an old friend likemyself. Their disappointment was great, therefore, when I wasobliged to inform them that I had come with no goods to sell,but with the purpose to explore the country, of which I hadheard so many wonderful stories from them, and to hunt wildbirds and beasts.At first they believed I was joking. When they saw landedfrom the vessel which brought me no " trade," but only an outfitof all things necessary for a hunter's life in the African wilds,they began perforce to believe in my stated purpose. Thentheir amazement and perplexity knew no bounds.Some thought I was out of my senses, and pitied my father,whom they all knew, for being troubled with such a good-fornothing son.Some thought I had ulterior objects, and were alarmed lest Ishould secretly try to wrest the trade of the interior out of theirhands.These Mpongwes, or Coast tribes, hold in their hands, as willbe explained farther on, the trade with the back country of theGaboon River; and the slightest suspicion that I was about tointerfere with this profitable monopoly sufficed to create greatterror in their trade-loving souls. They surrounded me, eachwith his tale of the horrors and dangers of a voyage " up thecountry," asserting that I should be eaten up by cannibals,drowned in rivers, devoured by tigers and crocodiles, crushed byelephants, upset by hippopotami, or waylaid and torn to piecesby the gorilla.But when I convinced them that I had no designs upon theirtrade, and that my purposed travels and hunts would not affecttheir interests, all but a few stedfast old friends left me to myfate.As I intended to remain a little time on the Gaboon to moreperfectly acclimate myself, I took up my residence among myfriends of many years, the American missionaries, whose stationis at Baraka, eight miles from the mouth of the river. Here Ifound a welcome in the hospitable home of my friend, the Rev.William Walker, and was able to enjoy for a little while longerB 24 BARAKA-MISSIONS. CHAP. I.the comforts of civilized life and the consolation of a Christiansocial circle, which were soon to be left behind me for a longtime.Baraka is the head station of the American Board of ForeignMissions on the Gaboon River, and, indeed, the only missionthe board has as yet on the Western Coast. It was establishedin 1842 by Rev. J. L. Wilson.Baraka is a Mpongwe word, derived from barracoon, a slavefactory or inclosure. Strangely enough, the very site whencenow the Gospel is taught to these benighted Africans, and wheretheir children are instructed in the knowledge and duties ofChristianity and civilized life—this very place was once, and notmany years ago, the site of a slave-factory, where the cruelslave-trade was carried on with much energy and success.Baraka is situated at the summit of a beautiful hill, distant afew hundred yards from the shore, and about eight miles abovethe river's mouth. The native villages surround the base of thehill, and are scattered along the river-bank, and are thus easilyaccessible to the missionaries, who visit them at all times, andpreach to the natives several times a week.The missionary grounds are spacious, and are surrounded witha noble hedge of fragrant lime-trees. The buildings are mostlyof bamboo-which is the best building-material on this part ofthe coast-and consist of two dwellings, occupied by the missionary families; the church building, which has some fineshade-trees in front; the storehouse, the schoolhouse, a littlebuilding containing the missionary library, houses where thechildren attached to the mission are lodged; and, finally, thekitchen-kitchens being in the tropics necessarily separate fromthe dwellings and the other necessary offices, among whichfigure fowl-houses, &c. Behind the houses is a fine orchard,containing various fruit-trees, all planted by the missionaries, aswere also the fine cocoanut, mango, and other trees which arescattered about the premises, and beneath whose grateful shadethe houses are built.The missionary establishment begins its day with prayers,conducted, for the benefit of the children, in the Mpongwelanguage.After prayers the girls and boys clear up their dormitoriesand the schoolrooms, and arrange everything for the day'sCHAP. I. A DAY AT THE MISSIONS.105labours. This is carried on under the superintendence of themissionary ladies.Next comes breakfast, when the children are arranged aboutthe tables in their neat dresses, and taught to eat after the mannerof civilized people.A little before nine o'clock the ringing of a bell calls thechildren who live at home in the villages to assemble in theschoolroom; and here, presently, the work of instruction goesbusily on, being begun with prayers and the singing of a hymnin the native tongue. The missionaries and their wives arehere assisted by native teachers, who are able to take charge ofthe less-advanced classes. The children are taught in theirnative tongue first, and after mastering their ABC go on toreading the Scriptures in the Mpongwe. Then follow lessonsin geography, arithmetic, history, and writing, and Englishlessons. Many of the scholars are bright and well advanced,reading English well, and having a good understanding ofhistory and geography, and even writing in English. There is,of course, much attention given to religious instruction; and, byreading, explanations, and inculcation of Bible precepts, effortsare made to settle the rising generation firmly in the great lifeprinciples of the religion of Christ.It is only upon the children that the labours of the missionaries can have any important effects. The older nativesare dull, lazy, and distrustful. They adhere to their vile superstitions, and are with difficulty influenced. If they come tochurch, it is too often out of curiosity, or to please the preacher,or from some fancied advantage to themselves. The children ,on the contrary, as all children, are bright, docile, easily trained;and in these the hope of christianizing Africa rests.On two or three afternoons in the week the girls are collectedin a sewing-circle, where the ladies of the mission instruct themin the use of the needle, and practise them in making their owndresses and clothing for their brothers.Several times during the week there are prayer-meetings,when the Word of God is explained to the heathen.Saturday is a holiday for the children, who then play, andprepare themselves for the Sabbath. Sunday is the great dayof the week; then the bell calls all who will come together inthe little bamboo church. The missionary children and employés6 MPONGWE HAIR-DRESSING. CHAP. I.attend, dressed in their best; and even the heathen of thevillage follow this custom, and are found in church wearingtheir best garments, perhaps their only ones. There the preacherspeaks to them of the wisdom and goodness of God, and all,heathen and Christian, join in singing praises to His holy name.The audience is generally attentive and interested. But thepositive success of the mission is so far not great. How shouldit be? To bring light out of such darkness, to remove thesuperstitions, the ignorance, the idleness and wickedness inwhich these poor heathen are steeped, is a labour of many years.Many times, doubtless, my poor friends the missionaries are discouraged at the slight result of their hard labour: but they dotheir best, and wisely leave the rest to God, knowing that Heworks in His own good time, and often effects great ends withvery slight means.Mpongwe Woman-Mode of dressing the Hair.CHAP. II. MYSTERIOUS DISAPPEARANCE OF AFRICAN TRIBES. 7-CHAPTER II.-The Gaboon People -Mysterious Disappearance of African Tribes- MpongweVillages Houses, how built -A Mpongwe Interior - Costume — AnAfrican Trader - Monopolies — The Commission Business among theNegroes " Trust " -Extensive System of Credit -- Native Jealousy — ADay with an African Trader - Time of no value Mpongwe Coasting- trade- Their Vessels Products of the Gaboon -The Ivory- trade.-THE object of my stay at this time (January, 1856) was that Imight become thoroughly acclimated before setting out on myinterior explorations. I had known the Gaboon country andpeople for several years, but took occasion at this time to studyclosely the habits and customs, and to restudy the language, ofthis tribe-the Mpongwe-who, once numerous, are now, likeso many of the African tribes, from various reasons, entirelydisappearing.The causes for this mysterious and, to some extent, unaccountable extermination of certain tribes, who die out, leaving no markbehind them, I shall consider in some future chapter. The factis patent to every observer.The Mpongwe are a branch of one of the great families of thenegro race, which has moved gradually from the head-waters ofthe Nazareth down toward the seashore, extending its limitsmeantime to the north and south, until now they are found fromthe Gaboon River on the north to Cape St. Catherine on the south.A portion have taken possession of the seashore, and others arelocated inland. They have probably taken the place of othertribes who have disappeared in the strange way in which eventhe Mpongwe are nowgradually lessening; while the Ndina tribeis nearly gone, only three persons remaining of what was once anumerous people. They die, and little more can be said.All the divisions of the Mpongwe speak the same language,with a difference of only a few words; though others again, saudwiched between, speak an entirely different tongue. The migrations of the great African nations cannot be understood, till weknow more about the interior. I know only that there are eightMPONGWE VILLAGES. CHAP. II.different tribes now settled along the coast south of the Gaboonand in the interior, who speak the same language and have evidently a common origin.The Mpongwe inhabit mostly the right side of the Gaboon forabout thirty miles up. They live in villages, which are generallylocated with particular regard to the trading facilities affordedby the position, for these negroes are inveterate traders-in fact,the most intelligent and acute merchants on the coast.The Mpongwe villages, though not extensive, are the neatestand best arranged I have seen in Africa. They have generallybut one main street, on both sides of which the houses are built.Sometimes there are a few short cross- streets. In a considerablevillage, the main street is often 20 yards wide and 200 yardslong. The houses, of course, vary in size according to the wealthof the owner. They are built of a kind of bamboo, which isobtained from a species of palm very plentiful hereabouts, andwhose leaves also furnish them mats for the roofs. Indeed, thispalm is one of the most generally useful products of the countryto the negroes.The houses are always of quadrangular form, and from 20to 100 feet in length or breadth. The principal room is in thecentre. The floor is of clay, which is pounded hard, and by longuse becomes a hard and clean flooring. Both houses and streetare neatly kept.The walls are built up by first driving stakes into the ground,and to these stakes neatly tying the split bamboos. One set istied outside and another inside, and the crevices which are leftbetween are made close with the leaves of the palm-tree. Thusthe walls are smooth and glossy, and perfectly clean. Near thecreeks they get a large yellowish-white bamboo, which has a particularly fine appearance.The building of such a house is a matter of considerable importance to a Mpongwe man. He has great quantities of mpavo-the matting for the roof-made up ready, then collects a sufficiency of the bamboo, which has sometimes to be brought aconsiderable distance up the river, and finally, getting all hisslaves together, marks out his ground-plan, drives in his stakes,and puts up the walls. Then comes the question of doors andwindows, in which each man exercises his own taste, which givesa certain pleasing variety to the outsides. As for the interior,the various rooms are fitted up with all the riches of their owner;CHAP. II. MPONGWE COSTUME. 9and on the coast it is not uncommon to see them adorned withlooking-glasses, chairs, tables, sofas, and very often a Yankee clock.There is a great contrast between such neat dwellings and thelow, circular, dark, and dirty hovels of the negroes between theNiger and Senegambia, with their rude high-peaked roofs andclay walls.They are the best-looking people I have seen, looking verymuch like the Mandigoes; of ordinary size and with pleasantnegro features, but handsomer than the Congo tribes. The menwear a shirt, generally of English, French, or American calico,over which is wrapped a square cloth, which falls to the ankles.To this is added a straw hat for the head. Only the king isallowed to wear the silk hat, of American or European manufacture. The wealthier men and chiefs, however, are fond ofdress, and, when they can afford it, delight to show themselvesin a bright military costume, sword and all.The chief, and, in most cases, only garment of the women is asquare cloth, which is wrapped about the body, and covers themfrom above the hips to just below the knees. On their bare legsand arms they delight to wear great numbers of brass rings,often bearing from twenty-five to thirty pounds of brass on eachankle in this way. This ridiculous vanity greatly obstructs theirlocomotion, and makes their walk a clumsy waddle.Both sexes are extremely fond of ornaments and of perfumery,with which they plentifully besprinkle themselves, with littleregard to kind.The most characteristic point about the Mpongwe-indeed ofall the negro tribes I have seen-is their great eagerness andlove for trade. My friends the Mpongwe live by trade. Theirposition at and near the mouth of the Gaboon gives them suchfacilities and such a command of the interior as they know buttoo well how to use and misuse to their own advantage.Let me here give the reader an idea of African commerce.The rivers, which are the only highways of the country, are, ofcourse, the avenues by which every species of export and importmust be conveyed from and to the interior tribes . Now theriver-banks are possessed by different tribes. Thus, while theMpongwe hold the mouth and some miles above, they are succeeded by the Shekiani, and these again by other tribes, to thenumber of almost a dozen, before the Sierra del Crystal mountains10 TRADE MONOPOLIES. CHAP. II.are reached. Each of these tribes assumes to itself the privilegeof acting as go-between or middle-man to those next to it, andcharges a heavy percentage for this office; and no infraction ofthis rule is permitted under penalty of war. Thus a piece ofivory or ebony may belong originally to a negro in the farinterior, and if he wants to barter it for " white man's trade,"he dares not take it to a market himself. If he should be rashenough to attempt such a piece of enterprise his goods would beconfiscated, and he, if caught, fined by those whose monopoly hesought to break down, or most likely sold into slavery.He is obliged by the laws of trade to intrust it to some fellowin the next tribe nearer to the coast. He, in turn, disposes ofit to the next chief or friend, and so ivory, or ebony, or bar-wood,passes through probably a dozen hands ere it reaches the factoryof the trader on the coast.This would seem to work against the white trader by increasing the price of products. But this is only half the evil .Although the producer sold his ivory, and though it was resolda dozen times, all this trade was only a commission businesswith no advances. In fact, the first holder has trusted eachsuccessive dispenser with his property without any equivalent or"collateral " security. Now, when the last black fellow disposesof this piece of ebony or ivory to the white merchant or captain,he retains, in the first place, a very liberal percentage of thereturns for his valuable services, and turns the remainder overto his next neighbour above. He, in turn, takes out a commission for his trouble and passes on what is left; and so, finally,a very small remainder-too often nothing at all-is handedover to the poor fellow who has inaugurated the speculation orsent the tusk.Anyone can see the iniquity of this system, and the fatal clogit throws on all attempts at the building up of a legitimatecommerce in a country so rich in many products now almostindispensable to civilized nations. The poor interior tribes arekept by their neighbours in the profoundest ignorance of whatis done on the coast. They are made to believe the most absurdand horrid stories as to the ferocity, the duplicity, and thecunning of the white traders. They are persuaded that therascally middle- men are not only in constant danger of theirlives by their intercourse with the whites, but that they do notCHAP. II. HONESTY IS THE WORST POLICY.11make any profit on the goods which they good- naturedly passon to a market; so that I have known one of these scoundrels,after having appropriated a large share of the poor remainderof returns for a venture of ivory, actually, by a pitiful story,beg a portion of what he had handed over to his unsuspiciousclient. Each tribe cheats its next neighbour above, and malignsits next neighbour below. A talent for slandering is, of course,a first-rate business talent; and the harder stories one can tellof his neighbours below the greater profit he will make on hisneighbour above.The consequence is that the interior tribes-who own the mostproductive country-have little or no incentive to trade, or togather together the stores of ivory, bar-wood, ebony, &c. , forwhich they get such small prices, and these at no certain intervals, but often after long periods, even years elapsing sometimes before a final settlement is found convenient. Thus theyare discouraged, and perforce remain in their original barbarismand inactivity.The trade in slaves is carried on in exactly the same way,except that sometimes an infraction of trade-laws, or some disturbance on account of witchcraft, causes a war between twotribes in the commission business, when, of course, each sidetakes all it can of the opposite and ships them direct to thecoast-to the barracoons or slave-depôts, of which I shall havesomething more detailed to say farther on.There are, however, other obstacles to the prosecution of aregular commercial enterprise even by the shrewder among thenegroes. It is not permitted that any member of a tribe shallget into his hands more than his share of the trade. It occurredsome years ago to a shrewd Mpongwe fellow that in trade transactions honesty might be the best policy, and he followed thesuggestion so well that presently both the whites and the interior natives threw a very considerable trade into his honesthands. But no sooner was this observed than he was threatenedwith poisoning, accused of witchcraft, and such a hullaballooraised about his ears that he was forced to refuse the tradeoffered him, and, in a measure, retire from business to save his life.More recently still, there were three or four men in the riverwho had obtained by long good conduct quite a character forhonesty, and also, in consequence, got a good deal of business.12 THE CREDIT SYSTEM. CHAP. II.At last a captain came for a load of bar-wood, and declared thathe would trust only the three or four men in question, to thebitter disappointment of other traders. The vessel was quicklyfilled and departed; and there arose a great " palaver " —theMpongwe cant for a quarrel-in which the kings and chiefs andall the disappointed trading fellows met together at Glass Town-the residence of my honest friends-to advise about such anoutrage. The men were called up for trial. They had beeneducated at the American mission, and knew how to write; andthe charge made against them now was that they had written tothe white man's country to say that there were no good men inGaboon but themselves.To this the accused shrewdly replied that the white menwould not believe men who should thus praise themselves.66 But reply was useless. They were threatened that if theytook the next ship that came, the malcontents would " make aboondgi," or work a spell of witchcraft upon them, and killthem. Fortunately, in this case, the honest fellows had learnedat the mission not to fear such threats; and the French commander for once stepped in and protected them against theirenvious fellows, so that for this time, onthe West Coast of Africa,honesty seems likely to get its reward.""Again, through the anxiety of white traders to secure " trade,there has sprung up along the coast an injurious system of" trust. " A merchant, to secure to himself certain quantities ofproduce yet to come down from the interior, gives to such blackfellows as he thinks he can depend upon advances of tradegoods, often to very considerable amounts. In this way, on theGaboon and on the coast, often many thousand dollars' worth ofgoods are in the hands of natives, for which no consideration hasbeen received by the white trader, who meantime waits, and isput to trouble and expense, and thinks himself lucky if he doesnot eventually lose a part of his investment.This system of " trust," as it is called, does great injury to thenatives, for it tempts them to practise all sorts of cheats, forwhich they are sharp enough-indeed, much too shrewd oftenfor the white man. Of course, his only dependence lies in theknowledge of his black debtor that if he cheats too badly hisfuture supplies will be stopped entirely. But the practicedevelops all kinds of overtrading as well as rascality— negroes1+CHAP. II. A DAY WITH THE TRADERS. 13seldom hesitating to contract to supply much greater quantitiesof produce than they can hope to procure during a season.Even the slave- trade, I found, on my visit to Cape Lopez, isburdened with this evil of " trust," and some of the Portugueseslavers, I was told, get preciously cheated in their advances onshipments of slaves sold " to arrive, " but which do not come tohand.I have heard the negroes called stupid, but my experienceshows them to be anything but that. They are very shrewdtraders indeed; and no captain or merchant who is a new handon the coast will escape being victimized by their cunning indriving a bargain.Say that to-day the good ship Jenny has arrived in the river.Immediately every black fellow is full of trade. The ship isboarded by a crowd of fellows, each jabbering away, apparentlyat random, but all telling the same story.Never was there such dearth of ivory, or whatever the captainmay want!Never were the interior tribes so obstinate in demanding ahigh price!Never was the whole coast so bare!Never were difficulties so great!There have been fights, captain!And fever, captain!And floods, captain!And no trade at all, captain!Not a tooth!This point settled, they produce their " good books," which arecertificates of character, in which some captain or other whitetrader who is known on the coast vouches for the honesty-thegreat honesty and entire trustworthiness-of the bearer. It isnot worth while for a fellow to present himself without a certificate, and the papers are all good, because when "the bearer "has cheated he does not apply for a " character. " Now thesecertificates help him to cheat. When he finds the need of anew set of papers, he conducts himself with scrupulous honestytowards two or three captains. These, of course, " certify" him,and then he goes into the wildest and most reckless speculations,upheld by the " good books," which he shows to every captainthat comes.Now, while they are pretending that nothing is to be bought,14 EVILS OF "TRUST." CHAP. II.that there is no ivory on the coast, all this time the lying rascalshave their hands full, and are eager to sell. They know thecaptain is in a hurry. The coast is sickly. The weather is hot.He fears his crew may fall sick or die, and he be left with abroken voyage. Every day is therefore precious to him; but tothe black fellows all days are alike. They have no storage, nointerest account, no fever to fear, and, accordingly, they can tirethe captain out. This they do. In fact often, if they have anobstinate customer to deal with, they even combine and send allthe trade a day's journey up river, and thus produce a fair showof commercial scarcity. At last, when high prices have beenestablished, when the inroads of fever on his crew or the advanceof the season have made the poor captain desperately willing topay anything, the ivory comes aboard, and the cunning blackfellows chuckle.Even then, however, there are tedious hours of chaffering. Anegro has perhaps only one tooth to sell, and he is willing-ashe must live on this sale for a long period of idleness -to givemuch time to its proper disposal. He makes up his mind beforehand how much more he will ask than he will eventually take.He brings his tooth alongside; spends the afternoon in bargaining, and probably takes it back ashore at dusk, to try again thenext day; till at last, when he sees he cannot possibly get more,he strikes the trade. I have known several days to be spent inthe selling of a single tooth or a single cask of palm-oil.Of course the captain protests that he is not in a hurry—thathe can wait—that they shan't tire him out. But the negroes knowbetter; they know the fatal advantage their climate gives them.When it is supposed that a captain or trader will return to thecoast no more after his present voyage, then he is properly victimized, as then the native has no fear of future vengeance beforehim; and I have known many individuals who, by the system of"trust, ” were all but ruined-getting scarce any return at all.It is much to be wished that white traders would combine toput down at least this abuse. But until the spread of commerceshall break down the scoundrelly system of middle-men in thisland, there will be no really prosperous trade there. And thiswill not happen till the merchants themselves visit the headquarters whence the produce is brought, and until the rude tribesshall be somewhat civilized by lengthened contact with thewhites. At present things are in a state of utter disorganization,CHAP. II. MPONGWE COASTERS. 15and the " trust " abuse seems a real necessity. For so hardlyand often have the interior tribes been cheated of all returnsfor their wares, that now they have come to demand at least partpayment in advance; and, of course, this advance is exacted ofthe white trader on the coast, to lure whom great rumours arespread through the tribes of teeth of a marvellous size lyingready for purchase, &c. Too often, when an advance has beenmade for a specific purchase —of a tooth, say—it is, after all, seizedfor some intermediate party's debt on its way down, and thusthe poor trader is again victimized.So eager are the Mpongwe for trade that they have even setup a regular coasting business. Every considerable negro traderowns several canoes; but his great ambition is to buy or build alarger vessel, in which he may sail along the coast, and, gettinggoods on trust from white merchants, make his regular voyage,or establish his little factory on some out-of-the-way point on theshore. The splendid harbour of the Gaboon has made themtolerably fearless on the water, and their rage for trade leads.them to all manner of adventures.Their coasting-vessels are only large boats, but I have seensome of so considerable size as to hold conveniently eight to ten ,tons. To make one of these they cut down an immense tree,sharpen it at the ends, then burn out the interior, guiding thefire so as to burn the heart of the tree and leave them the shellthey need. For this hull, which is then scraped smooth, andotherwise finished and strengthened, they next make masts andsails, the latter being of matting, and then they are ready forsea. These co*ckle-shells stand the wind and sea remarkablywell, as is evident when the squally and blustery weather of thiscountry is considered, and when we knowthat they make voyagesfrom the Gaboon as far as Cape St. Catherine's south, and as faras Banoko and Cameroon north.The start for one of these voyages is a great occasion. Gunsare fired, and the people shout and wish a pleasant voyage; andthe lucky vessel is received at her port of destination with similarceremonies.Thegreat aim of a Mpongwe trader, however, is to get "trust "from a white man, with authority to go off up or down the coastand establish a factory. Then there is double rejoicing. Butthe poor white trader is generally sadly victimised; for his agentgoes to some spot where he thinks he can get ivory and other16 MPONGWE FACTORIES. CHAP. II.trade and settles down. Then, first, he mostly picks out thebest and most valuable of the goods with which he has been intrusted, and secretes these for his own use. His next step is tobuy himself some slaves and to marry several wives; all whichbeing accomplished, it is at last time to think of the interests ofhis principal. Thus, after many months, perhaps he makesreturns of his sales, or perhaps he fails altogether to makereturns, if he thinks he can cheat so far with impunity.These fellows understand all the dialects spoken on the coast,as well as English, French, Spanish, and Portuguese. On theirvoyages, as they go poorly provisioned, and depend more on luckthan real skill, they often suffer extreme hardships, but they areseldom drowned.The chief product of the Gaboon country is its ivory. This issaid to be the finest on the western coast. It produces alsobar-wood, a dye-wood, from which is obtained a dark red dye,and ebony, the last taken from the great forests of this woodwhich abound near the head-waters of the Gaboon River. Ihave seen very large sticks brought thence, but the supply is notyet large. The bar-wood tree is found in great plenty along theshores of the river and its numerous tributary creeks. It is alsofound on the Moondah and Danger rivers. Copal is anotherproduct of this country, but it is of inferior quality, and is notsought.Ivory comes down the river from the interior by inland journeys in great quantities. Upwards of 80,000 pounds are takenfrom the Gaboon River yearly when home prices are good; forthe ruling prices here are so high that traders cannot buy to advantage unless the home demand is very brisk. I suppose thatthe country from Banoko to Loango furnishes in brisk years atleast 150,000 pounds of ivory.But however important may be these commercial resources ofthe Gaboon country, I am convinced that the people will neverprosper till they turn their attention more to agricultural operations, for elephants must finally disappear. This, indeed, is thegreat evil of all the nations of Western Africa. The men despiselabour, and force their women and slaves to till the fields; andthis tillage never assumes the important proportions it deserves,so that the supply of food is never abundant; the tribes, almostwithout exception, live from hand to mouth, and, with a fertilesoil, are half the time in a state of semi-starvation.CHAP. III. DECREASE OF THE MPONGWE. 17CHAPTER III.Some Causes of the Decrease of the Mpongwe - Restrictions as to Intermarriage Last Days of King Glass -Public Opinion on the Gaboon - Mourning for a King - " Making " a new King- Character of the MpongweAn African Gentleman - Food - Agriculture.To return to the Mpongwe, who, as the leading tribe on theGaboon, deserve a few words more. I have said before thatthis, in common with most of the tribes, is slowly decreasing innumbers. Polygamy and the numerous murders, or accusationsfor witchcraft, do more to cause this decrease than aught elsevisible; much more than fevers and irregular habits.The Coast tribe is much divided into classes, whose distinctionis kept up chiefly by the restraints in intermarriage. OfMpongwe of pure blood there are at present not more thanthree hundred. Next to these in rank come the descendants ofMpongwe fathers by Mbenga, Shekiani, or Bakalai women;these amount to about 800. Next come the children of Mpongwe men by their slave women. These are called bambai; and,though they enjoy little less consideration than the purer blood,are not permitted to marry with that privileged class. Thesemay number 1000. Then come the children of slaves, who forma great proportion of the population, numbering not less than1000; and, finally, the lowest of all, the slaves, who number, Isuppose, three or four thousand.They live chiefly on the right side of the Gaboon River, havingtheir villages, called Kringé, Qua-ben, Louis, or Dowé Glass,Prince Glass, and two more, on Point Obendo and Parrot Island.On the left side are the villages of Roi Dennis, otherwise calledKing William, King George, and King Lucan. These dignitariesare petty chiefs, who govern after a fashion, and with considerablelimitations, the towns named after them. The whole tribe seemsto be ruled by four of the principal kings; but when disputesarise, which is constantly, there must be a palaver in the village,in which the old men join and advise. King Qua-ben is held tobe the father of the Agueguéza, to which family King Glass alsoC18 AN AFRICAN TYRANT. CHAP. III.belongs. The Point Obendo villages belong to the Ogongofamily. King William (or Rompochembo) belongs to theAshiga family, and is the most intelligent of all the kings.While I was in the Gaboon old King Glass died. He hadlong been ailing, but stuck to life with a determined tenacitywhich almost bade fair to cheat death. He was a disagreeableold heathen, but in his last days became very devout—after hisfashion. His idol was always freshly painted and brightly decorated; his fetich was the best- cared-for fetich in Africa; andevery few days some great doctor was brought down from theinterior, and paid a large fee for advising the old king. He wasafraid of witchcraft-thought everybody wanted to put him outof the way by bewitching him; and in this country your doctordoes not try to cure your sickness; his business is to keep offthe witches.The tribe had grown tired of their king. They thought, indeed,that he was himself a most potent and evil- disposed wizard, and,though the matter was not openly talked about, there were fewnatives who would pass his house after night, and none whowould be tempted inside by any slighter provocation than anirresistible jug of rum. Indeed, if he had not belonged to oneof the most noble families of the Mpongwe tribe, I think hewould perhaps have been killed, so rife was suspicion againsthim.When he became ill at last everybody seemed very sorry; butseveral of my friends told me in confidence that the whole townhoped he would die; and die he did. I was awakened onemorning early by the mournful cries and wails with which theAfrican oftener assumes a sham sorrow than eases a real grief.All the town seemed lost in tears. It is a most singular thingto see the faculty the women of Africa have for pumping uptears on the slightest occasion, or on no occasion at all. Thereneeds no grief or pain to draw the water. I have seen themshed tears copiously, and laughing all the while.The mourning and wailing lasted six days. On the second theold king was secretly buried. The Mpongwe kings are alwaysburied by a few of the most trustworthy men of the tribe in aspot which they only know of, and which is for ever hidden fromall others. This custom arises from a vain belief of the Mpongwethat, as they are the most able and intelligent people of Africa,CHAP. III . MAKING A KING. 19the other tribes would like much to get the head of one of theirkings, with the brains of which to make a powerful fetich.Such an advantage they are not willing to give to their neighbours. Now, as it is customary to hang a flag or a piece ofcloth where a Mpongwe is buried, these old men hung also alarge piece of bright cloth over a spot where the king was notlaid. Where he was put I cannot tell, because the secret wasnot told even to me.During the days of mourning the old men of the village busiedthemselves in choosing a new king. This also is a secret operation, The choice is made in private, and communicated to thepopulace only on the seventh day, when the new king is to becrowned. But the king is kept ignorant of his good fortune tothe last.It happened that Njogoni, a good friend of my own, was elected.The choice fell on him, in part because he came of a good family,but chiefly because he was a favourite of the people and could getthe most votes. I do not know that Njogoni had the slightestsuspicion of his elevation. At any rate, if he had, he shammedignorance very well. As he was walking on the shore, on themorning of the seventh day, he was suddenly set upon by theentire populace, who proceeded to a ceremony which is preliminary to the crowning, and which must deter any but the mostambitious men from aspiring to the crown. They surroundedhim in a dense crowd, and then began to heap upon him everymanner of abuse that the worst of mobs could imagine. Somespit in his face; some beat him with their fists; some kickedhim; others threw disgusting objects at him; while those unlucky ones who stood on the outside, and could reach the poorfellow only with their voices, assiduously cursed him, his father,his mother, his sisters and brothers, and all his ancestors to theremotest generation. A stranger would not have given a centfor the life of him who was presently to be crowned.Amid all the noise and struggle, I caught the words whichexplained all this to me; for every few minutes some fellow,administering an especially severe blow or kick, would shoutout, " You are not our king yet; for a little while we will dowhat we please with you. By-and-by we shall have to do yourwill. "Njogoni bore himself like a man and a prospective king. Hec 220 A ROYAL RECEPTION. CHAP. III .kept his temper, and took all the abuse with a smiling face.When it had lasted about half an hour, they took him to thehouse of the old king. Here he was seated, and became againfor a little while the victim of his people's curses.Then all became silent; and the elders of the people rose andsaid, solemnly (the people repeating after them), " Nowwe chooseyou for our king; we engage to listen to you and to obey you. "A silence followed, and presently the silk hat, which is theemblem of Mpongwe royalty, was brought in and placed onNjogoni's head. He was then dressed in a red gown, and received the greatest marks of respect from all who had just nowabused him.Now followed a six days' festival, during which the poor king,who had taken with the office also the name of his predecessor,was obliged to receive his subjects in his own house, and was notallowed to stir out; six days of indescribable gorging of foodand bad rum-of beastly drunkenness and uproarious festivity.Numbers of strangers came in from surrounding villages to paytheir respects; and all brought more rum, more palm-wine, andmore food. Everything that tended toward festivity was givenaway, and all who came were welcome.Old King Glass, for whom for six days no end of tears hadbeen shed, was now forgotten; and new King Glass, poor fellow,was sick with exhaustion, for day and night he had to be readyto receive and be civil to all who came.Finally, all the rum was drunk up, the allotted days wereexpired, and quiet once more began to reign. Now, for the firsttime, his new majesty was permitted to walk out and view hisdomains.Bylong intercourse with traders, and the commercial necessityfor mild manners, the coast Mpongwe have, as a people, acquireda polish and politeness of address which astonishes strangersvery greatly. They know perfectly how to make themselves athome with all the whites they meet, and understand how to flatterthe peculiarities of the different nationalities, the American,English, French, and Spanish, in a very amusing and extremelyshrewd way. In fact, they are a mercantile people, and recogniseoutward politeness as a valuable commercial quality; but, withall their smoothness, they are inwardly great rascals and keendissimulators.CHAP. III . AN AFRICAN GENTLEMAN. 21It is to be hoped that the efforts of the missionaries will havesome effect upon the rising generation, among whom chieflythey must expect to labour; for of the grown negro, in whomthe love of idleness and chicanery are already habits, it is nextto impossible to make anything.But it would be wrong to condemn the whole people. Asfuture pages will show, I met everywhere in my travels men andwomen honest, well-meaning, and in every way entitled to respect and trust; and the very fact that a white man could travelalone, single-handed, and without powerful backers, through thisrude country without being molested or robbed, is sufficient evidence that the negro race is not unkindly natured.One of the chief men of Glass Town, a man whom I knewand loved, was a remarkable exception to the general dishonestyof the coast Mpongwe. This man was respected and trusted byall the traders of the various nations who came to the Gaboon,and enjoyed as well the esteem of his countrymen and of thewhites. Though not a professing Christian, his long intercoursewith the missionaries had opened his eyes to the deceits andcruelties of fetichism. He adhered to polygamy, probably because he saw no way to rid himself of his numerous family. Buthe was really, in manners and conduct, a black gentleman;genial, affable, polite, kind, and benevolent. No stranger orpoor person ever passed his bamboo house without help fromhim. No one asked in vain for a share of his means or his influence. As a trader, every white man liked him; and he wasnever known to " make palaver," as is too much the customamong his fellows. He died when I was in the Commi country;and, as an extraordinary proof of his benevolence and enlightenment, with his last words he forbade strictly that any of hisslaves should be killed over his grave: unlike one of his fellowchiefs, Toko, who, dying but a little while before, had a greatnumber of poor wretches tortured and killed at his funeral.Poor Will Glass! He lies in the mission burying-ground,near the men whom he loved in life, and who had before himfallen victims to their zeal for Christ and their love for theirfellow-men.I sat one day in Will Glass's house, when he began to speakof his friends, missionaries who had returned home, and whoseabsence he grieved over. Especially he seemed to feel the loss22 FOOD -PLANTATIONS. CHAP. III.of the Rev. J. Leighton Wilson, our common friend, and now theSecretary of the Presbyterian Board of Foreign Missions. Mr.Wilson's memory is still cherished among the people of theGaboon; and Will Glass told me how the natives in crowdsescorted Mr. and Mrs. Wilson to the boat when they were aboutto leave the coast. Little did I think we should never see himagain," said he; then, after a pause, he added, " I shall neversee him again.'66And looking up, I saw two great tears rolling down thewrinkled cheeks of this old black man, who had probably knownno tears for many years before. Such is the affection whichthat missionary and others inspired in the breasts of natives whoare not even their converts.The vegetable food of the Mpongwe, and with little variationof most of the other tribes of this region near the seashore,consists of Indian corn, the plantain, yams, sweet potatoes,cassava (manioc), tania, pumpkins, and ground or pea nuts.The last produce enormously, and considerable oil could bemade if any one would give attention to their cultivation for thispurpose. The forests abound in wild fruits and nuts, some ofwhich are eaten; for instance, the pine-apple grows wild in allparts of this region, and is a delicious fruit.Their plantations are never near their villages, and often manymiles away. The consequence is, that during the dry seasonthe Mpongwe villages are mostly deserted, all hands, men,women, and slaves, being busily engaged on their farms inpreparing the soil for the crop, which must be put down by thebeginning of the rainy season. This is a busy time, as generallynew clearings have to be made, for which the men cut down thetrees and burn them, when the women come in and put inthe crop. They use no ploughs or hoes, but only a little toollike a gardener's dibble, with which they turn up a piece ofsod, put in a seed, cover it over, and pass on to the next.But, rude as their agricultural knowledge is, they sometimesraise good crops.The soil is well fitted for raising many valuable articlesof commerce. Sugarcanes grow luxuriantly on the banksof the Gaboon. Coffee-plants were first introduced by theRev. J. L. Wilson, fifteen years ago, and now bear finely, thoseabout the mission-grounds being particularly loaded with berries.CHAP. III. ANIMAL FOOD. 23And I have no doubt other valuable tropical plants not indigenouswould succeed, if only the labour necessary for proper culturewere attainable.The Mpongwe eat the meat of almost every animal found inthe forest and river-deer, antelopes, wild boar. Civilizationhas taught them not to eat animals of other orders like theother natives, such as chimpanzee, crocodile, monkeys, rats, andso forth; such food is eaten by their slaves. Often, whenhunters succeeded in killing for me a rare and unknown bird, Iwas disappointed of preserving it, because they would slyly eatthe meat and ruin the skin.24 CORISCO THE BEAUTIFUL. CHAP. IV.Corisco the Beautiful—CHAPTER IV.The Mbengas - Missionary Stations -African WakeSet out for the Muni — An Explorer's Outfit - Plan of Operations - PoorDebtor in Africa Lynch Law- My Canoe - The Muni - MangroveSwamps - Lost - King Dayoko Salutations.THE Gaboon, being old and beaten ground, did not need myexplorations. It was useful to me as a starting-place or pointof departure, because here only could I lay in such supplies ofgoods as I needed from time to time in making my way into theinterior; and hither I returned to rest and regain health andstrength after each of my tours. Beyond this we shall havenothing to do with the Gaboon henceforth.It was my intention to proceed first on an exploration of theRiver Muni, and for this purpose I sailed from Gaboon forCorisco Island, where I was to get canoes and men to helpme at least a part of the way up river. Corisco-the picturesqueCorisco it deserves to be called-is an island situated in thebay of the same name, and at about twelve miles from the mainland of Cape St. John, between that and Cape Steiras. It is atolerably high and well-wooded island, and its shores are linedchiefly with cocoanut-palms, the produce of some cocoanutsfloated hither from the isles of Prince's and St. Thomas, wherethey are very plentiful, whereas here the cocoanut is scarce known.Though but a small island, Corisco has its hills and valleys,forests and prairies, and has even a little lake or pond, whereducks often come to bathe and fish. It seems a little world, anda very lovely little world. The shores are sometimes rockyand steep, presenting a firm front to the waves which rage anddash against its sides; and then again flat and sandy, formingbeautiful white shell-strewn beaches backed by lovely palms,among which the little native villages are clustered, with theirplantations of plantain, manioc, peanuts, and corn showingthrough the palm-groves.The villages are scattered all along the shore, so that,CHAP. IV. THE MBENGA. 25whichever side you sail past, you see the smoke pleasantlycurling above the tree-tops. Great quantities of beautiful shellsare found on the shores, and among the rocks at low tide seabirds also abound, and on almost any steep rock overhanging thewater the hunter may see fish-hawks and eagles patiently sittingand watching for their finny prey below. Great quantities offish are caught by the natives, and at certain seasons turtlefrequent the shores, and are " turned " in considerable numbers.The interior forests abound in parrots and smaller birds.The climate of the island is healthier than that of theneighbouring coast. Water is scarce at certain seasons, thoughthere are a few springs and little rivulets of pure water in thecentre of the island which never run dry. The soil produces,besides cocoanuts, manioc, plantain, sweet potatoes, yams, andground-nuts; limes are also abundant. Manioc is, however, thechief food of the people. Palm-oil trees grow abundantly, butnot much palm-oil is made, and the natives consume all theisland produces. But the palm adds another grace to a landscapeof which my eyes never tired, and the bright-feathered parrotsand other beautiful birds, and squirrels who constantly run aboutthis palm and feed on its bunches of yellow nuts, make the treea favourite with lovers of nature.The island is not more than twelve miles in circumference.Its population, of about 1000 souls, is scattered all over theisland. They are a quiet, peaceable people, hospitable tostrangers and fond of white men, particularly of the missionarieswho have settled among them. They belong to the Mbengatribe, who are the most enterprising traders and the most daringboatmen of the coast. They were formerly the most warliketribe of this part of the country, and, when I first came on thecoast, were continually fighting with their neighbours. Aboutten years ago the Presbyterian Board of Missions sent out somemissionaries, and the labours of these worthy gentlemen havealmost entirely changed the character of the Mbenga. Theyare no longer so quarrelsome, and have lost that reputation forferocity on which they formerly prided themselves.This tribe inhabits not only Corisco, but also the land about theneighbouring Capes Steiras and St. John. Their language differssomewhat from the Bakalai, but has, like that, no letter R, whilethe Mpongwe and its dialects abound in the use of this letter.26 MISSIONARY LABOURS. CHAP. IV.Corisco has no cattle nor wild beasts, the only quadrupedsfound being three varieties of squirrels. Snakes, however, arecommon, particularly a venomous black snake. The island produces little that can be traded away except vegetables. Themeat of the inhabitants consists of fish and turtle. The energiesof the Mbenga, finding no field in their little island, carry themto the main land, where they are in great repute as traders. Intheir canoes they sail up the Muni and Moondah rivers, and asfar as Banoko, and many of them are regularly employed by thewhite merchants to do their trading.There are three missionary stations on the island, Evangasimba, Ngobi, and Olongo. There is a school at each station,and when I was last there these schools were attended duringthe week by about 100 scholars, and on Sunday by about 125.Many of the children are growing up in Christian habits of life,and it is not too much to hope that the next generation will livea different life from this poor heathen and ignorant existence oftheir fathers. There are about 75 church members.The missionaries have scholars in the schools from tribes onthe main land, and these they hope to send out by-and-by totell the glad tidings of salvation, each to his own people.But much remains to be done. It is almost impossible torout superstitious customs out of the hearts of those who havegrown old in their practice. Upon such the missionaries canhave but little influence. They say " Yes, yes," but they goahead in their old ways. They respect and love the missionaries;they see the absurdity of their fetich worship; they are convinced of the wickedness of slave-killing and other cruelties;and then at the first excitement they sink back supinely intoevery superstitious or cruel custom. It is to the rising generation that the good missionaries have to look for the full rewardof their faithful labours.A few days before I left the island, Tonda, a Mbenga fellowwho had travelled with me on the Muni, died, and at his funeralI was witness to a singular ceremony, akin to the "waking " ofthe body.The mother of poor Tonda, who heard that I wished to seehim once more, led me to the house where the body was laid.The narrow space of the room was crowded; about two hundredwomen were sitting and standing around, singing mourningCHAP. IV. A MBENGA FUNERAL. 27songs to doleful and monotonous airs. They were so huddledtogether that for a while I could not distinguish the place of thecorpse. At last some moved aside, and behold! the body of myfriend.It was seated in a chair.It was dressed in a black tail-coat and a pair of pantaloons.It had several strings of beads about the neck.Altogether, it was a ghastly sight, though the pallid face ofdeath cannot be seen in the negro.As I stood looking, filled with solemn thoughts, in spite of, orrather because of, perhaps, the somewhat ludicrous contrastsabout me, the mother of Tonda approached.She threw herself at the feet of her dead son, and begged himto speak to her once more.And then, when the poor corpse did not answer, she uttered ashriek, so long, so piercing, such a wail of love and grief, thatthe tears came into my eyes. Poor African mother! she wasliterally as one sorrowing without hope; for these poor peoplecount on nothing beyond the present life. For them there isno hope beyond the grave. " All is done," they say, with aninexpressible sadness of conviction that sometimes gave me aheartache. Truly, it is worth while to bear words of comfort andpromise to such as these.As I left the hut, thinking these things, the wailing recommenced. It would be kept up by the women, who are the officialmourners on these occasions, till the corpse was buried. Thenthe family and friends would lay aside their ornaments for manymonths, would refrain from dancing and all manner of merrymaking, till at last all is forgotten again.At the funeral the friends of poor Tonda wished to bury withhim a quantity of goods; but as the poor fellow was being buriedaccording to the Christian manner, the Rev. Mr. Mackey properlyobjected. The good missionary preached words of hope to themany hundreds standing about the grave, and perhaps the poorlone grieving mother found some comfort in her heart when shewent away. I was glad to hope so at any rate.The Bay of Corisco, across whose mouth lies the island of thesame name, is one of the loveliest bays on the whole African coast.It would be also one of the finest for mercantile purposes, wereit not for its numerous shallows. It is about twelve miles deep,28 UP THE MUNI. CHAP. IV.by twenty-five miles across at the mouth, and contains severallesser islands and some sandy islets, which afford shelter for seabirds, and are famous places for picking up fine sea-shells. Therivers Muni and Moondah empty their waters into the bay; andon a clear day one can see from the hill-tops of Corisco the distanthighlands of the interior mainland, and the high mountains yetfarther back in which the Muni has its source.This bay was formerly much frequented in the season (Julyand August) by whales, who came here to drop their young;but the whale-ships have pursued them so regularly that nowthey are very shy, and no longer come in such quantities asformerly. I have known a vessel to get in two months sixteenor eighteen whales.At Corisco I enjoyed the hospitality of the missionaries, andtake this occasion to offer my grateful acknowledgments to theRev. Messrs. James Mackey and Clemens for many kind attentions received from them.It was here that I made preparations for a long journey, inwhich I intended to explore the Muni to its head-waters; tocross, if possible, the Sierra del Crystal, and see what kind ofcountry and what manner of people were to be found there. Iwanted particularly to visit the cannibal tribes in the Sierra, andto ascertain if the Congo, which had been supposed to flow northward back of these mountains, was there to be found.My voyage was to be made alone, so far as white companionswere concerned. Mbango, a chief or head-man among the Coriscopeople, was engaged to accompany me, to introduce me to afriend of his, an influential king on the Muni.We set out in Mbango's canoe on the 27th of July. Thecanoe was hewn out of a single tree, and, though narrow, wascommodious and safe enough for so rough a journey.My crew consisted of twelve black fellows, besides Mbango,all armed with guns. I foresaw that, from the dread all thecoast natives have of the cannibal tribes, I should have difficultyin carrying all my baggage. I therefore determined not toencumber myself with supplies of provisions or anything elsethat could be spared. My outfit consisted only of the followingarticles:-A chest containing 100 fathoms of prints, 19 poundsof white beads, a quantity of small looking-glasses, fire-steelsand flints, a quantity of leaf tobacco. In addition to which cameCHAP. IV. NEW WAY TO COLLECT A DEBT. 29my greatest dependence, viz. , 80 pounds of shot and bullets, 25pounds of powder, and my guns.The day on which we sailed was beautiful. There was a finebreeze, and we passed in rapid succession the islets which dotthe Bay of Corisco, Leval, Banian, and Big and Little Alobi.We were making fine progress, and I was in high spirits at theauspicious commencement of my trip, when one of those peculiardetentions occurred which arise out of the ill-regulated tradesystem of Africa, and which would be laughable were they notvexatious.Mbango was a great trading man. Therefore Mbango haddebts owing him. Now Mbango's debtors, like most debtors onthe African coast, were not fond of paying, and I found thatMbango made a practice of lying in wait for them, seizing them,and robbing them of what they happened to have with them, asa kind of new way to pay old debts.Accordingly, as we were sailing along, my steersman kept anunusually sharp look- out ahead. His care was presently rewarded. We saw a large boat sailing along down toward uscarelessly, as though they had no enemies to dread. No sooner,however, were the boatmen near enough to recognize us than,with a little shout of surprise, they put about and sailed andpaddled off in the utmost haste.But Mbango also gave a little shout. He recognized in thesame moment in the other boat a veteran poor debtor of his.Turning our boat after the other, he urged his men to paddle,and mean time shouted to the others to stop.But the more he called " Stop! " the harder they paddled off.Now our side became excited. Mbango called that he wouldfire upon them.This only frightened them more.Our men seized their guns, and (slyly shaking the powder outof the touchholes, I must say to their credit) pointed directly atthe flying boat.Now the women even seized paddles and plied them vigorously.Then our side fired a few random shots over the heads of theflying debtors. Still they paddled on.By this time, however, it became apparent that our boat wasthe fastest. Presently, indeed, we overtook the other.30 A CHACE AND SCUFFLE. CHAP. IV.I had been sitting quietly watching the fun; but now, as wehauled alongside the enemy's boat, and I saw a good deal offierce blood up on both sides, I began to remonstrate. I did notwish to see blood spilt, nor did I care to be upset in the scuffle;but my voice was drowned in the uproar. A desperate hand-tohand fight began at once as we ranged alongside. How weescaped upsetting I do not yet understand, but I suppose thesefellows instinctively poise themselves aright. I was wet through;the canoe took in water, and murder was imminent, when suddenly the other canoe again gave us the slip .Nowthe chace began again. Again we shouted, and the otherside paddled as for dear life; but it was of no avail. Presentlywe again hauled alongside, and this time we made fast. Thencame another fight, in the midst of which the boatmen, seeingthey were about to be overpowered, suddenly leaped into thewater and swam off. Though we were some miles from shore,they had no uneasiness as to the result. Mbango caught two ofthem, and took, besides, a woman prisoner; then coolly turnedon his course again, saying to me with a smile that he had donea very good day's work. He explained that these people hadlong owed him a quantity of bar-wood, for which he had paid inadvance, and, now that he had some of the party prisoners, theywould soon settle up.About a mile from the mouth of the Muni are Big and LittleAlobi, two small islets . The first has a few native villages, ruledby King Mpapay, who this day presented me with a chickenand a bunch of plantains, on which I made my dinner. Inreturn I gave his negro majesty some heads of tobacco.Little Alobi is uninhabited, and is used by the whites as adépôt for bar-wood, for which it is convenient, as vessels cananchor close alongside the shore.Here we remained over night, I sleeping ashore, while Mbango'sfavourite slave man kept watch over the boat, Mbango threatening to "sell him to the white man's country" if anything wasstolen.Next day I had a chill, and laid over, not caring to enter theMuni but in perfect health. I took the usual doses of quinine.The following morning several Muni River men came downto see me, having heard that I was about to go up the river;and in the afternoon we sailed with a favourite tide for theCHAP. IV. TRIBUTARIES OF THE MUNI. 31village of Mbango's friend, Dayoko, We had a fair wind, andthe boat fellows availed themselves of it to lie about and donothing, which they perfectly know how to do. These canoesdo not sail on the wind at all; but before it, with their sails ofcountry matting, they make very good headway.Yesterday I measured our canoe. She is thirty-five feet long,three feet wide, and about three and a half feet deep; made, asbefore said, out of one immense tree. The Muni, the river whichI was now to ascend, empties its waters into the Bay of Corisco,in lat 1° 2′ N., and long. 9° 33′. It is formed by the confluenceof three other streams, the Ntongo, a stream of forty miles' length,whose course is S.W. by W.; the Ntambounay, which runs aneasterly course for thirty miles, and then turns to the south-westfor forty miles more, when it disappears in the mountains; andthe Noya, which runs from its rise sixty miles to the north- east,and then west for twenty miles more. The Ntambounay and theNoya have both their sources in the Sierra del Crystal. Theirbanks are sparsely populated by various tribes, speaking differentdialects. The Muni is, like most of the rivers of the coast,bounded by mangrove swamps; but near the mouth, where wesailed to-day, the highlands were visible in the background,and made up a picturesque scene. The point forming one sideof the bank at the mouth is high land, and on it severalShekiani villages are located, which look very pretty from theriver.As we ascended the river the banks became more swampy;and, at the distance of seventeen miles from the mouth, we cameto a beautiful little island, formed by the junction of the Ntongowith the Muni.The Ntongo flows from the north- east; is a considerable stream,on or near whose banks are formed villages of the Ibouay,Itaimon, and Shekiani tribes. It has probably a course orlength of forty miles, and rises in the hills which form, in theinterior, one of the spurs of the Sierra del Crystal. The chiefproduct of the Ntongo country is India-rubber, of which, someyears ago, considerable quantities were brought down to thecoast by the natives.Some miles above the mouth of the Ntongo, the Ndina, acreek, empties its sluggish waters into the Muni. The Ndina isbut a swampy creek, overrun with mangrove jungles, back of32 LOST IN THE SWAMP. CHAP. IV.which are to be found some villages, to which the well-guidedtraveller is led by native paths, which no one but an experiencedwoodman would perceive. It was the Ndina which we were nowto ascend. As the tide was against us, and was stronger thanthe wind, we put down our sail, which had carried us along thusfar, and the crew took to their paddles.When we had pulled about twelve miles up the creek, througha continuous mangrove swamp, in which the sluggish current ofthe river often lost itself, I saw that my men began to lookuneasy. Presently it leaked out that they had lost their reckoning. They had thought ere now to have arrived at Dayoko'svillage—our destination -and began to be discouraged.So here was a pleasant prospect of passing the night in theswamp, where we were like to be eaten up by musquitoes, whosebuzz was already noisy, and whose sharp bills began to makethemselves felt thus early in the afternoon.In the midst of our perplexity a Mbenga boat came down thestream, and, on inquiry, its crew told us that Dayoko's villagewas yet a considerable way off. They gave us, however, the rightdirection- -an important matter, as in the approaching gloom wewere like to glide out of the main channel into some of thenumerous side " reaches," or bayous, which lead in from themain stream. Thus encouraged the men again took to theirpaddles, and, to show their joy, began to sing one of their discordant chants, rendered doubly discordant by the echoes of thewoods.Presently we came to a very small collection of huts; andhere I asked a fellow standing on the bank to guide us up toDayoko's. He was ready to do so, but seeing probably that Iwas anxious to get ahead, thought to make a good bargain withme. He wanted two fathoms of cloth, two heads of tobacco, andtwo pipes. This was unreasonable, and I at once refused tohave anything to do with him.Nothing gives these people so poor an opinion of a white manas the discovery that they can victimize him in a bargain; andaccordingly I was always careful to let no one get the better ofme even in trifles. Fortunately the moon presently rose, andwe were enabled to thread our way up the crooked creek, andfound by-and-by the mouth of a smaller creek, at whose headDayoko lives.CHAP. IV.DAYOKO'S RECEPTION. 33About ten o'clock we arrived at the village, having travelledthat day about forty-five miles.When we arrived the tide was out, and I had, in consequence,to wade through the stinking mud- bank which lay before and,to some extent, defended the village. All along the shores ofthe Ndina are composed of such mud-banks, which at low tideare dry, and emit a most offensive smell, and doubtless causemuch sickness.The noise of our approach awakened the whole village, andthe men came down towards us, with their old trade musketsloaded, and ready for a fight should it prove, as often happens,a midnight raid of the enemy. These people have the luck ofCain; every man's hand seems against them, and their hand isagainst every man. They are constantly quarrelling, and scarceever sleep without fear of a hostile incursion. The treacherousenemy comes down upon a sleeping village, and shoots the unsuspecting inhabitants through the chinks in their bamboo houses,then escapes under cover of the darkness. This is the style ofwarfare all over this part of Central Africa, except, perhaps,among some of the Coast tribes, who have gained, in manlinessat least, by contact with the whites.They were greatly rejoiced when they found us to be theirfriends the Mbenga. Visions of " trade " began to loom beforethem; they opened their arms, set up a shout of gladness, andimmediately conducted us in state through the village to thehouse generally set apart in every considerable negro town forstrangers.Here a great fire was kindled, and presently Dayoko himselfcame in, his eyes not half opened, for he had but just waked up.Then came all his wives to see the white man, whose presencewas already known, and pretty soon the house was filled andsurrounded by most of the men and women of the village.Then began the " salutation "-a tedious formality among theAfrican tribes which our American people seem to copy in their"public receptions " of distinguished or notorious men. All thechief men of Dayoko, together with himself and his wives, satround the fire, and, when all was hushed, Mbango, our head-man,began his oration. In this it is required that every most minuteadventure and incident of the voyage up river shall be alludedto, and thus a catalogue made of everything that has happenedD34 AN ORATION BEFORE SUPPER. CHAP. IV."from port to port. " The speaker delivers himself in shortsentences, each containing one of the many hundred memorablefacts of the day's journey. All sit round silent and open- mouthed,and at intervals the chief men give little grunts of approbation.At last all was told, and, to my great satisfaction, Mbango satdown.Immediately all ceremony was dropped; every man carriedoff his friend to have a talk about trade, night seeming no objection, and the women began to prepare some food, of which Istood in much need.About twelve o'clock (midnight) supper was ready, and I satdown before an immense basket of boiled plantains and a fewboiled fish, and made a very hearty meal. This ended, I wasshown to my place in the house assigned me for sleeping,when I was glad enough to wrap myself in my musquito- nettingand sleep till daybreak.CHAP. V. AFRICAN ROYALTY. 35-CHAPTER V.Dayoko African Royalty - Foreign Relations and Diplomacy in the Interior The Value of a WifeTribe A Wizard --―Negotiations - The dry Season - The MboushaA fetich Trial and a Murder - Progress - Excitementof the Shekianis at my supposed Wealth - The Ntambounay - The Sierradel Crystal Lost again - Approaches of interior Village — Agricul- tural Operations - Famine.My first business on the following day was to talk to Dayokoabout my expedition into the interior; in fact, to ask hispermission to go, and to obtain from him an escort.A stranger going into an African village and seeing the chiefor king living in a manner as simple and as needy as any of hissubjects-in fact, in no way conspicuous above the herd ofblacks, and receiving even but little of the respect or precedencewhich is usually accorded to the most shadowy monarchs, wouldlittle expect that such a king possesses great authority in hisown tribe, and wields great influence among his neighbours.Dayoko, for instance, was chiefly remarkable as the oldest livingman in his village. He was a trader like the rest, a beggarlike the rest, and was very glad to accept from me a propitiatoryoffering of an old dress-coat which, having done duty for awhole winter in New York, had been put away, with othercast-off garments, for this very purpose. So far Dayoko, whenplaced in contact with civilization.But Dayoko is the oldest and most influential chief among theMbousha tribe. His age gives him great authority among hisown people, and a judicious culture of the marriage relation hasgiven the shrewd old fox no end of fathers-in-law in every tribewithin a hundred miles. Now, to have a father-in-law in Africa.means to have a friend in need, a man to whom you can confidently send a bit of ivory or bar-wood to sell, and whom youcall on in any emergency where he can help you. In fact, themore wives a man has the more power he gains in this way, andwomen are chiefly valuable because by their means amicableand commercial relations are cultivated and subsist between theD 236 THE MARRIAGE RELATION. CHAP. V.tribes. Dayoko was already an old man. He had begun tomarry when quite young, had married, right and left, all abouthim ever since, and was now related to one or two great menin every tribe which he could by any means reach. Thus hepromised to prove a most useful ally to me.Though Dayoko's palace was no bigger than the hut of any ofhis well-to-do subjects, I found, as was to be expected, that hehad more wives and more slaves than the others. And I found,too, that his voice in the councils was of great weight, and that,in certain cases, he possessed a veto power which rendered himsupreme. I felt, therefore, that if I could gain over the king tomy project I need not care for the people, or even for the chiefswho were his relatives, farther up the river.My first aim was to convince everybody that I did not wantto trade. This, thanks to my previous hunts on other branchesof the Muni, and to my never having traded or shown a desireto make money, was not so difficult to do. I was already knownas a great hunter.Having established this point, I called Dayoko into my houseand gave him the present with which a negotiation is generallyopened. I gave him the coat before mentioned, about twentyyards of cotton cloth, some powder, some looking-glasses for hiswives, and some gun-flints.His majesty accepted graciously all my offering.Then I spoke of going into the Fan country.Dayoko thought my project impossible.I would die on the way, and he should have my death on hissoul—a consideration which seemed to affect him greatly.I should be murdered by the cannibals and eaten.There was war on the river, and the tribes would not let mepass.The country was sick.And so on.Seeing that I exhibited no signs of repentance, the old sinnerturned on a new tack. His country was full of beasts andbirds. Why not hunt here? and he would give me as manymen as I wanted.Finally, I told him, with a great show of firmness, thatwould, if not with his people, then with some one else.go IHereupon he relented, fearing probably that I would leaveCHAP. V. NATIVE CURIOSITY. 37him, and that thus he should not make so much out of me as hecalculated.It is as well to add that I did not let any of his fellows реерinto my chest. They are all greedy, and think that every whiteman is by nature a Croesus, and owner of untold wealth incloth, looking-glasses, gun-flints, powder, and tobacco. Andbesides, their fear of some white man beginning a direct tradewith the interior tribes makes them excessively jealous ofeveryone who attempts to reach the interior. Dayoko's peopledid not cease to warn me that I must carry nothing into theup- country, to all which, of course, I said Yes.It was at last determined that I should go under Dayoko'sprotection. So on the third day after my arrival I sent myMbenga men back, and was now left alone among my newfriends. I am to wait for a party going to Mbene's people,who live farther up river, and in whose charge Dayoko proposesto put me. If they do not come, I shall get an escort of hisMbousha men.Meantime numbers of the neighbouring tribes come daily tosee me. Most of these have never seen a white man before, andare filled with astonishment at my long hair, at my white skin—it is really tanned a very dark brown by this time—and at theclothes I wear. They stand about me in such crowds that oftenI am half suffocated with the stench which their uncleanlybodies give out.While waiting, I amused myself with hunting. The countryabout here affords to the naturalist little but birds; but some ofthese are splendid. To- day (August 16th) I shot a Nectariniasuperba, a bird well named, for its feathers of green and goldand bright pink are a superb sight as it flies about through thedark-green foliage of the woods.I have still to wait for the people Dayoko promises. This willmake some detention, as they are here on agricultural intents,and the men are out all day cutting trees, and the womencleaning the ground; everything is busy bustle. This is the dryseason, and now all planting must be done, for in a few weeksthe rains come on, and then it is too late.The dry season is delightful in Africa. It is the season offlowers,of humming-birds-who flit through bushes at all hours, andcharm one with their meteor-like flight-of everything pleasant.38 A MBOUSHA WIZARD. CHAP. V.These Mbousha people look very much like the Shekianitribe. They have the usual negro features, and are of mediumheight. They are less warlike than the Shekianis, but quite assuperstitious and cruel, as I had occasion to know. I heard oneday, by accident, that a man had been apprehended on a chargeof causing the death of one ofthe chief men of the village. I wentto Dayoko and asked about it. He said yes, the man was to bekilled; that he was a notorious wizard, and had done much harm.So I begged to see this terrible being.` I was taken to a rough hut, within which sat an old, old man,with wool white as snow, wrinkled face, bowed form, and shrunkenlimbs. His hands were tied behind him, and his feet wereplaced in a rude kind of stocks. This was the great wizard.Several lazy negroes stood guard over him, and from time totime insulted him with opprobious epithets and blows, to whichthe poor old wretch submitted in silence. He was evidently inhis dotage.I asked him if he had no friends, no relations, no son, or daughter, or wife to take care of him. He said sadly, " No one."Now, here was the secret of this persecution. They were tiredof taking care of the helpless old man, who had lived too long,and a charge of witchcraft by the greegree man was a convenientpretext for putting him out of the way. I saw at once that itwould be vain to try to save him.I went, however, to Dayoko, and argued the case with him. Itried to explain the absurdity of charging a harmless old manwith supernatural powers; told him that God did not permitwitches to exist; and finally made an offer to buy the oldwretch, offering to give some pounds of tobacco, one or twocoats, and some looking-glasses for him-goods which wouldhave bought me an able-bodied slave.Dayoko replied that for his part he would be glad to save him,but that the people must decide; that they were much excitedagainst him; but that he would, to please me, try to save his life.During the night following I heard singing all over the townall night, and a great uproar. Evidently they were preparingthemselves for the murder. Even these savages cannot kill incold blood, but work themselves into a frenzy of excitement first ,and then rush off to do the bloody deed.Early in the morning the people gathered together, with theCHAP. V. AN EXECUTION. 39fetich-man-the infernal rascal who was at the bottom of themurder in their midst. His bloodshot eyes glared in savageexcitement as he went around from man to man getting thevotes to decide whether the old man should die.In his hands he held a bundle of herbs, with which he sprinkledthree times those to whom he spoke. Meantime a man wasstationed on the top of a high tree, whence he shouted fromtime to time, in a loud voice, " Jocoo! Jocoo! " at the same timeshaking the tree strongly.“ Jocoo " is devil among the Mbousha, and the business of thisman was to keep away the evil spirit, and to give notice to thefetich-man of his approach.At last the sad vote was taken. It was declared that the oldman was a most malignant wizard; that he had already killed anumber of people; that he was minded to kill many more, andthat he must die. No one would tell me how he was to bekilled, and they proposed to defer the execution till my departure,which I was, to tell the truth, rather glad of. The whole scenehad considerably agitated me, and I was willing to be spared theend. Tired and sick at heart, I lay down on my bed about noonto rest and compose my spirits a little. After a while I saw aman pass my window, almost like a flash, and after him a hordeof silent but infuriated men. They ran toward the river.Then, in a little while, I heard a couple of sharp, piercingcries, as of a man in great agony, and then all was still as death.I got up, guessing the rascals had killed the poor old man,and turning my steps toward the river was met by the crowdreturning, every man armed with axe, knife, cutlass, or spear,and these weapons, and their own hands and arms and bodies,all sprinkled with the blood of their victim. In their frenzythey had tied the poor wizard to a log near the river-bank, andthen deliberately hacked him into many pieces. They finishedby splitting open his skull and scattering the brains in the water.Then they returned, and, to see their behaviour, it would haveseemed as though the country had just been delivered from agreat curse.By night the men-whose faces for two days had filled mewith loathing and horror, so bloodthirsty and malignant werethey were again as mild as lambs, and as cheerful as thoughthey had never heard of a witch tragedy.40 AFRICAN FONDNESS FOR FIRE. CHAP. V.These tribes suppose that no cruelty is too great to practiseupon a wizard; and this kind of legalised murder, though ittemporarily excites their passions, does not seem to afflict themwith any remorseful feelings at all.I was glad to take refuge in the woods during the heats of theday, my house, an eight by ten bamboo structure, low-roofed andclose, being uncomfortably heated. Yet the natives pass theiridle hours near a large fire, and this from a desire for warmth,though the thermometer stands at 88°. It is curious to see howthe negro relishes a fire. I have nowhere found them assembled,even in the hottest days, but about a great blaze; and the firstthing done, when a council or assemblage of any kind is to beheld, is to build a fire that would seem to be sufficient to thawout the north pole.August 17th being Sunday, I spent the day in my hut reading,to the great surprise of two fellows who were " town-keepers,the rest of the village having gone out to the fields to labour. Itried to explain to them that the Bible was a book given to usby the true God, and that there was but one God.They gave me the answer I have heard so often on the coast,"Oh yes, that is true for you, but white man's God is not ourGod; we are made by a different God. " And to this they stickpertinaciously.The following day (18th) we were to start for the interior.Dayoko gave me two of his sons to be of my party-a piece ofreal good luck for me. Also he sent messages to all the neighbouring tribes to command good treatment for me.The menasked to be paid before we started-a dangerous practice, as they are likely to run away. But as they were Dayoko'smen, and he had treated me well, I thought best to agree. Theyare real extortioners. I had to pay for canoes, for mat sails, forpaddles, for every least thing necessary for the outfit; and everyfathom of cloth or string of beads that could be got from me onany pretext I was relieved of. I finally agreed to give to eachman ten yards of cloth and a few leaves of tobacco. With thisthey were content. Then, to make them happier, I went to theirwives, who had all been very kind to me, and gave each sometobacco to solace her in her husband's absence.At last, and just before we were to start, when all was readyand the men were gathered, I had again to assure Dayoko that ICHAP. V. ON THE NTAMBOUNAY. 41did not at all intend to trade, but only to hunt for the gorilla, andvisit the mountains and their inhabitants. Happily, my personand pursuits are well known to all the tribes, who have given methe name of " Mona dee Chaillee, " meaning "the child ofChaillee," remembering me as my father's son.So at last we were off. My party consisted of two sons ofDayoko, myself, and several men to carry my chests and guns.Mbene, the Mbondemo chief, for whose place we are bound, is totake me into the heart of the Sierra del Crystal, and then "perhaps we shall cross over beyond, " I note in my journal, for Idesire and hope to reach the sources of the Congo by this route.We started in canoes, and paddled up a creek which led intothe Muni about ten miles above the Ndina's mouth. It was amost intricate piece of navigation, through mangrove swamps,which sometimes almost barred the way even to our little canoes;sometimes with the current against, and sometimes for us, andwith so many turns and twists that I think I should have beenpuzzled to get back alone.When, at last, we reached the Muni, the tide was setting downso strongly that we were two and a half hours paddling aboutfour miles. After a stop at a little village situated two milesbelow the point where two rivers-the Noya and the Ntambounay-join and form the Muni, we began to ascend the Ntambounay. We had the tide with us; for though the water hereis fresh, the influence of the tides is felt so far back as here,more especially in the dry season, when the stream is low andthe current sluggish. For the first twenty miles we ascendedthe river in an E.S.E. direction. It continued wide, being atleast 200 yards across all the way, and its banks formed a mostcharming landscape. The course of the stream was dotted andinterrupted by many small islands, whose shores were borderedwith graceful palms. Evidently we had got out of the dull anddreary region of mangrove swamps.Towards night we reached a Shekiani village, where we had tostop all night. It was one of the most uncomfortable nights ofmy life. I never saw natives so excited as were these savagesat the appearance of my chests and travelling-bag. Theircupidity was excited by what they thought must be fabulous.riches in my possession, and I was told at once by a head-manthat I could not pass to the interior without paying to this42 EXCITEMENT OF THE NEGROES. CHAP. V.Shekiani town a tribute of six shirts, 100 fathoms of cloth, threegreat-coats, and a great quantity of looking-glasses, files , andbeads. This would have entirely ruined me, and of course Ipaid no attention to the demand.As the excitement seemed to grow the longer I stayed, Iordered my men to lie in my hut, thinking that the fear ofkilling members of a friendly tribe might deter them from firingin upon me during the night. I certainly expected to be robbed,and had only a hope that the affair would be no more serious.I lay quietly down, with my double-barrelled gun by my side,ready for instant action, fully resolved to sell my life at as deara rate as possible. Meantime Dayoko's sons went out to palaverwith the chief.I did not sleep a wink all night. All night the crowd surrounded my house, talking, shouting, singing, and in the greatestexcitement. At last, about four o'clock, things became a littlequieter, and towards daylight those who were not asleep werestill.As early as I could go out I called on the king, and told himthat my chests contained only powder, shot, and other heavythings necessary for my journey; and also I gave his majestya few fathoms of cloth, and distributed a few leaves of tobaccoamong his bigmen; at which all were much satisfied . Theyasked for rum, but that I never give to these natives, and sorefused of course. Finally we left them, many of the peoplefollowing us along the river, and wishing us good luck andspeedy return. I was happy enough to get out of the scrape.We left our large canoe at the Shekiani village, and passedup the Ntambounay into the Noonday River, making in thisday, Tuesday, August 19th, a toilsome journey of twenty-ninemiles, twelve of which were on the Noonday.The Ntambounay was ascended in a direction S.E. by E. tillits junction with the Noonday. Here it takes a turn N. by E.,and, as we did not want to go this way, we turned into theNoonday, ascending this in a general direction to the S.E.The landscape continued beautiful on the Ntambounay. Thepalms lining the river-banks, and the numerous small islandswhich stud its smooth and glass-like bosom, the occasional deerwhich started away from the water-side as our canoe swept intosight, the shrill cries of various monkeys gazing at us in astonish-CHAP. V. AFRICAN RIVER TRAVEL. 43ment and terror, the clear sky and the magnificent solitude ofthese forests which surrounded us, and through whose trees wesaw only at considerable intervals the smoke curling up, whichannounced a village hid in the wilderness: all this was a constantdelight to every sense.As we were lazily sailing along, I espied two eagles sittingon some high trees about eighty yards off. Willing to give myfellows a taste of my quality, I called their attention to thebirds, and then brought both down with my double-barrel.They could hardly believe their eyes for surprise, such shootingbeing almost miraculous to them. When they had got a littleover their astonishment, I heard them say, "Ah! if he hadfought those Shekiani fellows last night, how many he wouldhave killed! "In the far distance the ranges of the Sierra del Crystal couldbe seen, the second and higher range rising above the first.The river we were ascending seemed to abound in fish, whichjumped frequently out of the water in pursuit of their insectprey; and the bright-blue kingfishers shot across the waterhither and thither, breaking the quiet with their shrill screams.As we got higher up the Noonday the stream became narrow,and finally almost dwindled away. Part of its course lay througha tangled thicket or jungle of aloe-trees, whose sharp thornstore our clothes, and wounded me so that I was covered withblood. We had here a fair sample of African “ river ” travel.The aloe-jungle grew, in many places, right into the narrowstream, and so filled it up that, had I not seen it, I should neverhave believed that a canoe could pass through. In severalplaces we had to get out and carry the canoe over fallen treeswhich entirely barred our progress, and all through it was abattle with the jungle, and a passage through a swamp ratherthan fair navigation. Yet this is the only highway of thiscountry, by which the natives bring all their ivory, ebony, andIndia-rubber to the coast; for even this is better than travelling through the almost impenetrable jungle on foot, in whichcase their poor women have to bear the heavy loads on theirshoulders.Dark came on before we had reached Mbene's town, whichwas the nearest settlement, and I had the ugly prospect beforeme of passing the night in this deadly swamp. Fortunately I44 VILLAGE DEFENCES. CHAP. V.had fallen in, at the Shekiani town, with a son of King Mbene;and this good fellow, now, seeing my men wearied out andunable to go farther, volunteered to hurry on to his father'stown and bring assistance. How far it was we knew not; buthe went off.We waited an hour, but no help arrived. Then I sent outtwo of my men to meet the party and hurry them on. Twohours more passed, and I had begun to despair of help, whenloud shouts ringing through the woods gave us notice of theapproach of our friends; and presently rushed in among usKing Mbene himself, his face radiant with smiles, and shoutinga welcome to me. He was followed by a large party of menand women, who took up my boxes and other things; Mbenetook one of my guns, and, thus relieved, we hurried on to thetown or encampment of my royal friend, which proved to beabout six miles off.The people had been here so little time that they had not hadtime to cut a road to the river, so that the few miles we traversedfrom the river- side were of the roughest. Happily, elephantsare plentiful hereabouts, and when we could we walked in theirhuge tracks—the rushing of a herd effecting quite a clearing inthe woods, though everything grows up again with marvellousrapidity.I thought to come to a town. My astonishment was greatwhen I found, instead of the usual plantations of plantain-treeswhich surround the collection of huts which make up an Africanvillage, an immense mass of timber thrown down helter-skelter,as though a hurricane had passed through this part of the forest.It appeared that Mbene's people had their village at some distance off, but came here to make new plantations, and this wastheir way of making a clearing. It is the usual way amongthese tribes. The men go into the forest and choose a site forthe plantation; then cut down the trees in any way, just as luckor fancy may direct; let everything lie till the dry season hassufficiently seasoned the great trees, when they set fire to thewhole mass, burn it up, and on its site the women then planttheir manioc, maize, and plantains.It was only with the greatest difficulty, and with many tearsfrom thorns and trips from interposing boughs, that I got throughthis barrier, than which they could not have made a better wallCHAP. V. MBENE'S VILLAGE. 45of defence for their village. For once get an enemy entangledin such a piece of ground, and they could pepper him at theirconvenience, without fear of retaliation.At last, when my patience was entirely gone, and my fewclothes were literally hanging in ribbons about me, we arrived atthe camp. Here we were received in grand African style. Gunswere fired, the people shouted and danced, everybody was asjolly as though everybody's brother had just come back rich,and I was immediately installed under a shed, whither the kinggraciously followed me with a present-very welcome indeed—of a goat and some bunches of plantains.The plantain is the bread of all these tribes. Lucky wouldthey be if they always had such bread to eat; but their thriftlesshabits leave them without even the easily- cultivated plantain ,and force them to eke out a wretched subsistence from the wildroots, nuts, and berries which are found in the forests.I had seen Mbene before, and several of his people recognizedme, having seen me when, some years ago, I attempted an exploration of this region in company with the Rev. Mr. Mackey.These good fellows now manifested extraordinary joy, and welcomed me to their town with all sorts of dances and songs, andoffers of service.Mbene's village or encampment is situated at the foot of thefirst granite-range of the Sierra del Crystal. The forest- clad hillsides were visible in the distance, and were to me a delightfulspectacle, for I saw that I was now approaching the goal of mydesires. The people had not as yet built themselves houses, butwere living in camp, under rude sheds composed of leaves spreadthickly over four forked sticks planted in the ground. Hereeach head of a family gathered his wives, children, and slavesabout him, and rested in safety and peace. One of the best constructed of these sheds-one whose sticks stood upright, andwhose leafy roof was water-tight—was given me, and here Ipresently fell soundly asleep, after first placing my two chestsnear my head.On rising the next morning, I found that we were really notmore than ten or fifteen miles from the hills. Yesterday eveningwe could see two ranges; the lower 500 or 600 feet high, andthe farther and higher from 2000 to 3000 feet high. It isbeyond these hills that the Fans-the cannibal tribe-live, andthe gorilla has here also his home.46 AGRICUTLURAL OPERATIONS. CHAP. V.Mbene excused himself for what he thought a shabby receptionof me. He said that his people had but just come here; that themen had been busy all the dry season cutting down trees andclearing the woods. He said that they had had very little toeat; had been obliged to beg food of the neighbouring tribes,and half the time had nothing to eat but the nut of a sort ofpalm, of which they also make a kind of wine. This nut is verybitter; I could never eat it. It is shaped like an egg, withrounded ends. To prepare it it is divested of its husk andsoaked in water for twenty-four hours, when it loses in part itsexceedingly bitter taste, and becomes tolerably palatable to ahungry man. Sometimes hunger presses them to eat the nutwithout soaking it-I have been compelled to do so—and it isthen excessively disagreeable.I saw at once that it would not do for me to stay long withMbene, for I could not live as these people do; and of my ownstores, though I had a few crackers and sea-biscuit left, thesewould not last long, and ought to be kept for possible sickness.The negro tribes of this region are half the time in a state ofstarvation by their utter improvidence. They seem unable tocope with want, even with so fertile a country as theirs to helpthem. Such encampments as this of Mbene's are common amongall the tribes. Their agricultural operations are of the rudestkind, and, from the necessity of seeking out the most fertile soilas well as from general habit, they prefer to go to a distance fromtheir villages to clear and plant the ground. They never planttwo successive years in the same place, and have, therefore, muchlabour in clearing the ground every time. And, after all, it isnot uncommon for a village to lose all the fruits of its laboursby the incursions of a herd of elephants, who trample down.what they do not eat up. This happens especially to plantainplantations.The encampment is called an olako, this word signifying also anew site for a village or any place of temporary sojourn. Anolako is a romantic scene to look at, particularly in the night,when every family has its fire, near which its beds are madeunder the shades before described. But hunger spoils theprettiest romance; and I would have given up the camp willingly for a good roast fowl or a sufficient supply of bread.I told Mbene that as his place had no food to offer I must gofarther; explained to him my objects; and finally it was agreedCHAP. V. OFFER OF A WIFE.47that his brother Ncomo should accompany me with a party asfar as the Fan tribe. So much was settled without difficulty;but still several weeks passed ere my company was ready tostart. Meantime I made myself as comfortable as possibleunder the circ*mstances. The king's wives supplied me withmats for my bed, and under these I put dry leaves enough tomake a soft couch. On each side of the bed I built a fire tokeep off the musquitoes, which were very troublesome, and thusI tried to sleep at night. My weary days were spent in hunting.I ought to add that, with usual African hospitality, my kinglyfriend offered me a wife on my arrival at his place. This is thecommon custom when the negroes wish to pay respect to theirguests, and they cannot understand why white men shoulddecline what they consider a mere matter of course. I endeavoured to explain to Mbene and his wives what our own customswere in regard to marriage; but neither men nor women seemedto understand or appreciate the Christian idea of marriage.The musquitoes penetrated through the smoke of my fires,and bit me so that I could scarce sleep on the first night aftermy arrival, and, to make matters yet more unpleasant, the rainpoured on me through a leaky place in my leafy shelter, so thatI arose next morning wet, sore, hungry, but withal feelingunusually well.I went to make arrangements with Ncomo for an early start.Found that his women had gone out to beg food for their trip.Mbene gave me a chicken for my dinner-an unusual luxury.But I had to shoot my fowl before eating it. The natives buildno perches for their poultry, and the consequence is that thechickens fly to roost in the topmost branches of the trees, wherethey are safe from predatory attacks of all kinds, either by theirowners or by wild beasts.When I declined Mbene's offer of a " wife," he said, " Ohwell, she can at any rate wait on you and cook for you; " and soI am lucky enough to have a good cook. The negroes use a gooddeal of pepper in their cooking, which I think healthy for thisclimate; otherwise my chicken-soup was good enough, and, withthe addition of some plantain boiled, and some remains of thegoat which had been given to me yesterday, I made a very gooddinner-probably the last I shall get for a good many days,unless we are unusually lucky and kill some deer or elephanton our road.48 " MBENE'S WHITE MAN. " CHAP. VI.The Hills ―CHAPTER VI.-―-Hold of a Traveller on the Natives Fruits The Mbondemo -- TheirTowns- Houses - Morals of War Condition of Women Women asBearers - A Caravan - Mutiny - Rapids of the NtambounaySummit of the Sierra - Contemplations interrupted by a Serpent - Thefirst Gorilla Appearance in Motion - Famine in the Camp - NativeStories of the Gorilla - Superstitious Notions about the Animal- Lifeless- ness ofthe Forest- - A Beetrai .-TO-DAY (August 20th) I sent back Dayoko's men, and am nowin Mbene's power and at his mercy. He is a very good fellow,and I feel myself quite safe among his rough but kindly people.I have found it the best way to trust the people I travel among.They seem to take it as a compliment, and they are proud tohave a white man among them. Even if a chief were inclinedto murder, it would not be profitable in such a case, for theexhibition of his white visitor among the neighbouring tribesdoes more to give him respect and prestige than his murderwould.They speak of me now as " Mbene's white man. " Before Iwas " Dayoko's white man." The title has comfort and safetyin it, for it would be a great insult to Mbene for any strangerto molest his white man, and it is to his own honour to feedhim as well as he can.Of course, one must have tact enough to satisfy the chief withoccasional little presents, given him generally in private, so thathis people may not beg from him, and given, also, not as thoughyou wished to conciliate-for it will not do to show any symptoms of fear however much cause there may be-but apparentlyas friendly gifts.This is the only safe way to get ahead in this country, and Inever found a chief whose " white man " I was for the time butwould help and further my plans and journeys.Dayoko's men are to return to Mbene's camp in three months.to look for me, and I have to be back, if possible, by that time.The women have brought in a supply of the bitter palm- seedsand of other fruits, mostly more palatable than that bitterabomination, but unfortunately not so plentiful. Among theseCHAP. VI. MBONDEMO SQUATTERS. 49is a round nut the size of a large walnut, containing three orfour oily kernels, each of the size of a peanut; when these wereroasted they were not disagreeable. And there was a remarkably magnificent fruit which I never saw before, resembling ingeneral shape a bunch of grapes, each grape olive-shaped, andthe whole of a bright scarlet colour. It was really a splendidsight to see these glowing bunches hanging from the trunks ofthe trees which bear them. The seed is larger than that of theolive; the skin not so thick as that; and the pulp is quite juicyand of a pleasant, flavour.The Mbondemo tribe is allied to the Mbisho, Mbiki, Mbousha,Ibouay, Acoa, and Shekiani tribes. The speech of all thesetribes is nearly alike. They can all understand each other.Also they have the same general customs and superstitions, andthe same nomadic habits. The Mbondemo live or have theirtowns in the mountains of the interior east of Cape Lopez, andin that tract of country which extends from north of the Munito the Moondah River.Since I first knew Mbene he had moved his village twice, hispresent removal making the third. I asked what reasons movedhim to these changes. The first time, he said, a man had diedthere, and the place was " not good " after that. The secondtime he was forced to move because they had cut down all thepalm-trees, and could get no more mimbo (palm-wine) , a beverageof which they are excessively fond, though they take no painsto preserve the trees out of the soft tops of which it is made.But these are very plentiful all over the country; and it seemseasier for them to move than to take care of the trees surrounding their settlements, useful as they are to them; for theyfurnish not only the wine they love, but the very bitter nut Imentioned before, which often keeps them from starvation;while of its trunk, split up, they make the sides of their houses.A country which has plenty of palm-trees, plenty of game, agood river, and plenty of fish, is the ideal region of a Mbondemosettler or squatter.The Mbondemo villages differ materially in their arrangements from those of the seashore tribes I have already described.The houses are mostly of uniform size, generally from twelve tofifteen feet long, and eight or ten feet wide. They are built onboth sides of a long and tolerably wide street, and invariably joinE50 A MBONDEMO INTERIOR. CHAP. VI.each other. The chief's house and the palaver- house are largerthan the others. The ends of the street are barricaded withstout sticks or palisades, and at night the doors or gates of thevillage are firmly closed, and persons approaching, if they cannot explain their intentions, are remorselessly shot down orspeared. The houses have no windows, and doors only on theside towards the street; and when the door of the street islocked, the village is, in fact, a fortress. As an additional protection, however, they often cut down thorny brushwood andblock up the surrounding approaches; and, also, they alwayslocate the village on the top of the highest hill they can find inthe region where, for the time being, they squat. All thisshows-what is the truth-that they are a quarrelsome, thoughnot a brave race. They are continually in hot- water with theirneighbours, and never know when they are to be attacked.Interiorly the Mbondemo house is divided by a bark partitioninto two rooms; one the kitchen, where also everybody sits orlies down on the ground about the fire; the other the sleepingapartment. This last is perfectly dark; and here are stowed theirprovisions and all their riches. To ascertain how large a familyany Mbondemo householder has, you have only to count the little doors which open into the various sleeping apartments: “ Somany doors so many wives," it was explained to me. The housesare made of bark and a kind of jointless bamboo, which is gotfrom the trunk of a particular palm. The strips are tied to postsset firmly into the ground, with rope made from the vines of theforest. The roofing is made of matting. The houses are neitherso large, so substantially built, nor so good-looking as those of theMpongwe.To-day (21st) my men have been getting ready their guns forenemies or game. The tribes of Africa have so many petty causesof quarrel, that they are always in danger of a fight. They areso bound together by ridiculous superstitions of witchcraft, andbythe entangling alliances of polygamy, and greatly also bytheirwant of good faith in trade, that no man can say where or why anenemy is waiting for his life.I have already spoken of the system of intermarriages by whicha chief gains in power and friends. But there are other meansofsecuring allies. For instance, two tribes are anxious for a fight,but one needs more force. This weakling sends one of its menCHAP. VI. THE WOMAN'S QUESTION.51secretly to kill a man or woman of some village living near, buthaving no share in the quarrel. The consequence is, not, aswould seem most reasonable, that this last village takes its revenge on the murderer, but, strangely enough, that the murderer's people give them to understand that this is done becauseanother tribe has insulted them, whereupon, according to Africancustom, the two villages join, and together march upon theenemy. In effect, to gain a village to a certain side in aquarrel, that side murders one of its men or women, with a purpose of retaliation on somebody else.Their women they keep only to minister to their pride, influence, pleasure, and sloth. A man pays goods or slaves forhis wife, and regards her therefore as a piece of merchandise.Young girls-even children in arms-are married to old menfor political effect. The idea of love, as we understand it, seemsunknown to these people. The inhabitant of the seacoast hasno hesitation in bartering the virtue of his nearest female relatives, nor are the women averse from the traffic, if only they bewell paid. And I will add that many of the whites who come tothe coast, sailors and others, do more to debauch and demoralizethese poor, ignorant natives than even their own ignoranceand brutality would do.Adultery with a black man is punishable by fine among all thetribes, and this law, which is strictly executed, is the cause of amost singular state of things. Husband and wife combine torob some fellow with whom the woman pretends to carry on anintrigue, making sure of being discovered by the husband, whothereupon obtains a recompense sufficient to heal his woundedhonour, and upon which he and his wife and accomplice areable to live for some time.Unlawful intercourse with the women of a neighbouring tribe orvillage is the cause of nearly all the " palavers," and wars, andfights in Africa. If a tribe wants to fight, they make this thecause by getting one of their women to intrigue with a man ofthe other tribe or village; and if they do not want to fight even,they are often forced into it.Then the system of intermarrying involves half-a-dozen tribesin the quarrel of two. Each chief calls on his fathers-in-law toassist, and thus the country is thrown into uproar; property isunsafe, and becomes almost valueless to them; agriculturalE 252 MORALS OF WAR. CHAP. VI.operations are impeded, and whole villages gradually disappearfrom the scene of contention, either by migrating, starving out,or being killed out.The women not only provide all the food, they are also thebeasts of burden in this part of Africa. My party from Mbene'stown consisted of Mbene's two sons, Miengai and Maginda, ayoung man named Pouliandai, and half-a-dozen stout womento bear my heavy chests and other luggage, and food for thejourney.We started at length on the morning of August 24th . Thenatives had done what they could to gather food beforehand forthe trip, but the result was poor enough. My own supplies wereby this time completely exhausted. The half-dozen crackers Ihad in reserve were for sickness or a great emergency. Besidesthis, they had succeeded in getting several large bunches ofplantains and a good many of the bitter palm-nuts, and thatwas all the commissariat.I took along 70 pounds of shot, 19 pounds of powder, and10 pounds of arsenic for killing and preserving my specimens;also my chests, containing cloth, tobacco, beads, &c. , to buy foodand give presents to the natives we should meet. I made Miengaicarry the shot, as the women had already enough. But mymen were all loaded with trade on their own account, consistingof brass kettles, iron pots, jugs, &c., and about 100 pounds ofsalt, put up in little packages of three or four pounds.The packing of the women is a subject of great importance.They carry their loads in heavy, rude baskets, suspended downthe back; and it is necessary that these should be carefullyarranged, with three or four inches of soft tree-fibre next to theback to prevent chafing.When all was arranged-when everybody had taken leave ofall his friends, and come back half-a-dozen times to take leaveover again, or say something before forgotten-when all theshouting, and ordering, and quarrelling were done, and I hadcompletely lost patience, we at last got away.In about five miles' travel we came to the banks of the Noonday River, which is here a narrow, but clear and beautifulstream , so clear that I was tempted to shoot a fish of curiousshape I saw swimming along as we stood on the bank.I fired a charge of small shot into him; but no sooner had ICHAP. VI. THE SIERRA DEL CRYSTAL. 53pulled the trigger than I heard a tremendous crash on the opposite bank, above six or seven yards across, saw some small treestorn violently down, and then came the shrill trumpetings of aparty of frightened elephants. They had been standing ina dead silence on the opposite bank in the jungle, whetherwatching us or not we could not tell. I was sorry I fired ,as we crossed the stream just here, and we might have killedone but for this fright they got, which sent them out of ourreach.After crossing the Noonday, and travelling ten miles in a northeast direction, we reached a range of granite hills, which are apart of the Sierra del Crystal mountains. The hills were verysteep, and to ascend them in as good style as possible we satdown and took our dinners first. I ate a few boiled plantains,not very strengthening, but the best we could get, and then weessayed the crooked and poorly-marked path up-hill, which woundits devious course about immense boulders of granite and quartz,which, scattered along the declivity, gave the country a verystrange look.This range was about 600 feet high, and the summit formed atable-land three miles long, which also was strewed with the immense quartz and granite boulders.Passing this table-land, we came to another tier of hills, steeperand higher than the first, which also had to be surmounted. Inthis kind of travelling I find that the natives have a great advantage over me. They use their bare feet almost as monkeys dotheirs. Long practice enables them to catch hold of objects withtheir toes, and they could jump from rock to rock without fearof falling, while I, with thick shoes on, was continually slipping,and got along very slowly.We were yet on the first plateau when Miengai suddenly mademe a sign to keep very still. He and I were in advance. Ithought he had discovered a herd of elephants, or perhaps a tiger.He co*cked his gun, and I mine, and there we stood for five minutesin perfect silence. Suddenly Miengai sent a "hurrah " rollingthrough the forest, which was immediately answered by shoutsfrom many voices at no great distance, but whose owners werehid from us by the rocks and trees. Miengai replied with thefierce shout of the Mbondemo warriors, and was again answered.Going a little farther on, we came in sight of the encampment of54 MBONDEMO CARAVAN. CHAP. VI.a large party, who proved to be some of Mbene's people just returning from a trading expedition to the interior.It was a curious picture. They lay encamped about their firesto the number of about a hundred-young and old, men andwomen; some gray and wrinkled, and others babes in arms.They had evidently travelled far, and were tired out. They hadcollected India-rubber, and had in charge some ivory, and werenow about to take these goods to Mbene or some other riverchief, to be sent down from hand to hand to the " white- manmarket."Here even I noticed the laziness of the black men, and the cruelway in which the women are obliged to work. The Mbondemomen lay about the fires, handling their spears and guns, and talking or sleeping, while the women were doing the cooking andmaking the camp comfortable, and such of the children as couldwalk were driven out to collect firewood for the night. Thepoor things seemed to be very weary, but they got no mercy.Being tired ourselves, we built our camp-fires near the party,and I had the opportunity next day to see them get under way.The men carried only their arms, and most of them were armedto the teeth. The women and larger children carried, in theusual baskets, suspended along the back, the food-of which theyseemed to have a good supply-the ivory and India-rubber, andbesides still in the basket-such of the babies as could by nomeans get along alone. The old people were not exempt fromlight burdens, though they had to totter along with the help oflong sticks.The whole party were very thinly clothed, even for Africa.They had with them an old chief, to whom they seemed to paymuch reverence, and he was constantly waited upon by his wives,of whom he seemed to have several with him. I gave them alittle salt, for which they seemed very grateful.Next morning we broke up before daylight, after eating a veryscanty breakfast of a few cooked plantains. It rained all day,and consequently we tramped all day in the mud, wet through,and chilly. About noon we met another large party of travellingMbondemo returning from the interior. They had never seen awhite man before, and stared at me with all the eyes they had,though they did not seem frightened. I fear my appearancegave them but a poor idea of white people. I was clothed inCHAP. VI. CAMPING IN THE BUSH.ગ55only a blue drilling shirt and trowsers, both wet, and the lattermuddy. They begged for some tobacco " to warm themselves,"and a few leaves which I gave them made them perfectly happy.They seemed to suffer from the rain much more than I did,especially the women, who I took care should have their shareof the tobacco.Among this party were two fellows, named Ngolai and Yeava,who were from Mbene's village, and well known to Mbene's sons.These offered to go with us if we would give them food, as theirswas nearly gone, and Miengai and Maginda promising this much,they at once joined our party.After a walk of about eighteen miles in the rain, through thickwoods, and over a rough hilly country (and in a general directionof E.S.E.) , we came to our camp, and to my delight found verylarge and commodious huts ready for us. This is a highway, itseems, of this country, though no signs of a road are visible, anddifferent parties of traders had built and kept up these very neatand comfortable sheds. They were built of sticks, as in Mbene'svillage, but were better roofed, and larger. Large leaves werelaid over the sticks, and being carefully disposed shinglewisekept out the rain completely.We built great fires and made ourselves comfortable. I hadthree fires lit about my bed of brush, hung up my wet clothes todry, and, after comforting myself with a little brandy, went tosleep in much more than usual snugness, not knowing the “ palaver " which was in store for me on the morrow.When we got up, much refreshed, my men came and said theywere tired, and would not go a step farther if I did not pay themmore cloth.They seemed in earnest, and I was, as may be imagined, inconsiderable trouble of mind. To return now, when I had gotso far along, was not to be thought of. To be left alone wouldhave been almost certain death, and to give what they demandedwas to rob myself and set a bad precedent to my guides. Finally,I determined to put on a bold front. I went into the crowd, toldthem-pistols in hand—that I should not give them any morecloth; that neither could I permit them to leave me, because theirfather, Mbene, had given them to me to accompany me to theFan tribe. So far, I told them, they must go with me, or elsehere I motioned with my pistols -there would be war between56 FAMINE. CHAP. VI.us. But, I added, if they were faithful, I would give each something additional when the trip was done.After a consultation among themselves, they finally said thatthey were pleased with what I said, and were my friends. Hereupon, with great lightness of heart at my escape from an uglydilemma, I shook hands with them, and we set out on thejourney.It was ten o'clock before we made a start on this day. Wewere now approaching the second mountain-range of the Sierradel Crystal, and passing through a wild country, densely wooded,rough, and strewn along the higher ground with immenseboulders, which gave an additional wildness to the scene. Up,and up, and up we struggled, through a forest more silent thanI recollect to have noticed in Africa before or since. Noteven the scream of a bird or the shrill cry of a monkey to breakthe dark solitude-and either would have been welcome; for,though I generally abominate monkey, which, roasted, looks toomuch like roast-baby, I was now at that point of semi- starvationwhen I should have very much delighted in a tender bit evenof gorilla .Nothing was heard but the panting breathings of our party,who were becoming exhausted by the ascent, till, at last, Ithought I heard a subdued roar as of a fall of water.It grewplainer as we toiled on, and finally filled the whole air with itsgrand rush; soon turning a sharp corner of a declivity andmarching on a little way, the fall literally burst upon oursight one of the grandest views I ever saw. It was not awaterfall, but an immense mountain-torrent dashing down-hillat an angle of twenty- five or thirty degrees, for not less than amile right before us, like a vast, seething, billowy sea. Theriver- course was full of the huge granite boulders which lieabout here as though the Titans had been playing at skittlesin this country; and against these the angry waters dashedas though they would carry all before them, and, breaking,threw the milky spray up to the very tops of the trees whichgrew along the edge.Where we stood at the foot of the rapids the stream took awinding turn down the mountain; but we had the whole mile offoaming rapid before us, seemingly pouring its mass of watersdown upon our heads.

HEAD -WATERS OFTHE NTAMBOUNAY .CHAP. VI. ATTACKED BY A SERPENT. 57These were the head-waters of the Ntambounay.Drinking a few handfuls of its pure, clear, cool water, wetravelled onward, still up hill and partly along the edge of therapids. In another hour we reached a cleared space where aMbondemo village had once stood, and where we were surroundedwith some of the springs which contribute their waters to thetorrent below us. And this was the summit.From this elevation-about 5000 feet above the ocean level--I enjoyed an unobstructed view as far as the eye could reach.The hills we had surmounted the day before lay quietly atour feet, seeming mere molehills. On all sides stretched theimmense virgin forests, with here and there the sheen of awatercourse. And far away in the east loomed the blue topsof the farthest range of the Sierra del Crystal, the goal of mydesires. The murmur of the rapids below filled my ears, and,as I strained my eyes toward those distant mountains which Ihoped to reach, I began to think how this wilderness would lookif only the light of Christian civilization could once be fairlyintroduced among the black children of Africa. I dreamed offorests giving way to plantations of coffee, cotton, and spices; ofpeaceful negroes going to their contented daily tasks; of farmingand manufactures; of churches and schools; and, luckily raisingmy eyes heavenward at this stage of my thoughts, saw pendentfrom the branch of a tree beneath which I was sitting an immenseserpent, evidently preparing to gobble up this dreaming intruderon his domains.My dreams offuture civilization vanished in a moment. Luckilymy gun lay at hand. I rushed out so as to " stand from under,”and, taking good aim, shot my black friend through the head. Helet go his hold, and, after dancing about a little on the ground,lay dead before me. He measured a little over thirteen feet inlength, and his fangs proved that he was venomous.And now that Christian civilization of which I had mused sopleasantly a few minutes before received another shock. Mymen cut off the head of the snake, and, dividing the body intoproper pieces, roasted it and ate it on the spot; and I -poor,starved, but civilized mortal! —stood by, longing for a meal, butunable to stomach this. So much for civilization, which is a verygood thing in its way, but has no business in an African forestwhen food is scarce.58 GORILLA- TRACKS. CHAP. VI.When the snake was eaten, and I, the only empty- stomachedindividual of the company, had sufficiently reflected on the disadvantages of being bred in a Christian country, we began tolook about the ruins of the village near which we sat. Adegenerate kind of sugarcane was growing on the very spotwhere the houses had formerly stood, and I made haste to plucksome of this and chew it for the little sweetness it had. But aswe were plucking my men perceived what instantly threw us allinto the greatest excitement. Here and there the cane wasbeaten down, torn up by the roots, and lying about in fragmentswhich had evidently been chewed.I knew that these were fresh tracks of the gorilla, and joyfilled my heart. My men looked at each other in silence, andmuttered Nguyla, which is as much as to say in Mpongwe Ngina,or, as we say, gorilla.We followed these traces, and presently came to the footprintsof the so-long-desired animal. It was the first time I had everseen these footprints, and my sensations were indescribable.Here was I now, it seemed, on the point of meeting face toface that monster of whose ferocity, strength, and cunning thenatives had told me so much; an animal scarce known to thecivilized world, and which no white man before had hunted.My heart beat till I feared its loud pulsations would alarmthe gorilla, and my feelings were really excited to a painfuldegree.By the tracks it was easy to know that there must have beenseveral gorillas in company. We prepared at once to followthem.The women were terrified, poor things! and we left them agood escort of two or three men to take care of them and reassure them. Then the rest of us looked once more carefully atour guns-for the gorilla gives you no time to reload, and woeto him whom he attacks! We were armed to the teeth. Mymen were remarkably silent, as they were going on an expedition of more than usual risk; for the male gorilla is literallythe king of the African forest. He and the crested lion ofMount Atlas are the two fiercest and strongest beasts of thiscontinent. The lion of South Africa cannot compare with eitherfor strength or courage.As we departed from the camp, the men and women left behindCHAP. VI. HUNTING GORILLAS. 59crowded together, with fear written on their faces. Miengai,Makinda, and Ngolai set out in one party, and myself andYeava formed another, for the hunt. We determined to keepnear each other, that in emergency we might be at hand to helpeach other. And for the rest, silence and a sure aim were theonly cautions to be given.As we followed the tracks we could easily see that there werefour or five of them; though none appeared very large. Wesaw where they had run along on all fours, the usual mode ofprogression of these animals; and where, from time to time, theyhad seated themselves to chew the canes they had borne off.The chace began to be very exciting.We had agreed to return to the women and their guards, andconsult upon final operations, when we should have discoveredtheir probable course; and this was now done. To make sureof not alarming our prey, we moved the whole party forward alittle way to where some leafy huts, built by passing traders,served for shelter and concealment. And having here bestowedthe women-who have a lively fear of the terrible gorilla, inconsequence of various stories current among the tribes of womenhaving been carried off into the woods by the fierce animal-weprepared once more to set out in chace, this time hopeful to catcha shot.Looking once more to our guns, we started off. I confess thatI never was more excited in my life. For years I had heard ofthe terrible roar of the gorilla, of its vast strength, its fiercecourage, if, unhappily, only wounded by a shot. I knew that wewere about to pit ourselves against an animal which even theleopard of these mountains fears, and which, perhaps, has driventhe lion out of this territory; for the king of beasts, so numerouselsewhere in Africa, is never met in the land of the gorilla.Thus it was with no little emotion that I now turned againtoward the prize at which I had been hoping for years to get ashot.We descended a hill, crossed a stream on a fallen log, andpresently approached some huge boulders of granite. Alongside of this granite block lay an immense dead tree, and aboutthis we saw many evidences of the very recent presence of thegorillas.Our approach was very cautious. We were divided into two60 MAN-LIKE APPEARANCE OF THE GORILLA. CHAP. VI.parties. Makinda led one and I the other. We were to surroundthe granite block behind which Makinda supposed the gorillasto be hiding. Guns co*cked and in hand, we advanced throughthe dense wood, which cast a gloom even in midday over thewhole scene. I looked at my men, and saw plainly that theywere in even greater excitement than myself.Slowly we pressed on through the dense brush, fearing almostto breathe lest we should alarm the beasts. Makinda was to goto the right of the rock, while I took the left. Unfortunately, hecircled it at too great a distance. The watchful animals sawhim. Suddenly I was startled by a strange, discordant, halfhuman, devilish cry, and beheld four young gorillas runningtoward the deep forests. We fired, but hit nothing. Then werushed on in pursuit; but they knew the woods better than we.Once I caught a glimpse of one of the animals again, but an intervening tree spoiled my mark, and I did not fire. We ran tillwe were exhausted, but in vain. The alert beasts made good their escape. When we could pursue no more we returnedslowly to our camp, where the women were anxiously expecting us.I protest I felt almost like a murderer when I saw the gorillasthis first time. As they ran- on their hind legs-they lookedfearfully like hairy men; their heads down, their bodies inclinedforward, their whole appearance like men running for their lives.Take with this their awful cry, which, fierce and animal as it is,has yet something human in its discordance, and you will ceaseto wonder that the natives have the wildest superstitions aboutthese " wild men of the woods. ”In our absence the women had built large fires and prepared.the camp, which was not so comfortable as last night's, but yetprotected us from rain. I changed my clothes, which had become wet through by the frequent torrents and puddles we ranthrough in our eager pursuit, and then we sat down to our supper,which had been cooked meantime. And now I noticed that, bythe improvidence of the women, who are no better managersthan the men (poor things! ), all my plantains were gone-eatenup; so that I had to depend for next day-and in fact for theremainder of our passage to the Fan tribe-on two or threebiscuits which, luckily, I yet possessed.As we lay about the fire in the evening before going to sleepCHAP. VI. GORILLA STORIES. 61the adventure of the day was talked over, and of course therefollowed some curious stories of the gorillas. I listened in silenceto the conversation, which was not addressed to me, and was rewarded by hearing the stories as they are believed, and not as astranger would be apt to draw them out by questions.One of the men told a story of two Mbondemo women whowere walking together through the woods, when suddenly an immense gorilla stepped into the path, and, clutching one of thewomen, bore her off in spite of the screams and struggles of both.The other woman returned to the village, sadly frightened, andrelated the story. Of course her companion was given up forlost. Great was the surprise, therefore, when, a few days afterward, she returned to her home. She related that the gorillahad misused her, but that she had eventually escaped from him.Yes," said one of the men, " that was a gorilla inhabited bya spirit."66Which explanation was received with a general grunt ofapproval.They believe, in all this country, that there is a kind of gorilla-known to the initiated by certain mysterious signs, but chieflyby being of extraordinary size-which is the residence of certainspirits of departed negroes. Such gorillas, the natives believe,can never be caught or killed; and, also, they have much moreshrewdness and sense than the common animal. In fact, in these"possessed " beasts, it would seem that the intelligence of man isunited with the strength and ferocity of the beast. No wonderthe poor African dreads so terrible a being as his imaginationthus conjures up.One of the men told how, some years ago, a party of gorillaswere found in a cane-field tying up the sugarcane in regularbundles, preparatory to carrying it away. The natives attackedthem, but were routed, and several killed, while others were carried off prisoners by the gorillas; but in a few days they returned home uninjured, with this horrid exception: the nails oftheir fingers and toes had been torn off by their captors.Some years ago a man suddenly disappeared from his village.It is probable that he was carried off by a tiger; but as no newscame of him, the native superstition invented a cause for hisabsence. It was related and believed that, as he walked throughthe wood one day, he was suddenly changed into a hideous large62 A JOURNEY ON AN EMPTY STOMACH. CHAP. VI.gorilla, which was often pursued afterwards, but never killed,though it continually haunted the neighbourhood of the village.Here several spoke up and mentioned names of men now deadwhose spirits were known to be dwelling in gorillas.Finally was rehearsed the story which is current among allthe tribes who at all know the gorilla: that this animal lies inwait in the lower branches of trees, watching for people who goto and fro; and, when one passes sufficiently near, grasps theluckless fellow with his powerful feet, and draws him up into thetree, where he quietly chokes him.Many of the natives agree, I say, in ascribing to the animalthis trait of lying in wait for his enemies and drawing them up tohim by his " lower hands, " as they may properly be called. ButI have little doubt that this story is incorrect. Of course, thesecluded habits of this animal, which lives only in the darkestforests, and carefully shuns all approach to man, help to fill thenatives with curious superstitions regarding it.This day we travelled fifteen miles, ten of which were easterly,and five to the south- east.The next day we went out on another gorilla-hunt, but foundno traces at all. I came in very tired; ate all my sea- bread;and though we tried our best, we did not manage to reach acertain settlement which Makinda had assured me was near. Iwas now at the end of my provisions. I have never been able toeat the wild nuts which the natives miserably subsist on in suchstraits, and began to feel anxious to reach some village. Fortravelling on an empty stomach is too exhausting to be verylong endured, as former experience had taught me.We rose early next morning, and trudged off breakfastless.There was not a particle of food among us. Singularly enough,I thought yesterday was Saturday, and only discovered to-daythat it was Tuesday. We crossed several streams, and travelledall day through a forest of an almost chilling gloom and solitude,ascending, in the midst, the steepest and highest hill we haveso far met with. I suppose it to be part of the third range ofthe Sierra.I felt vexed at the thoughtlessness of my men, who ought tohave provided food enough to last us. But I ought to praisethe poor fellows, for, though long hungry themselves, they gaveme the greater part of the few nuts they found. But thereCHAP. VI. A FEED ON HONEY. 63is no nourishment for my poor civilized blood in these rudethings.This is one of the hardest days' travel I ever accomplished.We made twenty miles in a general direction of east, thoughsome deductions must be made for deviations from a straightline.The forest seemed deserted. Not a bird even to kill. Weheard the chatter of a few monkeys, but sought in vain to getnear them for a shot. When we camped I took a swallow ofbrandy and went to sleep, as the best way to forget my miseries.The next morning I woke up feeble, but found that the fellows had killed a monkey, which, roughly roasted on the coals,tasted delicious, though I think, under average circ*mstances,the human look of the animal would have turned me from it. Toadd to our satisfaction, Makinda presently discovered a bee- hivein the hollow of a tree. We smoked the bees out and dividedthe honey, which was full of worms, but was nevertheless alleaten up. We were so nearly famished that we could scarcewait for the hive to be emptied. No sooner was the honeyspread out on leaves and laid on the grass, than everyone of themen was ready to clutch the biggest piece he could lay his handon and eat away. There might have been a fight, to preventwhich I interposed, and divided the whole sweet booty into equalshares, reserving for myself only a share with the rest. Thisdone, everyone-myself included-at once sat down and devoured honey, wax, dead bees, worms, dirt, and all, and our onlysorrow was that we had not more.We had a hard time getting through old elephant- tracks, whichwere the best road through the jungle. Saw no animals, butmet with several gorilla-tracks.Towards two o'clock the men began to be very jolly, which Itook to be a sign of our approach to a village. Presently theyshouted, and, looking up towards the face of a hill before us, Isaw the broad leaves of the plantain, the forerunner of anAfrican town. Since we left Mbene's town these were the firsthuman habitations we had met with, and I was not a littlerefreshed by the sight.But alas! as we approached we found no one coming out tomeet us, as is the hospitable way in Africa, and when we got tothe place we found it entirely deserted. It was an old town of64 A DESERTED VILLAGE. CHAP. VI.Mbene's people. Presently, however, some Mbicho people livingnear, relatives of Mbene's, came to see us, and gave us someplantains. But I could not get what I needed most-a fowl.The Mbichos were in great amazement. None had ever seena white man before. They thought me very singular.We spent the evening in our houses drying and warming ourselves. It was much better than the forest, even though it wasonly a deserted town.I judged myself here about 150 miles from the coast. Withthe exception of a Mbicho town near by, we were now surrounded on three sides by Fan villages, and shall make the acquaintance of these cannibals in a very short time.Mbondemo Man and Woman, showing manner of carrying Children and Burdens.CHAP. VII. MEETING OF THE FANS. 65-CHAPTER VII.A desperate Situation - - Fright at myappearance - A Fan Warrior - His Weapons - FetichesFamine Encounter with the Fan ―I am closely examined ―Appearance of the Male ·―- WomenGorilla-hunt - Signs of the Animal's presenceRoar Conduct -- My first Gorilla - Divisionof the Spoils Superstitions — Wandering Bakalai · Mournful Songs — ---Their Fear of Night — Cooking — Fan Town - --Cannibal Signs - Presentedto his cannibal Majesty -The King is scared at my appearance — Description of his Majesty — Mbene's Glory —The King in his War-dress — Arms of the Fan -- A grand Dance — The Music.NEXT day Mbene came, which gave me great relief, for he isa steadier and more influential man than his sons. He was exhausted from his travels, and when I told him we needed food,he immediately set off to a Fan village a few miles off for asupply. Unable to wait for his return, I started off with mymen to meet him, hoping perhaps to shoot something by theway. My hunger accelerated my movements, and pretty soon Ifound myself half a mile ahead of my companions and in sightof a chattering monkey, who dodged me whenever I took aim athim, and whom I vainly tried to get down off his perch on thehigh tree where he lived.After watching this animal for some time, I happened to lookdown before me, and beheld a sight which drove the monkey outof my mind in an instant. Judge of my astonishment whenbefore me I saw a Fan warrior, with his two wives behind him.I was at first alarmed, but immediately saw that all three werequaking with deadly terror. The man's shield shook and rattled,to such a degree was he frightened; his mouth stood openthe lips were fairly white; one of his three spears had fallen tothe ground, and the other two he held in a manner betokeningabject fear.The women had been carrying baskets on their heads, butthese had been thrown to the ground, and they stood in perfectsilence and terror looking at me.They all thought, it appeared afterwards, that I was a spiritwho had just come down out of the sky. As for me, my firstF66 MUTUAL EMBARRASSMENT. CHAP. VII.thought, when I took in the situation, was-Suppose these peoplegrow desperate with fear, then I may have a poisoned arrowlaunched at me. And if they got over their terror ere my companions arrived, then I was likely to have a spear sent throughme, unless I were quicker than my antagonist and shot him,which I by no means desired to do; for, aside from the hatredof unnecessary bloodshed, I should by such a course haveendangered my life among his countrymen.I smiled and tried to look pleasant, in order to reassure thema little; but this only made matters worse. They looked asthough upon the point of sinking to the ground.Fan Warrior.Then I heard the voices of my men behind coming up, andpresently I was safe, and the Fan people were relieved of theirterror. Miengai smiled to see it, and told the man he need notregard me as a spirit, for I was his father's white man, comefrom the seashore on purpose to visit the Fan. Then I gavethe women some strings of white beads, which did more thananything else to ease their fears.CHAP. VII. APPEARANCE OF THE CANNIBALS. 67On our return we found that Makinda had brought someplantains but no fowl. I had now been a week without tastingflesh, except only the wretched monkey we shot on the way, andfelt very much in need of something hearty.For the rest of the day we held levee in my house. Greatcrowds of Fan from the neighbouring villages came to see me.The men did not appear very much frightened, but the womenand children were excessively so. But all kept at a very respectable distance. One glance from me toward a woman orchild sufficed to make these run off.If I was not frightened, I was at least as much surprised by allI saw as the Fan could be. These fellows, who now for the firsttime saw a white man with straight hair, were to me an equalsurprise, for they are real, unmistakeable cannibals. And theywere, by long odds, the most remarkable people I had thus farseen in Africa. They were much lighter in shade than any ofthe coast tribes, strong, tall, well made, and evidently active;and they seemed to me to have a more intelligent look than isusual to the African unacquainted with white men.The men were almost naked. They had no cloth about themiddle, but used instead the soft inside bark of a tree, over whichin front, was suspended the skin of some wild-cat or tiger. Theyhad their teeth filed , which gives the face a ghastly and ferociouslook, and some had the teeth blackened besides. Their hair or" wool" was drawn out into long thin plaits; on the end of eachstiff plait were strung some white beads, or copper or iron rings.Some wore feather caps, but others wore long queues made oftheir own wool and a kind of tow, dyed black and mixed with it,and giving the wearer a most grotesque appearance.Over their shoulders was suspended the huge country knife,and in their hands were spears and the great shield of elephanthide, and about the necks and bodies of all were hung a varietyof fetiches and greegrees, which rattled as they walked.The Fan shield is made of the hide of an old elephant, andonly of that part which lies across the back. This, when driedand smoked, is hard and impenetrable as iron . The shield isabout three feet long by two and a half wide.Their fetiches consisted of fingers and tails of monkeys; ofhuman hair, skin, teeth, bones; of clay, old nails, copper chains,shells; feathers, claws, and skulls of birds; pieces of iron, copper,F 268 FAN WOMEN. CHAP. VII.or wood; seeds of plants; ashes of various substances; and Icannot tell what more. From the great variety and plenty ofthese objects on their persons, I suppose these Fan to be a verysuperstitious people.The women, who were even less dressed than the men, weremuch smaller than they, and, with the exception of the inhabitants of Fernando Po, who are called Boobies, I never sawsuch ugly women as these. These, too, had their teeth filed,and most had their bodies painted red, by means of a dyeobtained from the bar-wood. They carried their babies on theirbacks in a sling or rest made of some kind of tree-bark andfastened to the neck of the mother.Such were the strange people who now crowded about me,examining every part of my person and dress that I would allowto be touched, but especially wondering at my hair and my feet.The former they could not sufficiently admire. On my feet Ihad boots; and as my trowsers lay over these, they thought,naturally enough, that these boots were my veritable feet, andwondered greatly that my face should be of one colour and thefeet of another. I showed myself to as good advantage as Iknew how, and surprised them very much-as I wished to do--by shooting a couple of swallows on the wing in their presence.This was thought a wonderful feat. They all went off at fouro'clock, promising to return to-morrow and bring me some fowls.These Fan belong, I should think, to a different family of thenegro race from the coast natives, or indeed any tribes I haveseen before. Their foreheads do not seem so compressed; butit is curious that in many the head runs up into a kind of peakor sugar-loaf. This indicates a low scale of intelligence; butit must be said, to these people's credit, that they are in somethings much more ingenious than their neighbours. They extract iron from the ore, and show great ingenuity, with suchpoor implements as they have, in making their weapons, as theillustrations I give of those in my collection will show.The next day my men started for a gorilla- hunt. I saw themload their guns, and wondered why the poor cheap " trade ” gunsdo not burst at every discharge. They put in first four or fivefingers " high of coarse powder, and ram down on this four orfive pieces of iron-bar or rough broken iron, making the wholecharge eight to ten fingers high. But they are not great marks66CHAP. VII. IN THE JUNGLE. 69men, and my skill with the rifle often called out expressions ofwonder, and almost of superstitious fear from the best amongthem.I killed some birds to-day, but I spent the day chiefly in looking about the town and neighbourhood-really doing nothing.As I walked along a Fan woman gravely asked me why I didnot take off my clothes? She felt sure they must be a greathindrance to me, and if I would leave off these things I shouldbe able to walk more easily.The next day we went out all together for a gorilla-hunt.The country hereabouts is very rough, hilly, and denselycrowded; consequently, hunting is scarcely to be countedsport. But a couple of days of rest had refreshed me, and I wasanxious to be in at the death of a gorilla.We saw several gorilla-tracks, and about noon divided ourparty, in the hope of surrounding the resting- place of one whosetracks were very plain. I had scarce got away from my partythree hundred yards when I heard a report of a gun, then ofthree more, going off one after the other. Of course I ran backas fast as I could, and hoped to see a dead animal before me,but was once more disappointed. My Mbondemo fellows hadfired at a female, had wounded her, as I saw by the clots ofblood which marked her track, but she had made good herescape. We set out at once in pursuit; but these woods are sothick, so almost impenetrable, that pursuit of a wounded animalis not often successful. A man can only creep where the beastwould run.Night came upon us while we were still beating the bush, andit was determined to camp out and try our luck again on themorrow. Ofcourse, I was only too glad. We shot some monkeys and birds, built our camp, and, while the men roasted theirmonkey-meat over the coals, I held my birds before the blazeon a stick. Fortunately we had food enough, and of a goodkind, for next day.We started early, and pushed for the most dense and impenetrable part of the forest, in hopes to find the very home of thebeast I so much wished to shoot. Hour after hour we travelled,and yet no signs of gorilla. Only the everlasting little chatteringmonkeys—and not many of these-and occasionally birds. Infact, the forests of this part of Africa-as the reader has seen by70 THE ONSET OF A GORILLA. CHAP. VII.this time-are not so full of life as in some other parts to thesouth.Suddenly Miengai uttered a little cluck with his tongue, whichis the native's way of showing that something is stirring, andthat a sharp look-out is necessary. And presently I noticed,ahead of us seemingly, a noise as of some one breaking downbranches or twigs of trees.This was the gorilla, I knew at once, by the eager and satisfiedlooks of the men. They looked once more carefully at theirguns, to see if by any chance the powder had fallen out of thepans; I also examined mine, to make sure that all was right;and then we marched on cautiously.The singular noise of the breaking of tree- branches continued.We walked with the greatest care, making no noise at all. Thecountenances of the men showed that they thought themselvesengaged in a very serious undertaking; but we pushed on, untilfinally we thought we saw through the thick woods the movingof the branches and small trees which the great beast wastearing down, probably to get from them the berries and fruitshe lives on.Suddenly, as we were yet creeping along, in a silence whichmade a heavy breath seem loud and distinct, the woods were atonce filled with the tremendous barking roar of the gorilla.Then the underbrush swayed rapidly just ahead, and presentlybefore us stood an immense male gorilla. He had gone throughthe jungle on his all-fours; but when he saw our party he erectedhimself and looked us boldly in the face. He stood about adozen yards from us, and was a sight I think I shall never forget.Nearly six feet high (he proved four inches shorter), with immense body, huge chest, and great muscular arms, with fiercelyglaring large deep gray eyes, and a hellish expression of face,which seemed to me like some nightmare vision: thus stoodbefore us this king of the African forest.He was not afraid of us. He stood there, and beat his breastwith his huge fists till it resounded like an immense bass-drum,which is their mode of offering defiance; meantime giving ventto roar after roar.The roar of the gorilla is the most singular and awful noiseheard in these African woods. It begins with a sharp bark, likean angry dog, then glides into a deep bass roll, which literally

GORILLA MYFIRST .del EWhitneyCHAP. VII. MY FIRST GORILLA.71and closely resembles the roll of distant thunder along the sky,for which I have sometimes been tempted to take it where I didnot see the animal. So deep is it that it seems to proceed lessfrom the mouth and throat than from the deep chest and vastpaunch.His eyes began to flash fiercer fire as we stood motionless onthe defensive, and the crest of short hair which stands on hisforehead began to twitch rapidly up and down, while his powerful fangs were shown as he again sent forth a thunderous roar.And now truly he reminded me of nothing but some hellishdream creature-a being of that hideous order, half-man halfbeast, which we find pictured by old artists in some representations of the infernal regions. He advanced a few steps-thenstopped to utter that hideous roar again-advanced again, andfinally stopped when at a distance of about six yards from us.And here, just as he began another of his roars, beating hisbreast in rage, we fired, and killed him.With a groan which had something terribly human in it, andyet was full of brutishness, he fell forward on his face. Thebody shook convulsively for a few minutes, the limbs movedabout in a struggling way, and then all was quiet—death haddone its work, and I had leisure to examine the huge body. Itproved to be five feet eight inches high, and the muscular development of the arms and breast showed what immense strengthit had possessed.My men, though rejoicing at our luck, immediately began toquarrel about the apportionment of the meat-for they reallyeat this creature. I saw that they would come to blows presentlyif I did not interfere, and therefore said I would myself giveeach man his share, which satisfied all. As we were too tired toreturn to our camp of last night, we determined to camp hereon the spot, and accordingly soon had some shelters erected anddinner going on. Luckily, one of the fellows shot a deer justas we began to camp, and on its meat I feasted while my menate gorilla.I noticed that they very carefully saved the brain, and wastold that charms were made of this-charms of two kinds. Prepared in one way, the charm gave the wearer a strong hand forthe hunt, and in another it gave him success with women.This evening we had again gorilla stories-but all to the same72 BAKALAI MOURNERS. CHAP. VII.point already mentioned, that there are gorillas inhabited byhuman spirits.We returned to our deserted village next day, and found adivision of travelling Bakalai in possession. These people, withwhom fortunately I could speak, had lived on the Noya, somedistance from here. They were now moving, to be near someof their tribe. I asked why they left their former village, andlearned that one morning one of their men, while out bathingin the river, had been shot. Hereupon they were seized with apanic, believed the town attacked by witches, and at once resolved to abandon it and settle elsewhere. They had all theirhousehold goods with them-chests, cloth, brass kettles, washbasins, pans, &c. , as well as a great quantity of yams, plantains,and fowls.They were glad to get some tobacco from me, and I was gladto trade a little away for provisions.At sunset every one of them retired within doors. The children ceased to play, and all became quiet in the camp where justbefore had been so much life and bustle. Then suddenly aroseon the air one of those mournful, heart-piercing chants whichyou hear among all the tribes in this land-a wail whose burdenseems to be, " There is no hope. " It was a chant for their departed friends; and as they sang tears rolled down the cheeksof the women, fright marked their faces and cowed their spiritsfor they have a belief that at the sunset hour the evil spiritswalk abroad among them.I listened to try to gather the words of their chants; but therewas a very monotonous repetition of one idea -that of sorrow atthe departure of some one.Thus they sang:And so on."We chi noli lubella pe na beshe.Oh, you will never speak to us any more,We cannot see your face any more;You will never walk with us again,You will never settle our palavers for us."I thanked God that I was not a native African. These poorpeople lead dreadful and dreary lives. Not only have they tofear their enemies among neighbouring tribes, as well as thevarious accidents to which a savage life is especially liable, suchCHAP. VII. BAKALAI COOKERY. 73as starvation, the attacks of wild beasts, &c. , but their wholelives are saddened and embittered by the fears of evil spirits,witchcraft, and other kindred superstitions under which theylabour.After they had chanted for half-an-hour, they came over tomy house with various fowls and other food to buy " white man'stobacco " to cheer them on their journey. I was very glad totrade with them, and bought fowls, plantains, sugarcane, andpineapples. In Western Africa, men, women, and children, allsmoke. They never chew, unless they learn the practice of thewhites; but smoking seems to be a very grateful occupation tothem.To-night I found Miengai and Makinda, the unworthy sons ofKing Mbene, stealing my plantains. They had got off once before, so this time I pitched into them with my fists, and gavethem as much punishment as I thought would answer them asa warning.The next morning all was bustle in camp. The Bakalai werecooking a meal before setting out on their travels. It is astonishing to see the neatness with which these savages preparetheir food. I watched some women engaged in boiling plantains, which form the bread of all this region. One built abright fire between two stones. The others peeled the plantains, then carefully washed them-just as a clean white cookwould—and, cutting them in several pieces, put them in theearthen pot; this was then half filled with water, covered overwith leaves, over which were placed the banana peelings, andthen the pot was placed on the stones to boil. Meat they hadnot, but roasted a few ground-nuts instead; but the boiled plantains they ate with great quantities of Cayenne pepper.Next day we had promised to go among the Fans to live, soto-day we went hunting again. I had no padlock to my house,and was in a quandary how to leave what would certainly bestolen-all my provisions. Fortunately, I bethought me ofsomesealing-wax, and went to work to seal up my door with pieces oftwine, to the great amusem*nt of the rascally Miengai, who sawhis game baulked, but could not help laughing. This evening,as I sat in my house, tired , I perceived a smell of burning meat.Stealing out, I found my fellows sitting about a fire and roastingan animal which I could not recognize. Their duty is to bring74 THE KING OF THE CANNIBALS. CHAP. VII.me all they kill, but they evidently did not. They seemed muchashamed, and I told them they need not come to me for morepowder.The next morning we moved off for the Fan village, and nowI had the opportunity to satisfy myself as to a matter I hadcherished some doubt on before, namely, the cannibal practicesof these people. I was satisfied but too soon. As we enteredthe town I perceived some bloody remains which looked to meto be human; but I passed on, still incredulous. Presently wepassed a woman who solved all doubt. She bore with her apiece of the thigh of a human body, just as we should go tomarket and carry thence a roast or steak.The whole village was much excited, and the women and children greatly scared at my presence. All fled into the houses aswe passed through what appeared the main street-a long lane —in which I saw here and there human bones lying about.At last we arrived at the palaver-house. Here we were leftalone for a while, though we heard great shoutings going on ata little distance. I was told by one of them afterwards that theyhad been busy dividing the body of a dead man, and that therewas not enough for all. The head, I am told, is a royalty, beingsaved for the king.Presently they flocked in, and before long we were presentedto the king. This personage was a ferocious looking fellow,whose body, naked with exception of the usual cloth about themiddle, made of the bark of a tree, was painted red, and whoseface, chest, stomach, and back, were tattooed in a rude buteffective manner. He was covered with charms, and was fullyarmed, as were all the Fans who now crowded the house tosee me.veryI do not knowif the king had given himself a few extra horridtouches to impress me; but if so, he missed his mark, for I tookcare to retain a look of perfect impassiveness.All the Fans present wore queues, but the queueof Ndiayaithe king was the biggest of all, and terminated in two tails, inwhich were strung brass rings, while the top was ornamentedwith white beads. Brass anklets jingled as he walked. Thefront of his middle-cloth was a fine piece of tiger- skin. Hisbeard was plaited in several plaits, which also contained whitebeads, and stuck out stiffly from the face. His teeth were filedGRAND RECEPTION BYTHE CANNIBALS .

CHAP. VII. THE CANNIBAL TOWN. 75sharp, and coloured black, so that the mouth of this old cannibal,when he opened it, put me uncommonly in mind of a tomb.The queen, who accompanied her lord, and who was decidedlythe ugliest woman I ever saw, and very old, was called Mashumba. She was nearly naked, her only article of dress being astrip of the Fan cloth, dyed red, and about four inches wide. Herentire body was tattooed in the most fanciful manner; her skin,from long exposure, had become rough and knotty. She woretwo enormous iron anklets-iron being a very precious metalwith the Fan-and had in her ears a pair of copper ear-ringstwo inches in diameter, and very heavy. These had so weigheddown the lobes of her ears that I could have put my little fingereasily into the holes through which the rings were run.I think the king was a little shaken at sight of me. He hadbeen originally much averse to the interview, from a belief thathe would die in three days after seeing me. Finally Mbene persuaded him.Mbene was in his glory. He had charge of a white man, andamong a people whom he himself feared, but who he saw feared,in turn, me, whom he knew very well. He told the Fan kingthat he had brought him a spirit, who had come many thousandsof miles across the big water to see the Fans.The king replied that this was well, and sent off his queen-theugly one--to prepare me a house. And after a few more civilities,but very little formality of any kind, his majesty withdrew.Presently I was conducted to my house. The village was anew one, and consisted mostly of a single street about 800 yardslong, on which were built the houses. The latter were small,being only eight or ten feet long, five or six wide, and four orfive in height, with slanting roofs. They were made of bark,and the roofs were of a kind of matting made of the leaves of apalm-tree. The doors run up to the eaves, about four feet high,and there were no windows. In these houses they cook, eat,sleep, and keep their store of provisions, the chief of which isthe smoked game and smoked human flesh, hung up to therafters.All the Fan villages are strongly fenced or palisadoed, andby night they keep a careful watch. They have also a littlenative dog, whose sharp bark is the signal of some one approaching from without. In the villages they are neat and76 SIGNS OF CANNIBALISM. CHAP. VII.clean, the street being swept, and all garbage-except, indeed,the well-picked bones of their human subjects-is thrown out.After visiting the house assigned me, I was taken through thetown, where I saw more dreadful signs of cannibalism in pilesof human bones, mixed up with other offal, thrown at the sidesof several houses. I find that the men, though viewing me withgreat curiosity, are not any longer afraid of me, and even thewomen stand while I approach them. They are a more manlyand courageous race than the tribes towards the coast.Then we returned to the king, where we were presented tohis four wives, who showed uncommon dislike to my presence.Mbene is in great glee, as wherever he goes he is surroundedwith Fan fellows, who praise him for being the friend of thespirit. Indeed, he has always been proud of this, and tells now,with no little pleasure, to the astonished Fan, that two beforeme have visited him, which is a fact.Towards evening we retired to our houses. I called the kinginto mine, and gave him a large bunch of white beads, a lookingglass, a file, fire-steel, and some gun-flints. His face was fairlyilluminated with joy, and he took his leave, highly pleased.Presently afterwards one of the queens brought me a basket fullof bananas. Some of these were already cooked, and these Iat once refused, having a horrid loathing of the flesh-pots ofthese people. I stated at once my fixed purpose to have allcooking done for me in my own kettles, and mean to be involved in no man-eating—even at second- hand.Shortly after sunset all became silent in the village, andeverybody seemed inclined to go to sleep. I barred my door aswell as I could with my chest, and lying down on the dreadfulbed which was provided for me, placed my gun by my sideready for use. For though they be ever so friendly, I cannotget it out of my head that these people not only kill people, buteat them, and that some gastronomic caprice might tempt themto have me for a dinner while I am among them.I said dreadful bed. It was a frame of bamboos, each aboutan inch in diameter. Of course it was rough; and I found mybones aching so in the morning, that I might as well have slepton a nail-heap or on a pile of cannon- balls. But I slept, andwas not interrupted, though, on going out next morning, I sawa pile of ribs, leg and arm bones, and skulls (human) piled up at

NDIAYAI, KING OF THE FANS.CHAP. VII. ARMS OF THE CANNIBALS. 77the back of my house, which looked horrid enough to me. Infact, symptoms of cannibalism stare me in the face wherever Igo, and I can no longer doubt.I had told the king that I should like to see him dressed inwar array, so this morning ( September 1st) he called upon mewith his queen and a cortége of his chiefs. The body was againpainted red; he wore a shield of elephant's hide, and was armedfor the offensive with three spears and a little bag of poisonedarrows. His head was splendidly decorated with the redfeathers of a touracaw (corythaix); his teeth were paintedvery black; and his whole body was covered with greegreesand fetiches, to protect him from death by spears, guns, andwitches.Everybody admired the head-dress of Mashumba, the queen.It was a cap of white beads. These beads form the most desired ornaments of the blacks, and, with tobacco and powder,are the best trade a traveller can take into the interior.Ndiayai remarked that, while surrounded by his warriors, hefeared nothing, and spoke of the bravery of his people; and Iam ready to believe them an unusually warlike tribe. Theypointed out one man to me who bore the name of " Leopard "because of his bravery. He had killed many of their enemies,and also many elephants.Fan Bowman.They have a great diversity of arms. Among the crowd today I saw men armed with cross-bows, from which are shoteither iron-headed arrows, or the little, insignificant- looking,78 POISONED ARROWS. CHAP. VII.These are only but really most deadly, poison-tipped arrows.slender, harmless reeds, a foot long, whose sharpened ends aredipped into a deadly vegetable poison which these people knowhow to make. The arrows are so light that they would blowaway if simply laid in the groove of the bow. To prevent this,they use a kind of sticky gum, a lump of which is kept on theunder side of the bow, and with which a small spot in the grooveis lightly rubbed. The handle of the bow is ingeniously split,and by a little peg, which acts as a trigger, the bow-string isdisengaged, and, as the spring is very strong, sends the arrow toa great distance, and, light as it is, with great force. But themerest puncture kills inevitably. They are good marksmenwith their bows, which require great strength to bend. Theyhave to sit on their haunches, and apply both feet to the middleof the bow, while they pull with all their strength on the stringto bend it back.The larger arrows have an iron head, something like thesharp barbs of a harpoon. These are used forhunting wild beasts, and are about two feetlong. But the more deadly weapon is thethe little insignificant stick of bamboo, notmore than twelve inches long, and simplysharpened at one end. This is the famedpoison-arrow-a missile which bears death.wherever it touches, if only it pricks apin's-point of blood. The poison is made ofthe juices of a plant which was not shown me.They dip the sharp ends of the arrows severaltimes in this sap, and let it get thoroughlydried into the wood. It gives the point a redcolour. The arrows are very carefully keptin a little bag, made neatly of the skin ofsome wild animal. They are much dreadedamong the tribes about here, as they can bethrown or projected with such power as totake effect at a distance of fifteen yards, andwith such velocity that you cannot see themat all till they are spent. This I have oftenThere is no cure for a wound from one ofthese harmless-looking little sticks-death follows in a veryshort time.Poisoned Arrows.proved myself.CHAP. VII. TOMAHAWK. 79Some ofthe Fans bore on their shoulders the terrible war-axefigured below, one blow of which quite suffices to split ahuman skull. Some of these axes, as well as their spears andother iron-work, were beautifully ornamented with scroll-work,and wrought in graceful lines and curves which spoke well fortheir artisans.The war-knife, which hangs by the side, is a terrible weaponfor a hand-to-hand conflict, and, as they explained to me, isdesigned to thrust through the enemy's body; they are aboutthree feet long. There is another huge knife also worn by someof the men now in the crowd before me. This is over a footlong, by about eight inches wide, and is used to cut down throughthe shoulders of an adversary. It must do tremendous execution.+1. Tomahawk.Fan Knife and Axes.2. Knife. 3. Sheath. 4. War-axe.Then there is a very singular pointed axe, which is thrownfrom a distance, as American Indians are said to use the tomahawk. The figure (1) will give the reader an idea of the curiousshape of this weapon. When thrown it strikes with the pointdown, and inflicts a terrible wound. They use it with greatdexterity. The object aimed at with this axe is the head. The80 GRAND CELEBRATION. CHAP. VII.point penetrates to the brain, and kills the victim immediately;and then the round edge of the axe is used to cut the head off,which is borne off by the victor as a trophy.The spears, which are six to seven feet in length, are thrownby the natives with great force, and with an accuracy of aimwhich never ceased to surprise me. They make the long slenderrod fairly whistle through the air. Most of them can throw aspear effectively to the distance of from twenty to thirty yards.Most of the knives and axes were ingeniously sheathed incovers made of snake-skins, or human skin taken from somevictim in battle. Many of these sheaths are ingeniously made,and are slung round the neck by cords, which permit theweapon to hang at the side out of the wearer's way.Though so warlike, they have no armour. In fact, theirworking in iron is as yet too rude for such a luxury. The onlyweapon of defence is the huge shield of elephant's hide; butthis is even bullet- proof; and as it is very large-three and ahalf feet long by two and a half broad-it suffices to cover thewhole body.Besides their weapons, many of the men wore a smaller knife—but also rather unwieldy-which served the various offices ofa jack-knife, a hatchet, and a table-knife. But, though rude inshape, they used it with great dexterity.It was a grand sight to see so many stalwart, martial, fiercelooking fellows, fully armed and ready for any desperate foray,gathered in one assemblage. Finer-looking men I never saw;and I could well believe them brave, did not the completeness oftheir armoury prove that war is a favourite pastime with them.In fact, they are dreaded by all their neighbours, and, if theywere only animated by the spirit of conquest, would soon makeshort work of the tribes between them and the coast.To-day several hundred Fans from the surrounding villagescame in to see me. Okolo, a great king among them, gave mehis knife, saying it had already killed a man. To-night there isa great dance in honour of the arrival of a spirit (myself) amongthem. This dance was the wildest scene I ever saw. Everybody was there; and I, in whose honour the affair was, had toassist by my presence. The only music was that of a rudedrum-an instrument made of a certain kind of wood, and ofdeer or goat skins. The cylinder was about four feet long, andFAN SHIELD AND SPEARS.

CHAP. VII. MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. 81ten inches in diameter at one end, but only seven at the other.The wood was hollowed out quite thin, and the skin stretchedover tightly. To beat it the drummer held it slantingly betweenhis legs, and with two sticks beat furiously upon the upper,which was the larger end of the cylinder.This music was accompanied with singing, which was lessmelodious even than the drumming. As for the dancing, it wasan indescribable mixture of wildness and indecency.One of the consequences of the dance is that we are to havea great elephant-hunt, and women are busied in cooking food,and men in preparing arms for this great game. The few gunsowned by the Fans have been carefully furbished up, and Ihave prepared my two for action, expecting great things fromsuch desperate hunters as these.Fan Drum and HandjaBenekG82 ELEPHANT- TRAPS. CHAP. VIII.-CHAPTER VIII.The grand Hunt - Fan Mode of capturing Elephants - A pitched BattleMan killed by an Elephant - Grace before Meat among the Fan - Theuse of a dead Hunter - Habits of the Elephant - Hanou, or Elephant-trap·Elephant Meat — Condition of Women - Marriage Ceremonies -A FanWedding - Musical Instrument - Corpse brought in to be eaten - Human Flesh prized Stories of Fan Cannibalism - Encroachments westward ofthe Fans - Their Origin —Colour — Tattooing -Trade -Iron- smelting—Fan Blacksmiths Bellows and other Tools - Pottery - AgricultureFood - Slavery - The Oshebo - Beyond - Superstitions - Sorcery —Charms -- Idols.----—ABOUT five hundred men assembled for the hunt on the morningof September 4th. They were divided into different parties,each of which set out for the part of the forest assigned it. Meantime Ndiayai and I went together to the general rendezvous, awalk of about six hours through the woody and mountainouscountry which I have already described. The march was conducted in great silence, and every care was taken not to alarmany game which might be near our track. Arrived at ourhalting-place, we immediately began to build our camp, and hadhardly got our shelters constructed when it began to rain.The next morning we set out for the hunting- ground. Andhere a most remarkable sight presented itself. The elephant,like most other great beasts, has no regular walk or path, butstrays somewhat at random through the woods in search of food;but it is his habit, when pleased with a neighbourhood, to remainthere for a considerable time, nor let any small matter drive himaway. Now of this the Fan take advantage. The forests hereare full of rough, strong, climbing-plants, which you will seerunning up to the tops of the tallest trees. These vines theytear down, and with them ingeniously, but with much labour,construct a kind of huge fence or obstruction, not sufficient tohold the elephant, but quite strong enough to check him in hisflight and entangle him in the meshes till the hunters can havetime to kill him. Once caught, they quietly surround the hugebeast, and put an end to his struggles by incessant discharges oftheir spears or guns.

ELEPHANT BATTUE AMONG THE FANS .CHAP. VIII.66MAN KILLED BY AN ELEPHANT. 38Presently a kind of hunting-horn was sounded, and the chasebegan. Parties were stationed at different parts of the barrier ortangle," as we will call it, which had an astonishing extent, andmust have cost much toil to make. Others stole through thewoods in silence and looked for their prey.When they find an elephant they approach very carefully.The object is to scare him and make him run toward some partof the barrier-generally not far off. To accomplish this, theyoften crawled at their full length along the ground, just likesnakes, and with astonishing swiftness.The first idea of the animal is flight. He rushes ahead almostblindly, but is brought up by the barrier of vines. Enraged,and still more terrified, he tears everything with his trunkand feet. But in vain; the tough vines, nowhere fastened, giveto every blow, and the more he labours, the more fatally he isheld.Meantime, at the first rush of the elephant the natives crowdround; and while he is struggling in their toils they are plyinghim with spears, often from trees, till the poor wounded beastlooks like a huge porcupine. This spearing does not cease tillthey have killed their prey.To-day we killed four elephants in this way. It was quite anexciting time to the natives, though I confess of less interest tome after I had seen the first killed. It seemed monotonous andsomewhat unfair; nevertheless, there is sufficient danger aboutit. The elephants about here have the reputation of holdingman in slight fear, and the approach and attack are work forthe greatest courage and presence of mind. Even then fatalaccidents occur. To-day a man was killed. I was not presentat the accident, but he seems to have lost his presence of mind,and when the elephant charged with great fury at a crowd ofassailants, he was caught, and instantly trampled under foot.When his companions saw that he was dead, they in turn grewfurious, and actually pursued the elephant, which was makingits escape, charged upon it, and so beset it with spears, that in afew minutes it was dead. I never saw men so excited withrage. They began even to cut the dead animal to pieces forrevenge.They have certain precautionary rules for these hunts, whichshow that they understand the animal. For instance, they sayG 284 A CANNIBAL " GRACE BEFORE MEAT." CHAP. VIII.you must never approach an elephant but from behind, as hecannot turn very fast, and you have time to make your escapeafter firing. Great care is necessary that the vines, which areso fatal to the elephant, do not also catch his pursuers. I wastold that it was not unfrequent for a man to be thus hopelesslyentangled, and then deliberately killed by the elephant. Oftenit becomes necessary for the hunters to retreat, and, as they canscarce outrun the great heavy animal, at such times all handstake refuge in trees, which they climb with astonishing swiftness—almost like monkeys. Even then, however, a man must selecta stout tree; and Ndiayai told me of a case where a smallsapling was pulled down by an enraged beast, and the occupanthad a narrow escape for his life.Nowfollowed the rites with which they offer thanks for a goodday's hunt to the idol who, in their belief, guides their fortunes.Without these preliminary rites, no meat is touched.First comes the whole party and dances around the elephant,while the medicine or greegree men cut off a portion- invariablyfrom one of the hind legs —of each elephant. This was the meatintended for an offering to the idol. This meat was put into baskets, afterward to be cooked under the direct superintendence ofthe greegree man and the men who killed the particular animal.Finally, the whole party danced about the baskets and sungsongs to their idol, begging for another such good hunt as thisone.The king was of opinion that if this ceremony were neglectedthey would get nothing next time; but thought their songs anddances would please the idol, who would give them even moreelephants in future.The sacrificial meats are taken into the woods, where it is probable they regale some panther-if the shrewd medicine-mandoes not himself come and eat them. And the body of the poorfellow who was killed to-day is, I am told, to be sent to anotherFan village, to be sold and eaten. This seems the proper andusual end of the Fans.The elephants were cut up the next day, and the meat wasall hung up to be smoked, which these natives understand howto do.The persistence with which the elephant in this part of thecountry sticks to a spot which affords him such leaves as he bestCHAP. VIII. ELEPHANT-MEAT. 85likes, is very remarkable. It is in part, probably, from a scarcityof his favourite trees. I have seen them remain for days in theimmediate vicinity of such a set of fences as I have described,where the natives, of course, each day killed some. Sometimes,too, they will almost enter the towns, pulling down the small trees,and breaking branches offthe larger, to get the food which best suitstheir taste. Often, however, they leave a neighbourhood at thefirst attack, when the natives follow and make new fences.They have another way to kill elephants, which I saw used inthe woods this day, and have often seen since. They discover awalk or path through which it is likely that a herd or singleanimal will soon pass. Then they take a piece of very heavywood, which the Bakalai call hanou, and trice it up into a hightree, where it hangs, with a sharp point, armed with iron, pointing downward. It is suspended by a rope, which is so arrangedthat the instant the elephant touches it—which he cannot helpdoing if he passes under the hanou-it is loosed, and falls withtremendous force on to his back, the iron point wounding him,and the heavy weight generally breaking his spine.It is generally supposed that the elephant is found only in theplains; but, from various observations in this region, I concludethat the animal also frequents the mountains and rough highcountry. Their tracks are frequently met with among themountains, and several times I have scarcely been able to believemy eyes when I saw plainly the footprints of the huge animal inspots which it could only have attained by the ascent of almostprecipitous hill-sides-ascents which we found it difficult to makeourselves.The elephant-meat, of which the Fan seem to be very fond,and which they have been cooking and smoking for three days,is the toughest and most disagreeable meat I ever tasted.cannot explain its taste, because we have no flesh which tasteslike it; but it seems full of muscular fibre or gristle, and when ithas been boiled for two days, twelve hours each day, it is stilltough. The flavour is not unpleasant; but, though I have triedat different times to accustom myself to it, I found only that mydisgust grew greater.It rained all the time we were in the bush, which made merather glad when the time came for our return to the town, whereI once more got on dry clothes, and slept in a dry place.86 MARRIAGE CUSTOMS. CHAP. VIII.As we were returning, I learned from the king a very curiousparticular of the Fan customs, of which I did not suspect any ofthese West African tribes. It appears that they never marrytheir girls before they have arrived at the age of puberty, andthat they have a care for the chastity of their young women. Inmost of the tribes it is common for children of three or fouryears to be married to men grown-who, of course, have thenceforth a claim on all the relatives of this baby-wife-and it is notat all infrequent to find a female child betrothed at birth. I hadalready remarked, what I suppose is the natural result of the Fancustom, that these people have more children by far than eitherthe Shekiani, Bakalai, Mbicho, Mbondemo, Mbousha, or any ofthe interior tribes I have seen north of the equator. Those tribesare gradually but surely disappearing, but the Fans seem likelyto survive.The Fan marriage ceremonies are very rude, but are an occasion of great jollity. Of course, the husband has to buy his wife,and the shrewd father makes a bargain with him as well as hecan, putting on a great price if the man's love is very ardent; sothat I was told it sometimes took years before a man could buyand marry his wife. If trade with the seashore were better itwould not be so hard; but as " trade " is the most precious thing,"trade goods " are always expected as payment for a wife.Hence their bravery as hunters; for ivory is one of the chiefarticles they send down to the coast; and though, after a huntlike that before related, the meat is shared, the ivory belongs tothose who killed the animal, who have, however, to divide theproceeds with their immediate relatives. Copper and brass rings,white beads, and the copper pans called neptunes on the coast,are the chief articles of trade which are a legal tender for a wifeamong the Fans.When a wedding is in prospect the friends of the happycouple spend many days in obtaining and laying in great storesof provisions-chiefly smoked elephant-meat and palm-wine.They engage hunters to keep up the supply, and accumulateenough to feed the great numbers who are expected to come.When all is ready, the whole town assembles, and, without anyceremony, but merely as a public sale, as it were, the fatherhands his daughter to her husband, who has generally alreadypaid her price.CHAP. VIII. FAN MUSIC. 87The " happy pair " are, of course, dressed finely for the occasion. The bridegroom is attired in a feather head-dress ofglowing colours; his body is oiled; his teeth are black andpolished as ebony; his huge knife hangs at his side; and if hecan kill a leopard or panther, or other rare animal, its skin iswrapped about his middle in a graceful way. The bride is verysimply dressed, or rather she is (like all the Fan women) notdressed at all. But for this occasion she is ornamented with asmany bracelets as she can get, of brass or copper, and wears herwoolly locks full of white beads.When all are assembled, and the bride is handed over to herlord, a general jollification ensues, which lasts sometimes formany days. They eat elephant meat, get tipsy on palm-wine,dance, sing, and seem to enjoy themselves very much, until atlast wine grows scarce, and the crowd returns to an involuntarysobriety.Their dances I have already alluded to, as well as the drumwhich figures on such occasions, and which is the more highlyvalued the greater noise it makes. But I found them also playing upon an instrument of another kind, and of so ingenious aconstruction that it is not altogether unworthy of more civilizedpeople. This, which they call the handja, consists of a lightreed frame, 3 feet long by 1 broad, into which are set and securely fastened a set of hollow gourds covered by strips of a hardThe Handja.red wood found in the forests. Each of these cylinders is of adifferent size, and all are so graduated that the set form a regularseries of notes. A handja generally contains seven.The per-88 CANNIBAL PRACTICES. CHAP. VIII.former sits down, lays the frame across his knees, and strikes thestrips lightly with a stick. There are two sticks, one hard, theother soft, and the principle is the same on which music hasbeen produced in France from a series of glasses. The tone isvery clear and good; and though their tunes are very rude, theycan play them with considerable skill. Each gourd has a littlehole on the side, covered with the skin of a spider.While I was talking to the king to- day (9th) , some Fansbrought in a dead body which they had bought in a neighbouringtown, and which was now to be divided. I could see that theman had died of some disease. I confess I could not bear tostay for the cutting up of the body, but retreated when all wasready. It made me sick all over. I remained till the infernalscene was about to begin, and then retreated. Afterwards Icould hear them from my house growing noisy over the division.Eating the bodies of persons who have died of sickness is aform of cannibalism of which I had never heard among anypeople, so that I determined to inquire if it were indeed ageneral custom among the Fans, or merely an exceptional freak.They spoke without embarrassment about the whole matter, andI was informed that they constantly buy the dead of the Oshebatribe, who, in return, buy theirs. They also buy the dead ofother families in their own tribes, and, besides this, get thebodies of a great many slaves from the Mbichos and Mbondemos,for which they readily give ivory, at the rate of a small tusk fora body.AUntil to-day I never could believe two stories -both wellauthenticated, but seeming quite impossible to anyone unacquainted with this people-which are told of them on theGaboon. A party of Fans who came down to the seashoreonce actually stole a freshly-buried body from the cemetery,and cooked it and ate it among them; and at another time aparty conveyed a body into the woods, cut it up, and smoked theflesh, which they carried away with them. The circ*mstancesmade a great fuss among the Mpongwe, and even the missionaries heard of it, for it happened at a village not far fromthe missionary grounds, but I never credited the stories tillnow, though the facts were well authenticated by witnesses. *

• These stories seem so incredible, and even the fact that these people

actually buy and eat the corpses of their neighbours resting as it does uponCHAP. VIII. ENCROACHMENTS OF THE FANS. 89In fact, the Fans seem regular ghouls, only they practise theirhorrid custom unblushingly and in open day, and have no shameabout it. I have seen here knives covered with human skin,which their owners valued very highly.To-day the queen brought me some boiled plantain, whichlooked very nice; but the fear lest she should have cooked it insome pot where a man had been cooked before—which was mostlikely the case-made me unable to eat it. On these journeysI have fortunately taken with me sufficient pots to do my owncooking.They are the finest, bravest-looking set of negroes I have seenin the interior, and eating human flesh seems to agree with them,though I afterwards saw other Fan tribes whose members hadnot the fine air of these mountaineers. As everywhere else,location seems to have much to do with it. These were livingamong the mountains, and had all the appearance of hardymountaineers.The strangest thing about the Fans (next to their hideouscannibalism) is their constant encroachments upon the landwestward. Year by year tribes of Fan are found nearer theseashore; town after town is being settled by them on thebanks of the Gaboon; and in the country between the Gaboonand the Moondah they have come down to within a few miles ofPoint Obendo. In fact they seem a stirring race, and moreenterprising than the Bakalai, Mbondemo, Mbicho, and eventhe Mpongwe; and I think will leave these gradually behindand take possession themselves of the whole line of seashorewhen they may degenerate, though it is to be hoped they willnot.It has been supposed that these Fans are, in fact, the Giaghior Jaga, who formerly invaded the kingdom of Congo, and whoseem to have been much such a people . The fact is, however,that in my later journeys to the head-waters of the Nazareth,and into the interior, south of the present location of the Fans,I could find no tribes who knew anything of such a people.my statement alone -has excited so much evident disbelief among friendsin this country to whom I have mentioned this custom, that I am very gladto be able to avail myself of the concurrent testimony of a friend, the Rev. Mr.Walker, of the Gaboon mission, who authorises me to say that he vouches for the entire truth of the two stories above related .90 IRON-WORKS. CHAP. VIII.Now the migration of the Fans is so slow a process that, whichever way they move, it is impossible they should not be remembered by the tribes among whose villages they have scatteredtheir own; and were they, indeed, the Jaga of the south, I musthave come on their traces somewhere. Moreover, all the Fans,when asked whence they came, point to the north-east. Nomatter how many different men or villages you put this questionto, the answer is always the same.The Fans are in colour dark brown rather than black, buthave curly or woolly hair. They are lighter in colour than theBakalai, Shekiani, and other surrounding tribes. They tattoothemselves more than any of the other tribes I have met northof the equator, but not so much as some to the south. The menare less disfigured in this way than the women, who take greatpride in having their breasts and abdomen entirely covered withthe blue lines and curves. Their cheeks also are fully markedin various figures, and this, with the immense copper and ironrings which weigh down the lobes of their ears, gives them ahideous appearance.They have considerable ingenuity in manufacturing iron.The articles of trade which they wish for most seem to be whitebeads-used for ornaments everywhere in this part of Africaand vessels of copper and brass. The " neptune "—a plate ofyellow copper, which has long been one of the standard articlesof trade imported hither by the merchants, and which is foundvery far in the interior-the Fans cut up, and it seems to passas a kind of medium of exchange.Iron ore is found in considerable quantities through the Fancountry cropping out at the surface. They do not dig into theground for it, but gather what lies about. To get the iron theybuild a huge pile of wood, heap on this a considerable quantityof the ore broken up, then comes more wood, and then fire isapplied to the whole. As it burns away, wood is thrown oncontinually, till at last they perceive, by certain signs, that theyhave made the iron fluid. All is then permitted to cool, andthey have now cast iron. To make this malleable and give ittemper, they put it through a most tedious serious of heatingsand hammerings, till at last they turn out a very superior articleof iron and steel, much better than that which is brought tothem from Europe. It is a fact that, to make their best knivesCHAP. VIII. A CANNIBAL SMITHY. 91and arrow-heads, they will not use the European or Americaniron, but prefer their own. And many of their knives andswords are really very finely made, and, for a rude race, beautifully ornamented by scroll-work on the blades.As blacksmiths, they very far surpass all the tribes of this region who have not come in contact with the whites. Their warlike habits have made iron a most necessary article to them;and though their tools are very simple, their patience is great,and, as the reader will perceive from the pictures of their arms,they produce some very neat workmanship.The forge is set up anywhere where a fire can be built. Theyhave invented a singular bellows, composed of two short, hollowedFan Blacksmiths.cylinders of wood, surmounted by skins accurately fitted on,and having an appropriate valve and a wooden handle. Thebellows-man sits down, and moves these coverings up and downwith great rapidity, and the air is led through small woodenpipes into an iron joint which emerges in the fire.The anvil is a solid piece of iron of the shape seen in theillustration. The sharp end is stuck into the ground, and the92 POTTERY. CHAP. VIII.blacksmith sits alongside of his anvil and beats the iron with asingular hammer, which is simply a piece of iron weighing fromthree to six pounds, and in shape a truncated cone. It has nohandle, but is held by the smaller end, and, of course, theblows require much more strength. It is a little curious that,with all their ingenuity, they should not have discovered sosimple a thing as a handle for a hammer.Time is of no value to a Fan, and the careful blacksmithspends often many days and even weeks over the manufactureof a small knife, while weeks and months are used to turn out afinished war- knife, spear, or brain-hatchet. The small, graceful,and often intricate lines with which the surfaces of all their bestweapons are very beautifully ornamented, are all made by thehand and a chisel-like instrument, struck with the hammer.They evince a correct eye, and a good deal of artistic taste.They have also some skill in forming pottery, though theonly objects of clay they use are the cooking- pot and the pipe.The former is in shape much like our common iron cooking- pot.It is remarkable chiefly for the very regular shape they give itmerely by hand, for of the lathe they are, of course, ignorant.When the clay is moulded it is set in the sun to dry, and1. Cooking-pot.Fan Pottery.2. Water-jar. 3. Palm-wine Bottle.afterwards thoroughly baked in the fire. Pipes are madein the same way, but the stems are always of wood. Many ofthe Fan had iron pipes, which they seemed to prefer to those ofclay.Water is carried or kept in gourds, and in jugs made of aCHAP. VIII. AGRICULTURE. 93kind of reed tightly woven and afterward coated with a kind ofgum. This gum is first softened in the fire, and then thicklylaid over the outside of the vessel. When completed, it formsdaFan Pipes.a durable, water-tight vessel; but it is necessary, before usingit, to keep it standing in water for a fortnight, to take away thedisagreeable taste of the gum.They smoke leaves which looked to me like a kind of wildtobacco, and which seem to grow plentifully here.The meat of the elephant is their chief subsistence, while theivory is their only export article, and, therefore, very importantto them, as thereby they get their brass, copper, kettles, lookingglasses, flints, fire-steels, and beads, which have become almostnecessities to them. Of all these, however, they set the greatestvalue on copper and brass.Their agricultural operations are very rude, and differ butlittle from those of the surrounding tribes. Like them, theycut down the trees and brush to make a clearing, burn everything that is cut down, and then plant their crop in the clearedspace. The only agricultural instrument they have is a kind ofheavy knife or cutlass, which serves in place of an axe to cutdown trees, and for many other purposes, such as digging theholes in which they plant their manioc or plantains.Their staple food is the manioc, a very useful plant, becauseit yields a large return, and is more substantial food than theplantain. It is cultivated by cuttings; and one little stem,stuck carelessly into the ground in their manner, produces ina season two or three large roots the size of a yam. Theyalso boil the leaves and eat them, and they make excellent"greens."Besides manioc they have plantains, two or three kinds ofyams, splendid sugarcane, and squashes, all of which they94 THE OSHEBAS. CHAP. VIII.cultivate with considerable success; but the manioc is thefavourite. Enormous quantities of squashes are raised, chieflyfor the seeds, which, when pounded and prepared as they knowhow to do, are much prized by them, and by me too.At a certain season, when the squash is ripe, their villages seem coveredwith the seeds, which everybody spreads out to dry. Whendried, they are packed in leaves and placed over the fireplacesin the smoke, to keep off an insect which also likes them. Theprocess of preparation is very tedious. A portion of seeds isboiled, and each seed is divested of its skin. Then the mass ofpulp is put into a rude wooden mortar and pounded, a vegetableoil being mixed with it. When all is well mixed, a portion isfinally cooked over a charcoal fire, either in an earthen pot or ina plantain leaf. It is then very sweet, and I think nourishing,and certainly quite pleasant.Of the mortars above mentioned every Fan family possesses atleast one. They are of wood, and are in fact troughs, being twofeet long by two or three inches deep and eight wide. Besidesthese, every village owns and uses in common two or threeimmense mortars (also of wood), which are needed to pulverizethe manioc-root. When it is reduced to flour it is made intolittle cakes, which may be kept for several days. They are alsovery fond of red pepper, which plant is found in abundance nearall the villages.While on the subject of food, I ought to say that they do notsell the bodies of their chiefs, kings, or great men. These receiveburial; and consequently they do not eat every body that dies.Slavery does not seem very prominent among them, though agreat many of the Fans themselves are yearly sold for slaves tothe coast traders on account of witchcraft accusations, debts,adultery, &c. Of late years the French " emigrant " ships havebeen filled with Fans to a very great extent.On September 10th, Ndiayai, the king, took me over to anOsheba town some miles away, whose king was his friend. Thetown, the people, the arrangements, everything looked just as inthe Fan town. I should not have known they were of a differenttribe had not Ndiayai assured me it was so. I imagine they arenot very far apart, however. Like the Fans, the Osheba lookwarlike, and are tall; their women are smaller, and hideouslyugly, and tattooed all over their bodies. A large part of theirintercourse with the Fan village consists in the interchange ofCHAP. VIII. MY ULTIMA THULE. 95dead bodies, and I saw as many human bones lying about theOsheba village as among the Fans.King Bunbakai, the Osheba chief, seeing that his friendNdiayai did not die after having seen me, concluded to comeout and have a look at me himself. He was a sociable oldfellow, dressed in the Fan style, and every way acting as aFan king might. We stayed with him several days, as I hadcome in great part to see what lay farther east toward theinterior, and how I should get farther. But I was now come tomy ultima thule. After every inquiry, made with the help ofmy Mbondemo followers, I could get only this information:-that beyond the Osheba village, two or three day's journeysoff, there lived other tribes, also cannibals, whose names myinformants did not know. It was said, however, that they werewarlike, and used poisoned arrows. When I desired to advancein that direction the people seemed unwilling, even afraid toaccompany me; assuring me that on account of the wars atpresent in existence between tribes there, any party attemptingto visit either side would run the risk of being waylaid withpoisoned arrows by the other.I had a great desire to go on, but confess that these storiesand some other considerations cooled my ardour. I was completely at the mercy of the Fans, and should be still more soif I advanced, for Mbene's men would not go farther. And Icould not forget that the Fans, though apparently well disposedtoward me, had a great penchant for human flesh, and mightby one of those curious freaks which our tastes play us-beseized by a passionate desire to taste me.To fall sick amongthem would be to tempt them severely and unjustifiably. ThenI had not goods enough to carry me among a strange people andalso bring me back; and I feared that, left in poverty, I shouldfail to receive among them the respect and obedience which thebeads, tobacco, and powder, copper and brass rings of a whiteman always obtain for him. Moreover, the Fan language is sucha collection of throat sounds that I not only could not get tounderstand it, but could not for some time distinguish anywords. The Osheba is yet worse; and harsher, ruder, or moreguttural sounds I never heard made. Now, as Mbene's men wouldnot go with me, nor even stay long here, I was like to be leftwithout an interpreter; and to go among any new tribes beyondthe mountains entirely unable to hold communication with them96 SUPERSTITIONS. CHAP. VIII.would have been labour almost altogether in vain. I thereforedetermined to make some longer stay with King Ndiayai, andthen return by a new route to the seashore.So vague and unsatisfactory were the rumours I heard ofcountry and people in the farther interior that I shall not makeany guess at the condition of that vast region. Only I think itquite likely that, as the Fan and Osheba tribes point eastwardas the place of their origin, their manners and customs, withsuch knowledge as they have of iron and of poison, and suchchanges in life as the different circ*mstances of the countrymay necessitate, may be characteristic of the tribes beyond.The Fans are a very superstitious people. Witchcraft seemsto be a very common thing to be accused of among them, andthe death-penalty is sternly executed. They set little valueon life; and as the dead body has its commercial value, thisconsideration too, probably, has its weight in passing sentenceof death.Polygamy is a fertile source of quarrels and bloodshed amongthem; and the growing desire for " white man's goods," to payfor which, in the present miserable system of trade, they cannotget sufficient ivory, induces them to send many of their criminalsto the coast to be sold to the slavers. As before mentioned, theyhave but few slaves-a circ*mstance which is probably in partaccounted for by the fact that they eat the prisoners taken inwar, whereas other tribes only enslave them.They have a great reverence for charms and fetiches, andeven the little children are covered with these talismans, dulyconsecrated by the doctor or greegree man of the tribe. Theyplace especial value on charms which are supposed to have thepower to protect their owner in battle. Chief among these is aniron chain, of which the links are an inch and a half long by aninch wide. This is worn over the left shoulder, and hangingdown the right side. Besides this, and next to it in value, is asmall bag, which is suspended round the neck or to the side ofthe warrior. This bag is made of the skin of some rare animal,and contains various fragments of others, such as dried monkey'stails, the bowels and claws of other beasts, shells, feathers ofbirds, and ashes of various beasts. All these are of the rareranimals, in order that there may not be too many charms of onekind, which would diminish their value and power.The chief village of each family of the Fans has a huge idol,CHAP. VIII . INTERMARRIAGES. 97to whose temple all that family gather at certain periods toworship. This worship consists of rude dances and singing.The idol-houses are mostly surrounded by a number of skulls ofwild animals, prominent among which I recognized the skull ofthe gorilla. To take away or disturb these skulls would becounted sacrilege, and worthy of death. I do not think theyoffer human sacrifices.The non-cannibal tribes do not intermarry with their cannibalneighbours, as their peculiar practices are held in too greatabhorrence. Trade is, however, likely to break down this barrier.Within two or three years the ivory of the Fans has so farexcited the cupidity of their neighbours that two or three chiefs,among whom Mbene was one, have been glad to take Fan girlsto wife, in order thus to get the influence of a Fan father-in-law.The poor Fans, who are farthest of all from the coveted whitetrade, are but too glad to get a son-in-law nearer the seashore;and I have little doubt but in a few years they will even succeedin intermarrying with other tribes to a considerable extent.Notwithstanding their repulsive habit, the Fan have left theimpression upon me of being the most promising people in allWestern Africa. They treated me with unvarying hospitalityand kindness; and they seem to have more of that kind ofstamina which enables a rude people to receive a strange civilization than any other tribe I know of in Africa. Energetic,fierce, warlike, decidedly possessing both courage and ingenuity,they are disagreeable enemies; and I think it most probablethat the great family or nation of which they are but a smalloffshoot, and who should inhabit the mountainous range whichsubsequent explorations convince me extends nearly if not quiteacross the continent-that these mountaineers have stayed inits course the great sweep of Mohammedan conquest in this partof Africa.It should be added here that the Fan are known on the coastas the Paouen.Fan Spoon.BayerischeStaatsbibliothekMÜNCHENH98 CLIMATE OF THE MOUNTAINS. CHAP. IX.CHAPTER IX.-The return Trip -Climate of the Mountain Region — Native Courage —Mode of Warfare Heavy Rains - On the Noya---― - ― Visits to Native Chiefs- Ezongo― Attempt at Black-mail -Alapay ― The Mbicho - Net-huntingBad Shooting of the Negroes - Attacked by the Bashikouay AntsToilet of the Mbicho — Superstition about the Moon —Ivory of this Districtpeculiar Igouma -Fan of the Country - An immense Cavern- Crossing a Mangrove Swamp.―- --We now began to make ready for our return to the sea. Iwas to go as far as his village with Mbene, and thence take mynew route. Mbene had since our arrival obtained a daughter ofKing Ndiayai for his wife; a point of great exultation to thispolitic old negro, who rejoiced that so rare an honour should fallto him, and hoped to receive large consignments of ivory fromhis father-in-law's people, on which he would pocket a profitablepercentage. Mbene, therefore, had relatives to take leave ofnot a very affecting circ*mstance, however.The Fans seemed very sorry that I was about to leave them,and all expressed a wish for my return. Ndiayai gave me anative knife as a token of remembrance, which was as much asreceiving a be-diamonded snuff-box from another sovereign-forknives are precious in Africa. I offered a large price to anotherman for a superb knife he had, but could not get it. His fatherhad given it to him, he said, and he could not part with it.So at last we were fully ready, and left the Fans and theirmountains. These mountains have a climate which is by nomeans African in the popular conception. Since we have beenhere we have had rain during every night; and it has been somuch clouded that I do not think the sun has shone clearly forthree consecutive hours on any day in as many weeks. Thecountry seems well watered, and the soil is exceedingly fertile.The climate is, of course, much healthier than it is on the riversnear the coast, and the people in consequence are more robustand energetic. It is a most promising country for the labourand settlement of white men at some time, or of civilized blackmen.CHAP. IX. MODES OF WARFARE. 99Mbene had spent some days before our start in collecting provisions. But, though we had a good supply, he asked me tostop at a Mbicho village not far on our route for more.I consented, and found that he was more desirous of exhibiting me toanother father-in-law of his, the Mbicho chief, Imana by name,who was greatly pleased to find his son- in-law in such creditablecompany, and presented me with two fowls and two bunches ofplantains in token of his pleasure, besides supplying our wholeparty with abundant provisions next morning, when we wentrejoicing on our way, the men singing songs as they marchedthrough the woods.The Mbicho are like the Mbondemo in looks, and their language is also like the Shekiani. They are not a very numeroustribe.Our party from here consisted of twenty men, thirteen women,and two boys. I caused the women to be relieved of their loads, totheir surprise, and that of their idle husbands, who could not understand why I should object to a woman doing all the drudgery.As we marched along gaily enough, about 2 P.M. one day mymen seemed suddenly uneasy. I asked what was the matter,and received for reply that a party of Shekianis were approaching, they thought, and then there would be trouble, as someShekiani men had had a palaver lately with Mbene. I felt veryuncomfortable, for, on listening, I too heard sounds as of menapproaching, and I knew that if there was a fight it would be ofthe cruel, treacherous kind which the negroes affect-not open,but a sudden surprise, which would give no chance for me tointerfere and prevent bloodshed. I therefore determined to stopthe palaver if I could, but meantime to stick to my party asthe safest way. We got ready our guns, and then cautiouslyadvanced. After about half-an-hour's suspense we discoveredthe enemy-not a party of Shekianis, but a large party ofchattering monkeys, of which we immediately shot half- a-dozen,which were roasted by the men for their suppers.The warriors of this part of Africa-with the exception of theFans and Osheba-are not overstocked with courage. Theyapplaud tricks that are inhumanly cruel and cowardly, and seemto be quite incapable of open hand-to-hand fight. To surpriseman, woman, or child in sleep, and kill them then; to lie inambush in the woods for a solitary man, and kill him by a singleH 2100 THE RAINY SEASON. CHAP. IX.spear-thrust before he can defend himself; to waylay a womangoing to the spring for water, and kill her; or to attack on theriver a canoe much smaller and weaker than the attackers:these are the warlike feats I have heard most praised, and seenoftenest done in this part of Africa. No rude or barbarouspeople seems fairly brave. Even the North American Indiansdealt in surprises, fought, like these negroes, from behind trees,and were cruel rather than brave; so that my ideas of a fairfight were not understood or appreciated by the negroes.The night of September 19th was one of the most uncomfortable of myjourney. It rained in the evening when we beganto arrange our camp, and I built two large fires to keep me dry,and got under shelter as well as I could. But about nine o'clockit came on to rain so heavily that it was scarcely possible to keepour fires alight. I had to use my neighbour's wood, which wasreadily given me. It rained thus till four o'clock, pouring downin one continuous stream, as though another Deluge had come.Then we all fell asleep, wet as we were, and when we wakedup saw the sun peeping at us through the dark, glistening, rainrefreshed foliage of the trees.The rainy season had by this time fairly set in in thesemountains, and the thunder, lightning, and heavy showers arecommon both day and night. We find great comfort in usingthe shelters erected, and conscientiously kept in repair by thecaravans or trading- parties of negroes who pass over this track.They give at least some shelter from the everlasting rains.We have found them kept in good repair wherever we havebeen. It is customary for every party to do what repairs arenecessary.On the 29th we saw many elephant-tracks but no animals;and as we were now bound in we did not stop to hunt. On the30th we crossed the Noonday River, and now a messenger wassent forward to announce our arrival. We arrived at the townabout 8 P.M., amid salvoes of old muskets and very generalrejoicing, and singing and dancing. I was tired, and was gladto get to bed in a house once more after eating something. Butunfortunately two or three of the king's babies, who were separated from me only by a few feet, cried all night, so that I didnot get much sleep.Mbene's people had not time now to attend even their ownCHAP. IX. FAREWELL TO MBENE. 101children. The rainy season had fairly come, and their crop wasnot yet in the ground, and they had to strain every nerve to getdone. Accordingly, the next day everybody but the childrenwent into the fields; and the poor little ones -all who had beenweaned—had but a dreary time of it playing around in themud, and greedily munching the few ground-nuts their mothers had left them.I found nowthat I must not stay long with Mbene; for, thoughhe had enough to eat for himself, I could not live on nuts, andhe found it hard to get plantains or fowls for me. The poorfellow was sorry, and even ashamed at his poverty, which in thiscase he could not help, as he had but moved his village lately,and they were only to plant now; so I determined to bid goodbye to him without loss of time. I gave him such presents assatisfied him for his trouble and his faithfulness to me, rewardedmy men according to promise and also to their gratification, andthen made arrangements with Mbene to transport me to thebanks of the Noya River instead of the banks of the NtambounayRiver, by which I had come, for I desired to see this river also.So for the last time Mbene and I broke together the plantainof friendship, and then I went on my way, followed by protestations of love from him which I was glad enough sincerely toreciprocate.We were nowjourneying toward the Noya. About five o'clockon the first day we had a storm, whose approach caused us tostop and build ourselves a comfortable camp. Thanks to thehuge leaves with which Providence has provided so many of thetrees and shrubs of the African forests, this was an easy matter;and we lay comfortably sheltered, and near a cheering fire, whilethe thunder rolled, and a heavy rain poured down, and occasionalflashes of lightning revealed grand masses of the gloomy oldforest. Gradually the storm passed over; and as we lay theretalking, one by one the men sank back in silence asleep. I wassoon asleep myself, leaving all care to those who had the watch,and whose duty it was to see to the fires.About midnight the screams of several leopards awoke me;but they were not very near us, our fires probably keeping themoff. I had four distinct fires about my shed, and these I nowcarefully poked up and fed, that no hungry leopard might betempted to rush across the lines; and then returned to sleep.102 DOWN THE NOYA. CHAP. IX.The next day we saw numerous elephants' tracks; but thegreat beasts avoided us, and fled in haste when they heardus coming. They had probably been hunted, and had a watchout. We saw, too, a strange water-snake, whose body was black,with rings of bright yellow along the whole length. My menwere much alarmed when they saw it, for they said its bite wasmortal; they tried to kill it with their spears, but it managed toescape them. They told me that besides being poisonous it wasvery good to eat, and gave as a caution that the head must becut off immediately it is killed, in order, I suppose, to prevent itsfangs from fastening on any part of the body.At last, after some hard travelling, the forest being very denseand often swampy, while numerous streams, bridgeless, of course,had to be crossed on crazy logs, we came to a small creek leadinginto the Noya, which was only two or three hundred yards distant. We seized on two canoes we found empty on the creek;and as these would not hold all our party, I put in all my goodsand as many men as I could make room for, and made the otherspromise to wait till we sent a canoe for them, which was likelyto be soon. Sure enough, scarce had we emerged into the Noya,a noble stream refreshing to look upon after the wretched creekswhich had been crossed for two days at very frequent intervals,than we met a couple of women fishing in two canoes. I promised them some leaves of tobacco if they would go and bringalong the men, and they were only too glad to do so.Thus we descended the Noya. The banks are clothed in thispart with trees of a pleasant shape and a dark evergreen verdure, which made a favourable contrast to the immense gloomymangrove-swamps which line all these rivers near the seashore.Here and there we saw little native villages peeping through thewoods, looking so quiet and pleasant that for the moment I couldforget the horrors of witchcraft, polygamy, and other crueltieswhich rule even in these peaceful groves.Towards afternoon we came to the village of a chief, Mbene'sfriend, who had sent a message to me to stop at his place on myway down. We were received with acclamations; all the peopleturned out to see me, and there was the usual singing, dancing,and cutting capers. The chief took me immediately to his ownhouse, the best in the town; but I was not destined to remainquiet, for presently the house and all the neighbourhood began toCHAP. IX. INDIA-RUBBER VINES. 103fill up with people eager to take a look at me. I was this timedoubly a hero; for they had heard of my trip to the Fan country,and had prophesied that I should be killed and eaten by thoseterrible people, of whom all these tribes seem to stand in greatawe. Now that I was come back in safety, they openly proclaimed that I must be the lucky owner of a fetich of veryremarkable powers. The king complimented me on my safereturn, and asked why I cared to see the cannibals and go totheir country.When I answered that I went there to shoot birds and animalsstrange to me, there went up a general shout of astonishment,and I fear I lost somewhat of the confidence and admiration ofthe hearers, for they could scarce give credence to what appearedso foolish. Nevertheless, Wanga, the chief, invited me to stayas long as I pleased with him.I got up early the next morning to take a look at the country,and try to shoot some birds for my collection and also somepigeons for breakfast. It was a fine clear morning, and I nowfor the first time noticed the beautiful situation of Wanga'stown, which I had been too weary to appreciate the night before.It lay on the edge of a bluff, perhaps one hundred and fifty feethigh, which overhung the Noya, and from whose summit I hada view of this river's course for several miles up and down. Immediately behind the town was a heavy forest of grand oldtrees, many of vast size both for height and thickness. Theunderbrush was tolerably dense, and huge vines stretched fromtree to tree, like gigantic snakes. Among these vines I noticedthe India-rubber vine, and found it to be very plentiful in thisregion.The natives looked at me as I was stuffing the birds I hadkilled, and were lost in wonder at what seemed to them veryremarkably foolish.I spent several days in the villages near here, and was everywhere received with kindness and also with curiosity. They hadnever seen a white man before, and of course were full of surprise, and alarm too, for a time. Others, who were more experienced, asked curious questions about the manners and customsof the white people. When I told them that a man was putinto prison for having two wives, both men and women set up ashout of wonder, but seemed to think that, though the white104 THE PEOPLE OF THE NOYA. CHAP. IX.man's country must be a great country, the white men werethemselves more lucky than wise.Wanga had promised me a new set of guides if I would staysome days with him; accordingly, I sent Mbene's men back,with proper acknowledgments, and prepared for a start with mynew guides.We were to go down the Noya for a few miles and then takethe land, leaving our canoes to return .I wanted very much to go off privately, but that would not do.The king and the whole village, male and female, about twohundred people, came down to bid me good-bye, and I had to shakehands all round, which took more time than I cared to spare forthe purpose. But it was the last pleasure I was ever likely to doto a people who had received me with very great kindness. Onefeels a strange softness about the heart on leaving one of thesesimple African villages, where, stranger in a strange land, he hasyet been treated kindly, and all his wants supplied. The peopleseem really sorry to see you go; and as you leave, thinking thatin all human probability you will never meet these kind peopleagain, you feel sorrier than you expected.We descended the Noya for a few miles, hailed at every turnby the inhabitants of villages who wished us to stop; and thenabandoned our canoes and took to the land. For some miles itwas very swampy, and the loads of my men made travelling difficult and tedious. I had now with me the entire results of thisexpedition, and this formed no light burden, even for the stout,finely-made negro fellows I had. The people along the Noyaare a fine-looking race, not above, but up to the " middle height,”with rather intelligent features, and not very black. They seemto live very happily in their villages, though, of course, all thevices and superstitions of Africa infect them, and often makebrutes of them.Presently we came to high land, and then the landscape regained somewhat of the beauty it had about Wanga's village,while we were able to push ahead faster over the solid ground.Towards sunset we reached a place called Ezongo, where the inhabitants, seeing our heavy loads, and supposing that I broughtthem vast and unheard-of amounts of trade, turned out with thegreatest amount of enthusiasm to welcome me.Their ardour cooled somewhat when they learned the contentsCHAP. IX. ATTEMPT AT BLACK-MAIL. 105of my packages, and I found in the course of the evening that therascally chief or king of Ezongo, thinking I must place a greatvalue on things I had gone so far to get, had determined to holdme till I paid a heavy price to get away.I was very angry at this outrage; and for a while thingslooked as though I should have trouble. I determined not tosubmit to an imposition which would leave me empty-handed anddefenceless, even if it would have answered to let any one of thesefellows impose on me under any circ*mstances. There seemedlikely to be a palaver. I determined to fight for my rights, butwas, of course, anxious to get all settled peaceably. The king,urged on by his people, who seemed a greedy set of rascals, insisted on his price. At last, my Mbicho guides from the Noyatried to settle the matter. They were wise enough to get the king to come to me with them alone. I gave the rascal a coatand an old shirt, and told him what was literally true-that I wasvery poor, and could not pay what his people wanted, and thathe must be on my side. He went out at once and haranguedthe turbulent extortioners. I watched the result with considerable anxiety; but at last, seeing that he would succeed, paid myWanga-town guides, and prepared to set out for Yoongoolapay, avillage whose chief I had seen on the coast some time before,when he made me promise to pay him a visit on my return fromthe interior.I was now really so reduced in trade that I had only a fewwhite beads left to pay to my guides, and was glad enough to begetting down towards the territory of a man who knew me, andwould probably trust me.We arrived at our destination late in the afternoon, and werereceived with great demonstrations of joy. My old friend, KingAlapay, was very glad to see me, and asked me to stay somedays, which, being very much worn out with constant exposureand anxieties, I determined to do. His village is situated upona high hill overlooking the surrounding country, and a beautifulstream skirts the foot of the hill . It is a charming situation,and the people who hold it I found very kind, peaceable, andhospitable.A considerable number of independent Mbicho villages lie herewithin a circuit of a few miles, and live in great harmony witheach other, all having prudently intermarried to such a degree106 NET-HUNTING. CHAP. IX.that they are really one large family. I was made welcomeamong them all, and spent some very pleasant days in hunting,and particularly in that kind of sport called here ashiga-hunting,or net-hunting-a practice very common among the Bakalaitribes.This singular sport is very much practised in this part ofAfrica, and, as it is generally successful, is a local amusem*nt,and brings out the best traits of the natives. I was always veryfond of it.The nets are made of the fibre of the pineapple plant, andalso with the fibres of a kind of tree, which are twisted into stoutthreads. They are from sixty to eighty feet long and four tofive feet high, and every village owns several. But as fewvillages have sufficient to make a great spread, generally severalunite in one grand hunt and divide the proceeds, the gamecaught in any net being the share of its owners.The first day we went out, half- a-dozen villages met togetherat an appointed place, the men of each bringing their nets.Then we set off for a spot about ten miles off, where they hada clearing in the dense woods which had been used before. Wemoved along in silence, so as not to alarm the animals who mightbe near our ground. The dogs-for dogs are used for this hunt-were kept still and close together.Finally we arrived on the ground, and the work of spreadingthe toils began. Each party stretched a single net, tying it upby vines and to the lower branches of trees; but as all workedin one direction, and each took care to join his and his neighbour's net together, we in a very short time had a line of nettingrunning in a wide half- circle, and at least half-a-mile long.This done, a party went out on each side to guard the sidesand prevent escape, and the rest of us were then ready tobeat the bush. We started at about a mile from the nets, and,standing about fifty yards from each other, advanced gradually,shouting and making what noise we could, at the same timekeeping our guns in readiness to pop down anything whichshould come in our way. The sport would have been less exhausting had not the jungle been so dense. Though this veryspot was frequently used for net-hunting, and therefore morecleared than the neighbouring wilder wood, yet we were obligedto proceed almost step by step, and every native was armed, be-CHAP. IX. NEGRO GUNNERY. 107sides his gun, with a kind of heavy cutlass or machete, with whichit was necessary literally to hew out a way, the vines making anet-work which only the beasts of the forests could glide throughwithout trouble.As we advanced, so did the men who guarded the flanks, andthus our party gradually closed on the prey, and presently webegan to hear shots. I heard the shots, but could see nothing,and had only to hold my own gun in readiness, and pray that myneighbour might not shoot me by mistake; for they are fearfully reckless when on a chace.At last we came in sight of the nets. We had caught agazelle of a very minute size- a pretty little animal -whichdoes not grow to be larger than a pointer. It is very graceful, and ought to make a pretty pet, though I have never seenone tamed. There were several other little quadrupeds, anda large antelope was held and shot before I came up; and another antelope, being shot at and missed, rushed forward andgot entangled in the net.Havingdrawnthis cover, wegathered up the nets and the dogs—who enjoyed the sport vastly—and walked off to try another place.I do not wonder at all at the bad shots the natives make.Wherever I have been among them my shots have excited astonishment; and this not so much because my guns are better,as because I have good powder, and they do not know how toload a gun. The negro idea is to put in as much powder as hedares, and on top of this as much old iron as he can afford tothrow away in one shot. If the powder was of only averagestrength they would blow themselves to pieces, but the traderson the coast make it very mild by adulterations; and I have actually seen bits of iron of various shapes rammed into a gun tillit was loaded to within a few inches of the muzzle. Consequently,the recoil is heavy; they dare not hold the guns to their shoulders, and blaze away very much at a venture.Walking over to another part of the forest, about three- quarters of an hour distant, we again spread our nets. Here we hadbetter luck, catching a number of antelopes, deer, and somesmaller animals. This seemed enough for one day, of which Iwas very glad, for I was tired out.Before breaking up, all the game caught was laid together,that all might see it. And now I had opportunity to notice the108 ATTACKED BY BASHIKOUAY. CHAP. IX.curious little dogs, about a foot high, and sharp- eared, who hadbeen of such material assistance driving the animals into ourtoils. They were standing looking at their prizes with eagerand hungry eyes. They do not look very intelligent, but are ofthe greatest use in this sport, because when they bark the gameis never far off, and thus they warn the hunters. Often they goout on hunts for themselves; and it is no unusual thing for halfa-dozen dogs to drive an antelope to the neighbourhood of theirvillage, where they give tongue, and the hunters come out and kill their quarry.When we returned to the village, one antelope was put asidefor me, being a new species, and the rest of the meat was immediately divided. We were all very hungry, and cooking beganat once. I confess I could hardly wait for the dinner, which wasone worthy an emperor's palate, consisting of plantains cookedin various ways, and venison of the tenderest, stewed in lemonjuice, and also roasted. Only coffee was wanting, for my coffeegave out some days ago.I was glad to go to sleep early, but was scarce soundly asleepwhen I was turned out of the house by a furious attack of thebashikouay ants. They were already all over me when I jumpedup, and I was bitten terribly. I ran out into the street andcalled for help. The natives came out, and lights were struck,and presently I was relieved. But now we found that the wholevillage was attacked. The great army was pouring in on us,doubtless excited by the smell of meat in the houses; and myunfortunate antelope had probably brought them to my door.All hands had to turn out to defend ourselves. We built littlecordons of fire, which kept them away from places they had notyet entered, and thus protected our persons from their attacks;and towards morning, having eaten everything they could getat, they left us in peace. As was to be expected, I found myantelope destroyed —literally eaten up.The vast number, the sudden appearance, the ferocity andvoracity of these frightful animals never cease to astonish me.Last night they poured in literally by millions and billions, andonly when many fires were lighted were they forced from thatdirect and victorious course which they generally hold. Then,however, they retreated in parties, and with the greatest regularity, vast numbers remaining to complete the work of destruction.CHAP. IX. WELCOME TO THE NEW MOON. 109The country about Yoongoolapay's village is quite hilly, someof the hills being almost worthy to be called mountain- peaks.Everywhere a dense forest covered the earth. There were plentiful signs of iron here in the red colour of the earth and theabundance of ferruginous quartz scattered all over the ground.Blocks of a peculiar blackish stone formed the river-beds, andalso the sides of the hills, which were divided by these layers intoregular steps or terraces. Of these stones and the quartz Igathered specimens, but they were lost, with much more, by afire which destroyed the finest collection of subjects of naturalhistory I had gathered in Africa.The negroes of the villages differ in little from those on thecoast whom the reader has already been introduced to, exceptthat they are dirtier. There is nothing more disgusting than thetoilet of one ofthese Mbicho fellows, except it be the toilet of hiswife. The women seem to lay on the oil and red earth thickerthan their husbands; seem to wear dirtier cloths about theirmiddles, and are actually less endurable when gathered in acrowd about a fire, as is their wont, than the men. Almostevery day a party of men and women crowd into my hut to seemy stuffing operations, and scarcely are they there than I haveto leave it, the odour is so insufferably sickening.But they are kind-hearted, and, though tempted sometimes tosteal, the mere fact that I, a stranger and a white man, supposedto be the possessor of untold wealth, could travel through all thesetribes alone and remain unmolested, is evidence enough thatthe black fellows of this part of Africa are not such a very badset.I noticed in this village a custom or superstition which is common to all the tribes I have visited, and the reason, or supposedreason for which I have never been able to persuade anyone totell me. On the first night when the new moon is visible all iskept silent in the village; nobody speaks but in an under-tone;and in the course of the evening King Alapay came out of hishouse and danced along the street, his face and body painted inblack, red, and white, and spotted all over with spots the size ofa peach. In the dim moonlight he had a frightful appearance,which made me shudder at first. I asked him why he paintedthus, but he only answered by pointing to the moon, withoutspeaking a word.110 PECULIARITIES OF THIS REGION. CHAP. IX.There are other and varying ceremonies in different tribes towelcome the new moon; but in all the men mark their bodieswith charmed chalk or ochre; and no one has ever been prevailed on to tell me the meaning of the rites or the particularsof the belief. I suppose the common men do not know itthemselves.After a stay of a week with Alapay, I determined to move on,and gave the king to understand that he must give me men tocarry my baggage, which was now very considerable; for I hadadded some birds and animals to it here, and had already agreat deal when I arrived.IA day was accordingly appointed, and the king proposed to goalong with me, of which I was but too glad. The poor villagerscame in a body and asked me to stay longer; and on the morning of my departure all hands assembled to bid me good-bye.gave each some leaves of tobacco, with which they were immensely delighted, and then shook hands all round. Our departure took place amid the firing of guns and the shouts of thepeople, some of whom were almost moved to tears. The African's affections are easily excited; and these people had beenso kind to me, they felt as though they had a great interest in me.HereOur path lay through an immense forest-a grand solitude,gloomy and, even at midday, unpenetrated by the sun.the silence was only made more striking by the occasional shrillscream of a parrot or the chatter of a monkey. We saw no otheranimals, though elephant-tracks abounded, and the leopard isknown to frequent these woods.It is a most singular thing that no hippopotami are foundbetween the Gaboon and the Moondah, whereas south of theequator they abound in all the rivers and lakes, particularly in theNazareth and the Cape Lopez rivers. Also, they reappear at acertain distance north of the equator, so that there is this narrowtract or belt which they avoid. The same may be remarked ofthe ostrich; while the elephant of this narrow belt should be avariety, if one may judge of the ivory, which is that peculiarand highly-valued kind which, on being first cut, is greenishrather than white; and when turned white retains its colourand does not quickly turn yellow, as is so common with ivory.The biggest ivory of the coast comes from this belt under the་CHAP. IX. HUGE GRANITE BOULDERS. 111equator. I have seen a tusk whose weight was 110 pounds, butthis was an extraordinary instance; the most weigh from twentyto fifty pounds. They are mostly of a shining coffee-colouroutside, and I have seen some which were as black as coal.Alapay's wife (his head-wife) made me a quantity of igouma,qr cassava-bread, the day before we started, so that with a littlefish and some plantains I was not likely to starve, even if wedid not enter any villages on the way. The igouma is made bypounding and making a paste of the cassava. This paste isboiled, and becomes then very thick and firm. It is now shapedinto loaves a foot long and four or five inches in circumference,and permitted to dry, when it becomes hard and tough, andmay be kept several weeks, though it sours and becomes unfitfor a civilized stomach generally after two or three days. Butit will not do to be squeamish in Africa, which, with all itstropical richness of vegetation, is as good a place to starve in asany man could desire.In the afternoon, shortly after eating our dinner of igouma anddried fish, we came to a Mbicho village, where the people allturned out to get a look at me, as they had never seen a whiteman before. They were a wild set, and evidently regarded meas a very strange monster.Some hours after leaving this village we came to a high ridgeor plateau, along which were strewn some of the most extraordinary boulders I ever saw; immense blocks of granite covering the ground in every direction, and many of them betweenthirty and forty feet high by one hundred long or more.hill or ridge was the highest I had seen between the Moondahand the Muni; and I think if it had not been for the trees which obstructed even this view, I should have been able to see the ocean.ThisNear to the largest of these granite masses, a huge rock risingsome fifty feet out of the ground, I saw the entrance-betweensolid rocks—to a fine large cavern, much used by the natives asa house to stop in over night when they are travelling back andforth, and very comfortable, as it is open to the light, and itsvast opening admits such a flood of sunlight and air that it isnot likely to be used as a lair for wild beasts. We saw the remains of various fires inside; but I am bound to say we saw alsothe tracks of various leopards and other dangerous beasts on theoutside, for which reason I did not care to sleep there.112 A FINE WATERFALL. CHAP. IX.While exploring the cavern I thought several times I heard atrickling which seemed almost like the noise of rain; in fact,when we got out I was surprised to find not a cloud in the sky.Turning for an explanation to Alapay, he led me along a pathwhich evidently led to the trickling, which soon grew in our earsto the sound of rushing waters. Presently we came to the edgeof a steep declivity, and here I saw before and around me a mostcharming landscape, the centre of which was a most beautifulwaterfall. A stream which meandered along the slope of theplateau, and which had until now escaped us, had here made itsway through a vast granite block which barred its course, and,rushing through the narrow round hole in this block, fell in onesilvery cascade for fifty feet down to the lower level. Clear,sparkling, and pure as water could be, it rushed down to itspebbly bed—a sight so charming to my eyes, long wearied of themonotony of the interior forests, that I sat for some time andliterally "feasted my eyes " upon it.Then came an attempt to have a view from the bottom. Aftersome difficult climbing we got to the bottom, and, looking up,beheld, under the fall, a hole in the perpendicular face of therock, which formed evidently the mouth of a cavern.I determined to enter this. We lit some torches. I tookmy revolver and gun, and, accompanied by two men, made goodmy entrance without getting wet. Once inside, where probablyman had never before stood, we excited the astonishment ofvast numbers of huge vampire bats, which fluttered around ourlights, threatening each moment to leave us in darkness, whilethe motion of their wings filled the cavern with a kind of dullthunderous roar.When we had advanced about one hundred yards from themouth we came to a stream or puddle of water extendingentirely across the floor and barring our way. My men, whohad gone thus far under protest, now desired to return, andurged me not to go into the water or beyond, because all sortsof wild beasts and snakes were sure to be lying in wait for us.At the word snakes I hesitated, for I confess to a great dread ofserpents in the dark or in confined places, where a snake islikely to get the advantage of a man.Peering into the darkness beyond, I thought I saw two brightsparks or coals of eyes gleaming savagely at us. WithoutCHAP. IX. BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE.113thinking of the consequences, I levelled my gun at the shiningobjects and fired. The report for a moment deafened us. Thencame a redoubled rush of the great hideous bats; it seemed tome as though millions on millions of these animals were suddenly launched out on us from all parts of the surroundinggloom; our torches were extinguished in an instant, and, panicstruck, we all made for the cavern's mouth-I with visions ofenraged snakes springing after and trying to catch up withme. We were all glad enough to reach daylight once more,and I think my men could not have been persuaded to try thedarkness again.The scene outside was as charming as that within was hideous.I stood long looking at one of the most beautiful landscapes Isaw in Africa. Before me, the little stream, whose fall overthe cliff behind me filled the whole forest with a gentle roar, ranon between steep banks which sometimes seemed almost tomeet and hide it. Away down the valley we could see itscourse, traced like a silver line over the plain, finally losingitself to our sight in a denser part of the forest. The valley itself was a pleasant wooded plain, which it seemed the hand ofman had not yet disturbed, and whence the song of birds andthe chatter of monkeys, and hum of insects came up to us in aconfusion of sounds very pleasant to the ear.We could not loiter long over this scene, however. I wasanxious to get to the seashore, and we set off again to make asgood progress before dark as possible. The forest abounded invines, which were every moment getting in our way, and briars,which were even worse, so that travelling in the dark, if we hadto do it, was likely to be very unpleasant. The whole of thiscountry abounds in little rivulets and streams, which take theirrise in these first hills which we were crossing this afternoon andrun down towards the seashore, some losing themselves eregetting there, and others emptying their tiny loads of freshwater into the great Atlantic.I suppose the elephants like plenty of water; we found ourselves almost continually crossing or following elephants' tracks.Indeed, my men walked very cautiously, expecting every moment to find ourselves face to face with a herd. But they arevery shy in this part of the country, being much chased for theivory; and keep a good watch for their enemy, man.I114 CROSSING A MANGROVE-SWAMP. CHAP. IX .At last the country became quite flat, the elephant-tracksceased, and presently, as we neared a stream, we came to amangrove-swamp. It was almost like seeing an old friend, oran old enemy, for the reminiscences of musquitoes, tedious navigation, and malaria which the mangrove-tree brought up in mymind, were by no means pleasant. From a mangrove-tree to amangrove-swamp is but a step. They never stand alone.Presently we stood once more on the banks ofthe little streamwhose clear, pellucid waters had so charmed me a little fartherup the country. Now it was only a swamp. Its bed, no longernarrow, was spread over a flat of a mile, and the now muddywaters meandered slowly through an immense growth of mangroves, whose roots extended entirely across and met in themiddle, showing their huge rounds above the mire and water,like the folds of some vast serpent.It was high tide, and there was not a canoe to be had. Tosleep on this side among the mangroves, and be eaten up bymusquitoes, was not a pleasant prospect, and to me there seemedno other. But my men were not troubled at all. We were tocross over, quite easily too, on the roots which projected overthe water's edge, and which lay from two to three feet apart atirregular distances. It seemed a desperate venture; but theyset out, jumping like monkeys from place to place, and I followed, expecting every moment to fall in between and stick inthe mud, perhaps to be attacked by some noxious reptile whoserest my fall would disturb. I had to take off my shoes, whosethick soles made me more likely to slip. I gave all my baggage, and guns and pistols to the men, and then commenced ajourney whose like I hope never to take again. We were anhour in getting across an hour of continual jumps and hops.In the midst of it all a man behind me flopped into the mud,calling out " Omemba! " in a frightened voice.Now " omemba " means snake. The poor fellow had put hishand on an enormous black snake, and, feeling its cold, slimyscales, let go his hold and fell through. All hands immediatelybegan to run faster than before, and to shout and make all kindsof noises to frighten the serpent. But the poor animal also tookfright, and began to crawl away among the branches as fast ashe could. Unfortunately, his fright led him directly towardssome of us; and a general panic now ensued, everybody runningCROSSING AMANGROVE -SWAMP .

CHAP. IX. TO KEEP THE DEVIL OUT. 115as fast as he could to get out of the way of danger. Anotherman fell into the mud below, and added his cries to the generalnoise. I came very near getting a mud-bath myself, but luckilyI escaped. But my feet were badly cut up.At last we were safe . across, and I breathed freely oncemore. A little way from the edge of the swamp we came to ourresting-place, the village of an old friend of mine, named KingApouron. He came out to meet me; guns were fired, and theusual African welcome of shouts and dances gone through with,and then we entered the village, where Alapay and Apouronbegan the ceremonies of introduction; the former giving a shortaccount of my various adventures in his village, and the latterlistening with apparent interest, and frequently exclaiming, ina wondering way, " I do not know why our white man went toyour bush-country! I do not know why he should go there! "While these ceremonies were going on I walked to the edgeof the village and took a long look, for before me lay once morethe ocean and Corisco Bay. I had often on this trip wishedmyself back here, and it was with no slight feeling of gratitudeto God, who had preserved me through all, that I looked oncemore at the ocean.To keep the Devil out. The Bell is sounded to drive out the evil spirits, while the good ones come into the horn.I 2116 TROUBLES OF A TRAVELLER. CHAP. X.CHAPTER X.Up the Moondah - Vexations of a traveller in Africa - Mangrove-swamps –Mbicho Men run off —Bashikouay again - - Missionary Station - The Barwood Trade- Manner of getting Bar-wood - The India-rubber VineHow Rubber is gathered -Torturing a Woman- - Adventure with a wildBull -— Lying out for Game —Bullock and Leopard —Birds.-It was now near the end of October, and the rainy season hadfairly set in. I determined, after some consideration, to makea trip up the Moondah before going to the Gaboon; hoping,indeed, to run up the Moondah and cross the narrow land whichseparates that stream from the Gaboon, and thus return down.the latter to my headquarters.My specimens were sent to Corisco. I received a supply ofgoods which would suffice for buying food up the Moondah; andhaving settled, after some palaver, with Apouron, who thoughtthe less goods I took with me the better he should be off, I atlast got off on the 30th of October.The process of making ready for such an expedition as this isvery tedious, especially if the traveller is at the mercy of theking of a small village. I had to rent my canoe, buy my masts,make my sails, go round through the village and purchase my paddles, and, finally, I had to engage my men. When all thiswas done, the goods packed aboard, and good-bye said, I hadbeen ten days engaged in preparations. Time is of no value tothe African.We had a head wind, but nevertheless saw the mouth of theMoondah towards afternoon of our sailing day. The tide wasrunning out, and against us, and, as the wind was still ahead,our progress was slow; but it gave me an opportunity to killsome of the birds which come down here to get their living, onaccount of the abundance of fish found here. The shore, themud-islands, and the waters all around were alive with thesebirds. Here a flock of pelicans swam along majestically, keeping at a good distance from our boat; there a long string offlamingoes stretched along the muddy shore, looking, for all theworld, like a line of fire; and wherever the mud peeped out ofCHAP. X. MY MEN DESERT. 117the water there were herons, cranes, gulls of various kinds, whilea tree on the shore was covered with a flock of the beautifulEgretta flavirostris, whose pure white feathers looked like snowin the distance.Towards sunset we arrived at the Shekiani village where Iintended to stop. The king I had known before, and thought hewould help me up farther. This village lay at the top of one ofthe only two hills I saw on the Moondah, and these are both atit* mouth. It is throughout a low-banked, swampy stream,overrun with mangroves, and half dry when the tide runs out.It used to afford a good deal of India-rubber, and the bar-woodtrade is always very brisk; also it produces a little beeswax, anda trifle of ebony and ivory. Thus the Shekianis are known towhite men, who come there often in their vessels to trade withthem. Several thousand tons of bar-wood are taken annually.On the 5th of November I started with a new crew up river.I found one vast, continuous mangrove-swamp, in which novillages could be found-these lying mostly away from the mainstream on little creeks, which, being dry at low tide, could bevisited only with difficulty. From these gloomy mangroveforests went up a stench of decaying matter which was not onlyunhealthy, but unpleasant. Add to this the constant risk ofgetting our canoe on a mud-bank, and a persistent drizzle withwhich we were favoured all day, and you will see that the day'sjourney was not pleasant.Near sunset we came to a Mbicho village. The Mbicho speaka variety of the Shekiani, and we could therefore make ourselves understood. I spent the night here, and found in themorning that my men had run away with the canoe, leavingme, fortunately, my goods, but no means of getting ahead. I hadpaid them beforehand. I learned that they had had trouble witha village we should have to pass, and did not dare to go higher.The Mbicho, of course, were delighted to have me at theirmercy, and determined-good fellows! -to make as much out ofme as possible. I began operations by feeing the king-privately, of course—who thereupon told his people that I wantedmen and a canoe, and that I was his dearest friend. There wasmuch squabbling; and, finally, I succeeded in engaging fourmen to go with me for ten yards of prints each; but not to-day-to-morrow. "To-morrow " is the favourite word in Africa.118 MANGROVE-SWAMPS. CHAP. X.Meantime I learned that some white men lived farther up,and knew at once they must be missionaries, whom I determinedto see. Accordingly, next morning, we started again-this timein a very small canoe, and with no conveniences of any kind.We were still among mangrove-swamps; and it was curious tosee that the branches of this tree, which hung in the water athigh tide, and were bare at low tide, were covered thickly withoysters.Between the mud, the smell, and the hot sun, which poureddown on my head all day, I got a violent headache, which disappeared only when we came to a sudden and beautiful changeof scenery. About forty miles from the mouth of the Moondahthe tide ceases to affect the river, and the swamps disappear.As we were sailing along we came to a turn in the river,rounding which we found ourselves in what seemed really anotherland. The mangroves had entirely disappeared, the banks ofthe river were higher, and the stream itself rolled along with alife-like current between its well- defined banks. Palms, and theusual vegetation of the African upland, bordered the banks, andhere and there large trees projecting over met in the middle,and formed a fine arbour, beneath which we sailed, relieved ofthe burning rays of the sun.Presently we came to a small creek, and rowing up that fora mile, I saw before me a narrow path which was to lead meover to the Ikoi Creek, where my friends the missionaries wereliving.The Moondah is a most disagreeable and unhealthy riverone vast swamp, which seems little likely ever to be useful toman. I was forced to take quinine twice a day while going up,and the few natives who live near its banks are a poor set, sickly,and with little energy.At the back of the swamp, however, there are hills and a highcountry, where the bar-wood tree exists in great abundance.The natives cut great quantities of it every year; and if it didnot grow fast and in the greatest plenty they would long sincehave exhausted it, as well here as on the Muni and the Gaboon.We travelled along our path till dark, when we fell in witha Bakalai village. The people wanted me to stay, but theirmotions were suspicious, and I would not. We got torches, andI sent a man ahead and kept one behind, to light us on our way.CHAP. X. MISSION STATION. 119In this village I saw an albino, his face quite white, and hishair flaxen-a very singular sight.We had not gone far with our torches when I had the misfortune to step into an army of bashikouay ants. I was coveredwith them in an instant, and screamed for help. The menrushed towards me and helped me to strip myself, which done, wekilled what remained on my body. For a few minutes I sufferedthe most frightful torments, and was glad enough to have all thehelp I could against these terrible animals.Having well shaken out my clothes, I put them on againhaving gotten out of the way of the ants, of course -and weproceeded.We next found that we were on the wrong road. We retracedour steps and got into the right path, but had gone but a littleway when once more I had the misfortune to step into an armyof bashikouay. This time I was prepared. In an instant I wasstripped, and, though I was severely bitten, yet I got off easierthan before.By this time my clothes were all torn to pieces by the sharpthorns, and I was beginning to think that the company of theBakalai rascals would have been better than this travelling bynight; when the men announced that we were now nearing theIkoi village. I was completely exhausted, and could not havewalked another mile, and I made up my mind never to travelthrough the woods again by night.The natives were still lying about their fires when we arrivedin the village, and I was shown the missionaries' house, when Ifound to my joy that the missionaries who now resided herewere both old friends of mine, Rev. Messrs. Best and Pierce,of the A. B. C. F. M. They were filling the place formerlyoccupied here by my friend the Rev. Mr. Preston and his goodwife.Here I found a welcome, and once more a real bed to sleepupon, and had some opportunity to rest my wearied limbs.Mr. and Mrs. Best, and Mr. and Mrs. Preston, and Mr. Pierce,had laboured for some years among the Bakalai about the Ikoi.They understood the Bakalai language, and taught the childrenhere in the Scriptures and other branches of knowledge with considerable success. Let me give here an account of a day of thelife of these missionaries.120 BAR-WOOD. СНАР. Х.Everybody rose at daybreak, and presently after a little bellcalled the servants and strangers into a little room which servesas parlour and sitting-room and library, where morning prayerswere offered in the Bakalai language; the Bible being read alsoin Bakalai from a translation made by Mr. Best.Then came breakfast; after which the scholars played untilnine o'clock, when the ringing of a bell called them to school.School was opened by a hymn sung by all the children, followedby prayer. Then came recitations of the classes. They seemedparticularly well up in geography when I was there, but had justbegun arithmetic, and were doing immense sums in addition.The children seemed to enjoy the schooling; and as themissionaries are kind to them, and their studies are not verydifficult, while their play-hours are long, it seems natural thatthey should like it. From twelve to two was recess; and thenthe girls took lessons in sewing, their great ambition being tosew well enough to make shirts. Also in the afternoon the boyswere taught writing, and I remarked that some of them wrotebeautiful hands.The people about here are engaged in the bar- wood trade,and a good deal of this dye-wood is shipped down this creek tothe Gaboon, and also down to the Moondah.Bar-wood, as I have before explained, is a red dye-wood. Itis the trunk of what the natives call the ego-tree, a large,tall, very graceful tree, with abundant branches high up, smallbright-green leaves, and a beautiful smooth reddish-colouredbark. It is very abundant in the forests of this part of Africa.In fact, the supply may be considered as inexhaustible, thelabour of bringing it to market being the most costly part of itsproduction.Though great traders, these natives have no ideas aboutlaying up a store of their products before it is wanted. This iswhat detains trading-vessels so long on the coast. When a vesselcomes for bar-wood, the news immediately spreads all about theneighbourhood, and the men bestir themselves to get a supplydown. There is great excitement among the villages; and thisparticularly if it happens that the chief of the village has friendsamong those to whom the captain has " given his trust ” —thatis to say, those with whom he is going to deal, and for whom hehas brought goods.СНАР. Х. THE INDIA-RUBBER VINE. 121Every man immediately goes out to the forest and selects atree for himself, which he begins to cut down. The bar-wood ofcommerce is the heart or main part of the trunk, and is red.The useful wood is surrounded by a covering of white sap-woodabout two inches thick, which is useless, and is carefully cutoff. Then the wood is cut into lengths of three feet, each pieceweighing from fifteen to twenty pounds. The father and hischildren cut and split the wood, and the wives carry it into thevillages, and the latter thereupon claim a distinct part of thereturns, which they get, though often unwillingly. Bar-woodis so low-priced in Europe that the natives here get but verysmall prices, and five dollars for a hundred billets is already ahigh rate. As they have to carry everything down to the seaon their backs, unless they are lucky enough to live nearrivers or creeks, they have to work hard enough for the littlethey get.The India-rubber vine afforded once one of the largest exportsof this part of the coast. The caoutchouc of Africa is obtainedfrom a vine (called dambo by the natives), and not from a tree.This vine is of immense length, and has singularly few leaves,and only at the extremity of the vine. The leaves are broad,dark green, and lance-shaped. The bark is rough, and of abrownish hue. A large vine is often five inches in diameterat the base. To get the best India- rubber, the milk must betaken from the incision in the bark, without wounding the wood,as this has a juice of its own, which, mixing with the milk,spoils it.The recently-growing demand for this product has induced thenatives to adulterate it with the milky juice of various trees andvines found in these forests. This has seriously injured theirtrade, but will probably result in saving this valuable vine fromtotal extinction in this part of the country. This disaster waslike to be caused by the foolish improvidence of the nativecaoutchouc collectors, who bled the vines at so many pores asto exhaust them of their life-blood . Thus, some years ago,thousands of vines were destroyed annually; and as the vine isof slow growth, and the milk of the young vine is thin, watery,and less valuable, they have very much injured themselves andthe reputation of their goods by even tapping these.For some years the trade was entirely stopped; but more122 NEGRO BARBARITY. CHAP. X.recently the French have recommenced it, and in 1859 anAmerican vessel was sent out by a New York house, Messrs.James Bishop and Co., to get a cargo.The caoutchouc-vine grows equally well in low and highground, but is found most plentiful in the valleys and bottomlands along the Muni and other rivers. The milk taken from thevines growing on high lands is, however, thicker, and yields abetter article of India-rubber.It is a pleasant sight to see a party of natives setting out togather India-rubber. I once accompanied such a party on theBenito River, my object being game, while theirs was caoutchouc.For several days before setting out the women were busied inpreparing food, and smoking the boiled manioc which is theirprincipal subsistence. The men meantime were making readyto defend themselves against the attacks of wild beasts by furbishing up their spears and guns. Cutlasses and knives weresharpened, and the wooden pots in which the precious juice wasto be gathered were carefully collected and made ready fortransportation; while others still prepared the wooden moulds inwhich the juice is permitted to solidify. It was a pleasant sceneof industry and excitement. The negroes rejoiced beforehandon the good luck they hoped to have.But all this innocent joy was destroyed for me the morningbefore we set out, by accidentally stumbling across one of thoseacts of barbarism which chill the blood of a civilized man,though but slightly regarded by the negroes. I was huntingin the woods near the village, and saw sitting on a tree at somedistance a pair of beautiful green pigeons (Treron nudirostris),which I wanted much for my collection of birds. By dint ofmuch exertion I penetrated the jungle to the foot of the tree,and here a ghastly sight met my eyes. It was the corpse of awoman, young evidently, and with features once mild and good.She had been tied up here on some infernal accusation ofwitchcraft and tortured. The torture consisted in lacerationsof the flesh all over the body, and in the cuts red peppers hadbeen rubbed. This is a common mode of tormenting with thesepeople, and as devilish in ingenuity as anything could well be.Then the corpse was deserted. I could only hope the poor girldied of her wounds, and had not to wait for the slower processof agonized starvation to which such victims are left. Will theCHAP. X. MODE OF GATHERING INDIA- RUBBER. 123reader think hard of me that I felt it in my heart to go backto the village and shoot every man who had a hand in thismonstrous barbarity? But what would have been the use?Such scenes are constantly occurring in all parts of heathenAfrica, and will continue till Christianity is spread abroad here,and in its light these heathen barbarisms perish. I fear it willbe many a long year yet.Gloomy and savage with this remembrance, I set out with thenegroes, whose cheerful songs grated harshly on my ears. Iwondered how people could sing and laugh after committingsuch a crime.The party were in high spirits. The women bore on theirdevoted backs the cooking utensils and other necessary campequipage. The men carried only their arms. We travelled allday, and part of the second day, ere the ground was reached.At last the vines grew plentiful, and the party stopped to reconnoitre. After a two hours' exploration, the men returned satisfied, greatly exaggerating, of course, the abundance of the vines-they exaggerate everything-but all agreeing that we mustencamp where we were.Men and women at once set out to gather large leaves withwhich to form shelters for ourselves, as it was the rainy season,and we needed to be protected from the showers. Branchesand leaves were also collected for our beds; and a huge fire wasbuilt to protect us from the incursions of leopards, which areplentiful in these woods, and quite daring enough to attempt ameal even from so large a party as ours.We slept close around the camp-fire, with our guns in readiness to resist any venturesome leopards; but, for this night,only heard the terrible roar of the beasts at a distance.The next morning each man took his own family, and wentout on an independent prospecting tour. These negroes haveno idea of working together. Though they set out in a largecompany, this is only to protect themselves against wild beasts.Once on the ground, every family works for itself, hunting upits own vines, and carrying away separately the fruits of its toil.Thus it comes about that some are lucky and others unlucky;whence originate quarrels, accusations of theft, often fights, inwhich the weaker, of course, is the sufferer. The scene is notso pastoral as it might be.124 FIGHT WITH A BUFFALO. CHAP. X.The negroes stayed out all day, and at night came in, eachbearing little jars of milk gathered during the day. The milkwas now poured into the wooden cylinders in which it is permitted to congeal, and then all once more gathered about thefire, and related, with much noisy declamation, the adventuresof the day.On this first day I shot several niaré or wild buffalo (Bosbrachicheros). It is a very savage beast, and one, which I onlywounded, attacked me. I had taken good aim, but my bulletstruck a vine on its way and glanced aside, so that, instead ofhitting the beast between the eyes, I only wounded him in thebody.It was a huge bull, and, turning fiercely, he came at mewithout stopping to think. I had but a moment to consider,and prudently determined to run, for, though I had my secondbarrel in reserve, the crash of the infuriated bull was toopowerful. As I turned to make my escape, I found my foothopelessly caught in a tough vine. I was a prisoner, and thebull dashing toward me, head down and eyes a-flame, tearingasunder the vines which barred his progress as though they hadbeen threads. I had been nervous a moment before; but now,turning to meet the enemy, felt at once my nerves firm as arock, and my whole system braced for the emergency.All depended on one shot, for, entangled as I was, if I missedthe bull would not. I waited a second more, till he was withinfive yards of me, and then fired at his head. He gave one loud,hoarse bellow, and then (thank God! ) tumbled at my feet,almost touching me, a mass of dead flesh.The hunt after wild boar was my daily amusem*nt, and byits means I supplied the whole camp with meat; but the finestexperience of this trip I must now relate. Arming myself oneevening, and blacking my face with charcoal, as was my fashionin all my hunts-nothing seems to catch the eye of a wild beastof this country so quickly as a white face-I went out of soundof the encampment, and in what I knew to be a walk of thebuffalo, and lay down under the shelter of a huge ant-hill towatch for game. It was a starlight night, but in the forestthere was a sombre light, in which such a spectacle as I wishedfor would have shown to advantage. Here I lay for one hour,two hours, three hours, and heard no sound but the indis-

THE LEOPARD AND HIS PREY .CHAP. X. THE LEOPARD AND HIS PREY. 125tinguishable medley which so eloquently tells of the night-lifeof the woods. Now and then the cracking of a twig and a grunttold of some perambulating pig; and once a whole herd ofgazelles filed past me in fine array, never knowing my presence,as I was luckily to windward of them. At last, I am ashamedto say, I fell asleep. How long I dozed I do not know, but Iwas awakened with a start by an unearthly roar—a yell-as ofsome animal in extreme terror and agony.I started up, looked hurriedly about the narrow space whichwas open around me, but saw nothing. The woods were yet resounding with the cry which had so startled me.And now adull booming roar succeeded, and I could guess that beyond mysight, out in some other open space, some fortunate leopard hadgained a meal. Determined to see the fight, if possible, I madetowards the sounds, and, emerging from the wood, saw scuddingacross the plain, and at but little distance from me, a wild bull,on whose neck was crouched what I instantly knew, from thenatives' description, to be a leopard. Vainly the poor beastreared, tossed, ran, stopped, roared, and yelled. In its blindterror it at last even rushed against a tree, and nearly tumbledover with the recoil. But once more anguish lent it strength,and it set out on another race. I took as good aim at theleopard's figure as I could, and fired, but with no effect that Icould discover. The exciting spectacle lasted but a minute;then the bull was lost to my sight, and presently his roarsceased. Probably the leopard had sucked away his life , andwas now feasting on the carcase.We stayed a week. In that time the party collected five hundred pounds of India-rubber, and then returned with cheerysongs to the village, each one expecting to make great bargainswith the Mpongwe traders, or with white men.To return, now, to my regular route, from which this hasbeen a very long digression.The country about the Ikoi Creek seems to be a great birdcountry. During my stay at Mr. Best's I killed a great manybeautiful birds, some rare, and a few of hitherto unknownvarieties. One was a variety of the partridge, the Francolinussquamatus, a gray bird, whose loud call was heard in the forestsevery evening calling its mate. They sleep side by side on aparticular branch of some tree where they have their home, and126 SINGULAR BIRDS' NEST. СНАР. Х.one does not cease to call until the other arrives at this rendezvous. The other a very curious bird-has been since namedthe Barbatula du Chaillui. It is a really beautiful creature:throat and breast a glossy blue-black; head scarlet; a line ofcanary-yellow running from above the eyes along the neck; andthe back, which is black, covered with canary-yellow spots.This singular little bird makes its nest with great pains in thewood of dead trees. The male and female settle upon a treewhich seems to have been dead a sufficient time to soften thewood a little, and then, going to work with their bills, peck outa circular opening two inches in diameter, and perhaps twoinches deep. This done, they dig perpendicularly down forabout four inches. The cavity thus made is their nest. Ofcourse, as they are small birds, it takes them a long time to perform this piece of carpentering-often two or three weeks.Then it is lined softly, and the female lays her eggs and hatchesthem in security.From the Ikoi Creek I returned without incident or adventure to the Gaboon.2СНАР. ХІ. PLANTATION LIFE. 127CHAPTER XI.Creek Navigation Nocturnal Habits of the Negroes A royal Farm Beach-travel Canoe-building Ogoula- Limbai A great Elephanthunter In the Surf -Shark River Prairies Sangatanga KingBango An Audience of Royalty- A Ball Barracoons- - UnwelcomeGuest —A Slaver in the Offing Decline of the Slave- trade on this Coast -Idols.--My stay in Gaboon was only long enough to enable me to securemy specimens and send them on, and to prepare myself for atrip to Cape Lopez. I was anxious to see for myself the barracoons of the slave-traders, as well as to hunt the wild buffalo,which is found in great numbers on the prairies of that part ofthe interior.When all was ready, I placed all my goods, and guns, andammunition in one of the immense canoes which the Mpongwemake, and we started for Mbata Creek, on which lay the plantation of my old friend King Rompochombo, or Roi Dennis, as theFrench call him.We entered the Mbata Creek at 4 P.M., and paddled up andup, the stream growing narrower all the time, and more overhung with trees, till about midnight the men had to pull thecanoe through the brushwood, which made more swamp thancreek. This brought us soon to the end of the creek, and thenwe found ourselves on the royal plantation.My baggage was immediately taken to the king's first wife'shouse. Though so late, or rather now getting early, the peoplewere not asleep. It is a singular habit the Africans have, andvery like the highest class of society in our own cities -they donot sleep at night, but lie about their fires, and smoke and tellstories, dozing off all day afterwards. I was not surprised, therefore, to find the Princess Akerai lying, with three or four otherwomen near a huge fire (the thermometer was at 85°) , smokingher pipe, and saying she was glad to see me.However, all was busy in an instant. The princess hurried offto cook me some plantains and fish which her slaves were preparing, and which I greatly enjoyed, for our day's journey had128 THE KING'S FARM. CHAP. XI.made me hungry. A fire was built in the centre of the floor ofthe house which I was to occupy, and around this several of theking's wives assembled, while the queen busied herself in preparing a corner for my sleeping accommodations. For bed Ihad a mat simple enough, but not so hard for the bones as thebamboo couch I had enjoyed at Mbene's; and there was addedto my mat, in this case, the unusual luxury of a musquito netting,by help of which I was able to enjoy a good sleep.The negroes are very hospitable and kind, but generally verypoor and dirty. However, it does not seem dirt to them; andas for their poor half-starved lives, they enjoy them as thoughno misery were in the world; till death or great distress comes,and then their sorrow is something terrible-literally a sorrowwithout hope.King Rompochombo's people are among the most thriving ofthe Mpongwe. The plantations where I now was belong to them,and are the most flourishing I saw anywhere on the coast. Thevillage, which lies at the head of the Mbata Creek, is surroundedby a fertile prairie, which was now in full cultivation. The peoplehave a great many slaves, and the women seem really to have ataste or liking for agricultural operations—perhaps because intheir Gaboon villages they have before them only Sandy orPongara Point, a long sandy flat, where nothing will grow.Here I saw on every hand, and for several miles in all directions,fields of ground- nuts, plantains, corn, sugarcane, ginger, yams,manioc, squash (a great favourite with all the negroes); whilenear their little huts were growing the paw-tree, the lime, thewild orange, together with abundance of plantains and pineapples. The life of peaceful industry they led here really gaveme a high opinion of this little nation, who have greater persistence in this direction than any of their fellows I have seen.They seemed even to care for animals, for everywhere I sawgoats and the diminutive African chickens.The king was at his town on the coast, but had given ordersto have me forwarded on to Cape Lopez, Sangatanga, the chieftown of the cape, being about sixty miles from Mbata. The kinggives himself no trouble about this beautiful plantation, and visitsit only during the dry season. Indeed, I suspect that he haslittle authority there, the queen ruling supreme, managing everything, and ordering the labour of the slaves and the successionCHAP. XI. MPONGWE AGRICULTURE. 129of the agricultural operations. Occasionally she sets her ownhand to the planting, which is the labour of the women, the mencutting down and burning the bushes, which spring up withsuch terrible rapidity wherever the African soil is left for a seasonuntouched.As I intended to spend some months in the Cape Lopez country, I had brought from Gaboon a very inconvenient quantity ofluggage, which was to be transported overland to Sangatangafrom here, Mbata being the head of navigation in this direction.To carry my three heavy chests of trade-goods, 200 pounds ofcoarse powder, half-a-hundredweight of tobacco, 50 pounds ofshot, three double-barrelled guns, together with hams, boxes ofcrackers, bottles of wine, brandy, and oil, woollen blankets forcamping, and camp cooking-utensils (I never dared to eat foodcooked in the native pots, from a fear ofwhat was in them before)-to carry all this required some thirty men. These I asked thequeen for next morning, saying that I would give each man fivefathoms of cotton cloth, some beads, and tobacco. She made nodifficulty, but, of course, several days were required to get everything ready for a start.Finally, all was prepared, and we started. Our way led us forten or twelve miles through a fine prairie, interspersed with occasional hills, and making altogether a beautiful country for agriculture. South of the Gaboon the country changes very much,and is generally less rough and better adapted to the growingof yams and other farm-products than any I saw to the north.Here, as we travelled along, we came occasionally upon thebamboo huts of slaves who lived here, far away from theirMpongwe masters on the coast, and tilled the soil on their ownaccount, sending a tribute of its products down to the seasidewhenever canoes came up the Mbata for it. They seemed quitehappy, as they were certainly independent, for slaves. The oldmen and women lay lazily in front of their little huts, smoking;and on every hand were smiling fields of plantains, manioc, peanuts, and yams.Towards twelve o'clock we approached the sea, and could hearthe distant boom of the surf. Presently the sky, before clear,became overcast, and before long we were in the midst of a wildstorm-almost a tornado. It thundered and lightened violently,and rained as it rains only in Africa. We rushed for a little hutK130 ALONG THE SHORE. CHAP. XI.we saw before us, and were kindly received by an old negro andhis wife, who lived there. In about an hour the storm was over,and the sky was again clear. These storms are frequent here inthe season, and sometimes do much damage, tearing down trees,and overwhelming the plantations in ruin.Half-an-hour's walk brought us to the beach, along which wenow had to walk. The soft sand made our travel exhausting; Iwas forced to take off my shoes, as I sank down above my anklesat every step. This lasted the whole day, and I was glad whennight came and we stopped. My men bore it better than I,though they had heavy loads to carry. Though our walking wasbad, the scenery was often very fine. On one side was the rollingsea, and on the other the dark green forests, coming down inseemingly impenetrable masses nearly to the shore. Every mileor so a creek cut its way through this mass of green, and woundits devious course into the interior, having a curious appearance-canal-like-from the way in which the vegetation began onthe very banks, in the same solid masses which presented theirfronts seaward. It was a real solitude, the roar of the sea breaking the grim silence of the forest only to make that more impressive. From time to time we recognized the lonesome cryof the chimpanzee, which is the chief inhabitant of these wilds.Just at sunset we came upon a beautiful little prairie ornatural clearing, situated quite in the middle of the woods, andreceived an unexpected welcome from the owner of some hutswe saw in front of us. He proved to be a Mpongwe, namedMbouma, whom I had known at Gaboon. He had come hitherto spend the dry season in making canoes, the trees surroundinghis little clearing being of unusual size. He had chosen for thescene of his labours one of the prettiest spots I ever saw in Africa.The little prairie was a mile long, by perhaps one-third of amile wide, perfectly clear, and covered with a luxuriant growthof grass, which, when the sun lay on it next morning, shonewith a golden glory. The very beasts of the forest seemed torejoice in its prettiness; monkeys leaped nimbly along the treeson its skirts, and the song of the birds in the morning gave acharm to the whole scene which few of the African wilds canboast.Mbouma had moved hither temporarily, but with his wholefamily—wives, children, and slaves. They had built temporaryCHAP. XI. A MPONGWE BOAT-BUILDER. 131shelters, rude but sufficient leaf- roofed huts, and lived in a kindof extended picnic. He showed me some immense trees he hadcut down, and which were intended for canoes. Several of thesevessels were already completed and ready to launch. A Mpongwecanoe is sometimes of very considerable size. Mbouma had onefinished, which was 60 feet long, 34 feet wide, and 3 feet deep.The process of canoe-building is very simple. The tree is felled,cut to the requisite length, divested of limbs, if any are in theway, and then fire is applied to burn out the inside. This fireis carefully watched and guided till all the inside is eaten away.Then the mpano, the native adze, is used to trim all off neatly,and to give shape to the outside. They know very well how todo this; and their larger canoes are very stout and reliablecraft, in which considerable coasting-voyages are sometimesmade. Unfortunately the making of the canoe is mostly theleast part of the work. The canoe-tree (for only one kind oftree is used for this purpose) grows almost invariably some milesaway from the water, and the unlucky boat-builder's greatestundertaking is the launch. Often they have to transport asixty-foot canoe eight or ten miles overland to the nearestcreek or river. In this case they cut a path through the woods,and on this lay rollers at two feet apart, on which, with muchtrouble, the little vessel is pushed along.Mbouma was very fortunate in his choice of locality. Hisfarthest canoe was but two miles from the seashore, and hethought his labour easy enough. But he was forced to send allhis canoes by sea to the Gaboon.Little prairies like this of Mbouma's occurred constantly between this and Sangatanga, and gave me a good opinion of thevalue of this country for purposes of civilized life . They weregreat reliefs to the dreary journey.We continued to skirt the seashore, our aim being to gain aShekiani village, where we purposed to stop the night. In theforenoon I shot a beautiful black and white fishing- eagle (theGypohierax angolensis) , which sat on the very top of a hugecotton-wood-tree, looking gravely down into the blue sea below,meditating its finny prey.At three o'clock we reached a village where the chief, OgoulaLimbai by name, turned out to meet us at the head of his wholenation, which consisted of thirty men, sixty or seventy women,K 2132 OGOULA-LIMBAI. CHAP. XI.and a prodigious number of children . I was welcomed andconducted to a house-a real house-the most convenient andsubstantial I had met with among the wild negroes. It washigh, had a plank floor, and was really wonderful for a savagechief's abode. It had several rooms partitioned off with planks;and when I had rested and talked a while I was asked into another room, where a newsurprise awaited me. The walls of thisroom were covered with wall-paper, and all around were hunglittle pictures of saints. A table was covered with a real cottoncloth, on which was my dinner, which I was now asked to eat.The pièce de résistance was a splendid roast of boar-meat, juicyand fragrant. The wild boar is very plentiful hereabouts, andmakes a very fine roast. The animal is black.I ate unquestioning, determined to satisfy my body before Iattempted to satisfy my mind about this mystery of civilizationin a rude African village far from white settlements.Finally Ogoula- Limbai explained all. A Portuguese carpenter, left sick by some passing slaver, had lived with him for awhile and built him this astonishing house; and I suppose ofthePortuguese, too, my black friend must have learned the table.arrangements and the art displayed in cooking that deliciousboar-roast. I suppose Ogoula- Limbai may probably have beenonce concerned in the slave-trade; and, though he did not mention it, this would account for several evidences of civilizationI saw about me. However, whatever he had done, he doesnot dare now to set up a slave-factory, although, doubtless, hisheart longs to do so. He is a vassal of the king of Cape Lopez,who claims a monopoly of that business, and would soon drivehim off were he to attempt to set up on his own hook. Ogoulais the only Shekiani chief who has been permitted to settledirectly on the seashore between Gaboon and Cape Lopez-theking of the latter place suffering no such attempt, which he fearsmay interfere with his present sole possession of a most lucrativetrade. None of these Shekiani fellows dare trade directly withthe white men. They must all submit to the extortions of theirneighbours who are so fortunate as to possess the seashore; andif Ogoula were to attempt direct trade-though he has the finestchances-his town would be burned down in a week.Ogoula has the reputation of being the greatest hunter of elephants in all the country about here. As he could speak Mpon-CHAP. XI. A DARING ELEPHANT-HUNTER. 133gwe, he told me some of his adventures, which proved indeedthat he was a daring and expert fellow. Going out to the huntone day he met two elephants. Being alone he had but onegun, and would have retreated and watched for a safer chance;but the great beasts saw him and did not give him any opportunity of escape. He was obliged to make a stand; and, takinggood aim, he killed one elephant. Unfortunately it was the female, and the male, seeing its partner fall, immediately rushedat him. He turned to retreat, and caught his foot in a trailingvine. The more he struggled the less he got loose, and meantime his pursuer was tearing down everything in its way, andwas almost on top of him when he got his foot loose, and indesperation swung himself into a young sapling which stood athand. Scarce had he done this, when the elephant, trumpetingwith rage, was beneath him. It seized the sapling with its trunk,and swayed it violently back and forth, determined to pull itdown. But as it swung on one side, Ogoula, nimble throughdesperation, was able to catch at another which stood near, andwhen the elephant seized this, he gave himself a great swingand caught the outstretched branch of a huge full-grown tree,from which he clambered to a safe height where he could affordto laugh at the vain rage of his enemy.The negroes are not generally good marksmen, but they havegreat nimbleness and considerable presence of mind, and oftenescape in situations where a white man would most likely bekilled.As my men were very much exhausted with the weight ofmy baggage, I asked Ogoula to let me have a canoe, which hedid. The road to Sangatanga by sea was a little further, but agood deal easier than along the yielding sand of the seashore;so the luggage was to be put in the canoe, and I and part of thepeople to go with it.I slept on a sofa-bed-another relic of the Portuguese-witha negro boy to fan me, and a torch by whose smoke it washoped the musquitoes would be driven off. As the natives here,including Ogoula himself, are great thieves, my things wereplaced in a room near mine, where my men slept.About one o'clock I woke up, roused up the men, and proceeded to the seashore. Here we found ourselves in a positionso usual, and so characteristic of the negroes' dealings, that I134 A PALAVER AND A DUCKING. CHAP. XI.will describe it. I had bargained for a canoe and paid for it,expecting, of course, to have it in such a condition that we coulduse it.Now we could find no paddles. I went to Ogoula, who saidthey must have been stolen, but offered a new set for twofathoms of cloth and two bottles of rum.I refused, point-blank, to be cheated.Ogoula frowned-looked blacker than usual, in fact, anddeclined to help us.There was much " palaver," and finally one of my men gavehis own cloth and got the paddles. I was very angry, but coulddo nothing; and happily Ogoula was just in the same state.He thought himself ill-used that I had given him no rum(which I never carried for the natives), but could do nothingbut cheat. Had I not been escorted by Rompochombo's men,no doubt I should have had trouble-probably been robbed.We now put our things aboard, got in, and put off. The surfwas high, the boat deep-laden, and, unluckily, we got caughtin a mountain of a breaker, which turned us over in an instantbut a few yards from the shore, and sent us all into the water,which, fortunately for me, was not deep.Here was another mess. We got ashore again, kindled animmense fire, and then my men, who were, as all the coastnegroes are, good divers, set out, and in an amazingly short timefished up everything we had lost but one or two small packages.I was very glad to find my guns again, for without them Ishould have been in a bad plight. The powder, fortunately, hadbeen so carefully packed that it was not injured; and, as forthe rest, I came off very well.Last of all the paddles were hunted up. They had beenwashed ashore a long distance off. Then we lay down by thefire till dawn and dried ourselves, and, when day broke, I hadall the things again put into the boat, and sent the men off tomake their way round, determining myself to walk overland.While we lay about the fire I kept a good look-out for myfriend Ogoula, and was rewarded by seeing his rascally facepeering at us through the darkness. He came down when hesaw himself discovered, and expressed himself very sorry; but Ifelt certain that if we had been in confusion I should have beenplundered. These negroes seem to be unable to keep theirCHAP. XI. SHARKS - SANGATANGA. 135hands off property that has been cast ashore by the sea, nomatter how slight the accident.I set out with a man to carry my gun and show me theway. Towards noon we came to a village, where, fortunately,we got something to eat, for I was very hungry. In the afternoon we came to the Shark River; rightly named, for its mouthwas actually alive with huge sharks, which swam about our frailcanoe as we crossed in such an outrageously familiar mannerthat I was rather glad to get safely across.The negroes boast that they can swim the river withoutdanger if only they have nothing red about them; and, in fact,all my men swam across without accident, first carefully concealing those parts of their scanty dress which might have theobnoxious colour. They also offered to take me over on theirbacks; but this I refused, from a fear that the sharks mightmake an exception in my case to their general rule. These fishare here held sacred-which may have something to do with theirharmlessness. The natives believe that if they should kill onethere would be no safety from their attacks thereafter. It iscertainly very singular that they should not attack men in thewater, for on any other of the numerous points on the coastwhere they abound a man would be instantly killed did he venture among them.I did not reach Sangatanga till a little before dark, havingtravelled sixteen hours, counting an hour's rest on the way, andI never was so tired and footsore in my life. The people weregreatly surprised at the feat-no inconsiderable one under anAfrican sun and over beach-sand, for the distance is quite fortymiles.The prairies grow larger and more important as the travellerapproaches Sangatanga, and in the interior they form a stilllarger portion of the country. The change is very curious andvery decided; as north of the Gaboon such a thing as a clearpatch is almost unknown; all being vast, dense, hardly penetrable forest. All the interior, from Gaboon to Sangatanga andNazareth River, is hilly, rolling land, and contains immenseprairie tracts, where the buffalo has his home and pasture. Eachclearing is lined with dense, evergreen forests, where the buffalospends his days, grazing only by night; and these forests shelterthe elephant, leopard, and all the varied fauna of these woods,136 CAPE LOPEZ. CHAP. XI.which abound greatly more in game than the country north ofthe Gaboon.The hills above Sangatanga assume very fantastic shapes , andare many of them quite steep. Along their sides, where theyare bare, they are covered with thousands of the curious hills ofthe white ants which abound hereabouts. These hills or nestsare about two feet high, and, being formed like flat-topped toadstools, such as are common in our meadows after a rain, look inreality like a vast assemblage of gigantic mushrooms.My men found me shelter for the night, and I saw nothing ofthe town or its people till next morning.Sangatanga is set upon a tolerably high hill fronting the seashore, between which and the town, a distance of about two miles,stretches a lovely prairie, about which are scattered numerouslittle villages. The view is charming, for, turning the eye upwards from the landscape which lies at one's feet, the beholdersees before him the boundless stretch of the ocean, whose billowsseem pouring in to overwhelm the shore. I never tired of thisfine landscape, which was doubly refreshing after my long andtedious journeys in the unpicturesque regions north of the Gaboon, where the coast-line almost everywhere is a deadly swamp,and the interior an almost lifeless wilderness.At the top of the hill on which I stood was the royal residence,where dwelt the king of the Oroungou tribe-called the CapeLopez people by the whites. He is a powerful chief, and histribe-over whom he rules almost as a despot by his personal influence-are a thriving and influential people.Cape Lopez proper is in lat. 0° 36 ' 10" S., and long. 8° 40′ E.from Greenwich. It takes its name from the Portuguese, whoformerly called it Cape Lope Gonsalvez. It is chiefly a longsandy point projecting into the sea, on which it gains somewhatevery year. This point protects the bay, which is quite largeand full of shallows and banks, so that vessels are obliged toanchor far from the shore. The cape looks from the sea something like overflowed land. The point is so low that the bushesand trees growing on it seem from a distance seaward to be setin the water.The bay is about fourteen miles deep, and several small riversempty their waters into it at or near its base. The Nazareth, amore considerable stream, also has its mouths here, as well as theCHAP. XI. KING BANGO.137Fetich River, one of its branches-which takes his name fromFetich Point, a remarkable locality at its mouth. The bay hasfrequent banks and shallows, but the water is very deep near thecape itself, and vessels of large size may sail in, almost or quitetouching the land, without danger. There is no surf in the bay;but outside the cape, along the shore to the south, it beats in soheavily that in many places even the most experienced boatmencannot land except during a few days of each month.The bottom of the bay is swampy and overgrown with mangroves, which come quite down to the shores, in their usualgloomy and impenetrable masses. The water here is brackish,from the large quantity of fresh water brought down by theNazareth and other streams. The rivers are all lined for a shortdistance up with mangrove-swamps, and this part of the countryhas a gloomy, dirty, sickly appearance—the black waters rushinginto the sea, the long mangrove-flats sending up noisome exhalations, and filling the air with a pungent and disagreeable odourof decaying vegetation.The bay abounds with all sorts of delicious fish, and the capeitself is a famous place for turtle. Near the right bank of themouth of the Nazareth there is a little village called Fishtown,where great quantities of fish are taken every year.There is a safe channel through the shallows from the cape tothe mouth of the Nazareth, but otherwise the bay is not easilynavigable.The region known generally as the Cape Lopez country includes all the shores of the bay, and the interior for thirty orforty miles. It has much fine land, and King Bango, if he werenot a drunken vagabond, might be a prosperous king. Back fromthe seashore the land becomes higher and hilly, the mangrovesgive place to forests of palm and more useful woods, and fineprairies dot the country quite thickly. The whole of this district is given to the slave-trade. It produces small quantities ofivory, ebony, wax, &c.; but the slave factory is the chief commercialestablishment, and the buying, selling, and transporting of slavesfor the barracoons at the cape is the most profitable business.About ten o'clock of the morning after my arrival the kingsent his mafouga (his intendant, major- domo, herald, and secretary of state) to the village where I had stopped, to ascertain whowas the white man who had come, and what was his business.138 A ROYAL AUDIENCE. CHAP. XI.The Oroungo language being almost identical with theMpongwe, I was able to converse with the mafouga, and informed him that I was too tired to speak or see anyone, butthat next day I would see the king; with which he went offsatisfied, expressing his astonishment that any white man couldwalk on foot the distance I did yesterday.At eight o'clock the following morning I accordingly preparedfor my visit to King Bango, or Passall-the last being the namegiven him by the traders. His Majesty lives at the top of thehill, and the royal palace is surrounded by a little village of huts,in which reside the royal wives, of whom there are really a vastnumber (over 300), as the king takes pride in keeping up thelargest haremto be found on this part of the coast.As I entered the village the mafouga met me, with the king'scane borne aloft, and inquired, in an official voice, my business,and if I desired to see the king.I answered, Yes-somewhat disgusted at so much ceremony,though the crowd of loyal subjects who had followed me up werehugely pleased.I was asked to wait awhile, and presently (the royal wiveshaving put the finishing touches to their toilets, perhaps) I wasadmitted to the palace.It was an ugly hole of a house, set on pillars, and of two stories.The lower story consisted of a dark hall, flanked on each sideby rows of small dark rooms, looking uncommonly like cells.At the end of the hall was a staircase, steep and dirty, up whichthe mafouga piloted me. When I had ascended, I found myselfin a large room, at one end of which was seated King Bango,surrounded by about a hundred of his wives, and with his interpreter and some of his principal men standing near him.The king—a middle-sized, not over-clean, dissipated-lookingnegro, dressed very lightly in a shirt and a dilapidated pair ofpantaloons-wore on his head a crown which had been presentedto him by some of his friends the Portuguese slavers, and overhis shoulders a flaming yellow coat with gilt embroidery all overit-apparently the cast-off coat of some rich man's lackey inPortugal or Brazil. The crown was shaped like those commonlyworn by actors on the stage, and was probably worth when newabout ten dollars. But his majesty had put around it a newband or circlet of pure gold, which must have been worth atCHAP. XI. A VISIT FROM KING BANGO. 139least two hundred dollars. He was very proud of this crown.He sat on a sofa, and held in his hand a cane, which officiated assceptre.Most of his wives present wore silks. I was presented to thequeen or head wife, an old woman, and by no means pretty.The king remarked that the slave- trade no longer prospered.He complained of the English, who were the cause of this stagnation, and feared much that in a few years more he would be left without customers.He next addressed me in French, and told me he had been toBrazil and also to Portugal, having lived two years in Lisbon,and knew how to read Portuguese-a bit of knowledge whichmust have been handy in his business affairs. It was easy to seethat his foreign travel had done him little good. To his originalignorance he had added only what he thought European manners,and some kinds of dissipations perhaps previously unknown tohim.He told me that the entire village on the hill was occupiedby his family and slaves, and that about two hundred of his menwere now in the country on his plantation. To my question ofhow many children he had, he replied that he did not know theexact number, but at least six hundred, which, from after observation, I judge a fair estimate.The next morning that absurd personage, the mafouga, whowas evidently the result of his royal master's visit to Lisbon,came down to myhouse to announce that the king would returnmy visit in the afternoon. Accordingly, at two o'clock I arranged my little bamboo-house, and presently a great beating ofdrums announced that King Bango was under way. Soon agreat procession of people appeared, at the head of whom theking was borne in a hammock. I went out to meet him, andfound, to my surprise, that he could not move. I thought, atfirst, that he was dead-drunk, but was presently informed thathis left arm and leg were paralyzed, and thus half his body wasdead. His people lifted him out of his hammock and seatedhim on a seat which I had prepared, and here six of his wives.surrounded him with fans. The rest of his family who werepresent also crowded around, and I soon perceived that all thewomen were drunk. His majesty had called at one of the slavefactories on his way to my house, and there rum had been140 A BALL AT THE PALACE. CHAP. XI.served out to the whole cortège. Evidently the royal ladieshad managed to get more than their share.Bango was dressed as yesterday, except that he had on a newcrown, which I asked to see. He took it off. I found that itwas also a tawdry concern, but enriched with gold to the valueof at least a thousand dollars. It contained some poor imitations of precious stones, and was evidently thought an object ofgreat value and beauty by its possessor. After praising itsbeauty, I returned it; whereupon his majesty tried to pick aquarrel, saying that neither Portuguese, English, French,Spaniards, or Americans had ever before asked him to take offhis crown, and that he thought I intended to insult him. Ofcourse I said I had a great desire to behold, near to, such abeautiful object, which seemed to pacify him. He informed methat this crown had been given him by a celebrated slave-traderon the coast, well known under the name of Don Jose, and thatit was sent as a special gift from one of the richest firms of RioJaneiro, who had dealt largely with him.While we were talking, one of the women was slyly kickingme on the shins and winking at me, which I sincerely hopedthe king, her husband, would not see, as I had no desire toarouse his jealousy. When we ceased, all the women began toask for rum, which I refused, but gave them instead severalheads of tobacco, and then formally presented the king with twolarge pieces of cloth. This put him in good humour, and, aftersome refreshments, he set out for home. It was not withoutgreat trouble that his huge carcase was hoisted into the hammock. As he left, my men saluted him with a salvo of musketry, which, too, flattered his vanity.The next night a ball was given by the king in my honour.The room where I had been first received was the ball-room.When I arrived, shortly after dark, I found about one hundredand fifty of the king's wives assembled, many of whom wereaccounted the best dancers in the country. Shortly afterwardssinging began, and then a barrel of rum was rolled in andtapped. A good glassful was given to each of the women, andthen the singing recommenced. In this the women only tookpart, and the airs were doleful and discordant. The words Icould not always catch; but here is a specimen:-CHAP. XI. AN OFFER OF MARRIAGE."When we are alive and well,Let us be merry, sing, dance, and laugh;For after life comes death;Then the body rots, the worms eat it,And all is done for ever."141When everybody was greatly excited with these songs, the king,who sat in a corner on a sofa with some of his favourite wivesnext him, gave the signal for the dance to begin. Immediatelyall rose up and beat a kind of tune or refrain to accompany thenoise of the tam-tams or drums. Then six women stepped outand began to dance in the middle of the floor. The dance isnot to be described. Anyone who has seen a Spanish fandango,and can imagine its lascivious movements tenfold exaggerated,will have some faint conceptions of the postures of these blackwomen. To attain the greatest possible indecency of attitudeseemed to be the ambition of all six. These were relieved byanother set of six in course of time, and so the ball went on forabout two hours, when, what with occasional potations of rumand the excitement of the dance and noise, the whole assemblagegot so uproarious that I had thoughts of retreating; but theking would not suffer it. He and all the people seemed toenjoy it all exceedingly.Next women came out, one at a time, and danced their best(or worst) before a closely-critical audience, who, watchingevery motion with jealous eyes, were sure to applaud by audiblemurmurs of pleasure at every more than usually lewd pas. Atlast this ceased, and two really pretty young girls came outhand in hand and danced before me. I was told that they weredaughters of the king, and he desired that I should take themfor my wives-an offer which I respectfully but firmly declined.Finally the room began to smell too high for me, and, as therevelries were getting madder all the time, I slipped out andbetook myself to my house to sleep.The next day I made a visit to the barracoons, or slave-pens.Cape Lopez is a great slave-dépôt-once one of the largest onthe whole coast-and I had, of course, much curiosity to seehowthe traffic is carried on.My way led through several of the villages which are scattered about the extensive plain. Every head of a family makesa separate little settlement, and the huts of his wives and slaves142 THE SLAVE-PENS OF CAPE LOPEZ. CHAP. XI.which surround his own make quite a little village. Each ofthese groups is hidden from view by surrounding clumps ofbushes, and near each are the fields cultivated by the slaves.The object of building separately in this way is to prevent thedestruction which used frequently to fall upon their largertowns at the hands of the British cruisers, who have done theirbest several times to break up this nest of slave-dealing. Atown could be shelled and burned down; these scattered plantations afford no mark.Cape Lopez boasts of two slave-factories. I now visited theone kept by the Portuguese. It was, from the outside, an immense enclosure, protected by a fence of palisades twelve feethigh, and sharp-pointed at the top. Passing through the gate,which was standing open, I found myself in the midst of a largecollection of shanties surrounded by shade-trees, under whichwere lying about, in various positions, people enough to form aconsiderable African town.An old Portuguese, who seemed to be sick, met andwelcomed me, and conducted me to the white men's house, atwo-story frame building, which stood immediately fronting thegate. This was poorly furnished, but contained beds, a table,chairs, &c.Unfortunately I do not speak either Spanish or Portuguese,and my conductor understood neither French nor English. Wehad, therefore, to make use of a native interpreter, who madeslow work of our talk. The Portuguese complained that it wasnow very hard to land a cargo in the Brazils, as the Governmentwas against them, and that each year the trade grew duller.To put myself on a right footing with him, I told him I hadnot come to trade, but to collect objects in natural history,and to see the country and hunt.I was now led around. The large house I have mentionedwas surrounded by a separate strong fence, and in the spaciousyard which was thus cut off were the male slaves, fastened sixtogether by a little stout chain which passed through a collarsecured about the neck of each. This mode of fastening experience has proved to be the most secure. It is rare that six menare unanimous in any move for their own good, and it is foundthat no attempts to liberate themselves, when thus fastened,succeed. They reposed under sheds or shelters built about theCHAP. XI. WHITES BELIEVED TO BE CANNIBALS. 143yard, and here and there were buckets of water from which theycould drink when they felt inclined.Beyond this yard was another for the women and children,who were not manacled, but allowed to rove at pleasure throughtheir yard, which was also protected by a fence. The men werealmost naked. The women wore invariably a cloth about theirmiddle.Behind the great houses was the hospital for sick slaves. Itwas not ill-arranged, the rooms being large and well-ventilated,and the beds-structures of bamboo covered with a mat-wereranged about the walls.Outside of all the minor yards, under some trees, were thehuge cauldrons in which the beans and rice, which serve asslave-food, were cooked. Each yard had several Portugueseoverseers, who kept watch and order, and superintended thecleaning out of the yards, which is performed daily by the slavesthemselves. From time to time, too, these overseers take theslaves down to the seashore and make them bathe.I remarked that many of the slaves were quite merry, andseemed perfectly content with their fate. Others were sad, andseemed filled with dread of their future; for, to lend an addedhorror to the position of these poor creatures, they firmly believethat we whites buy them to eat them. They cannot conceive ofany other use to be made of them; and wherever the slave-tradeis known in the interior, it is believed that the white men beyondsea are great cannibals, who have to import blacks for the market.Thus a chief in the interior country, having a great respect forme, of whom he had often heard, when I made him. my firstvisit, immediately ordered a slave to be killed for my dinner,and it was only with great difficulty I was able to convince himthat I did not, in my own country, live on human flesh.The slaves here seemed of many different tribes, and but feweven understood each other. The slave-trade has become sogreat a traffic (here I speak of the country and foreign tradealike) that it extends from this coast quite to the centre of thecontinent; and I have met slaves on the coast who had beenbrought from much farther in the interior than I ever succeededin reaching. The Shekiani, Bakalai, and many other tribes farinland sell their fellows into slavery on various pretexts (chieflywitchcraft), and thus help to furnish the Sangatanga slave-144 AN UNWELCOME BEDFELLOW. CHAP. XI.barracoons. The large rivers which, joining, form the Nazareth,provide an easy access to the coast, and give Cape Lopez greatadvantages for obtaining a regular supply of slaves; and thecreeks which abound hereabouts afford the vessels good chancesto conceal themselves from the watchful cruisers.I wandered about the town the rest of the day watching thelazy negroes, and did not return to my house till after dark. Istruck a match and set fire to a torch to go to bed by; andcasting my eyes about to see if anything had been disturbed,noticed something glittering and shining under my akoko or lowbamboo bedstead. I did not pay much attention to the object,which did not seem important by the dim light of the torch,till, just as I approached the bed to arrange it, I saw that theglitter was produced by the shining scales of an enormousserpent which lay quietly coiled up there within two feet ofme. My first motion was to retreat behind the door; then Ibethought me to kill it. But unfortunately my two guns wereset against the wall behind the bed, and the snake was betweenme and them. As I stood watching and thinking what to do,keeping the doorway fairly in my rear for a speedy retreat, Inoticed that my visitor did not move, and finally I mustered upcourage to creep along the floor to the bedside and quicklygrasp one gun. Happily it was loaded very heavily with largeshot. I placed the muzzle fairly against one of the coils of theserpent and fired, and then ran out.At the report there was an instant rush of negroes from allsides, eager to know what was the matter. They thought someone had shot a man, and then run into my house for concealment.Of course they all rushed in after, helter-skelter; and as quicklyrushed out again, on finding a great snake writhing about thefloor. Then I went in cautiously to reconnoitre; happily mytorch had kept alight, and I saw the snake on the floor. Myshot had been so closely fired that it had cut the body fairly intwo, and both ends were now lopping about the floor. I gavethe head some blows with a heavy stick, and thus killed theanimal; and then, to my surprise, it disgorged a duck, which ithad probably swallowed that afternoon, and then sought shelterin my hut to digest it quietly. This pretty sleeping companionmeasured eighteen feet in length. I must confess that I dreamedmore than once of serpents that night, for they are my horror.CHAP. XI. PURCHASE OF SLAVES. 145The next morning I paid a visit to the other slave-factory. Itwas a neater place, but arranged much like the first. While Iwas standing there, two young women and a lad of fourteenwere brought in for sale, and bought by the Portuguese in mypresence. The boy brought a twenty-gallon cask of rum, a fewfathoms of cloth, and a quantity of beads. The women soldat a higher rate. Each was valued at the following articles,which were immediately paid over: one gun, one neptune (aflat disk of copper), thirty fathoms of cloth, two iron bars, twocutlasses, two looking- glasses, two files, two plates, two bolts, akeg of powder, a few beads, and a small lot of tobacco. Rumbears a high price in this country.At two o'clock this afternoon a flag was hoisted at the king'spalace on the hill, which signifies that a slaver is in the offing.It proved to be a schooner of about 170 tons' burden. She ranin and hove to a few miles from shore. Immediately I saw issuefrom one of the factories gangs of slaves, who were rapidly drivendown to a point on the shore nearest the vessel. I stood andwatched the embarkation. The men were still chained in gangsof six, but had been washed, and had on clean cloths. Thecanoes were immense boats, managed by twenty-six paddles, andcarrying besides each about sixty slaves. Into these the poorcreatures were now hurried, and a more piteous sight I neversaw. They seemed terrified almost out of their senses; eventhose whom I had seen in the factory to be contented and happywere now gazing about with such mortal terror in their looks asone neither sees nor feels very often in life. They had beencontent to be in the factory, where they were well treated andhad enough to eat. But now they were being taken awaythey knew not whither, and the frightful stories of the whiteman's cannibalism seemed fresh in their minds.But there was no time allowed for sorrow or lamentation.Gang after gang was driven into the canoes until they were full,and then they set out for the vessel, which was dancing about inthe sea in the offing.And now a new point of dread seized the poor wretches, as Icould see, watching them fromthe shore. They had never beenon rough water before, and the motion of the canoe, as itskimmed over the waves and rolled now one way now another,gave them fears of drowning, at which the paddlers broke intoL146 SHIPPING SLAVES. CHAP. XI.a laugh, and forced them to lie down in the bottom of thecanoe.I said the vessel was of 170 tons. Six hundred slaves weretaken off to her, and stowed in her narrow hold. The wholeembarkation did not last two hours, and then, hoisting her whitesails, away she sailed for the South American coast. She hoistedno colours while near the shore, but was evidently recognized bythe people on shore. She seemed an American-built schooner .The vessels are, in fact, Brazilian, Portuguese, Spanish, sometimes Sardinian, but oftenest of all American. Even whalers, Ihave been told, have come to the coast, got their slave cargo,and departed unmolested, and setting it down in Cuba or Brazilreturned to their whaling business no one the wiser. The slavedealers and their overseers on the coast are generally Spanishand Portuguese. One of the head-men at the factories heretold me he had been taken twice on board slave-vessels, ofcourse losing his cargo each time. Once he had been taken intoBrest by a French vessel, but by the French laws he wasacquitted, as the French do not take Portuguese vessels. Hetold me he thought he should make his fortune in a very shorttime now, and then he meant to return to Portugal.The slave-trade is really decreasing. The hardest blow hasbeen struck at it by the Brazilians. They have for some yearsbeen alarmed at the great superiority in numbers of the Africansin Brazil to its white population, and the government and peoplehave united to discourage the trade, and put obstacles in the wayof its successful prosecution. If now the trade to Cuba couldalso be stopped, this would do more to put an end to the wholebusiness than the blockading by all the navies of the world.It is impossible for any limited number of vessels to effectuallyguard 4000 miles of coast. Eight or ten years ago, when I was onthe coast of Africa, the British kept some 26 vessels of lightdraught on the coast, several of which were steamers, while therest were good sailers. The French also had 26 vessels there,and the Americans their complement. But, with all this forceto hinder, the slave-trade was never more prosperous. Thedemand in Brazil and Cuba was good, and barracoons wereestablished all along the coast. Many vessels were taken, butmany more escaped. The profits are so great that the slavedealers could afford to send really immense fleets, and countCHAP. XI. DECAY OF THE SLAVE-TRADE.147with almost mathematical certainty on making a great profitfrom those which escaped the cruisers. The barracoons wereshifted from place to place to escape the vigilance of the menof- war; and no sooner was one of these dépôts broken up thananother was established in some neighbouring creek or bay. Sogreat was the demand that fearful atrocities were sometimespractised on innocent negroes by shrewd captains, who begrudgedeven the small price they had to pay for slaves. Thus it isrelated of one that he invited a number of friendly natives onboard of his vessel, then shut them under hatches, and sailedaway with them to Cuba to sell them.A pregnant sign of the decay of the business is that thoseengaged in it begin to cheat each other. I was told by Portuguese on the coast that within two or three years the conduct ofCuban houses had been very bad. They had received cargoafter cargo, and when pressed for pay had denied and refused.Similar complaints are made of other houses; and it is saidthat now a captain holds on to his cargo till he sees thedoubloons, and takes the gold in one hand while he sends theslaves over the side with the other. While the trade was briskthey had no occasion to quarrel. As the profits become moreprecarious, each will try to cut the other's throat.Now there are not many barracoons north of the equator,and the chief trade centres about the mouth of the Congo. Thelawful trade has taken the place of the slave traffic to the northward; and if the French will only abolish their system of " apprenticeship, " lawful trade might soon make its way to the south.When the schooner sailed I visited the king, and wasannounced to his majesty by the great mafouga. On my wayto the king's house I passed three little houses, in which I wasthen told were deposited five idols, which, I knew, were considered the most powerful on all the coast from Banoko toMayombai. They are thought to be the great protectors of allthe Oroungou tribes, and are themselves placed near the king'shouse, who delights to do them honour, and whom they protectfrom all evil.The five idols are deposited in three houses. Pangeo, a maleidol, is married to Aleka, and the two stand together in onehouse. Pangeo is the special protector of the king and his people,and watches over them by night, keeping off every evil.L 2148 IDOL WORSHIP. CHAP. XI.Makambi, a second male idol, is married to Abiala, and theyhave a second house to themselves. Poor Makambi is a powerless god, his wife having usurped the power. She holds a pistolin her hand, with which it is supposed she can kill any one shepleases for which reason the natives fear her greatly. Sheprotects them from various evils: and when they are sick theyimplore her to make them well, and bring her presents of foodto propitiate her.Last comes a bachelor-god, Numba, who is the OroungouNeptune and Mercury in one, keeping off the evils which are tocome from beyond sea and ruling the waves. He has the thirdhouse all to himself.These idols are all large, and very rudely carved and ornamented. The people seem to place great value upon them. Ioffered 20 dollars for one, but was told I could not buy it for100 slaves even, which is as much as to say that it was not tobe bought.CHAP. XII. START FOR THE INTERIOR. 149-CHAPTER XII-Set out for the Interior — Prairies — Odd Mistake —Hippopotami —Ngola –Negro Theology —Hunts - Torture of a Woman Rum---―-The ShekianiAppearance, Manners, and Customs - Polygamy -Marriage - Super- stitions Bos brachicheros -Camp in the Woods - - African Humour·Solid Comfort - Hunting with a Leopard - Great Jollification - Superstition about the Leopard - Elephant-shooting — Meeting a Boa - Stalkingthe wild Bull - Return to Sangatanga —I am accused of Sorcery — Idols- Bango's Treasures -Burial-ground of the Barracoons Disgusting Sights 1--- Status of Slaves in Africa Oroungou Cemetery -An African Wateringplace- Fetich Point.WHEN I asked the king for permission to go into the interioron a hunt, he immediately gave me twenty-five men to carrymy luggage and help me in hunting. Of these, three were hisMajesty's own slaves, and reputed the greatest hunters in thecountry. They were the providers of the royal table, and passedtheir lives in the hunt and in the bush. They killed elephantson his account, bringing him home the ivory.I desired to penetrate into the hitherto unexplored interior ofthis latitude till we should meet the Nazareth River, which I wastold we should do at the distance of about one hundred miles tothe east. For their services I agreed to give the men twentyfathoms of cotton cloth each, if they behaved themselves faithfully towards me. They seemed very willing to go, and wellsatisfied with the bargain.In two days I was fully prepared for a start. As we were tomeet elephants, leopards, buffaloes, and the gorilla, I providedmyself with a good supply of bullets. I was told that game wasvery plentiful in all the region I was now to visit, people beingscarce, and the country more favourable than in those regionsnorth of the Gaboon which I had just explored; and this reportI found correct.The night before we were to start, I slept in a dirty room atthe king's house, at his majesty's request, who apparently thoughthe was doing me a great grace. Finally, on the morning of the23rd, we got under way. I had slept scarcely at all during the150 A SINGULAR MISTAKE. CHAP. XII.night on account of the assaults and gambols of a prodigiousnumber of rats, who seemed anxious to dispute possession withme of my room, so that I astonished my men by getting themup at an unusually early hour. At half-past five we werealready on the march, myself ahead, with Aboko, my head-man,and Niamkala, the next best, at my side, and four other hunters,and twenty-three young men, as bearers and assistants, following us.The way led through some beautiful prairies, each surroundedby dark forests, and seeming like natural gardens planted in thewilderness. It does not need much time to get into the " backwoods " here. By three o'clock Aboko announced to me that wewere now where any moment we might come upon elephants orbuffalo; and in a short time, sure enough, we saw a bull standingdeer-like upon the edge of the wood, watching us. He stoodfor some minutes, safe out of range, and then turned into thewood, evidently not liking our appearance. We ran round tointercept its tract, and I waited at one pass in the wood forAboko and two others to get clear round and drive the bulltowards me. Suddenly I saw something approaching me out ofthe deep gloom of the forest, but, looking closely, took it to beone of my men. It came towards me, and I walked unsuspiciously forward to a clear space. Here the thing caught sightof me, and, with a shrill scream, ran back into the woods. Thenfirst I knew that in the dark (for in these forests daylight isalmost shut out) I had mistaken a chimpanzee for a man. Iwas vexed; for the beast was but about thirty yards off whenit ran, and I could have shot it easily. Presently my menreturned, and had a hearty laugh at me for my mistake, whichthey did not take unkindly, seeing no resemblance, but imputingthe mistake to my ignorance, and in part, I afterwards found, tolack of courage on my part. Of their mistake in this last regardI fortunately had a chance to convince them afterwards.Starting on again, we shortly killed a gazelle, which was takenalong for supper. And now we seemed to be really in a gamecountry. For the first time I enjoyed my prospects; for thoughwe saw only single beasts—now a chimpanzee rushing into thewoods at a great distance ahead, then a ngivo ( a singular animal,of the size of a donkey, with shorter legs, no horns, and black,with a yellow spot on the back-probably a new animal) , andCHAP. XII. A CAMP IN THE PRAIRIE. 151again a gazelle or two, flying quickly out of range-yet we sawalso abundance of tracks, particularly of the elephant; and, onthe whole, I could see that we should have some famous hunts.But I felt that I should have brought my rifle, at least for thiscountry, for the grass was so short that on the prairies it wasimpossible to approach an animal within the range of mydouble-barrelled guns, which were better calculated for closequarters.At six we camped in the midst of a prairie, my men collectingfrom the nearest forest an immense quantity of firewood, andbuilding fires which must have been visible at a great distance.Our supper was of roast venison and plantains-good enough forsuch hungry fellows as we; and shortly after seven we all turnedin; that is to say, we stretched ourselves with our feet to thefires, and wrapped up, I in my blankets, and the men in whatever they could get together of leaves and grass. No wonderthe poor fellows love a fire. They are very lightly dressed, andthe winds here near the equator as it is, in the dry season arevery bleak and cold when the sun is not up to warm them.I could not rest well for cold, though I had a thick blanket about me.Wehad travelled about twenty-five miles-ten towards E.N.E.—through a really beautiful country, rolling and hilly, mostlyprairie, as I have said, with a light sandy soil, and with forestslooking rather like beautiful green islands in the midst of theclear spaces. The woods are the safe retreats of great herds ofthe wild buffalo (Bos brachicheros) , and of antelopes, which comeinto the great grass-fields by night to play and feed.Withal the country was much broken up, and the highest hillsbroke off in abrupt precipices, on which one would come suddenly, and look down sometimes a hundred feet and even moreinto little vales which led to other hills, and in whose quietgloom we could sometimes distinguish animals walking or lyingdown. One gorge we had to cross on a huge tree; but this wasthe channel of a stream which flowed down towards the sea. Wecrossed three or four little streams, all clear and beautiful; but,unless the deeper dales have more water (as I imagine theyhave) , the country is not well watered.The night was clear and very chilly for Africa, and I couldnot sleep, though I had placed my boxes to windward for shelter.152 A CARAVAN. CHAP. XII.So about two o'clock I roused everybody up to move on,thinking it easier to keep warm in motion than while lying still.The men were very glad. Poor fellows! they had suffered morethan I. Fortunately it was bright moonlight, and we could seeour way clearly across the prairie. A couple of hours' sharpwalking brought us to a thick wood so situated as to shelter usfrom the wind. Here we quickly built a tremendous fire, andagain stretched out for a short nap, which lasted till six, orsunrise, when the cry of the gray partridge (Francolinus squamatus) aroused us.Sunrise found us under way again; and before us a finestretch of prairie, on whose farther borders were quietly grazingseveral herds of buffalo, which quickly ran into the woods.While they remained they gave the wild a singularly civilizedappearance. It looked like a great grazing farm in June, withcattle, and hay almost ready for harvest; a fine, quiet, oldcountry picture here in the wilds of Africa.Towards nine o'clock we came to a large pool or lakelet, andhere I saw for the first time a hippopotamus. A dozen of thesevast unwieldy creatures were sporting and snorting in the water,now popping their huge unshapely heads out, and then diving tothe bottom. Aboko persuaded me not to kill any of them, as hejustly remarked we could not have got them out of the water;and the proper way is to take them when they come on shore atnight to feed.Shortly after we came to an open space, and saw in the distance what I took at first to be a herd of buffalo, but whichproved to be a caravan approaching us. When they saw usthey prepared for trouble—for here there is no law, and everyman's hand is against his brother. The greater number hid inthe grass; and, after some reconnoitring, four fellows, wellarmed, came towards us to ask if it was peace or war. Whenthey saw me, they were at once filled with surprise, and, losingtheir fears in their amazement at seeing a white man far in theinterior, began to shout out to their company to come and seethe Otangani.I was immediately surrounded by a curious crowd, most ofwhom had never seen a white man before, though it was evidentthey had had dealings with their black agents. They were boundsouth and east with tobacco, salt, and goods, and intended toCHAP. XII. NGOLA. 153bring back slaves and ivory. They were Shekianis, who are theprevailing people in the interior hereabouts.We left them in the midst of their wonder, being anxious toget on to a village which we reached about the middle of theafternoon. This village, Ngola by name, was the residence of aShekiani chief named Njambai, a vassal of King Bango, who hadsent word by Aboko that I was to be entertained as long as Iliked to stay and hunt. It contained about fifty neat bamboohouses, running in a double row along a long street, in theAfrican fashion. But the whole place had a pleasing look ofneatness which was not peculiarly African. It lies sixty milesdue east from Sangatanga.As we approached, the women caught sight of me and ranscreaming into the houses. It is curious that nothing excites somuch terror in an interior African village as the appearance ofa white man. The women and children run for their lives,and seem to be afraid that the mere sight of a white will killthem. Here, however, the men did not seem to be afraid, as mycannibal friends were; and, though Njambai had never beforeseen a white man, he received me very courteously. Abokodelivered King Bango's message, to which Njambai replied tome that he owned all the country hereabouts, and I should haveas many men to help me hunt it as I wished. All which beingsatisfactorily arranged, I was escorted to the house of the king'sbrother, which, being the most commodious in the town, was setapart for my use.Njambai's house was built, as the rest, of bamboo, roofed withpalm-leaves, and floored with hardened clay. Everything insidewas very neat; the walls were hung with a few coloured pictures,sent probably by Bango; and, though there were no chairs, therewere two wooden benches covered with mats, on which the kingand I sat while conversing. The house was about twenty feetlong, by ten high and ten deep, and had a neat veranda in front.I could see that the old fellow was vastly delighted at my visit,for it was an honour that had hitherto (luckily for me) befallennone of his rival chiefs. I was sure, therefore, to be well treated.In fact, I had the best house, and had hardly arranged my thingswhen dinner was ready for me, consisting of boiled and roastplantains, sweet potatoes, boiled fowls, and roast monkey-ofwhich last dish I did not on this occasion partake, as monkey154 NEGRO THEOLOGY. CHAP. XII.seems too much like man until you get very hungry. Afterdinner I sent the king some heads of Virginia tobacco, which wasthe most welcome present I could make him, American tobaccobeing very scarce in the interior, and much better than the nativeweed. He sent me in return a splendid bundle of sugarcane.Altogether, Ngola surprised me. So much neatness I did notexpect to find among the natives. The long street had not evena weed. Shinshooko's house, in which I was living, was largeand commodious, equal to the Sangatanga houses; and the doorwas even provided with lock and key, so that when my baggagewas all stowed away the worthy Shinshooko brought me thekey, and gave me to understand that his people might steal ifthey were tempted by open doors. The village is sixty milesnearly due east from Sangatanga; and, though no white manhad ever been seen here, I yet saw many marks of white civilization around me,The next day was Sunday, and I remained quietly in myhousereading the Scriptures, and thankful to have a day of rest andreflection. My hunters could scarcely be prevailed upon not tohunt; they declared that Sunday might do for white people, butthe blacks had nothing to do with it. Indeed, when customsthus come in contact, the only answer the negro has to make—and it applies to everything-is, that the God who made thewhites is not the God who made the blacks.Then the king and a good many of his people gathered aboutme, and we astonished each other with our talk. I told themthat their fetiches and greegrees were of no use, and had nopower, and that it was absurd to expect anything of a merewooden idol that a man had made and could burn up. Also,that there was no such thing as witchcraft, and that it was verywrong to kill people who were accused of it; that there was onlyone God, whom the whites and blacks must alike love and depend on. All this elicited only grunts of surprise and incredulity.Then the king took up the conversation, and remarked thatwe white men were much favoured by our God, who was so kindas to send us guns and powder from heaven.Whereupon the king's brother remarked that it must be veryfine to have rivers of alougou (rum) flowing through our countryall the year round, and that he would like to live on the banksof such a river.CHAP. XII. UNLIMITED OFFERS OF MARRIAGE. 155Hereupon I said that we made our own guns-which no onepresent seemed to believe; and that there were no rivers of rum,which seemed a disappointment to several.Next the king, who is a man of a kind heart and given tobursts of liberality, informed me that, in honour of my coming tostay with him, he would place all the women of the village at mycommand. This I declined, saying that white men thought itvery wrong to abuse women, and that in my country each manhad but one wife (I did not mention the Mormons), and was notallowed to have two or more. This seemed to them the toughestyarn of all. They gave a general shout of astonishment, andeven the women said this was a curious law, and not good.Altogether, I think they must have thought white men a verysingular people; and perhaps a negro's account of Americawould be quite as curious, and interesting, and one-sided, as awhite man's account of Africa.The next day my hunters started out before daylight, sayingthey were determined to lose no time, for fear I should wantto stay in the house another day. They have a species of dryhumour, these black fellows, and this was a specimen of it.There was a large party of us, as some ofthe best hunters ofthetown were to go with us. I gave them all powder-guns theyall have, such as they are-and we divided into two parties,Aboko going separately, with one or two attendants, on aleopard-hunt, while I took the great crowd with me into theforest for what we should find. By noon we were back withmore game than I had ever shot before in one day in Africa,though, to be sure, none of it was large. But myjoy was great,for among the animals I myself killed was a new and hithertounknown variety of the Guinea-fowl, and a most beautiful bird.Only a naturalist can conceive my pleasure at this discovery.The crested Guinea-fowl (Numida plumifera), as this bird iscalled, is a new bird. It is one of the handsomest of all theGuinea-fowls yet discovered. Its head is naked, the skin beingof a deep bluish-black tinge, and is crowned with a tuft ofstraight, erect, narrow, downy feathers standing in a bunch closetogether. The upper part of the neck, the throat, and the occiput are covered with short, dark feathers in the male, and arenaked in the female. The plumage of the body is of a finebluish-black ground, variegated with numerous eyes of white156 TOILS OF A NATURALIST. CHAP. XII.slightly tinged with blue. The bill and legs are coloured a blueblack similar to the skin of the head. The secondary quills ofthe wings have the outer nibs white. The total length of thebird I shot this day was seventeen inches.This bird is not found in the forests near the seashore, but isfirst met with, as I afterwards ascertained, about fifty miles eastof Sangatanga. It is very shy, but marches in large flocksthrough the woods, where the traveller hears its loud voice. Itutters a kind of " quack," hoarse and discordant, like the voicesof other Guinea-fowls. It avoids the path left by travellers; butit* own tracks are met everywhere in the woods it frequents, asthe flock scratch and tear up the ground wherever they stop. Itis strong of wing, and sleeps by night on the tops of high trees,a flock generally roosting together on the same tree. Whensurprised by the hunter they do not fly in a body, but scatter inevery direction. Thus it is a difficult bird to get, and the nativesdo not often get a shot at it.I had eaten nothing before going out in the morning, and wastherefore glad to get my dinner and breakfast in one before commencing to stuff my prizes. And I am sure never bird-fancieror stuffer took more pains with a specimen than I with my brilliant Guinea-fowl. It was carefully put away with a curiousblack monkey ( Colobus Satanus), and both were sent to Sangatanga by the most careful man I could find. By the time I haddone I had a bad headache, and was not sorry when Abokocame in without having shot anything; for in these latitudeswhen an animal is shot it must be stuffed without loss of time,else the ants eat it up.I was so tired that I went to bed early, but got scarcely anysleep at all. The whole town was in uproar all night. Thepeople had a general jollification in honour of my staying amongthem so long. Fortunately I was not called out to make aspeech, or take any other part in the ceremonies. It was badenough to listen to the singing, shouting, dancing, and uproariousmerriment. The next day I had a worse headache, and did nothunt; but stayed in town, and was exhibited to great numbersof curious Shekianis who trooped in from neighbouring villagesto see the white man. Of course, Njambai was in ecstacies overthe excitement. These people had never seen a white manbefore, and examined me with a curious mixture of fear andCHAP. XII. A WOMAN TORTURED. 157wonder. My hair especially excited their astonishment. Manyof them said I must be a spirit (mbuiri) , and seemed to hold mein great awe.My hunters brought in towards evening a great quantity ofmonkeys, on whose flesh they feasted, while I had to sit downand stuff eight of the rarest specimens before going to bed, asthey would not keep. Fortunately all was quiet, and when mywork was done I was able to go to sleep. It was one of theirsuperstitious times. There was something the matter with themoon. I was unable to learn what, nor do I believe they knewexactly themselves; but every man covered his body with redand white chalk-marks, and went to bed.I did not go out the next day, and counted myself lucky thatI did not, for I was able to save the life of a poor woman whowas being killed with the most horrible tortures. After dinner,as I was reading, I heard a woman crying out as if in great pain.On my asking what was the matter, a man told me the kingwas punishing one of his wives; and some others hintedthat I had better go and try to save her life. I hurried overto the king's house, and there, in front of the veranda, aspectacle met my eyes which froze my blood with horror. Awoman, naked, was tied by the middle to a stout stake driveninto the ground. Her legs were stretched out and fastenedto other smaller stakes, and stout cords were bound roundher neck, waist, ankles, and wrists. These cords were beingtwisted with sticks, and when I arrived the skin was alreadybursting from the terrible compression. A great crowd ofspectators were standing around, not much excited. I supposethey were used to such scenes.I walked up, and, taking the king by the arm, asked him torelease the poor wretch for my sake, and not to kill her. WhenI spoke, the twisting ceased. The executioners seemed willingenough to suspend operations. The king hesitated, and was notwilling to be balked of his revenge. He walked into his house.I followed him, and threatened to leave his town immediately ifhe did not release her. Finally he gave in, and said, “ Let herloose yourself. I give her to you. '""I rushed immediately, and, being unable to untie the savagecords, cut them with my knife. The poor creature was coveredwith blood. Some of the ropes had penetrated so deeply that158 PHASIDUS NIGER. CHAP. XII.the flesh had burst open, and she bled freely. However, shewas not seriously hurt; and I thanked God in my heart thatI had been able to save her life. I went immediately in to theking and made him promise me that he would not punishher again. Then I asked what she had done to deserve suchpunishment. He said she had stolen the bead belt whichhe usually wore around his waist and given it to her lover-aheinous offence truly.Then, to change the current of his ebony majesty's thoughts,I pointed out to him a small bird sitting upon the top of a hightree near his house, and said I could kill that bird. He said itwas impossible, as I knew he would, The negroes are poormarksmen. I sent for my gun, took aim, and brought down thebird, amid the loud shouts of his majesty and the populace.They examined my gun, which had a cap-lock, and was a greatwonder to them, as, of course, they use only flint-locks. Thenthey said I had a greegree or fetich to help me shoot. No onewho had not a powerful charm could do such things, theythought.Then, to clinch their good- humour, I brought out my matchbox and struck a light. This has never failed to get me agreat reputation among the interior negroes. It is a trickwhich seems to them the most marvellous of all, and theseShekianis were never tired of seeing me "make fire."The next day I went out hunting by myself, and, to my greatjoy, shot another new bird, a black wild-fowl (Phasidus niger),one of the most singular birds I have seen in Africa, andthe discovery of which I rank as next in importance to that ofthe new Guinea-fowl described before. Indeed, of the sixtynew birds I was able to add to the list of known African birds,these two seem to me the most interesting.The Phasidus niger is about eighteen inches long, includingthe tail-feathers. Its head and the upper part of its neck arebare or naked, with the exception of a longitudinal strip ofshort black feathers which runs from the base of the bill to theocciput, ending abruptly. The head, where it is bare, is inthe female of a pink hue, and in the male of a bright scarlet.The throat, in front, has very short feathers. When I saw thisbird for the first time in the woods, I thought I saw before me adomestic chicken. The natives have noticed the resemblanceA.CHAP. XII. DESTRUCTIVENESS OF ANTS. 159too, as their name for it shows: couba iga, signifying wild- fowl.Wild they are, and most difficult to approach; and also rare,even in the forests where they are at home. They are not foundat all on the sea- coast, and do not appear until the travellerreaches the range of fifty or sixty miles from the coast. Eventhere they are so rare that, though I looked out for themconstantly, I killed but three in all my expeditions. Theyare not gregarious, like the Guinea-fowl, but wander throughthe woods, a male and one or, at most, two females in company.They are very watchful, and fly off to retreats in the woodsat the slightest alarm.I begin now to have so many animals on hand that I find Icannot go as far as the Nazareth. The risk of losing all mycollection is too great; and the trouble of taking care of itis greater still. The ants-those little pests—are constantly onthe look-out for prey; and it is impossible to leave a deadanimal about for the shortest time without imminent risk ofhaving it destroyed. Let the reader bear in mind that not onlyhas the hunter-naturalist in these African backwoods to kill hisgame, which may occupy all day, but when he comes home tiredhe must immediately stuff it that it may not spoil, and thenit must be suspended by strings from the rafters of the house tokeep the ants off. The slightest carelessness may bring ruinupon his most cherished specimens; and I have more than oncebeen reduced to the brink of despair by finding a choice bird orother animal in one night, and through one slight oversight inthe preparation of the suspending cord, completely riddled andruined by the ants before morning.I told the king that I must return to Sangatanga, and thenbegan to pack my animals and skeletons in such parcels aswould be handy to carry. We are to start early to-morrow(30th), and this evening I distributed all my tobacco among thepeople of the village. They have treated me well, and deservedthis trifle, which is to them a great favour.The king gave me, as provision for my route, a chicken, halfa-dozen eggs, and twelve bunches of plantains. I promisedto send him from Sangatanga 25 heads of tobacco, a pieceof cloth, a glass full of powder, three pipes, and some beads.He added a particular request for some rum, to which I did notagree.160 PECULIARITIES OF THE SHEKIANIS. CHAP. XII.Then he said that I must come again and see him, and staylonger, and I should have his best hunters to help me."But,"added he, " when you come don't forget to bring some rum."And so he went on, begging this, and promising that, but alwaysrecurring to the rum. Poor old king! how he would haveenjoyed a trip to Sangatanga, where he might have got hisfill of his beloved rum. For my part, I made it a pointof principle during my travels in Africa never to give a negrorum.When we were ready to start, the king sent his son with meto bring back his presents, and desired me particularly notto forget the rum. Saying which, he gave me, as a souvenir, anold clay pipe, black with age and use, which he seemed to havea great affection for. He desired me to carry it to my owncountry, and tell the people that this had been the favouritepipe of King Njambai.I penetrated , on different occasions, as far as twenty miles dueeast of Njambai's town, but found the country nowise differentfrom that already described. As this is the last time we are tocome in contact with the Shekiani tribe in these pages, it seemsa proper place to give the reader some general information concerning this large and important tribe.The Shekiani tribe, and those people who are closely allied tothem and speak various dialects of their language, occupy aportion of the sea-shore and interior as far as 80 miles fromthe sea-from the banks of the Muni and Moondah down as farsouth as the banks of the Ogobay. Through this great extent ofcountry they are scattered in villages, having nowhere anycentral point of union, and living, for the most part, in theneighbourhood of Mpongwe and Bakalai people. Still theymanage to keep up their nationality. In some parts theyare most numerous near the coast; in others they range as thesecond, third, and even fourth tribe inland. Thus they aresettled near the mouth of the Muni and Moondah, and inhabitthe sea-shore between the latter river and the Gaboon; whilesouth of the Gaboon they have given way to the Mpongwe, andhave their villages in the interior.In person they are of ordinary size, generally light- colouredfor negroes, and not so fine-looking as the Mpongwe or Mbengas.They are warlike, treacherous, much given to trading, and areCHAP. XII. MODE OF WARFARE. 161real cheats. They are ardent hunters, and have sufficientcourage and great skill in woodcraft, being very lithe and active,light of foot, and cunning in their manoeuvres to approach theirprey. They are quarrelsome, and have constant "palaverseither with their own villages or those of other tribes. Theyhave but little clan feeling, and the intercourse betweenneighbouring villages of Shekiani is not always friendly, andscarcely ever intimate. The men, in common with all otherAfrican men I have met, have little or no taste for agriculture;they leave the culture of the ground to their women and slaves.The sea-shore Shekianis own many slaves, but those of the interior but few.Shekiani Spoons.In their warfare cunning has a most important part. Theylaugh at the courage of the white man who faces his enemy, anddelight most in ambushes and sudden surprises. If one man hasa quarrel with another, he lies in wait for him, shoots him as heis passing by the way, and immediately retreats. Then, of course,the dead man's friends take up his quarrel; then ensue otherambushes and murders; frequently a dozen villages are involvedin the palaver, and the killing and robbing goes on for monthsand even years, each party acting as occasion offers. Thisbreeds a feeling of insecurity which is destructive to all settledhabits. Often, to escape assassination, a whole village movesaway and builds anew at some distance; and perhaps then theenemy reaches them, or new complications arise, giving cause fornew murders.Withal they are not bloodthirsty, but simply careless of humanlife, passionate, and revengeful.M162 THE MARRIAGE RELATION. CHAP. XII.Polygamy of course prevails among them, and takes rank as apolitical institution, as has been already explained. A man findsit to his interest to marry into as many influential families inhis own and other tribes as he can, and thus extends his tradeconnexions and his influence and authority. But, on the otherhand, it is the cause of nearly all the palavers and wars theyhave. The men are continually intriguing with strange women,and when caught are murdered, or get their town in trouble.Female chastity is little valued; and one great cause of thegradual decrease of this and other tribes is found in the factthat they force their females to marry at so early an age thatthey never become mothers. Children are promised in marriage at the age of three or four years, or even at birth; andgirls are actually wives at eight and nine, and sometimesearlier. They have children at thirteen or fourteen, but ofcourse the women age early, and the majority die young andchildless.Though chastity is not valued for itself, adultery is a seriousoffence among townsmen. It is punished by fines, graduatedaccording to the means of the offender; and many men are soldannually into slavery where the fine cannot be levied in anyother way. Sometimes the guilty man compromises by workingfor a certain time for the injured husband, and sometimes bloodalone heals the difficulty.Each man has generally a head or chief wife-mostly thewoman he married first; and for anyone to have criminalintercourse with this woman ranks as a most heinous crime, forwhich the offender is at least sold into slavery. When thehusband forms new marriage connexions, and, as often happens,his new bride is but a child, she is then put under the care andguardianship of the head wife, who brings her up to the properage. They marry also with their slave women; but the childrenof these women, though free, have less influence and positionamong the people than the children of free women. Frequentlythe women desert their husbands for abuse or other causes, andrun off to other villages; and, as it is a point of honour toreturn no fugitives of this kind, here is another fertile source ofpalaver and war.The women are treated very harshly. The men take careto put all the hardest work on their wives, who raise the crops,CHAP. XII. SUPERSTITIONS. 163gather firewood, bear all kinds of burdens; and, where thebar-wood trade is carried on, as it is now by many Shekianivillages, the men only cut down the trees and split them intobillets, which the women are then forced to bear on theirbacks through the forests and jungle down to the river-banks,as they have but rude paths, and beasts of burden are unknownin all this part of Africa. This is the most severe toil imaginable, as the loads have to be carried often six or seven miles ormore.The Shekiani tribe is divided into clans, and, though thesefamilies grow very large sometimes, marriage between membersof the same clan is prohibited. Children add much to a man'sconsequence, especially boys; and a fruitful woman enjoys, forthis reason, great favour. In cases where, as frequently happens, the head of the family is old and decrepit, the mother ofmany children has no questions asked her. They know nothingscarcely of the care of children, and lose a great proportionthrough mistaken treatment in infancy.Though they have villages, they may almost be called anomadic people. They are continually moving about thecountry, shifting their quarters for such causes as a palaver witha neighbouring town, the death of the chief, or a belief that theirvillage is bewitched. Then they gather up all their householdgoods, and, collecting what provision they can, move off in abody, sometimes many weary miles away.Wambee: the Shekiani Banjo.Their superstitions are of the most degrading and barbarouscharacter. I shall mention here only that the belief in witchcraft is general, and causes much misery; while of idols, eviland good spirits, greegrees, fetiches, and charms, there seems noM 2164 A BUFFALO SHOT. CHAP. XII.end. The whole subject of religious superstitions I shall treatin detail in another chapter.In different localities the Shekianis are known by sub-names,and the chief of these are the Mbondemo or Ndemo, the Mbicho,the Ntaimou, and the Acoa-the last inhabiting the interiorbetween Gaboon and Cape Lopez-the Mbiki, the Mbousha, andthe Ibouay. All these speak dialects of the Shekiani, but holdthemselves to be separate tribes. The location of all these littlenations will be found on the map.We set out on our return to Sangatanga on the 30th . I didnot intend to proceed immediately to the coast, but desired toremain a couple of weeks at least in the forest and prairies bythe way, as I saw that away from the villages I should havebetter chances to hunt the shyer animals, and those which Iwas most anxious to procure. I made arrangements by whichthe king promised to give to such men as I sent in suppliesof food for my party from time to time; and having thusprovided against that trouble which is the most constantlybesetting the traveller in this country, and secured myselfa*gainst actual starvation, even if we had poor success in hunting, I set out in good spirits. We passed by a road or pathslightly diverging from the one I had come out on, which gaveme a chance to see some new landscapes. It was a beautifullyclear day, with a cool breeze blowing, which made the longprairies quite endurable.Towards three o'clock we saw before us a little lake on theborders of the prairie, and, while looking at the water, I sawbetween it and ourselves a solitary buffalo. I was a little inadvance of my party, who lay down, while I tried to approach.The grass was very short, and I was afraid of being seen; butfortunately the bull presently entered a patch of high grassthrough which he could not see me, and now I advanced quicklywithin range. Just as he emerged into the open I fired. Hegave a deep roar of rage, and without a moment's hesitationdashed towards me. I had my other barrel ready, and hadraised my gun to give him the second bullet, when he gave alittle leap and tumbled down head first-dead.When my fellows saw this they set up a hurrah of joy andhurried to the prize. It was at once skinned, and the best partsof the meat taken off. We camped at the lake-side, and had roastCHAP. XII. A PERMANENT CAMP. 165buffalo for supper. My men are all as fat as pigs, having livedhigh on monkeys and other game ever since we left Sangatanga.They account me a great and successful hunter, and seem tothink they have never had such a " good time."We were now about fifteen miles from Njambai's village; andafter sleeping a night over the matter, I concluded to make mypermanent camp in this pretty prairie, where we were near waterand had a wide stretch of forest on one side of us for our hunts.The men thought it a good place, one likely to afford us goodsport, especially as the lake was likely to draw beasts to its banksto drink. Accordingly, we spent a whole day in arranging ourencampment in such a way as to make everything comfortableand secure. Fortunately it is now the dry season, and we haveno rain, but only the cold night- winds to fear. With branchesof trees we built ourselves shelters which should protect us fromthe wind. I had my boxes piled in a solid mass to windward ofmy own bed; and, having locked everything up, threatened toshoot the first man who stole anything from me. Then we builtlight roofs of leafy branches over our sleeping-places, arrangedthe fires, and behold! a village. In the midst of our work cameten slaves of Njambai laden with plantains, which the good fellow had sent after me-a most welcome supply.When all was done, and we were ready for supper, I againwarned my men to be honest and keep their fingers at home.They are good fellows; but I have found that, while all savagessteal, in this part of the country- where the slave-trade prevails,and where the negroes have come in contact with the lowest classof whites-they are much greater thieves than is even usual withthem. So I threatened to kill the first man I caught troublingmy property-to shoot without mercy; " and then," said I, withgreat sternness, " when I have blown your brains out, I willsettle the matter with your king."To which Aboko coolly replied that the settlement was notlikely to do them any particular good—another little specimenof African humour.Of course they all protested loudly that they were honest;but I knew their temptations, poor fellows! and had more confidence in their faith that I would certainly kill the thief thanin their good resolutions.When this little matter was settled, we drew around the fire.166 AN EVENING IN THE WOODS. CHAP. XII.The sun was just setting. In a huge kettle suspended over thefire was boiling a quantity of the juicy buffalo-meat; before uswas a great pile of roasted plantains; and so, seating ourselvesabout the immense fire, for the evening was growing chilly,we took a hearty supper together; I eating off a plate andusing a fork — which vestiges of civilisation I have alwaysmanaged to carry along —while the black fellows took freshleaves for plates and used the " black man's fork," as they calltheir five fingers.66After dinner they drank a jug of palm-wine, which had beenbrought from Ngola; and then, to crown their feast with thegreatest delight of all, I went to my box, and, lifting the lid,while the shining black faces peered at me with saucer-eyes ofexpectation, took out a huge head of Kentucky tobacco. Thisbrought down the house," so to speak; there was a wildhurrah of joy as I distributed a good portion to each, and in afew minutes all were lying about the fire smoking, with thatpeculiar air of utter content into which the African falls soreadily at the slightest opportunity of fire and tobacco- smoke.Then ensued wild stories of hunting-adventures, of witchcraft,and evil spirits, well fitting the rude picturesque surroundings;and they lay there talking and talking, till at last I wasobliged to remind them that it was one o'clock, and time tofeel sleepy.The negroes have a particular delight in lying around a comfortable fire at night and telling stories, and I have often foundthem thus engaged late at night when entering a village.The next morning (June 1st) Aboko and I went out in searchof elephants, while Niamkala went with some other men to huntfor wild pigs, and, if he could find them, gorilla and chimpanzee.I had poor luck, killing only a few small monkeys and birds, ofno value; but as we were returning to the camp I had quiteunexpectedly, as such good luck generally comes, the great shotof the day. As Aboko and I were walking carelessly along Iheard the cry of a gray partridge near by, and turned back toget a shot if possible, as they are fine eating. As I pushed intothe grass-we were just on the edge of the forest-I saw suddenly several buffalo, one of which I made sure of, as he stooda little in advance of the rest, and the grass was high enoughfor a stealthy approach. Aboko and I advanced slowly towardsENCAMPED FOR THE NIGHT .

CHAP. XII. STALKING A LEOPARD. 167the unconscious bull, who stood a fair mark; and I was about toraise my gun when Aboko made a quick sign to hold still andlisten. As we stood perfectly motionless I heard, at apparentlya little distance before us, a low purring sound, which mighthave been taken by a careless ear for the sound of the windpassing through the grass. But to Aboko's quick ear it betokened something else. His face grew very earnest, and hewhispered to me " Njego," which is Shekiani for leopard.The noise continued, and we moved slowly and very cautiouslya few steps ahead to get a position where we could see over thegrass. The position was not a pleasant one. The leopard comesout generally by night only, and nothing but extreme hungerwill bring him out of his lair in open day. Now, when he ishungry, he is also unusually savage and quick in his motions.We knew the animal was near, but could not by any means geta sight of him. As the wind blew from it towards us, I perceivedplainly a strong and peculiar odour which this animal gives out,and this proved more decidedly that it could not be far off. Thethought passed through my mind—was it watching us? Did itseyes penetrate the grass which we could not see through? If so,was it perhaps getting ready to spring?Meantime our buffalo-bull stood stupidly before his herd nottwenty yards from us, utterly innocent of the presence of somany of his formidable enemies, and little suspecting the curiouscirc*mstances to which he was about to owe his life.Just then we moved a little to one side, and, peering throughan opening in the grass, I beheld an immense leopard, a female,with a tiny little leopardling near her side. The beast saw usat the same moment, turning her head quickly at some slightnoise we made. She had been watching the buffalo so intentlyas not to notice our approach. As I watched her, it seemed tome as though a curious look of indecision passed over her face.She, too, had more game than she had looked for, and waspuzzled which to attack first. Her long tail wagged from side toside, and her eyes glared as she sought for a moment for adecision. But I saved her the trouble; for in less time than ittakes to write it down I had put a ball into her head, which,luckily for us, relieved her of further care for prey. At thesame time Aboko fired into the little leopard and killed it.I thought the men would have lost their senses for joy, when168 REJOICINGS OVER THE DEAD LEOPARD. CHAP. XII.The leopard is one of theThe gorilla is said to killwe called them to get our prizes.most feared animals of these forests.the leopard, but is not so dangerous to man as this great cat.Thus it is considered a great feat to kill one of these animals,and the whole camp was alive with excitement.Guns werefired, and everybody shouted aloud. In the midst of this noiseNiamkala came into camp with some wild boars and a ncheria curious little beast-which were a welcome addition to our billof fare.NNcheri-a diminutive Gazelle.Then, after supper, the men painted themselves and sangsongs over the leopards till I made them go to sleep, which wasnot till towards morning. They danced, they sang songs of victory, they abused and exulted over the deceased leopard. Theyaddressed comical compliments to its beauty-and it is really amost beautiful animal. They shouted, " Now you will kill nomore people! Now you will eat no more hunters! Now youcannot leap on your prey!" And so on, till the mummery grewpast laughing at.The next morning, however, I first learned the full extent oftheir rejoicing, and the great importance attached to the killingof this feared beast. I was drawn to where we had suspendedthe body to keep the ants from it by a noise of angry quarrelling, and found Niamkala asserting his determination to havethe end of the leopard's tail, while the rest of the hunters wereall asserting equal rights to it, and the non-combatants, thebearers of our luggage, looked on in envious silence, evidentlywishing they could also put in claims. On inquiry, I found thatCHAP. XII. SUPERSTITIONS ABOUT THE LEOPARD. 169the lucky possessor of the end of a leopard's tail was sure to befortunate among the women, and could, in virtue of this powerfulcharm, win as many hearts as he might desire.Laughing at them, I reserved the desired tail for him amongthem who should behave best, and thought I had settled thequarrel. But now came a fresh division. Aboko, Niamkala,and Fasiko each wanted the whole brain of the animal. For afew minutes a fight seemed imminent on this head, which seemedeven more strenuously disputed than the other. I discoveredthat the brain, if properly dried and mixed with some othercharm called monda, and the nature of which I could not understand, gave its possessor dauntless courage and great fortune onthe hunt. And I was so happy as to persuade my three hunters-who really needed no such amulet to patch up their couragethat a part was in this case as good as the whole.This settled, I found that the liver was laid before me. Asthis had no value or interest for me, I was going to kick it asideand walk off, but was stopped and entreated to take off the gall,and myself destroy it. This was to be done to save the wholeparty from future trouble. It appears that the negroes believethe gall of the leopard to be deadly poison, and my men fearedto be suspected of having concealed some of this poison by theirfriends or enemies at Sangatanga. To settle which beforehandI was now to destroy it, and afterwards to bear witness for them,if by chance they were accused of poisoning. Of course I didso, though convinced that this is a mere superstitious belief.This day (2nd) my men were all day smoking the great quantity of meat we have on hand. It is magnificent weather forhunting and for living in the woods. The air is cool andrefreshing, the sky clouded, which prevents the sun from beingoppressive; the forest-trees are in bloom, and, as many are fragrant, this adds to our pleasure. The nights are very cold.indeed, but against that we manage to protect ourselves. Thedews are light, not near so heavy as they are in the rainyseason. The grass is in great part burned off the prairies, andthis affords us much better chances and at much less risk thanif it were high; for though our approach is sometimes moredifficult, I find that if we get to leeward of our game andmanage cautiously, there is little difficulty. Every day we shotmore or less small and unimportant game, among which must170 TOUCAN- ELEPHANT-HUNT. CHAP. XII.be counted gazelle, wild boars, monkeys without number, andbirds. Thus our camp was full of meat. As these hunts arecommonplace I shall not give them place here, mentioningonly the getting of the new and more important animals.This day I killed another new bird, a species of toucan, the Tockus camurus. This is the smallest toucan yet discovered,the length of my specimen being but fourteen inches. Its billis red. The entire throat and breast are amber-brown, tingedwith purple on the rump, and with greenish-bronze on thewings and tail. The wing-coverts are tipped with white, andthis formed two conspicuous white bars crossing the wingsdiagonally. The primary feathers have a single spot of palepurple on each web, larger on the inner side; the tertiaries areedged with pale purple on both webs; the under part of thewings is white; the tail is tipped with white, and the shafts inthe tail-feathers are yellowish-white, inclining to golden aboveand white below. This, the smallest of the known toucans, isan inhabitant of the forests, and avoids the prairie. It is shy,flies in flocks of from five or six to a dozen, and is not foundnorth of the equator, at least so far as I know.This is the third new bird I have shot in the Cape Lopezcountry. Most of the birds found in these woods are commonalso to Southern Africa, and are already described. It is therefore useless to mention them here.On the 5th Aboko and Niamkala brought in a fine boar, andreported that they had come upon fresh elephants' tracks, whereupon it was immediately resolved that we should all turn outafter elephants to- morrow.Accordingly we hunted all the 6th, but in vain, and slept outin the woods, determined to try again next day. Elephants arenot very plentiful in this region, at least at this season, and seemto travel a good deal, not finding their feed in such abundance asto induce them to stay long in one place. We had travellednearly the whole of the 7th, when at last, late in the afternoon,we came across our quarry. Emerging from a thick part of theforest into the plain which bordered it, we saw to our left, justupon the edge of the wood, a solitary bull- elephant. I had seenthe great beast in menageries, and also in the wild hunt amongmyfriends the Fans, where all was such confusion that one couldnot be said to see anything distinctly. But here all was still.CHAP. XII. A SUCCESSFUL SHOT. 171The huge animal stood quietly by a tree, unconscious of our presence. And now for the first time in my life I was struck withthe vast bulk of this giant of the forests. The eye and mind hadleisure to dwell upon his size, and the place was well adapted tocomparisons. Great trees seemed but small saplings to me whenI measured them with the immense beast which was standingplacidly near them.But there was not much time for this feeling. What we wereto do was to kill him, though I felt a sense of pity at destroyingso great a life. I was very anxious to get the first shot myself,but, after taking in all the chances of approach, was compelledto admit that I could not manage it with any certainty. Thegrass was burned in every direction to leeward of him, and wedared not risk approaching him from the windward for fear heshould smell us.I was therefore reluctantly compelled, as a sensible hunter, toresign in favour of Aboko, whose eyes glistened with pleasure, ashe thought now to show his skill.co*cking his musket, he dropped down into the short grass, andbegan to creep up to the elephant, slowly, and on his belly. Itwas a splendid piece of woodcraft. We stood behind some trees,whither we had all retired to consult, and watched Aboko as heglided through the grass, for all the world like a huge boa constrictor; for the slight glimpses we caught of his back, as hemoved farther and farther away from us, resembled nothing somuch as the folds of a great serpent winding his way on.Finally we could no longer distinguish any motion. Then allwas silence and impatient waiting, suddenly broken by the sharpreport of a gun ringing through the wood and over the plain, andeliciting screams of surprise from sundry scared monkeys andbirds who had perhaps watched the secret approach with us,though from a better point of view. As the smoke cleared awayI saw the huge beast helplessly tottering, till it finally threw upits trunk and fell in a dead mass at the foot of a tree. The menbegan to shout with excitement at such a good shot, and we allhurried up to the shapeless black mass, whose flesh was yetquivering with the death-agony. Aboko's bullet had entered itshead below the ear, and, striking the brain, was at once fatal. .Aboko began to make fetich-marks on the ground around thebody, and this done we took an axe which we had carried along172 DIVIDING THE PLUNDER. CHAP. XII.and broke the skull, in order to get out the two tusks. Thesebelonged to Aboko of right, but, as he was King Bango's slave,he was bound to give one to that sable tyrant. The proceeds ofthe other would be divided among the party, Aboko retaining, ofcourse, the most considerable share. The tusks weighed but 30pounds each.We slept that night near our prize, about which the nativesbuilt a ring of fire to keep off intruders. The next morning,when news came into camp of our luck, all the fellows hurriedout to bring in the meat, which was immediately smoked, andwas to be carried into Sangatanga to be sold and given away.I never saw men happier than these poor fellows. They atenothing but meat, but ate such quantities that several of themhave got sick, and I have been obliged to give them laudanum inbrandy to cure their diarrhoea. The camp is full of meat, and aswe have no salt it does not smell particularly well. Indeed, Ihad to have a separate shanty built on one side and to leewardof the camp, where all the meat is now smoked and kept, as Icould not stand the smell. At night the negroes lie around thefires, the jolliest of mortals, drinking palm-wine, which they collect regularly from neighbouring trees, and smoking tobaccowhen I am generous to them.Meantime I stuffed such animals as were worth taking away;and as provisions were plentiful and the weather incomparably fine,my men in good spirits and myself healthy, we were in no hurryat all, and could afford to lose a day or two in idleness. Different work this from travelling in the forests of the Moondah andGaboon, where starvation stares one in the face the whole time,and there is no time to idle from point to point.On the 14th I went out on a boar-hunt. Fresh tracks hadbeen found near the camp, and three of us went out to get a shot.We had not gone far when we heard to the right of us the gruntsof some pigs. As they are very wild, we jumped hastily behindsome trees to conceal ourselves. My horror may be imagined,when, stepping quickly without looking, I stumbled over something in my path, and, looking down, found myself runningagainst an immense serpent of the boa kind which lay snuglycoiled up beside my tree. A look showed me that the thing wasin a state of stupefaction, consequent, probably, on having eatentoo heavy a dinner. It scarcely moved, and did not raise its head.CHAP. XII. LYING IN WAIT FOR BUFFALO. 173I ran to Niamkala and borrowed a kind of heavy cutlass he carried with him, and with a blow of this cut the python in twopieces, which instantly began to wriggle about in a very snakyand horrible way. During this death-struggle the monstervoided the body of a young gazelle, which was in a half- digestedcondition, but still sufficiently firm to enable us to distinguishwhat kind of animal it was.The noise made in killing the snake, which proved, by the way,to be not quite 20 feet long, of course frightened off the wild pigs.We pursued them, and by good management came up with theherd, ten in number, in about an hour's time, and managed to bagtwo. Besides these pigs, my hunters carried the two halves ofthe serpent to the camp. They make a kind of soup or stew ofboa, of which they are very fond. I have never tasted it, andcan therefore say nothing against it.After this day of hard hunting I slept soundly on my primitivecouch, which consists, I may as well explain, of a couple of matsspread on the bare and soft earth, and a thick blanket for cover,the blue star-lit sky being my canopy and roof.The 16th and 17th were passed in shooting birds about thecamp, some of which I have stuffed, but no new ones.The menhad meantime been hunting and exploring in various directions;and as they reported that great herds of buffalo (Bos brachicheros)frequented every night a prairie situated about ten miles fromour camp, I determined to have a set-to with these gentlemen.Weset out toward sunset of the 17th, and by 8 o'clock reachedthe forest which bounded the prairie in which we hoped to findour game. Securing for ourselves safe hiding-places in the woodson the edge of the plain, we lay down and waited.Now waiting is tedious; but waiting in a cold night from 8 to2 o'clock, every moment expecting what does not come, is apt totry the patience. Mine was entirely gone, and I wished myselfcomfortably under my blanket in camp, when suddenly thebuffaloes came. Aboko heard them coming, and presently a herdof about 25 stately animals emerged from the woods and scattered quietly about the grassy plain. The moon was going down,and we could see from our hiding-place the long shadows of thebuffaloes silently gliding one way and another, but never nearenough to us for a shot. Soon they felt quite at ease and beganfeeding, ever and anon gambolling sportively with each other.174 A LEOPARD SHARING THE SPOIL. CHAP. XII.Seeing them engaged, we crawled upon them with great care,and at a snail's speed. We had almost got within safe rangewhen a sudden change of wind discovered us to them. Theysnuffed up the air suspiciously, and instantly gathering togetherdisappeared in the woods.Here was ill-luck. My hunters cursed in Shekiani, and I grumbled in several languages. But there was still hope. Silentlywe crawled back to our lair, and waited patiently for two mortalhours more; when at last two, a male and female, stalked leisurely into the field and began to crop the grass. It was nowdark. The moon had gone down, leaving us only the uncertainlight of the stars. Wewatched the motions of the buffaloes untilwe thought we could venture, and silently crawled towards themagain. This time we got within range. I chose the bull for myshot, and Niamkala took the cow, while Aboko was ready tosecond me with his gun in case I should not kill my animal. Wefired both at once, and, by pure good luck, for the light was notenough to afford a chance for a fair shot, both the animals felldown dead.It was now nearly daylight, and we concluded to return to thecamp and send men to bring in the meat, thinking that no wildbeasts would trouble our prizes at such unseasonable hours. Butwe reckoned without a hungry leopard; for, though the men madehaste and arrived early, the cow was already half-eaten. Thepoor leopard who ventured out so early in the morning musthave been nearly famished, and I did not much grudge him hismeal, though I should have liked to have watched for him andshot him, had I thought of his coming.On the 22nd we broke up the camp and started for Sangatanga.The day before was a busy day. The men were packing theirmeat, which they thought to make much profit from in Sangatanga. They made baskets of palm-leaves, in which it wassolidly packed away. And all the time they were working atthis, they were boasting of how much tobacco, rum, and otherdainties they would get for all this. Although it interferedwith my time and delayed my progress, I was glad to let themcarry it, for they work better when their master gives themsuch little privileges, which make them quite happy. But Iknew their plans were of little account. As I foresaw, theygave half of their meat away to their friends; and of the

HettieNIARE, THE WILD BULL OF EQUATORIAL AFRICA.(Bos brachicheros. )CHAP. XII. THE BOS BRACHICHEROS, OR NIARE. 175rest, what they did not eat themselves, or waste, or give awayto begging friends, was a very trifle indeed, and not enoughto trade.For myself, I had my stuffed specimens to pack securely insuch a way that they would be portable. The monkeys andbirds, and even the bucks, were easily carried; but the valuablespecimens of the Bos brachicheros were an inconvenient load.And with these, as they are a quite new and hitherto undescribedspecies of buffalo, and a very singularly-formed animal, I wasobliged to be most careful .This reminds me that the reader has not yet had a descriptionof this animal. It is the wild buffalo of this part of Africa, anda fierce and shy beast; terrible if only wounded, when it oftenattacks the hunter with headlong fury; and very hard to comeup with when it has been much hunted. It remains in theforest thicknesses by day, but comes out into the open prairieby night in herds of from ten to twenty or twenty-five. I haveseen them in the prairie in the daytime, but very seldom;while, in many parts, these great grass-fields are alive withthem every night. Here they were shy; but in one of mylater trips I met great herds which had evidently never beenchased. Here, on my appearance, the bull, who is easily distinguished by the darker colour of the short thin hair, would riseup, straighten up his fine fringed ears, and his thin, wiry tail,and gaze at me with blank astonishment, until, if I waited longenough, all would slowly move off into the forest. A woundedbull is a dangerous animal, and pretty sure to attack the hunterif it can get at him. When much hunted they become veryshy, and forsake the prairie altogether by day.The Bos brachicheros is an animal in size and weight equalto our lighter cattle, but having greater strength. In thefemale, the body is covered with a coat of thin red hair, whichgrows longer along the spine, and is there of a reddish-black.In the bull the hair is generally darker. The legs, below theknees, are of a dark brown; lighter in the female. The hoofsare longer and sharper than those of our tame cattle. The tailis nearly bare to its end, where there is a considerable tuftof black hair several inches long.The head is very pretty, and has something of the lightnessof the deer's. The muzzle is black; ears long and pointed,176 CONCEALING MEAT. CHAP. XII.and fringed with beautiful silky hair several inches long, whichadds much to the grace of the animal. The horns are thrownbackward in a graceful curve, are ten or twelve inches long,black, flat at their base, and rounded near the end. For aboutfive inches from the face the horns are corrugated, the wrinklesbeing in four distinct rows, and apparently giving strength tothe horn. Where the corrugations cease the horn growssuddenly smaller, and round and smooth, terminating finallyin a sharp point. This smooth portion has a polish like blackebony.The proportions of the animal are fine and graceful. It isfleet of foot, and has not the clumsiness of the buffalo. Indeed,in expression and general shape, it gives one the idea of amixture between the antelope and the common cow.Having packed everything, we finally made a start for Sangatanga on the 22nd. My men are loaded down, and groan atevery step. They have, besides my skins and stuffed animals,about a thousand pounds of meat of their own; and it seemslucky that our powder and shot began to run out, for, if we hadshot much more, we should have had to send for reinforcements of men to carry off the spoils. This is the finest gamecountry I have met with in this part of Africa, and is greatlyencouraging to a poor fellow who like me has been starving,and shooting scarce anything, in the wilds north of the Gaboon.My men seem very jolly, though groaning under their burdens,and I am glad to see them happy. When we got within threemiles of Sangatanga they buried the greater part of their meatin the forest, and begged me to say nothing about it to theirpeople or to King Bango, that they might not be robbed bythe king and people. Of course, I readily promised . Theydescribed how they would go out by night and bring their meatto the little plantation, of which nearly all these people ownone; there it would be eaten at leisure.We reached King Bango's residence on the afternoon of the23rd. The men who were his slaves immediately surrenderedto him a great part of what they had brought in, whether meator ivory; and then, protesting that this was all, were let goabout their business, and to tell their adventures to their excitedtownsmen, amid whose enthusiastic acclamations we had enteredthe town.1CHAP. XII. AT KING BANGO'S. 177Then I was left alone with the king, who seemed worse thanwhen I left. He was alarmed-feared to die; and remarkedthat it was very singular that he had been taken worseimmediately after my departure, and that, in fact, he grew sickeven on that night when I slept in his house. I saw that theold fellow thought I had bewitched him. It would be curiousif even I should be really accused of witchcraft in this country.I replied that I did not know what caused his sickness, but thatI also had been ill; and that doubtless the season had somethingto do with it, this being the cold month. He still looked unpleasant; and to put a stop to a discussion which would neverhave been settled, I told him that I was not a wizard, and thatI was very hungry and tired.Hereupon he ordered one of his wives to make coffee for me;which was done by building a fire in a half-barrel filled withearth which stood in one corner of the room. By the time myeyes were nearly smoked out of my head my coffee was ready,and, as there were added to it some crackers and butter, I madequite a meal, having eaten nothing since breakfast.My house was too far off to reach it with my specimens thatnight, and, remembering King Bango's rats, I stayed with himonly with great fear and trembling, carefully hanging up myanimals.I scarcely slept at all, but enjoyed the rest amazingly. Mywhole body was sore, and my legs ached with real pains. Thiswas the effect of so much walking. I had not felt it so muchwhile on the way, but, now that rest came, I could not sleepfor these pains. The next two days I did nothing but lie in thesun. My men sent word that they, too, could not walk as faras my house to get their pay, so that I am not alone in mysufferings. Meantime people come in from all the countryround to see me. They say they never saw such a personbefore; and the majority have doubts about my sanity, whichare expressed and discussed in my hearing with the greatestearnestness.My men came on the 27th to be paid. They had nearlyrecovered, and said they never saw a man walk so much as I did.We parted with great good-feeling. If I ever want them theywill be glad to . come with me; and I should be glad to havethem, for they were a very good set of fellows. Meantime IN178 FETICH WORSHIP. CHAP. XII.suffered a good deal from inflammation in my legs, and wasobliged to lay up, so that it was July before I was able to goanywhere beyond the village.Walking down the village one day I saw a negro carpenterfellow go into his private fetich-house, and was lucky enough tobe able to watch his motions without being discovered. Hefirst built a little fire in the middle of the hut, then strippedand marked his body with white chalk, making very peculiarand careful stripes on one of his arms and in the centre of hisbreast. While doing this, which took some time, he kept up aconstant mumbling of words which I could not understand, butwhich were doubtless prayers addressed to his fetich. Thenthe fire was extinguished and the hut was shut. When he cameout I laughed at him; but he took the whole matter veryseriously, of course, and told me that the spirit Numba, whichhas its dwelling in the ocean, had gone into his chest, andwould kill him if he had not exorcised it by the ceremony Isaw. This spirit Numba has also something to do with themoon, but what I could not discover.On the 29th the king announced to his faithful subjects thathis big fetich had informed him that within a month a slaveship would come in for a cargo. Of course, everybody firmlybelieves this; and if by any chance it should turn out differently,they would yet believe the next prophecy which the royal fetichor any other shall make. I suppose the king had a dream, andthought his fetich spoke.I find it difficult to get anything to eat here, as I have norum and the factories have, and rum is the chief article ofdemand among the negroes. In fact, I was in such straits thatI was obliged to ask one of the factory-people to buy some foodfor me, I paying him in articles which the natives use, butwould not buy of me because I had no rum to give.The king sent his mafouga to ask if I would give him a fewheads of tobacco. King Bango is not only a great beggar, buta great miser. He is the richest negro on this part of the coast,for, besides his hundreds of slaves and his three hundred wives,he has in his store-rooms, securely piled up, very considerablequantities of goods, which he delights to see increased, and towhich only one person besides himself has access. This is anold woman, who was the wife of his father, and is now his ownCHAP. XII. A FETICH- BIRD. 179wife by right of inheritance. The slavers he has in his power,as he could destroy their factories if they offend him, and theywould have no remedy; to them, therefore, he is very exacting,forcing them to give him considerable quantities of muskets,powder, and calico. When I came, knowing the king's rapacity,I made haste to tell him that I did not come to buy slaves, andthat I should not have much to give him. He, nevertheless,begs all he can of me.As I came from seeing the king I shot at a bird sitting upona tree, and missed it. I had been taking quinine, and wasBut the negroes standing around at once proclaimedthat this was a fetich-bird, and therefore I could not shoot it.nervous.I fired again, and missed again. Hereupon they grew triumphant in their declarations, while I, loth to let the devilhave so good a witness, loaded again, took careful aim, and, tomy own satisfaction and their dismay, brought my bird down.Immediately they explained that I was a white man, and notentirely amenable to fetich laws; so that I do not suppose myshot proved anything to them after all.The grass has been for some time very dry, and by regularcustom the people should ere now have mowed down a broadstrip of it surrounding each house. This, for some reason, hasbeen omitted, and the consequence was that, on the last day ofJune, while a high wind was blowing from the sea, some grassaccidentally caught fire near the shore, and in a very short timethe whole village was in flames and burned to the ground. Inever heard such screams and lamentations, though the losswas trifling, most of the natives keeping any valuables theymay have out at their plantation-houses, where they are safefrom the attacks of their most feared enemy, the men-of-war,who, if they come, might throw a few shells into the town, andburn everything in a very short time.During my stay in the village, as I was one day out shootingbirds in a grove not far from my house, I saw a procession ofslaves coming from one of the barracoons towards the furtherend of my grove. As they came nearer I saw that two gangsof six slaves each, all chained about the neck, were carrying aburden between them, which I presently knew to be the corpseof another slave. They bore it to the edge of the grove, about300 yards from my house, and, there throwing it down on theN 2180 A FUNERAL FROM THE BARRACOONS. CHAP. XII.bare ground, returned to their prison, accompanied by the overseer, who, with his whip, had marched behind them hither."Here, then, is the burying-ground' of the barracoons," Isaid to myself sadly, thinking, I confess, ofthe poor fellow whohad been dragged away from his home and friends, to die hereand be thrown out as food for the vultures, who, even as I stoodin thought, began already to darken the air above my head, andwere presently heard fighting over the remains.The grove, which was, in fact, but an African aceldama, wasbeautiful to view from my house, and I had often resolved toexplore it, or rest in the shade of its dark-foliaged trees. Itseemed a ghastly place enough now, as I approached it to seemore closely the work of the disgusting vultures. They fledwhen they saw me, but only a little way, sitting upon the lowerbranches of the surrounding trees, watching me with eyesaskance, as though fearful I would rob them of their prey.As I walked towards the corpse I felt something crack undermy feet, and, looking down, saw that I was already in the midstof the field of skulls. I had inadvertently stepped into theskeleton of some poor creature who had been thrown here longenough ago for the birds and ants to pick his bones clean, andthe rains to bleach them. I think there must have been athousand such skeletons lying within my sight. The place hadbeen used for many years, and the mortality in the barracoonsis sometimes frightful. Here the dead were thrown, and herethe vultures found their daily carrion. The grass had just beenburned, and the white bones, scattered everywhere, gave theground a singular, and, when the cause was known, a frightfulappearance. Penetrating a little further into the brush, I foundseveral great piles of bones. Here was the place where, whenyears ago Cape Lopez was one of the great slave- markets onthe west coast, and barracoons were more numerous than now,the poor dead were thrown one upon another, till even themouldering bones remained in high piles, as monuments of thenefarious traffic.The free African looks on these places with as much loathingand disgust as the white traveller. To the reader of this theremay seem little real difference in condition between the Africanslave and free, but in reality the difference is quite as great hereas it is in other and more civilized slaveholding nations. EvenCHAP. XII. A PLEASURE-TRIP. 181in this rude Cape Lopez country to be born of a slave mother isa disgrace, and debars the unfortunate from much ofthe respectand authority which his daily companions enjoy, and this thoughthe child so born is in reality free, as it follows the condition ofthe father. The slave, in Africa, does not speak for himself. Ifhe is in trouble, if there is an " adultery palaver," a " stealingpalaver, or " trading palaver, " his master must speak for him,and clear him if possible. And as for burial, the funeral of afree Oroungou man is a very ceremonious affair, and he is laidaway on the ground with the utmost care, and in a very specially,prepared place. No worse insult could be offered to him thanto suppose that his remains would rest in such a spot as thishorrible barracoons' burying-ground.Indeed, the Oroungou cemetery, where the Cape Lopez peopleare laid to rest, is a place very well worth a visit. I passed iton my way down to the extreme sandy point of the cape, whereKing Bango's people fish in the dry season, and whither I wentto see their operations.My old hunting- friend Fasiko got together a party of aboutforty men to accompany me on a visit to Fetich Point, theFetich River, and the end of Cape Lopez, the bearings of whichplaces from Sangatanga the reader will find on the map. Wewere to travel through a barren country, and the women, therefore, prepared for us a great quantity of farina (powderedmanioc) , baskets of ground-nuts, and sweet potatoes, and bunchesof plantains. Fasiko got together a lot of mats to sleep on, andbrass kettles to cook in, and the men were laden with salt tosalt the fish which they were to catch, and with the large copperdishes called neptunes, in which they were to boil the salt waterto get other supplies of salt, which is made in considerable quantities here in the dry season.It was a very jolly party, for Cape Lopez is the Cape May orNahant of Sangatanga, and the dry season answers to our July,when everybody that is anybody is supposed to be out of townand " down at the sea-side;" with this difference, however, thatthe Sangatangians, having no civilized amusem*nts, and in factlittle amusem*nt of any kind, make a good thing of theirsummer out of town, " by catching, salting, drying, and smokinggreat quantities of good fish, which abound about Cape Lopez.So the women carried fish-baskets instead of trunks, and the66182 OROUNGOU BURYING-GROUND. CHAP. XII.men were armed with fish-nets-made by them of the fibre of avine-and guns. For leopards lurk in the jungle on the southside of the cape; the boa hangs from the trees waiting for itsprey; and if you get up early, as everybody at a watering-placeshould, you may see huge elephants trotting down along thebeach and cooling their tender toes in the surf.Fetich Point was our first place of call. We set out acrossthe wide bay one fine, clear, bright morning, in four crowdedcanoes. We reached the point a little before dark, and the men,who seemed alive and jolly as could be, at once cast their net ina way not materially different from our hand-nets, and made agreat haul of fish.Fetich River is one of the numerous mouths which form thedelta of the Nazareth; which important stream, striking the lowcountry about thirty miles back, is lost and divided into numerouslittle streams, which fall into the bay through a tangled, dreary,and poisonous tract of mangrove-swamp, where no one lives, andwhere I doubt if even beasts, except serpents, are to be found.This tract of swamp, interspersed with occasional marshes ofstanding water, extends for many miles along here, and is, inits present state, entirely useless, and an injury to the otherwisepleasant coast-line.The fish caught, we landed, lighted fires, and, having eatenour suppers, prepared for a night's rest by spreading mats uponthe sand.Near Fetich Point is the Oroungou burying-ground, and thisI went to visit the following morning. It lay about a mile fromour camp toward Sangatanga, from which it was distant abouthalf a day's pull in a canoe. It is in a grove of noble trees,many of them of magnificent size and shape. The natives holdthis place in great reverence, and refused at first to go with meon my contemplated visit, even desiring that I should not go.I explained to them that I did not go to laugh at their dead,but rather to pay them honour. But it was only by the promise of a large reward that I at last persuaded Niamkala, whowas of our party, to accompany me. The negroes visit theplace only on funeral errands, and hold it in the greatest awe,conceiving that here the spirits of their ancestors wander about,and that these are not lightly to be disturbed. I am quite surethat treasure to any amount might be left here exposed inperfect safety.CHAP. XII. MODE OF OROUNGOU BURIAL. 183The grove stands by the sea-shore. It is entirely cleared ofunderbrush, and, as the wind sighs through the dense foliage ofthe trees and whispers in the darkened, somewhat gloomy grove,it is an awful place, even to an unimpressible white man. Niamkala stood in silence by the strand while I entered the domainsof the Oroungou dead.They are not put below the surface. They lie about beneaththe trees in huge wooden coffins , some of which, by their newlook, betokened recent arrivals; but by far the greater numberwere crumbling away. Here was a coffin falling to pieces,and disclosing a grinning skeleton within. On the other sidewere skeletons, already without covers, which lay in dust besidethem. Everywhere were bleached bones and mouldering remains.It was curious to see the brass anklets and bracelets in whichsome Oroungou maiden had been buried still surrounding herwhitened bones, and to note the remains of goods which hadbeen laid in the same coffin with some wealthy fellow, nowmouldering to dust at his side. In some places there remainedonly little heaps of shapeless dust, from which some copper, oriron, or ivory ornament gleamed out to prove that here, too,once lay a corpse.Passing on to a yet more sombre gloom, I came at last to thegrave of old King Pass-all, the brother of his present majesty.The coffin lay on the ground, and was surrounded on every sidewith great chests which contained the property of his deceasedmajesty. Among these chests and on the top of them were piledhuge earthenware jugs, glasses, mugs, plates, iron pots and bars,brass and copper rings, and other precious things which this oldPass-all had determined to carry at last to the grave with him.And, also, there lay around numerous skeletons of the poorslaves who were, to the number of one hundred, killed when theking died, that his ebony kingship might not pass into the otherworld without due attendance.It was a grim sight, and one which filled me with a sadderawe than even the disgusting baracoons' ground.Between Fetich Point and the river lay formerly the villageof the Cape Lopez people; but now the king and all his subjectshave moved to Sangatanga, and this whole district is deserted,except in the fishing- season.The land-breeze blowing when I returned, we started for the184 AN AFRICAN WATERING-PLACE. СНАР. ХІІ.sandy point of the cape. It is a curious beach, very low, and socovered with a short scrub which hides a part of the view, whilethe sand ahead is undistinguishable at a distance from the water,which it barely rises above, that I was repeatedly disappointed;thinking we had come to the end, when in fact we had still beforeus a long, narrow sand- spit. Finally we reached the extremeend, and landed in the smooth water on the inside of the spit ina kind of harbour.The point gains continually upon the sea, and every year alittle more sand appears above the water; while the line of shortshrubs, which acts as a kind of dam or breakwater, is extended,and holds the new land against old Neptune's attacks.Among these shrubs we built our camp; and here, for somedays, we had a very lively time. The women were all day onthe shore making salt; and the poor children had hard work too,for their share was to gather brushwood for the fires. Some ofthe men took fish in their nets; and others split them, cleaned,salted, dried, and smoked them, which done, they were put awayin baskets. The salt, too, when made, was packed securely inbaskets, and placed near the fire to keep it dry.Others of our party went out early in the morning to turnturtles. These animals come on the beach to lay their eggs inthe sand, where the sun hatches them. The negroes lie in waitfor them in parties, and often turn twenty in a morning. Twoor three men rush upon an unwieldy turtle, and, with one jerk,roll it over on its back, where it lies, vainly struggling to recoverits legs, until the turning is done, when all hands begin to killand clean. The meat is smoked.As for myself, I had brought with me an immense shark-hookand a stout rope, and amused myself by hooking up occasionallyone of the vast numbers of sharks which swarm in the watersabout the cape, and are often almost washed upon the beach by the waves. I never saw such immense numbers of sharks as arefound here. The Chinese, who eat shark-fins, would find hereenough to glut the Canton market for a season.But there was hunting, too. South of the cape was a denseforest, in which might be found all the animals which live in anAfrican wood. We saw elephants on the beach, but shot none.I shot great numbers of sea-fowl, which fly about here in suchflocks as almost to darken the air. Returning one evening fromCHAP. XII.it rose.KILLING A LEOPARD. 185the forest, whither Aboko, Niamkala, and I had been on a fruitless hunt, we fell in with larger game. Passing along the edgeof the forest, we were suddenly startled by a deep growl, and,looking quickly about, perceived an immense male leopardcouching for a spring into our party. Fortunately our gunswere loaded with ball, and in a flash we all three fired into thebeast. It was already upon the spring, and our shot met it asIt fell, dead and quivering, within a foot of Aboko,who may be said to have had a very narrow escape. It was animmense animal; and its skin, which I preserved as a trophy,is most beautifully shaded and spotted. In fact, there is scarcelya more beautiful animal in the world than the African leopard.On my return to Cape Lopez, I sailed back with my specimensto the Gaboon, whither I was glad to return once more to takea little civilized comfort. I remained several months near theGaboon, exploring the course of that river and the country aboutit* borders, and finally set off on my longest and most adventurous journey.186 THE CAMMA COAST. СНАР. ХІІІ.CHAPTER XIII.The " Camma Country "- -Coast - Surf-- Trade- The Caroline-- A mixedCrew-- A dusky Bride - A Squall - On her Beam-ends---――- Native Traders-- Rampano - Sangala Troubles -— Nearly a Fight -The City of Washington Attempt at Assassination The Camma People Aniambia RiverNavigation Men refuse to advance King Olenga-Yombi A DanceFetich-houses- Spirit Worship— A mad Bull — Cheating the King —LiveGorilla brought in How caught Ferocity of the Animal -Joe escapes- Is recaptured — Habits and Peculiarities of Joe - Hippopotamus-shootingNight-hunting- Hippopotamus- Meat -- Habits of the Animal - HideUse of the Tusks -They capsize Boats - Peaceable if not attacked — VoiceCombative - Adventures with Hippopotami.-DURING a somewhat protracted stay at the Gaboon, I preparedmyself thoroughly for my next and most important tour. I hadlong been anxious to explore thoroughly the tract known as theCamma country; a region, like those I had just visited , totallyunknown to white men, but much more interesting and important to judge it by its products-than the others, as it isalso more extensive and watered by larger streams.The " Camma country " begins to the south of Cape Lopez inlat. 0° 40' S., and extends to the southward as far as the RiverCamma, in lat. 1° 50' S., and to the east for about fifty milesfrom the coast. It is a well- watered region; the Mexias, andsome minor branches of the great Ogobay River, running into thesea in its northern bounds, while the Fernand Vaz, the Camma,and the Setti have their mouths farther down, at various pointsof the Camma coast.The coast-line is generally low and swampy; a heavy surfmakes landing difficult, except at a few points protected by theshape of the land, and the shore, viewed from the sea, has somonotonous an aspect that seamen find it difficult to recognizetheir whereabouts, even after considerable experience of thecoast. The mouths of the rivers, however, are readily recognized by the great streams of fresh water which they send withconsiderable force into the sea, discolouring it for some distancefrom shore, as also by the breakers on the bars which line thesemouths.1CHAP. XIII. NATIVE SEAMANSHIP. 187The surf on the coast is much worse during the dry season, orfrom June to September. During the rains landing is mucheasier; but even then one needs skilful natives and the bestcanoes. For this reason the trade along this part of the coast isnot very brisk; vessels touch but seldom; and I found that Iwas even obliged to purchase a little vessel to carry me from theGaboon to the scene of my first (intended) settlement. Thiswas a cutter, open or undecked, of about seven tons' burden. Iintended to use this vessel in case it should be desirable toreturn at any time when no ship offered.I knew by experience that I should meet with more than usualdifficulties in my attempts to penetrate into the interior. Thenatives here had never heard of me; they had had so littleintercourse with whites that they were even more jealous thanthose to the north; and I expected nothing less than to have,in the first place, to win their confidence and respect by livingamong them near the coast for a considerable time. For thisreason I made preparations for an absence of from fourteen totwenty months, during which I expected to be entirely alone.I loaded the Caroline, a schooner of forty-five tons, with twohogsheads of tobacco, several large bales of prints, a greatquantity of plates, jugs, and other earthenware vessels; ahundred muskets, together with powder; beads, swords, brasskettles, neptunes, &c. , and a considerable stock of provisions formyself.When all was ready I went on board-and should have beenglad to have come immediately ashore again. My captain wasa Portuguese negro, Cornillo by name. The crew, who numbered no less than seven, were Mpongwe, Mbenga, and Croomen, no more than two of whom could understand each other,and not a soul could understand the captain. To add a littlemore to this confusion of tongues, I brought on board twoMpongwe men and their wives, who were to serve me as headmen, interpreters, and for other purposes in the new locationwhere I intended to make my home.We got on board at daylight, and by dint of steady shoutingand a great deal of standing around, with a little work now andthen, we got the anchor up just at dusk. The captain did notmuch like that we should leave port on Friday, but I told himI would take the responsibility. No sooner had we got out188 A TOUGH TIME. CHAP. XIII.into the swell than every man (and woman) on board exceptthe captain got sea-sick. The cook was unable to make breakfast next morning, the men were lying about looking likedying fish, and in the canoe which we had on deck, Oyaya,one of my Mpongwe men, sea-sick himself, was vainly strivingto comfort his newly-married wife, who was more sea-sickthan he. It was good fun to look at the poor fellow, whowas really in love with his spouse, a young woman of twenty,who, to my knowledge, had already been married three times,and must have been gratified at the way she swayed poorOyaya.We hoped to get down to the Camma region in five days.But on the 5th, our sailing- day, and for three successive daysthereafter, we had light head winds and a head current, and onFebruary 10th we were caught in such a storm as I hope neverto be in at sea again.The steering had gone on so badly when the captain wasbelow that I was forced to stand watch. I was sleepingsoundly, having steered for four hours, and had been perhaps anhour in my berth, when I was awakened by the captain's voicegiving orders to take down the mainsail. I jumped on deckimmediately, knowing there must be at least a heavy squallcoming. But no sooner did I cast my eye to leeward than Isaw how imminent the danger was. This coast is troubled byfrequent squalls of wind, lasting, in general, but a short time,but of terrible violence, and followed by torrents of rain. Sucha squall was now coming up. The black clouds which hadgathered about the horizon were becoming lurid white withstartling quickness. It seemed almost as though they were litup by lightning. This was the wind, which would now in amoment be upon us. As yet, all was still.I turned to see if the mainsail was down, but found nothingdone to meet the squall. The captain was shouting from thewheel, the men were running about, half- scared to death, alsoshouting, and in the pitchy darkness (for I could not actuallysee my hands when held close before my eyes) no one couldfind the balliards. In the midst of our trouble the wind cameroaring down. I seized a knife, determined to cut everythingaway; but just then somebody let go the halliards, and, in thenick of time the mainsail came half-way down. Just then theCHAP. XIII. NEGRO SPECULATORS. 189squall broke upon us with the roar and force of a tornado. Thejibs flew away in rags in a moment. The vessel sank over onher beam-ends. The water rushed on to her decks, and themen sung out that we were drowning, as, in fact, we shouldhave been in a very few minutes. Happily the wind shifted alittle, and by the light of some very vivid lightning we seizedon the mainsail and pulled it down, holding it so that the windshould not catch it again.So she righted, and in about twenty minutes the squall diedoff, and was succeeded by a driving rain, pouring down insuch torrents, that we could get no protection from it evenbelow.The next morning we had no jibs, and our other sails wereseverely damaged. This did not help us along very fast. Itwas not till the 13th that we made the land; but now no oneon board knew where we were, not even our captain, whobrings up every day an old quadrant, about the use of whichhe knows as much as a cow does about a musket. At last acanoe came off to ask me to land to start a factory, as theyhad plenty of ivory and palm-oil and other trade. If I hadgone ashore I should probably have found not a gallon of oil,not the smallest tusk of ivory. The great anxiety of everyone of these negroes is for a factory, just as a Western townbuilder's chief desire is for a railroad. They lie, and beg, andalmost force a white man ashore, thinking themselves safe ifthey can induce him to set up a little factory and trust themwith some goods; for they do not, as a general thing, intend topay him.However, our speculative friend in the canoe informed us wewere off Cape St. Catherine, and therefore a good many milessouth of the mouth of the Fernand Vaz; so we turned about toretrace our steps. Sailing close in shore, at every village wepassed we were hailed by canoes full of negroes begging us tostart a factory in their place. In some villages we could evensee the large house, looking very fine from the sea, but doubtless poor enough seen close to, which was intended for thegreat factory which should make everybody rich. This housewas generally surrounded by huts, in which lived the nativeswaiting for their.commercial millennium, which, alas! neverI paid no attention to their entreaties, and was even comes.190 MISTAKEN FOR A SLAVER. CHAP. XIII.firm enough, to the surprise of everybody, to decline a magnificent offer of two slaves made by the natives of Aniambia, orBig Camma, who came off with a message from their king.At last we came to the mouth of the Fernand Vaz, and ourfame and the disappointment of the natives had gone before us.It had been determined in the Gaboon that I should set up myestablishment in the town of King Ranpano, who was a friendof Will Glass, one of my Gaboon allies. As the Caroline passedRanpano's sea-village, of course a canoe came off to beg me toland. But they evidently had little hope; and their surprisewas extravagant when I assented, and told them I had come onpurpose to set up a factory with them.I never saw men so anxious for trade as these wild Africansare. They remind me of what is said of Western land speculators, and really they have quite as much enterprise and quiteas sanguine a temperament as those worthies.Rampano's men wanted much to hug me, and were so extravagant in their joy that I had to order them to keep theirhands off. I sent one of my men in their boat to bear a messageto the king, and took one of theirs for a pilot, being nowanxious to get across the intricate bar and fairly into the riverbefore dark. As we sailed along into the river, boats shot outto meet us belonging to different villages, and presently I hada crowd alongside anxious to board us and sufficient almost tosink us. They took me for a slaver at first, and immediatelycalled out their names in Portuguese. One was Don Miguel,another Don Pedro, another Don Francisco. They began tojabber away in Portuguese, which I do not understand, so I setmy captain at them, who had some difficulty in persuadingthem that I came on no such errand. Then they insistedthat I should set up my factory in their place. They belongedto Elindé, a town just at the mouth of the Fernand Vaz, whoseking is named Sangala. They praised the greatness and powerof Sangala, and decried poor Ranpano, until I had to order allhands ashore for the night, being anxious to get a good quietsleep to prepare for to-morrow.From Cape St. Catherine to the Fernand Vaz is about fortyfive miles, reckoning in the windings of the shore. The wholecoast along here is low, covered with prairies, wooded here andthere. The landscape has a great sameness, and it is difficult toСНАР. ХІІІ. PALAVER AT ELINDE. 191know the land. The shore is all along defended by breakers,which become very formidable in the dry season.During the night a fellow named Nchouga came off to seeme. He was brother to that king of Cape Lopez of whom Ihave before given some account. The king falling sick, accusedthis Nchouga of bewitching him; whereupon the latter, to savehis life, fled the country and came down to get protection fromSangala, his father-in -law. This is one of the uses of fathers-inlaw in this country.Nchouga now came off to tell me that Sangala was master ofall the river, and that he would not let me go up to Ranpano's,who was only a vassal of the great Sangala. Therefore headvised me as a friend to go ashore at Elindé. Fortunately Iknew Mr. Nchouga.Next morning (14th) Sangala sent off a boat for me. I tooktwo interpreters, and, on my arrival in Elindé, which is abouttwo miles from the river's mouth, was conducted to the besthouse. Hither came Sangala presently, drunk, and attended bya great crowd of eager subjects. He grew very angry when Istated my intention of passing up the river and going into theinterior; declared I should not; he was the big king there, andI must settle in his town.We had some sharp words, and I explained to his Majestythat I was an old African and saw through all his lies. Thenhe said he would not make any palaver if I would have a factoryin his town too.I refused, but offered to dash him (give him some presents).He refused this offer. And now, Ranpano having come, andassuring me that I should be backed up, I told Sangala I shouldforce my way up.sea.All this time rain was pouring down. When the talk endedRanpano took me in his canoe to his river- village, a town whichthe people had but just started, their real town being on theThither (to the sea-town) we went next day. I found ita very substantial place for an African town, having some goodhouses, and looking much like a Mpongwe village. But I sawthat my goods could not be brought hither without great trouble,nor my specimens shipped through the surf without great danger,and so told Ranpano I must live on the river; whereupon he192 READY FOR BATTLE. CHAP. XIII.gave me at once as much land as I wanted, and I am to havehouses built for myself.Meantime the excitement had spread over the country, andall Ranpano's friends gathered to help fight Sangala. It wasreally a droll but exciting scene to see canoe after canoe comein, loaded with armed men, drums beating, and all handsshouting and waving swords, guns, and spears. All were prepared to assist Ranpano's white man, and all were anxious toburn and plunder Elindé. King Ritimbo, who has a factory inhis own town, kept by a Mpongwe fellow, and belonging to aNew York house, had two canoes and fifty men. King Mombo,from Sanguibuiri, had also two canoes; in short we had in allno less than twenty big canoes, and could muster, on the morningof the 17th, about three hundred men, most of whom were drunkon mimbo- wine, and as noisy and as ready for fight as drunkenness will make an African.Drums were beat, and songs sung, and guns fired, as we paddled down the river; all hands had their faces painted white,which is a sign of war, and were covered with fetiches, greegrees,and other amulets. The white paint had been blessed, and wasalso a sovereign protection against danger. One who did notknow the genuine and neverfailing cowardice of the Africans,would have supposed these terrible fellows bent upon the mostbloody of raids. I was not disappointed when, sighting Sangala'stown, they pushed over to the other shore out of the way, and tookcare to keep the Caroline between the enemy and themselves.We found that Sangala had also gathered his friends, and hadabout one hundred and fifty men ready for fight. These fellowswere painted more outrageously than my side, having red aswell as white applied in broad stripes. They looked like somany devils, shouting and firing off guns-each side knowingthe common lack of courage, and thinking it prudent to scarethe other in advance.There was a grand palaver, in the midst of which I sent wordto Sangala that if he stopped me I would blow his canoes out ofthe water with grape-shot, and then go and bring a man- of- war tofinish him up. (This threat of a man-of-war always strikes terrorinto their guilty consciences. ) I loaded my guns and pistols, andmade my men put good charges into their pieces, and awaitedthe event.CHAP. XIII. HOUSE-BUILDING IN AFRICA. 193Presently a boat came to ask me ashore, Sangala sending hischief wife to be hostage for my safety. I determined to goashore, and, to show these negroes that I had no fear of them,took the woman along with me, to her great joy. Ranpano andhis brother kings protested against my rashness, as they thoughtit; but I assumed an air, and told them it was not the fashionof white people to fear anything. All this has its effect uponthem, and Ranpano was evidently impressed, as also was oldSangala.We met on neutral ground outside his town. His army wasdrawn up in battle array, and made a fine savage display, manyof the men, in addition to their paints, wearing beautiful leopardskins about their waists. They came up to us at a full trot whenwe were seated, and made as though they would spear us all;but it was only a kind of military salute. After this Sangalasaid he would let me pass up for a barrel of rum. I refused togive rum, but was obliged to give him 16 dollars to go off andbuy a barrel. Also I gave him a number of pieces of cloth andother things, and then the great quarrel was settled .Ranpano was delighted. He said he would no more be king,but install me in his place, and made the greatest promises ofgood treatment. We loaded seventeen canoes from the Caroline, and pulled up to the village where I was to make my homeand headquarters for some time; and, to my great astonishment,though we did not reach the town till after dark, not a thing wasstolen. The next day the schooner was emptied; and, I am gladto say, they stole not a single article of me. I never before sawor heard of such a case of honesty in Africa. Everything beingnow at Ranpano's town, my first work was to prepare myquarters, where I was to spend some portion, at least, of thenext twenty months, and would leave my possessions in myabsence. While I was thinking over a plan for my house, onthe evening of my arrival, in came Ranpano with his head wifeto get his present. He came slyly, that his people might notsee him; and I made him happy with ten pieces of cloth, a gun,a neptune, a kettle, and some beads and other trifles.The next day everybody was set to work. I chose the sitefor the house, a beautiful little spot in the high prairie about onehundred and fifty yards distant from the huts of the village; thevery prettiest little piece of ground, taking in view and all, that194 MY LIFE IS THREATENED. CHAP. XIII.I saw in all Africa. It faced the river which I was to explore,and where a school of hippopotami were playing about everyday on a shoal; had a grove at its back, and a rivulet of clearspring-water rippling along one side.Hither every day the men brought me the long straightbranches of a kind of palm growing by the river-side, which areused for the sides of a native house. Some gathered the leavesof the same tree, from which mats for roofing are made, andothers went through the woods collecting wild vines, with whichto tie the poles or bamboos together, and long slender poles toset up at the corners to tie the bamboo sides up to. The womencleaned the ground, and every evening huge piles of buildingmaterial were laid at my feet, of which I accepted what wasgood, and sent away the rest.In Africa every room is a separate house: so I had a kitchenin one corner of my place, a house to keep my goods in another,a house for my specimens in another, and fowl and goat houses;my own living-house, and huts for my men, whom I intended tokeep with me, all crowded together, and making altogether quitea little colony. The native carpenter, with his mpano, or nativeaxe, a hammer, and a knife, made me windows of a rude sort,and doors, for which I had brought hinges and locks with me.Everything went on very pleasantly until the 10th of April,when pay-day came for my men. I had settled with some, whena fellow who had built my preserving and preparatory house foranimals, for which labour I had promised him twenty- four dollarsin goods, had the impudence to ask forty for his party. I refused, whereupon one of the workmen threatened me with hisknife. Here was a very bad case indeed, and one of which I feltthat I must make an example. I ran for my gun, and threatenedto shoot the fellow, who was put out of my way by his friends.Then I called for the king, and demanded that the rascal shouldbe sent to my house in chains.He said " Yes," but evidently did not want to find him; andI, who felt that I must make an example of the man if I lookedfor peace and respect in the future, only insisted the more thatthey should catch him.At last, seeing that they only pretended, I sent for my Croomen and began to pack up my goods, saying I would go back toGaboon, and would not stay among such men. Just then anCHAP. XIII. THE TOWN OF WASHINGTON. 195American whale- ship appeared in the offing, and I sent word immediately that I would take passage in her.The king came to me, and upon his knees begged me not togo; and finally, seeing I was determined, set off with some menfor the plantation where they had stowed the offender. He wasone of the oldest and most influential people of the town, andthey were very loth to give him up.On the next day (the 12th) the man, whose name was Ovenga,was brought in. The excitement was intense. The people weregathered in a crowd, and talked over the matter; the kinglooked almost pale with anxiety, and Ovenga himself shook likea leaf. I demanded that he should be tied, brought to my house,and severely flogged. They begged that his cloth might not be taken off, as it would be a disgrace to expose an old man. Tothis I consented; but sat, with a hard, stern face, waiting forthe poor criminal. When at last he stood bound before me, Iscolded him well for his attempt to cheat, and made much of theenormity of his threat. Then I said I could pay only what I hadpromised; that it was a great outrage to threaten with a knife;that his own people acknowledged my justice in flogging him;but that, as they did not know " white man's fashions " in suchmatters, I had determined to forgive him, and not flog him atall; with which I set him free.Instantly thunders of applause ran through the village, gunswere fired, singing and dancing began all over, and never weresuch a set of jolly fellows. It was the only way to treat them.If I had passed Ovenga's threat by, I should probably have beenmurdered at some future time. Now they think more highly ofme than ever for my little piece of justice tempered with mercy.On the 13th of April I took possession of my new place, which,being quite a village, I have called Washington. It consists ofmy own house, which has five rooms, is forty-five feet long bytwenty-five wide, and cost fifty dollars; my kitchen, four dollars;fowl-house, containing a hundred chickens and a dozen ducks;the goat-house, with eighteen goats; a powder-house; two othertolerably-sized houses for stores, &c.; and a dozen huts for mymen This is Washington in Africa. .At the back of my house is a wide extent of prairie. In frontis the river Npoulounai winding along; and I can see miles onthe way which I shall soon explore. Its banks are lined with0 2196 THE CAMMA PEOPLE. CHAP. XIII.mangroves; and, looking up stream almost any time, I can seeschools of hippopotami tossing and tumbling on the flats.As I am entirely at the mercy of the negroes now, I am verystrict, but entirely just, in my dealings; making myself obeyed,and that without loss of time. I made them stop their drummingat night, and do not let my own men go off without askingleave; which last seemed a dreadful trouble to them, but oneto be endured, as I pay them regularly at every full moon theirfourteen fathoms of cloth, besides keeping them in tobacco.Camma Man and Woman.And now, having finished my village, let me say a word aboutthe people. They are very much like the Mpongwe, and havethe same language, with a few local variations. The women wearCHAP. XIII. UP THE FERNAND VAZ. 197on their legs a large number of brass rings. They are dividedinto several families, some of which own the right to the seashore, while others are forced by these to remain in the interior,and send their goods to them to trade off. These are calledbushmen; and, as might be expected, they are poor, as theirseashore brethren take care to pick the best of all the trade.They are all acute, intelligent, and smart traders, though theyhave had, even at the river's mouth, but very little intercourse,so far, with whites.They call themselves the Commi, though we call them Camma.They possess the seashore from south of Cape Lopez to CapeSt. Catherine, having also one or two villages on the Mexias.Their chief town is Aniambia, once a large and flourishing placefor these people; but their chief villages are on the banks ofthe Fernand Vaz, which is called by the natives the Eliva.The mouth of the Fernand Vaz is obstructed by bars, on whichthe sea breaks with considerable violence; but the channel hasgenerally three, and in the rainy season four, fathoms water.The banks at the mouth are low; and it is not only a difficultland-fall to make from sea, but a very dreary piece of land whenmade.The Camma people are even more anxious for trade than theMpongwe, probably because they have not yet had so much commerce with white people. Every enterprising Camma fellowbuilds a few huts for a village in what he thinks an advantageoussituation; then builds a big house for the factory which is tocome; and then does nothing for the remainder of his life butwait for this blissful coming. It does not occur to him to collectivory, or oil, or India-rubber. He prefers rather to lie in waitfor passing vessels, and try with his most honeyed words to persuade some luckless captain ashore.It will be seen that the negro tribes hereabout are much alikein their general characters. A description of the Mpongwe willanswer tolerably well for all the seashore tribes from the Moondah to Cape St. Catherine, making allowance for the greaterrudeness of those who, like these Camma, have not had muchacquaintance with Europeans.On the 13th of April I bought, for thirty dollars' worth ofgoods, a really splendid canoe, which I hoped would be serviceable to me in my up-river explorations. I was now anxious to198 APPEARANCE OF THE RIVER. CHAP. XIII .be off, and determined to make a short trip to the seashore byway of Aniambia. This would carry me first about thirty-fivemiles up the Fernand Vaz, and then across the land, as the readerwill see by referring to the map.My men were ready, and on the morning of the 14th we setout. I had satisfied myself that Ranpano was anxious to haveme remain in his town, as were also his people: and I had littlefear of injury to my things in my absence so long as this goodopinion of me was kept up. I therefore called the people together before my departure, and said that I had perfect confidence in them; that I was their white man, and had come tothem through much difficulty and danger (cheers); that Sangalapeople wanted me, but I was determined to live with the honestfolks of Biagano (great cheering); that I was going away for afew days, and hoped to find my goods all safe when I came back.At this there were great shoutings of " You can go!" " Do notfear!" " We love you!" " You are our white man!" "We willtake care! " and so on; amid which my sixteen men seized theirpaddles and shoved off.Five or six miles above Biagano are some little islands. Afterpassing these the river widened, until at Sanguibuiri, twentymiles above the mouth, it is about three miles wide. The countrywas low here, but as we ascended it got higher, and the rivernarrowed, often suddenly, till in a few miles it was but halfa-mile wide. At nine the moon rose, and we pulled alongthrough what seemed a charmed scene; the placid stream shadedby the immense trees which overhung its banks, and the silencebroken now and then by the screech of some night-prowlingbeast, or more frequently by the sudden plunge of a playfulherd of hippopotami.Towards midnight my men became tired, and we went ashoreat a little village which was nearly empty. We could find onlythree old women, who were fast asleep, and not particularlyanxious to make us welcome. I was too sleepy to stand uponceremonies, and stowed myself away under a rough shed withoutwalls, first building a good fire in front and arranging my musquito-bar so as to keep out those buzzing intruders. But I hadhardly lain down when there came up suddenly one of thosefierce tornadoes which pass over these countries in the rainyseason. Fortunately it was a dry tornado, and one discomfort

.AFRICA EQUATORIAL INNAVIGATION RIVERCHAP. XIII. ANIAMBIA. 199was thus saved us; but while it lasted I had to stand out in theclear street, lest some house should fall on me.Shortly after we had left the village next morning (havingpaid for our lodgings with the ever-welcome tobacco), we cameto a part of the river where it widened into a considerable andvery pretty lake. This was studded with little green islets,which lie so thickly in places as to form the sluggish stream intonumerous little lakelets, creeks, and narrow straits.All this while, though we were going up stream, we were notdiverging greatly from the coast-line, and were, in fact, goingdown the coast rather than into the interior. The sluggish riverruns through these sandy low banks, unable at any point to forceits way through to the sea, which is, in places, so near that onemay hear its roar.About ten o'clock of the second day we came to another bayor lagoon, on whose banks, on a high hill, lies the pretty villageof Igalé Mandé. Hereabouts the river is charming. Thickforests border the banks; and on the trees, as we passed beneath,sat or skipped about that graceful and curious little monkey,Cercocebus Collaris, whose white whiskers give him a verypeculiar and venerable appearance. This town is about fortymiles from the mouth. We found but one man and his wife athome. The rest had gone to make palm-oil.Here a part of my crew refused to proceed. It leaked outthat they had been intriguing with some women in Aniambia,and now they were afraid of being caught by the irate husbands.So I left them behind, not caring to get into a row by protectingthem, as I should certainly have done if they had gone along.It would be fatal to a traveller in Africa to let any one, for anycause, interfere with the men he employs. I never permitted it,even when my men were in fault.From Igalé to Aniambia was a two hours' walk through grassfields, in which we found numerous birds, some of them new tome. One in particular, the Mycteria Senegalensis, had such longlegs that it fairly outwalked me. I tried to catch it, but, thoughit would not take to the wing, it kept so far ahead that I did noteven get a fair shot at it.Aniambia lies on the seashore, near a point north of Cape St.Catherine; which point makes a safe landing- place. Here wasonce the headquarters of the now scattered Camma people.200 KING OLENGA-YOMBI. CHAP. XIII.Twenty years ago, when King Regundo reigned here, it hadprobably a population of nearly three thousand, and was a notedplace for slave-factories, and for ivory and other African produce.The natives still speak with reverence of their great king. Afterhis death the chief men in the leading families spread, the townbroke up, and gradually the tribe has become, scattered, till itoccupies the wide range of country before noted. The death oftheir king was a death-blow to all their prosperity. They havehad but few factories since, and have robbed most of them; and,as they own no king nor head chief, no redress is to be got, andwhite men have ceased to come among them. Once in a greatwhile they get hold of some unlucky captain, ignorant of theircharacter, whom they fleece without mercy, and generally sendaway only when they have ruined him.Still they are as eagerly on the look- out for shipping as ever.The big trade-house stands in the midst of the village in all itsglory; the English flag floated to the breeze on the high polewhich every Camma village has, a flag being the sign of a shipin the offing; and the canoe was ready to launch at short noticeto board some passing merchantman.The present king, Olenga-Yombi, came in from his plantationwhen he heard the joyful news that a white man had arrived,and I made him a formal visit. He was a drunken old wretch,surrounded by a crowd of the chief men of the town. Hismajesty had on a thick overcoat, but no trousers; and, early asit was, had already taken a goodly quantity of rum or palmwine. I was invited to sit at his right hand. I told him I hadcome to purchase a little ivory and to hunt, having heard thatthere was game in his country. After presenting him with afew strips of cloth, some pipes, and several heads of tobacco,which put him in a good temper, he declared I was a good whiteman, and should go wherever I chose.Accordingly, I went out in the afternoon, but found all aroundhere a very low country, perfectly flat, and mostly prairie. Thelong grass was full of birds, and the long-legged Mycteria was ingreat numbers. There were also great flocks of a beautiful birdwhose dark golden body- plumage, and snow-white, long, downyneck, made a very fine and marked contrast with the green grass.Next to these, in point of numbers, was the snow-white egretta,which is found in vast flocks all along this coast.CHAP. XIII. NEGRO FANDANGO. 201At nightfall I got a guide and went out to see if I could get ashot at something larger than a bird. Gorilla are said to befound in the country behind here; but I had no hope of gettinga shot at one here, and was prepared for game of less note. Wehad gone but a little way when my guide pointed out to me acouple of bright glowing spots visible through a piece of thickbrush. The fellow trembled as he whispered " Leopard! " but Isaw at once that it was only the light of a couple of fire- flies whohad got in proper position to make a tolerable resemblance tothe glowing eyes of the dreaded leopard.About two o'clock in the morning we at last heard a gruntingwhich announced the approach of a herd of wild hogs. I layin wait near the track they had to pass along, and was fortunate enough to kill the big boar of the pack. The rest of theherd made off without showing a desire for fight, as these malicious animals do sometimes, and we returned to town with ourtrophy.On the next evening (17th) the king held a grand dance inmy honour. This is an honour I abominate, but one which cannot be declined, because the natives enjoy it too much themselves. All the king's wives, to the number of forty, and allthe women of the town and neighbourhood were present. Fortunately the dance was held out in the street, and not in a room,as in Cape Lopez. The women were ranged on one side, themen opposite. At the end of the line sat the drummers beatingtheir huge tam-tams, which make an infernal and deafeningdin, enough to distract a man of weak nerves. And, as thoughfor this occasion the tam-tams were not entirely adequate, therewas singing, and shouting, and a series of brass kettles, whichalso were furiously beaten; while, as a last and most ingeniousaddition, a number of boys sat near the drummers beating onhollow pieces of wood. It is curious what a stirring effect thesound of the tam-tam has on the African. It works upon himas martial music does upon excitable Frenchmen; they lose allcontrol over themselves at its sound, and the louder and moreenergetically the horrid drum is beaten, the wilder are thejumps of the male African, and the more disgustingly indecentthe contortions of the women.As may be imagined, to beat the tam-tam is not a labour oflove. The stoutest negro is worn out in an hour at furthest,202 FETICHES AND THEIR HOUSES. CHAP. XIII.and for such a night's entertainment as this a series of drummersare required.The people enjoyed it vastly, their only regret being that theyhad not a barrel of rum to drink in the pauses of the dance.But they managed to get just as drunk on palm-wine, of whicha great quantity was served out. The excitement becamegreatest when the king danced. His majesty was pretty drunk,and his jumps were very highly applauded. His wives boweddown to his feet while he capered about, and showed him thedeepest marks of veneration, while the drums and kettles werebelaboured more furiously than ever.After standing it as well as I could for two hours, I left; butthough I lay down I could not sleep all night, for they kept it uptill nearly daylight.The next day I visited the two fetich-houses. Aniambiaenjoys the protection of two spirits of very great power, namedAbambou and Mbuirri. The former is an evil spirit, the latteris beneficent. They are both worshipped; and their accommodations, so far as I was permitted to see, were exactly alike.They were housed in little huts, each about six feet squareand six feet high. The fetich-man, who is also doctor and townoracle, led me to where they stood together at the end of thevillage, and respectfully opened the doors for me to look intohis holy places.In the house of Abambou I saw a fire, which I was told is notpermitted to go out. I saw no idol, but only a large chest, onthe top of which lay some white and red chalk and some redparrot-feathers. The chalk is used to mark the bodies of thedevout on certain occasions when vows are made. The featherswere probably part of the trappings of the spirit.Abambou is the devil of the Camma. He is a wicked andmischievous spirit, who lives near graves and in burial-grounds,and is most comfortably lodged among the skeletons of thedead. He takes occasional walks through the country; and, ifhe is angry at anyone, has the power to cause sickness anddeath. The Camma cook food for him, which is deposited inlonely places in the woods; and then they address him in aflattering manner, and ask him to be good to them, and, inconsideration of their gifts, to leave them alone. I was presentonce at a meeting where Abambou was being addressed inCHAP. XIII. FETICHES AND THEIR HOUSES. 203public. They cried continually, " Now we are well! Now weare satisfied! Now be our friend, and do not hurt us! "The offerings of plantain, sugarcane, and ground- nuts, arewrapped in leaves by the free men, but the slaves lay them onthe bare ground. Sometimes Abambou is entreated to kill theenemies of him who is making the sacrifice. A bed is made inAbambou's house, and here he sometimes comes to rest himselfwhen he is tired of going up and down the coast. At the newmoon great quiet reigns in the Camma villages, and then thepeople pray to their spirits, of whom each family or subdivisionof the tribe owns two, kept in a small hut in the village of theoldest chief of that family.Mbuirri, whose house I'next visited, is lodged and kept muchas his rival. He is a good spirit, but has powers much the sameas Abambou, so far as I could see. Being less wicked, he isnot so zealously worshipped.There is a third and much dreaded spirit, called Ovengua.This is the terrible catcher and eater of men. He is not worshipped, and has no power over diseases. But he wandersunceasingly through the forests, and catches and destroys luckless travellers who cross his path. By day he lives in darkcaverns, but at night he roams freely; and even sometimes getsinto the body of a man, and beats and kills all who come out inthe dark. Sometimes, they relate, such a spirit is met andresisted by a body of men, who wound him with spears, andeven kill him. In this case his body must be burned, and noteven the smallest bone left, lest a new Ovengua should arisefrom it. There are many spots where no object in the worldwould induce a Camma negro to go by night, for fear of thisdreadful monster. It is really a frightful superstition to anignorant and credulous people, and I do not wonder at their fear.They have a singular belief that when a person dies, who hasbeen bewitched, the bones of his body leave the grave one byone, and form in a single line, which line of bones graduallybecomes an Ovengua.It is not an easy matter to get at the religious notions of thesepeople. They have no well-defined ideas of them themselves,and on many points they are not very communicative.I set out early on the 19th to try and get a shot at somebuffalo, which were said to be in the prairie at the back of the204 THE KING IS TRICKED. CHAP. XIII.town. Ifouta, a hunter, accompanied me, and met with anaccident through losing his presence of mind. We had been outabout an hour, when we came upon a bull feeding in the midstof a little prairie surrounded by a wood which made our approacheasy. Ifouta walked around opposite to where I lay in wait, inorder, that if the animal took alarm at him it might run towardsme; and then began to crawl, in the hunter fashion, throughthe grass towards his prey. All went well till he came nearenough for a shot. Just then, unluckily, the bull saw him.Ifouta immediately fired. The gun made a long fire, and heonly wounded the beast, which, quite infuriated, as it often is atthe attack of hunters, immediately rushed upon him.It was now that poor Ifouta lost his presence of mind. Insuch cases, which are continually happening to those who huntthe Bos brachicheros, the cue of the hunter is to remain perfectlyquiet till the beast is within a jump of him, then to step nimblyto one side, and let it rush past. But Ifouta got up and ran.Of course, in a moment the bull had him on his horns. Ittossed him high into the air once, twice, thrice, ere I could runup, and by my shouts, draw its fury to myself. Then it camerushing at me. But my guns do not hesitate, and, as I had afair shot, I killed it without trouble.Ifouta proved to be considerably bruised, but, on the whole,more scared than hurt; and when I had washed him in a creeknear by, he was able to walk home.The next day (20th of April) I was to go home, and the kingcame to take leave of me, when a funny scene occurred. HisMajesty made a long stay, and his subjects, some of whom wereawaiting his departure to do a little private trading with me, asthey dared not let the king see the goods they got of me, lost allpatience; so they sent in a messenger to say that a man wasanxious to speak to his Majesty in his house. The king wentoff, and had no sooner gone than in rushed the men, handed metheir ivory, and begged me to be quick and give them theirgoods. I had just done so when the king reappeared, witha stout stick in his hands, and laid about him in a great rageat having been made a fool of; while the poor wretches droppedtheir little bundles and made their escape as best they might.To return to Ranpano's town we took a different road bywhich we reached the river much quicker. The whole countryNATIVE TOSSED BYAWILD BUL .

CHAP. XIII. TOWN REMOVED. 205hereabouts is a beautiful prairie- land, well wooded at frequentintervals. On the road we passed a place in a forest whichis supposed to be haunted by the spirit of a crazy woman who,some generations ago, left her home in a neighbouring villageto live here, and who has been an object of dread to the negroesever since. They believe that she still cultivates her plantationin some hidden corner of the forest, and that she often lies inwait for travellers, whom she beats and kills out of pure malice.On the borders of the river we found the village of MakagaOungiou, the chief of which had come down to help fight theSangala people on my account, for which reason I was gladto be civil to him. The town was situated in a lovely spot, witha fine sandy prairie on one side and a forest on the other. Thescenery was very enticing. I should like to have stayed heresome time-the more so, as Makaga told me that the cry of thegorilla is heard frequently in these woods, and the animals aredaring enough to come down and rob the plantain and sugarcane plantations.We paddled all night, and reached Biagano on the morningof the 24th. Canoe navigation is not at any time pleasant, leastof all by night. But this time we had an added unpleasantnessin getting by accident among a school of gambolling hippopotami, who rose all around us, and, by their boisterous motions,several times nearly capsized us.I found, on my return, that all the Biagano people had movedfrom the seashore and built themselves huts near my house. Ihad reason to fear for my fowls and goats; but, on remonstrating, was assured by all hands that they would not steal from me,and that they did not want to live away from their white man.Tobacco was what brought them to me. They thought theywould get none unless they were near me. I was forced to besatisfied; and, indeed, must acknowledge that they behave withgreat propriety.On the 4th of May I had one of the greatest pleasures of mywhole life . Some hunters who had been out on my accountbrought in a young gorilla alive! I cannot describe the emotionswith which I saw the struggling little brute dragged into thevillage. All the hardships I had endured in Africa wererewarded in that moment.It was a little fellow of between two and three years old, two206 WE CATCH A LIVE GORILLA. CHAP. XIII.feet six inches in length, and as fierce and stubborn as a grownanimal could have been.Young Gorilla.My hunters, whom I could have hugged to my heart, took himin the country between the Rembo and Cape St. Catherine. Bytheir account, they were going, five in number, to a village nearthe coast, and walking very silently through the forest, whenthey heard what they immediately recognized as the cry ofa young gorilla for its mother. The forest was silent. Itwas about noon; and they immediately determined to follow thecry. Presently they heard it again. Guns in hand, the bravefellows crept noiselessly towards a clump of wood, where thebaby gorilla evidently was. They knew the mother wouldbe near; and there was a likelihood that the male, the mostdreaded of all, might be there too. But they determined torisk all, and, if at all possible, to take the young one alive,knowing what a joy it would be for me.Presently they perceived the bush moving; and crawling alittle further on in dead silence, scarce breathing with excitement, they beheld, what has seldom been seen even by thenegroes, a young gorilla, seated on the ground, eating someberries which grew close to the earth. A fewfeet further on satthe mother also eating of the same fruit.Instantly they made ready to fire; and none too soon, for theold female saw them as they raised their guns, and they hadonly to pull triggers without delay. Happily they wounded hermortally.CHAP. XIII. FEROCITY OF THE YOUNG BEAST. 207She fell. The young one, hearing the noise of the guns, ranto his mother and clung to her, hiding his face, and embracingher body. The hunters immediately rushed toward the two,hallooing with joy as they ran on. But this roused the littleone, who instantly let go his mother and ran to a small tree,which he climbed with great agility, where he sat and roared atthem savagely.They were now perplexed how to get at him. No one caredto run the chance of being bitten by this savage little beast, andshoot it they would not. At last they cut down the tree, and, asit fell, dexterously threw a cloth over the head of the youngmonster, and thus gained time to secure it while it was blinded.With all these precautions, one of the men received a severebite on the hand, and another had a piece taken out of his leg.As the little brute, though so diminutive, and the merestbaby for age, was astonishingly strong and by no means goodtempered, they could not lead him. He constantly rushed atthem. So they were obliged to get a forked stick in which hisneck was inserted in such a way that he could not escape, andyet could be kept at a safe distance. In this uncomfortable wayhe was brought into the village.There the excitement was intense. As the animal was liftedout of the canoe in which he had come a little way down theriver, he roared and bellowed, and looked around wildly with hiswicked little eyes, giving fair warning that if he could only getat some of us he would take his revenge.I saw that the stick hurt his neck, and immediately set aboutto have a cage made for him. In two hours we had builta strong bamboo house, with the slats securely tied at suchdistances apart that we could see the gorilla and it could see out.Here the thing was immediately deposited; and now, for thefirst time, I had a fair chance to look at my prize.It was a young male gorilla, evidently not yet three years old,fully able to walk alone, and possessed, for its age, of mostextraordinary strength and muscular development. Its greatestlength proved to be, afterwards, two feet six inches. Its faceand hands were very black, eyes not so much sunken as inthe adult. The hair began just at the eyebrows and roseto the crown, where it was of a reddish-brown. It came downthe sides of the face in lines to the lower jaw much as our beards208 DESCRIPTION OF THE CAPTIVE. CHAP. XIII.grow. The upper lip was covered with short coarse hair;the lower lip had longer hair. The eyelids very slight and thin.Eyebrows straight, and three-quarters of an inch long.The whole back was covered with hair of an iron-gray,becoming dark nearer the arms, and quite white about the anus.Chest and abdomen covered with hair, which was somewhat thinand short on the breast. On the arms the hair was longer thananywhere on the body, and of a grayish-black colour, caused bythe roots of the hair being dark and the ends whitish. On thehands and wrists the hair was black, and came down to thesecond joints of the fingers, though one could see in the shortdown the beginning of the long black hair which lines theupper parts of the fingers in the adult. The hair of the legs wasgrayish-black, becoming blacker as it reached the ankles, the feetbeing covered with black hair.When I had the little fellow safely locked in his cage, I ventured to approach to say a few encouraging words to him. Hestood in the furthest corner, but, as I approached, bellowedand made a precipitate rush at me; and though I retreated asquickly as I could, succeeded in catching my trouser- legs, whichhe grasped with one of his feet and tore, retreating immediatelyto the corner furthest away. This taught me caution for thepresent, though I had a hope still to be able to tame him.He sat in his corner looking wickedly out of his gray eyes,and I never saw a more morose or more ill-tempered face thanhad this little beast.The first thing was, of course, to attend to the wants of my captive. I sent for some of the forest-berries which these animalsare known to prefer, and placed these and a cup of water withinhis reach. He was exceedingly shy, and would neither eat nordrink till I had removed to a considerable distance.The second day found Joe, as I had named him, fiercer thanthe first. He rushed savagely at anyone who stood even for amoment near his cage, and seemed ready to tear us all to pieces.I threw him to-day some pineapple leaves, of which I noticed heate only the white parts. There seemed no difficulty about hisfood, though he refused now, and continued during his short lifeto refuse, all food except such wild leaves and fruits as weregathered from his native woods for him.The third day he was still morose and savage, bellowing whenCHAP. XIII. MY PRIZE IS UNTAMEABLE. 209any person approached, and either retiring to a distant corner orrushing to attack. On the fourth day, while no one was near,the little rascal succeeded in forcing apart two of the bamboorails which composed his cage, and made his escape. I came upjust as his flight was discovered, and immediately got all thenegroes together for pursuit, determining to surround the woodand recapture my captive. Running into the house to get one ofmyguns, I was startled by an angrygrowl issuing from under mylow bedstead. It was Master Joe, who lay there hid, but anxiouslywatching my movements. I instantly shut the windows, andcalled to my people to guard the door. When Joe saw the crowdof black faces he became furious, and, with his eyes glaring andevery sign of rage in his little face and body, got out from beneath the bed. We shut the door at the same time and lefthim master of the premises, preferring to devise some planfor his easy capture rather than to expose ourselves to his terrible teeth.How to take him was now a puzzling question. He had shownsuch strength and such rage already, that not even I cared to runthe chance of being badly bitten in a hand- to-hand struggle.Meantime Joe stood in the middle of the room looking about forhis enemies, and examining, with some surprise, the furniture. Iwatched with fear lest the ticking of my clock should strike hisear, and perhaps lead him to an assault upon that precious article.Indeed, I should have left Joe in possession, but for a fear thathe would destroy the many articles of value or curiosity I hadhung about the walls.Finally, seeing him quite quiet, I despatched some fellows fora net, and opening the door quickly, threw this over his head.Fortunately we succeeded at the first throw in fatally entanglingthe young monster, who roared frightfully, and struck and kickedin every direction under the net. I took hold of the back of hisneck, two men seized his arms and another the legs, and thusheld by four men this extraordinary little creature still provedmost troublesome. We carried him as quickly as we could tothe cage, which had been repaired, and there once more lockedhim in.I never saw so furious a beast in my life as he was. Hedarted at everyone who came near, bit the bamboos ofthe house, glared at us with venomous and sullen eyes, andP210 DEATH OF JOE. CHAP. XIII.in every motion showed a temper thoroughly wicked andmalicious.As there was no change in this for two days thereafter, butcontinual moroseness, I tried what starvation would do towardsbreaking his spirit; also, it began to be troublesome to procurehis food from the woods, and I wanted him to become accustomedto civilized food, which was placed before him. But he wouldtouch nothing of the kind; and as for temper, after starving himtwenty-four hours, all I gained was that he came slowly up andtook some berries from the forest out of my hand, immediatelyretreating to his corner to eat them.Daily attentions from me for a fortnight more did not bringme any further confidence from him than this. He alwayssnarled at me, and only when very hungry would he take evenhis choicest food from my hands. At the end of this fortnight Icame one day to feed him, and found that he had gnawed abamboo to pieces slyly and again made his escape. Luckily hehad but just gone; for, as I looked around, I caught sight ofMaster Joe making off on all fours, and with great speed, acrossthe little prairie for a clump of trees.I called the men up and we gave chace. He saw us, and beforewe could head him off made for another clump. This we surrounded. He did not ascend a tree, but stood defiantly at theborder of the wood. About one hundred and fifty of us surrounded him. As we moved up he began to yell, and made asudden dash upon a poor fellow who was in advance, who ran,tumbled down in affright, and, by his fall, escaped, but also detained Joe sufficiently long for the nets to be brought to bearupon him.Four of us again bore him struggling into the village . Thistime I would not trust him to the cage, but had a little lightchain fastened around his neck. This operation he resisted withall his might, and it took us quite an hour to securely chain thelittle fellow, whose strength was something marvellous.Ten days after he was thus chained he died suddenly. He wasin good health, and ate plentifully of his natural food, which wasbrought every day for him; did not seem to sicken until twodays before his death, and died in some pain. To the last hecontinued utterly untameable; and, after his chains were on,added the vice of treachery to his others. He would come some-CHAP. XIII. HIPPOPOTAMUS-HUNTING. 211times quite readily to eat out of my hand, but while I stood byhim would suddenly-looking me all the time in the face to keepmy attention-put out his foot and grasp at my leg. Severaltimes he tore my pantaloons in this manner, quick retreat on mypart saving my person; till at last I was obliged to be very careful in my approaches. The negroes could not come near him atall without setting him in a rage. He knew me very well, andtrusted me, but evidently always cherished a feeling of revengeeven towards me.After he was chained, I filled a half-barrel with hay and set itnear him for his bed. He recognized its use at once, and it waspretty to see him shake up the hay and creep into this nest whenhe was tired. At night he always again shook it up, and thentook some hay in his hands, with which he would cover himselfwhen he was snug in his barrel.On the 20th of May I went up the river about five miles toshoot hippopotami. There was here a place in the river shallowenough for them to stand in and play around; and here theyremained all day, playing in the deep water, or diving, but forthe most part standing on the shallows, with only their ugly nosespointed out of the water, and looking, for all the world, exactlylike so many old weather-beaten logs stranded on a sand-bar.We approached slowly and with caution, to within thirty yardsof the school, without seeming to attract the slightest attentionfrom the sluggish animals. Stopping there, I fired five shots,and, so far as I could see, killed three hippopotami. The ear isone of the most vulnerable spots, and this was my mark everytime. The first shot was received with but little attention; butthe struggles of the dying animal, which turned over severaltimes, and finally sank to the bottom, seemed to rouse the herd,who began to plunge about and dive down into the deep water.The blood of my victims discoloured the water all around, and wecould not see whether those which escaped were not swimmingfor us.Presently the boat received a violent jar, and, looking overboard, we perceived that we were in the midst of the herd.They did not, however, attack us, but were rather, I imagine,anxious to get away. We, too, pulled out of the way as fast aswe could, as I was not anxious to be capsized. Of the deadanimals we recovered but one, which was found two days after onP 2212 A NIGHT-HUNT. CHAP. XIII.a little island near the river's mouth. I think it likely that thenegroes secretly ate up the others as they washed ashore, fearingto tell me, lest I should claim the prizes.This was such poor sport that after Joe Gorilla died I determined to go on a night-hunt after hippopotami. These animalscome ashore by night to feed. As I have said before, the Fernand Vaz runs for many miles parallel with the seashore, separated from the sea by a strip of sandy prairie. On this prairiethe river-horses feed, and the " walk " of a herd is easily discernible at a great distance, looking very much like a regularbeaten road, only their immense tracks showing who are itsmakers. In the path no grass grows; but the ground is hard,and solidly beaten down by their constant passage to and fro. Itis curious that they will not even leave such a walk if they havebeen attacked there, but come back without fail. This gives thehunter a great advantage.We chose a moonlight night, and paddled up to the vicinity ofone of these " walks," where Igala, my hunter, and I set out byourselves. I had painted my face with a mixture of oil and soot,which is a prudent measure in a white hunter in Africa, wherethe beasts seem to have a singularly quick eye for anythingwhite. We chose the leeward side of the track, for the hippopotamus has a very nice smell, and is easily alarmed at night ,feeling probably, that on land his sluggish movements and hugebulk have their disadvantages. We lay down under shelter ofa bush and watched. As yet none of the animals had come outof the water. We could hear them snorting and plashing in thedistance, their subdued snort-like roars breaking in upon the stillnight in a very odd way. The moon was nearly down, and thewatch was getting tedious, when I was startled by a suddengroan, and, peering into the half-light, saw dimly a huge animal,looking doubly monstrous in the uncertain light. It was quietlyeating grass, which it seemed to nibble off quite close.There was another bush between us and our prey, and wecrawled up to this in dead silence. to this in dead silence. Arrived there we were butabout eight yards from the great beast. The negroes who huntthe hippopotamus are sometimes killed. The animal, if onlywounded, turns most savagely upon its assailant; and experiencehas taught the negro hunters that the only safe way to approachit is from behind. It cannot turn quickly, and thus the hunterCHAP. XIII. HABITS OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. 213has a chance to make good his escape. This time we couldnot get into a very favourable position, but I determined to havemy shot nevertheless, eight yards being safe killing distance,even with so poor a light as we had by this time.Igala and I both took aim. He fired; and, without waiting tosee the result, ran away as swiftly as a good pair of legs couldcarry him. I was not quite ready, but fired the moment afterhim; and, before I could get ready to run-in which I had notIgala's practice-I saw there was no need to do so. The beasttottered for a moment, and then fell over dead.This closed our night's sport, as none of the herd would comethis way while their companion lay there. So we returned home,poor Igala remonstrating with me for not running as he did, thisbeing, as it appeared, considered one of the chief accomplishments of the hippopotamus-hunter. Our good luck created greatjoy in the village, where meat was scarce. The men went out atdaylight and skinned the prize, and brought in the meat and hide.The latter I stuffed, and it is now in my collection.The meat does not taste unlike beef. It is rather coarse-grained,and not fat, and makes a welcome and wholesome dish. Theblacks are very fond of it.The hippopotamus is found in most of the rivers of Africawhich flow into the Atlantic or Indian oceans; but in none butthe Nile of those which flow into the Mediterranean. And inthe Nile it is only met far up. It is found in greatest abundancesouth of the equator and in the interior. Frequent as they werein the Fernand Vaz, I found them more numerous in the Ogobayand other of the interior streams, and have reason to believethat, in the far and as yet unexplored centre, they are morenumerous still. It is a very clumsily-built, unwieldy animal; butremarkable chiefly for its enormous head, whose upper mandibleseemed to me moveable like the crocodile's, and for its disproportionately short legs. The male is much larger than the female;indeed, a full-grown male sometimes attains the bulk, though notthe height, of the elephant. In the larger specimens the bellyalmost sweeps the ground as they walk.The feet are curiously constructed, to facilitate their walkingamong the reeds and mud of the river-bottoms, and swimmingwith ease. The hoof is divided into four short, apparentlyclumsy, and unconnected toes; and they are able, by this spread214 FOOD OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. CHAP. XIII .of foot, to walk rapidly even through mud. I have seen themmake quick progress, when alarmed, in water so deep that theirbacks were just on the river-level.The skin of an adult hippopotamus is from one and a half totwo inches thick, and extremely solid and tough-quite bulletproof, in fact, except in a few thinner spots, as behind the earand near the eyes. It is devoid of hair, with the exception of afew short bristly hairs in the tail , and a few scattered tufts, offour or five hairs each, near the muzzle. The colour of the skinis a clayey yellow, assuming a roseate hue under the belly. Inthe grown animal the colour is a little darker. The teeth are:4Incisors ,; canines,1-1; molars,6-66-6 - 36 in all.After watching for a great many times the movements of thehippopotamus, I became assured that the huge crooked tusks,which give its mouth so savage an appearance, are designedchiefly to hook up the long river-grasses on which these animals.feed in great part. Often I have seen one descend to the bottom,remain a few minutes, and re-appear with its tusks strung withgrass which was then leisurely chewed up. They make thewhitest of all ivory, and in the Camma country the beasts aremuch hunted for the sake of the tusks, as the dentists of Europemake a demand for this white ivory.The animals consort together in flocks of from three tothirty. They choose shallows in the rivers, where the depthof the water allows them to keep their footing, and yet havetheir whole bodies submerged. Here they remain all day,swimming off into the deeps and diving for their grassy food,gambolling in the waves, and from time to time throwing up astream of water two or three feet high. This is done with anoise like " blowing," and is doubtless an effort for breath.It is pleasant to watch a flock peacefully enjoying themselves,particularly when they have two or three young among them.The little fellows, who are comically awkward, play about theirdams, and I have often seen them seated on the back of themother, and chasing each other about the shoals.They prefer parts of the rivers where the current is not veryswift, and are therefore to be found in all the lakes in theinterior. Also, they prefer to be near their grass-fields . TheyCHAP. XIII. TIMIDITY OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. 215are very fond of a particular coarse grass which grows on theseprairies, and will travel considerable distances to hunt this up,always returning, however, before daylight. Their path overland is very direct. Neither rocks, nor swamps, nor bushes canprove formidable obstacles to a water-beast of such bulk; andone of their peculiarities is that they will always return to thewater by the same road they came. Unless much pursued andharassed, they are not very much afraid of man. Some of theirfavourite grass was growing on a little plain at the back of myhouse, and several times I found hippopotamus-tracks not morethan fifty yards from the house. They had not feared to comeas near as this; though, probably, if the wind had been from meto them, they would have avoided the place.They always choose a convenient landing-place, one wherethe bank has a long and easy incline, and this they use till theyhave eaten up all the provender which lies in that vicinity.Before going ashore they watch for an hour, and sometimes fortwo hours, near the landing, remaining quiet themselves andlistening for danger. The slightest token of the hunter'spresence on such occasions sends them away for that night. Ifno danger appears, they begin to wander ashore in twos andthrees. I never saw more than three of a flock grazing together;and during their stay ashore they place more dependence ontheir ears than on their eyes. I have watched closely in manyhunts, and am convinced that the beast walks along with hiseyes nearly shut. This makes the approach easier, though theirhearing is very quick; and it is common to get within three orfour yards before firing. I generally tried to get at least asnear as four yards, and found my most successful aim to be ata spot near the shoulder, and one just behind the ear.When playing in the water this animal makes a noise verymuch resembling the grunt of a pig. This grunt it also utterswhen alarmed at the near approach of man. The stuffed skinloses its original colour, so that our stuffed specimens do notgive a true idea of the clay-colour of the live beast. Its excrement is like the horse's, but smaller and dryer.When enraged, or suddenly disturbed, it utters a kind ofgroan, a hoarse sound, which can be heard at a considerabledistance. They are very combative among themselves, and Ioften saw marks on their bodies of desperate conflicts. One, a·216 COMBAT OF HIPPOPOTAMI, CHAP. XIII.male which I killed, had its thick hide lacerated in a frightfulmanner in numerous stripes, from a fight. The young malessuffer particularly in these encounters, as they are much imposedupon by the grown males, who are jealous of them. Theirprincipal weapons of offence are their huge tusks, with whichthey strike most savage blows.It was my good fortune once to be witness to a combatbetween two hippopotami. It occurred in broad daylight. Iwas concealed on the bank of the stream, and had been forsome time watching the sports of a herd, when suddenly twohuge beasts rose to the surface of the water and rushed together.Their vast and hideous mouths were opened to their widestpossible extent; their eyes were flaming with rage, and everypower was put forth by each to annihilate the other. Theyseized each other with their jaws; they stabbed and punchedwith their strong tusks; they advanced and retreated; werenow at the top of the water, and again sank down to the bottom.Their blood discoloured the river, and their groans of rage werehideous to listen to. They showed little powers of strategy,but rather a piggish obstinacy in maintaining their ground, anda frightful savageness of demeanour. The combat lasted anhour. It was evident that their tusks could not give verydangerous wounds to such thickly-protected bodies as theirs.At last one turned about and made off, leaving the othervictorious and master of the field.My observations lead me to believe that in general the hippopotamus will not wantonly attack a canoe passing on the river.They either do not seem to notice it at all, or else avoid it bydiving under water. They are troublesome beasts, however, tothe traveller paddling along in a frail canoe, for they are veryapt to rise suddenly under a boat and throw it over, to theirown alarm, as well as to the inconvenience and danger of thepassengers. In some instances the huge beast becomes desperate from fright, thinks himself attacked, and with great ragedemolishes the canoe. But even in such cases I have not heardof their ever touching the swimming passengers, who have onlyto keep away from the canoe to make sure their escape. Oneof my men related an adventure of this kind which happened tohim and others a few years ago. They were capsized by ahippopotamus, which rose suddenly under their canoe.In anCHAP. XIII. NEGRO HIPPOPOTAMUS-HUNTING. 217instant, and with the greatest fury, the animal turned upon thecanoe, which he did not leave till he had broken it into smallpieces. But he did not even seem to see the men, who swamoff, and reached the shore without hurt.The negroes hunt the hippopotamus only with guns. In thoseparts where they have not yet obtained guns they never attackit, but leave it undisputed master of the forest and river; forthey can but very seldom indeed succeed in entrapping it intothe pits which are dug for this and some other of the largeranimals.218 UP THE RIVER. CHAP. XIV.CHAPTER XIV.― --The Anengue Lake - Canoes - River Scenery -Nature of the Country -The Lagoons Navigation India-rubber Vines Mercantile Productsand Facilities - Porcupine-hunts - Quengueza, the great King - Change of Season - Variety in animal Life · - Birds of Passage· Fish - Bee- eater- Serpents - The Rivers in the dry Season-Curious Habits of this Bird —---- The Lagoons in the dry Season - Immense Numbers of CrocodilesDamagondai Witchcraft A Curtain Lecture Shimbouvenegani-- ―An Olako Royal Costume - Discover a new Ape- The Nshiego Mbouvé,or Nest- building Ape (Troglodytes Calvus) - How they build - HabitsFood -Description of the first specimen - A Crocodile- hunt Canoes - The Ogata - Turtle --AnengueHow the Crocodile gets his Prey — AFight looms up ahead -Oshoria backs down - People of the AnengueFamily Idols - Worship - Sickness —Bola Ivoga - African Festivals ·A - clear Case of Witchcraft - A native Doctor Exorcising a WitchMy Town is deserted — I am made a Chief — We get a second youngGorilla - I am poisoned with Arsenic -Trial of the Poisoner SingularEffect of Arsenic.WHEN poor Joe Gorilla died I prepared to set out upon myexplorations up river. The hope of taming him kept me atBiagano till then.We were to make a start on the evening of May 27th, andon that morning I called king and people together, and gavethem charge of my property; declaring that if anything werestolen during my absence I would surely shoot the thief.They all protested that I need not even lock the doors of myhouse. But I thought it best not to expose them to too muchtemptation.I next counted my ten goats in their presence, and told themI wanted no leopard-stories told me when I came back—atwhich they shouted and laughed, and declared neither they northe leopard should touch them. Then I gave one of my mensome goods to trade for ivory, another some with which to buyebony, and left one of my Mpongwe fellows in charge of myentire premises, locking the doors. And then I was ready togo off.I had twelve stout paddlers in my canoe, which was ladenpretty deeply with provisions for myself, and with trade-goodsCHAP. XIV . DIFFICULT NAVIGATION. 219for the people I was to meet, and which I had entrusted to oneof Ranpano's sons. My object on this trip was to ascend theNpoulounay, a branch of the Ogobay, as far as a great swampycountry which the Camma fellows were always talking of, andwhich no white man had yet seen. The reader can follow mycourse on the chart.We found the Npoulounay for the first eight miles to runthrough the mangrove-swamps, which render navigation so disagreeable. Above that the banks became higher and clearer.Starting about three o'clock in the afternoon, we pulled tillfour next morning, when all hands were worn out, and we wentashore on a little island to get a nap. But here the musquitoesassailed us in such numbers that, though we could stretch ourlegs, sleep was out of the question. As soon as daylight camewe were off again.At about sixty miles from Biagano we came to a fork in theriver. We took the right branch. A few miles further upthere was another tributary, which we entered, as this led tothe lake. The stream was here about two hundred yards wide,but with very low, marshy banks, and no wood. Immensefields of reeds and other water-weeds covered the marshy soilas far as we could see from our little canoe, and gave the landscape an aspect of utter desolation. The stream had scarce anycurrent, the water was turbid, and the smell of decaying vegetation exceedingly unpleasant. In the far distance beyond theplains we could see the outlines of hills and higher plains.Where these join the marsh, crocodiles are found in greatplenty, as I was told now by the natives, and found for myselfafterwards.While I was wondering at the change in this sluggish riverfrom the rapid-flowing Ogobay, we came suddenly to whatseemed the end of navigation in this direction. The river washere as wide as at the mouth, but closed suddenly. Paddlinground the shore, to try for some possible outlet, for it would betoo bad to have taken so much trouble to get into this nastycul-de-sac, we found at length a stream, not more than six yardswide, which poured with a tolerably rapid current into whatseemed to me now only a lagoon. Up this narrow avenue wepushed, much doubting where it would lead us, for none of mymen had been here before, and I was going by guesswork.220 AN AFRICAN JOKE. CHAP. XIV.As we ascended the narrow, deep little stream, it branchedoff in several places, and became gradually narrower, till at lastwe were pushing our canoe laboriously along through a deep,crooked ditch, not more than two yards wide, and overhungwith tall reeds, on which great numbers of birds were balancingthemselves, as though enjoying our dilemma.For two hours we pushed along in this way, and I was uponthe point of giving up and returning, when we suddenly emergedinto the long-looked-for lake of Anengue. A vast body ofwater, at least ten miles wide, and dotted with various beautifulwooded isles, was spread suddenly before our gladdened eyes.We lay on our paddles and gazed about us. On one side thelake is bounded by hills which come close down to the shore.On the other the hills recede, and between them and the waterlies a dreary extent of low marsh. Several towns were in sight,all located at the summits of hills, and towards one of thesewe pushed with what speed we could, for all hands were tiredand hungry. For though we had breakfasted on bananas andsugarcane early in the morning at a deserted village, this isnot very substantial food; and of meat none of us had partakensince leaving Biagano.This deserted village deserves to be mentioned, if only for acheerful joke made upon it by one of my men. It is generalin this country for the people to leave their town if the chiefdies under suspicion of having been bewitched, and such lonelyhuts and abandoned plantations are therefore common whereverthe traveller goes. The natives in general regard such with asuperstitious fear, believing that the spirits of the departedremain and keep guard over the property left. But my menwere " sick of hunger," as they said, and had now, from contactwith me, become somewhat less superstitious; so that no onerefused to go ashore, or, when there, to eat, as well as we couldeat for the savage onslaught of the musquitoes. While we weregrumbling at finding so little comfort, one of them said it wasevidently not the spirits which had driven off the people here,but the musquitoes; which was thought, and was really, atremendous joke for this latitude, and set us all into goodhumour again.About two o'clock we arrived at the village of King Damagondai. A great crowd was assembled to receive us, visitors notCHAP. XIV. GREAT INDIA-RUBBER COUNTRY. 221being frequent here; and when the presence of a wonderfulwhite man became known, the anxiety of the people to see meknew no bounds. Quarters were provided for me by the king,who was rejoiced to see me, and sent me a goat; which, in thispart of the country, where they have no tame cattle, is as muchas half-a-dozen bullocks would be in South Africa.From the 1st to the 10th of June I spent in exploring thelake and its islands. I find everywhere deep water enough forsteamers of moderate draught to have free play, though in thedry season I was told there are a good many shoals, though notenough, I should think, to interfere with navigation, The wholecountry around is literally filled with the India-rubber vine.Immense quantities of the best caoutchouc might here be got,and with very little trouble, if only the natives had some one toshow them how to gather it without destroying the vines, andwithout getting it so mixed with impure matter as to destroy itscommercial value. It was enough to make a trader's mouthwater to see the immense quantity of land covered with this vine.Here are chances for a commerce which I think our Americanmerchants will not long leave unworked. And then we mayhope to see a real and enduring civilization step in and helpthese poor natives upward a little.For the present they are a lazy but good-natured peoplehereabouts; ready enough to work, if they could only be sureto get some pay for their labour, but with little energy, becausethey see no possibility of a direct connexion with the seashore.Game is not very abundant in this part of the country, and theanimal most hunted is the porcupine. They hunt with dogs,which track the truculent little beast to its lair or burrow, whenceit is dug out by the men. The hunt was too laborious to becounted sport, though the natives seemed to enjoy it amazingly.The dogs hunted by scent, and never barked at a deserted hole.The porcupine is only found at the foot of the range of hillswhich rises about ten miles from the village I was stopping at.Here it burrows among the huge boulders which cover theground. Several times we came upon them wandering about,and shot them outright. I noticed that the dogs were verycareful not to touch the animal till they were sure it was dead,having probably had sad experience of its sharp spines.It is as well to add here that, though most of the West African222 KING QUENGUEZA. CHAP. XIV.villages have crowds of dogs, I could never learn of a case ofhydrophobia, nor did the natives even know of such a disease asmadness in dogs.While on a porcupine-hunt the tube of one of my guns wasaccidentally broken, and on June 10th I had the misfortune tobreak my remaining gun by a vexatious accident in hunting amarabout. I had wounded the bird, and was running after it,but it could run faster than I. When quite near it, in myeagerness I struck at it with my gun, missed my aim, andshattered the stock and bent the barrel on a stone.it necessary to return to Biagano.This madeMy coming back was fortunate, for in a few days after came ahigh and mighty visitor from far up the River Rembo. KingQuengueza, of whom I had often heard from the Camma men,lives up the Rembo about ninety miles, and is sovereign over alarge tribe of people. He was a man whom I had not evenhoped to see here, and whose influence and friendship I was veryglad to have. He came down in considerable state, in threecanoes, with three of his favourite wives, and about one hundredand thirty men. When he saw me he was much astonished, andsaid he had heard of me for a great hunter, and had expected tosee a tall and stout man, and not such a feeble body as mine.He was now convinced, he said, that I must have a brave heart,to hunt as I did.Fortunately the king and I could talk together without aninterpreter, so that I did not need any rascally Camma toconfound my words and misrepresent my wishes, as they are aptto do, not caring to have white men trade with the interior, oreven explore it.He told me there were plenty of gorilla and nschiegos in hiscountry, and that if I would come I should have liberty and protection to hunt and do what I pleased. I was ready to go immediately, but he said the fall of the rainy season would be the besttime, and so I put my visit off.I sent the kind-hearted old fellow off well contented, with hiscanoes full of presents of iron bars, brass rods, &c. , and about onehundred dollars' worth of goods on trust to buy me ebony with.He promised me great sport, and an introduction to some tribesof whom even these Camma knew nothing, and who are,therefore, beyond even their ultima Thule. To do him greaterCHAP. XIV. THE COAST IN THE DRY SEASON. 223honour, my people fired a salute as he started off, with which hewas highly delighted-as an African is sure to be with anynoise.The dry season was now setting in in earnest, and I devotedthe whole month of July to exploring the country along the seashore. It is curious that most of the birds which were soabundant during the rainy season had by this time taken theirleave, and other birds, in immense numbers, flocked in to feedon the fish, which now leave the seashore and the bars of theriver-mouth, and ascend the river to spawn.The breakers on the shore were now frightful to see. Thecoast was rendered inaccessible by them even to the natives, andthe surf increased to that degree at the mouth of the river even,that it was difficult to enter with ' a canoe. Strong breezesprevailed, and though the sky was constantly overcast, no dropof rain fell . The thermometer fell sometimes to 64° ofFahrenheit, and I suffered from cold, as did also the poor natives,who make no provision of thick clothing for such weather, thoughit is the same every year. The grass on the prairies was driedup to powder. The ponds are dried up; only the woods keeptheir resplendent green.At this season the negroes leave their villages and work ontheir plantations. Biagano was almost deserted; all hands wereon the farms; the women harvesting the crop of ground-nuts,one of the staples of this country, and the men building canoesand idling around. Their farms are necessarily at some distanceoff, as the sandy prairie is not fit to cultivate, being only, in fact,a deposit ofthe sea.Fish, particularly mullet, were so abundant in the river thatsometimes, when I took my evening constitutional in a canoe onthe water, enough mullet leaped into the boat to furnish me abreakfast next day.Birds flocked in immense numbers on the prairies, whitherthey came to hatch their young.The ugly marabouts, from whose tails our ladies get thesplendid feathers for their bonnets, were there in thousands.Pelicans waded on the river-banks all day in prodigious swarms,gulping down the luckless fish which came in their way. I lovedto see them swimming about in grave silence, and every momentgrabbing up a poor fish, which, if not hungry, they left in their224 NATURE IN THE DRY SEASON. CHAP. XIV.huge bag, till sometimes three or four pounds of reserve foodthus awaited the coming of their appetite.And on the sandy point, one morning, I found great flocks ofthe Ibis religiosa (the sacred Ibis of the Egyptians), which hadarrived overnight, whence I could not tell.Cranes,Ducks of various kinds built their nests in every creek and onevery new islet that appeared with the receding waters. I usedto hunt these till I got tired of duck-meat, fine as it is.too, and numerous other waterfowl flocked in, every day bringingnew birds. All come, by some strange instinct, to feed upon thevast shoals of fish which literally filled the river.On the seashore I sometimes caught a bird, the Sula capensis,which had been driven ashore by the treacherous waves to whichit had trusted itself, and could not, for some mysterious reason,get away again.And finally, every sand-bar is covered with gulls, whose shrillscreams are heard from morning till night as they fly aboutgreedily after their finny prey. It is a splendid time nowfor sportsmen; and I thought of some of my New York friendswho would have enjoyed such great plenty of game as was nowhere.Land birds are equally plentiful; but I have time to enumerate only one curious species. This is the bee-eater, of which Idiscovered two new species. A common one is the Meropicusbicolor -a splendid little fellow, whose breast, of a gorgeousroseate hue, looks as he flies about like a lump of fire. The beeeaters feed on bees and flies, and are remarkable for the neststhey build. These are holes in the ground, always on the edgeof some bank or acclivity, and from three to four feet deep.Great numbers of these nests are found in every hill-side, and inthese they sleep at night.Serpents are not so common as in the rainy season, but do notaltogether abandon the country, as I had reason to discover onenight. I had retired to rest, but was roused by a tremendousfluttering among my chickens. I rushed out immediatelyexpecting to catch a thief, but found nobody; and as the houseswere not broken into, returned to my own room, thinking it wasonly a false alarm. But I was no sooner in than I rushed outagain, for, in the dim light, I found myself upon the point ofstepping upon a huge black snake which had come in duringCHAP. XIV. TO THE ANENGUE AGAIN. 225my absence. I had my gun in my hand, and lost no time inblowing his head to pieces with cold lead. He was ten feet long,and of a kind whose bite is said bythe negroes to be fatal. Thehideous beast was just swallowing one of my chickens whenI killed it. It had been among the fowls, which accounted forthe noise I heard. The negroes rushed in when they heardthe report of my gun, and with great joy cut off the head of theirenemy. This was thrown into the river, but the slaves cookedthe body and ate it.As Quengueza could not be visited till the rainy seasonreturned, I determined to make another trip to the Anenguecountry; and to this I was the more induced, as I wished toascertain what chances there were for steam navigation in the dryseason, when the water is at its lowest. At high water it is deepenough all the way up.Accordingly, on the 1st of August, I started, with the canoesand a crew well armed, for fear we might be interrupted, as someof the people come up this way to make plantations in the dryseason, and might dispute our advance. I determined to let noman barthe road to me. I found the Npoulounay shallower, butyet quite practicable for a steamer of light draught; and whenwe got into the Ogobay the water was still deeper—this being inevery way a nobler stream. Yet there is a difference in thedepth of the Ogobay, between dry and rainy seasons, of aboutfifteen feet. Nowthe river was covered with muddy islands, leftdry and covered with reeds; among which sported the flamingo-a bird not seen here in the wet season. All these reedy isletswere submerged when I passed up last May.There are very few villages betweeen Biagano and theAnengue-we counted but seven; and yet the country seemshabitable enough. I was struck with the immense height ofsome of the palm-trees which lined the banks. They were reallygiants even in these primitive woods.Ogobay, under ourThese nets, whichWe slept the first night on an island in themusquito-nets, of which I had laid in a store.the natives also use, are made of a grass-cloth which comes from.the far interior, and which is too thick to be comfortable in thehouse, but does very well out-of-doors, where it keeps out thedews as well, and protects the sleeper against the cold windswhich prevail. The next morning I saw, for the first time, a fogQ226in this part of Africa.it away.CROCODILES. CHAP. XIV.It was very thick, but the sun soon droveI sent out my net, and, in a few minutes, the men caught fishenough for supper and breakfast.The lowbanks of the Ogobay were now dry, and covered withreeds. The river ran in its regular channel, and was aboutfourteen or fifteen feet lower than last May, though stillpracticable for light-draught steamers. These low banks, whichare submerged in the rainy season, will make splendid rice-fieldswhen all this country comes to be civilized. Here might begrown rice enough to supply all the country round, even ifthickly settled.Coming to where the Ogobay is divided by an island into twochannels, we took the one I passed last May, but found ourselvesnearly stopped by a sand-bank which reached clear across, andhad but three feet of water on it. But it was a narrow bar, andcould be easily cut in two. Then we entered the Anengue; butthis river we found entirely changed from last May. Then itwas a deep, swift stream; now its surface was dotted with numberless black mud-banks, on which swarmed incredible numbersof crocodiles. We actually saw many hundreds of these disgusting monsters sunning themselves on the black mud, and slippingoff into the water to feed. I never saw so horrible a sight. Manywere at least twenty feet long; and, when they opened theirfrightful mouths, looked capable of swallowing our little canoeswithout trouble.I determined to have a shot at these beasts, who seemed noways frightened at our approach. Making my men paddle pretty'well in, I singled out the biggest of a school, and lodged a ballin his body by way of the joints of his forelegs, where the thickarmour is defective. He tumbled over, and, after struggling inthe water for a moment, sank into the mud. His companionsturned their hideous snaky eyes down at him in momentary surprise, but did not know what to make of it, and dropped back totheir sluggish comfort. I shot another, but he sank also; and asmy men did not like to venture into the black mud after them,we got neither.When we came to the narrow and intricate channel of lastMay, we found, to my surprise, a tremendous current running.Last May the water of the lake had overflowed its shores, andCHAP. XIV. THE LAKE. 227its regular outlets had, therefore, no great pressure upon them.Now this outlet was crowded with water, which rushed throughat such a rate that, at some of the turns in the crooked channel,we were actually swept back several times before we could makeour way good. At one point, where two outlets joined, we couldnot pass till I made the men smoke their condouquai (a longreed pipe), which seems to give them new vigour, and gave themalso a swallow of my brandy. This done, they gave a greatshout and pushed through; and, in a short hour, we emergedupon the lake.The lake, alas! had changed with the season, too. It was stilla beautiful sheet of water, and good enough for navigation. Butall over its placid face the dry season had brought out an eruption of those black mud-islands which we had noticed below;and on these reposed, I fear to say what numbers of crocodiles.Wherever the eye was turned, these disgusting beasts, with theirdull leer, and huge, savage jaws, appeared in prodigious numbers.The water was alive with fish, on which I suppose the crocodileshad fat living. But pelicans and herons, ducks, and otherwater-birds also abounded, drawn hither by the abundance of their prey.Paddling carefully past great numbers of crocodiles, into whoseready jaws I was by no means anxious to fall, and past severalnative villages, we at last reached the town of my old friendDamagondai, who stood upon the shore ready to receive me. Hewas dressed in the usual middle-cloth of the natives, and a tarnished scarlet soldier-coat, but was innocent of trousers. But hiswelcome was none the less hearty, though the unmentionableswere lacking.His town, which contains about fifty huts, lies on some highground at a little distance from the water; and the people cameto meet us on the shady walk which connects them with the lake.Everybody seemed glad to see us. I distributed presents of tobacco, gave the king some cloth, and put him in a good-humour,though he could scarce forgive me for not bringing him rum also.I noticed in the middle of the village a strongly-built goat- house,which is a sign that leopards sometimes come this way.Damagondai put all his town at my disposal, and suggestedthat I had better pick out two or three of the best-looking girlsfor wives for myself. He was somewhat amazed when I declinedQ 2228 A NIGHT WITH AN AFRICAN KING. CHAP. XIV.this pleasant offer, and insisted upon it that my bachelor life mustbe very lonely and disagreeable.The king is a tall, rather slim negro, over six feet high, andwell put together, as most of these men are. I suppose in war orin the chace, he had the usual amount of courage, but at homehe was exceedingly superstitious. As night came on he seemedto get a dread of death. He grew querulous; told the men tostop their noise; and at last began to groan out that some of thepeople wanted to bewitch him in order to get his property andhis authority. Finally he got excited, and began to curse allwitches and sorcerers; said no one should have his wives andslaves; and, in fact, became so maudlin that I interfered, anddeclared there were no witches, and his fears were absurd.Of course I received the stereotyped answer, "There may benone among your white people; but it is very different amongus, because we have known many men who were bewitched anddied." To such an argument there is no reply. They alwaysinsist that we are a distinct race, and have few things in commonwith them. Those ethnologists who hold to diversity of races ofmen would receive readier credence here in savage Africa thanthey obtain in America or Europe.When my objections had been settled, the old fellow began tolecture his wives, telling them to love him and to feed him well,for he had given a great deal of money and goods to their parentsfor them, and they were a constant expense and uneasiness tohim; to all which the poor women listened with great respect;and no doubt made up their grateful hearts to give their lord andmaster a good breakfast next morning.At last this dreariest of African nights got too slow for thepeople, who suddenly struck up a dance and forgot all aboutwitchcraft. And I, too, was tired, and went to my dreams.The Anengue people, though they intermarry with their neighbours the Camma, are not permitted to come down to the seashore for trade. This would disturb the monopoly, and monopolyis the most sacred thing in West Africa. The consequence isthat they have no energy or life among them. They are idle,and lie about doing absolutely nothing day after day. Once ina great while they kill an elephant and dispatch its tusks downto the sea; but the small returns they get, after the Cammahave taken off their rascally percentage, does not encourageCHAP. XIV. KING SHIMBOUVENEGANI. 229them to trade. They are not great hunters, the vast shoals offish in the lake giving them a sufficiency of food without huntingfor it. They also eat the meat of crocodiles, which they harpoonwith a rude kind of jagged spear. During my stay I and mycrew lived almost entirely on fish, which were caught in a netI had brought along. There is one fine fish, called the condo,which is really delicious, and fit for the table of the greatestgourmand.On the 5th, the day after our arrival, Damagondai took meacross the lake to the village of one Shimbouvenegani, a kingwith a big name and a small village, who lives fifteen miles off,at the eastern end of the lake. I found the water now very shallow in places, though affording passage still for light- draughtvessels. The little islets were quite numerous. On the hillswhich formed the boundary of the lagoon at high water, I sawplenty of ebony-trees on the side I had not before visited. Thusebony and India- rubber are both to be got here.We found the king with the long name not at his village, butat his olako, a place temporarily erected in the woods when thepeople of a village want to hunt, or fish, or pursue agriculture.They had chosen a charming spot in the woods just upon theshores of the lake, which here had high abrupt banks, and lookedmore like a pleasant river than a lagoon. Their musquito-netswere hung up under the trees, and every family had a fire built,and from the pots came the fragrant smell of plantains and fishcooking. We were seated at a rude table, and presently Shimbouvenegani came up, rejoiced to see me. The usual ceremonyof introduction was gone through, Damagondai relating that hehad brought his white man over here because game was plenty,and to do a favour to his friend the king.The latter was a meagre negro of between sixty and seventyyears old, dressed in a very dirty swallow-tailed coat, and inwhat was so I judged—some thirty or forty years ago a silk orbeaver hat. This is an article which only kings are permittedto wear in West Africa, and my friend seemed very proud of it.His dress did not amount to much, from the New York standpoint, but I doubt not it had cost him several hundred dollars'worth of ivory-and so he had a fashionably- recognized right tofeel that his appearance was "the thing."The people gathered about to examine my hair—that constant230 THE NSHIEGO MBOUVE. CHAP. XIV.marvel to the interior negroes; and presently some large pots ofpalm-wine were brought, whereupon all hands proceeded to celebrate my arrival among them. I added some tobacco, and thentheir happiness was complete.Meantime Damagondai had presented me to his eldest son,Okabi, who lived in this village. It is curious that in thiscountry the eldest son of a chief always lives abroad. Okabihurried off to fix a little privacy of tree-branches for my use, putup a table for me, and arranged his akoko or bed for my sleeping; then gave me in charge to his two wives, who were to takecare of me.It was charming weather, and I enjoyed all this travellingabout very much.The next morning Shimbouvenegani sent me some plantainsand a quantity of sugarcane by the hands of a young blackwoman, who also brought a message that she was to be mywife. I had to decline the matrimonial proposal, which seemedto grieve the black nymph, while her royal master was merelysurprised, but evidently thought that it was right I should do asI pleased.This day we went out on a hunt- -one of those hunts which aremarked with the brightest of red ink in my calendar. On thisday I discovered a new and very curious ape. We had beentravelling some hours, when we came upon a male and female ofthe Bos brachicheros. I shot the bull, a splendid fellow, who furnished us dinner and supper. After dinner we marched on, andhad a weary time of it for some hours, the ground being swampyand no game in sight. As I was trudging along, rather tired ofthe sport, I happened to look up at a high tree which we werepassing, and saw a most singular-looking shelter built in itsbranches. I asked Okabi whether the hunters here had thishabit of sleeping in the woods, but was told, to my surprise, thatthis very ingenious nest was built by the nshiego mbouvé, an ape,as I found afterwards, which I put in the genus Troglodytes, andcalled Troglodytes calvus; an animal which had no hair on itshead-so Okabi told me.I saw at once that I was on the trail of an animal till nowunknown to the civilized world. A naturalist will appreciate thejoy which filled me at this good fortune. I no longer felt tired,but pushed on with renewed ardour and with increased caution,CHAP. XIV. HABITS OF THE NSHIEGO. 231determined not to, rest till I killed this nest-building ape. Onesuch discovery pays the weary naturalist-hunter for many monthsof toil and hardship. I felt already rewarded for all the inconveniences and expenses of my Camma trip. I have noticed thatit is always at the most unexpected moment that such a piece ofluck befalls a poor fellow.I saw many of these nests after this, and may as well say herethat they are generally built about fifteen or twenty feet fromthe ground, and invariably on a tree which stands a little apartfrom others, and which has no limbs belowthe one on which thenest is placed. I have seen them at the height of fifty feet, butvery seldom. This choice is probably made that they may besafe at night from beasts, serpents, and falling limbs. Theybuild only in the loneliest parts of the forest, and are very shy,and seldom seen even by the negroes.Okabi, who was an old and intelligent hunter, was able totell me that the male and female together gather the materialfor their nests. This material consists of leafy branches withwhich to make the roof, and vines to tie these branches to thetree. The tying is done so neatly, and the roof is so wellconstructed, that until I saw the nshiego actually occupying hishabitation, I could scarce persuade myself that human handshad not built it. It throws off rain perfectly, being neatlyrounded at the top for this purpose.The material being collected, the male goes up and builds thenest, while the female brings him the branches and vines. Themale and female do not occupy the same tree, but have nestsnot far apart.From all I have observed, I judge that the nshiego is not gregarious. The nests are never found in companies; and I have seeneven quite solitary nests occupied by very old nshiegos-mbouvé,whose silvery hair and worn teeth attested their great age.These seemed hermits who had retired from the nshiego world.They live on wild berries, and build their houses where theyfind these. When they have consumed all that a particularspot affords, they remove and build new houses, so that a nestis not inhabited for more than eight or ten days.We travelled with great caution, not to alarm our prey, andhad a hope that, singling out a shelter and waiting till dark,we should find it occupied. In this hope we were not dis-232 A NSHIEGO KILLED. CHAP. XIV.appointed. Lying quite still in our concealment (which triedmy patience sorely), we at last, just at dusk, heard the loudpeculiar " Hew! Hew! Hew! " which is the call of the male tohis mate. We waited till it was quite dark, and then I sawwhat I had so longed all the weary afternoon to see. A nshiegowas sitting in his nest. His feet rested on the lower branch;his head reached quite into the little dome of a roof, and hisarm was clasped firmly about the tree-trunk. This is their wayof sleeping.After gazing till I was tired through the gloom at my poorsleeping victim, two of us fired, and the unfortunate beast fellat our feet without a struggle or even a groan.We built a fire at once, and made our camp in this place,that when daylight came I might first of all examine and skinmy prize. The poor ape was hung up, to be out of the wayof the bashikouay and other insects, and I fell asleep on mybed of leaves and grass, as pleased a man as the world could well hold. *Nshiego Mbouvé (young).

• For description of the animal, see Proceedings of the Boston Society of

Natural History,' June, 1860.CHAP. XIV. DESCRIPTION OF THE NSHIEGO. 233Next morning I had leisure to examine the nshiego. I wasat once struck with the points of difference between it and thechimpanzee. It was somewhat smaller than the chimpanzee Ihad killed; but its great distinction was its bald head. Thisis its mark. This specimen was 3 feet 11 inches high or long.It was an adult. Its skin, where there is no hair, is black, inits natural state. The throat, breast, and abdomen are coveredwith short and rather thin blackish hair. On the lower part ofthe abdomen the hair is thinnest; but this is not perceivedunless looked at carefully, as the skin is the colour of the hair.On the legs the hair is of a dirty gray mixed with black.The shoulders and back have black hair between two andthree inches long, mixed with a little gray. The arms, down tothe wrist, have also long black hair, but shorter than in thegorilla. The hair is much thinner, in general, than on thegorilla, and the skin is not so tough. I noticed that the bareplaces, where the hair is worn off by contact with hard substancesin sleeping, were different from the bare places which are soconspicuous on the chimpanzee.There is a yet greater difference between this animal and thegorilla. It is not nearly so powerful as that monster. Its chestis of far less capacity; its muscular development is not on thesame prodigious scale; its arm is a little longer; and thefingers of the gorilla are not only shorter, but also much morepowerful than those of the nshiego mbouvé. There is also asimilar difference in the fingers of the feet. The largest nshiegoI shot measured a few inches over four feet in height, and itsspread of arms was almost seven feet.The hair of the nshiego is blacker, longer, and glossier thanthat of the gorilla. The latter has his head covered with hair,while the former is bald, both male and female. The nose ofthe nshiego is not so prominent as the gorilla's; the mouth iswider; the ears are much larger; the chin is rounder than thatof the gorilla, and has some thin, short hairs on it. Theposteriors of the nshiego are bare, and there the skin is white.The eyebrows of the nshiego are of thin black hair, but long.The side of the face is thinly covered with hair, commencingabout the middle of the ear.I sent my prize into the olako, and on our way back we hadthe good luck to kill another. This was a very old animal,234 NATIVE CANOES AND HARPOONS. CHAP. XIV.with venerable aspect, silvery hair, and decayed teeth. Itmeasured 4 feet 4 inches. Its weight was so considerable that,to carry it, we had to take out its intestines. I found in thestomach only some leaves. On my return to the olako I stuffedmy two prizes, ready to send home.On the 9th we had a great crocodile-hunt. The people werevery glad, as they seem extravagantly fond of the meat. Theykill more or less every day at this village, and so at the others;but the negroes are so lazy that they were glad to let me goand save them the trouble. The crocodile has not much meaton him, so that, though some were killed every day, the villagewas never sufficiently supplied.We went in canoes. These canoes are of a very singularconstruction; quite flat-bottomed, very light draught, aboutfifty feet long, and not more than two broad. They are ticklishcraft. The oarsmen stand up and use paddles seven feet long,with which they can propel one of these boats at a very goodrate. The canoes are, of course, easily capsized-the gunwalebeing but a few inches above the water; but they do not oftentip over. What surprised me most was the way the negropaddlers stood up at their work all day without tiring.The negroes hunt the crocodile both with guns and a kindof harpoon. They have very poor guns, and powder is a scarcearticle with them; so the harpoon is most used. The vulnerablepart of the animal is near the joints of his forelegs, and therethey endeavour to wound it. Though so many are killed, theydo not decrease in numbers, nor, strange enough, do they seemto grow more wary. As we started out we saw them swimmingabout in all directions, and lying on the mudbanks sunningthemselves. They took no notice of our boat at all. As wewere to shoot, we were obliged to look for our prizes on theshore, for, if killed in the water, they sink and are lost. Presently we saw an immense fellow extended on the bank amongsome reeds. We approached cautiously; I took good aim, andknocked him over. He struggled hard to get to the water, buthad been hit too surely. His strength gave out ere he couldreach it, and, with a few final kicks he was dead. We gotone more, and then they brought another canoe, and, capsizing it along the shore, rolled the dead monsters in andpaddled off for the village. One measured eighteen and theCROCODILE -HUNTING ONLAKE AENGUE .

CHAP. XIV. HABITS OF THE OGATA. 235other twenty feet in length. I never saw more savage-lookingjaws. They were armed with most formidable rows of teeth, andlooked really as though a man would be a mere bite for them.During the heat of the day these animals retire to the reeds,where they lie sheltered. In the morning and late afternoonthey come forth to seek their prey. They swim with greatsilence, making scarce even a ripple on the water, and makepretty good progress through the water. The motion of thepaws in swimming is like that of a dog, over and over. Theycan stand quite still on top of the water, when they may be seenlooking about them with their dull, wicked eyes. They sleepin the reeds, not for long in the same place. Their eggs theylay in the sand on the islands in the lake, covering them overwith a layer of sand. The great abundance of fish in the lakemakes them increase so fast as they do. The negroes seemedrather indifferent to their presence, and certainly did not viewthem with the loathing and horror they inspired in me.On the 11th I went on a hunt, but killed only a nkago-abeautiful little monkey, whose head is crowned with a fillet ofbright red hair. They are in great numbers in these woods.Coming home, I found near the water the hole or burrow ofan ogata. This is a species of alligator which lives near pools,and makes a long hole in the ground with two entrances, inwhich it sleeps and watches for prey. The ogata is a nightroving animal, and solitary in its habits. It scrapes this holewith its paws with considerable labour. It lives near a pool, forthe double reason, I imagine, that it may bathe, and becausethither come bock, for which it lies in wait in its hole. Thenegroes tell me that the ogata rushes out with great speed uponany wandering animal, and drags it into the hole to eat it. Whenthey discover one of these holes they come with their gunswhich are generally loaded with iron spikes-and watch at oneend, while a fire is built at the other entrance. When it becomestoo hot, the ogata rushes out and is shot. I killed one, whichproved to be seven feet long. It had great strength in its jaws,and very formidable teeth. Like the crocodile, its upper jaw isarticulated, and seems to rise when the mouth is opened.On the 13th I bought a few sticks of ebony, and one of themen brought me a piece of izomba-meat. The izomba is aturtle. The meat is excellent; and when I inquired about the236 CROCODILE AND DEER. CHAP. XIV.animal, I found reason to believe it a new species. The bestway to take it is to watch for it on some of the islands in thelake, whither it goes to lay its eggs by night. I went out in aboat the same night, and we were so lucky as to turn one greatturtle just as she was done laying. She had noticed us, silentas our approach was, and had nearly escaped. I found to myjoy next morning that it was really a new species.On the 14th I gave Shimbouvenegani two pieces of cottoncloth, some tobacco, and beads, and returned to Damagondai'stown. Here I found a canoe from King Ranpano, who hadsent to inform me that a vessel was on the coast by which Icould send things to America if I wished. I determined to godown immediately and send some specimens off.On our return to Damagondai's town, as we were paddlingalong, I perceived in the distance ahead a beautiful gazelle,looking meditatively into the waters of the lagoon, of whichfrom time to time it took a drink. I stood up to get a shot,and we approached with the utmost silence. But, just as Iraised my gun to fire, a crocodile leaped out of the water, and,like a flash, dived back again with the struggling animal in hispowerful jaws. So quickly did the beast take his prey that,though I fired at him, I was too late. I do not think my bullethit him. If it did, it struck some impenetrable part of his mail.I would not have believed that this huge and unwieldy animalcould move with such velocity; but the natives told me thatthe deer often falls prey to the crocodile. Sometimes he evencatches the leopard, but then there is a harder battle than thepoor little deer could make.In the afternoon news came that Oshoria, the king of a townsituated at the junction of the Anengue and Ogobay rivers,intended to stop me on my way down and exact tribute for mypassage. Poor King Damagondai was much troubled. Hesent his brother down with a present of a plate, a mug, and abrass pan to propitiate him. I was very angry, and determinedto put down Mr. Oshoria. We cleaned our guns, and I prepared my revolver; and next morning we set out withoutwaiting for the king's brother's return, greatly to the dismay ofthese peaceable people.When we came in sight of Guaibuiri, Oshoria's town, I sawthat some of my fellows began to show the white feather. ICHAP. XIV. THE TRIBE OF THE LAKE. 237therefore told them I would blow out the brains of the first manwho failed to fight to the death, at the same time pointing tomy revolver as the intended instrument of death. They havea great respect for this wonderful revolver; and immediatelyanswered me, "We are men."So we pulled up to the town. On the shore stood about onehundred and fifty fellows armed with spears and axes, led byten men who had guns. I went immediately up to them,.revolver in one hand and double-barrelled gun in the other.At this piece of bravado they became very civil, and instead offiring at my party received us peaceably.Damagondai's brother hurried down to meet me, and announcedthat there was no palaver. I was then led to where the quarrelsome Oshoria stood, whom I reproached for his conduct, tellinghim that if anybody had been killed the palaver would havebeen on his head. He said he had been vexed that I did notstop to see him on my way up; and after making furtherexcuses, added, " Aoué olomé; " which means, " Thou art aman; " an expression used in several ways, either to designatea smart man, or a rascal, or, in the best sense, a very braveman. I was content to accept it as an intended compliment.I was presented with fruits and fowls, and we were presentlythe best of friends; and when I brought down a little bird whichsat on a very high tree, they all declared I must have a very bigshooting-fetich, and respected me accordingly; and to show themI was not afraid of them I spent the night at their village.Leaving this place, we got back to Biagano without farthertrouble.The people of the Ogobay and the Anengue are of the sametribe with the seashore Camma. They intermarry; their customs and superstitions are the same; their palavers are the same;and, though they are more peaceable, they have the will to bejust as great rascals. The country behind the river- swamps isvery rich in all manner of tropical products. The ebony is foundin the hills; but to transport heavy substances twenty miles tothe river or lake-shore, in a country where there are no roads, istoo much trouble for these lazy fellows -for which reason verylittle is cut. The copal-tree is also found, as well as the Indiarubber vine. They raise sugarcane in great quantities, yams,ground-nuts, plantains, manioc, and sweet potatoes. The chief238 BUYING AN IDOL. CHAP. XIV.commercial produce of the country at present is ivory, of whicha small quantity is brought down everyyear.In their religious notions they do notdiffer from their neighbours, the FernandVaz Camma, or indeed from the natives ofthis region generally. In Damagondai's townI was so fortunate as to become possessed ofone of their idols or mbuitis. It is a mistaketo suppose that these natives worship theirgreegrees and fetiches. Wherever I havebeen I have found the head-man or chiefof each family in possession of an idol,which was worshipped by that family. Thiswhole matter is kept so secret that, unlessthe traveller pays particular attention, hemay live in a village for weeks, and notknow of this idol's existence. And for thisreason some have asserted that they haveno idols.The family of King Glass, in Gaboon, hasan idol which is several generations old, Iam certain. So in Cape Lopez the reigningfamily has an ancient idol. Mention hasbeen made before this of others. Damagondai's idol was a female figure, with coppereyes, and a tongue made of a sharp swordshaped piece of iron. This explained herchief attributes: she cuts to pieces thosewith whom she is displeased. She was dressedin a Shekiani cloth, covering her from theneck down. She is said to speak, to walk,to foretell events, and to take vengeance onher enemies. Her house is the most prominent one in the whole village. She comesto the people by night, and tells them intheir sleep what is going to happen. In thisway, they asserted, my coming had been foretold. They worship her by dancing aroundher, and singing her praises and their requests. Sometimes aIdol.CHAP. XIV. BOLA IVOGA. 239single man or woman comes to prefer a request; and once Isaw the whole village engaged in this rite. They offer hersugarcane and other food, which they believe she eats.I tried to buy this goddess, but, ugly as she was, Damagondaisaid no money would purchase her. But he insinuated that fora proper price I could have the goddess of the slaves. Thesepoor fellows were absent on the plantations, and after councilwith his chief men, the king determined to tell them that he hadseen their mbuiti walk off into the woods. I packed her up andtook her off with me, and opposite is her portrait.From August 18th to the 31st I was badly sick with dysenteryand symptoms of malignant fever, contracted, probably, in theAnengue marshes. In three days I took one hundred and fiftygrains of quinine, and thus happily succeeded in breaking the forceof the fever, which was the most dangerous of the two diseases.By September 9th I was pretty strong again, and the peoplecame to ask me if I was willing for them to bola ivoga, that is, tomake a terrible noise with their ceremonious breaking of themourning-time. I gave my consent, and next day great numbers of canoes came down to help in this ceremony. When anyone of importance dies, the tribe or town cease to wear theirbest clothes, and make it a point to go unusually dirty. This isto mourn. Mourning lasts from a year to two years. As for thebreaking up of mourning, this shall now be described.The man who had died left seven wives, several slaves, ahouse, a plantation, and other property. All this the elderbrother inherits, and on him it devolves to give the grand feast.For this feast every canoe that came brought jars of mimbo orpalm-wine. Sholomba and Jombuai, the heir, had been out fortwo weeks fishing, and now returned with several canoe-loads ofdry fish. From their plantations quantities of palm-wine werebrought in. Everyone in the village furbished up his bestclothes and ornaments. Drums and kettles were collected;powder was brought out for the salutes; and at last all wasready for bola ivoga.The wives of the deceased seemed quite jolly, for to-morrowthey were to lay aside their widows' robes and to join in thejollification as brides. The heir could have married them all,but he had generously given up two to a younger brother andone to a cousin.240 PHYSIC AMONG THE CAMMA. CHAP. XIV.At seven o'clock in the morning three guns were fired off toannounce that the widows had done eating a certain mess, mixedof various ingredients supposed to have magical virtues, and bywhich they are released from their widowhood . They now puton bracelets and anklets, and the finest calico they had. Aboutnine all the guests sat down on mats spread about the house ofdeceased and along the main street. They were divided intolittle groups, and before each was set an immense jar of mimbo.All began to talk pleasantly, till suddenly the Biagano peoplefired off a volley of about one hundred guns. This was thesignal for the drinking to begin. Men, women, and children setto; and from this time till next morning the orgies were continued without interruption. They drank, they sang, they firedguns, and loaded them so heavily as they got tipsy, that I wonderthe old trade-guns did not burst; they drummed on everythingthat could possibly give out a noise; they shouted; and thewomen danced-such dances as are not seen elsewhere. Theyare indecent in their best moments. The reader may imaginewhat they were when every woman was furiously tipsy, andthought it a point of honour to be more indecent than herneighbour.Next day, about sunrise, Jombuai came to ask me to assist atthe concluding ceremony. His brother's house was to be torndown and burned. When I came they fired guns, and then,in a moment, hacked the old house to pieces with axes and cutlasses. When the ruins were burned the feast was donę. Andthis is to go out of mourning among the Camma.Hardly were the rejoicings done, when Ishungui, the man whohad faithfully taken care of my house in my absence, lay atdeath's door. He had gone out on Jombuai's fishing-excursion,caught cold, and had now a lung fever. I knew when I saw himthat he must die, and tried to prepare his mind for the change.But his friends by no means gave him up. They sent for adistinguished fetich-doctor, and under his auspices began theinfernal din with which they seek to cure a sick man.The Camma theory of disease is that Obambou (the devil) hasgot into the sick man. Now this devil is only to be driven outwith noise, and accordingly they surround the sick man and beatdrums and kettles close to his head; fire off guns close to hisears; sing, shout, and dance all they can. This lasts till the

.SORCERER AEXORCISING OUGANGACHAP. XIV. HOW TO DISCOVER A WITCH. 241poor fellow either dies or is better-unless the operators becometired out first, for the Camma doctors either kill or cure.Ishungui died. He left no property, and his brother buriedhim without a coffin in a grave in the sand, so shallow that, whenI chanced to come upon it some days after, I saw that the wildbeasts had been there and eaten the corpse. The mourninglasted but six days; and, as there were no wives or property, sothere was no feast. The relatives of the deceased slept one nightin his house, as a mark of respect; and then all that remainedwas to discover the person who had bewitched the dead man.For that a young man, generally healthy, should die so suddenlyin course of nature was by no means to be believed.A canoe had been dispatched up to the lake to bring down agreat doctor. They brought one of Damagondai's sons, a greatrascal, who had been foremost in selling me the idol, and who wasan evident cheat. When all was ready for the trial, I went downto look at the doctor, who looked literally like the devil. I neversaw a more ghastly object. He had on a high head-dress ofblack feathers. His eyelids were painted red, and a red stripe,from the nose upward, divided his forehead in two parts. Anotherred stripe passed round his head. The face was painted white,and on each side of the mouth were two round red spots. Abouthis neck hung a necklace of grass and also a cord, which helda box against his breast. This little box is sacred, and containsspirits. A number of strips of leopard and other skins crossedhis breast, and were exposed about his person; and all thesewere charmed, and had charms attached to them. From eachshoulder down to his hands was a white stripe, and one handwas painted quite white. To complete this horrible array, hewore a string of little bells around his body.He sat on a box or stool, before which stood another box containing charms. On this stood a looking-glass, beside which laya buffalo-horn containing some black powder, and said, in addition, to be the refuge of many spirits. He had a little basket ofsnake-bones, which he shook frequently during his incantations;as also several skins, to which little bells were attached. Nearby stood a fellow beating a board with two sticks. All thepeople of the village gathered about this couple, who, after continuing their incantations for a while, at last came to the climax.Jombuai was told to call over the names of persons in theR242 I AM MADE A CHIEF. CHAP. XIV.village, in order that the doctor might ascertain if any one ofthose named did the sorcery. As each named was called theold cheat looked in the glass to see the result.During the whole operation I stood near him, which seemed totrouble him greatly. At last, after all the names were called,the doctor declared that he could not find any " witch-man, "but that an evil spirit dwelt in the village, and many of thepeople would die if they continued there. I have a suspicionthat this final judgment with which the incantations broke upwas a piece of revenge upon me. I had no idea till next dayhow seriously the words of one of these (ouganga) doctors istaken.The next morning all was excitement. The people werescared: they said their mbuiri was not willing to have them livelonger here; that he would kill them, &c. Then began theremoval of all kinds of property and the tearing down of houses;and by nightfall I was actually left alone in my house with myMpongwe boy and my little Ogobay boy, Makondai, both ofwhom were anxious to be off.Old Ranpano came to beg me not to be offended; that hedared not stay, but would build his house not too far away; thatthe mbuiri was now in town: he advised me as a friend to movealso; but nobody wished me ill-only he must go, &c.66I did not like to abandon my houses, which had cost me moneyand trouble, and where I was more comfortably fixed than I hadever before been in Africa. So I called a meeting of the people,and tried to induce some of them to come over and live with me.Now, though they loved tobacco, though they worshipped trade,though they had every possible inducement to come and livenear me, their white man, " as they called me, it was only withthe greatest difficulty I could get some men who had alreadyworked for me to come over and stay in my place. These beganimmediately to build themselves houses, and by October 8th thelittle village was built, of which I was now, to my great surprise,offered the sovereignty. I remembered howthe new king wasmade in the Gaboon; and though it seemed romantic to be thechief of a negro town in Africa, the thought of the contumelywhich precedes the assumption of royalty deterred me. Finallythe men determined to have me as the chief next to Ranpano,and with this my ambition was satisfied,CHAP. XIV. GORILLA-HUNTS. 243On the 1st of November I went in a canoe, with guns andprovisions, up to Irende, a town about forty miles up theFernand Vaz. Hereabouts there was likelihood of some goodhunts; so I had been told. In fact we killed a number of wildred pigs, and some beautiful, but very shy red gazelles. It is acurious circ*mstance-which I think I ascertained to be a factthat on this part of the Fernand Vaz the gorilla lives only nearthe left bank, and the chimpanzee only near the right bank ofthe stream, until one reaches the Rembo River.On the 9th I started for the town of my old friend Makaga,where I was heartily received. We went out on a gorilla-hunton the 10th, but took too many men, and probably made toomuch noise; for we saw none, and returned next day with ourtrouble for our pains. On the 13th I went out with only onehunter, and he took me to a part of the country full of the wildpineapple. The gorilla is very fond of the leaves of this plant,of which it eats the white stems. We saw great quantities thuseaten away, therefore we hoped to find here the beasts themselves.About noon, Mbele, my hunter, was some distance ahead, whensuddenly I heard his gun fired. I ran up, and found he had shotand killed a female gorilla about half-grown.Coming back we heard the cry of the gorillas off at one sideof our path. We approached, but were discerned, and came uponly to see four young animals making off on their all-fours intothe woods. I noticed that in their trot their hindlegs seemed toplay in between their arms; but they made very good speed.IBefore we got to town again I shot a mboyo, a very shy animal,of the wolf kind, with long yellowish hair and straight ears.have often watched these beasts surrounding and chasing smallgame for themselves. The drove runs very well together; andas their policy is to run round and round, they soon bewilder,tire out, and capture any animal of moderate endurance.I found this a great gorilla country; the animals even approached the town early in the morning, and I found that I neednot make long journeys in order to reach the hunting-ground.But they are very difficult of approach; the slightest noisealarms them and sends them off. It is only once in a way thatyou can surprise an old male, and then he will fight you.On the 25th I got a second young gorilla. This time I wasR 2244 TOUCHING SCENE. CHAP. XIV.accessory to its capture. We were walking along in silence,when I heard a cry, and presently saw before me a female gorilla,with a tiny baby-gorilla hanging to her breast and sucking. Themother was stroking the little one, and looking fondly down atit; and the scene was so pretty and touching that I held myfire, and considered-like a soft-hearted fellow-whether I hadnot better leave them in peace. Before I could make up mymind, however, my hunter fired and killed the mother, who fellwithout a struggle.The mother fell, but the baby clung to her, and, with pitifulcries, endeavoured to attract her attention. I came up, andwhen it saw me it hid its poor little head in its mother's breast.It could neither walk nor bite, so we could easily manage it; andI carried it, while the men bore the mother on a pole. Whenwe got to the village another scene ensued. The men put thebody down, and I set the little fellow near. As soon as he sawhis mother he crawled to her and threw himself on her breast.He did not find his accustomed nourishment, and I saw thathe perceived something was the matter with the old one. Hecrawled over her body, smelt at it, and gave utterance, fromtime to time, to a plaintive cry, " Hoo, hoo, hoo," which touchedmy heart.I could get no milk for this poor little fellow, who could noteat, and consequently died on the third day after he was caught.He seemed more docile than the other I had, for he alreadyrecognized my voice, and would try to hurry towards me whenhe saw me. I put the little body in alcohol, and sent it to Dr.Wyman, of Boston, for dissection.The mother we skinned; and, when I came to examine her,I found her a very singular specimen. Her head was muchsmaller than that of any other gorilla I ever saw, and the rumpwas of a reddish-brown colour. These are peculiarities whichmade this specimen different from all others I have seen.called her, therefore, the gorilla with the red rump.IOn the 29th and 30th of November I took my last hunts nearMakaga's place. I found gorilla growing scarce. I had huntedthem too perseveringly; so I determined to return to Biaganoto make ready for my trip up the Rembo.I found all safe, and at once prepared for my next trip. This,however, was out off by one of those accidents which happenCHAP. XIV. POISONED BY MY COOK. 245in these barbarous countries once in a while. On the 5th ofDecember I was poisoned by my cook. He was a Sangatangafellow, who had been sent to me from the Gaboon because Icould not stand the cooking of my Biagano friends. He hadserved in the Cape Lopez slave-factories, and had there learnedtreachery and thieving. For a time he behaved well; but byand-by I began to miss things, and made sure, after watchingthe Camma fellows pretty closely, that the thief could be nobodybut my cook.On this day I was preparing a tiger's skin which Igala, myhunter, had killed the night before, and had to send cook forsomething in my storehouse. He came back without the key,which he said was lost. I told him if he did not get it beforenight I would punish him.I had Sholomba, a native prince, to dine with me, and we hadfowls, chicken-soup, and a goat for dinner. It happened thatSholomba's family hold chickens in abhorrence as food, believing that one of their ancestors had been cured of a deadlydisease by the blood of a fowl; therefore he ate of the goat. Itook two plates of chicken-broth, and had scarce finished thelast when I was seized with frightful pains and vomiting, anddiarrhoea set in, and lasted all night. I never suffered suchfrightful torments.When I was first taken sick I called Boulay, the cook, whosaid he had put nothing in the soup; but, when charged withpoisoning, turned and fled into the woods. The next afternoon,when I was somewhat easier, my people brought the wretch in.He had fled down river, but had been caught. Ranpano and allwere very angry, and demanded the life of him who had tried tokill their white man. It was proved that he had gone into mystorehouse with the key he said was lost; and, after some prevarication, he admitted that he had taken two tablespoonfulsof the arsenic I always had at hand there, and put it in mysoup. I owe my life to his over-dose; consequently to a kindProvidence.Ranpano kept Boulay in chains till I was well enough to sitin judgment over him. Then it was determined that he shouldsuffer death; but I interfered, and desired that he should be letoff with one hundred and ten lashes with a whip of hippopotamushide. Eleven of the stoutest freemen of the town were chosen to246 SINGULAR EFFECT OF ARSENIC. CHAP. XIV.administer the punishment, and when it was over Boulay wasagain put in chains.Bad news travels even in this country, where there are neithermails nor post-roads. Boulay had brothers in Cape Lopez, whoin some way heard of his rascality. They were troubled at thisdisgrace to their family, and appeared before me one day withfour slaves in their train. They thanked me for not killingtheir brother, which, they said, I had a right to do. They said," Boulay has conducted himself as a slave in trying to poisonhis master." Then they begged me to give him to them and tospare his life, and handed over to me the four slaves they hadbrought as an equivalent.The brothers were old, venerable, and honest-looking men.They evidently grieved deeply for the crime of their kinsman.I told them that in my country we did not " make palaver formoney;" that I might have killed their brother, according to theirown laws. Then I called Boulay, and told him how meanly hehad treated me; then, taking off his chains myself, I handedhim over to his brothers, with the four slaves they had given me.They thanked me again and again. Ranpano forbade Boulayever to return, and so they went back to Cape Lopez.I found myself, after some weeks, not only entirely recoveredfrom the effects of the arsenic, but also cured of a fever whichhad long beset me. I have mentioned, in another place, that,where quinine has ceased to affect the traveller in Africa, solutions of arsenic are sometimes administered, and with good effect,in fever cases.CHAP. XV. QUENGUEZA SENDS A HOSTAGE. 247-CHAPTER XV.Message and Hostage from Quengueza Outfit - Makondai Fame ofMr. Colt- Goombi Reception Family Arrangements in AfricaIntermarriage Driving out a Witch Riches among the CammaAfrican Shams - A Sunday Lecture - Gorillas shot - The Poison Ordeal-Mbondo - Effects of the Poison - Native Gorilla Stories- CharmsYoung Female Gorilla caught - Superstitious Belief Trouble in theRoyal Family A Holy Place — Obindji's Town — A Royal Introduction - Houses Decency in Obindji's Town- Surprise of the Negroes at myAppearance · Ordeal of the Ring boiled in Oil — Bashikouay —KoulooGouamba, or Hunger for Meat Grace-I am counted a-―kamba - Another new Apebefore MeatMagician.----A Day's Work in Africa -- Checks-TOWARDS the close of January, 1858, when I was thinking ofKing Quengueza and of my approaching visit to him, the oldfellow sent down his eldest son to me with a lot of ebony, andhis youngest son, a boy of ten, who was to be left with me.Quengueza sent word that I must come soon; that I should havehis escort to go to the far interior, and that he was ready to cutebony for me. Meantime, lest I should be afraid to trust myselfin his hands, he sent his young son, who was to remain inRanpano's hands as hostage for my safety. " You see," he sentword, "I am not afraid of you. You may trust me. "This message determined me to get ready at once for my trip.I packed my goods and put my house in order, and at last calledtogether the people of Biagano for a serious talk. I knew theywere opposed to my taking trade-goods to the interior, but Icould not go without. I therefore told them that I not only nowwas, but intended to remain their white man; that I took goodsonly to pay my way, and that my explorations would help theirtrade, while I only wanted to hunt. At the same time I toldthem, if they did not help me with canoes I should leave themand never come back. They were glad to let me go where Iwished, and to help me as far as I needed help.Next day I had a more formal ceremony still. In my housesremained about two thousand dollars' worth of ebony and goods,together with ivory, all my specimens not sent to America, and248 A TRADER'S OUTFIT. CHAP. XV.various other things of value. These were to remain, and I hadto trust to the honour of a parcel of black fellows for their safety .Accordingly I took Ranpano and some of his head-men allover the premises, showed them everything I had which was toremain; then said, " Give me a man to keep all safe, that I, whoam your white man, may lose nothing. "They gave me at once old Rinkimongami, the king's brother,to whom I promised good pay if my things were kept safe.Then I distributed tobacco to all the people; and next morning (February 26th) we set off for Goombi, Quengueza's place.I had to take my big boat, because no canoe would hold allthe goods, powder and shot, guns and provisions I required. Ihad 26 guns, 150 pounds of lead, 200 pounds of coarse tradepowder, 30 pounds of fine powder for myself, about 10,000 yardsof cotton cloth, 400 pounds of beads, and quantities of iron andbrass pots, kettles, and pans; caps, coats, shirts, looking-glasses,fire-steels, flints, knives, plates, glasses, spoons, hats, &c. , &c.This is an African explorer's outfit. For this I hoped to get notonly friendly treatment, but ebony, ivory, and wax, and perhapsIndia-rubber. But all that was only by the way. Gorillas weremy chief object, and the exploration of the far interior. Quengueza had promised me safe conduct to points very far backtowards the unknown centre of the continent; and as I was thefirst white man to venture up in this direction, so I was anxiousto get as far as possible.Wee were fifteen in all in my boat. Another canoe, with otherfifteen men, followed us. In my own boat, Jombuai, a fellowfrom my own town, and who had married some wives up theRembo, was the head man; Quengueza's little boy was of ourparty, and also the brave little Makondai, whom I had at firstdetermined to leave behind, as being too small to stand thefatigues of such a journey. The little fellow entreated so to betaken with us that I at last consented. He behaved like a trump,and I had no occasion to regret my confidence in him.We started on the morning of February 26th, 1858. Whenwe had got a few miles up river the slaves of Jombuai camedown to bid him good-bye, and brought him a large quantity ofplantains a welcome accession to our provision - store. A fewmiles up and we were clear of the mangroves, and the riverbegan to widen, and its shores became beautiful. Fine palmsCHAP. XV. VILLAGE OF "CHARLEY." 249lined the banks, and seemed even to guard them from the encroachments of the full river, which ran along quite level withits banks.We pulled nearly all night, and by noon of the next dayreached Monwé Island, thirty-five miles from the mouth of theriver, but only about ten miles from the sea, as the reader willsee by the map. Here we took a rest, the heat being excessive.A little above Monwé the Fernand Vaz becomes much narrower. It then takes an easterly direction; and from this pointupward it is known to the natives as Rembo, which means "TheRiver." At Quayombi several small islands divide the rivertemporarily into different channels, without, however, seriouslyobstructing the navigation.The land which divides the river into three here we found tobe mere mud-banks, half overflowed and covered with reeds.When we got into the main stream I found it suddenly narrower, but a full rushing tide, two hundred yards wide, and fromfour to five fathoms in depth all along, with no shallows or otherimpediments to navigation.On the 28th we passed numerous towns, my men shouting,singing, and firing guns at every inhabited place, and the peoplegazing at us from shore in great wonder. In the afternoon Iwent ashore at the village of " Charley," a quarrelsome fellow,who had become known to white traders some years before byseizing and imprisoning a whole canoe-load of negroes who hadbeen sent up on a trading expedition. He put them into a veryuncomfortable kind of stocks called ntchogo, which consists of aheavy billet of wood in which the feet are stuck, and a lighterbillet into which the hands are secured. Thus the man is helpless both against men and against musquitoes and flies; andhere the poor fellows were kept till the trader, who was waitingin a ship, sent up a ransom for them.The two chiefs treated me very well, and said they felt friendlytowards me, as indeed they showed by killing in my honour thefatted calf (it was a goat) , and sending besides some chickensand plantains. They were much alarmed at the charmed pistol(one of Colt's revolvers), which I fired off to show them howmany of them I could kill without stopping; and I owe mysafety, in fact, to Mr. Colt, whose wares have a great reputationwherever I have been in Africa.250 RECEPTION AT GOUMBI. CHAP. XV.We slept all day, and towards sunset set out up river again.I made the men pull all night, giving them tobacco to keepthem awake. They smoked, sang their most exciting songs,and, whenever we passed a town, fired off guns; being determined, so they said, to let all the country know that their whiteman was ascending the Rembo.About one o'clock the next day (the 29th) we came to Goumbi,the residence of King Quengueza. Here we were received in amost triumphant manner. I could not make myself heard forshouts and the firing of guns. The whole population of Goumbicrowded down to the shore to see me; and I was led up in procession to an immense covered space, capable of holding at leastthousand people, and surrounded by seats. These were quicklyfilled up by the people, among whom I presently found therewere strangers from various parts of the interior, drawn thitherby the news that I was coming up to Goumbi, and now gazingat me, and especially at my hair, with the greatest wonder intheir countenances.A large high seat was appointed for me, and another close toit was for Quengueza, who presently arrived, and, with a facebeaming with joy, shook hands with me.He is an old, white-woolled negro, very tall, spare, and of asevere countenance, betokening great energy and courage, whichhe has, and for which he is celebrated all over this country. Heis a very remarkable man, for his opportunities; and has morenatural intelligence than any other negro I met in Africa. Hemade haste to explain to me that, as he was in mourning for hisbrother, who had died two years ago, he could not dress finely.He had on a finely-knit black cap, and a cloth of black also,both of Ashira make, and really beautiful; no shirt-whicharticle is not allowed to mourners-and an American coat toosmall for him."YouWhen he had done welcoming me, I called his little son,Akoonga, whom he had sent me as a hostage, and who hadbeen brought up in my canoe. When he came forward, I saidto the king, in a loud voice, that the people might hear,sent your son to me to keep, so that I might feel safe to come toyou. I am not afraid. I like you, and can trust you. I believe youwill treat me and my men rightly; and therefore I have broughtyour little son back to you. I do not want him for safety."GOUMBI .RECEPTION AT1CHAP. XV. QUENGUEZA'S ADDRESS. 251At this there was tremendous shouting, and all the peopleseemed overjoyed.Then I reminded the king of his promise to let me go intothe interior, and to help me. The king and the people shoutedapproval. Then I said I had come to benefit them. I hadbrought goods, and would buy their ebony and ivory, as much as they would get. At this announcement the shouts andrejoicings grew boundless and obstreperous. I had touched-asI expected their most sensitive nerve.The king then rose to reply. There was immediately a deadsilence for Quengueza is honoured by his people. He firstgave me a large house, which he pointed out to me.It had averanda with seats in front. Then he turned to the people,and said:-"This is my ntangani (white man) . He has come from a farcountry to see me. I went down to beg him to come up to me.Now he has come. Let no one do any harm to his people.For him, I need not speak. Give food to his people. Treatthem well. Do not steal anything. A big palaver would comeon you. "Then he addressed himself to the Ashira and Bakalai, whowere present, saying, " Beware! Do not steal my white man,for, if you should make the attempt, I would sell you all.”This closed the ceremonies. I was permitted to go to myhouse; and the people were ordered to go down and unload myboat, and bring my things up to the house.Goumbi is ninety-five miles from the mouth of the river. Itis the last town of the Camma; and is important because itcommands the whole of the upper river, so far as the nativesare concerned, by an hereditary right. The Abouya family,who reside in Goumbi, and of whom Quengueza is the chief,claim, and are allowed to have, the sole right of trading upriver. Sometimes they allow a few down-river Camma who havewives in Goumbi to go up and cut ebony; but even this privilege is sparingly granted, and for all intents and purposesQuengueza has a monopoly of all the commerce with the richcountry beyond, and really considers the people who live abovehim as his vassals.It is very singular that among all these people descent andinheritance are taken from the mother. The son of a Camma252 QUENGUEZA'S SUPERSTITIONS. CHAP. XV.man by a woman of another tribe or nation is not counted aCamma; and, to narrow it down to families, to be a true Abouya(citizen of Goumbi), it is necessary to be born of an Abouyamother. If only the father were Abouya, the children would beconsidered half-breeds.Up to Goumbi there is safe navigation for little steamers inalmost every month of the year, and with light-draught steamersat any time. The river is deep and narrow, and the banks steepall the way up. About fifteen miles above Quayombi the currentbecomes stronger. Here the hills come down to the river,receding, however, above. The country seemed fertile and productive; and the number of villages we passed on our wayargues well for its fertility.On the 1st of March I received a visit from one Igoumba, achief of the Ashiras, an interior people. He had fled from hishome because he had been accused of practising sorcery. Alsoseveral Bakalai chiefs came to see me, and asked me to visittheir country.Quengueza was all this time perfectly happy. He danced, andsang, and made jokes, and altogether was as jolly as though allhis wishes and desires had been gratified at once. He gave meback his little boy, Akoonga, to stay with me; and, as Makondaiis already my steward, the young prince has been appointed towash my dishes. I gave Quengueza his present of fifty yards ofcloth, a gun, a neptune, and some beads, &c. He was greatlypleased, and promised again that I should go into the interioras far as he had authority and influence. He is an unusuallysensible negro, and sees how my explorations may be of greatbenefit to him so long as he holds the key of the country.Nevertheless, he is curiously superstitious. For a year he hadnot passed down a street which leads most directly to the water,but had always gone a roundabout way. This was because whenhe came to the throne this street was pronounced to be bewitchedby an enemy of his; and he was persuaded that if he passed byit he would surely die. Several times efforts had been made bydistinguished doctors to drive away the witch which there lay inwait; but the king, though he believed in sorcery, had notmuch faith in the exorcisers or doctors.A last attempt to drive off the aniemba or witch was madeon the night of March 2nd-3rd. A famous doctor from theCHAP. XV. EXORCISING A WITCH. 253far-off Bakalai country had been brought down to perform thisact. His name was Aquailai. The people gathered in greatnumbers under the immense hangar or covered space in whichI had been received, and there lit fires, around which they sat.The space thus covered was one hundred and fifty feet long byforty wide, and roofed with bamboo and leaves. About teno'clock, when it was pitch-dark, the doctor commenced operations by singing some boasting songs, recounting his power overwitches. This was the signal for all the people to gather intotheir houses and about their fires under the hangar. So muchhaste did they make, that two women, failing to get home, andafraid to go farther through the streets, took refuge in my house.Next all the fires were carefully extinguished, all the lightsput out; and in about an hour more not a light of any kindwas in the whole town except mine. I gave notice that whitemen were exempted from the rules made in such cases, and thiswas allowed. The most pitchy darkness and the most completesilence reigned everywhere. No voice could be heard, even ina whisper, among the several thousand people gathered in thegloom.At last the curious , silence was broken by the doctor, who,standing in the centre of the town, began some loud babblingof which I could not make out the meaning. From time to timethe people answered him in chorus. This went on for an hour,and was really one of the strangest scenes I ever took part in. Icould see nothing but the faces of the two women in my house,who were badly frightened, poor things! as, in fact, all the peoplewere. The hollow voice of the witch- doctor resounded curiouslythrough the silence; and when the answer of many mingledvoices came through the darkness, it really assumed the air of aserious, old-fashioned incantation scene.At last, just at midnight, I heard the doctor approach. Hehad bells girded about him, which he jingled as he walked.He went separately to every family in the town, and asked ifthe witch which obstructed the king's highway belonged tothem. Of course all answered, No. Then he began to run upand down the bewitched street, calling out loudly for the witchto go off. Presently he came back and announced that hecould no longer see the aniemba, and that doubtless she hadgone never to come back. At this all the people rushed out254 WEALTH AT GOUMBI. CHAP. XV.and shouted, " Go away! go away! and never come back tohurt our king!"Then fires were lit, and we all sat down to eat. This done, allthe fires were once more extinguished, and all the people sangwild songs until four o'clock. Then the fires were again lit.At sunrise the whole population gathered to accompany theirking down the dreaded street to the water.Quengueza, I know, was brave as a hunter and as a warrior.He was also intelligent in many things where his people werevery stupid. But the poor old king was now horribly afraid.He was assured that the witch was gone; but he evidently thoughthimself walking to almost certain death. He would have refusedto go if it had been possible. He hesitated, but at last determined to face his fate, and walked manfully down to the riverand back amid the plaudits of his loyal subjects.By the 6th, matters began to be put in train for some huntingexpeditions. Food was scarce in town on account of the greatnumber of strangers present; but the king's thirty wives-hehas only this moderate number-bring food for me and my menevery day. Quengueza has given me Etia, his favourite hunterand slave, for a guide in the bush. This Etia is a fine-lookingold man, a native of the far interior, whence the king bought himmany years ago. He lives now on a little plantation outside oftown, where he has a neat house and a nice old wife, who alwaystreated me in a kind motherly way. Etia's business is to supplythe royal larder with " bush-meat; ", and he hunts almost everyweek for this purpose.Also, Quengueza gave me Mombon, his overseer, chamberlain,steward, man of business, factotum; the man whose place itwas to take care of the king's private affairs , set his slaves towork, oversee his plantations, and who had the care of the keysof the royal houses.Mombon was to see that I was made comfortable in town.A man's wealth is reckoned here, first by the number of slaveshe owns, next by the number of wives, and then by the numberof chests. Chests are used to secure goods in. Therefore chestshave come to be the synonym here for property of this kind, asbanks indicate money with us. Now chests, to be secure, musthave locks, and therefore locks of American make are in greatdemand all over this country. Native locks are not very secure.CHAP. XV. A HUNTING-PARTY. 255But as locks secure chests, so keys are worn in great numbers asthe outward symbol of ownership in locks, and chests, and property. And I found shams even in Goumbi, for several of myCamma friends had a great array of chests, most of which wereempty; and indeed it is the mode to collect as many boxes asyou can, no matter if you have nothing to put in them.Some you of their houses have locks also. But to have a lockmust have a door; and though this door is but a very narrow,shabby affair, a whole great tree must be whittled down withtheir rude axes to make the board which shall answer for adoor. Therefore doors are a luxury in Goumbi, as indeed alsoon the coast.On Sunday, the 7th, I rested, and had a talk with the people,trying to explain to them something about the one true God,and the absurdity of their superstitions. They have always oneanswer to everything a white man says against their customs,and this was brought forward this day, as usual. An old mansaid, " You are white, we are black. The God who made youdid not make us. You are one kind of people, we are another.You are mbuiri (spirits) , and do not need all the fetiches andidols that we have. We are poor people, and need them. Godgave you the good things, to us he has not given anything."It is difficult to meet this point of difference of race, which isasserted in all good faith by every honest negro you meet inAfrica. You cannot convince them that they and we are allmen and brethren. And till you do this, they remain strong intheir superstitions.On the 8th we started for a two days' hunt. Etia and Gambo,the latter a son of Igoumba, an Ashira chief, and a noted hunter,and a few others, with myself, made up the party. We set outfrom Etia's house, where the old fellow had skulls of elephants,hippopotami, leopards, and gorillas ranged around as trophiesof his prowess. Gambo was an ill-looking fellow, by reason ofbeing much pitted with the small- pox; but he had fiery eyes,good courage, and a kind heart, as I discovered.I was amused at a remark Quengueza made, as we startedfrom the town together. " See," said he, to some people, " howhunters love each other! No matter if they come from differentnations, and are different people. See how my white man lovesthese black hunters!"256 HUGE FEMALE GORILLA KILLED. CHAP. XV.We had been going through the woods about three hours,when at last we came upon fresh gorilla-tracks. Etia now setout by himself, while Gambo and I walked silently in anotherdirection. The gorilla is so difficult of approach that we hadliterally to creep through the thick woods when in their vicinity.The dead silence and the tediousness of the approach, togetherwith the fact that the hunter cannot expect to see his enemy tillhe is close upon him, while even then the gloom of the forestmakes him but dimly visible—all this makes the hunt of thisanimal most trying to the nerves. For it is in the hunter'smind that if he misses-if his bullet does not speed to the mostfatal point, the wounded and infuriated animal will make shortwork of his opponent.As we crept silently along, suddenly the woods resounded withthe report of a gun. We sped at once towards the quarterwhence the report came, and there found old Etia sitting complacently upon the dead body of the largest female gorilla Iever saw. He had hit her fatally with his first ball. The totalheight of the animal was 4 feet 7 inches; length of the hand,7½ inches; length of the foot from the hair comprising the heel,8 inches; round of hand above the thumb, 91 inches; ditto,under the thumb, 9 inches. Length of the fingers (hands):thumbs, 13 inches; first finger, 4 inches; second, 41 inches;third, 33 inches; fourth, 3 inches. Circumference of the fingers(hands): thumb, 2 inches; first finger, 3 inches; second,4 inches; third, 31 inches; fourth, 3 inches. Circumference ofthe toes thumb, 3 inches; first finger, 24 inches; second,24 inches; third, 2 inches; fourth, 12 inches.This was ahuge anmal for a female, for these are always much smallerthan the males.The next morning I heard a great commotion on the plantation, and learned that an old doctor, named Olanga- Condo, wasto drink the mboundou. This is an intoxicating poison, which isbelieved by these people to confer on the drinker—if it do notkill him-the power of divination. It is much used in all thispart of the country to try persons accused of witchcraft. A poorfellow is supposed to have bewitched his neighbour, or the king,and he is forced to drink mboundou to establish his innocence.If the man dies he is declared a witch. If he survives he isinnocent. This ordeal is much dreaded by the negroes, whoCHAP. XV. POISON ORDEAL.257often run away from home and stay away all their lives ratherthan submit to it. The doctors have the reputation of beingunharmed by the mboundou; and I am bound to admit thatOlanga drank it without serious consequences. Nevertheless, itis a deadly and speedy poison. I have seen it administered, andMboundou Leaf ( half size).*have seen the poor drinker fall down dead, with blood gushingfrom his mouth, eyes, and nose in five minutes after taking thedose. I was told by a native friend that sometimes, when themboundou-drinker is really hated, the dose is strengthenedsecretly; and this was the case, I suppose, in those instanceswhere I saw it prove fatal. I have also been assured by negroes

• I gave to Prof. John Torrey, of New York, some of the leaves and root of

this remarkable plant for chemical analysis, and insert here the note in whichhe communicates his opinion as to its properties and chemical affinities."96, St. Mark's Place, New York, Nov. 27th, 1860." MY DEAR SIR,-The leaf and root of the mboundou which you placed inmy hands for examination are insufficient materials for determining with certainty the plant to which they belong. From the intensely poisonous qualityof the root, and the symptoms which result from its administration, there canbe little doubt that the active principle is a vegeto-alkali belonging to theStrychnine group. Under a powerful glass, I have not been able to detect anycrystalline salt in the bark. The taste of the infusion is extremely bitter.The ligneous portion of the bark is much less active, is very hard, and, fromthe numerous annual rings, it must be of very slow growth."The mboundou pretty certainly belongs to a natural order that containsmany venomous plants-viz. , the LOGANIACEA; and, from the peculiarveining of the leaves, it is probably a species of Strychnos belonging to thatsection of the genus which includes S. nux vomica."Mr. Paul B. Du Chaillu."" Yours truly," JOHN TORREY.S258 A MBOUNDOU PROPHET. CHAP. XV.that sometimes the veins of the person who drinks it burstopen.This time I overlooked the whole operation. Several of thenatives took the root and scraped it into a bowl. To this a pintof water was poured. In about a minute fermentation tookplace the ebullition looked very much like that of champagnewhen poured into a glass. The water then took the reddishcolour ofthe cuticle of the mboundou root. When the fermentation subsided, Olanga was called by his friends. The drinker isnot permitted to be present at the preparation of the mboundou,but he may send two friends to see that all is fair.When Olanga came he emptied the bowl at a draught. Inabout five minutes the poison took effect. He began to staggerabout. His eyes became bloodshot. His limbs twitched convulsively. His speech grew thick; * and other important symptoms showed themselves, which are considered as a sign thatthe poison will not be fatal. The man's whole behaviour waswas that of a drunken man. He began to babble wildly; andnow it was supposed that the inspiration was upon him. Immediately they began to ask him whether any man was trying tobewitch Quengueza. This question was repeated several times.At last he said, " Yes, some one was trying to bewitch the king. ”Then came the query, " Who?" But by this time the poorfellow was fortunately hopelessly tipsy, and incapable of reasonable speech. He babbled some unintelligible jargon, and presently the palaver was declared over.While he was being questioned, about one hundred people sataround with sticks in their hands. These they beat regularlyupon the ground, and sung in a monotone," If he is a witch, let the mboundou kill him.If he is not, let the mboundou go out."The whole ceremony lasted about half an hour; and when itwas over the people dispersed, and Olanga, who had by thattime partially recovered, lay down to sleep. I was told thatthis old Olanga could drink the poison in very considerable

• A frequent and involuntary discharge of the urine is the surest indication

that the mboundou will have no fatal effect, as it proved with Olanga, otherwise it is generally followed by death . The very words employed by themen when any one drinks the poison seem to imply what are its usual consequences.CHAP. XV. NEGRO STORIES OF THE GORILLA. 259quantities and at frequent intervals, with no other ill effect thanthis intoxication. This gave him, of course, a great name amongthese superstitious people.When the mboundou ceremony was over we returned toGoumbi. Next day (the 10th) we were to go to a considerabledistance, to a spot where Etia gave me hopes we should catch ayoung gorilla alive, perhaps. This I was most anxious of all todo. I would have gone through any hardships and peril to getone large enough to be kept alive.This time we had a large party: Etia, Gambo, myself, andten men, each armed and laden with provisions for a couple ofdays. The men were covered with fetiches and charms. Theyhad painted their faces red, and had cut their hands thisbleeding of the hands being done for luck. The fellows werevery nearly naked-but this is their usual habit.1As for me, I had also made extra preparations. I had blackened my face and hands with powdered charcoal and oil, andmy blue drilling-shirt and trousers and black shoes made me asdark as any of them. My revolver hung at my side, with ammunition-bag and brandy-flask. My rifle lay upon my shoulder.All this excited the admiration of the crowd who assembled tosee us set out.Quengueza was greatly delighted, and exclaimed, “ Whatkind of ntangani (white man) is this? He fears nothing; hecares for neither sun nor water; he loves nothing but the hunt. ”The old fellow charged the people to take great care of hiswhite man, and to defend him with their lives if need be.We travelled all day, and about sunset came to a little river.Here we began at once to make a fire and leafy shelters for thenight. Scarce was the firewood gathered, and we safely bestowedunder our shelters, than a storm came up, which lasted half anhour. Then all was clear once more. We cooked plantains andsmoked fish. I fried a piece of ham for myself; and, withtobacco, afterwards, we were as jolly as could be. Now camestories of gorillas, to which I always listened with great interest.The natives of the whole gorilla region have like superstitionsabout these ferocious beasts, though each relater speaks fromdifferent authority."I remember," said one, " my father told me he once wentout to the forest, when just in his path he met a great gorilla.s 2260 FEMALE GORILLA SHOT. CHAP. XV.My father had his spear in his hands; when the gorilla saw thespear he began to roar. Then my father was terrified anddropped his spear. When the gorilla saw that my father droppedthe spear he was pleased. He looked at him, then left him andwent into the thick forest.on his way."Then my father was glad, and wentHere all shouted together, " Yes! so we must do when wemeet the gorilla. Drop the spear. That appeases him."Next Gambo spoke: " Several dry seasons ago a man suddenly disappeared from my village after an angry quarrel. Sometime after an Ashira of that village was out in the forest. Hemet a very large gorilla. That gorilla was the man who haddisappeared. He had turned into a gorilla. He jumped onthe poor Ashira, and bit a piece out of his arm. Then he lethim go. Then the man came back, with hisbleeding arm. Hetold me this. I hope we shall meet no suchman-gorillas. Theyare very wicked. We would have terrible times."Chorus. " No, we shall not meet such wicked gorillas."Then one of the men spoke up: " If we kill a gorilla to-morrow, I should like to have a piece of the brain for my fetich.Nothing makes a man so brave as to have a fetich of gorilla'sbrain. This gives a man a strong heart. "Chorus (of those who remained awake): " Yes! this gives aman strong heart."Thus we gradually dropped off asleep.Next morning we cleaned and reloaded our guns, and startedoff to the hunting-ground. There is a particular little berrygrowing close to the ground of which the gorilla is very fond,and where this is found in abundance you are sure to meet theanimal. We had gone on about an hour when we heard thecry of a young gorilla after its mother. Etia heard it first, andat once pointed out the direction in which it was.At once we began to walk with greater caution than before,and presently Etia and Gambo crept ahead, as they were expertwith the net, and also the best woodsmen. I unwillingly remained behind, but dared not go with them lest my clumsiermovements should betray our presence.In about half an hour we heard two guns fired. Running upwe found the mother-gorilla shot, but her little one had escaped.They had not been able to catch it.CHAP. XV. THE YOUNG GORILLA CAPTURED. 261The poor mother lay there in her gore, but the little fellowwas off in the woods; so we concealed ourselves hard by to waitfor its return. Presently it came up, jumped on its mother,began sucking at her breasts and fondling her.Then Etia,Gambo, and I rushed upon it. Though evidently less than twoyears old, it proved very strong, and escaped from us.But wegave chace, and in a few minutes had it fast; not, however,before one of the men had his arm severely bitten by the wicked little wretch.It proved to be a young female. We carried it back to themother, first securing it with some stout cords and sticks. Itran to its dead mother, and in a touching way buried its headin her bosom, and seemed really to feel grief.We determined to go back to the camp for the day. Themother was at once skinned, and I took skin and skeleton, whilethe men divided the meat among them. The little one wasthen carried along, but proved very troublesome, making savageattempts to bite all who came near her.The mother-gorilla was 4 feet 4 inches in height; the littleone was 2 feet 1 inch high. I lost the skin of the old one,which was spoiled before I could prepare it.The little one, unhappily, lived but ten days after capture.She persistently refused to eat any cooked food, and anything, infact, but the nuts and berries which they eat in the forest, andwhich my men were obliged to gather daily for her use. She wasnot so ferocious as the male I had before, but quite as treacherousand quite as untameable. She permitted no one to approach herwithout making offensive demonstrations. Her eyes seemedsomewhat milder, but had the same gloomy and treacherouslook, and she had the same way as my other intractable captiveof looking you straight in the eyes when she was meditating anattack. I remarked also the same manoeuvre practised by theother when she wished to seize something-say my leg, which,by reason of her chain, she could not reach with her arm:she looked me straight in the face, then quick as a flash threwher body on one leg and arm, and reached out with the otherleg. Several times I had narrow escapes of a grip from herstrong great-toe. I thought I saw sometimes that when shelooked at me it was as though she were cross-eyed, but of this Icould not make certain. All her motions were remarkably262 A WOMAN PALAVER. CHAP. XV.quick, and her strength, though so small and young, was extraordinary.While she was alive no woman who was enceinte, nor thehusband of such woman, dared approach her cage. They believefirmly that should the husband of a woman with child, or thewoman herself, see a gorilla, even a dead one, she would givebirth to a gorilla, and not to a man child. This superstition Ihave noticed among other tribes too, and only in the case oftheGorilla.When we returned to town I found the king making a tremendous row about the misconduct of a piece of property hehad inherited from his deceased brother. I have already explained that in this country the children do not inherit. Whena man dies, his brothers, if he has any, come into possession ofhis property. If there are no brothers, then cousins, uncles,and only in the last resort children. It should be added thatproperty means chiefly slaves and wives. The house remainsto the widows till the mourning-time is over, and is then burned down. Plantations are not property, because any man maycultivate any piece of land, but holds only during use. Gunsand such personal property are all divided immediately after death.Nowthe piece of property which had caused Quengueza's irewas the favourite wife of the deceased king. The mourningtime was nearly over, and Quengueza had announced that theroyal widows should be divided among his male relativescousins--he reserving to himself only one or two of the bestlooking. Now the royal fancy had been set particularly uponthis one in question, and she, with feminine perverseness, hadbeen caught in an intrigue with a common-but very goodlooking-fellow of the town. Quengueza was highly enraged.He swore he would not take a single one of his brother's widows.He swore revenge on the fellow who had so displaced him. Thepeople were very much distressed. They came in a body andbegged him to take at least two of his brother's wives. Thetown was agitated the whole day upon the important question;and I was pleased to hear at sunset that Quengueza had at lastthought it best to accede to the wishes of his people. So thatfuss was over.The poor fellow who caused such a popular commotion sentCHAP. XV. GREAT HEAT. 263slaves to his majesty But his majesty as a peace-offering.grandly sent them back, and with them word that he wouldreceive nothing from one who had so injured him.For several days I hunted the woods near Goumbi, shootingchiefly birds. I find the birds and also the quadrupeds of thisregion very much the same as in the Cape Lopez interior. Thesoil appears rich, and thick forests prevail hereabouts. Ebony iscut a little farther up the river. India-rubber vines I have notseen in such plenty here. Elephants are abundant some twentymiles off. But ebony is likely to be the chief produce of thevicinity of Goumbi.On the 18th of March I asked Quengueza to expedite me tothe interior. The Bakalai and Ashira chiefs had both asked meto come to their country, assuring me good hunts and kind treatment. Quengueza spoke of more presents, as a way of enhancinghis importance among the neighbouring tribes. I gave himsomethings, and " trusted " him with 200 dollars' worth of goods, forwhich he is to give me ebony when I return from the interior.I also trusted four of the chief men of the town. At this thewhole population was extravagantly delighted, for this gave themall profitable employment at cutting ebony.At last, on the 22nd, we got off for up the river. Quenguezaand I with my baggage were in a large canoe, which had twentytwo paddlers. The Ashira and Bakalai chiefs followed in othercanoes, and to them followed several Goumbi canoes. It wasintensely hot. Even the negroes suffered; and, though I had athick umbrella over my head, and sat quite still, I had frequentlyto bathe my head, for I feared a sunstroke.The river is narrow but quite deep above Goumbi, and thecurrent is much stronger than below. It is, in fact, now a realand live river, flowing in a deep channel between high lands andhills. Here I fancy the dry season does not diminish it so muchbut what steamers may always safely navigate.Everybody complained but my little Makondai. The littlerascal had a pride in all he endured in my company. He is themost spirited little negro I ever saw, a real little hero; and Iam glad I took him with me, though it was hard for him sometimes.The first town we stopped at was Akaka, the first of the Bakalai towns, about fifteen miles from Goumbi. From here Icould see the high mountains of the far interior. They rose blue264 A WELCOME RAINSTORM. CHAP. XV.against the sky to the E.N.E.; and I should think the nearesthills could not have been more than thirty-five miles away on anair-line. The high blue peaks were much farther off, of course.But these farthest peaks I hoped yet to reach, there to plant theAmerican flag where no white man had stood before.A little before we got to Akaka we came to a holy place onthe river called Evendja- Quengouai. Here all hands got out ofthe canoes to dance. It is the rule that all who have not passedup the river before shall sing a song of praise to the god of theplace, and pluck a branch from a tree which must be set in themud near the shore. This is for luck. Poor Makondai washurried off to take his share in the devotions before I knew whatwas going to be done. I also was invited, but told Quenguezathat there was but one God, to whom I trusted all of us."Yes," said he, " that is good for you. But we must havemany We are not like you white men.' . We are poor.""In the afternoon we lay by at a plantation, while a terriblerainstorm burst over the country, cooling the air deliciously.These storms, which come up at this season nearly every day,help one to bear the dreadful heat which, without this relief,would be, I believe, insupportable. To-day at noon my thermometer stood at 119° Fahrenheit in the shade of my umbrella.When we stopped for breakfast next day, I noticed a little wayfrom us an extraordinary tree, quite the largest in height andcircumference I ever saw in Africa. It was a real monarch ofeven this great forest. It rose in one straight and majestic trunkentirely branchless, till the top reached far above all the surrounding trees. There at the top the branches were spread outsomewhat like an umbrella, but could not give much shade,being so high. I found that this tree was highly venerated bythe people, who call it the oloumi. Its kind are not commoneven here, where its home is said to be. Its bark is said to havecertain healing properties, and is also in request from a beliefthat if a man going off on a trading expedition washes himselffirst all over in a decoction of its juices in water, he will be luckyand shrewd in making bargains. For this reason great stripswere torn off this tree to the height of at least twenty feet.In the afternoon we passed a creek or bayou, called the Elivamonos-so called because of the exceeding abundance there ofthat delicious fish the mullet. Bakalai villages now becamemore frequent; and I see that these people are more energeticCHAP. XV. GRAND RECEPTION BY OBINDJI. 265and provident than the seashore tribes. At Mpopo I saw thousands of plantain-trees surrounding the village. Finally wearrived at the village of Obindji, a chief who is a great friend ofQuengueza's, and with whom we shall make our headquartersfor a while.The people rushed down to the banks to see me, none of themhaving ever seen a white man before. They looked at me withgreat curiosity, and particularly admired my hair, which is alwaysan object of curiosity to the Africans.We came up firing guns and singing songs. When we approached the shore Obindji came down in great state, dressed inhis silk hat (the crown) , a coat and shirt, and a nice cloth. Hewas ringing his kendo, a bell, which is the insignia of kingshiphere-something like a royal sceptre.I said, “ Why do you ring your kendo? "He replied, " Obindji's heart is glad, and he thanks hisMboundji (fetich) that he has to-day come up higher than heever stood before. A Mbuiri (spirit) has come to see Obindji."When we were landed, and the two kings and I were seated inchairs, the grand reception began. Quengueza gave a relationof his entire intercourse with me from the time he came down tosee me to the present hour. All was said in short sentences; andthe people who listened gave frequent approval. Then Obindjireplied, giving, in like manner, a statement of his feelings whenhe heard that Quengueza was about to bring a white man to seehim, &c. Then they clapped hands; Obindji shook hands withme (very awkwardly); and then the ceremony, which had lastedthree-quarters of an hour, was over.The town of Obindji is, by my reckoning, about 140 miles fromthe mouth of the river. It is a recent settlement, and not verylarge. The family is quite powerful; but when their chiefwished to remove to the river from his inland settlement, mostof his people refused. These Bakalai are reputed to be very warlike, and various circ*mstances show that they are so. They aremuch dreaded by other tribes; and I find that these others haveleft all the right side of the river to their fighting neighbours.Those who live on the river-bank, however, are in some sortbound to keep the peace; for they have no right near the waterbut with the leave of Quengueza, and this they get only onpromise of peaceable behaviour.Their houses also show their prominent trait. They are not266 QUENGUEZA'S POLITENESS. CHAP. XV.built of split bamboos, like those farther down the river, but ofbark, which is peeled off large trees in slips four to five feet longand a foot wide, and securely lashed on the sides. This makesthem tight. The bamboo walls always have open strips, throughwhich an enemy can see to shoot those inside. From thisdanger the bark walls protect them. The houses here are small,however, not more than twelve feet long by eight wide. Theyare generally two rooms deep, and in the back room the familysleep, while in front their goods are kept. In war-time theychange their sleeping-places in the house every night, so that theenemy may be at a loss where to fire when attacking from theoutside.They have a few guns among them; but a man who owns agun and some powder is rich. They were much astonished atmy percussion-locks, and yet more at my revolver, which was aconstant marvel to them. Revolvers of simple constructionwould bring almost any price among these people if they couldbe made with flint-locks.The town, and another which lay just above, separated fromObindji's by a narrow creek, were surrounded with extensivemanioc plantations. Here I notice again that the Bakalai raisebetter crops than the lower tribes.During the week so many people came from up the river thatfood grew scarce, and Quengueza sent down to Goumbi for supplies for our party. One very old chief came down from histown, over a hundred miles farther up the river. Whenhe cameashore Quengueza and I went to see him in his house, waivingceremony on account of his age. When he saw me he startedback, and was much moved. He exclaimed , " You are not aman. You are a mbuiri " (spirit ). He had come the longjourney, he said, to see the man who made guns and powder;and I saw clearly he wished to ask me, as the Fan people did, tosit down and make him some guns.I had a laugh at Quengueza, who endeavours to teach all hisneighbours the ideas he gets from me.In common with manyof his subjects, the old fellow was much troubled with fleas, andwhen, as he stood talking with me, a flea became too troublesome, he used to adroitly catch him, and gravely crack him onhis thumbnail. This disgusted me so that I remonstrated, andat last succeeded in reforming this one of his abuses. But nosooner had he given up the disgusting practice himself, than heCHAP. XV. OBINDJI'S EASY-CHAIR. 267at once forbade it to all his own subjects, and became a mostzealous advocate to decency among our Bakalai friends."Why do you crack your fleas before my white man, eh?Dirty fellow! Go away! You make my white man sick! " heused to cry out. And to-day, when we had our interview withthe up-river chief, Quengueza was equally zealous-though morepolite with him. But the old man replied, " Thus have I doneall my life -it is now too late; " and gravely continued hismassacre.Obindji's chair is a remarkable specimen of furniture, the onlyquestion arising in my mind is to know how my friend Obindjifinds comfort in such a position. It is really amusing to me tolook at him while he is seated on a little stool, his back restingon the main part of the arm-chair, while his arms are supportedby two ofthe roots. In this attitude he seems to enjoy his pipe.most wonderfully, and presents a perfect type of African laziness.The easy-chair is made out of a single root of a tree, and generally the possession of one is attainable only by rich men.FridaObindji in his Easy- Chair.As Obindji is to be our headquarters, we are having housesbuilt. The men have gone out into the forest to collect bark,and leaves, and posts. Meantime the 28th was Sunday, and Irequested Quengueza to make the men rest on this day, explaining to him the nature of our Sabbath.The old man was puzzled for a moment, then said:-"Weare much hurried now. Suppose you put off the Sundayfor three or four weeks; then we can have as many Sundays asyou want."268 WONDER OF MY VISITORS. CHAP. XV.I had a slight attack of fever, caused doubtless by the greatheat we suffered from on the river. Some of the men had fever,too, and also Quengueza's brother. I gave them quinine, whichcured them and relieved me too.Up-river chiefs continue to come in with their wives, slaves,and people—all anxious to see the man who makes guns, beads,iron and brass kettles, &c .; and all rapt in astonishment at mystrange appearance. They seem really to find a much greatercontrast between myself and them than I can see. Most of themregard me as a powerful spirit, and all admire Quengueza's fortune, who has the care of me, and whose friend I am. Many ofthe chiefs are fine-looking fellows, well armed with spears andbows. They seem brave and warlike. Some of their caps andgrass-cloth are very finely made; and I am really anxious, themore I see, to get among the Ashira, who seem to be the mostingenious of all these people. All these visitors had heard of mytrusting Quengueza, and now came to beg goods from him, forwhich they would help him to cut ebony.On the 30th my house was done, and I set up my bed andother household goods. I had with me an American clock; andthis excited the constant wonder and awe of the people, who couldnot be persuaded but it was a spirit, and a very powerful spirit,keeping watch over me. This day, also, a Bakalai chef who isto hunt with me brought me in a female gorilla which he hadkilled in the woods. This female was not quite full- grown. Itmeasured three feet eleven inches. Its canine teeth had notattained their full size. The face was intensely black, as werealso the hands and feet. The hair onthe crown was reddish, butnot so deep a colour as in some older females I have seen. Onthe body the hair was a blackish-red, and no longer on the armsthan on the rest of the body. The breast was covered only withvery light down.The heat is still excessive. It rains every night, and thatsomewhat cools the air; but in the afternoon, my thermometer,standing in a well-shaded place, ranges from 106° to 98°. Thereis but little breeze, and the air is oppressively hot. On the 2ndof April I saw another trial by ordeal performed. A little boy,son to Aquailai, the doctor who had driven the witch from themain street of Goumbi, reported that one of Quengueza's men haddamaged a Bakalai canoe. The owner required to be paid forthe injury. The Goumbi man denied the act, and asked for trial.CHAP. XV. ORDEAL OF THE HOT RING. 269An Ashira doctor was called in, who said that the only way tomake the truth appear was by the trial of the ring boiled in oil.Hereupon the Bakalai and the Goumbi men gathered together,and the trial was at once made.The Ashira doctor set three little billets of bar- wood in theground with their ends together, then piled some smaller piecesbetween, till all were laid as high as the three pieces. A nativepot half- full of palm-oil was set upon the wood, and the oil wasset on fire. When it burned up brightly a brass ring from thedoctor's hand was cast into the pot; the doctor stood by with alittle vase full of grass soaked in water, of which he threw in nowand thensome bits. This made the oil blaze up afresh. At lastall was burned out, and now came the trial. The accuser, thelittle boy, was required to take the ring out of the pot. Hehesitated, but was pushed on by his father. The people criedout, " Let us see if he lied or told truth."Finally he put his hand in, seized the red-hot ring, but quicklydropped it, having severely burnt his fingers. At this there wasa shout, He lied! he lied!" and the Goumbi man was declaredinnocent.66I ventured to suggest that he also would burn his fingers if hetouched the ring; but nobody seemed to consider this view. Ijudge that where an accuser has to substantiate a charge in thisway information is not easily to be got.On the 6th, at last, we set off for a two or three days' hunt.We went up-river for about ten miles, and then struck inland toa deserted Bakalai village, where we made our camp. Whenthat was arranged we went out to look for gorilla-tracks. It wastoo late to hunt; but Querlaouen, my chief hunter, wanted to beready for the morrow. I saw nothing; but Malaouen, anotherhunter, came in after dark, and said he had heard the cry of thekooloo, and knew where to find it in the morning. I myself onreturning to the camp had heard this cry, but did not knowwhat animal had uttered it.Of course I asked what this kooloo was, and received foranswer a circ*mstantial description of the animal, which threwme into the greatest excitement; for I saw that this was mostcertainly a new species of ape, of which I had not even heard asyet. It was called kooloo- kamba, by the Goumbi people, from itsnoise or call, " kooloo," and the Camma word kamba, whichmeans " speak." The Bakalai call it simply " koola."270 THE KOOLOO-KAMBA. CHAP. XV.I scarce slept all night with fidgeting over the morrow'sprospects. The kooloo was said to be very rare here, and therewas a chance only that we should find that one whose call hadbeen heard.At last the tedious night was gone. At the earliest streak ofdawn I had my men up. We had fixed our guns the nightbefore. All was ready, and we set out in two parties. My partyhad been walking through the forest about an hour, whensuddenly I stepped into a file of bashikouay ants, whose fiercebites nearly made me scream. The little rascals were infuriatedat my disturbance of their progress, and held on to my legs andto my trousers till I picked them off. Of course I jumpednimbly out of the way of the great army of which they formedpart, but I did not get off without some severe bites.We had hardly got clear of the bashikouays when my earswere saluted by the singular cry of the ape I was after. " Koolakooloo, koola-kooloo," it said several times. Gambo andMalaouen alone were with me. Gambo and I raised our eyes,and saw, high up in a tree-branch, a large ape. We both firedat once, and the next moment the poor beast fell with a heavycrash to the ground. I rushed up, anxious to see if, indeed, Ihad a new animal. I saw in a moment that it was neithera nshiego mbouvé, nor a chimpanzee, nor a gorilla. Again Ihad a happy day-marked for ever with red ink in my calendar.We at once disembowelled the animal, which was a male. Ifound in its intestines only vegetable matter and remains. Theskin and skeleton were taken into camp, where I cured the formerwith arsenic sufficiently to take it into Obindji.The animal was a full-grown male, four feet three inches high.It was less powerfully built than the male gorilla, but as powerful as either the chimpanzee or nshiego mbouvé. When it wasbrought into Obindji, all the people and even Quengueza, at onceexclaimed, " That is a kooloo-kamba. " Then I asked themaboutthe other apes I already knew; but for these they had othernames, and did not at all confound the species. For all thesereasons I was assured that my prize was indeed a new animal;a variety, at least, of those before known.The kooloo-kamba has for distinctive marks a very round head;whiskers running quite round the face and below the chin; theface is round; the cheek-bones prominent; the cheeks sunken;the jaws not very prominent- less so than in any of the apes.THE KOOLOO- KAMBA.

CHAP. XV. GOUAMBA. 271The hair is black; long on the arm, which was, however, partlybare.The chimpanzee is not found in the woods where I shot thiskooloo-kamba. The gorilla is evidently much the more powerfulanimal of the two. The kooloo is, however, the ape, of all thegreat apes nowknown, which most nearly approaches man in thestructure of its head. The capacity of the cranium is somewhatgreater, in proportion to the animal's size, than in either thegorilla or the nshiego mbouvé. Of its habits these people couldtell me nothing, except that farther interior it was found morefrequently, and that it was, like the gorilla, very shy and hardof approach.Meat was now becoming scarce, and I was glad to go back totown; and happier yet when Querlaouen overhauled us with awild pig as a prize, of which the good fellow gave me half. Thenegroes were feasting on the kooloo-meat, which I could nottouch. So the pig was welcome to me, as indeed it was toQuengueza, whom we found almost crying with an affectionwhich is common in Africa, and is called gouamba-but for whichwe, happily, have no name. Gouamba is the inordinate longingand craving of exhausted nature for meat. The vegetable diethere is not of a satisfying nature at best. Just now all provisionswere scarce in Obindji, and even Quengueza had not tasted meatfor four days. He was exhausted, nervous, and, though a stoutold fellow, really whimpering. This was gouamba, of which Ihave suffered often enough in these wilds to vouch that it is areal and frightful torture.The rainy season is now at its height. The river is swollen;the water rushes down in a yellowmuddy stream, and on a levelwith the banks. My house is but about four feet above thewater-level, and it stands on high ground. Below, at this time,all is overflowed; and on the Anengue Lake the crocodiles haveprobably retired to the reeds.Accusations of sorcery are really the cause of very manytroubles and miseries among these people. On the 11thObindji's younger brother was brought up on a charge of havingbewitched to death his elder brother, Obindji's predecessor. Thisman had been dead a year, and his poor brother had alreadydrunk mboundou three times to establish his innocence. Stillthe charge was pushed. He gave away some slaves for peace'272 NEGRO DOCTORS OR PROPHETS. CHAP. XV.sake. But now his brother-in-law demanded another trial. Iinterfered and procured his release, at least while I am here.On the 12th Quengueza went down to Goumbi to attend toanother case of mboundou- drinking. Ayoung girl is accused ofhaving bewitched some fellow who died, and has now to undergothe ordeal. God help her! I made the king promise me sheshould not be killed. More I could not do.I meantime went off to a neighbouring town where a friend ofmine had killed three elephants. These animals are not veryplentiful hereabouts, but they are not much hunted either. Thenatives are too idle to take the trouble, and would rather suffergouamba often than go hunt. Besides this, guns have become somuchthe use here that they no longer entrap or spear the hugebeast, but trust to their hunters for supplies. Those only haveguns. It is strange how even here, where no white man hasever been, guns and powder, brass and iron pots, beads, &c. , arenot at all uncommon. Of course all such things have an extravagant value, which is an advantage to the trader, or would be,could he come up here.I came into the town just when the ceremonial dance was aboutto be performed which precedes the division of the meat. Thisis a thankoffering to two spirits, Mondo and Olombo, who seem tohave an influence on the hunt. An Ashira doctor was leadingin the ceremonies. I find here, as I have heard it said also inmore civilized countries, that the prophet gains in repute thefarther he travels from home. In Goumbi a Bakalai doctor washeld in high esteem. In Biagano a Goumbi doctor was chiefof all the prophets. Here, among the Bakalai, only an Ashiradoctor was thought worthy. So it goes.They had three pieces, cut from the hind-quarters of theelephants, boiling in large pots. Around these they, danced,while the Ashira doctor chanted praises and petitions to thespirits. A piece was cut off and sent into the woods to appeasethe hunger of these deities (or more likely of their representatives,the leopards), and then the rest was eaten. Next came thedivision of the great heaps of uncooked meat.The town,the town's friends, the hunters, the hunters' friends, and theirfriends, all came and got shares. I received about fifty poundsfor myself; and though the meat is unpleasant to the taste,tough to chew, and in every way unpalatable, as I knew toCHAP. XV. A DEVIL-BIRD. 273my cost by former sad experience, I was glad to have it; formeat was scarce, and I had the appetite of a hunter.The killing of an elephant is an event among the Bakalai, notonly for the meat, but because the ivory is sent down to thecoast, and procures for them the cloth, powder, guns, trinketswhatever they get of civilized people; for they do not yet cutmuch ebony or bar- wood.Hunting in the rear of the village, on the 15th, I shot acurious bird, the Alethe castanea-a new species. It is said bythe natives to have a devil in it-for what reason I could notdiscover; probably for none. But its habit makes it singular.They fly in a small flock, and follow industriously the bashikouayants in their marches about the country. The bird is insectivorous; and when the bashikouay army routs before it thefrightened grasshoppers and beetles, the bird, like a regular campfollower, pounces on the prey and carries it off. I think it doesnot eat the bashikouay.My old enemies the snakes are quite abundant in these woods.As we push through the bush we often see some great anacondahanging from a projecting bough, waiting its prey. The otherday I shot a little bird which, in its fall, lodged among somevines. I was anxious to get it, and began to climb up after it.Just as I was reaching out for my bird, a snake, belonging to oneof the most venomous kinds found in this part of Africa, stuckout his head at me from the thick vine foliage. I was very muchstartled, and dropped down to the ground without loss of time.Fortunately I had only to drop a few feet. It was one of thenarrowest escapes I had in Africa-for there is no cure for thisserpent's bite, and I could literally feel its breath against my facebefore I saw it.Singularly few accidents happen from snake-bites among thenatives. They wander everywhere barefooted, and seem to haveno dread till they see a snake, when they scamper off fast enoughif it is very venomous. The python they kill because theylike its meat, which, they say, makes a delicious soup. I havenever tasted it.When, as here, I am hunting regularly, I get up at five in themorning. Monguilomba then makes me a strong cup of coffee,which is served by Makondai. This drunk, daylight showsitself; I start for the bush and hunt until ten, which is myT274 A DAY'S WORK. CHAP XV.breakfast-hour. After breakfast I stuff the birds shot in themorning, and rest till three. Then out again into the bush tillsix, which is sunset and dark here, when I get back and findmy dinner ready, with Makondai to wait on me. After dinnerbird-stuffing goes on again, till all the prizes of the day aresecure. That done, I go among the people and hear them talkuntil it is time to go to sleep.This is the average day. Of course, when we go out on greathunts, all orderly arrangements are broken up; and I have oftento sit up half or all the night to prepare my prizes, which will notkeep till next day in this hot climate.CHAP. XVI. VENOMOUS FLIES. 275CHAPTER XVI.Venomous Flies- Gorilla Cutting Ebony---―Famine - Njani Oil - Gorilla --- The Ebony- tree--Anguilai'sTown - Superstitions - Severe Sickness - Kindness of the native Women to me Child murdered for Sorcery - New Cure for Sterility - Ivoryeaters - Manioc - Capture a young Nshiego Mbouvé - Its grief for its Mother · Biography of Nshiego Tommy - Easily tamed— His TricksHabits - Love for Wine and Scotch Ale - His Death Curious ColourEvidence of their vast Strength -Guaniony - Return to Obindji's - Letters and Papers from Home — Astonishment of the Negroes at my Reading -The Ofoubou River- Starvation- Njalie Coody The Njambai Festival - Woman's Rights among the Bakalai A midnight Festival A Mystery — An Attempt at Blackmail-Nature ofthe Njambai, or Guardian Spirit — Hunter killed by Gorilla --Native Superstitions -The Dry Season Gouamba -The Eloway FlyHuge Serpents - Enormous Gorilla killed - Curious Superstition aboutthe Gorilla and a pregnant Woman -Animals peculiar to this RegionGenerosity of the Blacks - The Superstition of Roondah — Return.--―ON Tuesday, the 20th of April, we set out for one of our greathunts, going up the river a short distance and then striking intothe forests. We found many open spots in these woods, wherethe soil was sandy, and the grass was not very luxuriant,growing not more than two feet high. The sun is very oppressivein these clear spots..We were troubled, too, on the prairie by two very savage flies,called by the negroes the boco and the nchouna. These insectsattacked us with a terrible persistency which left us no peace.They were very quiet bloodsuckers, and I never knew of theirattacks till I felt the itch which follows the bite when the fly hasleft it. This is again followed by a little painful swelling.The next day we were out after gorillas, which we knew wereto be found hereabouts by the presence of a pulpy pear- shapedfruit growing close to the ground, the tondo, of which thisanimal is very fond. I also am very fond of the subdued andgrateful acid of this fruit, which the negroes eat as well as thegorilla. It is curious that that which grows in the sandy soilof the prairie is not fit to eat.We found everywhere gorilla-marks, and so recent that weT 2276 MEETING A GORILLA. CHAP. XVI.began to think the animals must be avoiding us. This was thecase, I think, though I am not sure. At any rate we beat thebush for two hours before, at last, we found the game. Suddenlyan immense gorilla advanced out of the wood straight towardsus, and gave vent as he came up to a terrible howl of rage-asmuch as to say, " I am tired of being pursued, and will face you. "It was a lone male-the kind who are always most ferocious;and this fellow made the woods ring with his roar, which is reallyan awful sound, resembling very much the rolling and mutteringof distant thunder.He was about twenty yards off when we first saw him. We atonce gathered together, and I was about to take aim and bringhim down where he stood, when Malaouen stopped me, saying,in a whisper, " Not time yet."We stood therefore in silence, guns in hand. The gorillalooked at us for a minute or so out of his evil gray eyes, then beathis breast with his gigantic arms, gave another howl of defiance,and advanced upon us.Again he stopped, now not more than fifteen yards away.Still Malaouen said, " Not yet. "Then again an advance upon us.Now he was not twelveyards off. I could see plainly the ferocious face of the monstrous ape. It was working with rage; his huge teeth wereground against each other so that we could hear the sound; theskin of the forehead was moved rapidly back and forth, and gavea truly devilish expression to the hideous face: once more hegave out a roar which seemed to shake the woods like thunder,and, looking us in the eyes and beating his breast, advancedagain. This time he came within eight yards of us before hestopped. My breath was coming short with excitement as Iwatched the huge beast. Malaouen said only " Steady!" as hecame up.When he stopped, Malaouen said, " Now. " And before hecould utter the roar for which he was opening his mouth, threemusket-balls were in his body. He fell dead almost without astruggle."Don't fire too soon. Ifyou do not kill him he will kill you,"said Malaouen to me-a piece of advice which I found afterwardswas too literally true.It was a huge old beast indeed. Its height was 5 feet 6CHAP. XVI. THE EBONY-TREE. 277inches. Its arms had a spread of 7 feet 2 inches. Its hugebrawny chest measured 50 inches around. The big toe or thumbof its foot measured 5 inches in circumference. Its arm seemedonly immense bunches of muscle, and its legs and claw-like feetwere so well fitted for grabbing and holding, that I could seehow easy it was for the negroes to believe that this animal conceals itself in trees, and pulls up with its foot any living thing—leopard, ox, or man-that passes beneath. There is no doubtthe gorilla can do this, but that he does it I do not believe. Theyare ferocious, mischievous, but not carnivorous.The face of this gorilla was intensely black. The vast chest,which proved his great power, was bare, and covered with aparchment-like skin. Its body was covered with gray hair.Though there are sufficient points of diversity between thisanimal and man, I never kill one without having a sickeningrealization of the horrid human likeness of the beast. This wasparticularly the case to-day, when the animal approached us inits fierce way, walking on its hind legs, and facing us as fewanimals dare face man.On the 27th of April Quengueza and I, with about twentyslaves and some hunters, started up river for the ebony country,where the king wished to cut wood, while I should hunt. Allthe forests up here are full of precious woods. Ebony is foundin greatest plenty at the top of the hills which line, at somedistance, the river- course. Bar-wood is found everywhere, andin great abundance. The natives have not yet cut much of it,and there is enough here for a brisk trade for years. TheIndia-rubber vine is found on all hands; and when a regulartrade is once established, this will be one of the great staples ofthe river. There are also many other varieties of hard woods,some pink, some chesnut, some yellow in colour, and all susceptible of a high polish, many of which would, no doubt, have acommercial value were this region opened to white trade.As we were to stay a month, the king took some of his wiveswith him. We pulled up the river against the strong current asbefore; and I learned that the country where we killed thegorilla is called Kanga- Niaré.The ebony-tree is not found on low ground, or near the river.It is met with all along the ridges and hills which run herenorth and south. It is one of the finest and most graceful trees278 THE EBONY OF COMMERCE. CHAP. XVI.of the African forest. Its leaves are long, sharp-pointed, darkgreen, and hang in clusters, producing a grateful shade. Itsbark is smooth, and of a dark-green. The trunk rises straightand clean to a considerable height-often fifty or sixty feet;then large heavy branches are sent out. I have seen one of thesetrees which had a diameter of five feet at the base. The matureebony-tree is always found hollow, and even its branches arehollow. Next the bark is a white " sap-wood, " which is notvaluable. This, in an average tree, is three or four inches thick,and next to this lies the ebony of commerce. The young treesare white or sappy to the centre; and even when they attain adiameter of nearly two feet the black part is streaked with white.Trees less than three feet in diameter are not cut down.Ebony Leaves: Male and Female (half the natural size).The ebony-tree is found intermixed with others in the forest.Generally three or four trees stand together, and none otherswithin a little distance. Thus the cutters move through thewoods constantly seeking trees.We were bound to the town of a chief named Anguilai, whomI had met at Obindji's town. The place was called N'calaiBoumba, and was a considerable town, though very lately built.We were nearly all day on our journey. On the way we passedseveral villages, the largest of which, Npopo, I afterwards visited.The river-banks all the way up are densely wooded, but verysparsely inhabited by the animal creation. We saw but onemonkey and a few birds the whole day.Two hours before reaching this point we had been drenchedCHAP. XVI. AN ATTACK OF FEVER. 279by a severe rain- storm. Great, therefore, was our surprise, when,having climbed over the trees which had been cut down in frontof the town, and which lay there a very formidable barrier to anyone's approach, we found the street dry; and the people were asmuch surprised at seeing us wet. We had happened only toencounter a passing rain-cloud.Anguilai's town is the hottest place I saw in Africa. Most ofthe negroes have wit enough to build on top of some hill, wherethey get a breeze. But this town was set in a hollow, and thehouses were so small and close as to be quite unendurable tome. All these Rembo Bakalai are but lately from the interior.They have been induced to move to the river by Quengueza, whomakes them useful to him, and they are not yet at home there.N'calai- Boumba was not yet a year old. The people were stillawkward canoe- men; and in other matters were evidently not athome in the country.On the 29th I went down to a little village called Npopo, andfound the people all gone into the bush. Everything was openand exposed to thieves; chickens and goats were walking about,and I wondered to see such carelessness in the village. But inthe centre, looking down on everything, stood the mbuiti, or godof Npopo, a copper- eyed divinity, who, I was informed , safelyguarded everything. It seemed absurd; but I was assured thatno one dared steal, and no one did steal, with the eyes of thismbuiti upon him.This uncommonly useful divinity was a rudely- shaped pieceof ebony about two feet high, with a man's face, the nose andeyes of copper, and the body covered with grass.On the last of April I was brought down to my bed with fever.In three days I took 150 grains of quinine and two heavy dosesof calomel. This was the severest attack I had yet had inAfrica. I suffered very much from the heat in the little houses,and was glad when Quengueza had his shades built on the ebonyground and we moved thither.While I lay sick the people came and entreated me not tohunt so much and so constantly. They said, " Look at us; wehunt one day and rest two. When we hunt three days we resta week after it. But you go out every day! " I think they areright, and shall follow their rule.I shall never forget the kindness of the women to me while I280 MURDER OF A BOY. CHAP. XVI.was sick. Poor souls! they are sadly abused by their taskmasters; are the merest slaves, have to do all the drudgery, andtake blows and ill-usage besides; and yet at the sight of sufferingtheir hearts soften just as in our own more civilized lands; andhere, as there, no sooner did sickness come than these kind peoplecame to nurse and take care of me. They tried to cook nicefood for me; they sat by me to fan me; they brought moremats for my bed; brought me water; got me refreshing fruitsfrom the woods; and at night, when I waked up from a feverishdream, I used to hear their voices as they sat around in thedarkness, and pitied me and devised ways for my cure. Theythought some aniemba (devil) had entered my body, and couldnot be persuaded that I was not bewitched.Poor Anguilai was sadly alarmed at my illness. He accusedhis people of wickedly bewitching me; and one still nightwalked up and down the village, threatening, in a loud voice, tokill the sorcerers if he could only find them.On the 5th of May I was able to walk again a little, and wentto see an ebony-tree which had been cut down not far from thetown. It was a magnificent tree, four feet and over in diameterat the base, and furnished eleven splendid billets, weighing 1500pounds. I took particular pains with these, and they went toAmerica afterwards in fine condition, and are of a size that largewide boards could be sawn from them.To cut down such a tree is no small undertaking for thesenegroes with their slight, rude axes. They cut only on one side.Several get to work together, and many hours of steady labourpass ere the tree at last falls. To get my logs down to theriver I had to call in the help of the Bakalai, and we cut a roaddown to the shore, along which the logs were drawn. Someweighed nearly three hundred pounds, and were by far thelargest ever taken from here.On the 6th one of those barbarous scenes occurred in thevillage, which show how even these kind-hearted negroes arewrought to horrid cruelties by their devilish superstitions. Alittle boy of ten years had been accused of sorcery. On beingexamined, he confessed that he had " made a witch. " Hereuponthe whole town seemed to be seized of the devil. They tookspears and knives, and actually cut the poor little fellow topieces. I had been walking out, and returned just as theCHAP. XVI. NEW CURE FOR STERILITY. 281dreadful scene was over. I doubt if I could have saved his lifehad I been on the spot. As it was, I could not even makethe wretched men feel shame at their bloody act. They werestill frantic with rage, and were not quiet for some hours after.The next day (7th) I witnessed another curious scene ofsuperstition. One of the king's wives stood up in the open street andhad herself cut on the back of her hands with knives. She bledvery freely, and seemed to be very glad in her heart at the paininflicted on her. I asked what was the reason for such conduct;and she explained, with a smiling face, that she was weakly andbarren, and that now she would be strong and have children. Itseems to be their method of letting blood.At last, on the 8th, we started for the ebony-woods. Our newlocation was about nine miles from the river, on the side of along hill, and close by where a cool sparkling rivulet leaped fromrock to rock down into the plain, making most pleasant musicfor me as I lay, weak and sick, in camp. Five huge ebony-treeslifted their crowned heads together in a little knot just above us.All around were pleasant and shady woods. It was a very pleasant camp, but proved to have one drawback: we nearly starvedto death. I sent out the hunters immediately on our arrival.They were gone two days, but brought back nothing. Game isscarce here, and without an ashinga or net, such as the GaboonBakalai and other tribes have, not much is to be got. On the11th we began to suffer from gouamba, and got no meat.went out myself and shot several birds-two new: the Camaroptera caniceps and the Geocichla compsonota —and a veryremarkable animal of the squirrel kind, called by the nativesthe mboco, which eats ivory. I have called it the " ivory-eater,Sciurus eborivorus," as the fact that it hunts in the woods thecarcasses of elephants and gnaws the ivory, often destroying thefinest tusks, cannot be disputed. A number of these bittentusks reach the European market. All the negroes of differenttribes tell this story about it. It has very sharp and large cutters,well adapted to its business.So IThe birds and the ivory-eater I ate, preserving their skins,and this relieved my gouamba for the time. On the 12th ourhunters returned. They had killed a gazelle, but, being famishedthemselves, had eaten it. Their hands were empty, and I wasnearly in despair, for we could not buy either fowl or goat; and282 GOUAMBA. CHAP. XVI.though the sister of Anguilai sent me out daily plantains andyams, I needed meat. All the rest, poor fellows, were sufferingwith me; and they had to live on manioc, which is worse thangouamba for me.bluowd AvadMboco, or Ivory-Eater (Sciurus eborivorus).Manioc is the bread of these people, and a very poor kind ofbread it is. It is a root, and is poisonous when first dug from theground. It must, therefore, be laid to soak in water, for fromthree to five days, according to the season. By this time it isrotted, or in a fermented condition, and quite soft, and now it isready for cooking; or if it is for a journey, for drying and smoking. Thus prepared it will keep for six weeks or two months.But I never could get to like the tasteless sour stuff, and neverate it when anything else was to be got.At last I could stand it no longer, and determined to make upa regular hunting-party, and stay out till we got something toeat. Malaouen told me that if we went off about twenty milesCHAP. XVI. CAPTURE OF A YOUNG NSHIEGO MBOUVÉ. 283we should come to a better game country; and so we started inthe direction he pointed out, where, he thought, we should alsofind the gorilla, or perhaps the nshiego mbouvé.The men were covered with greegrees and fetiches, and hadcut their hands for luck. Anguilai told me that his ogana (idol)had told him that to-morrow the heart of otanga (the white man)would be glad, for we should kill game.For some hours after we started we saw nothing but old tracksofdifferent wild beasts, and I began to think that Anguilai's oganahad been too sanguine. Finally, towards twelve o'clock, whenwe were crossing a kind of high table-land, we heard the cry ofa young animal, which we all recognized to be a nshiego mbouvé,Then all my troubles at once went away out of mind, and I nolonger felt either sick or hungry.We crawled through the bush as silently as possible, still hearing the baby-like cry. At last, coming out into a little clearedspace, we saw something running along the ground towards thespot where we stood concealed. When it came nearer we saw itwas a female nshiego mbouvé, running on all-fours, with a youngone clinging to her breasts. She was eagerly eating some berries,and with one arm supported her little one.Querlaouen, who had the fairest chance, fired, and brought herdown. She dropped without a struggle. The poor little onecried " Hew! hew! hew! " and clung to the dead body, suckingthe breasts, burying its head there in its alarm at the report ofthe gun.We I cannot hurried up in great glee to secure our capture.tell my surprise when I saw that the nshiego baby's face was purewhite-very white indeed-pallid, but as white as a white child's.I looked at the mother, but found her black as soot in the face.The little one was about a foot in height. One of the men threwa cloth over its head and secured it till we could make it fastwith a rope; for, though it was quite young, it could walk. Theold one was of the bald-headed kind, of which I had secured thefirst known specimen some months before.I immediately ordered a return to the camp, which we reachedtowards evening. The little nshiego had been all this time separated from its dead mother, and now, when it was put near herbody, a most touching scene ensued. The little fellow ran instantly to her, but, touching her on the face and breast, saw evi-284 JOKES OF THE NEGROES. CHAP. XVI.dently that some great change had happened. For a few minuteshe caressed her, as though trying to coax her back to life. Thenhe seemed to lose all hope. His little eyes became very sad,and he broke out in a long plaintive wail, " Ooee ooee! ooee! "which made my heart ache for him. He looked quite forlorn,and as though he really felt his forsaken lot. The whole campwas touched at his sorrows, and the women were especially moved.All this time I stood wonderingly staring at the white face ofthe creature. It was really marvellous and quite incomprehensible; and a more strange and weird-looking animal I never saw.While I stood there, up came two of my hunters and began tolaugh at me. "Look, Chelly!" said they, calling me by thename I was known by among them, " look at your friend. Everytime we kill gorilla, you tell us, ' Look at your black friend!'Now, you see, look at your white friend!" Then came a roar atwhat they thought a tremendously good joke."Look! he got straight hair, all same as you. See white faceof your cousin from the bush! He is nearer to you than gorillais to us. "And another roar."Gorilla no got woolly hair like we. This one straight hair,like you. "66 Yes," said I; " but when he gets old his face is black; anddo not you see his nose how flat it is, like yours? "Whereat there was a louder laugh than before. For, so longas he can laugh, the negro cares little against whom the joke goes.I may as well add here some particulars of the little fellowwho excited all this surprise and merriment.months, and became as tame and docile as a cat.Tommy, to which name he soon began to answer.He lived fiveI called himIn three days after his capture he was quite tame He then .ate crackers out of my hand; ate boiled rice and roasted plantain; and drank the milk of a goat. Two weeks after his capturehe was perfectly tamed, and no longer required to be tied up.He ran about the camp, and, when we went back to Obindji'stown, found his way about the village and into the huts just asthough he had been raised there.He had a great affection for me, and used constantly to followme about. When I sat down, he was not content till he hadclimbed upon me and hid his head in my breast. He was ex-CHAP. XVI. THE STORY OF NSHIEGO TOMMY. 285tremely fond of being petted and fondled, and would sit by thehour while anyone stroked his head or back.He soon began to be a very great thief. When the people lefttheir huts he would steal in and make off with their plantains orfish. He watched very carefully till all had left a house, andit was difficult to catch him in the act. I flogged him severaltimes, and, indeed, brought him to the conviction that it waswrong to steal; but he could never resist the temptation.From me he stole constantly. He soon found out that myhut was better furnished with ripe bananas and other fruit thanany others; and also he discovered that the best time to stealfrom me was when I was asleep in the morning. At that timehe used to crawl in on his tiptoes, move slyly towards my bed,look at my closed eyes, and, if he saw no movement, with an airof great relief go up and pluck several plantains. If I stirredin the least he was off like a flash, and would presently re- enterfor another inspection. If my eyes were open when he came inon such a predatory trip, he at once came up to me with anhonest face, and climbed on and caressed me. But I couldeasily detect an occasional wistful glance towards the bunch ofplantains.My hut had no door, but was closed with a mat, and it wasvery funny to see Tommy gently raising one corner of this matto see if I was asleep. Sometimes I counterfeited sleep, andthen stirred just as he was in the act of taking off his prize.Then he would drop everything, and make off in the utmostconsternation.He kept the run of meal-times, and was present at as manymeals as possible; that is, he would go from my breakfast tohalf-a- dozen others, and beg something at each. But he nevermissed my breakfast and dinner, knowing by experience that hefared best there. I had a kind of rude table made, on which mymeals were served in the open part of my house. This was toohigh for Tommy to see the dishes; so he used to come in beforeI sat down, when all was ready, and climb up on the pole whichsupported the roof. From this perch he attentively surveyedevery dish on the table, and, having determined what to have,he would descend and sit down at my side.If I did not immediately pay attention to him he began tohowl, " Hew! hew! hew! " louder and louder, till, for peace'286 TOMMY'S TRICKS. CHAP. XVI.sake, his wants were satisfied. Of course I could not tell whathe had chosen for dinner of my different dishes, and would offerhim first one, then another, till the right one came.If he received what he did not want, he threw it down on the groundwith a little shriek of anger and a stamp of his foot; and thiswas repeated till he was served to his liking. In short, he behaved very much like a badly- spoiled child.If I pleased him quickly, he thanked me by a kind of gentlemurmur, like " Hoohoo, " and would hold out his hand to shakemine. He was very fond of boiled meat—particularly boiledfish, and was constantly picking bones he collected about thetown. He wanted always to taste of my coffee, and whenMakondai brought it, would beg of me, in the most serious manner, for some, and if given without sugar he would not drink it.I made him a little pillow to sleep on, and this he was veryfond of. When he was once accustomed to it he never partedfrom it more, but dragged it after him wherever he went. Ifby any chance it was lost, the whole camp knew it by his howls;and sometimes I had to send people to look for it when he hadmislaid it on some forest excursion, so that he might stop hisnoise. He slept on it always, coiled up into a little heap, andonly relinquished it when I gave him permission to accompanyme into the woods.As he became more and more used to our ways, he grew moreimpatient of contradiction, and more fond of being caressed;and whenever he was thwarted he howled in his disagreeableway. As the dry season came on it became colder, and Tommybegan to wish for company when he slept, to keep him warm.The negroes would not have him for a companion, for he was forthem too much like one of themselves. I would not give himroom near me. So poor Tommy was reduced to misery, as heseemed to think. But soon I found that he waited till everybody was fast asleep at night, and then crawled in softly nextsome of his black friends, and slept there till earliest dawn.Then he would up and away undiscovered. Several times hewas caught and beaten, but he always tried it again.He showed an extraordinary fondness for strong drink. Whenever a negro had palm-wine Tommy was sure to know it. Hehad a decided taste for Scotch ale, of which I had a few bottles,and even begged for brandy. Indeed, his last exploit was with aCHAP. XVI. DEATH OF TOMMY. 287brandy-bottle, which, on going out, I had carelessly left on mychest. The little rascal stole in, and seeing it, and being unableto get out the cork, in some way broke it. When I returned,after some hours' absence, I found my precious bottle -it wasthe last, and to the traveller in this part of Africa brandy is asindispensable as quinine-broken in pieces, and Master Tommycoiled up on the floor by the side of the fragments in a stateof maudlin drunkenness. When he saw me he got up and triedto stagger up to me, but his legs tottered, and he fell downseveral times. His eyes had a glare of human drunkenness;his arms were extended in vain attempts to reach me; his voicecame thick; in fact, he looked disgustingly and yet comicallyhuman. It was the maudlin and sentimental stage of humandrunkenness very well represented. I gave him a severe thrashing, which served to sober the little toper somewhat; but nothingcould cure him of his love for liquor.He had a great deal of intelligence; and if I had had leisureI think I might have trained him to some kind of good behaviour, though I despaired of his thieving disposition. He livedso long, and was growing so accustomed to civilized life, that Ibegan to have great hopes of being able to carry him alive toAmerica. He delighted to eat with the negroes; while theywere seated round the dish he used to dip his hands into itat the same time they did. As the dry season advanced, andthe nights grew cooler, he became exceedingly fond of sittingnear the fire with the men in the evening; and Master Tommyseemed then to enjoy himself wonderfully, and quite as much asany human being. Fromtime to time he looked up into the facesof those round him, as if to say, " Do not drive me away! " andthe very white colour of his face contrasted singularly with theblack heads around him. His eye was intelligent, and when leftto himself his whole countenance had a look of sadness, sometimes painful to behold. Many times I tried to penetrate andread the inward thoughts of this wonderful little creature, whichnot only excited my wonder, but that of the natives. Tommyhad a reputation quite as great as mine throughout the country.But alas! poor Tommy! One morning he refused his food,seemed downcast, and was very anxious to be petted and held in the arms. I got all kinds of forest-berries for him, but he refused all. He did not seem to suffer, but ate nothing; and288 STARVATION. CHAP. XVI.next day, without a struggle, died. Poor fellow! I was verysorry, for he had grown to be quite a pet companion for me;and even the negroes, though he had given them great trouble,were sorry at his death.Eyelids thin and short.covered with short grayThe mother of Thomas was an adult female, aged, to judge byher teeth, which were much worn; but quite black in the faceand hands. She was of the bald-headed variety of the nshiegothe nshiego mbouvé of the Bakalai. Eyebrows thin, and fromhalf to three-quarters of an inch long.Upper and lower lips and chin sparselyhairs. Neck hairy. Thin hair on the cheeks, beginning at thetemples parallel with the upper part of the ear. Ears large.The head entirely bald down to a line drawn from the middlepart of the ears behind; this bald skin was quite black. On theback fine black hair. Rump partly bare, and where bare theskin was quite white. Hair on the chest grayish-black andthin, growing thicker on the abdomen, and grayer on the legs.Height 3 feet 9 inches. This female differed very decidedlyfrom the female of the gorilla or chimpanzee.Tommy turned darker as he grew older, and at his death wasyellow rather than white.To return now to our camp. On the next day, May 15th, we.set out again, in hopes to kill at least a gazelle. It was alreadylate in the afternoon when we saw our first piece of game, abeautiful little monkey, called by the negroes the ndova. Hepoked his white nose out of a bush and chattered at us, andMalaouen, without loss of time, replied with a charge of buckshot, which tumbled him over. With this we were obliged toreturn to camp, having taken no provisions along. Gouambawas very strong in me to-day, and I determined to have soup.made of the monkey, and try it. The animal was very fat; andas hunger stifled my disgust, I made a pretty good meal. Ishared with Quengueza and his wives, who did not touch thenshiego-meat. This made a fat feast for the Bakalai and theslaves, who were exceedingly rejoiced. I could not stomach it;it was too much like cannibalism. Nor have I ever but oncetasted the meat of any of these great apes, though necessitycompelled me, after this, to dine off monkey.My men were now getting short of every kind of provisions,and I was obliged to purchase for them from the villages. TheCHAP. XVI. USE OF NJAVI OIL. 289chief articles brought were some loaves of ndica, a kind of breadmade of the seeds of the wild mango-tree pounded and dried.It does not taste unpleasantly, but I could not live on it. Therewas also a clear yellow oil, which, when cool, had the colour andconsistency of scorched lard, and was called agali njavi (njavioil ) . It is made, with infinite labour, from the seeds of a certaintree which is abundant here, and is one of the finest ornamentsof these forests. They boil the seed, then mash it on a hollowedout board, and then squeeze out the not very abundant oil withtheir hands. It makes a nice-looking oil, which is used to cookmeat in; and thus prepared, meat does not taste badly.They also mix the oil with a kind of odoriferous powder calledyombo, and this mixture is then applied in great quantities upontheir wool. They think it gives out a pleasant fragrance, but inreality it makes an abominable stench.But another use of the oil is really sensible.When the menhave been for some time out in inclement weather, or are dustyor parched with working in the sun, their skin becomes dried up,cracked, and reddish in colour. Then they come home, washoff clean, and oil themselves all over with this soft oil. Thedried-up skin becomes in a little time smooth, and of a shiny,healthy black again. Palm-oil is used elsewhere for this purpose; but the palm-oil tree is very scarce here, and the littleof the oil they have is brought from the Ashira country to theeast, which is now my Promised Land, towards which I daily liftlonging eyes.On the 16th I went out by myself and shot some birds, and,to my great joy, a nchombi, a beautiful gazelle. Now gouambawas put off for some days. The meat was carefully smoked, andthe next day Malaouen retured to the village, and Querlaouencame out to hunt with me. This changed the luck, it seemed,for we had hardly gone an hour's walk from camp when we cameupon a herd of wild pigs, and bagged two.Unfortunately my salt is all used up. I have been able tobuy a little, but it is a very dear article here, as they have to getit from the seashore natives, and the trade is very irregular.On the 18th, as we were hunting, I heard in the far distance what I at first took to be muttering thunder. I hurried on toreach some shelter in an ebony-grove at a distance before thestorm should break, but presently perceived the noise to be U290 THE ROAR OF THE GORILLA. CHAP. XVI.caused by a male gorilla which was roaring to its female; who,after a while, could be heard answering with a weaker roar.The forest fairly shook with the tremendous voice of this animal. The echoes swelled and died away from hill to hill, untilthe whole forest was full of the din.Unluckily I had gone out with my smallest gun loaded withshot to shoot birds. I put in a ball instead of the shot, and determined to follow up the animals. By-and-by I could hearthe deep drum-like sound which the male gorilla causes bybeating his breast with his huge fists. The jungle was quitethick, and our advance slow. Poor Makondai was in a greatfright as we heard the animal, which kept up its terrible roaring, waiting at short intervals to hear the replies of its female.Presently I heard trees cracking, and saw through the woodshow every few minutes a sapling was swung about and thenbroken off. While I was watching these actions I suppose theanimal became aware of the presence of danger, for presently adead silence followed on the loud roars; and when, gun in hand,I broke through the wood, my gorilla was gone.I am sure that I must have heard this gorilla's roar threemiles off, and the noise of beating his breast at least a mile. Nowords can describe the thunderous noise which it produces. *In examining the wood where these gorillas were movingand feeding, I learned, for the first time, the cause of the greatwear there is on the canine teeth of this animal, and especiallyof the male, which I could not before account for, and also sawsome surprising evidences of their strength. Several trees,each of which was from four to six inches in diameter, hadbroken down by these animals; and I found that they hadbit into the heart of these trees and eaten out the pith. Nowthe wood is hard, and by the peculiar form of the gnawing I sawat once that it was by this work that the very singular abrasionof the canines is caused.The Rembo is still deep and rapid as far as we ascended,and the land becomes more mountainous, the hills approachingnearer and nearer to the banks of the river. When we returned,the town was filled with joy at our success on the hunt. Quen-

• I say three miles off, because I was three-quarters of an hour before coming near the beasts .

CHAP. XVI. NEWS FROM HOME. 291gueza made himself sick carousing on four hams which I gavehim from my share of some wild pigs we had shot. The oldfellow has brought all the ebony down-a heavy job, as thepieces weighed from twenty to sixty pounds, and had to becarried on men's shoulders over a very rough and woody country.I ought to mention that on our way up river the peoplepointed out to me a tree which contained a nest, which theysaid belonged to a bird called the guanionian, an immense eagle,according to their description, which preys on monkeys. I couldnot see the bird-nor did I ever see it-though once a bird waspointed out to me as this mysterious eagle; but it was so highin the air that I could not say what it was, and, notwithstanding my great endeavour, I am sorry to say I was unableever to get one.On the 28th of May we started down the river for Obindji'stown. I bade good-bye to all my friends, and distributed presents among them, remembering particularly the women whohad been so kind to me. Our canoes were loaded with ebony;and in the stern of mine was perched, near my shoulder, littleTommy, the nshiego.When we got to Obindji's, I found a man who had come allthe way from Biagano with a package of eight letters and a fileof New York papers, which had been forwarded to me by myfriends the missionaries at the Gaboon. I had now been manymonths in utter ignorance of the doings of the great civilizedworld; and while the letters from friends and home were mosteagerly opened and read, the file of papers lay before me likesome great mystery about to be revealed—a mystery of no verynear personal interest to me, but yet one which I was eager toprobe to such bottom as I could get at. So I sat down to read.The people were much astonished -and so was I at many thingsI read. It was a singular intermingling of two lives. In thebody I was yet in the rude town of poor old Obindji, far enoughfrom civilization to make civilized life seem improbable. Butin the spirit I was walking New York streets, with a friend atmy side revealing to me at every step all that had occurred inthese many months. I am sure no papers were ever morethoroughly read than these; even the advertisem*nts had adelightful novelty to me. Happily the 29th was Sunday, andI took my ease with my papers all day.U 2292 GENERAL SCARCITY OF FOOD. CHAP. XVI.On the 30th we started with one hundred men up the Ofoubou,the river which joins the Rembo just above Obindji, for a Bakalaitown called Njali- Coudié, the chief of which was a friend ofQuengueza's, who had sent to promise me some gorilla-hunts ifI would come to see him.The Ofoubou is a smaller river than the Rembo, but at present had overflowed its banks, and spread its waters over the stripof lowland which bordered it and separated it from the hills.Njali-Coudié lies about ten miles from the river among the hills.After pulling up the stream for about five miles, we came tothe landing-place, whence we had to strike inland. Here wefound a swamp, having from two to two and a-half feet waterupon it, through which we had to wade, over clayey, slipperyground, for nearly a mile. This mile lasted an hour. Then wecame to high and dry ground, and travelled onward till atthree o'clock we reached the town, where we were received witha hearty welcome.We had left Obindji's without a morsel of breakfast even; andas I had not broken my fast since the previous evening, I wasnot sorry when Mbango, the chief, sent me a goat and somebunches of plantains, of which, when cooked, I made a verysatisfying meal.Obindji's town was nearly at the starvation-point. The poorfellows had been very generous to us while they had food togive; but now was the time of general scarcity, when the lastcrop was eaten up, and the coming crop was not yet ready.They were actually living on the poor roots they could gather inthe woods. In Mbango's town they were a little better off; but,even here, our advent soon created a famine. The staples ofthis country are plantains and manioc. New plantains, even ifplucked green, will soon ripen and rot. They do not know howto dry and preserve them. Manioc may be dried, and thusmade to last two months at farthest; but long before that it ispoor eating. Of course, there are periods every year when theseperishable provisions are eaten up, and when even a prudenttown suffers for want of food; for fish are not very plentifulhere, and as for game, they are not very good hunters, and evenI found it a poor game country. Often I wished for a few earsof Indian corn to establish a new order of things among thesepoor people, but corn is not grown at all in these parts of theCHAP. XVI. SURPRISE AT MY APPEARANCE. 293interior, and on the seashore they do not use it much as anarticle of food.Mbango had been notified of our coming, and had built for mea very neat, commodious bark house, with a clay floor poundedhard, and all very clean and comfortable. The village itself isone of the neatest I have seen among the Bakalai. When Ihad eaten my dinner, the people came in crowds to see me. Myhair was, as usual, the most singular part of my person to them.A considerable number of female strangers were in the town tocelebrate the feast of Njambai, one of their spirits; and thesecould not look at me or wonder at my appearance enough.There was such a crowd, indeed, that next day food began togrow scarce, and I had to send Makondai over, with thirty menand some articles of barter to buy some plantains. In buying food, beads are the best trade. The women cultivate theground and sell the surplus products, and they prefer beadsabove everything else. The women in all this country seem tohave a good deal of privilege in this way. They are expectedto feed their husbands; and Quengueza frequently tells hiswives to feed him well and take good care of him, because hetreats them well. But what is left or not needed of the fruitsthus raised the men have no right to. The women sell andkeep for themselves the articles received. Makondai returnednext day with forty-five bunches of plantains and two fowls-avery good supply for the time.Meantime the feast went on, and gave me a sleepless night,as no African feast or ceremony is complete without shouting,singing, drumming, and dancing, and playing on such a harp asis shown in the picture overleaf. Mbango, it appears, is the heador chief of his clan or family, which includes half-a-dozen townswithin thirty miles around. As chief, Mbango keeps the idol ofthe clan, and all come hither at regular periods to sing songs ofinvocation to it. It is a female figure, of wood, nearly life-size,and with cloven feet like those of a deer. Her eyes were ofcopper; one cheek was painted red, and the other yellow.About her neck hung a necklace of tigers' teeth. She is said tohave great power, and the people believe that on certain occasions she nods her head. She is said to talk frequently-asmight, indeed, be expected. She is very highly venerated bythe people.I told Mbango that the noise near my house disturbed my294 NEGRO WORSHIP. CHAP. XVI.sleep, and the good fellow ordered his people to celebrate a littlefarther away. On the 30th and 31st, however, there was a deadsilence and a great darkness. No light was allowed but my own.The mbuiti (idol) was set out in the middle of the street, andthe people stood all around her. She is said to have bowed,walked about, and spoken to some one, expressing her pleasureHarp of the Bakalai . The strings are made out of the dried root of a species of tree.

at two gazelles which had been offered her the night before.

She ate some of the meat- -so I was assured-and left the restfor the people.On the 2nd (June) the women began their peculiar worship ofNjambai, which, it seems, is their good spirit; and it is remarkable that all the Bakalai clans, and all the females of tribes Ihave met during my journeys, worship or venerate a spirit withthis same name. Near the seashore it is pronounced Njembai,but it is evidently the same.This worship of the women is a kind of mystery—no menbeing admitted to the ceremonies, which are carried on in ahouse very carefully closed. This house was covered with drypalm and banana leaves, and had not even a door open to thestreet. To make all close it was set against two other houses,and the entrance was through one of these. Quengueza andMbango warned me not to go near this place, as not even theywere permitted so much as to take a look. All the women ofCHAP. XVI. SPYING OUT A MYSTERY. 295the village painted their faces and bodies, beat drums, marchedabout the town, and from time to time entered the idol-house,where they danced all one night, and made a more outrageousnoise than even the men had made before. They also presentedseveral antelopes to the goddess, and, on the 4th, all but a fewwent off into the woods to sing to Njambai.I noticed that half-a-dozen remained, and in the course of themorning entered the Njambai-house, where they stayed in greatsilence. Now my curiosity, which had been greatly excited toknow what took place in this secret worship, finally overcameme. I determined to see. Walking several times up and downthe street past the house to allay suspicion, I at last suddenlypushed aside some of the leaves, and stuck my head through thewall. For a moment I could distinguish nothing in the darkness. Then I beheld three perfectly naked old hags sitting onthe clay floor, with an immense bundle of greegrees beforethem, which they seemed to be silently adoring.When they saw me they at once set up a hideous howl ofrage, and rushed out to call their companions from the bush.In a few minutes these came running in, crying and lamenting;rushing towards me with gestures of anger, and threatening mefor my offence. I quickly reached my house, and, seizing mygun in one hand and a revolver in the other, told them I wouldshoot the first one that came inside my door. The house wassurrounded by above three hundred infuriated women, every oneshouting out curses at me; but the sight of my revolver keptthem back. They adjourned presently for the Njambai-house,and from there sent a deputation to the men, who were to inform me that I must pay for the " palaver " I had made.This I peremptorily refused to do; telling Quengueza andMbango that I was their stranger, and must be allowed to do asI pleased, as their rules were nothing to me who was a whiteman and did not believe in their idols. In truth, if I had oncepaid for such a transgression as this, there would have been anend of all travelling for me, as I often broke through theirabsurd rules without knowing it, and my only course was todeclare myself irresponsible.However, the women would not give up, but threatened vengeance not only on me, but on all the men of the town; and asI as positively refused to pay anything, it was at last, to mygreat surprise, determined by Mbango and his male subjects296 A PALAVER SETTLED. CHAP. XVI.that they would make up from their own possessions such asacrifice as the women demanded of me. Accordingly Mbangocontributed ten fathoms of native cloth, and the men came oneby one and put their offerings on the ground-some plates, someknives, some mugs, some beads, some mats, and various otherarticles. Mbango came again, and asked if I, too, would notcontribute something; but I refused. In fact, I dared not setsuch a precedent. So when all had given what they could, thewhole amount was taken to the ireful women, to whom Mbangosaid that I was his and his men's guest, and that they could notask me to pay in such a matter, therefore they paid the demandthemselves. With this the women were satisfied, and there thequarrel ended. Of course I could not make any further investigations into their mysteries. The Njambai feast lasts abouttwo weeks. I could learn very little about the spirit which theycall by this name. Their own ideas are quite vague. Theyknow only that it protects the women against their male enemies, avenges their wrongs, and serves them in various ways ifthey please it.On the 6th I went out to see the mbando, or olako, of Igoumba,the Ashira chief of whom I made mention at Goumbi. It liesabout ten miles east from Mbango's town, and the people wereengaged in cutting ebony, which was to be given to Quengueza.The camp was placed in a very beautiful spot, a half- clearing onthe hill-side, not far from where the Niama Bembai falls downthrough the hills by several pretty cascades. This is a verypretty stream, which has its rise eastward in the Ashira country,and flows into the Ofoubou. Its bed is gravelly, and its watersclear and purling like some northern brook. Here it affordsplenty of water-power, waiting for factories.On the way I killed a beautiful bird, the Apoloderma narina,the size of the common dove, but with a splendid crimson breast,golden green on the back, and wings coloured a fine pearl gray.Also one of the men shot a young T. calvus, female. It wastwo feet eleven inches high, and was of a curious mulatto- colour.The next day, 7th, we went on a gorilla-hunt. All the olakowas busy on the evening of my arrival with preparations; and,as meat was scarce, everybody had joyful anticipations of hungersatisfied and plenty in the camp. Little did we guess whatfrightful death was to befall one of our number before the nextsunset.

Swailney!LHUNTER KILLED GORILLA BYA.CHAP. XVI. MAN KILLED BY A GORILLA. 297I gave powder to the whole party. Six were to go off in onedirection for gazelles and whatever luck might send them;and six others, of whom I was one, were to hunt for gorillas.We set off towards a dark valley, where Gambo, Igoumba's son,said we should find our prey. The gorilla chooses the darkest,gloomiest forests for its home, and is found on the edges of theclearings only when in search of plantains, or sugarcane, orpineapple. Often they choose for their peculiar haunt awood so dark that, even at midday, one can scarce see ten yards.This makes it the more necessary to wait till the monstrousbeast approaches near before shooting, in order that the firstshot may be fatal. It does not often let the hunter reload.Our little party separated, as is the custom, to stalk the woodin various directions. Gambo and I kept together. One bravefellow went off alone in a direction where he thought he couldfind a gorilla. The other three took another course. We hadbeen about an hour separated when Gambo and I heard a gunfired but a little way from us, and presently another. We werealready on our way to the spot where we hoped to see a gorillaslain, when the forest began to resound with the most terrificGambo seized my arms in great agitation, and we hurriedon, both filled with a dreadful and sickening alarm. We hadnot gone far when our worst fears were realised. The poorbrave fellow who had gone off alone was lying on the ground ina pool of his own blood, and I thought, at first, quite dead.bowels were protruding through the lacerated abdomen. Besidehim lay his gun. The stock was broken, and the barrel wasbent and flattened. It bore plainly the marks of the gorilla'steeth.roars.HisWe picked him up, and I dressed his wounds as well as Icould with rags torn from my clothes. When I had given hima little brandy to drink he came to himself, and was able, butwith great difficulty, to speak. He said that he had met thegorilla suddenly and face to face, and that it had not attemptedto escape. It was, he said, a huge male, and seemed verysavage. It was in a very gloomy part of the wood, and thedarkness, I suppose, made him miss. He said he took goodaim, and fired when the beast was only about eight yards off.The ball merely wounded it in the side. It at once began beating its breasts, and with the greatest rage advanced upon him.298 GORILLA- HUNTERS. CHAP, XVI.To run away was impossible. He would have been caught inthe jungle before he had gone a dozen steps.He stood his ground, and as quickly as he could reloaded hisgun. Just as he raised it to fire the gorilla dashed it out of hishands, the gun going off in the fall; and then in an instant, andwith a terrible roar, the animal gave him a tremendous blow withits immense open paw, frightfully lacerating the abdomen, andwith this single blow laying bare part of the intestines. As hesank, bleeding, to the ground, the monster seized the gun, andthe poor hunter thought he would have his brains dashed outwith it. But the gorilla seemed to have looked upon this alsoas an enemy, and in his rage almost flattened the barrel betweenhis strong jaws.When we came upon the ground the gorilla was gone. Thisis their mode when attacked-to strike one or two blows, andthen leave the victims of their rage on the ground and go offinto the woods.We hunted up our companions and carried our poor fellow tothe camp, where all was instantly excitement and sorrow. Theyentreated me to give him medicine, but I had nothing to suit hiscase. I saw that his days were numbered; and all I could dowas to make him easy by giving him a little brandy or wine atintervals. He had to tell the whole story over again; and thepeople declared at once that this was no true gorilla that hadattacked him, but a man—a wicked man turned into a gorilla.Such a being no man could escape, they said; and it could notbe killed, even by the bravest hunters. This principle offatalism and of transmigration of souls is brought in by them inall such cases, I think, chiefly to keep up the courage of theirhunters, on whom such a mischance exercises a very depressinginfluence. The hunters are the most valued men in these negrovillages. A brave and fortunate one is admired by all thewomen; loved-almost worshipped-by his wives; and enjoysmany privileges among his fellow-villagers. But his proudesttime is when he has killed an elephant or a gorilla and filled thevillage with meat. Then he may do almost what he pleases.The next day we shot a monster gorilla, which I suppose is thesame one that killed my poor hunter, for male gorillas are notvery plentiful.June 11th. Yesterday I had a very severe chill , but was ableCHAP. XVI. ANIMAL LIFE IN THE DRY SEASON. 299to check it with quinine, fortunately. The dry season has nowdefinitely set in here, and the days are cloudy and the nightssomewhat cool. We are no longer obliged to build shelterswhen sleeping out in the woods; and can hunt all day withoutbeing wet through as formerly—all which gives me a good dealof comfort.The poor fellow who was hurt by the gorilla died on the 9th;and some men went out on the 10th and shot a large gorilla,whose remains were brought into camp with great rejoicings ontheir parts, but great rage on mine. My hunters had seen meskin gorillas and other animals so often that they thought theycould do this for me, and, wanting the meat of this one, theytook off the hide. So far so good; but the fellows did not knowwhat a value I placed upon the bones, and, to save themselvestime and labour, they broke the bones of the legs and of thepelvis. Thus a fine specimen was spoiled for me, or at leastmade incomplete. I scolded them so that they ran away intothe woods, as they said, to get out of hearing of my tongue.This gorilla was an adult male, and measured five feet seveninches in height.With the dry season, which has now regularly set in, variousmigratory birds return from their wanderings, and enliven theforests and rivers, which are inhabited by other species duringthe rainy season. All nature has brightened up, and the longdreary forest is alive with the chatter and song of birds. Thespurred quail (Peliperdrix Lathami), with its pretty spottedbreast, I met at every turn in the wood. The splendid Numidaplumifera is more abundant; great numbers of kingfishersoccupy the logs and overhanging branches on the rivers, watchingfor prey; and doves are cooing to each other all day long. Inthe little purling streams in the hill country a beautiful littleotter has made his appearance, and watches, beneath rocks andin dark pools, for passing fish; while on the Ofoubou and theRembo a large otter, with fine brown fur, plunges into the wateralmost before one can get even a sight of him. Several varietiesof swallows twitter and skip over the water, and one flies, like thelark, so high that it can scarce be distinguished. Parrots, ofvaried colours and size, are screaming and chattering all day inthe open woods. One in particular, the gray parrot, flies inflocks of hundreds together, and makes the whole wood alive300 VENOMOUS FLIES. CHAP. XVI.with its screams. These birds build their nests in hollow trees,and are very sociable in their nature.Until the 1st of July we moved at random almost about thecountry between Mbango's town and the Rembo. Game is notat all plentiful, and we suffered occasionally from gouamba, I particularly, who do not like the meat of either the elephant or thecrocodile -on which, nevertheless, I had to live by turns for aweek at a time. The meat of the elephant is very tough andstringy. The natives smoke it, which makes it tougher still, andwe had sometimes to boil it two days before it was masticable.It tastes rank and coarse, and has not a bit of the delicate flavourof hippopotamus-meat. As for the flesh of the crocodile, nothingbut hunger could make me eat it; but necessity of that kindknows no law. It is really very white, and also tender; and thenegroes think it delicious. But I could never conquer mydisgust; and it seemed to me, besides, tasteless and dry.This upper country has few musquitoes, but, in their stead,several varieties of flies, which are exceedingly troublesome.The igoogouai is a small, almost imperceptible gnat, whichappears in great numbers in the morning, until ten o'clock, fromwhich time it is seen no more till four, when its operations arerecommenced, and last till sunset. These little flies are mostdetermined bloodsuckers, very sly in their approaches, butleaving behind them a bite which itches terribly and for a considerable time. Small as they are, even the thick hides of thenegroes are punctured by them. In hunting they are verytroublesome, and often made mymen so nervous that they couldhit nothing.Another is the ibolai, an insect twice as large as our commonhouse-fly. It approaches you with a sharp whistle, and its stingis long and strong enough to pierce the thickest clothes one canwear in the heat of an African summer. The sting is so sharpthat I have often jumped up with the sudden pain, which was asif a pin had been stuck savagely into my person. But the biteof this insect, if painful, does not last, like that of another of thesame size, which is called the nchouna. This animal makes nonoise to warn you of its approach, and inserts its bill so gentlythat often it gets its fill of blood before you know you are bitten.Presently, however, the itching begins, and lasts for severalhours, varied, at intervals, by sudden sharp stabs of pain, asCHAP. XVI. THE ELOWAY. 301though a scorpion had bitten you. Often this lasts the wholeday. These last-named animals are found mostly on the rivers.The iboco, another fly, is the size of a hornet, and very quickin its motions. Its bite is the most severe of all, and clothing isno protection from them. Often the blood has run down myface or arm from one of their savage attacks, and even the welltanned skin of the negroes is punctured till it bleeds, so that onewould think a leech had been at his work on them.But most dreadful of all is the eloway, a nest-building fly (? wasp)which frequents the water- side , where its clay hives are hung to thependent branches of trees. This fly is really a monster of ferocity, and the natives run from it as they do from no other animalor insect of these woods. The eloway is a little fly, shaped muchlike a bee, but not quite so big. The body is longer in proportion than that of a bee. Their hives are made of clay, and evidently have separate apartments, as the whole pendent bottleshaped mass is filled with holes, each of which has a little roofover it. They generally choose a branch which is full of leavesfor their nago or nest, and thus are hidden from view. The clayof the nest is so hard that even a bullet fired from a reasonabledistance made no impression upon it, as I found by several trials.The hives seem to be very full; when disturbed I have seen themissuing in large swarms, and several from each hole.When troubled they are very savage, and attack with a kindof blind rage. Sometimes when paddling down the Rembo acanoe accidentally strikes against a tree containing an elowaynago. Instantly they fall ferociously upon the men. Thenatives always dive into the water and swim under water for alittle distance; but I noticed that if one of these venomouslittle insects had settled on a man, he clung to him even in thewater, and had literally to be picked off. In such cases I alwayscovered myself up with matting and lay still till they retired.Happily, they do not pursue far; and when the enemy is out oftheir sight they return quietly to their nests.Their bite is exceedingly painful, and they leave in the woundan acrid poison, which pains for two or three days. At intervalsof an hour the poison seems to gather fresh force, the woundbegins to throb, and for a little while is excessively painful.The natives fear these eloways very much, and retreat with allexpedition when they have accidentally disturbed a nest. When302 SNAKES. CHAP. XVI.they see a nest, also, they always paddle to the opposite side ofthe stream. Going nearly naked, they are very much exposedto its attacks; and its motions are so very quick that even aspeedy tumble overboard does not generally save them from oneor two bites.Of snakes all this back country has a great abundance. A feware harmless; some of the large species attack the larger beastsand crush them in their folds; or, if smaller, they have poisonfangs. It is curious that the negroes have no vegetable or otherremedy for a snake-bite; but they are not often bitten. Thesnakes are easily alarmed, and the noise of an approachinghunter scares them out of his path. Sometimes they hang fromthe limbs of trees, waiting, probably, for prey to pass beneath,and several times such a pendent animal has given me a frightby falling down beside me as I stood under a tree. But theynever attack man, so far as I have seen. I saw and killed onseveral occasions pythons measuring from 20 to 25 feet; but thelargest I ever saw had been killed by a party of natives, andwas just skinned as I came up. This was on the Rembo. Theskin measured a little over 33 feet in length.The smaller snakes feed on birds, and squirrels, and rats, whichI am convinced, from frequent observation, they are able tocharm with their look. This power of charming I had alwaysdoubted, but was convinced by one day watching a venomousblack snake, over four feet long, subduing and catching asquirrel which sat on the lower branch of a tree. It was in therear of Obindji's town. I had gone out to shoot birds, and myattention was attracted by the very peculiar and continuedchattering of a squirrel. When I saw it I did not know what tomake of its movements. It seemed as though tied to its branchand very anxious to get away. Its head was thrust forward, itseyes fixed and glaring; but its body trembled, and was jerkedabout from side to side. All the time it was screaming andchattering in a really pitiable manner. Following the directionof its glance I saw the cause of its alarm. The black snake wasslowly creeping out on the limb, and as steadily kept his eyes onhis victim. The whole curious process went on under my inspection for at least ten or twelve minutes, during all whichtime the snake seemed to fix the gaze of the squirrel uponitself. The squirrel came nearer and nearer, until it reached1CHAP. XVI. USEFULNESS OF SNAKES - FEVER. 303the mouth of the snake, which made a spring, grasped its preyin its mouth, and quickly coiled its folds about it.I have seen many such cases of charming, both of birds andsquirrels; and sometimes firing my gun dissolved the charm, bydiverting momentarily the gaze of the snake.Though snakes are dangerous animals, their presence is a greatblessing to the country. They destroy great numbers of ratsand mice, and other of the smaller quadrupeds which injure thenative provisions; and it is but just to say, that while they sometimes frequent houses, and are fond of creeping over the roofs oralong the hollow bamboos of the sides of the native huts, theyare peacefully inclined, and never attack man unless trodden on.They are glad enough to get out of the way; and the mostfeared snake I saw in Africa (the Echidna nasicornis) was onewhich is very slow in its movements, from which cause it happensthat it oftener bites people than others, being unable to get outof the way quickly. Though serpents abound in all parts of thecountry, I have travelled a month at a time without seeing one,probably on account of the bushy character of the country.The country near the river, though hilly, is not entirely healthyfor whites. I have had several attacks of fever, owing to the retiring water leaving the muddy soil bare and damp, but all wereslight; and I suppose if a man came up here and lived carefullyhe would be quite safe. I sleep often in the forest, and am forcedto be as reckless of health as a man can be; and I do not expectto escape fever if there is any in the country. The natives aregenerally tolerably healthy. I have seen cases of what I judgeto be leprosy, but they have little fever among them, or otherdangerous diseases .Gambo and I have been hunting for a week after anothergorilla. The natives said that a monstrous animal had beenseveral times seen in the forest some ten miles to the east, andit was just such a one I needed to make my series complete.Therefore I determined to get him. On June 10th we were atlast lucky enough to find him. We had been on the hunt forseveral hours, when we came upon tolerably fresh tracks of ananimal which I saw must be a very large one. These tracks wefollowed cautiously, and at last, in a densely wooded and quitedark ravine we came suddenly upon the beast. There were twogorillas, a male and female. Owing to the dense jungle, in a304 A LARGE GORILLA KILLED. CHAP. XVI.nook of which they were concealed, they saw us first. Thefemale uttered a cry of alarm, and ran off before we could get ashot at her, being lost to sight in a moment in the bush. Themale, however, whom I particularly wanted, had no idea ofrunning off. He rose slowly from his haunches and at oncefaced us, uttering a roar of rage at our evidently untimely intrusion. Gambo and I were accompanied only by a single hunterand an Ashira boy, who bore an extra gun. The boy fell back,and we stood side by side and awaited the advance of thehideous monster. In the dim half- light of the ravine, hisfeatures working with rage, his gloomy, treacherous, mischievousgray eyes, his rapidly-agitated, and frightful, satyr-like featureshad a horrid look, enough to make one fancy him really aspirit of the damned.He advanced upon us by starts, as is their fashion, pausing tobeat his fists upon his vast breast, which gave out a dull, hollowsound like some great bass-drum with a skin of ox-hide. Thenhe roared, making the forest ring with his short bark and therefrain, which is singularly like the loud muttering of thunder.We stood at our posts for at least three long minutes, guns inhand, before the great beast was near enough for a safe shot. Inthis time I could not help thinking of the misfortune of my poorhunter but a few days ago; and, as I looked at the gorilla beforeus, I could fancy the horror of the situation when, with emptygun, the poor fellow stood before his remorseless enemy, whocame upon him, not with a sudden spring like the leopard, butwith a slow, vindictive certainty which is like fate.At last he stood before us at a distance of six yards. Oncemore he paused, and, raising his head, began to roar and beat hisbreast. Just as he took another step towards us we fired, anddown he tumbled, almost at our feet, upon his face, dead.I saw at once that we had the very animal I wanted. It isthe oldest of all my collection, and very near the largest I everGambo, who, though a young man, was still an old hunter,said a few were larger, but not many. Its height was five feetnine inches, measured to the tip of the toes. Its arms spreadnine feet. Its chest had a circumference of sixty-two inches.The hands, those terrible claw-like weapons, with one blow ofwhich it tears out the bowels of a man or breaks his arms, wereof immense muscular power, and bent like veritable claws. Isaw.CHAP. XVI. NATIVES' DREAD OF THE ELOWAY. 305could see how frightful a blow could be struck with such a hand,moved by such an arm, all swollen into great bunches of muscularfibre, as this animal possessed. The big toe was no less thansix inches in circumference.As we brought it into the olako, three women, who werepregnant, hastened out at the other end with their husbands,and nothing could induce them to return till the skin was driedand put away. They could not be convinced but that, if eventhe husband saw the beast, the wife would bear a young gorilla.The people were very glad of the meat; and I was wishing Icould eat it as they do-for I had no meat, and felt gouamba alittle -when old Querlaouen sent me half a gazelle he hadkilled, which placed me beyond need for the present.On the 13th of July we started for Obindji's town, on myreturn. Going down the Ofoubou, a canoe of Bakalai, strangeto the river, were a little before us. Suddenly we saw themstop paddling and pitch headlong out of the canoe. My mensaid they had disturbed a nest of eloway, which we found afterwards to be the truth. Our canoe was immediately shot upstream for a quarter of a mile, and we waited an hour beforethe crew would venture past the dreaded eloway's nest; such istheir fear of this revengeful little fly. Even then they werevery careful to paddle quite over to the farther bank of the river.The Rembo has lost a good deal of its waters since I was hereon my way up. It has fallen from twelve to fifteen feet, but isyet deep enough for navigation. The numerous aquatic birdsand waders which come in with the dry season now give theriver a lively, pleasant air. The white sand which lines theshores is clean and bright, and with the cool mornings, whichare sometimes foggy, and the bright green of the well-woodedbanks, the traveller has a charming scene before him. Thestream is still yellow, but is much clearer than it was a monthago. Then the rains were driving down a turbulent tide, ladenwith mud; now the clear waters roll on placidly, as though allwas peace and civilization at their borders.' The country about here is probably the richest field for anenterprising naturalist now remaining in the world. EquatorialAfrica seems to have a fauna of its own. The lion, common bothto North and South Africa, is not found here at all. Neitherare the zebra, gnu, giraffe, rhinoceros, or ostrich, and the great X306 THE FAUNA OF THE REMBO REGION. CHAP. XVI.number of antelopes so common in other parts of the continent,known here. There are no tame cattle, no horses, no donkeys;in fact, the only domesticated animals are goats and fowls, and aspecies of sheep. I do not think the Bos brachicheros, the wildbull of this country, could be tamed. It is found here, but notin such herds as roam on the Cape Lopez prairies. Several kindsof gazelles offer sport to the hunter-naturalist; and I saw severalspecimens of a very beautiful antelope hitherto unknown, whichmay be considered by far the handsomest antelope yet discovered in Africa. This animal, of which I am enabled to givean excellent representation, drawn from a well-preserved specimen in my collection, is rare, and very shy; swift of foot, as areall its kind, and exceedingly graceful in its motions, thoughmore heavily built than most of the antelope kind. Among thecarnivora, the leopard takes the first rank. It is a very largeand majestic animal here. I have killed several over five feetlong. There is also a hyena, whose raids among the goats areoften troublesome; and several varieties of tiger-cats, of whichthe Genetta Aubryana and Fieldiana are of the finest species yetknown. The crocodile is found in the swamps and lagoonswhich border the Rembo; the iguana occurs in the woods;while of monkeys there were a dozen new varieties; of squirrelsupwards of half-a-dozen; and of rats several, the chief of whichwas fifteen inches long. Most of these are peculiar to this partof the continent, and are unknown to the north and south.Among the most peculiar of the monkeys is the little oshingui,one of the smallest of the whole monkey tribe. It is a frolicsomeand innocent little animal, and remarkable for its fondness for thewater; so that where you meet one of them hopping about thebranches overhead, you may be sure water is not far off. Theyalways sleep on some tree whose branches overhang a watercourse. This little monkey is also a great favourite with themonkey-birds (Buceros albocrystatus), which I often saw playingwith it.Of birds, the most remarkable which I shot in this region wasthe " nchalitoguay "—so called by the negroes. It resemblessomewhat the Asiatic bird Muscipeta paradisi, and is one of themost graceful and lovely birds I ever saw. Its back, tail-cover,and very long flowing tail are pure milk-white; its crested headand breast are greenish-black, and abdomen an ashy-brown. TheTHE BONGO ANTELOPE.(Trogelaphus albo- virgatus. )General colour, bright orange, with a chestnut patch between the horns and eyes, below whichis a white crescent, having in the middle a dark brown stripe; but the chief features ofthe animal are the stripes on each side.

CHAP. XVI. RETURN TO BIAGANO. 307white feathers of the back seem to form a fine mantle, and givethe bird a very singular appearance. This little bird has beennamed after myself, the Muscipeta du Chaillui.At last, on the 2nd of August, I began to make preparationsfor a return to Biagano. It was high time. I was still sufferingfrom fever attacks, and had not quinine enough left for one largedose, which might have put a stop to it. Solution of arsenic Idid not like to take much of. As a febrifuge, it must be carefully used, and not very often, or it leaves its effects on thesystem.Not only was I sick, but also poor and ragged. My clotheswere torn and patched, and I looked, in reality, very little betteror more civilized than my negro friends. Food was scarce; andthough my friends and hunters, Querlaouen, Obindji, and others,gave me what they had, it was robbing them, I felt; and eventhen I did not get such food as I began to need. My goods, too,were all gone, so that even if I had been well I could not havegone farther into the interior. But the numerous hardships ofthis long trip, the sleeping night after night in wet clothes, thetramping through rain and hot sun, the sufferings from theintolerable gouamba, and the yet less tolerable total starvationall these had done their work upon me, and I began to feel thewant of a long and thorough repose. So I told Quengueza wemust go.Obindji was very sorry. I believe he and many of the others,particularly Querlaouen and his fellow-hunters, had conceived areal affection for me. They gave me of their poor store withoutever asking for a return, and took all pains to please me andmake me comfortable, even when they saw that my goods weregetting very low. And I must own that I had a kind of affectionfor a country where, in the discovery of new and strange animals,I had enjoyed one of the greatest pleasures possible to man.The rough life was forgotten when I looked at my precious collections; and the thought of a gorilla even now enabled me toshake off the fever.I need not say that the faithfulness of the poor nativestouched me nearly. Not one but had treated me as though Iwas his own brother; and I should have been a brute had I notheartily returned all their affection.My little boys, Makondai and Monguilomba, who had acted sox 2308 THE SUPERSTITION OF ROONDAH. CHAP. XVI.bravely during all these months, were overjoyed when they sawmy preparations for returning to the seashore. Quengueza, too,was tired of bush- life, as he called it-calling these Bakalai hisbushmen. He is to go down to Biagano with me, where I canreward him for all his kindness and faithfulness to me. He haddone royally for me in everything. Every fowl or goat he gotas a present up here he gave me; I, in return, hunting for him.We always ate together at a table which I had made, and whichwas covered, when we were in town, always with a clean whitecloth. I was anxious to show these people the difference betweencivilized and savage life, and this was one of the points most aptto strike them; for, like all rude people and little children, theyare very observant of small things.This day I had a glimpse at another curious superstition ofthese people. One of the hunters had shot a wild bull, andwhen the carcass was brought in the good fellow sent me anabundant supply of the best portions. The meat is tough, butwas most welcome for a change. I had a great piece boiled fordinner, and expected Quengueza to eat as much as would makeseveral hungry white men sick. Judge of my surprise, when,coming to the table and seeing only the meat, he refused totouch it.I asked why?66 It is roondah for me," he replied. And then, in answer tomy question, explained that the meat of the Bos brachicheroswas forbidden to his family, and was an abomination to them,for the reason that many generations ago one of their womengave birth to a calf instead of a child.I laughed; but the king replied very soberly that he couldshow me a woman of another family whose grandmother hadgiven birth to a crocodile-for which reason the crocodile wasroondah to that family.Quengueza would never touch my salt-beef, nor even thepork, fearing lest it had been in contact with the beef. Indeedthey are all religiously scrupulous in this matter; and I found,on inquiry afterwards, that scarce a man can be found to whomsome article of food is not " roondah." Some dare not tastecrocodile, some hippopotamus, some monkey, some boa, somewild pig, and all from this same belief. They will literallysuffer the pangs of starvation rather than break through thisCHAP. XVI. GOOD-BYE TO QUERLAOUEN . 309prejudice; and they very firmly believe that if one of a familyshould eat of such forbidden food, the women of the same familywould surely miscarry and give birth to monstrosities in theshape of the animal which is roondah, or else die of an awfuldisease.Sometimes I find that the fetich-man forbids an individual totouch certain kinds of food for some reason, or no reason rather.In this case the prohibition extends only to the man, and not tohis family.It is astonishing how strictly such gross feeders as they areadhere to their scruples. It shows the power a superstitiousfaith has even over a lawless people as these are. I am certainnothing in the world would have induced the old king to eat theflesh of the wild bull, or even to eat out of a dish in which thathad been cooked or otherwise contained.As we were preparing to go, my Bakalai friends came in withpresents of provisions. Baskets of cassava, smoked boar-hams,sweet potatoes, and manioc are brought as freewill offerings, forthey know I have little to give in return.At last, on the evening of the 6th, I gave Obindji a present Ihad reserved for him, and which he well deserved, and on thefollowing day we started in the canoes for Goumbi. All thechief people came to the shore to shake hands and say good-bye.All said I must come again and bring trade. Also, they said,I had spoken to them of white men coming to teach poor blackpeople; and they would like to have some such teachers. Theyall had a look of regret at our parting, and nearly every onecame with some little parting gift. I was very much touchedmyself at their simple affectionate ways.When all was ready for a start Makondai fired a gun, andthen I swung out the American flag to the breeze, the first timethat it or any other flag of a civilized nation had floated overthese waters. The people shouted, and we were off.Presently, several miles down stream, we passed Querlaouen'splantation. He and his kind old wife and their children stoodon the shore and beckoned me to stop. We paddled in, and thegood fellow silently put into my boat another smoked boar-ham,while his wife gave me a great basket of sweet potatoes. As westarted away again the wife shouted, " When you come back,bring me some beads. " The children cried out, " When you310 SICKNESS -RETURN TO THE GABOON. CHAP. XVI.come back, bring us some cloth. " But old Querlaouen stood stilland silent like a black statue, until, by a turn of the river, hewas lost to our sight.On the next day we made a triumphant entry into Goumbi,where we remained two days to lay in provisions.From Goumbi to Biagano our voyage was a triumphal procession. Quengueza accompanied me to show to Ranpano thathe brought me back safe; and all of Goumbi that had canoesaccompanied Quengueza for fun's sake, beating tam-tams, singing songs, and firing guns.At last, on the 13th of August, I got back to Biagano, wherethe whole population turned out to receive me, headed by Ranpano and old Rinkimongami, my housekeeper. I found my houseundisturbed, and my live-stock on hand and in good condition,and made old Rinkimongami very proud by expressing mysatisfaction. He said, " Now you tell me what I stole? " AndRanpano exclaimed, " Ah! we don't steal from our white man. "And now came the time when I was to pay for my long tour.It is quite usual for natives of the interior coming to the seashore to be seized with fever. It is a great change, and I expected to be affected by it in some measure.Nor were myexpectations ungrounded. Day after day my fever attacks grewworse, until, having no proper medicines, and living necessarilyhere without many of the comforts a sick man needs, I was quiteprostrated. Then, luckily, one day came by a vessel. Some ofmy men boarded her with a note to the captain. He was goingto the Gaboon, and I gladly accompanied him. There, underthe kind care of my missionary friends, I managed, in a shorttime, to recover my health sufficiently to think of another trip,in which I hoped to make a thorough geographical explorationof the farther interior.CHAP. XVII. THE BASHIKOUAY ANT. 311CHAPTER XVII.The Ants of Equatorial Africa -The Bashikouay -The Red Ant - TheNchellelay — The Little Ant - The Red Leaf-ant - The Nest-building Ant.In the forests of this part of Africa are found vast numbers ofants, some of whose tribes are so terrible to man, and even tothe beasts of the wood, from their venomous bites, their fiercetemper and voracity, that their path is freely abandoned to them,and they may well be called lords of the forest.I know of ten different species of ants found in these regions,all differing widely in their choice of food, the quality of theirvenom, the manner of their attack, or the time of their operation. The most remarkable and most dreaded of all is thebashikouay.The Bashikouay Ant, magnified to twice its natural size.This ant, also called nchounou by the Mpongwe, is veryabundant in the whole region I have travelled over in Africa,and is the most voracious creature I ever met. It is thedread of all living animals, from the leopard to the smallestinsect.I do not think that they build a nest or home of any kind.At any rate they carry nothing away, but eat all their prey onthe spot. It is their habit to march through the forests in along regular line-a line about two inches broad and often312 FEROCITY OF THE BASHIKOUAY. CHAP. XVII.several miles in length. All along this line are larger ants, whoact as officers, stand outside the ranks, and keep this singulararmy in order. If they come to a place where there are notrees to shelter them from the sun, whose heat they cannot bear,they immediately build underground tunnels, through which thewhole army passes in columns to the forest beyond. Thesetunnels are four or five feet underground, and are used only inthe heat of the day or during a storm.When they grow hungry the long file spreads itself throughthe forest in a front line, and attacks and devours all it overtakes with a fury which is quite irresistible. The elephant andgorilla fly before this attack. The black men run for theirlives. Every animal that lives in their line of march is chased.They seem to understand and act upon the tactics of Napoleon,and concentrate, with great speed, their heaviest forces uponthe point of attack. In an incredibly short space of time themouse, or dog, or leopard, or deer is overwhelmed, killed, eaten,and the bare skeleton only remains.They seem to travel night and day. Many a time have Ibeen awakened out of a sleep, and obliged to rush from the hutand into the water to save my life, and after all suffered intolerable agony from the bites of the advance-guard, who hadgot into my clothes. When they enter a house they clear it ofall living things. co*ckroaches are devoured in an instant.Rats and mice spring round the room in vain. An overwhelmingforce of ants kills a strong rat in less than a minute, in spite ofthe most frantic struggles, and in less than another minute itsbones are stripped. Every living thing in the house is devoured.They will not touch vegetable matter. Thus they are inreality very useful (as well as dangerous) to the negroes, whohave their huts cleaned of all the abounding vermin, such asimmense co*ckroaches and centipedes, at least several times ayear.When on their march the insect-world flies before them, andI have often had the approach of a bashikouay army heraldedto me by this means. Wherever they go they make a cleansweep, even ascending to the tops of the highest trees in pursuitof their prey. Their manner of attack is an impetuous leap.Instantly the strong pincers are fastened, and they only let gowhen the piece gives way. At such times this little animalCHAP. XVII. THE GRAY BASHIKOUAY. 313seems animated by a kind of fury which causes it to disregardentirely its own safety, and to seek only the conquest of its prey.The bite is very painful.The negroes relate that criminals were in former timesexposed in the path of the bashikouay ants, as the most cruelmanner of putting them to death.Two very remarkable practices of theirs remain to be related.When on their line of march they require to cross a narrowstream, they throw themselves across and form a tunnel -aliving tunnel-connecting two trees or high bushes on oppositesides of the little stream, whenever they can find such tofacilitate the operation. This is done with great speed, and iseffected by a great number of ants, each of which clings with itsfore claws to its next neighbour's body or hind claws. Thusthey form a high, safe tubular bridge, through which the wholevast regiment marches in regular order. If disturbed, or if thearch is broken by the violence of some animal, they instantlyattack the offender with the greatest animosity.The bashikouay have the sense of smell finely developed, asindeed have all the ants I know, and they are guided very muchby it. They are larger than any ant we have in America, beingat least half an inch long, and are armed with very powerfulfore legs and sharp jaws, with which they bite. They are redor dark-brown in colour. Their numbers are so great that onedoes not like to enter into calculations; but I. have seen onecontinuous line passing at good speed a particular place for twelvehours. The reader may imagine for himself how many millionson millions there may have been contained here.There is another species of bashikouay which is found in themountains to the south of the equator. It is of great size. Thebody is grayish-white in colour; the head of a reddish-black. Itsfangs are very powerful, and it is able to make a clean bite outof a piece of flesh. It is thus a very formidable animal; butfortunately its motions are not so quick as those of its fiercebrother; it does not march in such vast armies, nor does it precipitate itself upon its prey with such irresistible fury. In itsmotions it is almost sluggish. They do not invade villages, norclimb trees in pursuit of prey; and I do not think them nearlyso voracious as their fellows before mentioned. If they were,they could doubtless clear the country of every living thing, for314 THE NCHELLELAY. CHAP. XVII.they are much more powerful. They are, in fact, to ants whatwhales are to fishes.Next to the bashikouay come the nchellelay, or white ants.These troublesome animals do not bite or attack living things atall. They live on vegetable substances, and are particularlyfond of cotton-cloth, paper, and old wood. They have a greataversion to daylight, and use all means possible to avoid it. Toreach an object which is situated in the light they build a claytunnel, through which they pass in safety. The clay seems tobe moistened with some juices of their own, and becomes quitefirm on exposure to the air. Their nests, which are curiouslyshaped, with overhanging flat roofs (exactly like a toadstoolor gigantic mushroom), are constructed in the same manner,and are built up from within, the underground excavationsdoubtless furnishing clay for this purpose.It is almost impossible to keep anything safe from thesedestroyers. They work in silence, unseen, and with wonderfulrapidity. One night's negligence suffices to spoil a box ofclothing or books. They seem to be attracted by smell ratherthan sight to their prey. They are always near; and they cutthrough any-the hardest -wood, in order to reach the object oftheir desires. I have noticed that they always cut through themiddle of a piece of cloth first, as though they were trying to doas much mischief as possible. Such is their perseverance anddestructiveness, that I think one of the greatest boons to thispart of Africa would be to rid it of this pest.The earth of which they build their houses becomes so hard,after it has been mixed with their saliva, that it stands theheaviest and longest rain-storms without melting or breakingaway, and they last many rainy reasons. They leave no openingin their house for air or light, for both which they seem to havea particular aversion. And thus, too, they are protected fromother ants who are their enemies, and against whom, beingunarmed, they would find it difficult to defend themselves.Among these enemies the chief is the bashikouay ant, whichpursues the white ant with great fury. I have sometimes, whenI noticed some of these white-ant-hills in the track of an armyof bashikouay, knocked away the top. No sooner was this donethan the bashikouay rushed to their work, and in a short timenot a white ant was left.CHAP. XVII. VARIETIES OF ANTS. 315When the house is only slightly injured, the working ants arecalled, and immediately set to work to mend the hole, using claybrought from the interior. The outside work is only carried onduring the night.These ants, though called white, are really of a straw colour.They emit a strong smell, especially if crushed.The Little Ant.This is a minute house-ant, found in myriads in every Africanvillage in this region, and a great plague; for the least carelessness with food on your part will bring them on you, and ruineverything you have eatable to which they can gain access. Inan African's house all food is suspended from the ceiling by cordswhich are limed (tarred on the coast) to make the ants' passageimpossible. But even then they sometimes drop down on theirprey. Tables are set in cups of water on the coast to keep offthese troublesome visitors. I was unfortunate enough once toleave my sugar-bowl within their reach. I returned in lessthan half-an-hour for it, and then already it was covered, insideand out, with countless thousands of these little scavengers.The whole bowl, inside and out, was one living, heaving massof black.They seem to have a very acute smell. They are never seentill something to eat is within their reach, and then they come-where from I do not know-in such vast numbers that thetraveller is not only astonished, but alarmed at such a besiegingarmy.There are two kinds of these little ants, one red and the otherblack; but in other respects, so far as I know, alike.The Black Antlives in the forests, generally in rotten trees, and is not troublesome, as it mostly hunts singly, not in swarms, and does notattack man unless it is first disturbed. When it does attack, itsbite, as I have experienced, is very sharp and painful; but thepain does not last long, and the poison, if there is any, is notvery virulent.The Red Leaf-ant.This animal has a singular manner of building its nest. It316 VARIETIES OF ANTS. CHAP. XVII.prefers to live in certain trees, which very often are completelykilled by these ingenious house-builders. They choose the endof a branch where there is generally a thick bunch of leaves.These leaves they glue one to the other by their edges in sucha way that they make a bag the size of an orange, and this isthe nest. It is a very singular sight to see a number of trees inthe forests with pendants of this kind to every limb and branch;for they will build all over a tree, and so occupy and abuse it asvery shortly to kill it. The bite of these ants is very painful,and their temper, as with most ants who can defend themselves,very vindictive. Woe to the traveller who inadvertently shakesa tree or branch on which these fellows have built. They immediately fall upon him in great numbers, and bite him withoutmercy.There is a reddish-black ant, of medium size, which builds itsnest about the roots of certain trees, which it ascends to eat thetender shoots of the branches. Its bite is rather painful, and itoften kills the trees on whose shoots it feeds, and about whoseroots it lives.The common Black Sand-ant.This is, next to the bashikouay, the most to be dreaded of anyant I met in Africa. It is a little black ant, living chiefly inthe Camma country, near the villages, and found travellingsolitarily through the sand of the prairie. Fortunately it is notvery numerous.Its bite is not felt at the time, but in a little while after thereis a very severe and distressing pain as though a scorpion hadbitten you; and this lasts, with intermissions, sometimes formany hours. After suffering half-a-dozen times from the biteof this little plague, I came to dread it more than any other antor other venomous insect of Africa. The bashikouay gives youwarning, and the bite is only painful at the moment; but thisCamma ant attacks singly and unperceived, and you are bittenbefore you know it.A Nest-building Ant.There is also a black ant, which builds a very ingenioushanging nest, suspending it from the branches of trees. Thisnest is generally two feet long by a foot in diameter, and insideCHAP. XVII. VARIETIES OF ANTS.317is full of galleries and highways, where work is done, and foodis stored, and eggs are laid, and the young are raised. To makethese nests safe and waterproof in the heavy rains which prevailhere, the ants construct them just as our houses are roofed orshingled, with this difference, that while the tiers of leaf whichthey use to shingle their building overlap each other, and thusshed the water, they do not touch each other-by which meansa fine system of ventilation is kept up in the nest.Small Underground Bashikouay.This ant is not so much dreaded as the formidable reddishblack bashikouay. It is smaller, of a reddish colour, and doesnot live in the forest, but in the villages and houses among men.It does not appear in numbers above-ground till it smells foodnear. Then they issue from a great number of little holes inthe ground, whose passages seem all to communicate with eachother below the ground. Its bite, though not so terrible as thatof the bashikouay, is still very painful. It is not a roving ant.The large Red Ant.This, though one of the largest of the African ants, does not' attack man. It is a night ant, and is never seen by day; iteven avoids candlelight. This ant is excessively fond of cookedmeat, and also of sugar. It chooses its habitation in dark cornersand hidden closets, where the light will not disturb it. ·318 THE SEASONS. CHAP. XVIII .CHAPTER XVIII.The Seasons and the Fevers of Equatorial Africa .THE Western Coast of Africa has two seasons- -the dry and therainy season.Both the time and the duration of these seasonsdepend on the latitude and longitude of the place. That is tosay, the sun rules the season; and whenever the sun is in thezenith of any given place, that spot has then its rainy season .Thus, when the rains are at their height in Senegambia, it is dryunder the equator.But the duration of the rains is also ruled somewhat by thegeneral formation of the country. A wide open country or sandydesert has less rain and a shorter rainy season than a woodedtract, and the mountain ranges have the most rain of all. Thus,on the mountains in the interior, it rains much more and considerably longer than in the same latitude near the seashore.The rainy season begins in the interior among the mountains,and gradually approaches the seashore; and, on the other hand,the dry season commences on the seaboard and passes to theinterior. There is almost a month of difference in the seasonsin these countries, though situated in the same latitude, andonly about one hundred and fifty miles apart.The tract nearest the equator on both sides has the longestrainy season; and as we approach the tropics the rains becomeshorter and the dry season longer.Near the equator the rains begin about the middle or end ofSeptember, and terminate in the beginning, or sometimes nottill the close of May. The dry season lasts from May toSeptember.But on or near the equator this long rainy season is interrupted by a short period, when the rains cease. This " little dryseason " lasts from a month to six weeks, and sometimes evenlonger. It occurs in the middle or end of December, lastinginto January or the beginning of February. During this timeit rains very little.The period of the " little dry season " is, therefore, that atCHAP. XVIII. THE RAINS. 319which the sun is nearest the southern tropic. As by the revolution of the earth the sun becomes non-vertical near the equatorial line, the rains again begin, and grow heaviest when thesun is on the line.Though the rains are heavy before this little dry season, theyare as nothing compared with those which follow. Tornadoesthen become frequent, and blow with extraordinary force duringFebruary, March, and April.During the rainy season the streams become swollen andoverflow their banks, covering the flat country which borderstheir courses. The bush vegetation and the grass ofthe prairiesgrow luxuriantly; and when the waters retire a heavy depositof fertile mud remains to enrich the soil, and also to breed feversand other diseases.During the rainy season on the coast the prevailing wind isfrom the south-west.The hottest part of the year is during the rains. Near theequator the hot months are December, January, February,March, and part of April, though on the coast the thermometerranges no higher than from 85° to 90°. A few weeks beforethe dry season sets in the days and nights become cooler, andthe wind veers gradually from south-west to south. After thefirst month of the wet season it rains mostly only at night.The dry season is the coolest part of the year in this part ofAfrica, and the natives often suffer from cold. The thermometerranges as low sometimes, early in the morning, at 64°; the skyis overcast, which is peculiar to this season; the wind on thecoast, which had blown from the land in the morning and fromthe sea by night, now almost turns into one steady sea-breeze,which blows strongly, especially in the afternoon and evening.This is the sickly season in Africa for the negroes, who at thistime suffer much from pleurisies and fevers; and it is an uncomfortable fact that it is much healthier and safer for whitemen to explore the rivers in the dreary rainy season than in themany-ways charming dry season.This dry season is to the negroes what summer is to us. Theygo more frequently on travels and trading-tours into the interior;their villages are deserted, everybody going out to the plantations; they burn the dry brush, cut down trees, and clear theground for agricultural operations; and when the streams have320 THE DRY SEASON. CHAP. XVIII .fairly receded within their banks, go out in search of ivory, whichis often found on the dry bottoms of recently full lagoons, andnear the recently overflown river-banks.As we depart from the equator and approach the tropicalbounds, the rainy seasons become shorter and the dry seasonslonger. This is owing to the influence of the sun, as beforeexplained; and not only is the rainy season shortened by thequicker passage of the sun over the regions nearest the tropicallines, but as the sun is for half the year near one or other of thetropics, so they lack the short intermediate dry season which isa relief to the long rains on the equator. Also, it is observedthat the rains somewhat precede the sun in its course, and last,in any given place, until it has receded so far as to have nofarther influence.Near the equator, on the seashore, the rainy season marks itsbeginning by a continuous drizzle, but without much thunderduring the first month. Thunder is heard rolling in the fardistance in the direction of the mountains, and finally the rainscome on in full force with thunder and lightning. Then the sunis at the zenith for that spot. As it moves to the south or norththe rains gradually grow milder; and when the sun stands overthe tropic of Capricorn there occurs on the equator that intermediate dry season to which I have alluded.It is noticeable that the equatorial dry season is not interrupted by any short rainy season to balance the " little dryseason " which interrupts the long rains at the time when thesun is near the southern tropic; also that the rains, which beginas the sun returns from the north, are more continuous while thesun is to the south of the equator than when it is to the north.Doubtless the conformation of the land and the prevailing windsoperate to aggravate the rains at one time and to withhold themat another.During the dry season there is little and often no perceptibledew.The first care of a white man coming to remain for a time onthe West Coast is to inure his body by degrees to the heat and tothe miasms which create the fevers so fatal to the white race.On my first voyage to Africa I arrived in the hottest time of theyear in the middle of the rainy season. My chief solicitude wasfor a while to keep clear of fever; for those who are seized onCHAP. XVIII. FEVER. 321their first arrival suffer more severely, and are prostrated forlonger periods afterwards than those who escape for a time.I may as well state here that all white residents on this coasthave the fever more or less. None escape altogether-too manydie. That a good constitution, managed with prudence, willstand a good many attacks, is proved by my own experience andthat of others. I suffered, in the four years over which this narrative extends, from no less than fifty attacks, and have swallowedquite fourteen ounces of quinine.I will here relate the treatment which I found, after much experience, to answer best, both as preventive and curative; andby following which and living carefully, I was able to undergowith impunity such hardships and exposures as are too often fatalto white men on the African coast.From the day of my arrival on the coast I took quininemorning and evening, in doses of three or four grains. This Ihave found a good preventive. When languor, headache, andaching of the limbs appeared as premonitory symptoms of fever,I increased the dose to eight or ten grains. Thus for the firstmonth I took daily doses of quinine; and for the next monthoccasional doses, generally every two days. During my wholestay in Africa I took from time to time, even when in perfecthealth, doses of quinine or quinine wine as a prophylactic or preventive against malaria. Also I took daily, while near the coast,where such articles were, with care, attainable, either port orsherry wine, ale, or claret in moderation. When at my depôtfor the time being, I always took care to have these articles athand. In my journeys to the far interior I could not, however,encumber myself with such supplies. But I always provided asufficient store of pure brandy to afford me at least a thimblefuldaily. This I found an excellent remedy for cramps occasionedby bad food and indigestion, or exposure to wet and cold, and avery valuable tonic for the debilitated system of a half- starvedexplorer and hunter. Brandy and strong coffee, both daily, butin the greatest moderation, are, next to good habits and a goodconstitution, the best safeguards against disease to the travellerin Central Africa. Some of my good friends the missionariessometimes remonstrated with me for what they thought settinga bad example to the natives, and I am bound to say they religiously abstained themselves, except when absolutely necessary.Y322 PRECAUTIONS AGAINST FEVER. CHAP. XVIII .But they do wrong; and a proof of this is, that many of themsuccumb to the climate and the fevers, and not one enjoys asgood general health as was my good fortune; although the lifeof a traveller like myself was necessarily more exposed than thatof one living steadily in one place, and not subject to extremesof exertion and of hunger.The fact is that our American missionaries too often carrywith them into the tropics the habits of our temperate andhealthy climate, and make it a matter of conscience to adhereto such customs as are not at all calculated to preserve healthunder changed circ*mstances. Total abstinence may perhapsdo for the temperate clime of the United States; but I have nohesitation in saying that a little wine, brandy, or ale every dayis absolutely necessary to keep up the tone of the system in awhite person in Africa. One esteemed friend, a missionary onthe coast, had been a vegetarian at home. He adhered almostliterally to this habit in his new field of labour, notwithstandingthe advice of those who had experience of the coast. He atenothing but fruits and vegetables, and, of course, presently contracted a dangerous dysentery. " Circ*mstances alter cases."The climate of the West Coast is sickly and exhausting, notbecause of its extreme heats, but because of its high average temperature and moisture, and the universal prevalence of malaria.Owing to the prevalence of a sea- breeze, the mercury is rarelyhigher than 90° in the shade; but then it rarely falls below 80°for nine months in the year; and even in the remaining threethe dry season-it never gets below 64°. Thus the body getsno relief at all, and is gradually weakened until, finally, fever isbrought on by some incautious exposure to the ever- presentmalaria.hat.Exposure to the mid-day sun must be carefully avoided.Whenever I walked in the sun, even mornings and evenings, Icarried an umbrella over my head and a handkerchief in myIn fact, the theory of the turban-hot as that head- coveringlooks-is the true one for a tropical sun. White men cannotwork much on the coast. They must rest a great part of everyday. Nevertheless, regular exercise is highly beneficial; andthose who walk or ride mornings and evenings always enjoy thebest health. Between 10 A.M. and 4 P.M. exposure to the sun isdangerous, and should be carefully avoided by new comers.CHAP. XVIII. CAUSES OF FEVER. 323Finally, coffee is a healthy beverage. And when the systembecomes accustomed to quinine, and this medicine ceases tooperate, sometimes a small dose of Fowler's solution of arsenicwill be found very successful in stopping the chills.The African coast fever is caused by the miasms which risefrom the immense swamps which line this part of the coast, andwhich are, in fact, the mouths of the various rivers and theirlower tributary creeks. These, falling into the low lands, arethere dispersed, and become sluggish. Their beds are filled withdecaying vegetable matter brought in immense masses from theupper country during the rainy season. The banks are linedand overgrown with dense masses of mangroves, bamboos, andother water-loving trees and jungle, which keep out the light ofthe sun; and now, when the dry season comes on, the miasmsrise and are dispersed, so that no part of the coast is free fromtheir influence.The heavy rains which prevail during the long rainy season ofeight or nine months suffice to saturate the soil, and to decaythe mouldering vegetable substance which meanwhile accumulates. The heats of the dry season drain the creeks and exposetheir beds, which now exhale such poisonous vapours as even thenatives cannot withstand. These find the dry season the mostsickly; and most white residents have a similar experiencecontrary to the commonly received opinion. I have no doubtthat the great mortality of several African exploring expeditionsarose, in a measure, from the mistaken supposition that the dryseason was the safest for such ventures.The beginning of the rainy season is another period of especialunhealthiness. Then the river-beds are still heated, and the firstrains are immediately exhaled into feverish vapours. It is onlyafter a severe and continued drenching, when the rainy season isfully set in, that African rivers should be explored.The preliminary symptoms of fever, which are of the utmostimportance for preventive purposes, are too generally overlookedby those newly arrived on the coast. To old stagers, who havehad experience, they afford the opportunity, by care and a considerable dose of quinine, to stave off the attack.These symptoms set in generally a few hours before the chill.Incautious exposure to the mid-day sun, sitting in wet clothes,or unusual excitement, however, often precipitate the attack. IY 2324 PREMONITORY SYMPTOMS. CHAP. XVIII.have seen a man lose his temper, and almost instantly fall into achill. In fact, the mind must be guarded as well as the bodywhen illness is threatened.The premonitory symptoms are: loss of appetite and irritability of temper; then heaviness of the head, languor, aching ofthe limbs, an unpleasant taste in the mouth, continual yawningand stretching, and general prostration.If these are neglected, there follows gradually a slight sensation of cold. The sufferer seeks shelter from the breeze and putson an overcoat. Finally comes the regular chill, which is sometimes light, but oftener very severe.When the chill has lasted for a considerable but variable time,it disappears, and fever sets in. Often the close of the chill isvaried with sudden flashes of heat, succeeded by the cold. Thehot stage generally lasts about six hours, and subsides gradually.On its cessation the patient feels relieved, but finds himselfgreatly prostrated . His face is shrunken and pallid, and he hasa generally cadaverous appearance.In some cases fevers begin without chills, but only precededby headache, nausea, pains in the back and limbs, &c. I havehad many more fevers than chills, and was often taken first byfever.Meantime, between the attacks of fever, quinine must be immediately given, and in as large doses as the system can bear;for Africa is not a place for small doses. The medicine may betaken internally, which is the usual way; or the body may berubbed with it, in which case a larger quantity must be used, asthe pores do not imbibe it readily; or, finally, it may be used byinjection.Frequently the medicine does not prevent a return of the chillfor one or even two paroxysms, and at periods of from twelve totwenty-four hours. In this case the symptoms are increased. Inthe fever stage the skin becomes red and hot, the face turgid, theeyes bright and watery; there is violent pain in the head, greatthirst, and often distressing and continued nausea. Sometimesnausea is so severe as to make the internal application of quinineimpossible, in which case rubbing it into the skin and taking itby injection will be found useful. But long-continued nauseaoften seriously complicates the disease and weakens the body,thus making it less able to resist attacks.CHAP. XVIII. MALIGNANT FEVER. 325During the fever the pulse is always increased in frequencyand force; but the range is great, varying from 80 to 130 beatsper minute, even in simple and uncomplicated fevers. To allaythirst, weak lemonade is given. The period of recovery varies,of course, with the severity of the attack; but even in very mildcases several days are required to re-establish the patient's health.The disease I have described is the common and mild form ofcoast-fever, the simplest and least dangerous of all . Often,however, other symptoms appear with these, and cause a complicated intermittent, which is much more serious, because moredifficult to treat when it has once become chronic.This is occasioned by inflammation of the spleen and liver.The spleen is subject to a chronic enlargement where patientshave suffered from intermittent fever, and persons suffering fromsuch enlargement should not remain on the coast. Affectionsof the spleen cannot always be known without percussion; butaffections of the liver are easily recognized by their effect uponthe complexion. The white of the eyes becomes yellow, and thewhole complexion is sallowed.Intermittent fever often approaches very insidiously, the firstchills being so light as to be almost invariably neglected, untilfinally a decided chill proclaims that the fever- demon has gainedpossession.But the most dangerous form of fever in Africa is that knownas malignant or pernicious fever. To this violent disease stoutand full-blooded men are much more subject than lean and thinpersons. It is noticeable that the African climate is much morefatal to full -blooded, robust, hearty people, than to those whoare lank and thin. No length of residence or completeness ofacclimation exempts a man from this last-mentioned form offever. The oldest residents are sometimes carried off with aspeed which is truly frightful. The disease not unfrequentlyruns its course in twenty-four to thirty-six hours.The approach of malignant fever is very insidious. An attackbegins mostly with an ordinary chill, attended by no unusual ormarked symptoms. Sometimes the patient has had a light chilla day or two before this, which he has neglected. Sometimes hehas felt slightly unwell for ten or fourteen days; has complainedof loss of appetite and general weariness; but, as these symptomsare not very marked, they are very apt to be overlooked, espe-326 TREATMENT OF MALIGNANT FEVER. CHAP. XVIII.cially with new comers. It requires one fully on his guard andfamiliar with all the symptoms to detect its approach.The real attack may begin with a chill or with a fever, but itseffects are, in either case, at once evident in a peculiarly yellowskin and haggard countenance. In fever there is profuse perspiration, a rush of blood to the head, high and irregular pulse, andgeneral prostration. Sometimes the body is hot, but dry. Thirstis urgent, but the stomach rejects whatever is swallowed.Now is the time to give quinine in large doses. In such casesI have stopped or rather cured the attack by taking this medicine at the rate of 60 grains per day, 20 grains at a dose; andif I were suffering from a severe attack, I should not hesitateto take in one day 150 grains.If the paroxysm of fever returns, it is with renewed force, andthe third attack is commonly fatal. Before death the patientbecomes insensible: there is violent vomiting, which is, in fact,but a regurgitation of the ingesta, mixed with green and yellowfluids. Immediately after the chill, and even before this haspassed off, the urine becomes dark red or black. The pulse isvery irregular, the breathing slow, and finally the patient sinksaway into a state of coma, and dies without a struggle.There is another form of attack which ends even more quicklythan the one just described . In this there is no yellowness. Thecountenance is pale, and has a peculiar ghastliness and wildnessof expression. The skin is cold to the touch, though the patientdoes not complain of cold. The whole surface is almost insensibleto stimulants. The pulse is generally small and very frequent,particularly in the beginning. Under these symptoms sometimesa patient sinks away, reaction never occurring. The treatmenthere must be stimulating. In the last stages there is sometimesblindness and deafness; in others there is not only entireprostration of the intellect, but raving delirium, and the patientmust be held in bed by force. This soon ends in stupor anddeath.The natives sometimes suffer from fever, though by no meansas frequently as the whites. With them the chills return sometimes every third or seventh day for some weeks, and finallywear out of themselves. I have known a few-four or fiveinstances where natives died of malignant fever, but this doesnot happen often. In the cases I saw they had first, for a fewCHAP. XVIII. CARE OF HEALTH IN AFRICA. 327days, the usual chills, which then turned into malignant fever,under which they sank.In cases of malignant fever, inflammatory complications of theliver, spleen, or brain greatly aggravate the attack, and almostalways give the disease a fatal turn.If the chills are broken by medicine they are apt to return atlonger but regular intervals, mostly in seven, fourteen, or twentyone days, and precautions should be used against such returns.It is well to take quinine twelve or twenty-four hours before theperiodical return of the chill.Persons residing permanently in any fever district are moreliable to attacks than those who are moving about, and in this Ihad an advantage, though on several occasions a return to thecoast from the interior brought on a fever which probably Ishould have escaped had I remained all the time on the coast.Where a fever is not broken readily by medicine, it is prudentto try a temporary change of locality.I will conclude this chapter by a summary account of mycourse of treatment of myself in a fever attack. When the chillwas felt I covered myself heavily to induce perspiration. Thenmy extremities were severely rubbed with pepper and mustardto restore their temperature. The thirst of fever was quenchedwith cold lemonade. Costiveness was averted by cathartics. Forheadache cold water was applied, and, when this was withouteffect, leeches, which are very abundant almost everywhere inthis region. If my liver was affected I took calomel, and alsoapplied leeches. Meantime quinine was taken in doses of from4 to 12 grains, and at the rate of from 12 to 60 grains per day,according to the violence of the attack. And when the feverwas broken I continued to take four or five grain doses daily forsome weeks, as a preventive.The treatment must be energetic. Delays are most dangerous;and I have found it well to meet every individual symptom, sofar as possible, with a remedy. In intermittent chills, where theparoxysm returns generally after seven days, I was very carefulto take quinine the day before and on the day of the chill a fewhours before it came on. Patients should not be frightened bythe slight deafness and ringing in the ears, which is one of theimmediate effects of quinine. These effects go off presently, andthey are useful as evidence that the drug has taken effect.328 EXPLANATION. CHAP. XVIII.During my residence in Africa I paid much and closeattention to the phases of fever; but it was not till after someyears of careful study of my own symptoms that I became ableto detect its insidious approach with any degree of certainty, andthus, by timely preventives and care, ward off many attacks.In justice to myself, my readers, and particularly the medicalprofession, I must say, in conclusion, that I have never studiedmedicine, and know nothing of diseases or their remedies beyondwhat my necessities, as a traveller in a barbarous and sicklycountry, have compelled me to learn experimentally. Butnecessity is an able teacher.CHAP. XIX. SUBDIVISIONS OF THE TRIBES. 329CHAPTER XIX.Politics: the Government, Superstitions, and Slave System of EquatorialAfrica.I HAVE found it most convenient to consider these three subjectstogether, because each is intimately affected by the other; andto treat of them separately would be almost impossible.Among the tribes which I visited in my explorations I foundbut one form of government, which may be called the patriarchal.There is not sufficient national unity in any of the tribes to giveoccasion for such a despotism as prevails in Dahomey and in otherof the African nationalities. I found the tribes of EquatorialAfrica greatly dispersed, and, in general, no bond of union between parts of the same tribe. A tribe is divided into numerousclans, and these again into numberless little villages, each ofwhich possesses an independent chief. The villages are scattered, are often moved on account of death or witchcraft, as Ihave already explained in the narrative, and not unfrequentlyare engaged in war with each other.The chieftainship is, to a certain extent, hereditary, the rightof succession vesting in the brother of the reigning chief or king.The people, however, and particularly the elders of the village,have a veto power, and can, for sufficient cause, deprive the linealheir of his succession, and put in over him some one thought ofmore worth. In such cases the question is put to the vote ofthe village; and where parties are equally divided as to strength,there ensue sometimes long and serious palavers before all canunite in a choice. The chief is mostly a man of great influenceprior to his accession, and generally an old man when he gainspower.His authority, though greater than one would think, judgingfrom the little personal deference paid to him, is final only inmatters of every-day use. In cases of urgency, such as war orany important removal, the elders of the village meet togetherand deliberate in the presence of the whole population, whofinally decide the question.330 PROPERTY. CHAP. XIX.The elders, who possess other authority and are always in thecounsels of the chief, are the oldest members of important familiesin the village. Respect is paid to them on account of their years,but more from a certain regard for " family," which the Africanhas very strongly wherever I have known him. These familiesform the aristocracy.TheExcept in the neighbourhood of the Gaboon, trade with whitesis yet insignificant. There is no property in land; they have nocattle, and the riches which give a man consequence consist,therefore, of slaves and wives. The more wives (and fathers- inlaw) the more power. The more slaves, the more ease andplenty. The nature of the country and the total absence ofnational esprit, makes such vast predatory wars as we hear of inDahomey and other kingdoms impossible in this great region.Nevertheless, life and property are by no means secure.African is a jealous creature. He watches his neighbour's prosperity with jaundiced eyes, and a man acquires wealth in slavesand wives at the constant risk of his life. His relatives cannothelp thinking of their rich inheritance if he were out of the way.His neighbours would like to plunder him. And so presentlyrumours are raised that he is a potent and evil-minded sorcerer-that he " possesses a witch;" then come accusations-witnessesare but too easily obtained-the case is sure to go against him—and he flees for refuge to another tribe, remaining in lifelongbanishment; or, if he faces it out, is compelled to try the poisonordeal, and, unless he has firm and influential and faithful friends—a rare thing here—he perishes.As for other property, such as ivory or trade goods, these arecarefully concealed -only the owner, his head wife, and a fewtrusty friends knowing of their existence.The villages in all this region are not very populous. Veryfew have a thousand inhabitants, many have only a few hundreds,and many more not even a hundred. Large expeditions forpurposes of robbery or murder are therefore impossible: stillless possible because of the nature of the country, which is analmost impenetrable forest, and because the people have nobeasts of burden or draught to convey them.Nevertheless, wars are frequent, and in some parts almostconstant. Quarrels or palavers arise on account of bad faith intrade; intrigues with strange women; a desire for slaves, eitherCHAP. XIX. SLAVERY. 331for domestic service or for the foreign trade; wanton or vindictive accusations of sorcery; and often out of mere commercial orsocial jealousy of the neighbours' superior prosperity or good luck.In war they show no bravery, although on the hunt they arecertainly brave enough. They despise boldness and admirecunning; prefer to gain by treachery, if possible; have no mercyor consideration for the enemy's women and children; are cruelto those who fall in their power.The system of slavery, as it prevails here, is not at all understood, and I shall endeavour to make it plain to my readers.In the first place, I ought to state that its existence has no connection at all with the foreign slave-trade. There were slavesheld here long before a barracoon was built on the coastprobably long before the good priest Las Casas thought ofrelieving his poor Indians by substituting black men in theirplace. History testifies of this. Nor is it continued because ofthe present foreign slave-trade. It has an independent existence, and is ruled by laws of its own.There are two kinds of slaves in all the tribes I met. Oneclass are domestic servants, who are not sold out of the tribe,and who, while suffering some disabilities as slaves, have yet alarge portion of liberty, and a certain voice and influence in thevillage where they are owned. They are protected by theirmaster; have often property of their own; and their chief dutyis to provide him with food, either by hunting or by assisting inthe tillage of the ground, which is the labour of free women andthe female slaves.Masters are seldom very severe with their slaves, and thisbecause they fear the slave will in revenge bewitch them. Theslave is held to be in a very inferior position to a free man; andthe master may kill his slave if he will, no one having the rightof interfering between them. The laws or customs of the country protect him in this privilege, which I have myself known tobe exercised. Many slaves enjoy the confidence of their mastersto that degree that they are sent on long trading journeys withmuch valuable property. They are generally faithful to suchtrusts.Those tribes which have a connection with the coast, and aforeign market for their slaves, also employ themselves in purchasing slaves from other tribes to supply this trade. This is a332 FOREIGN SLAVE-TRADE. CHAP. XIX .distinct kind of slavery, however; and the domestic slave is, inmost cases, in no fear of being sold to the coast so long as he isaccused of no crime. The foreign slave-trade is now suppliedalmost entirely from the interior. Thus many of that singularpeople, the Fans, have been recently brought down to the coast.So the Ashira and Apingi, and members of tribes living evenbeyond them, and totally unknown to the whites, find their waydown to the Cape Lopez and other barracoons, handed alongfrom tribe to tribe just like a tusk of ivory or a stick of ebony.It may easily be imagined that the effect of this foreigndemand on the tribes living nearest the coast is to multiplyaccusations of witchcraft and other crimes, for which slavery is apunishment, and thus to enlarge the evils of this system. Butit must also be admitted that, whereas now a man is too valuableto kill and is sold, if the foreign demand did not exist, all menaccused of sorcery would be barbarously murdered.Inquire of the men of any tribe in this region, and they willtell you that they do not sell their own people, but that they areall freemen. Nevertheless, the observer will find that debtorsare often sold; sorcerers, adulterers, and cheats are either soldor killed; and in all palavers, of whatever kind, the man whogoes to the wall is pretty sure to be sold off. They do notkeep such people in their own tribes, but sell them to the nexttribe, as I have remarked before. Where tribes are fast disappearing, the children born slaves in the country of theirmaster are not sold, but form a kind of population apart.-No better illustration could be given of the way in which theslave-system has ingrafted itself upon the life and policy of thesetribes than this, that, from the seashore to the farthest point inthe interior which I was able to reach, the commercial unit ofvalue is a slave. As we say dollar, as the English say poundsterling, so these Africans say slave. If a man is fined for anoffence, he is mulcted in so many slaves. If he is bargainingfor a wife, he contracts to give so many slaves for her. Perhapshe has no slaves; but he has ivory or trade goods, and pays ofthese the value of so many slaves-that is to say, as much ivory,or ebony, or bar-wood, or the amount in trade goods whichwould, in that precise place, buy so many slaves. For it mustnot be forgotten that at every short remove into the interior theslave's value diminishes; so that, among the Apingi, a slave isCHAP. XIX. THE SLAVE A UNIT OF VALUE. 333worth only about one-seventh what he would bring at CapeLopez. This deterioration, however, is balanced by the increasedvalue of trade goods, for which the demand always exceeds thesupply, and which, therefore, to some extent, rule the market.If a man is fined a certain number of slaves, he may pay in"trade " of any kind. If he has no slaves or goods, then he isoften sold himself, and the proceeds, be it ivory or other " trade,"are divided among those to whom the fine was incurred.It is a mistake to suppose that the slave-trade is the cause ofall the wars and quarrels of the African tribes and nations.Where it plays a part, it doubtless aggravates these; but thetotal absence of any law but that of the strongest—the almosttotal ignoring of the right of property, and the numerous superstitions of the people, are the fertile causes of constant warfare.Agreater development of regular civilized trade would be agreat boon to these people. Many articles, such as guns, powder,tobacco, brass, and iron in various shapes, &c. , have becomenecessities to the tribes who are within reach of white trade;but they are never obtainable in nearly sufficient quantities, andconsequently are held very precious. Now the high prices area great temptation to the cupidity of the African, who, having apower of life and death over his children, often does not hesitateto sell these where other produce is lacking. He finds that oneof his children is not bright, that it has no sense, or that it wantsto bewitch the father. Then a consultation ensues with therelatives of the mother; they are promised a share in the produce of the sale for they have rights also in the child—and,when they are brought to consent, the unhappy child is sold off.With the increase of legitimate trade such temptations willbe done away with. At the same time, I am convinced that theintroduction of agricultural industry, the planting of cotton andsugar for export, when these ends are accomplished will onlyserve to rivet the bonds of the slave by so much as they willincrease his value to the master. Now, the slave only adds tohis master's ease and consequence; then, he will appeal to hiscupidity. Show him that he can make a profit on his labour,and he will never consent to set him free.Polygamy exists everywhere. A man's great ambition is tohave a great many wives. These cultivate the ground for him,and it is, in fact, their duty to feed him. He does not interfere334 WOMEN. CHAP. XIX.with their labours on the soil. They are responsible for his dailyfood. The man buys his wife of her father for a sum agreed on,often when she is but a child. She becomes his wife sometimesat the age of five, and sometimes still younger. Often the youngchild is placed under care of the future husband's chief wife, aprivileged personage, who superintends her husband's affairs,shares his secrets, rules his other wives, and to intrigue withwhom is a special and greater offence than adultery with theothers. A man's claims on his father-in-law for help in trade,or in a palaver, are rigidly respected, and this gives additionalvalue to a great number of wives. I have found that the wivesrarely disagree among themselves. Early marriage and hardtreatment makes many of the women childless; and greegrees,which are believed to cure sterility, are in great demand allover the country. Children, whether male or female, arethought a great blessing, not only to the father, but to his village, whose consequence is increased by every birth. Theyknow very little of the right care of children, and a great proportion of the infants die.Men marry at every opportunity, and at all ages up to seventyor eighty. As long as he can buy wives, this is his greatambition. Obedience is the wife's first duty, and it is enforcedwithout mercy. Such a whip as is figured below is an importantinstrument found in every house. It is made of the hide ofthe hippopotamus or manatee, and is a barbarous weapon, ashard and heavy as iron. This is laid on with no light hand,the worthy husband crying out, " Rascal, do you think I paidmy slaves for you for nothing? " The wives are more harshlytreated than the slaves—a stroke of the whip often leaves alife-long mark; and I saw very few women in all my travelswho had not some such marks on their persons.Whip, or the African Peace-maker.The women in all the tribes are much given to intrigue, andchastity is an unknown virtue. As they are not confiend inCHAP. XIX. FETICHISM. 335their movements, but roam about freely and till the soil, opportunity is never wanting. And if a woman has many children,her many sins are easily forgiven her. Then she is the pride,not only of her husband, but of the whole village.Fetichism is the name applied by Europeans to the religionof the tribes and natives of western and southern Africa. It isderived from the Portuguese term feiticão, signifying magic; andthis, in turn, comes from the Nigritian feitico, which means " amagic thing." Among the tribes with which I am familiar,there is no native generic term equivalent to our word religion,and no necessity for one, as they have no idea of a system ofbelief. By fetichism is understood the worship of idols, andanimate and inanimate objects, such as serpents, birds, rocks,mountain peaks, feathers, teeth, &c.; and the belief in good andevil spirits, in the power of charms ( called monda) , and in thesignificance of dreams.Their religious notions are of the loosest and vaguest kind,and no two persons are found to agree in any particulars aboutwhich the traveller seeks information. After the most carefuland extensive inquiries, I am unable to present an array ofitems from which the reader may make up a theological system.Superstition seems in these countries to have run wild, and everyman believes what his fancy, by some accident, most forciblypresents to him as hurtful or beneficial.The only point on which I have come to a determinate conviction is that, though these people lay offerings upon the gravesof their friends; though they even sometimes shed the blood ofslaves on the grave of a chief or of a father of a family; thoughthey fear the spirits of the recent dead; though their belief insorcery is very strong: yet they are sunk in an utter materialism,and not only have no definite ideas as to the state of the soulafter death, but do not even believe in its existence forsiderable time after it leaves the body.any conThey fear the spirits of the recently-departed; and besidesplacing furniture, dress, and food at their graves, return fromtime to time with other supplies of food. When men andwomen are slain over a grave, they even believe that their spiritsjoin that of him in whose honour they have been killed. Duringthe season appointed for mourning, the deceased is rememberedand feared; but when once his memory grows dim, the negro336 FEAR OF SPIRITS. CHAP. XIX .ceases to believe in the prolonged existence of the departedspirit.Ask a negro where the spirit of his grandfather or greatgrandfather, whom he did not know, is, and he will reply confidently that it is " done," " gone out," no more, or that he doesnot know where it has gone.I have frequently held such conversation as this:"Do you believe there is a God? ""Yes.""Doyou"No."“ Afterdeathall is done," is a proverbalwaysin theirmouths.Thefearof spiritsof the departedseemsan instinctivefeelingfor whichtheydo notattemptto accountto themselves, andaboutwhichtheyhaveformedno theory. Theybelievethespiritis nearandaboutthem

that

it requiresfoodandproperty

that

it can andsometimesdoesharmthem. Theythinkof it as a vindictivething, to be fearedandto be conciliated.Butas the memoryof the departedgrowsdim, so doesthisfearof his spiritvanish. Aska negroaboutthe spiritof his brotherwhodiedyesterday, andhe is fullof terror

ask him

aboutthespiritof thosewhodiedlongago, andhe willtell youcarelessly,"It is done

" that

is to say, it has no existence.think you will see this God when you die?"This total lack of generalization or systematizing a belief isvery curious, and goes through all their individual superstitions.Thus a negro told me such a man's soul (whom he knew), whenhe died, went to the woods, and now inhabited a certain bird,which was therefore sacred. But when I asked if he believed inthe transmigration of souls, he confidently told me No. Hebelieved in this particular case, and for some special reason, butno farther. The ouganga or doctor had said so, or he haddreamt it, or it was the current belief. But beyond that he didnot think.I found in all the tribes I visited a faith in the existence andpower of two great spirits, one called Abambou or Ocoucou, andthe other Mbuirri. They have other names in various tribes,but wherever I journeyed I found this belief. Both appear tobe evil spirits, though sometimes willing to do good. They arenot represented by idols, but have houses built for their occupation when tired of wandering, food offered to them, and areCHAP. XIX. IDOL-WORSHIP. 337feared and implored to do no harm. One is generally countedso much less evil than the other, that he may be called a goodspirit in some cases, and by comparison. Some tribes believethem to be married to two female spirits. They are said sometimes to walk into the village by night and to let their voicesbe heard. These two spirits are the potent ones; they seem tobe more powerful than all the others. In sickness and on othergrave occasions they are always invoked.The name Aniambié stands, I think, for God. But yet theyhave no idea of a Supreme and Almighty Spirit, Creator andPreserver. The word aniemba, which sounds much like thepreviously-named, and is probably derived from the same root,signifies " possessed by a witch. "The large idol of a clan is kept in a house made for the purpose, and hither come its worshippers when they are about toproceed on a hunting or other important expedition . Theypresent food, and then invoke its protection by dancing andsinging before it.Such idols are handed down from generation to generation,and are much feared. There are also private idols, possessedand worshipped by individuals; but these have less authority.Their idols, which are always repulsive figures, are believedto speak, to walk about, to eat and drink-in short, to performall, or nearly all, the functions of a man. It is remarkable thatthey have no priests. The ouganga or doctor is their wise manand medicine-man-he who exorcises evil spirits and puts powerinto their charms; but he has nothing to do with the idol.Next in order, after the idols, come the charms or greegrees,called by them monda. Greegree, like fetich, is a term ofEuropean origin. In these mondas they have implicit faith.No negro in all this region but has about his person one or moreof these articles. The preparation gives a considerable revenueand much honour to the doctors, who have, however, themselvesthe greatest confidence in these things. The mondas are generally worn about the neck or waist; are made of the skins ofrare animals, of the claws of birds, of the teeth of crocodiles orleopards, of the dried flesh and brains of animals, of the feathersof rare birds, of the ashes of certain kinds of wood, of the skin.and bones of serpents, &c. &c. Every greegree has a specialpower. One protects from sickness; another makes the heartZ338 FEAR OF DEATH. CHAP. XIX .of the hunter or warrior brave; another gives success to thelover; another protects against sorcery; some cure sterility, andothers make the mother's breast abound in milk for her babe.The charmed leopard-skin worn about the warrior's middle issupposed to render that worthy spear-proof; and when he hasan iron chain about his neck no bullet can hit him. If thecharm fails, his faith is none the less firm, for then it is considered that some potent and wicked sorcerer has worked a toopowerful counterspell, and to this he has fallen a victim .The greatest curse of the whole country is the belief in aniemba,sorcery or witchcraft. The African firmly believes death to bealways a violence. He cannot imagine that a man who was welltwo weeks ago should now be lying at death's door with disease,unless some potent wizard had interfered, and by witchcraftbroken the thread of life and inflicted sickness. They have themost terrible and debasing fear of death."Are you ready for death?" I sometimes asked."No! " would be the hasty reply.ah!" with a shudder of horror."Never speak of that;And then a dark cloud settled on the poor fellow's face; inhis sleep that night he had horrid dreams, and for a few days hewas suspicious of all about him, fearing for his poor life, lest itshould be attacked by a wizard.If the African is once possessed with the belief that he isbewitched, his whole nature seems to change. He becomes suspicious of his dearest friends. The father dreads his children—the son his father and mother, the man his wife, and the wivestheir husband. He fancies himself sick, and really often becomessick through his fears. By night he thinks himself surroundedwith evil spirits. He covers himself with fetiches and charms,makes presents to the idol and to Abambou and Mbuirri; and isfull of wonderful and frightful dreams, which all point to thefact that the village is full of wicked sorcerers. Gradually thevillage itself becomes infected by his fears. The people growsuspicious. Chance turns their suspicions to some unlucky individual, who is supposed to have a reason for a grudge. Finally,the excitement becomes too high to be restrained; and oftenthey do not even wait for a death, but begin at once the work ofbutchering those on whom public suspicion is fastened. On thedeath of a free man, at least one or two persons are killed; butCHAP. XIX. THE OUGANGA, OR DOCTOR.339this is not generally the case when women, children, or slavesdie. The law of witchcraft makes no distinction, as regards itsvictims, between prince, slave, or free man, male or female.In such cases the influence of the ouganga, or doctor, is alwayspotent for evil . He gains in power by every such scene; andit is his interest, therefore, to foster rather than to restrain theexcitement. His incantations are waited upon with breathlessinterest, and woe to the luckless man or woman who has offendedhim, for now he has his revenge. His decisions follow often theprejudices of the multitude, who have suspected beforehand thosethat are thought to be possessed of the aniemba. From the doctor'sdecision there is no appeal but that of the mboundou.The ouganga, or doctor, is a personage whose chief powersare the ability (which is real) to drink great quantities of themboundou poison, and the power (which is imaginary) to discoversorcerers, and to confer powers on greegrees and charms, which,without his manipulations, are worthless. This personage enjoys,therefore, great consequence in his tribe or village. His wordis potent for life or death. At his command-or rather at hissuggestion-the village is removed: men, women, and childrenare slain or enslaved; wars are begun and ended. I was neverable to satisfy myself on the interesting point whether thesedoctors were themselves deceived; but, after close observationand many trials, I conclude that they are in most cases.or two I knew to be such great rascals that I felt pretty surethey were also humbugs; but the great majority were, I amconfident, victims to their own delusions. The African has apeculiarly excitable temperament. I noticed that doctors, likeother men, when on their death-beds, always laid their death atthe door of some malignant sorcerer, and called for vengeanceupon him. They are subject to the same fears as their dupes,and have as great confidence in their own dreams.OneThe region in which I travelled is so amply blessed with rainsthat there is no necessity for the " rain-maker, " who is so important a member of a South African tribe. But in some tribesthere are ougangas who pretend to the power to stop therains, and gain great honours by these pretensions in the rainyseason, when, if they really owned the skill they aspired to,they would often be most useful to the poor wet uncomfortabletraveller.z 2340 DIVINATION AND DEMON POSSESSION. CHAP. XIX.On the eve of all the more important undertakings of thevillage or tribe a doctor is consulted, who pretends to be able,by certain ceremonies of divination, to foretell the issue, and bythis they shape their conduct. It sometimes happens, too, thata negro, not a doctor, is seized with the belief that Obambou (adevil ) is in his body. The bowels are the seat of this possession;and the possessed goes about in a wild way-sees visions, dreams,and pretends to foresee future events, gaining sometimes considerable temporary prestige.CHAP. XX. FIRST KNOWLEDGE OF ANTHROPOID APES. 341CHAPTER XX.Account and Comparison of the great Apes of Africa: the TroglodytesGorilla, the T. Kooloo-kamba, the Chimpanzee (T. niger), and the NshiegoMbouvé, or T. calvus.IN this chapter I propose to give the reader, in a collectedform, the results of my researches into the habits of those speciesof man-like apes which I met in the forests of Equatorial Africa.Of these the gorilla is the chief; and I am the first white manwho has systematically hunted this beast, and who has at allpenetrated to its haunts. The other apes-the Troglodytes calvus,or nshiego mbouvé, and the T. Kooloo-kamba—I had the satisfaction to be the first to make known, by preserved specimensand by description . Such particulars as have been mentionedalready in the course of this narrative I shall not repeat here,it being my wish to give in this place only a general view ofthese animals -their structure, habits, and modes of life-suchas would have unduly interrupted the narrative, and been lesssatisfactory to the reader, had it been interspersed in variousplaces there.For several centuries naturalists had been vaguely cognizantof the existence of a very peculiar and remarkable species of apein Western Africa. It was named by Tyson, in 1699, the hom*osylvestris, or Pigmy. Linnæus, in some of the editions of his' Systema Naturæ,' calls it the hom*o troglodytes. Blumenbachnamed it the Simia troglodytes, and under this name thechimpanzee afterwards became generally known. This-thechimpanzee-was the first species of anthropoid ape known tothe scientific world.In course of time naturalists became acquainted with anotherspecies, brought from Borneo-the orang-outang. This animaldiffered from the African ape in being covered with reddishbrown hair, and in many other particulars. It was called Simiasatyrus.In 1780 the skeleton of another large ape was sent fromBatavia to Holland by Baron Wurmb, the resident governor, who342 DISCOVERY OF THE GORILLA. CHAP. XX.called it the Pongo. It received from naturalists the name PongoWurmbi.Up to the year 1829, when Cuvier revised his summary of ourknowledge of the animal kingdom in his ' Règne Animal, ' ourknowledge of the anthropoid apes was limited to these threespecies.It was long suspected by eminent naturalists that the pongoof Wurmb was but the adult form of the orang. On the otherhand, it was found that the facial angle of the young orang ofBorneo, and of the young chimpanzee of Africa, by the predominant cranium and small jaws and teeth, approached nearer thanany other known mammalian to the human species, and especiallyto the lower negro forms. This was the opinion of leading comparative anatomists, some of whom maintained that these formsbelonged to or denoted separate and advanced species, until, in1835, Professor Richard Owen, the illustrious British comparativeanatomist, investigated the state of dentition of these heads, andestablished the fact that they belonged to the young of a largerspecies.In 1812 Geoffroy St. Hilaire made the genus Troglodytes forthe chimpanzee, and this classification has been adopted by allwho have come after him.Meantime there had been vague rumours of the existence inAfrica of another and larger species of ape. It was not, however,till 1847 that the scientific world was startled by unexpectedevidence of the existence of this new species. A skull was discovered accidentally, towards the close of the year 1846, by mygood friend Rev. Dr. J. Leighton Wilson, nowof New York, andthen a missionary of the American Board of Commissioners forForeign Missions on the Gaboon, West Africa. Dr. Wilson afterwards obtained another skull and part of a skeleton, which hepresented to the Boston Natural History Society.The first-discovered skull Dr. Wilson presented to Dr. Savage,of Boston, who afterwards procured another, the skull of afemale; and from these various bones Dr. Savage and ProfessorJeffries Wyman prepared the descriptive memoirs printed invol. v. of the Boston ' Journal of Natural History,' by which theexistence of this new and singular animal was first announced tothe scientific world. *

• Other memoirs are in vols . v. and vi. of the ' Bost. Jour. of Nat. Hist. ,' by

CHAP. XX. HANNO'S VOYAGE. 343This brings me to an examination of the accounts brought byvarious travellers, from Hanno down to a recent period, of ananimal resembling more or less the real gorilla, and which havebeen supposed to allude to that animal, and to furnish evidencethat they saw and killed it. The record of Hanno's voyage isone of the most curious fragments of antiquity remaining to us.His voyage is supposed to have occurred in the sixth centurybefore Christ, though some critics place it at a much later period.He was sent out by the government of Carthage to circumnavigate the African continent. His journal begins with the followingsentence, which sufficiently relates the object of his voyage: -" Itwas decreed by the Carthaginians that Hanno should undertakea voyage beyond the Pillars of Hercules, and found LyboPhoenician cities. He accordingly sailed with sixty ships offifty oars each, and a body of men and women to the number ofthirty thousand, with provisions and other necessaries. " According to Pliny, he was to follow the coast- line of the continenttill he reached the Arabian Gulf.

The passage in the Periplus, or Voyage of Hanno, in which itis supposed he alludes to the animal now known as the gorilla,reads as follows:-"Onthe third day, having sailed from thence,passing the streams of fire, we came to a bay called the Horn ofthe South. In the recess was an island like the first, having alake, and in this there was another island full of wild men. Butmuch the greater part of them were women with hairy bodies,whom the interpreters called gorillas. * But pursuing them,we were not able to take the men; they all escaped from us bytheir great agility, being cremnobates (that is to say, climbingprecipitous rocks and trees) , and defending themselves by throwingstones at us. We took three women, who bit and tore those whocaught them, and were unwilling to follow. We were obliged,therefore, to kill them, and took their skins off, which skins werebrought to Carthage, for we did not navigate farther, provisionsbecoming scarce."6Prof. Jeffries Wyman, describing four crania and a skeleton; in vols. iii . andiv. of the " Transact. of the Zoological Soc. of London, ' by Prof. Richard Owen,describing the skeleton; tome viii. of the ‘ Archives du Muséum, ' by Duvernay;and in vol. x. of the Archives du Muséum d'Histoire Naturelle, ' by IsidoreGeoffroy St. Hilaire. Dr. Wyman and Dr. Savage named the new animal thegorilla, a name applied by Hanno, an old Carthaginian navigator, to the wildhairy men which he found on the coast of Africa.344 HANNO DID NOT SEE THE TRUE GORILLA. CHAP. XX.According to Pliny, the skins were hung in the temple of Juno,and the name gorillas was changed to gorgones. Two of theseskins were yet in the temple at the time when Carthage wastaken. "Penetravit in eas (Gorgades Insulas) Hanno Pœnorumimperator, prodiditque hirta feminarum corpora, viros pernicitateevassisse, duarumque gorgonum cutes argumenti et miraculigratia in Junonis templo posuit, spectatas usque ad Carthaginemcaptam."Comparing this account with the habits of the gorilla, as setforth further on, I believe the reader will join me in the conclusion that the animal seen and captured by Hanno was notthe gorilla of our day, though it may have been the chimpanzee.The huge gorilla consumes so great an amount of vegetablefood that no considerable number could have found sustenanceon an island such as Hanno mentions. Moreover, unless itshabits have undergone a very great change, it is not likely thatthe males would have retreated and left their females in thelurch. In my experience, the male invariably advances towardsthe foe, and secures the safe retreat of its female, and on suchoccasions acts with ferocious courage. Again, to capture even afemale gorilla by hand and by simple force is, I think, impossible. No one who has seen the animal in its native forests,and watched the exhibition of its enormous strength, wouldbelieve the account.It seems probable, therefore, that Hanno met only the Troglodytes niger, or chimpanzee, which is common in the mountainsand forests of Senegambia, and which does not attack man.Even of this, however, I doubt if his men captured any adultspecimens. They took, probably, some half-grown females, whowere not active enough to get away.Andrew Battel, an African traveller, whose adventures weretaken down by Purchas, and printed in his ' Pilgrims, ' is thefirst in modern times who makes mention of two differentAfrican apes, the pongo and the engeco. He was for a whileprisoner to the Portuguese in Angola, and has this passage onthe apes:"The greatest of these two monsters is called pongo in theirlanguage, and the lesser is called engeco. The pongo is in allproportions like a man, for he is very tall, and hath a man'sface, hollow-eyed, with long haires upon his brows. His bodyCHAP. XX. BATTEL'S ACCOUNT.345is full of haire, but not very thicke, and it is of a dunnishcolour. He differeth not from man but in his legs, for theyhave no calfe. He goeth alwaies upon his legs, and carriethhis hands clasped on the nape of his necke when he goeth uponthe ground. They sleepe in trees, and build shelter for theraine. They feed upon the fruit that they find in the woods,and upon ants, for they eate no kind of flesh. They cannotspeake, and have no understanding more than a beast. Thepeople of the countrie, when they travaile in the woods, makefires where they sleepe in the night, and in the morning, whenthey are gone, the pongos will come and seat about the fire tillit goeth out, for they have no understanding to lay the woodtogether. They goe many together, and kill many negroe thattravaile in the woods. Many times they fall upon elephantswhich come to feed where they be, and so beat them with theirclubbed fists and pieces of wood that they will runne roaringaway from them. The pongos are never taken alive, becausethey are so strong ten men cannot hold one of them; but theytake many of their young ones with poisoned arrows. Theyoung pongo hangeth on his mother's belly with his hands fastclasped about her, so that, when the country-people kill any ofthe females, they take the young which hangs fast upon themother. When they die among themselves, they cover the deadwith great heapes of boughs and wood, which is commonlyfound in the forests."*This description of Battel seems to me the most accurate ofany down to Bowditch, of whom I am presently to speak. Ibelieve that the gorilla is not found south of the Setti-CammaRiver, this being the last point to which I have been able totrace it. The language of the Mayomba people has someaffinity to that of the Mpongwe, though greatly differing fromit. The word engeco, which is applied by Battel to the smallestof the monster apes, is undoubtedly the nshiego of the Mpongweand Camma tribes of this day. As for the word pongos, I am ata loss. It cannot apply to the Mpongwe tribe, for this tribehas emigrated to the Gaboon within this century; three of theNdina, the former possessors of the river, remaining alive tothis day; and in Andrew Battel's time the Mpongwe tribe were

• Purchas, His Pilgrims, Part ii . , p. 984. London, 1623.

346 BOSMAN'S ACCOUNT. CHAP. XX.living far in the interior, and their name was unknown, supposing them to have had even existence as a tribe then. Unfortunately, I was unacquainted with Battel's story when I wasin Africa, or I should have inquired among the Mayombapeople as to the origin and meaning of the name, if, indeed ,any traces of the word remain after more than three centuries,which seems to me very doubtful. Allowing that Battel knewthe gorilla and chimpanzee, the reader will see that he mademany serious errors in his descriptions of their habits andappearance. His stories are mere travellers ' tales, and are untrue of any of the great apes of Africa.After him come other travellers, who tell, however, such absurd and incredible stories that it is plainly to be perceived howthey added themselves to the already sufficiently exaggeratedreports of the negroes.Temminck quotes, in his ' Esquisses Zoologiques ' upon thecoast of Guinea, a passage of Bosman, which seems to refer tothe gorilla and chimpanzee. If it is to be counted anything morethan a fable, it is a very exaggerated and untrustworthy account.Bosman says: "They [these apes] are in this country by thousands. The first and most common are those which are calledby our people smitten. They are fawn-coloured, and becomevery tall. I have seen some with my own eyes who are fivefeet high, and somewhat smaller than a man. They are verywicked and bold; and what an English merchant told meappears incredible, that there is, behind the fort the Englishhave at Wimba, a great quantity of these monkeys, who are sobold that they attack men."Bosman continues: " There are negroes who affirm thatthese monkeys can speak, but that they will not, in order not towork. These monkeys have an ugly face, " and so on. "Thebest thing about these kind of monkeys is, that they can betaught everything their master desires."6Passing by several other travellers' tales of this kind, wecome at last to the first real account of the gorilla. This wasgiven by T. E. Bowditch, in his Narrative of a Mission fromCape Coast Castle to Ashantee, ' published in London, 1819.He, too, is the first to call it by its Mpongwe name. In thatpart of his work relating his visit to the Gaboon, he says: "Thefavourite and most extraordinary subject of our conversationCHAP. XX. GORILLA-STORIES. 347on natural history was the ingena, an animal like the orangoutang, but much exceeding it in size, being five feet high andfour across the shoulders. Its paw was said to be even moredisproportioned than its breadth, and one blow of it to be fatal.It is seen commonly by them when they travel to Kaybe, lurking in the bush to destroy passengers, and feeding principallyon wild honey, which abounds. Among other of their actionsreported without variation by men, women, and children of theMpongwe and Sheekaï [ Shekiani], is that of building a housein rude imitation of the natives, and sleeping outside on theroof of it." *So far all travellers spoke either of the chimpanzee (Troglodytes niger), or related hearsay accounts of the gorilla. It remained for the Rev. Dr. Wilson, an American missionary, topresent to the world the first real evidence of the existence ofthis monstrous animal; and for Dr. Savage and Professor JeffriesWyman, the celebrated comparative anatomist, of Boston, to giveto natural history the first memoir on part of the skeleton andon the cranium. Still, no traveller or resident had succeeded infollowing the animal to its haunts in the unknown regions of theinterior, and such particulars of its habits as came to Europeand America were obtained from the natives, whose dread ofthe monstrous beast fills their minds with superstitious ideas ofits nature, and exaggerated notions of its habits.My long residence in Africa gave me superior facilities forintercourse with the natives, and as my curiosity was greatlyexcited by their reports of this unknown monster, I determinedto penetrate to its haunts and see with my own eyes. It hasbeen my fortune to be the first white man who can speak of thegorilla from personal knowledge; and while my experience andobservation prove that many of the actions reported of it arefalse and vain imaginings of ignorant negroes and creduloustravellers, I can also vouch that no description can exceed thehorror of its appearance, the ferocity of its attack, or the impishmalignity of its nature.I am sorry to be the dispeller of such agreeable delusions;but the gorilla does not lurk in trees by the roadside, and dragup unsuspicious passers-by in its claws, and choke them to

• Mission to Ashantee, p. 440.

348 HABITS OF THE GORILLA. CHAP. XX.death in its vice-like paws; it does not attack the elephant, andbeat him to death with sticks; it does not carry off womenfrom the native villages; it does not even build itself a houseof leaves and twigs in the forest-trees and sit on the roof, as hasbeen confidently reported of it. It is not gregarious even, andthe numerous stories of its attacking in great numbers have nota grain of truth in them.It lives in the loneliest and darkest portions of the denseAfrican jungle, preferring deep wooded valleys and also ruggedheights. The high plains also, whose surface is strewn withimmense boulders, seem to be favourite haunts. Water occurseverywhere in this part of Africa, but I have noticed that thegorilla is always found very near to a plentiful supply.It is a restless and nomadic beast, wandering from place toplace, and scarce ever found for two days together in the sameneighbourhood. In part this restlessness is caused by the struggle it has to find its favourite food. The gorilla, though it hassuch immense canines, and though its vast strength doubtless fitsit to capture and kill almost every animal which frequents theforests, is a strict vegetarian. I examined the stomachs of allwhich I was lucky enough to kill, and never found traces thereof aught but berries, pineapple leaves, and other vegetablematter. It is a huge feeder, and no doubt soon eats up thescant supply of its natural food which is found in any limitedspace, and is then forced to wander on in constant battle withfamine. Its vast paunch, which protrudes before it when itstands upright, proves it to be a great feeder; and, indeed, itsgreat frame and enormous muscular development could not besupported on little food.It is not true that it lives much or at all on trees. I foundthem almost always on the ground, although they often climbthe trees to pick berries or nuts, but after eating they returnto the ground. By the examination of the stomach of manyspecimens, I was able to ascertain with tolerable certainty thenature of its food, and I discovered that, for all I found, it hadno need to ascend trees. It is fond of the wild sugarcane;especially fond of the white ribs of the pineapple leaf; and iteats, besides, certain berries which grow close to the ground;the pith of some trees, and a kind of nut with a very hard shell.This shell is so hard that it requires a strong blow with a heavyCHAP. XX. COURAGE OF THE MALE GORILLA. 349hammer to break it; and here is probably one purpose of thatenormous strength of jaw which long seemed to me thrownaway on a non-carnivorous animal, and which is sufficientlyevidenced by the manner in which the barrel of the musket ofone of my unfortunate hunters was flattened by an enragedmale gorilla.Only the young gorillas sleep on trees, for protection fromwild beasts. I have myself come upon fresh traces of a gorilla'sbed on several occasions, and could see that the male had seatedhimself with his back against a tree-trunk. In fact on the backof the male gorilla there is generally a patch on which the hairis worn thin from this position, while the nest-building Troglodytes calvus, or bald-headed nshiego, which constantly sleeps under its leafy shelter on a tree-branch, has this bare place at itsside, and in quite a different way. I believe, however, thatwhile the male always sleeps at the foot of a tree, or elsewhereon the ground, the female and the young may sometimes ascendto the tree-top, as I have seen marks of such ascension.Those apes which live much in trees, as the chimpanzee, havefingers on both their fore and hind feet much longer than thegorilla's, which, indeed, approximate much nearer to the construction of the human hand and foot, and are, by reason of thisdifferent construction, less fitted for tree-climbing. Here I maystate that, though young chimpanzees are often captured by thenegroes of the Muni Moonda and Gaboon rivers, which showsthat they are somewhat abundant in those regions, I never metwith a single shelter, and consequently have come to the conclusion that they make none.The gorilla is not gregarious. Of adults, I found almostalways one male with one female, though sometimes the oldmale wanders companionless. In such cases, as with the " rogue "elephant, he is particularly morose and malignant, and dangerousto approach. Young gorillas I found sometimes in companiesof five; sometimes less, but never more. The young alwaysrun off, on all fours, shrieking with fear. They are difficult toapproach, as their hearing is acute, and they lose no time inmaking their escape, while the nature of the ground makes ithard for the hunter to follow after. The adult animal is alsoshy, and I have hunted all day at times without coming uponmy quarry, when I felt sure that they were carefully avoiding350 THE ATTACK OF THE MALE GORILLA. CHAP. XX.me. When, however, at last fortune favours the hunter, and hecomes accidentally or by good management upon his prey, heneed not fear its running away. In all my hunts and encounterswith this animal, I never knew a grown male to run off. WhenI surprised a pair of gorillas, the male was generally sittingdown on a rock or against a tree, in the darkest corner of thejungle, where the brightest sun left its traces only in a dimand gloomy twilight. The female was mostly feeding near by;and it is singular that she almost always gave the alarm byrunning off with loud and sudden cries or shrieks. Then themale, sitting for a moment with a savage frown on his face,slowly rises to his feet, and, looking with glowing and maligneyes at the intruders, begins to beat his breast, and, lifting uphis round head, utters his frightful roar. This begins withseveral sharp barks, like an enraged or mad dog, whereuponensues a long, deeply guttural, rolling roar, continued for overa minute, and which, doubled and multiplied by the resoundingechoes of the forest, fills the hunter's ears like the deep rollingthunder of an approaching storm. As I have mentioned before,I have reason to believe that I have heard this roar at a distanceof three miles. The horror of the animal's appearance at thistime is beyond description. At such a sight I could forgivemy brave native hunters for being sometimes overcome withsuperstitious fears, and ceased to wonder at the strange, weird"gorilla-stories " of the negroes.It is a maxim with the well-trained gorilla-hunters to reservetheir fire till the very last moment. Experience has shownthem that whether the enraged beast takes the report of thegun for an answering defiance, or for what other reason unknown—if the hunter fires and misses, the gorilla at once rushesupon him; and this onset no man can withstand . One blow ofthat huge paw with its nails, and the poor hunter's entrailsare torn out, his breast-bone broken, or his skull crushed. It istoo late to re-load, and flight is vain. There have been negroeswho in such cases, made desperate by their frightful danger,have faced the gorilla, and struck at him with the empty gun.But they had time for only one harmless blow. The next moment the huge arm came down with fatal force, breaking musketand skull with one blow. I imagine no animal is so fatal in itsattack on man as this, for the reason that it meets him face toCHAP. XX. DEATH OF THE GORILLA. 351face, and uses its arms as its weapons of offence, just as a manor a prize-fighter would-only that it has longer arms, and vastlygreater strength than the strongest boxer the world ever saw.The gorilla is only met in the most dark and impenetrablejungle, where it is difficult to get a clear aim, unobstructed byvines and tangled bushes, for any distance greater than a fewyards. For this reason, the gorilla-hunter wisely stands stilland awaits the approach of the infuriated beast. The gorillaadvances by short stages, stopping to utter his diabolical roar,and to beat his vast breast with his paws, which produce a dullreverberation as of an immense bass-drum. Sometimes from thestanding position he seats himself and beats his chest, lookingfiercely at his adversary. His walk is a waddle, from side toside, his hind legs -which are very short-being evidently somewhat inadequate to the proper support of the huge superincumbent body. He balances himself by swinging his arms, somewhatas sailors walk on shipboard; and the vast paunch, the roundbullet-head, joined awkwardly to the trunk with scarce a vestigeof neck, and the great muscular arms, and deep, cavernous breast,give to this waddle an ungainly horror, which adds to his ferocityof appearance. At the same time, the deep-set gray eyes sparkleout with gloomy malignity; the features are contorted in hideouswrinkles; and the slight, sharply-cut lips, drawn up, reveal thelong fangs and the powerful jaws, in which a human limb wouldbe crushed as a biscuit.The hunter, looking with fearful care to his priming, standsstill, gun in hand, often for five weary minutes, waiting withgrowing nervousness for the moment when he may relieve hissuspense by firing. I have never fired at a male at greater distance than eight yards, and from fourteen to eighteen feet is theusual shot. At last the opportunity comes; and now the gun isquickly raised, a moment's anxious aim at the vast breadth ofbreast, and then pull trigger.In shooting the hippopotamus at night, and on shore, thenegro always scampers off directly he has fired his gun. Whenhe has fired at the gorilla he stands still. I asked why they didnot run in this case too, and was answered that it was of no use.To run would be fatal. If the hunter has missed he must battlefor his life face to face, hoping by some piece of unexpected goodfortune to escape a fatal blow, and come off, perhaps, maimed for352 THE GORILLA UNTAMABLE. CHAP. XX.life, as I have seen several in the up-river villages. Fortunately,the gorilla dies as easily as man; a shot in the breast, if fairlydelivered, is sure to bring him down. He falls forward on hisface, his long, muscular arms outstretched, and uttering with hislast breath a hideous death-cry, halfroar, half shriek, which, whileit announces to the hunter his safety, yet tingles his ears with adreadful note of human agony. It is this lurking reminiscenceof humanity, indeed, which makes one of the chief ingredientsof the hunter's excitement in his attack of the gorilla.ItThe common walk of the gorilla is not on his hind legs, buton all-fours . In this posture, the arms are so long that the headand breast are raised considerably, and, as it runs, the hind legsare brought far beneath the body. The leg and arm on the sameside move together, which gives the beast a curious waddle.can run at great speed. The young, parties of which I haveoften pursued, never took to trees, but ran along the ground;and at a distance, with their bodies half- erect, looked not unlikenegroes making off from pursuit: the hind-legs moved betweenthe arms, and those were somewhat bowed outward. I have neverfound the female to attack, though I have been told by thenegroes that a mother with a young one in charge will sometimes make fight. It is a pretty thing to see such a mother withthe baby gorilla sporting about it. I have watched them in thewoods, till, eager as I was to obtain specimens, I had not the heartto shoot. But in such cases my negro hunters exhibited notenderheartedness, but killed their quarry without loss of time.When the mother runs off from the hunter, the young onegrasps her about the neck, and hangs beneath her breasts withits little legs about her body.I think the adult gorilla utterly untamable. In the courseof the narrative the reader will find accounts of several younggorillas which my men captured alive, and which remained withme for short periods till their deaths. In no case could anytreatment of mine, kind or harsh, subdue these little monstersfrom their first and lasting ferocity and malignity. The youngof the nshiego mbouvé ( T. calvus) , on the contrary, is very easilytamed, and I had one for some months as a companion. Theyoung orang and chimpanzee have been frequently tamed. Ofthe new and rare kooloo-kamba I was not so fortunate as tosecure a living specimen; but being only a variety of the chim-CHAP. XX. STRENGTH OF THE GORILLA. 353panzee, the young could be tamed, no doubt. But the gorilla isentirely and constantly an enemy to man-resenting its captivity,young as myspecimens were-refusing all food except the berriesof its native woods, and attacking with teeth and claws even me,who was in most constant attendance upon them; and finallydying without previous sickness, and without other ascertainablecause than the restless chafing of a spirit which could not suffercaptivity nor the presence of man.The young of the chimpanzee is yellow; that of the nshiegombouvé is a very pale white; but the young gorilla is coal-black.Even the youngest I got, which was a mere baby in arms andcould not walk, was black as jet.The strength of the gorilla is evidently enormous. Ayoungone of between two and three years of age required four stoutmen to hold it, and even then, in its struggles, bit one severely.That with its jaws it can dent a musket barrel, and with its armsbreak trees from four to six inches in diameter, sufficiently provesthat its vast bony frame has corresponding muscle. The negroesnever attack them with other weapons than guns; and in thoseparts of the far interior where no European guns had yet reached,as among the Apingi, this great beast roamed unmolested, themonarch of the forest. To kill a gorilla gives a hunter a life-longreputation for courage and enterprise even among the bravest ofthe negro tribes, who are generally, it may be said, not lackingin this quality of courage.The gorilla has no cries or utterances that I have heard exceptthose already described, the short, sharp bark, and the roar ofthe attacking male, and the scream of the female and youngwhen alarmed; except, indeed, a low kind of cluck, with whichthe watchful mother seems to call her child to her. The youngones have a cry when in distress; but their voice is harsh, andit is more a moan of pain than a child's cry.It uses no artificial weapon of offence, but attacks always withits arms, though in a struggle no doubt the powerful teeth wouldplay a part. I have several times noticed skulls in which thehuge canines were broken off, not worn down, as they are inalmost all the adult gorillas by gnawing at trees which theywished to break, and which, without being gnawed into, are toostrong even for them. The negroes informed me that such teeth.were broken in combats between the males for the possession of2 A354 GORILLA-MEAT. CHAP. XX.a female, and I think this quite probable. Such a combat mustform a magnificent and awful spectacle. Astruggle between twowell-matched gorillas would exceed, in that kind of excitementwhich the Romans took such delight in, anything in that linewhich they were ever gratified with.There is no doubt that the gorilla walks in an erect posturewith greater ease and for a longer time than either the chimpanzee or nshiego mbouvé. Whenstanding up, his knees are bentat the joints outwards, and his back has a stoop forward. Histrack, when running on all-fours, is peculiar. The hind feetleave no traces of their toes on the ground. Only the ball ofthe foot and that thumb which answers to our great toe seem totouch. The fingers of the fore hand are only lightly marked onthe ground.The natives of the interior are very fond of the meat of thegorilla and other apes. Gorilla-meat is dark red and tough. Theseashore tribes do not eat it, and are insulted by the offer ofit, because they suspect some affinity between the animal andthemselves. In the interior some families refuse to eat gorillameat from the superstitious belief explained elsewhere, that atsome time one of their female ancestors has brought forth agorilla. The skin is thick and firm as an ox-hide, but, thoughmuch thicker than in any other ape, it is very tender; it breakseasily, especially under the arm, near the hip. When the hideis dried, the epidermis comes off very easily, and in this differsmuch from the skin of the other apes, which, though not sothick, are not so tender.I do not give here any account of other superstitions of thenegroes concerning the gorilla, because they are fully detailedin other parts of the book.In height adult gorillas vary as much as men. The adultmales in my collection range from five feet two inches to five feeteight; and the parts of a skeleton which my friend ProfessorJeffries Wyman has, are so much larger than any in my possession, that I am warranted in concluding the animal to whichit belonged to have been at least six feet two inches in height.The female is much smaller, less strong, and of lighter frame.One adult female in my collection measured, when shot, fourfeet six inches.The colour of the skin in the gorilla, young as well as adult,CHAP. XX. APPEARANCE OF THE GORILLA. 355is intense black. This colour does not appear, however, exceptin the face, on the breast, and in the palms of the hands. Thehair of a grown, but not aged specimen, is in colour iron-gray.The individual hairs are ringed with alternate stripes of blackand gray, which produces the iron-gray colour. On the armsthe hair is darker and also much longer, being sometimes overtwo inches long. It grows upwards on the fore-arm and downwards on the main-arm. Aged gorillas, the negroes told me,turn quite gray all over; and I have one huge male in my collection whose worn-out tusks show great age, and whose colouris, in fact, a dirty gray, with the exception of the long blackshaggy hair on the arm. The head is covered with reddishbrown hair, short, and extending almost to the neck, or wherethe neck should be.In the adult male the chest is bare. In the young males whichI had in captivity it was thinly covered with hair. In the femalethe mammæ have but a slight development, and the breast is bare.The colour of the hair in the female is black, with a decidedtinge of red, and not ringed as in the male. The hair on thearms is but little longer than that on the body, and is of a likecolour. The reddish crown which covers the scalp of the maleis not apparent in the female till she is almost grown up.In both male and female the hair is found worn off the back;but this is only found in very old females. This is occasioned, Isuppose, by their resting at night against trees, at whose basethey sleep.The eyes of the gorilla are deeply sunken, the immense overhanging bony frontal ridge giving to the face the expression ofa constant savage scowl. The mouth is wide, and the lips aresharply cut, exhibiting no red on the edges, as in the humanface. The jaws are of tremendous weight and power. The hugecanines of the male, which are fully exhibited when, in his rage,he draws back his lips and shows the red colour of the inside ofhis mouth, lend additional ferocity to his aspect. In the femalethese canines are smaller.The almost total absence of neck, which gives the head theappearance of being set into the shoulders, is due to the backward position of the occipital condyles, by means of which theskull is set upon the trunk. The brain-case is low and compressed, and the lofty ridge of the skull causes the cranial profile2 A 2356 HEAD AND BODY OF THE GORILLA. CHAP. XX.Gorilla's Head.to describe an almost straight line from the occiput to the supraorbital ridge. The immense development of the temporalmuscles which arise from this ridge, and the corresponding sizeof the jaw, are evidences of the great strength of the animal.The eyebrows are thin, but not well defined, and are almostlost in the hair of the scalp. The eyelashes are thin also. Theeyes are wide apart; the ears are smaller than those of man,and in form closely resemble the human ear. They are almoston the same parallel with the eyes. In a front view of the facethe nose is flat, but somewhat prominent-more so than inany other ape; this is on account of a slightly projecting nosebone. The gorilla is the only ape which shows such a projection, and in this respect it comes nearer to man than any otherof the man-like apes."The profile of the trunk shows a slight convexity. The chestis of great capacity; the shoulders exceedingly broad; the pectoral regions show slightly projecting a pair of nipples, as inthe other apes and in the human species. The abdomen is ofimmense size, very prominent, and rounding at the sides. Thearms have prodigious muscular development, and are very long,extending as low as the knees. The fore-arm is nearly of uniform size from the wrist to the elbow. The great length of thearms and the shortness of the legs form one of the chief devia-CHAP. XX. LIMBS OF THE GORILLA. 357tions from man. The arms are not so long when comparedwith the trunk, but they are so in comparison with the legs.These are short, and decrease in size from below the knee tothe ankle, having no calf. The superior length of the arm(humerus) in proportion to the fore-arm, brings the gorilla, inthat respect, in closer anthropoid affinities with man than anyof the other apes.The hands of the animal, especially in the male, are of immense size, strong, short, and thick. The fingers are short andof great size, the circumference of the middle finger at the firstjoint being in some gorillas over six inches. The skin on theback of the fingers, near the middle phalanx, is callous and verythick, which shows that the most usual mode of progression ofthe animal is on all-fours, and resting on the knuckles. Thethumb is shorter than in man, and not half so thick as the forefinger. The hand is hairy as far as the division of the fingers,those, as in man, being covered with short thin hairs. The palmof the hand is naked, callous, and intensely black. The nailsare black, and shaped like those of man, but smaller in proportion, and projecting very slightly beyond the ends of the fingers. They are thick and strong, and always seem much worn .The hand of the gorilla is almost as wide as it is long, and in thisit approaches nearer to those of man than any of the other apes.The foot is proportionally wider than in man. The sole iscallous and intensely black, and looks somewhat like a gianthand of immense power and grasp. The transverse wrinklesshow the frequency and freedom of movement of the two jointsof the great toe, proving that they have a power of grasp. Themiddle toe, or third, is longer than the second and fourth, thefifth proportionally shorter, as in man.The toes are divided into three groups, so to speak. Insidethe great toe, outside the little toe, and the three others partlyunited by a web. The two joints of the great toe measured, inone specimen, six and a half inches in circumference. As awhole, the foot of the gorilla presents a great likeness to thefoot of man, and by far more so than in any other ape. In noother animal is the foot so well adapted for the maintenance ofthe erect position. Also, the gorilla is much less of a treeclimber than any other ape. The foot in the gorilla is longerthan the hand, as in man, while in the other apes the foot is358 THE CHIMPANZEE. CHAP. XX.somewhat shorter than the hand. The hair on the foot comesto the division of the toes. With the exception of the big toe,the others present a great likeness to those of man, being freeonly above the second phalanx; they are slightly covered withthin hair and free.Of the chimpanzee ( Troglodytes niger), an animal long thoughnot very thoroughly known to naturalists, I regret that I havenothing new to state. Though found in almost all the regionswhich I visited, it is everywhere very rare, except near theDanger, Gaboon, and Cape Lopez countries . I killed one andsaw another in my Cape Lopez expedition; and, in my formerdays in Africa, I for a short time owned two young living speciBoth of these died, however, before I was able to makeany observations upon their peculiarities. The zoological gardens and menageries of Europe have, at different times, hadseveral specimens of the young of this ape.mens.The chimpanzee differs from the gorilla in these chief particulars:-It is a great tree-climber, passing much of its time amongthe branches of the great trees of tropical Africa. It is, thoughuntameable when grown, still not fierce and malign like thegorilla. It has never been known to attack man, and its youngare tractable and easily tamed. While the gorilla resists man,the chimpanzee flies to the densest woods: it is thereforehunted with even greater difficulty than the gorilla.Like its great congener, it is not gregarious. The youngconsort in small companies, but the adults go in pairs or singly.The young have a yellow face, which changes to an intenseblack as they grow older. They are difficult to keep in a stateof captivity, dying almost invariably of consumption or dysentery.I do not know of an instance of an adult chimpanzee beingcaught alive, and think, on account of their shyness and activity,it would be a very difficult animal to capture. Here I may observe that, though the negroes are very ingenious in their contrivance of traps for nearly all the greater beasts of the forest,catching by various devices not only the elephant, hippopotamus,antelope, but even the leopard, I know of no case in which anape of any kind was caught in this way. They must kill the mother in order to capture the young.The chimpanzee is remarkable for its unusually wide geo-

NSHIEGO MBOUVÉ AND YOUNG.(Troglodytes calvus. )2~2aCHAP. XX. THE NSHIEGO MBOUVÉ. 359· graphical range. It is found from the Gambia in almost everydegree of latitude down to the parallel of St. Philipe Benguela.The greatest part of this large region is densely wooded, whichis necessary for the animal's existence; but there are very considerable variations in the climate, such as the other apes do notseem to bear.Its food consists of berries, leaves, and nuts. So far as I havebeen able to ascertain, it builds no shelter like the nshiegombouvé. In the Cape Lopez country I examined and inquireddiligently, but could find no trace of any such habit, althoughthe negroes are familiar with the animal. In the Gabooncountry the chimpanzee is called nshiego; in the interior it isknown as the nchèko, a name which very much resembles thatof the leopard-n'gègo.toThe nshiego mbouvé ( Troglodytes calvus) has a much narrowerrange than the chimpanzee, and even than the gorilla. I foundit only in the table-lands of the interior and in the densestforests. I have reason to believe that it is found indifferently inthe haunts of the gorilla in the farther interior, and do not knowthat the two species quarrel. It differs from the gorilla in beingsmaller, milder, far more docile, less strong, and in the singularhabit of building for itself a nest or shelter of leaves amid thehigher branches of trees. I have watched, at different times,this ape retiring to its rest at night, and have seen it climb upits house and seat itself comfortably on the projecting branch,with its head in the dome of the roof, and its arm about the tree.The shelter is made of leaves compactly laid together, so aseasily to shed rain. The branches are fastened to the trunk ofthe tree with vines, in which these forests greatly abound. Theroof is generally from six to eight feet in its greatest diameter,and has the exact shape of an extended umbrella. There aremostly two of these shelters in adjoining trees, from which Iconclude that male and female live together all the year. Theyoung probably stay with the parents till old enough to buildnests of their own. The ingenuity and intelligence shown inthis contrivance always struck me as something quite marvellous.It is certainly something which the gorilla is not at all capable of.The distinctive marks of the T. calvus, those which prove it tobe a separate variety of the chimpanzee, may be stated as follows:its head is bald, and shining black; its temper is not fierce like360 THE KOOLOO- KAMBA. CHAP. XX.the gorilla's; its young is white, while the young gorilla is black, 'and the young chimpanzee yellow. Its head is nearly round, andbullet-formed; the nose is very flat; the ears larger than in thegorilla, but smaller than in the kooloo-kamba and chimpanzee;the eyes sunken; the teeth and canines small when compared withthe gorilla's. The arms reach a little below the knee. The handsare long and slender; the foot shorter than the hand. The toesare free. The callosities on the back of the fingers show thatthis animal goes commonly on all-fours, and rests its weight onthe doubled-up hands. The hair is of one uniform rusty- blackcolour. The male is larger than the female. I have killed anold male whose skeleton seems more powerful than that of anyfemale gorilla I have seen, but I suspect it to have been an uncommonly large specimen, it being much larger than the otheradult specimen I had.I cannot tell if this animal would attack man if it were onlywounded, but I doubt it. Its docility, when young, makes it verystrikingly different from the gorilla. Those I saw ran away assoon as they caught sight of me.Lastly, we come to the kooloo-kamba. This ape, whose singular cry distinguishes it at once from all its congeners in thesewilds, is remarkable, as bearing a closer general resemblance toman than any other ape yet known. It is very rare, and I wasable to obtain but one specimen of it. This is smaller than theHead of Kooloo-kamba.adult male gorilla, and stouter than the female gorilla. Thehead is its most remarkable point. This struck me at once asСНАР. ХХ. EAR OF KOOLOO-KAMBA. 361having an expression curiously like to an Esquimaux or Chinaman. The face is bare and black. The forehead is higher thanin any other ape, and the cranial capacity greater by measurement proportionally to size. The eyes are wider apart thanin any other ape. The nose is flat. The cheek-bones are highand prominent, and the cheeks sunken and " lank. " The ridgeover the eyes is well marked. The muzzle is less prominentand broader than in the other apes. The sides of the face arecovered with a growth of straight hair, which, meeting under thechin like the human whiskers, gives the face a remarkablyhuman look. The arms reach below the knee. The hair on thearms meets at the elbow, growing upwards on the fore-arm and downwards on the arm. The body is hairy. The shoulders arebroad; the hands long and narrow, showing it to be a treeclimber. The arms and hands are very muscular. The abdomenis very prominent, as it is in the gorilla. The ears are verylarge, and are more nearly like the human ear than those of anyEar of Kooloo- kamba.other аре. The subjoined cut is from a drawing made with greatcare from my specimen, and shows this singular ear very correctly.The gorilla has been mentioned by different travellers underthe following names: pongo, by Battel, 1629; ingena, Bowditch,1819; enge-ena, Savage, 1847; enge-ena or inge-ena, GautierLaboulay, 1849; ngena, Ford, 1852; ngina or gina, AdmiralPenaud, 1852; d'jina, Aubry Lecomte, 1854-57. Except"pongo, " all these names are various spellings of the Mpongwename for the gorilla, which is ngena, as given by the Rev. Dr.J. L. Wilson in his Western Africa, ' which I have spelled ngina.362 NATIVE NAMES. CHAP. XX.In the Mpongwe language, as in some of the South Africantongues, most of the words have the prefix of either n or m.The chimpanzee, which I suppose Hanno to have called gorilla,and Pliny gorgo, is called engeco by Battel, 1625; pygmie, byTyson, in his Anatomy of a Pygmie, 1699; chimpanzee, byGravelet, 1738; enjoko, jocko, or petit ourang-outang, by Buffon,1766; pongo, by Buffon, in 1786; inchego, by Bowditch, 1819;enche-eco, by Savage, in 1847; ntchego, by Franquet, in 1852;nchego, by Aubry Lecomte, 1854-57; most of which are variations again of the Camma name, which, according to our Englishmode of spelling, should be, as I have given it, " nshiego. "Nshiego is the negro name for the true chimpanzee; and thenew species, which I first discovered, and to which the nameTroglodytes calvus has been given, they call the nshiego mbouvé-mbouvé meaning in the language of the country another tribeof nshiego or chimpanzee. The Troglodytes kooloo-kamba theyknow as the kooloo-kamba, or simply as the koola. Koolookamba is derived from the verb kamba, to speak, and kooloofrom the two notes it utters.CHAP. XXI. AUTHORITIES. 363CHAPTER XXI.On the bony Structure of the Gorilla and other African Apes.WE come now to consider the anatomy of the great Africanapes; and I propose to speak more especially of those points ofstructure wherein these animals most nearly resemble man. Ishould state here that naturalists have not, thus far, been ableto agree on this question. Some have given to the gorilla thehonour of approximating nearest to man in structure, whileothers reserve this for the chimpanzee. Dr. Jeffries Wyman,the accomplished and distinguished comparative anatomist ofHarvard University, was the first to give a scientific account ofthe cranium and of a part of the skeleton of the gorilla in 1847.To him belongs the honour of having first brought to theknowledge of the scientific world this wonderful animal. In1849, Dr. Wyman gave another description of two additionalcrania of the gorilla. In these memoirs he classified this animalin the genus Troglodytes.In 1848, Professor Richard Owen, the learned Superintendentof the Natural History department of the British Museum, published an account of the gorilla in the Transactions of the Zoological Society of London, and in this he agreed with Dr. JeffriesWyman, and retained the gorilla in the genus Troglodytes. Since1848, that illustrious zootomist has written several memoirs, givingextended definitions of the anatomical structure of the gorilla.Professor Duvernoy and Professor Isidore Geoffroy St. Hilaire,of Paris, have written long memoirs on the comparative anatomyand systematic position of this wonderful animal; and both, aftervery able scientific description, consider the differences in theosteology, dentition, and outward character of the gorilla to be ofsufficient generic importance to create the genus gorilla. Theygive the trivial name of ngina to the animal.Professors Duvernoy, St. Hilaire, and Dr. Jeffries Wymanagree in putting the gorilla below the chimpanzee in its anthropoid character, while Professor Owen is of opinion that the364 ANTHROPOID CHARACTERISTICS OF T. GORILLA. CHAP. XXI.gorilla is nearer akin to man than the T. niger, or chimpanzee,and does not think that the anatomical peculiarities of the animalare sufficient to make a new genus. On this last point hewith Dr. Wyman.agreesThe most important anthropoid characters of the gorilla,which are referred to by Professor Owen in his first memoir, arethe following:-" 1st. The coalesced central margins of the nasals are projected forward, thus offering a feature of approximation to thehuman structure, which is very faintly indicated, if at all, in theT. niger [ or chimpanzee] ." 2nd. The inferior or alveolar part of the premaxillaries, onthe other hand, is shorter and less prominent in the T. gorillathan in the T. niger; and in that respect the larger speciesdeviate less from man." 3rd. The next character, which is also a more anthropoidone, though explicable in relation to the greater weight of theskull to be poised on the atlas, is the greater prominence of themastoid processes in the T. gorilla, which are only representedby a rough ridge in the T. niger."4th. The ridge which extends from the ecto-pterygoid alongthe inner border of the foramen ovale terminates in the T. gorillaby an angle or process answering to that called ' styliform ' orspinous in man, but of which there is no trace in the T. niger.5th. The palate is narrower in proportion to the length inthe T. gorilla, but the premaxillary portion is relatively longerin the T. niger."" *66In 1849, Dr. Wyman, in referring to the above memoir ofProfessor Owen. says, in refutation, and claiming for the chimpanzee a nearer affinity to man: If, on the other hand, weenumerate those conditions in which the enge-ena [gorilla] recedes farther from the human type than the chimpanzee, theywill be found by far more numerous, and by no means lessimportant." The larger ridge over the eyes, and the crest on the top ofthe head and occiput, with the corresponding development of thetemporal muscles, form the most striking features. The premaxillary bones articulating with the nasals, as in the otherquadrumana and most brutes; the expanded portion of the

• Op. cit. , vol . iii . , ' Transactions of the Zoological Society, ' 1848.

CHAP. XXI. PROFESSOR WYMAN'S REMARKS . 365nasals between the frontals, or an additional osseous element ofthis, prove an independent bone; the vertically broader and morearched zygomata, contrasting with the more slender and horizontal ones of the chimpanzee; the more quadrate foramenlacerum of the orbit; the less perfect infra-orbital canal; theorbits less distinctly defined; the larger and more tumid cheekbones; the more quadrangular nasal orifice, which is depressedon the floor; the greater length of the ossa palati; the morewidely-expanded tympanic cells, extending not only to themastoid process, but to the squamous portion of the temporalbones -these would, of themselves, be sufficient to counterbalanceall the anatomical characters of the (enge-ena) gorilla.“ When, however, we add to them the more quadrate outlineof the upper jaws; the existence of much larger and moredeeply-grooved canines; molars with cups on the outer side,longer and more sharply-pointed; the dentes sapientiæ of equalsize with the other molars; the prominent ridge between theouter posterior and the anterior inner cups; the absence of acrista galli; a cranial cavity almost wholly behind the orbits ofthe eyes; the less perfectly-marked depressions for the cerebralconvolutions; and, above all, the small cranial capacity in proportion to the size of the body, no reasonable grounds for doubtremain that the enge-ena occupies a lower position, and consequently recedes farther from man than the chimpanzee. "Professor Wyman goes on to say:"It does not appear that any other bones of the skeletons haveas yet fallen into the hands of any European naturalists. A description of some of the more important of them will be foundin the memoir above referred to, * in which it will be seen thatthere are two anthropoid features of some importance, which goto support the views advanced by Professor Owen.These arethe comparative length of the humerus and ulna, the formerbeing seventeen and the latter only fourteen inches, and theproportions of the pelvis. This last is of gigantic size, and is alittle shorter in proportion to its breadth than in the niger."While the proportions of the ulna and humerus are morenearly human than in the chimpanzee, those of the humerus andfemur recede much farther from the human proportions than theydo in the chimpanzee, as will be seen by the following measures:

• Journal of the Boston Natural History Society, ' vol . v. , p. 417.

366 COMPARISON OF T. GORILLA AND T. NIGER. CHAP. XXI.Humerus.ManChimpanzeeEnge-enaFemur... 15.0.. 10.9.... 18.5.... 11.0.. 17.0 .... 14.0"Thus, in man, the femur is three inches longer than the humerus. In the chimpanzee these bones are nearly of the samelength; and in the enge-ena the humerus is three inches longerthan the femur, indicating, on the part of the enge-ena, a lessperfect adaptation to locomotion in the erect position than in thechimpanzee.'""My own observations have led me to the conclusion that thegorilla walks more often in the erect posture than the chimpanzee, and in this I agree with the conclusion of Professor Owen.In 1853, 1855, and 1859, Professor Owen wrote several verydetailed memoirs upon the entire skeleton, and in these is alwaysof the opinion that the gorilla is the nearest akin to man."Among the closer anthropoid affinities of the gorilla," hesays, " very significant of the closer affinities of the gorilla is thesuperior length of arm (humerus) to the fore-arm, as comparedwith the proportions of those parts in the chimpanzee."In the hind limbs, chiefly noticeable was the first appearance, in a quadrumanous series, of a muscular development ofthe gluteus, causing a small buttock to project over each tuberischii. This structure, with the peculiar expanse (in quadrumana)of the iliac bones, leads to an inference that the gorilla mustnaturally, and with more ease, resort occasionally to station andprogression on the lower limbs than any other ape. " *This statement, as quoted above, agrees entirely with my ownobservations.

• * * *

"The arms in man reach to below the middle of the thigh;in the gorilla they reach nearly to the knee, and in the chimpanzee, they reach below the knee. The humerus inthe gorilla, though less long, compared with the ulna, than inman, is longer than in the chimpanzee." †"The scapulæ are broader in the gorilla than in the chimpanzee, and come nearer to the proportion of that bone in man. Buta more decisive resemblance to the human structure is presentedby the iliac bones. In no other ape than the gorilla do they

' On the Classification and Geographical Distribution of the Mammalia,etc., etc. , ' 1859, pp. 70 and 71.+ Ibid. , p. 78.CHAP. XXI. FOOT OF THE GORILLA. 367bend forward so as to produce a pelvic concavity; nor are theyso broad, in proportion to their length, in any ape as in thegorilla.

• *

"The lower limbs, though characteristically short in the gorilla, are longer in proportion to the upper limbs, and also to theentire trunk, than in the chimpanzee.But theguiding points of comparison here are the heel and the hallux(great toe, or thumb of the foot)." The heel in the gorilla makes a more decided backwardprojection than in the chimpanzee; the heel-bone is relativelythicker, deeper, more expanded vertically at its hind end, besidesbeing fully as long as in the chimpanzee: it is in the gorillashaped and proportioned more like the human calcaneum thanin any other ape.66

• *

Although the foot be articulated to the leg with a slight inversion of the sole, it is more nearly plantigrade in the gorillathan in the chimpanzee.

"The great toe, which forms the fulcrum in standing or walking, is, perhaps, the most characteristic peculiarity in the humanstructure; it is that modification which differentiates the footfrom the hand, and gives the character of his order (Bimana).In the degree of its approach to this development of the hallux(big toe), the quadrumanous animal makes a true step in affinityto man.

• * *

" In the chimpanzee and gorilla the hallux reaches to the endof the first phalanx of the second toe, but in the gorilla it isthicker and stronger than in the chimpanzee. In both, however,it is a true thumb by position, diverging from the other toes, inthe gorilla, at an angle of 60° from the axis of the foot. ” *" In the greater relative size of the molars compared with theincisors, the gorilla makes an important closer step towards manthan does the chimpanzee. * * * *"In the chimpanzee the four lower incisors occupy an extentequal to that of the first three molars, * while in *man the four are equal to the two first molars and half of thethird. In this comparison, the term molar is applied to the bicuspid. †"The proportion of the ascending ramus to the length of thelower jaw tests the relative affinity of the tailless apes to man.

• Owen, pp. 79, 80. † Ibid. , p. 83.

368 RELATIVE POSITION OF THE APES. CHAP. XXI."In a profile of the lower jaw, compare the line drawn vertically from the top of the coronoid process to the horizontallength along the alveoli: in man and the gorilla it is about seventenths, in the chimpanzee six-tenths."Every legitimate deduction from a comparison of cranial characters makes the tailless quadrumana recede from the humantype in the following order: gorilla, chimpanzee, orang, gibbon.'Professor Isidore Geoffroy St. Hilaire makes a new genus forthe gorilla, which he has named Gorilla, and has called the onlyspecies of the genus thus named ngina. This arrangement hebases on the following structural peculiarities:-†" L'étude de la conformation générale de la tête chez le gorille,des proportions des membres, et par conséquent des conditionsgénérales de la station et de la progression, celle de la conformation de ses mains, et de la structure des mâchelières inférieures,nous ont également conduit à cette conclusion, confirmée enoutre par un grand nombre de faits secondaires."Le gorille n'appartient pas au genre Troglodytes; il constitueun genre distinct, genre auquel restera sans doute appliqué lenom que j'ai proposé pour ce singe quelques jours après son arrivée en France-Gorille (gorilla) ."Les caractères principaux de ce genre peuvent être ainsi résumés:" 1. Tête arrondie dans le jeune âge. Tête très-allongée ettrès-deprimée, à l'état adulte, les crêtes cranienes très-saillantes.Conques auriculaires petites et de forme humaine."Membres anterieurs longs (but much less than in the orangs andgibbons), leur extremité atteignant l'animal debout le milieu dela jambe.6"Mains antérieures larges. Ce caractère sépare bien plus encore le gorille de l'orang que du chimpanzée.' La paume enparticulier presque aussi large que longue (de proportion presqueexactement humaine; les doigts courts, relativement à ceux del'homme et du chimpanzée) .66 Mains posterieures allongées, les trois doigts intermédiaires(chez le mâle) réunis par des téguments jusqu'à la secondefalange;ongles des quatre mains très-applatis comme chez l'homme et lechimpanzée seuls.

• Owen, p. 84.

6† See page 37, Archives du Muséum d'Histoire Naturelle,' tom. x.liv. i. et ii .CHAP. XXI. PLACE OF THE GORILLA. 369" Les canines enormes, les incisores presque rangé en lignedroite, les trois mâchelières inférieures allongées d'avant en arrière,et à talon." Les caractères qui sont indiqués en italiques sont ceux quedistinguent particulièrement le genre gorilla du genre troglodytes."For these and other reasons, Professor St. Hilaire makes ofthe gorilla the genus " Gorilla," and places it nearer the Simians insome respects than the Troglodytes niger. His arrangement ororder is as follows:-hom*o, Troglodytes, Gorilla, Simia, Hylobates.I must own that, at first sight, judging from the living specimen and from its cranium, the gorilla presents all the featuresof a far more bestial animal than the T. calvus, T. kooloo-kamba,T. niger, or the orang. All the features ofthe gorilla, especiallyin the male, are exaggerated; the head is longer and narrower;the brain is backward; the cranial crests are of immense size;the jaws are very prominent, and show great power; the caninesare very large. The proper cavity of the brain is marked bythe immense occipital ridges. But the remainder of the skeletonof the gorilla comes much nearer to that of man than that ofany other ape.And, after a careful examination of the osteological facts whichhave been mentioned; after having observed the live gorilla andstudied carefully its mode of progression, I came to the conviction that in its mode of progression the gorilla is the nearestakin to man of all the anthropoid apes.In size the gorilla varies as much as does man. Adult malegorillas measure from five feet two inches to six feet two inches.Part of a skeleton, in the possession of Dr. Wyman, shows thatthe animal might have reached the latter size when extended onthe ground in a perfectly straight position; but as the gorilla isunable to stand perfectly upright, the legs being somewhat bentand the body thrown forward, the largest specimen would notappear higher than five feet nine inches.To show the reader the contrast between the bony structureof man and the gorilla, I place diagrams of their skeletons sideby side on the following page. The accompanying table ofmeasurements shows the points of similarity and of difference: —2 B370 COMPARISON OF SKELETONS. СПАР. ХХІ.Man hasSkeletons of Man and the Gorilla.12 (and sometimes 13) pairs of ribs.12 dorsal (and sometimes 13) vertebræ7 cervical vertebræ.5 lumbar (sometimes 4)5 sacral8 carpal (wrist) bones.The Gorilla has13 pairs of ribs.7 cervical vertebræ.13 dorsal do.do. 3 lumbar do.do. 6 sacral do.8 carpal (wrist) bones.

2.Gorilla ,male .1.Man ,Caucasian .3.Gorilla ,female .4.Kooloo -kamba . .55-facial angle ,Mbouvé Nshiego 5.SKULLS FROM PHTOGRAPHS .-PLATE I.6.Chimpanzee .CHAP. XXI. ANTHROPOID CHARACTER OF SKELETON. 371The T. calvus has sometimes fourteen pairs of ribs. Man hassometimes thirteen pairs of ribs; but what are termed ribs arevertebral elements, which are so called when long and free, asin the dorsal vertebræ, which are not distinguished from theprocesses with which they are anchylosed in the lumbar vertebræ. The cervical series departs most from that of man.All the African apes possess the same number of vertebræ asman.The gorilla skeleton, the skull excepted, resembles the bonyframe of man more than that of any other anthropoid ape. Inthe form and proportions of the pelvis, the number of ribs, thelength ofthe arm, the width of the hand, and the structure andarches of the feet-all these characteristics, and also some of itshabits, appear to me to place the gorilla nearer to man thanany other anthropoid ape is placed.Among all the anthropoid apes, the number of teeth corresponds with that in the human species, but the canines aremuch larger, especially in the male gorilla. The incisors alsoare large. In the ape the bicuspids are implanted by threedistinct fangs, two external and one internal, and the externalone is divided. In man they are implanted by one externaland one internal; and in the Caucasian race the two fangs aresometimes united.The skull (No. 18) is that of a gorilla shedding his milk-teeth.The upper milk incisors have fallen, and the four permanentones of that jaw are making their appearance, while in the lowerjaw the two lateral deciduous or milk incisors are yet firmly inplace, though the two central incisors of the second dentitionhave made their appearance and are half-grown.The milk or first canines are yet firmly in place in bothjaws, and, on extracting one of them, the germ of the second orpermanent tooth is scarcely discoverable. On withdrawing oneof the milk molars of the lower jaw, the rudiments of the bicuspids, or permanent teeth which replace them, are perceptible.The first permanent molar of the lower jaw is in place and use,and the second is coming into place; but the third, or wisdomtooth, is still completely inclosed within the jaw. In the upperjaw, the milk molars are undisturbed, and but little worn; and,as in the lower jaw, the first permanent molar is in place and2 B 2372 DENTAL ARRANGEMENT. CHAP. XXI.use; while the sccond is emerging, and the third is still completely inclosed in its socket.The intermaxillary suture is very distinct throughout its wholelength in this skull.The large ridge over the eyes and the crest on the top of thehead (Nos. 2 and 8 ), and extending over upon the occiput, together with the corresponding development of the temporal musclesand the large canines, are the main outward characters whichseem to remove the gorilla farther from man than the chimpanzee,and give to this animal so ferocious a look. One of the remarkable features in the skulls of gorillas is the great variation in theheight of the crest on the top of the head and occiput. Sometimes a skull less powerful than any other will have a higherridge, and if this higher ridge belong to a rather young male thecrest will not be so thick. The crest in the gorilla becomesrounder on the edges as the animal grows older.But in the female gorilla the canines are not much larger, inproportion to the relative size of the animals, than in the chimpanzee; the frontal and occipital ridges of the head are butslightly marked (Nos. 3 and 7) .In the female gorilla " with the red rump, " the head of whichseems somewhat deformed, the space between the eyes is muchnarrower (No. 17) .The skulls of the T. niger, or chimpanzee (Nos 6 and 12) ,and T. calvus (nshiego mbouvé) (No. 5) , are smaller and rounderthan that of the gorilla, and show more capacity relatively totheir size than that of the male gorilla, but I think not muchmore than that of the female gorilla. That of the kooloo- kamba(Nos. 4 and 10) has perhaps a greater relative capacity than anyother of the apes.The corresponding small amount of brain in the male gorilla,and the excessive preponderance of the cerebellum or backbrain, with its enormous strength, would seem to corroborateour opinion of the excessive brutality of this beast.The changes which occur in the development of the femalegorilla's skull from early youth to adult life are not so great byfar as they are in the male gorilla's skull, which may be calleda complete metamorphosis.The skulls of young gorillas, female and male, and of the

7.Gorilla ,female -facial angle 51. 8.Gorilla ,male -facial angle 49. 9.Man ,Caucasian -facial angle 86.10. Kooloo -kamba facial angle ,57. angle ,75.11. Negro -facial facial angle ,54.12. Chimpanzee -SKULLS FROM PHTOGRAPHS .-PLATE IICHAP. XXI. COMPARISON OF CRANIAL CAPACITY. 373young of the chimpanzee and other apes, are much alike, andcould hardly be recognized one from another (Nos. 13, 15, and16) . When young, the head is more round and more human.As the animals grow older, the occiput becomes long and compressed; the muzzle large and projecting; the frontal ridge,which was small, prominent; and the crests and occipital ridges,which are not seen in the young, become enormous in the adultmale gorilla. These appear to be, as they doubtless are, aneffectual defence of the monstrous skull against the dangers offerocious conflicts; but the chief purpose which they serve, is forthe attachment of the powerful temporal muscles which movethe enormous jaws.By the following tables of measurements the reader can forman idea of the comparative cranial capacity of the different apesof Africa. The measurements are by my friend ProfessorJeffries Wyman, of Boston.CRANIAL CAPACITY OF ADULT CHIMPANZEE, NSHIEGO, AND KOOLOO-KAMBA.I. ChimpanzeeAuthority.Dr. J. Wyman.II. ""III . 22IV. Nshiego mbouvé.V. Kooloo-kambaVI. ChimpanzeeVII. Nshiego mbouvé VIII. "" mbouvé (young)Cubic Inches.2624 ""22 ""22 ""25 ""2018 ""21 ""From this it will be seen that the cranial capacity of thekooloo-kamba and nshiego mbouvé is intermediate betweenthe two extreme measurements of the chimpanzee.CRANIAL CAPACITY OF GORILLA.I. MaleII. ""III. ""IV. ""V. 22VI. FemaleVII. MaleVIII.IX.""22X. Male:

:

Authority.Dr. J. Wyman.Cubic Inches.34.5 ....28.3 ..28292629.52732::::

""99""""")32.630.3........Dr. S. Kneeland.Dr. J. Wyman.Prof. Owen.Dr. J. Wyman.374 INFERIORITY OF T. GORILLA.CRANIAL CAPACITY OF GORILLA-continued.CHAP. XXI.XI. FemaleXII. ""XIII. ""XIV. ""XV. Gorilla with red rump ..(young, shedding teeth) .Cubic Inches.2524 ...... 29.620.519.5 ....I. and III . were obtained by Dr. George S. Perkins .II. and XI. were obtained by Dr. T. S. Savage.VII. was obtained by the Rev. J. L. Wilson.Authority.Dr. J. Wyman.""99991IV. , V., VI. , XII. , XIII. , XIV. , XV. , are from my own collection.VIII. was obtained by the Rev. William Walker.IX. is in the Hunterian Museum in London.Average of ten males""99MaximumMinimumthree femalesthirteen adultsCubic Inches... 29.7026.0028.8534.0524.00No. XI. is deformed, and is therefore not referred to in the averages.As an interesting contrast, I will give a summary of themeasurements of a vast number of crania by Dr. S. G. Morton,of Philadelphia, giving in cubic inches the average capacity ofsome of the different families of the human race. *The average capacity of the adult negro and Australian brainis 75 cubic inches. The lowest capacity, 65 and 63 cubic inches,was found among the Hottentots and Australians. The averagecapacity of thirteen adult gorillas was but 28.85 cubic inches.This is an incontestable proof of the great ascendancy of theintellectual life of the human species, even in the lower ordersof the human family, which increases gradually, and possesses anactivity of nutrition which tends to the continual development ofthat organ as long as the ossification and the sutures of thecranium are not complete, which is not the case until manhas attained the adult age; while even after that period it isknown that the brain increases sometimes in weight. Thedifference of size of brain or cranial capacity between the highestape and the lowest man is much greater than between the highestape and the lowest ape. In the gorilla the range is only from

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Catalogue of skulls of man and inferior animals in the collection ofSamuel George Morton, M.D., ' 3rd edition, Philadelphia, 1849 .

13. Nshiego Mbouvé young ,.14. Australian -facial angle ,75.65.15. Nshiego Mbouvé -facial angle , 16. Gorilla ,young -facial angle 63. 17. Gorilla ,redump -facial angle ,51.SKULLS FROM PHTOGRAPHS .-PLATE III18. Gorilla ,shedding teeth -facial angle ,52.CHAP. XXI. SKULL OF T. KOOLOO-KAMBA. 37524 to 35 including both sexes, and from 18 to 26 in the varietiesof chimpanzees; but from 35, in the ape, the capacity expandsat once to 63 in the lowest human cranium. The variation ofsize of brain is considerable in the human species; but theposition and the quality of the brain have more to do with theintellectual manifestations.The average weight of the brain of a child of four years, ofthe Caucasian race, having its first teeth, is 38 to 40 ounces.There are no measurements for this age. The average capacityof the adult Caucasian skull is 92 cubic inches, and the maximum is 114 inches. The average weight of a brain of a maleCaucasian is 4 lbs. troy.The cranial capacity of a young gorilla or nshiego mbouvé isfrom 20 to 22 cubic inches-supposing a subsequent developmentequal in measure to that in man this would produce an animal ofahigh grade of intelligence. But this development does not takeplace. The actual increase in brain, in the adult gorilla (orother anthropoid apes), over the young, is very slight. Thehead increases in size and weight with age; but it is the bones,which grow into a hard, firm brain-case; the brain itself remainsalmost without increase in weight or size. This proves conclusively that the animal has very limited powers of intelligence;and, from my own observations, I believe that the limit of thatintelligence may be reached in a single year of its life.Comparing the skeletons of the T. calvus, or nshiego mbouvé,and T. kooloo-kamba with the T. niger, it does not strike methat their differences are of generic importance, but onlyvarieties; especially when it is remembered how much individual gorillas differ in size and in proportions.The skull of the kooloo-kamba is much broader than that ofeither the chimpanzee or T. calvus. In the kooloo-kamba theincisors strike squarely upon each other, and present a broadgrinding surface.Measured from the supra-orbital ridge above the eyes backward to the occipital ridge, the plane dividing that section of theskull would have more than one-third of the brain superior tothat line. The inter- temporal diameter is greater in proportionthan in either the gorilla, the chimpanzee, or the T. calvus.The kooloo-kamba skull being placed in situ upon the lower jaw,376 MAN AND THE APES. CHAP. XXI.the whole head preserves, unsustained, its erect position; butthis is also true of some of the Gorillas and nshiego mbouvé.The peculiar development of the cheek-bones gives a greatbreadth to the face; the muzzle is not so prominent as in theother apes; the head is rounder; the capacity of the craniumis greater than the nshiego mbouvé, as shown by the table ofmeasurement of the crania. The skull approaches somewhatnearer in shape to the human skull. The width of the pelvis isgreater than its height, but it has somewhat the general form ofthat of the chimpanzee and the nshiego mbouvé, but in thesetwo the height of the pelvis exceeds its width.There are two points of great difference I must remark on,which still farther establish, in my opinion, the vast chasm whichlies between even the lowest forms of the human race and thehighest of the apes. One of these is that, in the apes, thevertebral column has a single curvature in the form of a bow,and is thus enabled to act like an elastic spring, which preservesthe animal from sudden shocks in running or leaping on allfours; while in man the spinal column has three oppositecurvatures, which answer the same purpose so long as the bodyis in the erect position, but are not calculated for progression on all- fours. Moreover, the mode of articulation of thehead with the spinal column obliges man to maintain himselferect, while in the ape it is such that the head must be thrownbackwards when in an erect position, in order to maintain thebalance of the body; and I have frequently observed the factthat the gorilla is not able to preserve himself for any considerable length of time in an erect posture.In man, therefore, both the position of the head and thecurves of the vertebral column make the erect posture the onlynatural one, and any other is quite painful, even if assumedonly for a short time; and this difference is an organic one,resulting, not from the force of habit, but from a difference inoriginal structure.The whole framework of man proclaims that he is created tocarry himself erect; and, unlike all the quadrumana, his superior extremities do not perform any service in the act of locomotion.Then comes the head, with its enormous expansion of theCHAP. XXI. DIFFERENCE IN STRUCTURE OF BRAIN. 377brain. The condyles of the occiput are brought forward to thebase of the skull, and by this the balance of the head on theneck-bone, which has a slight tendency forward. The arms inman are in more symmetrical proportion with the length of thelegs. The femur in man is longer in proportion to the leg thanin any other animal; the lower limbs (legs) are longer than inany ofthe apes; the pelvis is broader than it is long; the iliacbones are bent forward; the humerus is longer than the forearm; the thumb is much longer than in any ape, and is themost useful member of the hand.Another point is made by Dr. P. Gratiolet, in a very ablepaper, read before the Société d'Anthropologie of Paris, on microcephalus considered in its relations to the characteristics of thehuman race. In this able paper he has the following remarks:-"The study of the brain of microcephalic persons [or smallbrained persons] has provided me with other elements, by theaid of which the absolute distinction of man is evidently andanatomically proved. In comparing attentively the brain ofmonkeys with that of men, I have found that, in adult age, thearrangement of cerebral folds is the same in one group as in theother; and, were we to stop here, there would be no sufficientground for separating man from animals in general; but thestudy of development calls for an absolute distinction. "Speaking of the anatomical development and structure ofthe brain, he then continues:-" In fact, the temporo- sphenoidalconvolutions appear first in the brain of monkeys, and are completed by the frontal lobe, while precisely the inverse ordertakes place in man; the frontal convolutions appear first, thetemporo-sphenoidal show themselves last; thus the same seriesis repeated in the one case from a to w, in the other from w to a.From this fact, rigorously verified, a necessary consequencefollows: no arrest in the progress of development could possiblyrender the human brain more similar to that of monkeys thanit is at the adult age; far from that, it would differ the morethe less it were developed."Thus we see that, even in the lowest idiots, the brain preserves the material and zoological characters of man; and,though often inferior in appearance to that of the chimpanzee,378 STRONG LINE OF DEMARCATION. CHAP. XXI.gorilla, or orang, is nevertheless an undeniable human brain.Disease, or degradation in continued reproduction (astheniogeny),may dwarf a man, but will never make of him an ape; and,moreover, modern observations have demonstrated that idiotsdo not breed.Though there is a great dissimilarity between the bony frameof man and that of the gorilla, there is also an awful likeness,which, in the gorilla, resembles an exaggerated caricature of ahuman being. With the knowledge of the anthropoid apes whichnow exists, derived from the critical examinations of their osteology, their dentition, by various observers, such as Geoffroy,Tiedeman, Cuvier, Owen, Wyman and others, it is easy to seethe anatomical peculiarities belonging to the anthropoid apes;and these peculiarities constitute so wide a gap, that the greatestdifferences between the most degraded tribes of the humanrace and the highest type of a Caucasian are very slight incomparison, as the reader will perceive in Nos. 1 , 9, 11 , and 14,which represent the Caucasian, Australian, and Negro.Finally, let me say that, in the country which I explored, thegorilla, and all the other man-like apes peculiar to Africa, arefound roaming in the same forests that are inhabited by the natives,and both live in proximity to each other. While there I haveinquired patiently and thoroughly about the strange stories toldby the natives of the apes carrying away people- stories which,I must admit, they firmly believe, as they believe any of theother stories mentioned in my narrative about women givingbirth to elephants, crocodiles, hippopotamus, antelopes, &c. &c.But when called to give me proof, it turned out that the storieshad always happened to some persons that had died—some formerancestress. Still the stories have been handed from generationto generation, impressing themselves deeply on the superstitious minds of the natives, who delight in the mystical andwonderful. Particularly while I resided among the tribesfound in the mountains near the banks of the Ovenga river,where the gorilla is rather more common than anywhere else,I searched in vain if an intermediate race, or rather severalintermediate races or links between the natives and the gorilla,could be found; and I must say here that I made thoseinquiries conscientiously, with the sole view of bringing beforeCHAP. XXI. MEASUREMENTS OF SKELETON OF T. GORILLA. 379science the facts which I might collect. But I have searchedin vain: I found not a single being, young or old, who couldshow an intermediate link between man and the gorilla, whichwould certainly be found if man had come from the ape. I suppose from these facts we must come to the conclusion that manbelongs to a distinct family from that of the ape. The firstbelonging to the order Bimana, and the latter to the otherquadrumanous series.I close this chapter with the following tables of measurements.of the gorilla skeleton, carefully made from one of my mostperfect specimens, an adult male, which, when first shot, measured five feet eight inches in extreme length.MEASUREMENTS OF THE GORILLA'S SKELETON.Lower Jaw.Inches...Length of the inferior maxillary bone, from the inferior angle of the ramus to the canine tooth .... 6Do. to the median line, measured around to a point between the middle incisors 7Perpendicular height of the ramus of the jaw 4Greatest breadth of do. 23Length of alveolus (in a straight line of the teeth)Width across the jaw from the outer margin of the last molarsDo. do. at the canine or bicuspids ..Upper Jaw.Length of alveolus from the last molar to the canineDo. do. around to the median lineBreadth across the jaw at the molarsDo. do. at the extremities of canine

314123271Skull.Diameter of nasal aperture 13Distance from lower margin of do. to the margin of the eye- socketWidth of the face, measured across the eyes to the outer margins of thelateral orbital ridges·· 351Width of the face, measured at the molar protuberances 612Depth of the eye- socket to the optic foramen .. 27Greatest length of the face, measured in a straight line from the summitof the orbital ridge to the lowest point of the chin 71MIN380 MEASUREMENTS OF SKELETON OF T. GORILLA. CHAP. XXI.Distance from the base of the nose to the top of the orbital ridge on the Inches.median line ..Distance from do. to the outer angle of do.213Distance on the median line from the middle incisor of the upper jawto the foramen magnum (spinal opening) 7Diameter of the foramen magnum or spinal openingFa 12Distance from the posterior margin of that opening to the lateral termination of the occipital crest 3ངསDistance on the median line, measured from the middle incisor of theupper jaw across the spinal opening to the outer point of the occipitalcrest 124Transverse diameter of the base of the skull from the mastoid protuberances 6Length of the occipital crest on its summit 11Greatest height of this crest, measured perpendicularly from the surface of the skull ..Length of the median crest on the top of the skullDistance from the summit of the orbital ridge to the point ofjunctionofthe crests on the occiput(Measured from the highest points of the orbital ridge and the occipital junction of the crests, a line will not touch the skull. )Measurement around the entire skull, within the zygomatic arch, onthe depressed line just posterior to the eye-sockets, and anteriorly to the crestsLateral diameter of the space beneath the zygomatic arches ..Antero-posterior do. do... 11223157Length of Spinal Column.Length of the cervical vertebræ 432"" from first dorsal vertebra to extremity of the sacrum 21Total 261Add for shrinkage of the intervertebral cartilages (nearly one- sixth of total length) .. 42Total length of spine 31Measurements of Thorax.Length along the fourth rib, measured from the spine of its vertebra to the articulation with cartilage 13Length of its dry cartilage 2Breadth of sternum (breast- bone) 13Length of the sixth rib 1599 of cartilage of the sixth rib to its ensiform articulation(dried)47CHAP. XXI. MEASUREMENTS OF SKELETON OF T. GORILLA. 381Pelvis.Greatest breadth of pelvis, from crests of the iliac bonesBreadth of pelvis, measured outwardly and posteriorly from the same points as aboveHeight of pelvis (perpendicular measurement)(sacro-pubic, or antero- posteriorDiameters of pelvic strait oblique .bis-iliac, or transverse ..Upper Extremities.Greatest length of the scapula plateLength measured from coracoid process to the inferior extremity of thescapula .. ..Circumference of the head of the humerusGreatest diameter of the glenoid cavityLength of the humerus to radial articulationInches.1511814611218121841913.. 1515Circumference of the humerus in the middle of its shaft99 at the distal articulation, measured around the condylesLength of radius (fore-arm)Direct length of ulnaLength measured on its outward curvatureLower Extremities... ..Length of femur, measured from the round ligament to the lateralmargin of tibial articulation ..Length measured from summit of the great tuberosity to the lateralmargin of tibial articulation .. ..Length from the round ligament to the superior margin of patellaCircumference of the head of the femur ..Greatest circumference of the femur around the two tuberosities ..Circumference of the neck of the femur ..Circumference of middle of the shaft ..Circumference at the knee, measured over the patellaLength of patella.. 13144.. 123641112Greatest length of tibia ( perpendicular) .Length of fibula from knee to ankle11310The Foot.Greatest length of os calcis 3Circumference of ankle around the os calcis 63Greatest length of foot, measured on top from tibia to extremity of middle toe 732382 MEASUREMENTS OF SKELETON OF T. GORILLA. CHAP. XXI.Length of bones of middle toe from os cuneiforme to extremity of the Inches.toe ..Length of great toe from do.Greatest length of sole of the foot, measured from posterior extremityof os calcis, in a straight line, to the extremity of the middle toe Do. measured in the arch of the foot from do.1614199322The Hand.Length of the hand, from the carpal bones to the extremity of the middle finger .. 81Length of thumb 131100Total length of the dried skeleton ( from the vertex to the sole ) 5 feet 5 inches.The following comparative measurements of the pelvis in thevarious apes are given in inches and hundredths:-Chim- Nshiego panzee- Mbouvé Kooloo- kambaLarge Male Gorilla Gorilla- Female.Male. Male. Male.belonging to Dr. Wyman.Height of pelvis 11.40 11.50 10.90 15.10 10.10Breadth across ilia, outside 10.00 10.80 11.20 17.70 12.10 Antero-posterior diam, of brim 5.20 5.35 5:00 8.00 6.20Oblique 99 "" 4.10 4.25 4.75 6.60 5.60Transverse 3.75 4.00 4.40 6.10 4.20It is right to mention that the facial angles of the skulls, asgiven in the plates, have been taken by the craniometer, aninstrument invented by Professor Quekett, Conservator of theRoyal College of Surgeons, London.CHAP. XXII. THE BAKALAI TRIBE. 383The Bakalai ----CHAPTER XXII.--- - Extent of Region in which they are met with — Qualities ·Reasons for Intermixture of Tribes -The Bakalai are Rovers -Fear ofDeath - Old People abandoned Treachery Case of RetaliationWomen- palavers — Arbitration A Fetich Palaver -Appearance of the―Bakalai ----Property Duties of a Wife Restrictions on Marriage -Slaves Costume -Grass- cloth -Hunters -Fishing - Great Traders—Diseases Leprosy - Music.BEFORE resuming the narrative, I think it well to give thereader some account of the Bakalai, the people among whom Ihad spent now so many months in hunting and exploration.They are one of the most numerous, widely extended, and important tribes I met with in Equatorial Africa. From the Munion the north to the Fernand Vaz on the south, and from theseashore to the Apingi country, I met with settlements of Bakalai.To the north they approach the seashore, and live on the rivers;but, as I made my way south, I found that they receded fromthe ocean, and were met farther inland. Their settlements arewidely scattered, and they are often found living in independenttowns in regions chiefly occupied by other tribes. Howfar theyreach inland I cannot tell. To the Ashira they were known asneighbours, and even the Apingi pointed eastward towards theunknown centre of the continent when I inquired for Bakalai.BeOn the Rembo they are so entirely an inland people that theydid not know much even of the management of canoes.tween the Gaboon and Corisco some of them live on the banksof the rivers, as I have said, and are extraordinary boatmen;but, wherever they are, they are great hunters and traders, andtreacherous warriors.The tribes of Western Africa are curiously intermixed, as thereader will have seen ere this from the accounts of my wanderings among them. This happens because the most enterprisingare always striving to get possession of the rivers, which are theonly highways of the country. From these they drive away theweaker tribes, or rather portions of tribes; as on the Ikoi someBakalai had to desert their towns, where they drove a brisk384. THEIR ROVING PROPENSITY. CHAP. XXII.trade, because of the jealous rage of other villages of the sametribe who were stronger, and determined to have the trade intheir own hands. There is nowhere in this region any ownership in land, so that any family of any tribe has a right to settleon any unoccupied territory, and if there is a dispute it is settledby the strong arm.But one of the peculiar traits of the Bakalai, which distinguishes them from other tribes with whom they are intermixed,is their roving character. They never stay long in one place. ABakalai village is scarce built-often the plantations have notborne fruit the first time-when they feel impelled to move.Then everything is abandoned; they gather up what few storesof provisions they may have, and start off, often for great distances, to make with infinite pains a new settlement, which willbe abandoned in turn sometimes after a few months, thoughoccasionally they remain a year or two, and even more, in thesame place. Thus, on the head-waters of the Gaboon and itstributaries, the favourable position for trade obliges them toremain in the same neighbourhood. But even there they shiftfrom one place to another, distant only a mile or two from eachother.Many things contribute to this roving tendency, but first ofall is their great fear of death. They dread to see a dead person. Their sick, unless they have good and near friends, areoften driven out of the village to die in loneliness in the forest.I have twice seen old men thus driven out, nor could I persuadeanyone to give shelter or comfort to these friendless wretches.Once an old man, poor and naked, lean as Death himself, andbarely able to walk, hobbled into a Bakalai village where I wasstaying. Seeing me, the poor old fellow came to beg sometobacco-their most cherished solace. I asked him where hewas going."I don't know. "“ Where are you from?"He mentioned a village a few miles off."Have you no friends there?"66 None.""No son, no daughter, no brother, no sister?""None.""You are sick?"CHAP. XXII.66REMOVAL OF VILLAGES. 385"They drove me away for that.""What will you do?""Die."A few women came up to him and gave him water and a littlefood. But the men saw death in his eyes. They drove himaway. He went sadly, as though knowing and submitting tohis fate. A few days after his poor lean body was found in thewood. His troubles were ended.When a man dies in a Bakalai village the stability of thatsettlement has received a violent shock. If a second dies, thenthe people at once move away. They think the place bewitched; they fancy death, dreaded death, stalking in theirmidst. A doctor is called, who goes through his incantations,and some poor wretch is condemned to drink the mboundou.Often several friendless creatures are accused and condemnedin a breath, and murdered in cold blood. Then the village isbroken up; the people set out again upon their wanderings,and fix upon some lonely spot for new plantations and a newhome.It is as though they were all their lives vainly fleeing fromthe dread face of death. This, indeed, is the refrain of all theirsad songs, the burden of every fear. Having little else to lose,they seem to dread, more than any other people I ever knew,the loss of life. And no wonder; for after death is to themnothing."Death is the end. " " Now we live; by-and-by we shalldie; then we shall be no more. ' "He is gone; we shall neversee him more; we shall never shake his hand again; we shallnever hear him laugh again. " This is the dolorous burden oftheir evening and morning songs.And still, by a strange contradiction, they are extravagantlysuperstitious. Believing that there is no life beyond this, theyyet fancy a ghost or spirit in every moving tree or bush afternight, and in the twilight hour are sometimes overpowered withan undefinable dread, which makes them fear to come even outside their huts.Another cause of fear is their treacherous and quarrelsomedisposition. They are constantly quarrelling with their neighbours. I have already explained the singular ideas they haveof retaliation. Once I was in a village, when, on a sudden, I2 c386 TREACHERY. CHAP. XXII.heard great wailing among the women. I found that twowomen had been killed by some persons unseen, while they werestanding in the creek near by, washing. The murderers werenot known for some days. All was consternation in the village.Then it somehow reached their ears that these women hadbeen killed by men who had come from a village fifty miles off.This village had a palaver or quarrel with one nearer. Theycame down and killed two women of a village which they hadno quarrel with, and this made the villagers, whose relativesthey had thus murdered, their allies. This singular doctrineof alliance seems to be accepted by most of the tribes.Many of their quarrels and palavers arise about women.Polygamy prevails extensively; female chastity is not valued,except as an article of merchandise; the women have greatfreedom and an intriguing spirit, and the consequence is that afaithful wife is an unheard of thing. The crime of adultery witha head-wife, however, is considered a very serious misdemeanour,for which the offender may be heavily fined if he is rich, soldinto slavery if he is poor, or perhaps killed.Now, when a man is caught in such an offence, he makes hisescape, if possible, to the next village. It is considered dishonourable to give up a fugitive, and if he gets safely there heis secure for the time. Then begins quarrelling, succeeded presently by murder; then the curious process of securing alliesbreeds more murder and retaliation, and so in a few days alarge tract of country is interested in a quarrel, and fights andassassinations continue till some villages are almost annihilated,and others are removed afar off, only to be mixed up with newstrifes.When war has really broken out in the country once, there isno rest nor safety. No man or woman in any village can takea step in any direction, day or night, without fear of death.They lay ambuscades to surprise each other's villages. Theyshoot through the tree-bark of which their houses are made, andkill sleeping persons. They use every unfair means of warfare;and the meaner the attack and the greater the treachery, themore glory they have won. In such times of war fires are putout after dark, because they give light to the enemy; the peoplekeep a dead silence, lest their voices should betray their whereabouts; the hunters fear to hunt, the women and slaves toCHAP. XXII. APPEARANCE OF THE BAKALAI. 387plant, and, in consequence, everybody is in a condition of semistarvation. This lasts sometimes for months. At last wholedistricts are depopulated; those who are not killed desert theirvillages, and all, perhaps, because a man in one village stolefrom one in another and refused satisfaction.On the banks of the Rembo Ovenga I found that the Bakalaihad agreed among themselves to settle their quarrels by arbitration. I was much surprised to find that not only was this therule, but the practice. But I found that Quengueza, who ismaster of all this country, and makes his rule felt, was at thebottom of this salutary change. He would not allow them tofight. He understood very well that trade and war could notgo on together; and, though the trade was insignificant from ourpoint of view, it was important to him.While I was in Obindji's town, the Bakalai chiefs and people,to the number of several hundreds, met together to ask justiceon the head of Pendé, Obindji's brother, who was charged withhaving stolen the bones of a dead person to make a fetich,which fetich would keep trade away from a particular town.This palaver was very violent; and I think, if Quengueza hadnot been on the spot, would have ended in bloodshed. Pendédenied having done what he was charged with, and I do not believe that anybody thought him guilty, towards the end of thefuss. Nevertheless, to obtain quiet, the poor fellow had to givethree slaves to the three chiefs who were the principal accusers.The Bakalai are of the ordinary size. The men are generallywell made; some are of small stature; and I have seen amongthem some splendid specimens of manhood. They are notvery black; they have full negro features. They are not verystrong, chiefly, I suppose, because they live poorly; but theyhave great powers of endurance, and on this account make admirable hunters. Considering their numerous superstitions andtheir poor marksmanship, they must be considered brave fellowson the hunt. To face a gorilla, and calmly await his approachtill you know that if you miss him you will certainly be his prey,must be counted an act of no common courage. And this is themanner in which the Bakalai hunt this terrible beast.Wives and slaves are their only property. A man's standingis according to the number of his wives. As soon as a Bakalaihas acquired some European goods in return for ivory or ebony,2 c 2388 COSTUME OF THE BAKALAI. CHAP. XXII.he immediately sets out to buy a new wife. They generallyprefer to marry very young girls; and often young children areregularly bargained away. In this case they remain with theirparents till the age of puberty.When a man has chosen a girl , he calls on her parents andexplains his wishes. They put a price upon her, which he pays,and then the poor girl is turned over to him. The morechildren she has, the more her husband loves her, and thegreater is her importance in the town. The population beingsmall in nearly all the villages, every birth is hailed with joy;and as girls have a money value, they are as highly thought ofas boys, who make hunters and warriors. Few Bakalai womenhave many children. Those who do have their own way in manythings, and are able to tyrannize over their own household andrival wives.The duties of a wife are to labour for her husband, to cookfor him, to work in the fields, and to be generally his beast ofburden and superior slave. When the husband dies, his wivesand slaves are divided among his relatives; his brothers takingpreference, but even his sons inheriting sometimes.It is a curious fact, that, though they will take their brother'sor father's wives in marriage, they will not marry a woman ofthe same family or clan with themselves. This is the case, also,among other tribes.Of slaves the Bakalai have not many. The wants of the whitetraders on the coast, and their own need for white men's goods,make them sell most of those they get to the tribes nearer thecoast. People caught in adultery-particularly with a" head- ""wife -are sold into slavery in certain cases. Those accused ofsorcery are killed or sold into slavery. Also a debtor may besold by his creditor.Their costume is very light. Where they can get Americanor European goods, they so greatly prefer those, because, it maybe supposed, of their rarity, that a Bakalai will wear a filthy ragof cotton print for months without washing, rather than throw itaside for a clean native grass-cloth wrapper. The women areextravagantly fond of European beads, and wear also anklets andbracelets of copper or iron. The rude mat which is worn roundthe middle by the men is made of grass, and very ingeniouslyconstructed. But the fine grass-cloth, some of which is reallyCHAP. XXII. FOOD OF THE BAKALAI. 389beautiful, is not made among them. That they get from theAshira, a people farther inland-or from other interior tribes, ofwhom more will be said farther on.In their general habits it must be admitted that they are veryfilthy. The inland people hardly know what it is to wash. Theyoil themselves frequently; and when the deposit of oil on thewool gets stale, the smell and appearance are very disgustingand nauseating.They are great hunters; but, as game is scarce in this partof the country, gouamba is their natural state. They do anything for meat, and it is horrible to see the voracity with whichthey precipitate themselves on a portion of meat when any isbrought into camp. The few goats and chickens they keep arenot sufficient for their use, and they seem to have no idea ofcultivating them and increasing them. Those who live on theriver have great fishing excursions, which furnish them with aportion of their sustenance. When the rivers recede at theapproach of the dry season, the waters remain behind on theplains in pools. To one of these pools a village of Bakalaiwill come-men, women, and children—and, with earthenwarepots and bowls, empty out the water. The poor fish, forwhom no way of escape is open, struggle vainly against theirenemy, who finally, having thrown out nearly all the water, rushin pellmell and take out the fish . These are killed, and whatare not eaten on the spot are smoked for future use, and thus aconsiderable store is often laid by for a needy time.For hunting, almost all, even of those who live far beyond theregion where white men penetrate, make use of guns andpowder. These are the chief articles of trade, and are mostsought for by the natives everywhere. For the women beads arethe most valued; and even the men do not despise ornaments.They are, like all the tribes of this country, great traders;and, if the rivers were once opened and kept open by whitemen, this eagerness for trade would help much to develop theabundant resources of the country. Before I ascended theRembo the whole river was divided by petty chieftains, whomaintained their trading monopoly, and prevented the seashorepeople from direct trade with the up-river. Now, I prevailedupon Quengueza at last to let the seashore men come up with theirgoods, showing him that the trade would be much greater, and390 LYING PROPENSITY-DISEASES. CHAP. XXII.would really be in his hands; so that now the river is open oneway. Still, no one of the up-river could come past Quenguezato take his goods to the seashore. That would not be permitted, and an attempt to do so would cause war.They are, as a rule, the shrewdest judges of human nature thatever I met with. Lying is thought an enviable accomplishmentamong all the tribes, and a more thorough and unhesitating liarthan one of these negroes is not to be found anywhere. Aman does not, therefore, believe what another says, but watcheshis countenance, and forms his opinions from the other's looks.Now in this species of almost intuitive judgment the Bakalaiexcels all his brethren of the other tribes. Sometimes mencame to Obindji and told him long stories on some subject ofimportance. The old chief would listen gravely and say nothingto the speaker, but presently would come to me and say:"The man lies.'" But how do you know? " I would ask, knowing that theman's story was perfectly straightforward and not at all improbable."I watched his face," was the reply. " We Bakalai watch theface. The words are nothing; but the face tells us. "And, indeed, they are marvellously shrewd physiognomists; noslight advantage to a nation of ardent traders.Of diseases, besides fevers, to which they are subject in certainseasons, the chief are a kind of leprosy, the venereal disease,and a kind of virulent ulcers. These last break out on the armor leg and eat in to the bone. When the disease reaches thebones the patient dies. In leprosy the patient becomes gradually white in the parts attacked, the skin of the body dries upand cracks, suppuration takes place in the centre of the diseasedspots, the extremities of the hands and feet rot away and falloff, and at last the patient dies. In fact, it seems to me thebody is dead and mostly decomposed before the spirit leaves it.Lepers, who are in some regions rather common, are kept in aroom apart in the house; but the people do not seem muchafraid of them. The disease is in certain families, and oftendoes not break out till the unfortunate subject is full-grown.They linger sometimes for years in daily expectation of death.The natives know nothing of a cure. In fact, they have verylittle knowledge of remedies for any disease. When a man isCHAP. XXII. MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. 391sick he is left to nature. If he dies it is witchcraft, andthen the doctor is called in to discover the witch. I have seensome cases, but not many, of the disease called elephantiasis.Scrofula is somewhat prevalent, as it is in many other tribes.Most of these diseases must be attributed to insufficient nourishment and filthy habits.They are fond of music of certain kinds. The tam-tam is thenoisiest instrument, and is used for all dances and ceremonials.But they have also a guitar, and a harp of eight strings-aningenious instrument, on which some of the men play with agood deal of skill; and some of their airs were really pretty,though sad and monotonous. The ombi, as this is called, is asource of great delight to them. Often and often I have heardit played all night, while the crowd of listeners sat in silencearound the fire. While the tam-tam rouses their feelings, andreally throws them into a frenzy, the ombi has a soothing andsoftening effect upon them.Both instruments are called ombi. One, which is shapedlike a banjo or guitar, has but four strings. The other, witheight, is a harp. Both are made of thin pieces of a resonantwood, sometimes covered with snake, gazelle, or goat skin.The strings are the long, fine, fibrous roots of a tree, and answertheir purpose very well. The sound of the ombi with eightstrings is soft and somewhat musical, and is used to accompanythe voice; in such cases the airs are generally plaintive.392 ANXIETIES OF RANPANO. CHAP. XXIII.CHAPTER XXIII.-―Departure for the Interior Meeting of the People — Address of Ranpano - Iam made a Makaga -Use of Quinine — A sick Friend -Death in GoumbiSorcery, and how it is discovered -Great excitement Terrible TragedyThe Victims —The Accusations — The Poison-cup- The ExecutionVisit from Adouma -Sincerity of the Doctors?-Up the River - Manga- hunts - A Manga Doctor -Keeping a Creditor - Querlaouen -An AfricanTragedy - Fight on the River— Towards Ashira -land - The Ashira Plains ―- Splendid View.Ar last I was ready to make another start; my healthrestored, my spirits in some measure recovered, and eager forthe new region.On the 10th of October, 1859, Quengueza was still too weakto travel, so I determined to start without him.Ranpano and his people had been urging me for some timenot to go; and now, when I was all ready, the old king calleda grand palaver, which I attended, and of which the chiefpurpose was to persuade me not to venture into the interior.My good old friend Ranpano was really solicitous about me.He made me an address, in which he informed me that he hadheard the interior people wanted to get me into their power.They wanted to kill me, in order to make a fetich of my hair.They had very many fetiches already, and were very anxious tomake their collection complete--so it appeared.I replied that I had no fear of them; that, so far, I had beenbrought back safely to them, and I was willing to trust my Godagain.Then he said, " We love you.You are our white man(ntangani). What you tell us we do. When you say it iswrong, we do not do it. We take care of your house, yourgoats, your fowls, your parrots, your monkeys. You are thefirst white man that settled among us, and we love you. "To which all the people answered, " Yes, we love him! Heis our white man, and we have no other white man. "Then the king said, " We know that writing talks. WriteCHAP. XXIII. I AM MADE A MAKAGA. 393us, therefore, a letter to prove to your friends, if you do notcome back, that it was not we who hurt you."To this followed various objections to my going, to all ofwhich I was obliged to make grave answers.Finally, when they gave me up, all exclaimed in accents ofwonder, " Ottangani angani (man of the white men)! what isthe matter with you that you have no fear?have no fear? God gave you theheart of a leopard! You were born without fear!"More than a year ago the Camma gave me the title of " makaga," an honourable name, which only one man, and he thebravest and best hunter in the tribe, may bear. The office ofthe makaga is to lead in all desperate affairs. For instance, ifany one has murdered one of his fellow-villagers, and themurderer's town refuses to give him up (which is almost alwaysthe case, they thinking it a shame to surrender anyone who hastaken refuge with them), then it is the business of the makagato take the best men of the villages, lead them to the assault ofthat which protects the murderer, and destroy that, with itsinhabitants. It is remarkable that, in all the Camma country,the murder of a free man is punished with the death of themurderer. My title was rather an honorary one, as I was nevercalled on to execute justice among them.At last Ranpano gave me sixteen men to take me to Goumbi,from where Quengueza's people were to set me on. Makondai,the little fellow who had so bravely accompanied me on my lasttour, asked to be taken again, and I took him gladly. He isa brave, intelligent lad, and, by his care for my coffee and manyother matters, added much to my comfort.Quengueza could not come with us; but he sent orders tohis brother, who reigned in his stead at Goumbi, to give meas many people as I wanted, and to afford me protection as faras I needed it; and specially named Adouma to be the chief ofthe party who were to accompany me to the Ashira country.When all this was done, there was, according to Africancustom, a formal leave-taking. Quengueza's men, Ranpano's,and mine gathered before the old king, who solemnly bade usGod-speed, taking my two hands in his and blowing upon them,as their custom is; saying, " Go thou safely, and return safely."It is now (October) the full rainy season, and not the mostcomfortable for travelling. But it is probably the healthiest,394 TREATMENT OF THE SICK. CHAP. XXIII.and, as for the rest, there is little choice. Besides provisions, Itook with me some wine and brandy to help me in rainy nights,and a goodly quantity of quinine-the one indispensable requisite, without which let no man travel in Western Africa. I knowthe prejudice which exists against this remedy; but I have withinthis last four years taken fourteen ounces, and live as a proofthat it is a useful medicine and a very slow poison.We arrived at Goumbi on the 13th, after meeting with twovery heavy storms of wind and rain on the way. The peopleasked after their king, who had gone away well, and whom, theythought, I ought to have brought back in the same condition.I was asked to go and see an old friend of mine, Mpomo, whowas now sick. They had spent the night before drummingabout his bedside to drive out the devil. But I soon saw thatneither drumming nor medicine would help the poor fellow.The film of death was already in his eyes, and I knew he couldscarce live through the approaching night. He held out hishand to me in welcome, and feebly said, " Chally, save me, forI am dying."He was then surrounded by hundreds of people, most of themmoved to tears at their friend's pitiable condition.I explained to him that I had no power to save him; thatmy life and his were alike in the hands of God; and that heshould commend both body and soul to that one God. But heand all around had the conviction that, if only I wished, I couldcure him. They followed me to my house, asking for medicine;and at last, not to seem heartless, I sent him a restorative—something, at least, to make his remaining moments easy. Atthe same time I warned them that he would die, and they mustnot blame me for his death. This was necessary, for theirignorance makes them very suspicious.When I awoke next morning I heard the mournful wailwhich proclaimed that poor Mpomo was gone to his long rest.This cry of the African mourners is the saddest I ever heard.Its burden is really and plainly, " All is done. There is nohope. We loved him. We shall never see him again. " Theymourn literally as those who have no hope.In the last moments of a Camma man who lies at the pointof death, his head-wife comes and throws herself by him on hisbed. Then, encircling his form with her arms, she sings to himCHAP. XXIII. INCANTATIONS TO DISCOVER A SORCERER. 395songs of love, and pours out a torrent of endearing phrases, allthe village standing by uttering wailings and shedding tears.Such a scene was always very touching to me.When I went to Mpomo's house I saw his poor wives sittingin tears upon the ground, throwing moistened ashes and dustover their bodies, shaving their heads, and rending their clothes.In the afternoon I heard talk of witchcraft.The mourning lasted for two days. On the 17th the body,already in a state of decomposition, was put in a canoe andtaken to the cemetery of the Goumbi people down the riversome fifty miles. It was pitiable to see the grief of his poorwives. They seemed to have really loved him, and sorrowedfor him now that he was dead, as they had carefully and lovinglyattended upon him till he died. I saw them, on the night ofhis death, weeping over him, one after the other taking him inher arms. It was a strange sight. In these sorrowful momentsthere was no sign of jealousy between the poor women, that Icould see. All were united by their love for the same object.Those who have studied the African character, and know howmuch they are given to dissimulation, cannot be certain whetherthe display of love come from real sorrow or not. Of course,every wife ought to appear much distressed, for, should they notshow a profound sorrow they would certainly be accused ofbewitching their husbands. I have even known cases wherethe mother was killed as the cause of the death of her ownchild.On the day Mpomo was buried proceedings were begun todiscover the persons who had bewitched the poor fellow. Theycould not be persuaded that a young man, hale and hearty buta few weeks ago, could die by natural causes. A great doctorwas brought from up the river, and for two nights and days therude scenes which I have already once given an account of wererepeated.At last, on the third morning, when the excitement of thepeople was at its height-when old and young, male and female,were frantic with the desire for revenge on the sorcerers, thedoctor assembled them about him in the centre of the town, andbegan his final incantation, which should disclose the names ofthe murderous sorcerers.Every man and boy was armed, some with spears, some with396 CALLING OUT THE VICTIMS.swords, some with guns and axes, and on everyCHAP. XXIII.face was showna determination to wreak bloody revenge on those who shouldbe pointed out as the criminals. The whole town was rapt inan indescribable fury and horrid thirst for human blood. Forthe first time I found my voice without authority in Goumbi.I did not even get a hearing. What I said was passed by asthough no one had spoken. As a last threat, when I saw proceedings begun, I said I would make Quengueza punish themfor the murders done in his absence . But alas! here they hadoutwitted me. On the day of Mpomo's death they had sentsecretly to Quengueza to ask if they could kill the witches.He, poor man! sick himself, and always afraid of the power ofsorcerers, and without me to advise him, at once sent back wordto kill them all without mercy. So they almost laughed in myface.Finding all my endeavours vain, and that the work of bloodshed was to be carried through to its dreadful end, I determined,at least, to see how all was conducted.At a motion from the doctor, the people became at once quitestill. This sudden silence lasted about a minute, when the loud,harsh voice of the doctor was heard:"There is a very black woman, who lives in a house "-describing it fully, with its location-" she bewitched Mpomo. "Scarce had he ended when the crowd, roaring and screaminglike so many hideous beasts, rushed frantically for the placeindicated. They seized upon a poor girl named Okandaga, thesister of my good friend and guide Adouma. Waving theirweapons over her head, they tore her away towards the waterside. Here she was quickly bound with cords, and then allrushed away to the doctor again.As poor Okandaga passed in the hands of her murderers, shesaw me, though I thought I had concealed myself from view.I turned my head away, and prayed she might not see me. Icould not help her. But presently I heard her cry out,Chally, Chally, do not let me die! "66It was a moment of terrible agony to me. For a minute Iwas minded to rush into the crowd and attempt the rescue ofthe poor victim. But it would have been of not the slightestThe people were too frantic and crazed to even noticemy presence. I should only have sacrificed my own life withoutuse.CHAP. XXIII. RECITAL OF CHARGES, 397'helping her. So I turned away into a corner behind a tree,and I may confess, I trust-shed bitter tears at my utterpowerlessness.ItPresently silence again fell upon the crowd. Then the harshvoice of the devilish doctor again rang over the town.seemed to me like the hoarse croak of some death-foretellingraven:"There is an old woman in a house "-describing it—" shealso bewitched Mpomo."Again the crowd rushed off. This time they seized a nieceof King Quengueza, a noble-hearted and rather majestic oldwoman. As they crowded about her with flaming eyes andthreats of death, she rose proudly from the ground, looked themin the face unflinchingly, and, motioning them to keep theirhands off, said, " I will drink the mboundou; but woe to myaccusers if I do not die! "Then she, too, was escorted to the river, but without beingbound. She submitted to all without a tear or a murmur formercy.Again, a third time the dreadful silence fell upon the town,and the doctor's voice was heard:"There is a woman with six children. She lives on a plantation towards the rising sun. She, too, bewitched Mpomo. "Again there was a furious shout, and in a few minutes theybrought to the river one of Quengueza's slave-women, a goodand much-respected woman, whom also I knew.The doctor now approached with the crowd. In a loud voicehe recited the crime of which these women were accused. Thefirst taken, Okandaga, had-so he said-some weeks beforeasked Mpomo for some salt, he being her relative. Salt wasscarce, and he had refused her. She had said unpleasant wordsto him then, and had by sorcery taken his life.Then Quengueza's niece was accused. She was barren, andMpomo had children. She envied him. Therefore she hadbewitched him.Quengueza's slave had asked Mpomo for a looking-glass. Hehad refused her. Therefore she had killed him with sorcery.As each accusation was recited the people broke out into .Even the relatives of the poor victims were obliged tojoin in this. Every one rivalled his neighbour in cursing, eachcurses.

• 398 DECAPITATION OF THE VICTIMS. CHAP. XXIII.

fearful lest lukewarmness in the ceremony should expose himto a like fate.Next the victims were put into a large canoe with the executioners, the doctor, and a number of other people, all armed.Then the tam-tams were beaten, and the proper persons prepared the mboundou. Quabi, Mpomo's eldest brother, held thepoisoned cup. At sight of it poor Okandaga began again tocry, and even Quengueza's niece turned pale in the face-foreven the negro face has at such times a pallor which is quiteperceptible. Three other canoes now surrounded that in whichthe victims were. All were crowded with armed men.Then the mug of mboundou was handed to the old slavewoman, next to the royal niece, and last to Okandaga. Asthey drank, the multitude shouted, " If they are witches, letthe mboundou kill them; if they are innocent, let the mboundougo out.'It was the most exciting scene of my life. Though horroralmost froze my blood, my eyes were riveted upon the spectacle.A dead silence now occurred. Suddenly the slave fell down.She had not touched the boat's bottom ere her head was hackedoff by a dozen rude swords.Next came Quengueza's niece. In an instant her head wasoff, and the blood was dyeing the waters of the river.Meantime poor Okandaga staggered, and struggled, and cried,vainly resisting the working of the poison in her system. Lastof all she fell too, and in an instant her head was hewed off.Then all became confused. An almost random hacking ensued,and in an incredibly short space of time the bodies were cut insmall pieces, which were cast into the river.When this was done the crowd dispersed to their houses, andfor the rest of the day the town was very silent. Some of theserude people felt that their number, in their already almost extinguished tribe, was becoming less, and the dread of death filledtheir hearts. In the evening poor Adouma came secretly to myhouse to unburden his sorrowing heart to me. He, too, had beencompelled to take part in the dreadful scene.He dared not evenrefrain from joining in the curses heaped upon his poor sister.He dared not mourn publicly for her who was considered sogreat a criminal.I comforted him as well as I could, and spoke to him of theMADECAPITATION SCENE ATGOUMBI .

CHAP. XXIII, " ASKING ILOGO," 399true God, and of the wickedness of the conduct we had witnessedthat day. He said at last, " Oh, Chally! when you go back toyour far country, let them send men to us poor people to teachus from that which you call God's mouth, " meaning the Bible.I promised Adouma to give the message, and I now do so.I have often endeavoured to get at the secret thoughts of thedoctors or wonder-workers among these people. They lead thepopular superstition in such manner that it is almost impossibleto suppose they are themselves deceived, and yet it is certain thatmost of them have a kind of faith in it. Nevertheless, it is notlikely that they are imposed upon to the same extent as thecommon people, and this because they are most barefaced impostors themselves. They go about covered with charms, whichthey themselves give importance to. They relate most wonderfuldreams and visions, which are most certainly spun out of theirown brains. They practise all manner of cheats; and whenthey fasten a charge of sorcery on any person, it is scarce possible to conceive that in such a case they are the victims ofdelusions which they themselves create. Indeed I must say,that generally for months before popular feeling points to thosewho are believed to be wizards. I have never found them veryfriendly to myself, and never disposed to assert or deny anything. One thing only I can assert about them: they can drinkgreat quantities of mboundou without taking harm from it.And this is one great source of their power over the people.Before leaving Goumbi, a grand effort was made by the peopleto ascertain the cause of their king's sufferings. Quengueza hadsent word by my men to his people to consult Ilogo, a spirit saidto live in the moon. The rites were very curious. To consultIlogo, the time must be near full moon. Early in the eveningthe women of the town assembled in front of Quengueza's house,and sang songs to and in praise of Ilogo, the spirit of Ogouayli(the moon), the latter name being often repeated. Meantime awoman was seated in the centre of the circle of singers, who sangwith them, and looked constantly towards the moon.She wasto be inspired by the spirit, and to utter prophecies.Two women made At last trial of this post without success.came a third, a little woman, wiry and nervous. When sheseated herself the singing was redoubled in fury; the excitement of the people had had time to become intense; the drums400 A FIGHT ON THE RIVER. CHAP. XXIII.beat; the outsiders shouted madly. Presently the woman, who,singing violently, had looked constantly towards the moon,began to tremble. Her nerves twitched; her face was contorted; her muscles swelled; and at last her limbs straightenedout, and she lay extended on the ground, insensible.The excitement was now intense and the noise horrible. Thesongs to Ilogo were not for a moment discontinued. The wordswere little varied, and were to this purport:-6666Ilogo, we ask thee!Tell who has bewitched the king!Ilogo, we ask thee,What shall we do to cure the king?" The forests are thine, Ilogo!The rivers are thine, Ilogo!The moon is thine!O moon! O moon! O moon!Thou art the house of Ilogo!Shall the king die? O Ilogo!O Ilogo! O moon! O moon! ”These words were repeated again and again, with little variation. The woman, who lay for some time insensible, was thensupposed to be able to see things in the world of Ilogo, and wasexpected to bring back a report thereof. When she at last cameto her senses, after half an hour's insensibility, she looked verymuch prostrated. She averred that she had seen Ilogo; thathe had told her Quengueza was not bewitched; that a remedyprepared from a certain plant would cure him; and so on. Iam convinced the woman believed what she said, as did all thepeople. It was a very curious instance of the force of imagination and extreme excitement combined.I should have mentioned before that, as we were sailing up theriver a little above Biagano, we had a fight. The crew of oneof my canoes got into a quarrel with a canoe from one of thevillages, and presently we came to hard blows. The noise wasdeafening, and the blows which were given on both sides weretremendous, and showed to great advantage the superior thickness of the African skull. The weapons used were a kind of pole,of very heavy and hard wood, called the tongo. It is an unwieldyweapon, being seven feet long, and about an inch in diameter.The outer end is heavier, and is notched so as to inflict severer•CHAP. XXIII. NEGRO LOVE OF ABUSE. 401wounds, and when the battle was over I noticed that everytongo was covered with blood and wool. I am sure that oneblow from a tongo would have fractured the skull of a white man.The length of the tongo makes it an awkward and ineffectiveweapon; but the African does not like to come to close quarters with his enemy.When we had beaten off the assailants, they retired, followedby the abusive songs of our side, who were very proud of theirvictory. Abuse is the negro's forte and his delight, and myfellows bubbled over with the most ridiculous reproaches, alreadyset to a sort of impromptu tune."Your chief has the leg of an elephant!" sung one; andanother,"Ho! his eldest brother has the neck of a wild ox!""Your women are dirty and ugly!""You have no food in your village, poor fellows. Ho! ho! "And so they went on, pouring out ridicule upon the discomfited foe. Nothing touches a negro so quickly as ridicule, and Ifancy my men will have to pay for theirs when they return.Their words were felt to be harder than their blows.with thirty-fiveThe men I hadTo Adouma IOn the 21st I sent my Biagano people back. On the next dayI left for Obindji's town and the far interior,Goumbi men and Adouma for my head-man.to pay each about six dollars' worth of cloth.only promised that I would " make his heart glad, " which meansthat he should be well paid.I was glad to take poor Adouma along, not only to cheer himup, but because thus I was likely to save him, for a while, atleast, from his sister's fate. These tribes have a belief that thepowers of sorcery are inherited, and go from generation togeneration in certain families. Now several of Adouma'sancestors had been killed for witchcraft at different times; hissister had but just met the same fate, and the poor fellow himself was quite likely to be a victim when the next sorcery rowtook place.While I remained in the town I refused to speak to the menwho had been most active in the killing of the women. Theyfelt ashamed when they saw that I was not inclined to noticethem, and tried to express their sorrow; but I would hearnothing from them. I was determined to show my horror at2 D402 SINGULAR NAMES. CHAP. XXIII.their conduct, and to hold out to them the threat that if theywould do so they need expect nothing from me.While I staid at Goumbi this time I noticed again that thepeople do not like to drink of the water of the river. This dislike is found in all the tribes that live on the larger streams.Their women have to bring water for drinking from the springsand streamlets, often at considerable distances. This is becausethey have a horror of drinking from water into which slaves whodie, and persons executed for witchcraft, are thrown.On the 22nd we at last got off. My goods were so heavy thatI required several canoes. I carried, besides plenty of ammunition, a large supply of beads, tobacco, calico, looking-glasses, files ,fire-steels, &c. Some of the men who are with me this time havemost curious names, such as Gooloo-Gani, Biembia, Agambie- Mo,Jombai, Manda, Akondogo.We left the shores of Goumbi without the customary singing.Scarce a word was said. We were going to explore an unknown,and, to the negroes, fearful region; and, moreover, Mpomo'sdeath made singing out of order.The day was very hot, and towards evening we were overtakenby a terrible storm of rain and wind. I was glad when, towardssunset, we reached the village of Acaca, where my friendAcoundie soon made me comfortable and dry. I was prevailedupon to spend a day here to hunt the manga, a species ofmanatee, of whose meat the people are very fond.During the day we passed the celebrated oloumi-tree; and herethe men fortified their courage by a curious superstitious rite.They went ashore, and presently stripped bark from the tree,which they boiled in water. With this water they then washedthemselves thoroughly, thus securing to themselves good fortunefor the trip, and success in certain speculations which they hopedto be able to make in the Ashira country, where they expectto get " trusted " with slaves, and ivory, and cloth to sell on thecoast.The morning after our arrival at Acaca we set off in small,very flat canoes, made on purpose for this sport. A mangadoctor accompanied us. We went into the Niembai, on whosegrassy bottom the manga dwells, and here stationed the boatamong the high reeds which lined the shore. The doctor spreada powder he had in a pouch thickly on the water, and returnedCHAP. XXIII. MANGA- HUNTING. 403then towards the reeds. Presently, while we kept silence, agreat beast came to the surface, and began greedily sucking inthe powder. Immediately they stole upon it with the canoe,and, when they got near enough, fastened a harpoon to it. Tothis was attached a long strip of native rope. The animalimmediately made for the bottom, but in a few minutes came tothe top, and presently, after some struggles, died. Then theybrought an empty canoe, which was upset, and the body of theanimal put into it, whereupon we returned to the village.Before it was cut up the manga doctor went through someceremonies which I did not see, and nobody was permitted tosee the animal while he was cutting it up.This manga is a new species of manatee. Its body is of adark lead colour; the skin is smooth, very thick, and covered inall parts with single bristly hairs from half an inch to an inch inlength. The eyes are very small; the paddles are without nails.The specimen we killed was ten feet long. Its circumferencewas very considerable, but I could not get at it to measure it.This animal feeds on the leaves and grass growing on the riverbanks.The people were greatly rejoiced. The beast weighed about1500 pounds, as I calculate from its requiring eighteen men todrag it, and the meat is delicious -something like pork, butfiner grained and of a sweeter flavour. To-night all hands weresmoking it. The doctor was greatly rejoiced at his success, andpraised himself to me at a great rate. But I could not discoverthe composition of his powder, which was certainly quite efficacious.On the 24th we started for the interior. When we got toMpopo I found my men would not be able to carry all myluggage. I had to hire more. The chief asked his wives tofurnish some slaves for me, but they asked such a price fortheir services that I would not give it. It is curious how seldoma husband in this country interferes with that property which hehas given to his wives. The women jealously guard their rightsin this respect; and so long as they feed their husbands andmake them comfortable, they are not, in many things, subject tomale rule at all.On the 26th we got to Obindji's town. The old fellow wasrejoiced to see me, and here I got several Ashira men and two2 D 2404 THE TRAGEDY OF POOR QUERLAOUEN. CHAP. XXIII.Bakalai, which makes my troop up to thirty-two men all told,and sets me on my way rejoicing.One of the Ashira fellows was here last spring when I washere. He had brought a slave to Obindji to sell for him, and hehad been waiting for the proceeds ever since. He might havewaited a year or two longer if I had not come, and he wouldhave done so quite willingly. The creditor in such case liveswith the debtor. Okendjo was fed by Obindji's wife; and, tocomfort and cheer him while he was waiting, Obindji gave himone of his own wives-a hospitable custom in this part of Africa,which a man is always expected to observe towards his visitors.Whenever I entered a strange village, the chief always madehaste to place a part, and often his whole harem at my service.Time was literally of no account to Okendjo. Obindji's townwas as jolly a place as any village of his own country. Andperhaps, in a few months, his goods would come. So the dayswent on pleasantly with him.When he heard my destination mentioned, he at once conceived the brilliant idea of having the honour of guiding thefirst white man to his king, and thus gaining imperishablerenown to himself. I was very glad to have him, as he was avery intelligent negro.Yesterday, as we approached Obindji's town, we came to theplantation of my old friend Querlaouen. I got out of the canoe,and went ashore to greet the good old African and his wife andchildren, for whom I had brought presents such as they wished.But alas! I found no house or plantation. The place wasdeserted; the jungle was thickest where his little clearing hadbeen, and I walked back with disappointed and forebodingheart. On the river-bank I met a Bakalai, who told me poorQuerlaouen's story. Some months before the old hunter hadgone out after an elephant.the report of the gun, and,return, set out to seek him.His slave who was with him heardfinding that his master did notHe found him in the forest, dead,and trampled into a shapeless mass by the beast, which he hadwounded mortally, but which had strength enough left to rushat and kill its enemy. The poor body was brought in andburied. But now came in the devilish superstitions of theAfricans. This family really loved each other. They livedtogether in peace and unity. But the people declared thatCHAP. XXIII. GREAT EXPECTATIONS OF MY MEN. 405Querlaouen's brother had bewitched him and caused his death.The brother was killed by the mboundou ordeal, and thewomen and children had gone to live with those to whom theybelonged by the laws of inheritance, and were thus scatteredin several villages. I was consequently prevented repaying thisfamily for their kind deeds to me.Early on the 27th we were awakened by the voice of Obindji,who was recommending Okendjo to take great care of " hiswhite man," and see that nothing hurt him. We were soonunder weigh. Our road led up the Ofoubou for some threemiles and a half. Then we struck off due east, and after halfan hour's arduous travel we got through the marshy bottomland which bounds the river, and stood at the foot of a mountainridge, along which lay the route to Ashira-land. Here we gavethree cheers, and with great hopes I led the way into a newterra incognita.By five that night, when we encamped, we had advanced in astraight line about twenty miles from the Ofoubou. The countrywas mountainous, very rugged, and very thickly wooded withgreat trees. The ground was in many places thickly strewn withthe immense boulders which I had noticed in my journey to theFans, only here quartz rock was more abundant. Numerousstreams of the purest and most crystalline water rolled inevery direction, tumbling , over the rocks in foaming cascades,or purling along in a bed of white pebbles, which wasdelightfully reminiscent of the hill-streams and trout- brooks ofhome.This night we had no rain-storm, which was very lucky, as,when camping-time came, we were too tired to build ourselvesshelters. Before this not a night had passed since I startedfrom Biagano without our having one of the powerful storms ofmixed wind and rain for which this is the proper season. Severaltimes they even overtook us by day.Our camp was full of life this evening. The men were rejoicingin anticipation of great trade in slaves and ivory, and gave theirimagination full swing. When trade was exhausted, they rejoicedover the wives they would get among the Ashira, where theyexpect, as strangers from a far land, to be sumptuously entertained. And at last Okendjo capped their pleasure by promising them great feasts of goats and plantains, the Goumbi406 VAST BOULDERS. CHAP. XXIII.and Bakalai regarding Ashira-land as the country of goats andplantains.We were kept awake between one and three o'clock by theroarings of a leopard, which, however, could not face the fire,which we had kept bright, so he could not make his breakfastupon one of us as he desired. But neither did I think it quitesafe to venture into the gloom after him. The leopard is a beastthat cannot be trifled with even by white men. As for thenegroes, they are very much afraid of him; and I have knowncases where so many persons were carried away out of a villageby a persistent leopard, who had got a taste of black meat andliked it, that the survivors had to move away.Next morning (29th) I found out that the fellows had slylythrown away a quantity of my plantains, to be relieved of theburden. I warned them that, if we were short of food, theyIwould have to starve first.This day the country was much as yesterday. Ebony growsin great abundance on all hands. The poorer the soil , the tallerthe trees, and the more numerous. In many places the rainshad washed away the soil from the immense and wide-spreadingroots, which ran along the ground looking like huge serpents.To-day we saw for the first time a tree new to me, and whichmy men called the indoonoo. It has an immense girth, and is amuch taller and better shaped tree than the baobab, which is notfound in this part of Africa. I measured one, of only moderatesize, which had fallen down, and found it, at some feet from thebase, eight feet in diameter. This tree is not known on theRembo, and was as new to my Bakalai as to me. The Ashirafellows, however, knew it very well.I think the blocks of quartz grow more and more immense aswe proceed. To- day there were some which were really stupendous masses, and it was a most curious sight to see our caravanfiling between two such ponderous blocks, looking like pigmiesalongside of these huge boulders.Towards evening, at last, we began to see signs of a change inthe face of the country. Plantations could be seen from time totime; the soil became more clayey; and at last we emergedfrom the immense forest. I saw spread out before me the greatAshira prairie-land, dotted plentifully with villages, which lookedin the distance like ant-heaps. I stood for a long time on theCHAP. XXIII. THE ASHIRA PRAIRIE- LAND. 407edge of a bluff, taking in this, one of the finest landscapes I eversaw in my life. Far as the eye could reach was a high rollingprairie. As I afterwards discovered, the plain is about fifty- fivemiles long by ten wide. All over this vast plain were scatteredcollections of little Ashira huts. The hills and valleys werestreaked with ribbon-like paths, and here and there the eyecaught the silver sheen of a brook winding along through theundulating land. In the far distance loomed up mountainshigher than any I had yet seen, and whose peaks were lost inthe clouds. It was a grand sight.408 ASHIRA-LAND AT LAST. CHAP. XXIV.We enter Ashira-land --―CHAPTER XXIV.―-Appearance of the Ashira --I am---Astonishment of the People at my Appearance -Their Fear of my Eyes -Grand Reception - Message and Presents from the Ashira King -Kendo - King Olenda His Address to mean Object of great Wonder - My Clock a Fetich - Features of the PlainVillages Houses Agriculture DressGrass-cloth Loom · Curious Custom of young Women - Operation ofDyeing - Manner of Hair-dressing - Peculiarities Fears of the Slaves -Condition of Women — Marriage — Splendid Waterfall — Mount NchondoA Superstition about it —A Case of Insanity — Ascent of Mount Andele- Meet a Nshiego Mbouvé —How it rests at Night —Attempt to ascend the Nkoomoo- nabouali Gorilla killed Difficulties of the Ascent Starvation.------To make our entry into Ashira-land properly, Okendjo senttwo men ahead to announce that "the spirit " was coming to seethem, and that he (Okendjo) had been selected as his guide.Soon, in the nearest village, we began to see people moving abouthurriedly, and in half an hour the whole plain knew somethinghad occurred. Meantime those nearest us came out to meet us,and we moved forward to them. When they saw me, allstopped, and the majority turned back with awe and alarmdepicted on their faces. We continued to advance slowly. Itwas nearly dusk when we entered the nearest village. But veryfew of the people dared to approach me; and even those tookto flight if I fixed my eye upon them, evidently fearing I woulddo them a mischief.Okendjo walked ahead of me, proclaiming, in a most magniloquent manner, the many virtues of the great white man or spiritwhom he had brought to see his countrymen. And the crowdanswered to his words in shouts, " The tangani has come! Thespirit has come to see our land—our land, which he never sawbefore!"It happened luckily that the chief of the first village we cameto was a brother of Okendjo. Akoonga met us at the entranceof his place, and said, " Is it true, Okendjo, what I hear, that youbring to us this man? Is it not an hallucination of my mind,occasioned by too much palm-wine? Is he the spirit whoCHAP. XXIV. PLEASANT RECEPTION. 409makes the guns, the cloth, the beads, the brass rods, and thecopper rings?"Okendjo replied, " He is the man. This is he of whom youhave heard so much. He comes from a far country to see us."Then the people shouted out their surprise. A house wasgiven me, and when I had taken possession the chief came, followed by ten of his wives, each bearing two bunches of plantains,which, with fear and trembling, they deposited at my feet. Nextwere brought four goats, twenty fowls, several baskets of groundnuts, and many bunches of sugarcane.When these were delivered, Akoonga said to Okendjo, " Tellthe spirit that I thank him that he stays in my village a night.Tell him he is welcome, and all those who follow him. He isthe master while he is here. This food is for him. As for hispeople, my women will cook for them. ”I thanked him.Then, showing me the house, he said, " It is your house; mywives are yours; my slaves are yours; my people are yours. "Then, at last, I had a chance to refresh myself with supper.After supper, being tired, I lay down, but was not yet asleepwhen I heard the chief say to his people, " Be silent; do nottrouble the spirit; do not speak lest you awake him. Neitherour forefathers nor ourselves ever saw such a wonder as this. "The consequence of this kind and very unusual forethoughtwas that I enjoyed a very good night's rest.By my reckoning, the village of Akoonga is two hundred andforty miles east from Cape Lopez.Early next morning the rush of people began. They were lessafraid than on the evening before, and crowded around me insuch masses that I was nearly stifled . As usual, my hair wasthe great object of wonder to them . I stood it as long as Icould, but at last had to ask the chief to send them away. Notto disappoint their curiosity too much, I consented to walkthrough the streets at intervals of an hour or two, and thus giveall an opportunity to look at me. This piece of complaisancegratified them immensely.In the morning, Olenda, the king or head chief of the Ashiras,sent two messengers with presents of goats and plantains, and adesire that I should come to his town. I sent back word that Iwould the day after to-morrow; to-day my feet were too sore.410 THE ASHIRA KING. CHAP. XXIV.The king sent word that I should be carried if I would come.I replied that I would come on the day I had appointed. ThatI never broke my word nor ever changed my mind.Accordingly, on November 2nd, early in the morning, I wasaroused by King Olenda's people, who had come to escort mewith singing and dancing. I took leave of Akoonga, giving hima present of one hundred yards of cloth, and some beads, and anold shirt, whereat he was vastly delighted.My men had now easy times. My baggage was carried altogether by the Ashira, who marched ahead singing wild songscelebrating my arrival among them. After a journey of tenmiles over the grassy prairie we came to Olenda's town, which may be called thecapital of the nation. I was conducted to the besthouse in the place;and, after waitinghalf an hour, theringing of the kendo announced the approach ofthe king.The kendo is the sceptre of royalty in some ofthe tribes of this part of Central Africa. It is arude bell of iron, fashioned with a long handle,also of iron and of the same piece, as shown inthe engraving. The sound which with us announces the vicinity of a herd of cows or sheep,in Africa precedes the advent of the sovereign,who uses the kendo only when on visits of stateor on business of importance.At last King Olenda stood before me- -a mostsurprising object indeed. He was an old, oldman, with wool as white as snow, face a mass ofwrinkles, and body thin, lean, and bent almostdouble with age. He had painted his haggardold face red on one side, and white on the other,in streaks, and, as he stood before me, I wonderedas much at his appearance as did he at mine.When we had looked at each other for some five minutes hemade me a formal address in Ashira, which was translated forKendo.CHAP. XXIV. ROYAL ADDRESS TO ME. 411me by Okendjo. He said, " I have no bowels. I am like theOvenga River; I cannot be cut in two. But also I am like theNiembai and Ovenga rivers, which unite together. Thus mybody is united, and nothing can divide it.”This gibberish, which may possibly have had some mystic significance at one time, I afterwards discovered was the regularand invariable salutation of the Ashira kings, Olenda's predecessors, time out of mind. Each chief and important person hassuch a salutation, which they call kombo.Then he continued: "You, the spirit, have come to seeOlenda. You, the spirit, have put your feet where none likeyou have ever been. You are welcome."Here the old king's son, also a very old negro, with snowwhite wool, handed over to the king two slaves, which the kingformally presented to me, together with three goats, twentybunches of plantains, twenty fowls, five baskets of ground- nuts,and several bunches of sugarcane."This," said he, " is to salute you. Whatever else you want,tell me. I am the king of this country. Whatever else youwish, let it be known to me."I replied that slaves I did not want, but that if any of hispeople were on the coast I should be glad to have them taughtin the knowledge of the white man, that they might come andtell it to their people.Then more of the old man's children came; all old, andwrinkled, and white-headed men. They stood before me,regarding me with wonder and awe; while the people, ofwhom thousands were gathered from all the villages of theplain, looked on in silence, and expressed their surprise inwhispers.At last the old king turned to his people and said, “ I haveseen many things in my life, and many wonderful things, andnow I am ready to die, for I have seen the spirit from whomwe receive all things. It will always be said in our nation bythose coming after us, that in the time of Olenda the spirit firstappeared and dwelt among us. You are welcome" (turningto me). Keep this spirit well (to his people); he will do usgood. "66It was a very impressive scene, and all was conducted withgreat decorum and dignity.412 I ASTONISH THE NATIVES. CHAP. XXIV.Nov. 9th. The last week has been devoted to seeing and beingseen. From all the one hundred and fifty villages of the plainthe people have streamed to Olenda's town to see "the spirit."They come in the night, sleep on the ground outside the town,and in the morning crowd about me, following me with curiousgaze, wondering at my hair, and trying, unobserved, to get aglance at my eyes. The moment I look at them they run off,especially the women and children. The African has a greatdread of the steady look of a white man's eye. They believeit has an evil-working influence, and it is certainly a potentweapon to reduce a refractory or turbulent crowd. Even thebravest warrior will quail beneath the steady glance of a whiteman.My clock is an object of constant wonder to them. Theythink it watches over me. Its constant ticking day and nightis noticed, and this, to them, denotes the watchfulness of myfamiliar. Nothing could persuade them that a musical-box,which I sometimes wound up and caused to play for them, wasnot a very powerful devil in my employ. And, though they have a few guns and know their use, my revolver excited notonly their admiration, but a superstitious kind of reverence.They could not comprehend a machine which could fire timeafter time right ahead without stopping.The Ashira plain, which I have in this week to some extentexplored, is the finest and most delightful country I have seenin Africa. The soil is light, but tolerably good. It is wellwatered with small brooks. The undulations of the prairie,which is, in fact, a table-land surrounded on all sides byhigher mountains, give the landscape a charming variety. Thesurrounding mountains, the splendid peak of the Nkoomoonabouali on the north, the Andele and Ofoubou to the south,the peaks of Ococoo to the east, are all covered with densemasses of forest, and lend a solemn majesty to the scene, fromwhatever point it is viewed. They thoroughly inclose the greatprairie, their forests reaching to the very feet of the hills, andmarking, with curious distinctness, the boundary beyond whichman has not encroached.I learned from the natives that beyond the Nkoomoo- naboualirange a superb cataract was known. A stream called theRembo Ngouyai runs through a high defile, and finally fallsCHAP. XXIV. ASHIRA VILLAGES. 413into the plain down an abrupt precipice, resuming its coursearound the very base of the mountain. Its roar fills the wholesurrounding country, and its vapour rises along the sides ofthe mountain into a magnificent rainbowed column visible ata great distance. This great fall, called the Samba Nagoshi,I hoped afterwards to visit, but the reader will see that theFates denied me this pleasure. I floated on the RemboNgouyai, within sight of the vapour rising from the cataract,and listened to its sublime roar, but in mylight canoe I didnot dare risk a near approach through turbulent waters; whilethe approach overland was found too difficult for my time,and strength, and limited supplies. The negroes of this regionare full of wonderful stories of its fury. They believe thatbeyond the mountains lives a great spirit who sends down this torrent.The villages were so scattered at random that I could notmake an accurate count of them, but there are between 150and 200. They are the neatest I have seen in Africa. Thehouses are small, but cleanly, and built of tree-bark. Thevillage is generally composed of one long street, with houses oneach side. The streets are kept very clean; and this is the onlytribe where the ground at the back of the houses is also clearedoff. The villages are surrounded by thousands of plantain-trees,and regular paths connect them with each other. I learned thatvillages are removed, as among other tribes, for death or witchcraft, but not beyond the plains.Behind every village, in particular near the boundary of theforest, are great plantations, carried on with much industry,A roll of Ashira Tobacco.and where tobacco, peanuts, plantains, yams, and sugarcaneare grown in quantities which make this a land of plenty, where414 THE ASHIRA PEOPLE. CHAP. XXIV.no man starves.then, but not in great plenty. As I stood on one of the highesthills which diversify the plain, and cast my eyes over the scene,the yellow waving grass and cane fields contrasting with thedark green of the forest, reminded me strongly of the harvestfields of my home, and gave the landscape a charm of homelyrural beauty which is lacking elsewhere in Africa, where all iswild and grand, but where the traveller's heart often aches forsomething which shall remind him of home.Bushes of wild cotton were seen now andThe people are the finest I have seen in Africa. They areevidently a separate nation, for the Bakalai and other tribeswho surround them are much lighter coloured. The Ashiraare invariably coal- black. The women, in particular, have fineforms, and, though they have full negro features, many of theyoung women have a grace of carriage and a sprightliness ofmanner which is something quite un- African.The dress ofthe men and married women consists of a flowinggarment called a ndengui, which is made of a kind of grasscloth woven by them, and which I found, in many cases, ofvery fine and tolerably even texture. The loom is a complicated structure, which is suspended between two trees, orat the front of the house. It is worked on the same principleon which seamen make their mats on board ship, havingtwo sets of " dividers," to separate the web and admit theshuttle with the warp. The thread which is used is obtainedfrom a species of palm which I saw only here and among theApingi. They take the leaf, which is from two to three feetlong, and strip off from it the thin cuticle, which is then dried,and becomes a tolerably firm yarn. They told me that thistree is very short-lived, dying after having borne fruit butonce.Ashira Thread and Needle.They sew very neatly with a wooden needle and grass thread,a skein of which is here represented.CHAP. XXIV. COSTUME OF THE ASHIRA. 415By a singular fashion, which I never saw elsewhere, girls andyoung women, till they are married, are not allowed to wearany clothing except the narrow grass-cloth girdle about themiddle. They wander about as freely as a total absence of thesentiment of modesty can let them. Their scant toilet wassimply a fashion of such long standing that it was taken as amatter of course.The men, who are not nearly so finely-built as the women,though they too are superior to the men of the surroundingtribes, wear on their heads caps of grass-thread knit in a mostbeautiful manner, something in the style of the crochet-workwhich is the amusem*nt of our ladies. The cap is called ash*ta.From their shoulders hangs a bag, not unlike the fashion of ourgame-bags, with a mass of pendent strings surrounding the bag.It is a very pretty thing, and is used to carry whatever theymay have, which we would put in our pockets.Ashira Weapons.Both men and women are very fond of copper ornaments,such as bracelets and anklets, which they manufacture from thecopper brought hither by the Bakalai from the seashore.manner.Some of their grass-cloth remains of its natural colour, whichis a dark buff. Other articles are dyed black in a very ingeniousA beautiful bush, which grows in abundance here,bears a profusion of small berries in which the dye is secreted.To obtain it, however, it is necessary first to rub the cloththoroughly with clay until it is quite covered, and then put itto soak for a day in running water. After soaking twenty-four416 SINGULAR HAIR-DRESSING. CHAP. XXIV.hours it is put in a kettle with water and the berries and bark,and some leaves of the same tree. The whole is boiled forthree or four hours. When the cloth is taken out it is of alight black or brown colour. It does not turn of the peculiardeep shining black till it is once more rubbed in clay and soakedin running water.Ashira Belles.The Ashira women dress their hair in a very curious way,and quite differently from any negroes I have seen. Thepictures here given make an explanation unnecessary, exceptto say that the protuberance on the top of the head and theprojecting horns are their own wool, made stiff by being strungover such substances as plantain-leaves or sticks. The toiletof an Ashira lady's head is rather a complicated affair; butthen a head " lasts " a good while. The hair is covered withpalm-oil.CHAP. XXIV. MANNERS OF THE ASHIRA. 417The women paint their bodies red with the dye obtained fromthe barwood-tree. They are particularly fond of wearing copperrods about their necks, which makes them look as though readycollared for the slave-market. Both men and women file theirteeth slightly in the middle, and it does not produce an unpleasant effect on the stranger. Occasionally I saw an oldman with teeth filed to a point, as is the savage custom in manyof the African tribes. It gives the countenance a peculiar lookof ferocity which is not soon forgotten.Seeing no slaves, although I had been some days at Olenda'stown, I began to think they had none. But I soon discoveredthat the poor slaves, on hearing of my arrival, had been panicstruck. They thought, poor fellows! that I had come to carrythem off to the seashore to be fattened, and then carried off tothe white man's country to be eaten, and that I myself intendedto eat a few, which is the use they fancy we make of slaves.Accordingly, they retreated to the plantations, where they hidthemselves, and resolutely refused to make their appearance;nor would any assurances or entreaties of mine induce them tocome forth. The masters only laughed.The women cultivate the soil among the Ashira, as among theother tribes. They are very industrious, and seemed to memilder mannered, as they certainly were healthier than elsewherein Africa. They do not become wives till they have arrivedfully at the age of puberty, which is one sufficient reason for thegreater beauty of the little nation, and for its intellectual superiority, as denoted by the cloth manufactures, and the settled andprovident mode of life. Polygamy, of course, prevails; andparents sometimes sell their children, which is not thought acrime. The less I say about the morals of the women the better.Let it suffice that chastity is not one of the virtues of the Ashira.This whole country is well watered. Along every distantmountain-side rivulets are dancing downward, and are lost in theplain, or eventually fall into the Ovenga or Ovigui, which flowpast, the last emptying into the Rembo Apingi.Nov. 10th. To-day I set out for the mountains to the south,the Ofoubou, Andele, and Orere mountains, among which theOfoubou river has its source. I left my luggage with KingOlenda, and took only a few presents for the chief's who had invited me to visit their towns in the mountains. Olenda gave me2 E418 AN INSANE NEGRO. CHAP. XXIV.one of his sons as guide, and told all his people to take greatcare of " the spirit."After a march of about a mile and a half in a general direction of south, we came to the foot of Mount Nchondo, one ofthe highest peaks in the prairie. It is much venerated amongthe Ashira, who believe that from it goats came to them. Manyassured me that their friends had received these animals fromthe mountain; and I suppose that formerly it was, in fact, sometimes the hiding- place of wild goats, who, issuing forth fromsome unknown recesses, gave rise to this singular superstition.After skirting for some miles the base and slopes of these hills,we came to the foot of the cloud-capped Mount Andele. Herewas the village of Mouendi, whose chief, Mandji, came forth withgreat joy to meet me, his people singing, "It is good that thewhite man comes to see our town."They brought me presents of food, as usual, and seemed greatlyto wonder at my hands, my hair, &c.In the country we crossed to-day I saw some deserted villages.Here death had been accompanied by witchcraft; for the poorAshira too are stricken with the belief that death is the resultof violence, and must have been caused by the wicked machinations of sorcerers.Wherever I went the villages were remarkably neat. Thehouses are small, but clean. The lack of the mpavo, of whichthe houses of most of the other tribes are built, accounts fortheir diminutive size. They have to carry this unwieldly building material often many miles, and on their backs, as they haveno beasts of burden. The streets were always scrupulously neat,not a weed or a piece of offal to be seen.While I was resting in one of the villages, a poor crazy fellowcame capering and singing along the street. I was so muchamused at his antics, and at the forbearance of the people withhim, that I gave him an old torn coat I had with me. At this hewas vastly delighted, and redoubled his jumps and songs, whilethe villagers were also much pleased. The poor fellow followedme for several days, and tried to show his gratitude by dancingand singing for my diversion. In this part of Africa idiotsthose who are dull, stupid, senseless, and gloomy—are much disliked and soon got rid of. Generally they are sold to anothertribe as slaves. But such poor light fellows as this was areCHAP. XXIV. THE INTOXICATING LIAMBA. 419kindly treated, and I think regarded with a certain superstitiousreverence. I have seen but three such in all my journeys, buthave seen many brutish idiots. I may as well add here thatcases of deafness are very rare. I do not remember to have metany, except very aged people. Among the Bakalai I found onemute, and I have seen in another tribe two humpbacks-both,by the way, remarkably cunning fellows. I do not remember asingle case of blindness in all my journeys, not even among thevery aged.I found in these hill villages a plant they call the liamba andwhich the men cultivate with great care. The leaf is used tosmoke in their clay pipes, and has powerful exhilarant and narcotic effects. From some leaves which I brought home, I havediscovered that this liamba is nothing else than the well-knownCannabis Indica, or Indian hemp, from which the far-famedEastern drug hasheesh is made.Liamba Leaf.One day during my journey I found a village in great excitement. One of the men had been smoking liamba leaves, andhad run out to the forest in an insane state, and it was feared hewould be eaten by wild beasts. Such cases are not uncommonin the Ashira country. Under my own observation afterwards.2 E 2420 EFFECTS OF THE LIAMBA. CHAP. XXIV.one liamba-smoker became furiously and permanently insane,and I saw many who were miserably debilitated by the habit.Hasheesh and the Cannabis Indica are so well known that it isnot necessary to say anything about them here. The plant is anative of Abyssinia, Persia, and Hindostan, and is not, in myopinion, indigenous to this part of Africa. This I think, becauseI nowhere heard of its growing wild, and because the Ashira andApingi, the only people I met with who use it, cultivate it withconsiderable care. Howit came thither, or how they first came bya knowledge of its qualities, I could not learn. There are amongthe Ashira many confirmed liamba-smokers, and the habit seemsvery quickly to fix itself with a fatal tenacity. Beginners I haveseen fall down in convulsions from the first few puffs. Practicedsmokers are seen laughing, talking, quarrelling, and acting in allrespects like drunken persons. Insanity is often its ultimateresult on those who persist in its use.I have several times seenmen run into the forest under the influence of a few whiffs ofliamba, perfectly unconscious and raving.The negroes acknowledge its pernicious effects, but yet itsvotaries increase; and though the plant is yet unknown to theseashore tribes, they will soon fall under its subjugation, for itis making gradual but sure advances. I never saw the leaf onthe seashore, but once saw a few of the seeds in the possession ofa slave in a slave-factory. He was carefully preserving them,intending to plant them in the country to which he should besold.The negroes choose for the liamba a soil humid, rich, and nearthe summit of a hill, in a sunny exposure, where it may securethe greatest amount of heat.The soil of the prairie is light and somewhat clay-like, butwould make a fine agricultural country. It seems speciallyadapted for grazing purposes. Nearer the mountains the soil isricher, blacker, and deeper; and here are the largest plantations,even the people living in the centre of the plain cultivatingfarms at its edge. Villages are very numerous at the foot ofthese mountains.On the 12th I set out on my return to the plains. I made anexcursion to the west, towards Obindji's village, to hunt. Itook a number of Ashira with me, who covered themselves withfetiches, as usual, and gashed their hands for good luck. TheyCHAP. XXIV. GORILLA- STORIES. 421were in high spirits because a fetich had given indications thatwe should get much game. When we had camped that evening,and after a rain-tornado had passed and left us in quiet in ourleafy shelters, the men began to tell stories of the gorilla. Someof these were such as the reader has already met with in thisvolume; but two were told of quite a different kind. One ofthese related how a gorilla was walking in the forest, when suddenly he met a ngègo or leopard. The gorilla stopped, and sodid the leopard. The latter, being hungry, crouched for aspring at his foe, whereat the gorilla set up a hideous roar.Undismayed by this, the leopard made his leap, but was caughtin mid-air by the gorilla, who seized his foe by the tail, andwhirled him round his head till the tail broke off, and the animalescaped, leaving his brush in the hands of the gorilla!The leopard ran away to his companions, who, when they sawhim, asked, " What is the matter? " whereupon the unfortunatebeast recounted his defeat. At this the chief ngègo howled andhowled till all the leopards of the forest came, who, when theysaw their brother's injury, vowed vengeance, and set out to findthe gorilla.They had not long to hunt. When the gorilla saw them cominghe broke down a tree, of which he made a club, which he swunground and round his head, and kept the troop of leopards at bay.At last, however, he grew tired, and then the leopards rushed onhim with one accord and soon killed him.Next came a story of a gorilla and an elephant, told with agood deal of dramatic force. As the gorilla was walking in theforest with his wife and baby, they came suddenly upon a hugeelephant, who said, " Let me pass, gorilla, for these woods belongto me.'"""Oh, oh! " said the gorilla. " How do the woods belong tothee? Am I not master here? Am I not the man of thewoods? Do I not roam where I please? "And, ordering his wife and baby to go aside, he broke down alarge tree, and brandishing it like a club, made at the elephant,whom he soon killed. The body of the elephant was found bya man a few days afterwards, with the club of the gorilla lyingby its side.This story, the narrator assured me, was a fact; and I think hefirmly believed it. These two fables seemed to me to evince422 AFRICAN WILD HOG. CHAP. XXIV.more imagination than any I had heard before, and I have giventhem here for that reason.Once IThe next morning I succeeded in bagging a wild boar andseveral pigs. These animals are not only very savage, butsingularly active. When I brought down the boar, three otherswhich were with him were much startled, and, in their fright,made a leap which must have measured over ten yards. I haveseen them repeatedly leaping across the Ovenga, where, by myown measurement it was more than eight yards across.saw one miss the opposite bank, and I shot it in the water.This wild hog is peculiar to this part of Africa, and is a newspecies. I have called it Potamocho*rus albifrons. The animallooks somewhat like the Potamocho*rus penicillatus. It is a veryremarkable-looking animal, attaining a great size, and conspicuous for a curious white face, adorned with several large wartyprotuberances on each side, half-way between the nose and eyes.These, and the singular long bristles which surround the eyesand the long ears, ending in a tuft of coarse hair, give the animala very remarkable expression. The colour of the body is red.We got no gorillas on this hunt, but I killed a very remarkable animal, the Cynogale velox, resembling a small otter, andthe only animal of this genus known, as yet, I believe, in Africa.It resembles somewhat the Asiatic Cynogale Bennetti (Gray) , theonly one of the genus hitherto described; but the size of theanimal, the length and character of the tail, and the habitatindicate a distinct species. I have called it velox because of theextreme rapidity with which it darts through the water after itsprey. Of its habits I unfortunately could learn nothing. *On the 12th I set out to ascend the principal peak of MountAndele. We were two days about the ascent, which was atedious affair, and without its reward, as, when I reached thesummit, I found it enveloped in clouds, and mists, and forests,and could get no view at all.On our way down, at sunset of the third day, we heard thecall of a nshiego mbouvé (Troglodytes calvus) . I immediatelycaused my men to lie down, and was just getting into a hidingplace myself, when I saw, in the branches of a tree at a little

• For full description of this curious animal, naturalists are referred to the

'Proceedings of the Boston Soc. Nat. Hist. , ' vol. vii . , p. 353, 1860.HOG .WILD FRONTED -WHITE.)albifrons Potamocho*rus (Whitney

WhymperNSHIEGO MBOUVÉ IN HIS SHELTER.CHAP. XXIV. NEST OF THE NSHIEGO MBOUVE. 423distance, the curious nest or bower of this ape; hard by, onanother tree, was another shelter. We crept up within shot ofthis nest, and then waited, for I was determined to see oncemore the precise manner in which this animal goes to rest. Welay flat on the ground, and covered ourselves with leaves andbrush, scarce daring to breathe, lest the approaching animalshould hear us.From time to time I heard the calls. There were evidentlytwo, probably a male and female. Just as the sun was setting Isaw an animal approach the tree. It ascended by a hand-overhand movement, and with great rapidity; crept carefully underthe shelter, seated itself in the crotch made by a projectingbough, its feet and haunches resting on this bough; then putone arm about the trunk of the tree for security. Thus, I suppose, they rest all night; and this posture accounts for somesingular abrasions of hair on the side of the nshiego mbouvé.At a little distance off I saw another shelter made for the mate.No sooner was it seated than it began again to utter its call.It was answered, and I began to have the hope that I shouldshoot both animals, when an unlucky motion of one of my menroused the suspicions of the ape in the tree. It began to preparefor descent, and, unwilling to risk the loss of this one, I fired.It fell to the ground dead. It proved to be a male, with the faceand hands entirely black.As we were not in haste, I made my men cut down the treeswhich contained the nests of these apes. I found them madeprecisely as I have before described, and as I have always foundthem, of long branches and leaves laid one over the other verycarefully and thickly, so as to render the structure capable ofshedding water. The branches were fastened to the tree in themiddle of the structure by means of wild vines and creepers,which are so abundant in these forests. The projecting limb onwhich the ape perched was about four feet long.There remains no doubt in my mind that these nests are madeby the animal to protect it from the nightly rains. When theleaves begin to dry to that degree that the structure no longersheds water, the owner builds a new shelter, and this happensgenerally once in ten or fifteen days. At this rate the nshiegombouvé is an animal of no little industry.424 A GORILLA SHOT. CHAP. XXIV.On the 18th I told Olenda, to whom I had returned, that Iwished for men to help me ascend the high peak of Nkoomoonabouali, which was about forty miles off. He laughed, and saidI could not do it; I should starve in the attempt; besides, therewas a mighty spirit living there which would prevent us frompassing. However, I had set my heart on ascending this peak;and though it proved impossible to draw the slaves from theirconcealment, I managed to bribe a sufficient number of freemento be my guides through the impenetrable forest which lay between the prairie and the mountain-top, and to help me in theascent. The negroes are excellent woodmen, and are very rarelylost, even in a forest where they are strangers.We set out on the 21st, taking with us food for several days,and blankets for myself to keep me from suffering from thecold. Unfortunately for me, we found part of the forest lowand swampy; and a dense thorny jungle, in which I had lost,by the evening of the 22nd, not only my shirt, but the greaterpart of every other garment I wore, besides numerous patchesof skin.On the night of the 22nd a tremendous rain-storm put out ourfires and left us most uncomfortable. Next morning we heardthe roar of a gorilla, which revived my drooping spirits. Afterswallowing a cup of coffee and a biscuit-more I dared not eat,for our provisions would scarce hold out-we set out to kill the ape.We had not far to go. I went off to the east with one of myhunters. We had walked barely a quarter of a mile when weheard the loud roar again: this time quite near. We stoodquite still for fear of alarming the beast, which was evidentlyapproaching us, as we could see the bushes bent towards us.The fear of alarming him, however, proved needless. When hesaw us he at once struck aside the intervening bushes, rose to anerect position, made a few steps, stopped, and seated himself;then, beating his vast breast, which resounded like an old drum,he advanced straight upon us. His dark eyes flashed with rage,his features worked convulsively, and at every few paces hestopped, and, opening his cavernous mouth, gave vent to histhunderous roar, which the forests gave back with multipliedechoes.CHAP. XXIV. STARVATION AND SUFFERING. 425He was evidently not a bit alarmed, and was quite ready for afight. We stood quite still. He advanced till he stood beatinghis breast within six yards of us, when I thought it time to putan end to the scene. My shot hit him in the breast, and he fellforward on his face dead. They die very easily, and have noneof that tenacity of life which the most savage animals have. Inthis they also resemble man. It proved to be a middle-agedmale, a fine specimen.By the evening of the 24th we had ascended I could not tellhow far up the mountain-side, but I fear not very far. Thewoods were still dense; every step was attended with difficulties.The negroes were suffering from hunger, and we had but oneday's provisions left. My poor rags could no longer be kept together, and at every advance my bleeding body bore witness tothe difficulties of a farther ascent; so I determined not to riskcertain death by starvation, but rather to return.I sent men up the highest trees I could find, to try if theycould obtain a view which would determine our position; butthey could see only an interminable forest, whose general outline was so far hidden from them that it was impossible even tosay that we were near or far from the plain, or how high or lowwe were.So, on the 25th, we set out on our way back, praying onlythat we might not starve by the way. Fortunately, one of themen discovered a bees' nest in a tree, and we ate up their wormystore of honey; and in the afternoon we shot a leopard, whichlay in a tree just ahead of us as we were passing along, and Idare say hoped to make his dinner off one of our party. It wasa splendid beast, and very large. We had it cut to pieces inshort order, and had a satisfactory supper from leopard- steak.But there was only a bite a-piece for the party, and we werehalf-famished. The next morning we rose weak and depressed.I could scarce stand. We picked a few berries for breakfast,and again made for the plain. I took a last mouthful of brandy,and, to encourage the men, walked in advance, and assumed adegree of high spirits which I did not in reality possess.27th. This morning I could only with great difficulty risefrom my poor bed of leaves. We set forward without breakfast.I dared not send the men into the forest for berries, for every426 RETURN TO THE PRAIRIE. CHAP. XXIV.hour was precious, and they might not find any after all . Sowe walked on with empty stomachs, praying for a sight of theplain.On, and on, and on, through the gloomy jungle, no man sayinga word to the other, and every man looking anxiously for thefirst sign of the prairie-land, which now seemed a very fairy-landto me.At last, in the afternoon, about three o'clock, a sudden lightingup ofthe forest's gloom gave us hope, and after another hour's anxious marching the wide plain lay before us. With a simultaneousrenewal of strength and hope, we set off on a run, nor stopped tillwe had reached a village at the very bounds of the bush. Herethe people were at first very much alarmed at our appearanceand our frantic actions. " Food, food, food!" was all that any ofus could cry out. When they discovered that we did not meanmischief, they approached, and, learning our necessities, madehaste to supply us with all manner of food in their possession.One came with yams, another with plantains, others with littlebaskets of cassava; and all expressed sorrow that they hadnothing better to offer. The chief killed a goat for me, whichwe ate up as fast as it could be cooked. I feared I should be sickfrom putting too large a share on my so long empty stomach;but, happily, the goat did not disagree with any of us. Probablythere was not enough of it.The next day we returned to Olenda's town, and were received with all the honours due to such a starvation adventure.Makondai came with tears of joy in his eyes to welcome meback. He told me that in my absence a boy had been accusedof witchcraft, and was to be killed the next day. I went to theking, and told him nobody must be murdered on such nonsensical pretence while I was there, for I should leave instantly,and never come back. So, after some hesitation, they gave theboy to me, and he is to-night safe in my house.The weather has been very hot lately; and, as my hair wastoo long for comfort, I told Makondai one day to cut it for me,giving him a pair of scissors I had in my kit. He did not do itvery artistically, but in thelittle for looks or fashions.interior of Africa one comes to careWhen he had done he gathered upthe cut hair and threw it out into the street. I was not attendingCHAP. XXIV. ASHIRA HOUSEKEEPER.427to what was going on, and was surprised presently at a noise ofscuffling and fighting in front ofmy house.I looked out and beheld a most laughable scene. The menwere busily picking up the scattered hairs, and those who couldnot get at them were disputing possession with their luckierneighbours. Even the old king, Olenda, was in the midst,eager for a share. As each got what he could, he would tiethem up carefully in the corner of his ndengui, and walk offvery contentedly.Ogana: the Ashira Housekeeper.I called Olenda and asked what was the use of this hair. Hereplied, " Oh, spirit! these hairs are very precious; we shallmake mondas (fetiches) of them, and they will bring otherwhite men to us, and bring us great good luck and riches.Since you have come to us, oh spirit! we have wished to havesome of your hair, but did not dare to ask for it, not knowingthat it could be cut. " I was happy that it had not occurred tothem to appropriate violently my whole head, hair and all, and428 ASHIRA HOUSEKEEPER. CHAP. XXIV.was glad enough to let the old king walk off with his preciouslock of a white man's hair.On going one day into the house of an Ashira chief I saw anogana (idol) , which, after much urging and for good pay, he soldme. Its likeness is given on the preceding page. Its office isto watch over the property of its owner, and keep thieves out ofthe house; and I was assured that no one could, and, what isbetter, no one did steal while this " housekeeper " was cared for,and kept in the house.CHAP. XXV. BLACK-MAIL. 429--CHAPTER XXV.---The Ashira grow jealous of my Projects - Set out for the Apingi Country -Olenda blesses us -The Passage of the Ovigui - Rude Bridge -Featuresof the Country - We meet Gorillas -The Roar of the Gorilla - His WalkGreat Strength - Meet the Apingi King- I fall into an Elephant-hole— Famine — Musquitoes —We see the Rembo Apingi River Receptionamong the Apingi Address of the King -I am offered a Slave for mySupper Wonder of the People at my Appearance -The mysteriousSapadi, a cloven-footed Race - My Clock is thought a guardian Spirit —Iam asked to make a Mountain of Beads and Trade-goods - Fruitfulness of the Women Appearance of the People A Leopard-trap · Invested withthe Kendo - Palm-oil - Palm-wine -Drunkenness universal -Tattooing -Dress of the women Lack of Modesty -I am claimed as a Husband-Weaving of Grass-cloth - Property among the Apingi -The Apingi Loom -The Ndengui — Fetich to kill Leopards - War-belt.-------My determination to go farther into the interior has arousedthe jealousy of the Ashiras. All the chiefs came in to Olendaand expressed their disapproval of my project. They do notwish their trade interfered with, and are fearful, if a white manonce reaches the far East beyond them, those people will not becontent to trade with the Ashira longer. I stated my objects,and that I did not go as trader, but as traveller, and to collectnew animals. At last Olenda said, " This white man must gowhere he wishes. He has been sent to me by my friend Quengueza. He must do what he pleases.""Then the rascally chiefs asked me what I would give them aspresents if I was permitted to go. To this I put on a show ofanger, and asked if I was not their guest, their stranger, andwhy they were so mean as to beg me for my goods? Theyseemed much ashamed. Of course I gave them some triflesafterwards for good will.There was a show of reason for their fears. Among my trainwere several men from Goumbi, slaves of influential men of thattown, who had been sent with me with trade articles, such as theAshira most want, in order to bring back to Goumbi ivory andthe bongo cloth (grass-cloth), which is the staple export of the430 KING OLENDA'S BLESSING. CHAP. XXV.Ashiras. Of course it was feared that not only I, but also thesefellows, would confuse and break up the Ashira monopoly oftrade with the farther interior. It is curious to see how greatlyslaves are trusted in this country. The owners of these fellowshad no security for their return, nor for the goods they intrustedto them; for I, of course, would not become responsible for them.But they were sure to return. They, who were originally themselves from an interior tribe, have come to feel greatly attachedto Goumbi, and look down with contempt on the Ashira, whomthey call " men of the woods. "Dec. 4th. Food has been collected and cooked for my trip. Iam to give the Ashira men six fathoms of cloth each to go with meto the Apingi country and wait for me there. Olenda gave mea numerous band, including three of his sons to accompany me,Minsho, Iguy, and Aiaguy, the latter a very common name here.It rains nearly every day, and every few days we have tremendous storms of wind and rain. All the rivers are swollen,and the prairie looks very green and beautiful.We set out on Dec. 6th. Early in the morning Olenda calledus around him, and after telling his sons to take good care ofme, the venerable old man proceeded formally to bless us, wishingus good success. It was a touching scene. At the close hetook a sugarcane, bit a piece of the pith, and spat a little of thejuice in the hand of each one of the party, at the same timeblowing on the hand. Then he said solemnly, " Let all havegood speed with you, and let it be as smooth (pleasant) as thebreath I blow on your hand." Then Minsho received the cane,which he is to bring back.I found that the prairie was much more swampy to the eastward, towards the foot of the hills, than I had supposed . Wehadto walk through much mud, and often to wade through considerable pools and swamps of standing water, produced by theconstant heavy rains. In one of these swamps we had to wadeup to our middles in muddy water, and some of the party slippeddown on the roots with which the bottom is covered.The forest beyond the line of the prairie is also inhabited. Wepassed over a dozen villages, the people of which flocked out tosee the " white spirit." They were all Ashira.Towards noon we approached the Ovigui River, a mountaintorrent, which was to be crossed by a rude and very dangerousCHAP. XXV. DANGEROUS BRIDGE. 431bridge. This bridge I had dreaded all day, and when at last Isaw it I was by no means reassured. The stream was aboutthirty yards wide, and rushed through the forest overflowing itsbanks. The waters were very swift, and I saw that even a goodswimmer would be helpless here, and would soon be dashed topieces against the fallen trees which jutted out in every direction.Now I swim but very little.The bridge was a complicated, shaky structure, of which theengraving will give the reader some idea.Rude Bridge over the Ovigui.It appears that the Ovigui had its bed, till some years ago, nothere, but some hundreds of yards on the other side.trick that some of the mountain-streams of Africa have.This is aNow in432 AN UNPLEASANT ADVENTURE. CHAP. XXV.the new bed stood certain trees which native ingenuity saw couldbe used as the piers for a bridge. In this place two trees,standing each about seven or eight yards from one side, werechosen. Other trees opposite on the banks were so cut as to fallinto these. Thus were formed two portions of the bridge, andthese, though sufficiently rude, were not seriously bad for atraveller. It now remained to unite the still open space in thecentre, between the two " piers," and here came the tug. Unableto transport heavy pieces of timber, they had thrown across thischasm a long, slender, bending limb, which sagged down in themiddle until, when it bore a man's weight, its centre was threefeet below the surface of the rushing tide. Of course no onecould walk on this without assistance, so a couple of strong vineshad been strung across for balustrades; but as these vines were ofnecessity so slack as to be parallel with the bamboo, they wereofthe very slightest assistance.My heart failed me as I stood looking at this breakneckconcern. To add to the pleasurable excitement of the scene,Minsho told me that this was a much better crossing than someothers they had lower down, but admitted that even here somehalf-dozen of their people had been drowned within a year.I watched the party crossing with great interest. One manslipped when midway, but luckily recovered himself. Hedropped only a box of mine containing two pairs of shoes.Another, who was carrying a gun, so narrowly escaped falling asto drop that, which was also swept off and lost. MeantimeI wondered if I should follow in the wake of my shoes and gun.At last all were across but Minsho. I had stripped to myshirt and trousers, and set out on my trial, followed by Minsho,who had a vague idea that if I slipped he might catch me. Itwas an unpleasant suspense in every way; and as I crossed thecentre part, and felt the current beating against my legs andalmost seeming to have a hold on me, with purpose to drag meaway, I vowed I would never try such navigation again.However, I managed to hold on to the vine and drag myself up, very weak and pale with excitement, but ' outwardlynecessarily calm, as it would not do to let these natives seeme make a difficulty of anything they could do.Again we plunged into the primeval forests of ebony, barwood, India-rubber vines, and other strange woods. After aboutCHAP. XXV. A RUGGED JOURNEY. 433two miles of travel we came to a curious little strip of prairie,which was five or six miles long, but only a few hundred yardswide. This they called Odjiolo, but they could not tell me itsorigin. It was not inhabited.A few miles farther on the path led over a curious steep mountcalled Mount Ocoucou. We had to climb the almost perpendicular sides, and I had to grasp branches or vines as I ascendedthe face of this high hill . Having surmounted that and threeothers, with intervening plains and valleys, all covered with denseforests, we at last found ourselves on the banks of another littlepurling mountain-brook which skirted the base of our last hill,the Aloumy. Here we lit fires, built shelters, and camped forthe night. This day we made but twenty miles, fifteen of whichwere due east.Dec. 7th. As we advance the country becomes more ruggedand mountainous. On every side brooks and rills and smallstreams are wending their way down to the Ovigui, or towardsthe Apingi river, and very frequently we have to march alongthe bed of a purling brook, the only way which the broken androcky country affords us. This day was exceedingly trying forour feet. We picked our way through a forest dense and gloomy,every step obstructed by rocks and broken ground. This isevidently the favourite haunt of gorilla. Several times duringthe day we heard his roar in the distance. We heard also thecry of a nshiego mbouvé at a little distance, and started inpursuit, but the animal made its escape, having probably heardAt the foot of a tree we found some leafy branches gathered,while in another tree was a shelter completed. No doubt a pairhad been at work together. The negroes here told me also thatthese apes work in pairs, both collecting branches, and the malebuilding the shelter when the material is brought together, whilethe female carries it up to him.us.Judging from his cry, one of the gorillas we heard in theafternoon seemed to be so near that I was tempted to hunt himup. He proved farther off than any of us thought. Wewandered nearly three-quarters of an hour through the forestbefore we reached him. His almost incessant roars, whichseemed to denote that he was enraged at something, gave us agood clue to his whereabouts.I find that I do not get accustomed to the roar of the gorilla.2 F434 ACTIONS OF THE GORILLA. CHAP. XXV.Notwithstanding the numbers I have hunted and shot, it is stillan awful sound to me. The long reverberations, coming fromhis potenteous chest; the vindictive bark with which each roaris begun; the hollow monotone of the first explosion , all areawe-inspiring, and proclaim this beast the monarch of theseforests.When the animal became aware of our approach he at oncecame towards us, uttering a succession of the short bark-like yellswhich denote his rage, and which have a peculiarly horribleeffect. They remind one only of the inarticulate ravings of amaniac.Balancing his huge heavy body with his arms the animal cametowards us, every fewmoments stopping to beat his breast, andthrowing his head back to utter his tremendous roar. His fiercegloomy eyes glared upon us; the short hair was rapidly agitated,and the wrinkled face seemed contorted with rage. It was likea very devil, and I do not wonder at the superstitious terror withwhich the natives regard it.His manner of approach gave me once more an opportunityto see with how much difficulty he supports himself in the erectposture. His short and slender legs are not able firmly tosustain the vast body. They totter beneath the weight, and thewalk is a sort of waddle, in which the long arms are used, in aclumsy way, to balance the body and keep up the ill - sustainedequilibrium. Twice he sat down to roar, evidently not trustinghimself to this exertion while standing.My gun was fresh loaded, and could be depended upon, so Istood in advance. I waited, as the negro rule is, till the hugebeast was within six yards of me; then, as he once more stoppedto roar, delivered my fire, and brought him down on his facedead.It proved to be a male, full grown, but young. His hugecanine tusks, his claw-like hands, the immense development ofmuscle on his arms and breast, his whole appearance, in fact,proclaimed a giant strength. There is enough likeness tohumanity in this beast to make a dead one an awful sight, evento accustomed eyes, as mine were by this time. I never quitefelt that matter-of-course indifference, or that sensation oftriumph which the hunter has when a good shot has brought hima head of his choice game. It was as though I had killed someDEATH OFTHE GORILLA .?εSWhitney

CHAP. XXV. FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY. 435monstrous creation, which yet had something of humanity in it.Well as I knew that this was an error, I could not help thefeeling.This animal was five feet eight inches high. In the evening,Minsho brought in a young female he had shot, which measuredthree feet eight inches.As we advanced, the scenery became even more grand andpicturesque. We were already on a high plain or table-land, butour route led us continually to higher levels by regular gradations of ascent. Some of the hills we had to surmount were fromtwo to three thousand feet high. The higher we got, the vasterbecame the piles and boulders of quartz and granite, which seemto have been scattered over the face of all this country by somevast convulsion of nature ages ago.The scenery was already Alpine. It lacked only the snowcapped peaks, of which I have not yet met any. This country isvery abundantly watered, and in the afternoon we passed someconsiderable streams. One of these we traced upwards for severalmiles, as it ran along the foot of some huge hills which we hadto ascend one after another. The highest peaks of this rangewere called the Kayambi and the Boundou, and another calledthe Okoukoue. Where we crossed the stream finally it wasabout one hundred and twenty feet wide. It is called theLouvendji.Passing this, we came at sunset to a bando-a traveller's house-a rude shelter left by former caravans at the foot of a high hillcalled Koungou.The bando was occupied by a party of Apingi, who, when theysaw me, instantly ran off, very much scared. It was only aftermany persuasions that they could be brought back. Presently atremendous tornado came up, followed by rain, which made usglad we had reached shelter. Such storms frequently do greatdamage to the woods, and are very dangerous to travellers, astrees are uprooted, and branches fall on every side.The bando here was roofed with peculiar and very large leavesfrom two trees, which are called here the shayshayray and thequaygayray.To-day we travelled about twenty-five miles in a generaldirection of east.Dec. 8th. This day the country was less wild, and the hills2 F 2436 LEOPARD AND BUFFALO-SERPENTS. CHAP. XXV.very few. We saw in the distance about midday some Bakalaivillages, situated on a little prairie, but my people were afraid toapproach them. No persuasions of mine would induce them togo near. They were afraid, Minsho said, of trouble with theBakalai, who are here a warlike people, and we encamped on theborder of the prairie.Dec. 9th. Last night, fortunately for me, it was clear and brightstarlight. About midnight our camp was awakened by atremendous roaring, and jumping up, I saw in the plain beforeme a grand and exciting scene. A wild buffalo had beenwandering in the woods, and a leopard had leaped upon him.The poor animal rushed, with roar after roar of agony and fright,into and across the plain, vainly plunging and striving to loosethe claws of his enemy, who sat upon his hump, and was, as wecould see, sucking the blood from his neck. The poor beastdoubtless fell a victim to the leopard, whose attack is generallyfatal. It was a splendid sight, though it lasted but for a fewminutes. This is the second scene of the kind which I havebeen favoured with.This day, and also the next ( 10th) , we journeyed along to theeastward, hurried onward by a lack of food. As usual in Africa,all the provisions we could carry could not be made to last abovethree days.As we were walking along through some grass, I came suddenly upon a large specimen of the most poisonous serpentoccurring in this part of Africa: the Echidna nasicornis. Thisand a species of naja are much dreaded by the negroes. I sawit, fortunately, when a few feet from it, and, as it is a sluggishbeast and slow of movement, I had time to fire and kill itbefore it could make a spring. Fortunately, I did not destroythe head, and had therefore an opportunity to examine its reallyenormous poison-fangs, which lay imbedded in the sheaths oneach side of the mouth.The habits of this serpent make it dangerous to the incautioustraveller. It does not climb trees, as do most African serpents,but lies in the grass, or in little open spaces in the woods, in astate of semitorpidity. It leaps with a quick motion whenexcited, and is not easily scared by approaching noises. It isshort--few, I should say, reach even four feet in length-butvery stout, some specimens I killed being six and eight inchesCHAP. XXV. MEETING KING REMANDJI. 437in their greatest diameter. It is splendidly marked, and oneach side of the flat large muzzle it has three horny projections; the posterior one is situated over the nostril, and is thelargest. The head is triangular, the nostrils very large, the tailshort and pointed. The natives say that its bite causes sure,and almost instant and painful death. They hold it in greatfear.On the afternoon of the 10th, as we were passing through adense wood, we heard people talking not far from us, and presently we stood before Remandji, the king of the Apingi tribe.He was a fine-looking old negro. At sight of me he and hiscompany stood silent and amazed for a few minutes, looking at us. Then the king began on a sudden to dance about in amost unroyal and crazy manner, shouting again and again, " Thespirit has come to see me! the spirit has come to see mycountry! "When he was a little pacified he told us he came to fish, andmust now go for his wives, whom he had sent on before, andwho had food. We were directed to go on to a bando not faroff, whither he would return for the night, as his town was toodistant.We went on, hoping that the women would have food for us.Meantime night came on; it grew darker and darker; and aswe did not yet reach our rendezvous, and I was half-famished, Ipushed ahead, to try if I could not kill a stray gazelle for supper.Presently I thought I perceived an animal a little off the path,and, stepping towards it, suddenly pitched head foremost into anelephant-trap, a hole about eight feet long by six feet wide andten deep; a wretched place, where I lay helpless, momentarilyexpecting to see some huge serpent fall on the top of me.I cried out lustily, and fortunately was heard by my peopleand dragged out with a creeper, which they cut and let down tome.In these holes the Apingi catch their elephants. I saw manyof them afterwards. They are ingeniously covered with brushand leaves, but are evident enough to a man who has once seenor fallen into one.Finally we reached the olako, and when Remandji came hehad but a few fish to eat, therefore we poor half- famished fellowshad to go to sleep supperless. All night we endured torments.438 THE REMBO APINGI, CHAP. XXV.indescribable from musquitoes, which must be of a new kind,for their sting was like that of a bee. In the morning ourbodies were swollen as though we had been beaten all over.Smoke and fire seemed to have no effect upon them. I neversuffered such torture in my life.The next morning we started off again, and, after a threehours' march, came at last, by a sudden opening of the forest,upon a magnificent stream, the Rembo Apingi. It was muchlarger than I had been led to expect-about three hundred andfifty yards wide, as far as I could guess, and evidently a considerable body of water. As I stood, in amazement and delight,looking down upon the beautiful stream, whose waters were glidingdown towards the great sea, a tremendous cheer from a crowdwhich had quickly collected about me announced to the people onthe other side, where the villages were, that " the white manhad come. The cheer was responded to by gathering crowds onthe opposite bank, and presently some exceedingly frail, narrowcanoes and several rafts were pushed across to ferry us over.The Apingi have villages only on the farther bank of the river.99I got into a canoe, which was managed by the Apingi boatmenwith much skill. The Ashira know nothing of boating. Therafts were composed of several logs tied together. Their motionwas very slow.The shouting continued until I was safely housed in thelargest house in the town. This was a little hut, with, fortunately, a piazza in front; for, when I had secured my goodsinside, there was scarce room for me to turn.Presently Remandji came to me, followed by all the old menof his town and the chiefs from neighbouring villages. Hebrought me two dozen fowls, and some bunches of plantains,and baskets of cassava, which being laid at my feet, he addressedme, saying, " I have beheld what our forefathers never saw,what I never saw before. I bid welcome to thee, oh whiteman! oh spirit! I thank your father," turning to Minsho, “ forsending this spirit to me, for nothing greater could happento us.""Then he said, " Be glad, oh spirit! and eat of the things wegive thee."Whereupon, to my astonishment, a slave was handed over tome bound, and Remandji said, " Kill him for your evening meal;CHAP. XXV. I AM THOUGHT A CANNIBAL. 439he is tender and fat, and you must be hungry." It took me amoment to recover from my astonishment. Then I shook myhead, spat violently on the ground, and made Minsho tell themthat I abhorred the people who ate human flesh, and that I andmy people never did so.To which Remandji replied, " We always heard that you whitemen eat men. Why do you buy our people? Why do youcome from nobody knows where, and carry off our men, andwomen, and children? Do you not fatten them in your farcountry and eat them? Therefore I gave you this slave, thatyou might kill him, and make glad your heart."It was a difficult matter to explain to the king that he wasmuch mistaken, and that we do not eat our slaves. The wholematter, from his point of view, was absurd. " If we did not eatthem, what did we want them for?" was his incessant question;nor could his majesty be, by any skill of mine, inducted intothe mysteries of our labour system, and of its rules of demandand supply.When at last my meal was cooked and served for me,Remandji came in to taste of what was provided, and to drinkof the water that was set for me. This is a custom observed inevery tribe I have visited, and is to showthe guest that he runsno risk of being poisoned. Even the wives taste of the foodthey set before their husbands, they not being permitted to eatwith the gentlemen of the house.I may add here that the negroes have no prejudices on thesubject of meat, which has died a natural death. Even if itis very high they relish it, and if the beast has died of disease,that makes no odds to their tolerant stomachs.As usual, the people are full of wonder at my appearance.They avoid my glance, they admire my wonderful straight hair,my white skin (which is pretty black by this time), and myclothing; and at last several urgently requested me to take offmy "foot coverings," that they might see if I had toes likethem.I asked with surprise why they had a doubt upon the subject,and was then informed that they had thought perhaps I waslike a people far away in the interior, whom they call theSapadi, and who have cloven feet, like a bush-deer.Now, wherever I have been in Africa, I have heard this440 THE CLOVEN-FOOTED SAPADI. CHAP. XXV.legend; and the nation called Sapadi are always located inmuch the same place-in Central Equatorial Africa. At CapeLopez slaves from the interior had told me of such a people;among the Camma the curious legend is devoutly believed;Quengueza's people mentioned them; and now these Apingiproved believers. I always questioned everybody to get at allthey thought or believed upon the subject.Remandji immediately called one of his slaves and a man ofthe Shimba tribe, both of whom declared positively, and with alook of great truthfulness, that they had seen the Sapadi; thatthey were people, black, and in all things like themselves, onlythey had feet split like a bush-deer's.I asked why they did not capture these people and send themto the coast as slaves; to which was answered that they were sofar off that they did not reach to them.That there was a nation clovenfooted they were firmly persuaded, and no reasoning could shake their belief. Indeed, Isuppose my white skin and straight hair were quite as wonderfulto them as a Sapadi's cloven foot.It is curious that wherever I have heard of this people theyhave had the same name, Sapadi. But the negro has so vividan imagination that all conjectures as to the origin of thesuperstition are vain. Some fellow may have dreamed it, andafterwards infected the country with his dream. Among theCamma many people believe that the whites who make the clothwhich traders bring them are not like us, but a race with butone eye, and that in the middle of the forehead.Dec. 16th. Yesterday I wound my musical-box and set it onan Apingi stool in the street, in the midst of a great crowd whohad come in to see " the spirit. " They were infinitely surprisedand afraid at the sweet sounds, and particularly when I wentaway from it and left it to play alone. They looked from meto the box, and back, and finally exclaimed, " Lo! the devilspeaks to him! " My clock is kept on the piazza, and itsconstant tic-tac, particularly in the still night, when it can beheard all over the village, seems to strike them with awe.They say the spirit watches over me, especially when I sleep,and would kill any one who should try to injure me or myproperty.When they saw me write they at once exclaimed that I wasCHAP. XXV. I AM EXPECTED TO WORK A MIRACLE.441about to make cloth, and this was the pattern. Whereuponensued a council of about thirty Apingi chiefs, who, after duedeliberation, came to, Remandji at their head, and addressedme, saying, " Spirit, you are our king. You have come to ourcountry to do us good. You can do everything." And thenrequested that I would now proceed to make for them a pile ofbeads as high as the highest tree in the village (pointing to it),that they and their women and children might go and take asmuch as they wished. Also cloth, and brass kettles, and copperrods, and guns, and powder. And all the people, who hadgathered around, to the number of several thousands, to listen,answered " Yo! yo! " as a sign of approval.I saw that they really asked in good faith, and had no doubtbut their wishes would be readily fulfilled. They believed fullythat I made by night all the articles which I gave them dayafter day in return for fruits and food, and that I hid them inthe forest during the day, to be produced as occasion required.Nor could I convince them that I had not the power to makethese articles by a simple operation of the will. It was a severedisappointment to all who had gathered from many miles aroundto witness the expected miracle. Most of the Apingi chiefs hadcome hither bringing whole villages of people with them, whoencamped in the forest in such numbers that starvation soonbegan to appear in the camp. Even an Ashango chief hadcome from a hundred miles eastward, so quickly does greatnews travel, bringing some of his people to carry away a shareof the goods which I was to create so miraculously. As theyapproached, the faces of the great crowd were beaming withsatisfaction, and they had so little doubt, that if, indeed, I haddone the wonder they asked, these poor heathen would scarcehave been surprised. It was a most strange and curious sceneto me. They went away grieved, because, as they thought, Irefused to do them a kindness.As the people from all the neighbouring villages came to lookat me, I got a good idea of them without going about myself.The women seem to be very fruitful, more so than with anytribe I have before seen in Africa. Almost every woman I seehas three or four children. But they are hideously ugly, rathersmall, compared with the men, and tattooed all over in a mannerwhich they think beautiful, but which is to me hideous. Both442 APPEARANCE OF THE APINGI. CHAP. XXV.WordwApingi Man and Woman.men and women file their teeth, which gives their faces afrightfully savage appearance.In colour they are rather a yellowish black. Indeed, I haveremarked that, in all parts of the continent, from the bounds ofthe Sahara to the Apingi, the natives of the mountainous regionsof the interior are much lighter than the people of the seaboardand the plains or desert.On the 17th we went into the forest to construct a trap forleopards, two goats having disappeared the night before from aflock belonging to Remandji. The trap was a very singularCHAP. XXV. I AM CHOSEN KING. 443and most ingenious structure. They cut a great many sticks,which were firmly put into the ground close together, and intwo lines or rows, about two feet apart. To make them morefirm, they were tied together with grape-vines, and then moresticks were laid across the top, and also strongly lashed down.One end of the row was left open; the other was closed, alive goat having first been fastened there. This, by its bleating,was to lure the leopard, who, crawling into this cul de sac, hadnot sense enough to get out again, the space being purposelymade too narrow to admit of his turning round. This kindof trap is also used to catch the small gazelle (ncheri), and othersmall animals of the woods; and I afterwards saw such trapsfor the smaller beasts, quite a mile long, with various openings,all turning inward, and admitting, but not emitting the bewil- dered prey.On the 18th I was formally invested with the kendo, which ishere, also, the insignia of the head-man or chief ruler. Remandjiput the kendo over my shoulder, which gave me like power withhimself. It was done in the presence of an immense crowd,who shouted out their approval, and promised to obey me.Remandji said, " You are the spirit, whom we have never seenbefore. We are but poor people when we see you. You areof those whom we have often heard of, who come from nobodyknows where, and whom we never hoped to see. You are ourking and ruler; stay with us always. We love you, and will dowhatyou wish." Whereupon ensued shouts and rejoicings; palmwine was introduced, and a general jollification took place, inthe orthodox fashion at coronations. From this day, therefore, Imay call myself Du Chaillu the First, King of the Apingi. Fewsovereigns have assumed rule with so general approval of theirsubjects, I imagine. Of course, I would not submit to the illusage which the king elect has to undergo here, as among theGaboon or other tribes, before his investiture; therefore it wasomitted in my case.The kendo used here is made by the Shimba, a tribe stillfarther east, who are reputed the greatest workers in iron in allthis region. From them all these interior tribes obtain the fewiron articles they possess.This country is full of palm-trees, of the kind the fruit of whichyields oil. I never saw such vast quantities of palms, all hanging444 COSTUME OF THE WOMEN. CHAP. XXV.full of ripe nuts. Thousands of tuns of oil might easily be madehere, and transported on rafts by water to the seaboard, ifonly the trade could once be opened. The Apingi eat the nuts,and seem to thrive upon them. Indeed, I incline to the beliefthat this nutritious food is one cause of the superior fertility ofthe Apingi women. They make but little oil, and use thatchiefly to rub on their heads and bodies. The Ashira are theironly customers, and that to the extent of only a few calabashesof oil annually, for which they pay such a trifle that it is notworth their while to make it.They are fond of the palm-wine, and go out regularly into theforest to obtain it. In my wanderings and hunts, I often saw thecalabash hung to a tube inserted in the tree; the owner comesfor it early in the morning, and generally drinks it in the forestalone, lest, if he took it into the village, some thirsty friend mightbeg a drop. They do not kill the tree to get the juice, as domany other tribes. The men love to get drunk. I have seenhalf the men in a town drunk at the same time. But it must besaid for the women that they are much more temperate, thoughsometimes they also get drunk.The women have a particular form of tattooed lines whichis thought most beautiful. A broad stripe is drawn from theback of the neck along the shoulders, across the breasts, meetingin an acute angle in the hollow of the chest. Other stripes aredrawn in curves along the back, and from the breast down overthe abdomen. The more of these marks, the greater is thebeauty. They are permitted to wear only two of the littlesquares in which the Apingi grass-cloth is made, and consequently, go nearly naked, while their husbands are often fullycovered. I cannot divine the origin of this custom; but it hasrobbed the women of any remnant of modesty which existsnaturally in other tribes. They do not seem to have a traceleft, and yet are not lewd or forward. Remandji's head- wife orqueen, a rather pretty young woman, after the Apingi custom,came with her husband one day to see me. I gave her a pieceof bright cotton cloth, which delighted her so much that sheimmediately began, to my great dismay, to disrobe herself, inorder to put on my present. But when she had reduced herselfto a state of nature, something else of my goods attracted herattention, and she began to talk and look around her with theCHAP. XXV. I AM CLAIMED AS A HUSBAND. 445most complete unconcern for some time, before she bethoughther of the neglected cloth, with which she endued herself veryleisurely.I had a little adventure with another of the women. Theking, on my arrival, signified to me, with the usual liberality ofAfrican kings, that any of his wives, or any of anybody else'swives that pleased my eyes, I was requested to consider my own.I, of course, replied that in our country we did not marry in thisoff-hand way; which he could not at all understand. As, however,the women are the housekeepers, when I was settled a little Ichose one of the oldest and ugliest that I saw, and installedher as my housekeeper, cook, and maid of all work. For twoor three days all went well. But one morning I was waitedupon by a deputation of men and women, who hailed me withmuch joy as their relative; thanked me for the honour I haddone them in taking their relative to wife; and gravely askedme for presents to make their hearts glad on such a joyful occasion.I confess that for once I lost my temper. I took a stick anddrove my new relatives out of the village, packed off my slandering housekeeper after them, and heaped all the abuse uponthem I was master of in Apingi. They fled with the utmostconsternation.When I told Remandji of the affair, he laughed and said,"You see-why don't you take my advice? "The Apingi are, for Africans, a very industrious people. Themen do some work here, and this is an extraordinary sight inWestern Africa. They use the fibrous parts of the leaf of apalm, which grows in great abundance here, to make a finegrass-cloth, for which they are noted among all the tribes. Itis called mbongo when in squares, and, by the tedious course oftrade from tribe to tribe, comes even to the seashore. Theother tribes farther eastward also make this cloth. They toldme that this palm (which is a new species not familiar to me)perished when it had once borne seed. Though found growingwild, it is also planted about all their houses, and along withsome fruit-trees which they rear, is property which only theowner may use.The holding of property in trees of any kind is something newto me in Africa, and shows that the Apingi have made a very446 WEAVING ― GRASS-CLOTH. CHAP. XXV.important step in advance of the Bakalai and Shekiani, and allthe other tribes I have met. Moreover, an Apingi village standsand remains in the same place, at least for a long time. They area settled people, and need only flocks and cattle to make thema very prospering nation. Among the other tribes described inthis book, a town is only a temporary resting-place, abandonedat the first death; land and trees, of whatever kind, are free toanyone; and even with the Mpongwe of the Gaboon, who havelong been under trading influence, though they cannot affordto remove a whole town, the house in which a man has died isdestroyed, never to be raised again on the same spot. Thereader will appreciate the delight with which I hailed a people who live on the same spot for several generations; whocultivate and acknowledge private property in trees; and whomake cloth.The men are the weavers among the Apingi. The loom isa complicated instrument, much resembling that used by theAshira, who have, no doubt, got it from these neighbours oftheirs. The loom is stretched under the piazza of the house,and it is a very pretty and cheering sight, as one walks alongthe street, to see a number of busy weavers weaving this fineand very useful cloth.The Apingi have the reputation of making the softest grasscloth in all this region. Some of their coloured patterns arevery pretty. The pieces, owing to the short staple of the fibreused, and their inability to give it a longer twist, are never morethan three feet long by about two wide. To work in colours,they first dye the threads, and very ingeniously work them inin the weaving. It is a day's work to make one plain square;and to make one of the coloured ones takes two, and sometimesthree days. The square is about two feet long and eighteeninches in width. When sent off to be sold they are tied up inpackages of twenty or thirty. In this shape they find their wayeven down to the coast, and are everywhere used for garments,and also for musquito-bars. My bars were always of this stuff.The natives prefer it to our common trade-cottons; and here, inApingi- land, the people did not care to exchange their cloth formine, for which I did not blame them.To make a ndengui several of the mbongo pieces are sewedtogether with grass thread and a wooden needle, and the sewingCHAP. XXV. A FETICH TO KILL LEOPARDS. 447is done quite as neatly as ours. The men are the tailors. Fromsix to nine cloths go to a ndengui. The dandies among theApingi wear sometimes a cloth thrown over the shoulder, morefor ornament than use. The women are strictly restricted tothe very moderate costume I have already described.18th. Yesterday I told Remandji I wanted to go on aleopard-hunt. He immediately brought me a man who had afetich which enabled him to kill leopards ad libitum, and withoutpersonal danger. I laughed. The man said, " Laugh, oh whiteman! but you will see. "He went through a mass of ceremonies, then told me I mustnot accompany him, but that next day I should see a leopard.His big monda would help him.This morning he started, and to my surprise, came in in theafternoon with a handsome leopard. He asked so much for theskin, which they value for ornaments, that I would not buy it.I suppose they must be plentiful in the forest, and shall go outand kill for myself.The strip of skin cut from the head along the spine to the tailis used here as a war- belt, after being charmed by the fetichman or ouganga. This makes the wearer invulnerable, they say.No spear, or arrow, or bullet can hit a man who has such a beltOf course, as only one belt can be made from each skin,and nothing but a leopard's skin will answer, these bear a highprice, every warrior placing a great account upon his personalsafety.on.448 SINGULAR CAUSE FOR FEAR. CHAP. XXVI.CHAPTER XXVI.--- -――-- The Ceremony of―-Preparations-Bible-reading -The Negroes are frightened and run away -Bongo- Its Importance -Curious Phase of African Slaveryto ascend the River- Apingi Villages Fetiches - Superstitions - SpidersCurious Manner of Catching their Prey - New Animals - Capsized -Putrid Corpse in a Village - Curious Manner of Burial -Leave the RiverThe Region beyond - Return to Remandji's Town - Explore the Mountains The Isogo -Beyond the Isogo - Ultima Thule -My Shoes give out - Starvation - Great Suffering - Shoot a Gorilla - Illness Homesick The Return to the Seashore -Etita: a very singular DiseaseThe Remedy Heavy Rains — An uncomfortable Night- Fierce Attackof Bashikouay Ants — Difference of Seasons - Arrival in Biagano —Close.December 19th was Sunday by my account. I sat in my hutand read the Bible, and a great crowd came around and watchedme with wondering eyes. I explained to them that when Iread it it was as though God talked with me. Then, to gratifythem, I read aloud, and afterwards tried to explain to themsomething of the teachings of Christ. Presently I let the leavesof the book slip through my hands to show them how manythere were. To my great surprise, the little noise I thus madeseemed to frighten them very much. In an instant the wholecrowd, Remandji and all, had disappeared, with symptoms ofthe greatest terror. My first effort to speak to them the Wordof God seemed to meet with little success.By-and-by I persuaded some to come back, and they told methat the noise I made was like that made by their spirit. Theyseemed to think that I had some communication with Ococoo,who is their chief spirit.To- day many people returned to their villages disappointedthat I did not make for them cloth, copper, and iron, whichnothing will convince them that I cannot make in great profusion by a mere effort of the will.On the 20th, as I was speaking with Remandji, a man cameand laid his hands on the chief's head. He said, " Father, Iwant to serve you. I choose you for my master, and will neverreturn to my old master."This ceremony is called bongo, and is a curious phase ofCHAP. XXVI. THE CEREMONY OF BONGO. 449African slavery. It obtains more or less in all the tribes. Whena slave gets hard treatment from his master, and has reason tobe dissatisfied, he slips off to another village and chooses forhimself a new master. This man is obliged to accept and protect him. He cannot refuse. Nor is any " palaver " made onthis account. No one, for instance, could hold Remandji responsible for this act. He may even visit immediately the villagefrom which the slave has run away; only the slave himself mustnot go back thither, else he exposes himself to be reclaimed.The bongo is given always to a person of another village, andalways to one of another family or clan in the same tribe. Thetechnical term is to " beat bongo," in allusion to the laying onof hands. This singular custom has a marked influence on thecondition of the slaves, who have always open to them this legitimate and tolerably easy avenue of escape from tyranny. Itprevents families being separated, in particular, for nothing willmake a slave leave his master so quickly as to have his wifesold away from him.To-day canoes were being procured for an ascent of the river.They got quite a little fleet together for me; but all are small,and so easily capsized, that navigation is by no means comfortable to me, who can scarce swim a stroke. However, there was nohelp for it, so I prepared for accidents by tying my compass to acord fastened about my neck, then tied my gun fast by a longrope to the canoe, which would float in any case, and took, besides this, only a little box containing a change of clothes andtwo pairs of shoes (the most necessary article hereabouts to thetraveller). Then Remandji, myself, and a paddler, got in andstarted, followed by the fleet.The canoes are quite flat in the bottom, float almost entirelyabove water, and are very well designed to stem the swift current of this river, which runs, at this time of the year, at the rateof four or five miles per hour.Before we started necessity compelled me to spend a morningat the river-side washing my clothes. The negroes have so littleidea of even the commonest cleanliness, that they never washtheir scanty garments. When I make a considerable stay withany tribe I generally manage to teach some woman how to wash.It is a disagreeable labour, which I cannot bear. I would muchrather cook, though that generally falls to some one else.2 G450 UP THE RIVER. CHAP. XXVI.We ascended the river at very slow speed, passing the shoresat the rate of about two or three miles the hour. The peoplesang as they paddled. I sat very still and very uncomfortablyin the bottom of the boat.We passed several villages in about three hours after starting.These Apingi villages are not as pretty to look upon as those ofthe Ashira. In the latter I find always a verandah next thehouse, where the cooking is done; while in the Apingi housethe same room has to serve as store-room, bed- room, and kitchen.The Apingi houses are built of bark, as the Ashira, and the roofis made of large leaves. There is generally one larger house inthe village, which belongs to the chief. The villages have nohigh fence of pickets, which is an evidence that the people arenot warlike.We landed at the village of Agobi, a chief I had seen before.He gave me some fowls, but complained that the leopards hadeaten up all his goats. I saw here the largest ashangou-tree Iever saw. It was hung full of the olive-shaped fruit. This islarger than our olives, quite fleshy, and, when ripe, of a dark redcolour. This tree, and a number of others, Agobi told me hadbeen planted by his grandfather, which shows that property hasbeen respected among these people for at least two or threegenerations. Most of these villages are surrounded by groves ofthese trees. The fruit is boiled, and has then an agreeable acidityboth pleasant and wholesome in this climate.*I find that the superstitions of this people are as great as thoseof the tribes nearer the sea. They hold that death is caused bywitchcraft; but yet they do not remove after every death as dothe Camma, Shekiani, Bakalai, and the other tribes. Amongthe seashore tribes the Apingi have great repute as wizards,and Apingi-land is the land of aniemba, where anyone maylearn to become a powerful sorcerer. Consequently, the Apingifetiches are very highly valued by the coast tribes, especiallythose professing to remove barrenness. I had special instructions from a number of childless fathers in my town on the seashore to bring them some Apingi mondas, but the price provedIn the forests near the seashore is found a tree belonging to the samefamily as the ashangou, and which is there called the ashafou. But the fruit of this is less fleshy and more acid than that of the ashangou, and, when ripe,is of a rosy hue..VILLAGE APINGIN

CHAP. XXVI. IMMENSE SPIDERS. 451too high for my means and my good-nature, and I did not,either, care to give any such indorsem*nt to their superstitiousnonsense.In the evening we had a dance, and Agobi, bent on theutmost civility, sent some women to dance for my especialdelectation. I quickly sent them back, preferring to take myamusem*nts with the mass. The African dances are much alikeeverywhere, and had long ceased to amuse me.To-day I enquired of a young man, who had for wife theprettiest woman in the Apingi country, why he was so ragged;his ndenguy being all torn and worn out. He calmly answered," This woman has entirely ruined me." I asked how it had happened, and he replied that in order to get possession of herfrom her husband, he had been obliged to give all he possessedin the world. From this conversation I learned that it wascustomary in the Apingi country, that when a man fell in lovewith his neighbour's wife, and she in her turn loved him, thelover might secure her for himself by giving the same amountin goods or slaves to the husband as he had given to obtain herin the first instance. Under such circ*mstances he cannot refuse, and the woman becomes the wife of another. Howeverrepugnant this system may appear to us, I have no doubt thatamong the Apingi this rule prevents quarrels, or even wars,which otherwise would take place among these villages.As I was walking through the forest on a hunt the next day,I was bitten by one of the immense yellow- spotted spiders whichare so numerous in all the African woods and openings, and inthe huts of the natives as well. Some of the spiders of thiscountry grow to an immense size. I have frequently seen themwith a body as large as a sparrow's egg. The house- spider,which lives chiefly on flies and co*ckroaches, is mostly of a dullgray, which conceals its approach in the gloom of the hut. Onespecies of house- spider does not make a web for its prey, so faras I have been able to discover. It conceals itself during theday in the crevices of the hut, and preys only by night. Atthe approach of evening, the co*ckroaches, which so swarm inevery African hut, come forth to act their part of scavengers.Then, by the dim light of a torch, and half-smothered with theheat, I have, for hours at a time, watched the motions of thisspider. It comes out very carefully from its lair, and, having2 G 2452 VARIOUS SPECIES OF SPIDERS. CHAP. XXVI.got a good station, remains perfectly rigid and motionless oftenfor half-an-hour, waiting for some unlucky co*ckroach to pass by.At last the co*ckroach rushes past. In an instant the spiderhas pounced upon him. Now ensues a tug and battle which isof the greatest interest, and which is often prolonged for halfan-hour. The great African co*ckroach grows to the size of analmost full-grown mouse, and is a strong and somewhat formidable animal to the spider. The latter fastens on its back, and,to prevent being borne off, clings with two of his hairy legs tothe floor or sides. All the co*ckroach's endeavours are to escape. He tugs and jerks, and often succeeds in dragging hisoff for some distance. enemy Then the spider manages tocatch hold with his feet again, and once more the struggle isrenewed. All this time, however, the spider is sucking away atthe juices of the co*ckroach, and so presently the struggles growweaker and weaker, and the poor co*ckroach succumbs: whereupon his enemy drags off the body to some corner, where it canbe finished at leisure.Another very large house-spider spins a web, and catches itsprey of flies and co*ckroaches as ours do.But the largest and most numerous species are found in theforest. The large black and yellow spotted one by which Iwas bitten spins its web in every wood. The web is a brightyellow, like the same colour in the spider's body. It is generallyplaced in an open space between two shrubs, and is often threefeet in diameter. The thread is very coarse, and so strong thatwhen, walking rapidly, I have inadvertently run against such aweb, I have felt a very perceptible resistance to my progress.The bite of this insect is very painful, but not poisonous. Thepain, which is like running a red-hot needle into the flesh, is soonoyer, and the wound heals up immediately. I have been severaltimes bitten by this spider.One or two species have very short legs, and flat, oval bodies,surrounded by pointed spurs, looking, when taken from theirwebs, more like bugs than veritable spiders. All the woodspiders use webs to entangle their prey. They are of manycolours; but none are poisonous to man, so far as I have beenable to discover, by the personal trial of being bitten, or by thereport of the natives.Also, during my stay at Agobi's village, I shot two very re-CHAP. XXVI. A REMARKABLY SMALL SQUIRREL .markable little animals.453One, called by the Apingi the kendo,is a squirrel, and the smallest, by far, yet known. It is given, inThe Kendo Squirrel ( Sciurus minutus) -natural size.its actual size, in the accompanying engraving, made from mystuffed specimen. It is a graceful, lively little animal, leapingfrom branch to branch, sitting up on its hind legs to gnaw its food,carrying its tail over its back, and in all respects acting like itslarger brethren. I have called this new species, Sciurus minutus. *It seems to me one of the most curious and graceful littleanimals I saw in Africa. When my guide saw my shot, and thepoor little thing tumbling to the ground, he was greatly amazedat such skill; and when we got back to the village, the negroestold me, with astonishment, that this was the first time they hadever known a kendo killed. They concluded that I had a verypowerful monda, by whose aid alone I could accomplish suchwonders. Many have begged me to make them mondas to give them skill in the hunt.

• For description see ' Proceedings of the Boston Soc. Nat. Hist. ' , 1860, p. 366.

454 THE ANOMALURUS BELDENI. CHAP. XXVI.On another day, as I was hunting in the forest, I came to animmense tree, whose vast trunk was covered and hung aboutwith a great number of dead vines. Such trees are the commonresort of nocturnal animals and birds, which here find cozy nookswherein to conceal themselves by day; and I immediately proceeded to examine the vines for a prize of this kind. PresentlyI saw something, which, being brought down by the gun, provedto be an Anomalurus. On examination, to my joy, I found it anew species. The animals ofthe genus Anomalurus are very rare,and, so far, only four species are known, including this which Ishot, and of which this specimen in my collection is the only oneI was able to secure. It is a beautiful little animal, with softfur. Its flying membrane permits it to fly downward; but I donot think it is equal to an upward flight, as the membrane is notlarger than in those of other species which I have shot, andwhich I know were not able to fly upward. *I named this little animal the Anomalurus Beldeni, in remembrance of my good friend George Mortimer Belden, Esq. , ofNew York.On the 20th we made about thirty miles up stream. On the22nd we started again, and made some ten miles more, througha beautiful but mountainous country, and over as noble a riveras the heart of a steamboat captain could wish for. No rapidsimpeded our progress, and, though the current was strong, thewater was everywhere of good depth, averaging from three tofour fathoms. This is the rainy season. The songs of numerousbirds resounded gaily over the waters, and the busy hum ofinsect life came with a gentle buzz to us as we voyaged along.Everything was clad in brightest green. The river-bank, downto the very water's edge, was a mass of verdure. It was aspleasant a country as could be seen anywhere in America, onlylacking the softening touch of human culture to make it perfect.In the afternoon, near sunset, the accident which I had provided against happened. A canoe, attempting to cross the rapidriver, was borne down by the current, and, before we could getout of the way, swept down upon us. In a moment both frailboats were capsized, and the men were swimming for the shore.As for poor me, I dared not trust my unskilful self to the6 * For a detailed description naturalists are referred to Proceedings of Boston Soc. Nat. Hist .' for 1860.CHAP. XXVI. WE ARE CAPSIZED. 455geAnomalurus Beldeni.stream. I clung to the canoe. Happily, we were not far fromshore, and Remandji and my paddler soon dragged the boat towhere I could get a footing and wade out. I could not helplaughing at the old woman whose canoe had caused the accident.She swam off down stream like a buoy, shouting continually,"Where is my bunch of plantains? Give me my plantains!"456 NEW-BORN CHILDREN MURDERED. CHAP. XXVI.Climbing out at a bend of the river, she waited for her capsizedcanoe to float along, secured that, and then got in again andpaddled off, full of complaints at losing her plantains. All theseApingi swim like so many fishes, and, I suppose, have occasionenough for the accomplishment, with their little co*ckle-shells ofboats.Wet as I was, and with my little box of clothes and riflesoaking, we marched off to a village near which we were capsized.As we entered, my nostrils were assailed by a most horrible andloathsome smell, as of meat in the last stage of putrescence.The whole village was tainted, and my stomach was quite turnedwith the abominable stench. On inquiry, I learned that it proceeded from the putrid corpse of a man who had died seven daysago. It is their custom to keep the body just as long as it willhold together. It lies in the house in which it died, and theonly wonder is that the stench does not breed a disease.I at once told Remandji that I could not stay there unless theyburied the corpse immediately. I was accordingly conducted tothe windward end of the village, where the air was but littletainted. Judge of my astonishment, when presently a man appeared, bearing upon his shoulders the nearly naked and festering body. They had determined that it was as well to humourmy prejudice, and this was the funeral cortège. They make nocoffin, but always bear the corpse out on the shoulders of thenearest male relative. No man follows the deceased to his lastresting-place. There is no cemetery, and they leave the body atbut little distance from the village. No grave is dug, but it islaid in a cleared space, and near it are placed some tusks ofivory, or some of the bracelets or other ornaments of deceased.While I was in this village a woman gave birth to twins, andone of the children was immediately killed, the negroes of thisand most of the other tribes holding that if both are permittedto live the mother will die. In Obindji's town I once saw twoboys, seven years old, who had both escaped, and their mothertoo; but all the people looked upon her as a remarkable woman.Salt is very scarce here, and bears a high value. It is allbrought from the seashore, the Cape Lopez people making considerable quantities yearly, which is then scattered over the interior, Here, among the Apingi, it is so scarce that ten poundsof poor salt will buy a boy slave. It is a great luxury; I haveCHAP. XXVI. THE FALL OF SAMBA NAGOSHI. 457little doubt that they suffer for the lack of it. I think thefrequency of skin-diseases and ulcers here is caused, partly, bylack of salt. Yet the Apingi have less disease of these kindsthan the Bakalai. But they do not, like the Bakalai, eat somuch tainted and diseased meat, and they consume a great dealmore oil than those, this being a poor country for hunting, butabounding in palm-oil palms, which furnish them a considerableportion of their food.Dec. 23rd. Having no fit canoe, I am obliged to give up myprojected farther ascent of the river. So far as I have ascended,the Rembo Apingi runs nearly due south. It is, I should judge,from three to four hundred yards wide, of good depth, and witha rapid current. The villages are mostly situated on heights alittle removed from the river-banks. There is no change intheir habits, nor do the women improve either in beauty or invariety of costume as the traveller ascends.We returned to Remandji's town on the evening of the 24th,and next day, having procured the largest, stoutest canoe Icould find, I set off down the river to try to get a glimpse of thegreat wonder of this region, the great fall of Samba Nagoshi, ofwhich I had already heard so much. I was accompanied by adozen canoes full of negroes. The stream is very rapid. Thiswas the rainy season, and the banks were filled, the water turbidand yellow, and the current swift, running at the rate of aboutfive miles an hour. We swept rapidly down stream past thevillages of the Kamba, Aviia, Osounga, and Njavi tribes.The scenery grew grander and bolder as we advanced. Themountains neared; the banks became high and precipitous; theforce of the current increased; and every mile of downwardprogress seemed to bring us to a more magnificent country. Atlast we could hear the dull boom of the fall in the distance. Thenegroes told me it was still a long distance off-as near as Icould tell, at least five or six miles; but even here the riverbegan to break up into rapids, and navigation in the smallApingi canoes became too dangerous to risk it farther. So Ipulled the canoe to shore, and called a halt. By this time itwas nearly dark. We had come down from Remandji's aboutsixty miles. We made our camp by the side of the stream, andin hearing of the fall, which I determined to see the next dayby an overland journey.458 THE FALL OF SAMBA NAGOSHI. CHAP. XXVI.The mighty roar of the fall sounded in my ears all night,and next morning I wished to start early to see it. But, alas!no one would accompany me. The men represented that somehostile Bakalai lived in the forest on the way, who would killthem; and after a survey of the almost impenetrable jungle, Ihad to give up all idea of trying it alone, which had been myfirst thought. So, after much fruitless inquiry and vain effortwith my cowardly followers, I had to abandon all hope of seeingthis remarkable fall. That I missed, when so near it, so fine asight, was a severe disappointment to me; but the traveller inAfrica learns, by bitter experience, to yield to circ*mstancesnow and then, and to feel thankful if, on the whole, he hasaccomplished the main part of his undertaking, even with suchunpleasant drawbacks as this.That the fall of Samba Nagoshi is a majestic sight all the descriptions of the negroes go to prove. It is the great marvel ofwhich all the tribes have heard, even those who live at a distance,and of which all speak with awe and wonder. Better proof yetis the very considerable volume of water which the RemboApingi brings down here, as well as the great roar, which filledthe air at the distance of, I judge, four or five miles, nearer thanwhich I did not get, on account of the rapids. I have namedthis fall in my map the Eugénie, in honour of her Majesty theEmpress the of French.My men told me that before the moving hither of the savageand treacherous Bakalai, the Apingi used to penetrate downriver as far as the Anenga tribe, who command the junction ofthe Rembo Ngouyai, and the Rembo Okanda. The tribes onthis bank of the river are named, commencing above, the Njavi,Evili, Ngaloi, and Anenga. I have seen (on my trip up theOgobay) a few of the last two tribes, who speak the language ofthe Mpongwe.I was assured that the Rembo Okanda was much larger thanthe Rembo Ngouyai, and I know that its shores must be populous, for from there are brought a great many of the slaveswhich supply the Cape Lopez market. Remandji, who had beenover the ground, informed me that the Rembo Okanda was fiveor six days' journey off, to the north or north-west, and that theintervening country was very mountainous. He named thefollowing tribes as inhabiting this fine river: the Meouandji,CHAP. XXVI. EXPLORATIONS EASTWARD. 459the Mosheho, the Madouma, the Njavi, the Npovi, and theMoshobo.Next to the Apingi, up the river, are the Aponon. They aresaid to speak the Ashira dialect, inhabit immense prairies, whichare covered with high, thick grass, and are a warlike people.They showed me some horns from this district which belonged toan animal unknown to me. The river, according to them, continued to flow in a southerly direction.Next to the Aponon lived the Ashango; but on the rightbank, while the Aponon inhabit the left. The Ashango prairieswere three long days' journey away, to the south and east. Thepeople catch and tame wild goats, which they then sell to thetribes west of them.Beyond these lie the Njavi, and in their country a great fall orrapid obstructs the river, which is even there a very large stream.Beyond the Njavi is an unknown land even to the Apingi, whohad never been even as far as there, but from which they hearthrough their slaves.Onthe 28th I set out on an exploration of the mountain-range,which extends almost due east so far as I can see from thehighest point near Remandji's village, and from the river as faras I ascended. The chief accompanied me. He would not gofar, but I determined to follow this range as far as I could.The problem I wished to solve was whether it continued itseasterly direction, and to what probable distance.On the first day we made twenty-five miles due east. Westopped for the night in an Apingi village. We were receivedwith shouts of welcome. Most of the people had already seenme on my first arrival in Remandji's village. The next morningwe set out again, and, travelling eastward about twenty miles,reached at nightfall an Isogo village, the chief of which was oneof Remandji's numerous fathers-in-law.The men armed and stood on the defensive, and the womenscreamed and ran away when they saw me coming. If Remandjihad not been with me, I suspect I should have had difficulty inexplaining my wishes before I was transfixed with spears.When Remandji explained that I was a mighty spirit, but tothem quite harmless, they were satisfied, and furnished ussupper and a sleeping-place.These people speak the same dialect as the Apingi, but are460 ROUGH JOURNEYING. CHAP. XXVI.by the latter considered an inferior people-why, I could nottell, for their houses, dresses, and customs are quite alike.We were now in the midst of the hills which constitute therange I have spoken of. The Isogo inhabit the higher plains,and have many villages. They told me that the mountainsextend in an easterly direction as far as they had gone, whichwas several days' journey.To this point Remandji's son accompanied me. We travelledeastward, and at the last of the Isogo villages the chief tookleave of me. A party of Isogo and Apingi agreed to accompany me as far as the Ashango villages, which they said lay inthe mountains, about three days' journey off.The air is tolerably pure and cool on these high mountains;my spirits were high; I was now going straight east, and,though I had not goods enough with me to pass me very far,yet my depôt at Remandji's village was sufficiently supplied topay all I might owe. My hopes were bright that I might nowpenetrate at least 400 miles direct east, and settle the questioned extension of this hitherto unknown mountain-range sofar across the continent.We started on the 29th. The way was somewhat rocky, andthe forest dense. Roads there were not, and my companionsdid not even know the country. We travelled by compass,avoiding the eminences, and keeping, the greatest part of thetime, the rocky rivulets for our paths. Of course such pathswere terrible for my shoes. The first day I wore out a pair ofshoes, the heels giving way. Fortunately, I had provided aspare pair, and I was able to go on the next day. On the firstnight, as we slept around our fire , we were awakened by thescream of a leopard, which did not, however, come within shot,nor did we venture after it, as man has no fair chance with thisanimal by night. When the leopard ceased his cries, a terribletornado came up, which broke down trees and branches allaround us, and this was followed by a heavy rain- storm, withstrong lightning, which lasted till five o'clock, A.M.The next morning, donning my fresh pair of shoes and makinga frugal breakfast of plantains, we set out again. The majesticforest through which we travelled seemed to be quite devoid oflife, except indeed insect life. Once in a while I ran againstthe web of the great yellow spider, and occasionally we heardCHAP. XXVI. LONELY GRANDEUR OF THE FOREST. 461the cry of some little birds. But no larger animals had lefttheir traces in our sight. My gun seemed a useless encumbrance. Not even a monkey showed himself.The gloom of the woods was something quite appalling to thespirits. It seemed a fit place for the haunt of some sylvanmonster, delighting in silence and the shades of night. I wason the look-out for gorillas; but the natives did not seem toexpect to find even many of them here, though they knew theanimal.These lifeless forests, so different from the teeming woods ofSouthern Africa, fill the traveller with awe. Dependent in agreat degree upon his rifle for his living, the miserable explorerfinds himself here in momentary danger of starvation. For ofthe cumbrous provision of the negroes it is quite impossible tocarry an adequate supply. With starvation staring us in theface, we pushed on energetically, and by the evening of thesecond day had made, by my reckoning, about sixty-five milesfrom the last Isogo village, in a crooked direction, or a littlemore than a hundred from Remandji's town.The next day (Dec. 31st) we hoped to reach the Ashangocountry, where we could rest. We had not yet shot anythingbut two little birds, which I had for supper this day. My menhad still a little plantain left.The next day, the first of 1859, and, alas! the last of my eastward tour, we set out early, determined to reach help beforenight, for our provisions were no longer sufficient to encumberus. The ground had been getting rougher all the day before;our paths were the course of streams; and now, about two inthe afternoon, occurred what I had been dreading. My lastpair of shoes gave out completely. They were torn, both upperand sole, and at every step my bleeding feet were more andmore torn, till at last the agony grew too great, and I could notset a step forward without almost an accompanying scream .There was yet no sign of an inhabited country. Far as wecould see below us and ahead-and this was not far-we sawonly dense forests.The pain obliged me to lie down near a brook where I hadstopped to bathe my wounded feet. We built a fire, and, keeping my gun in readiness for any passing game, I sent my menahead to see if they could spy out a village. Evidently the462 STARVATION AND SUFFERING. CHAP. XXVI.vague report of a three days' journey was a delusion and asnare. The men were themselves ignorant of localities, andonly kept up their spirits because I showed no signs of alarm.They returned after an hour, reporting nothing in sight.Then we made our camp for the night. I tied up my shoes aswell as I could for to-morrow's journey; we ate the last of ourplantains; I took a mouthful of brandy, and we went to sleep.Thus ended New Year's day, 1859. Next morning my poorfeet were more swollen than ever. They would not fit into thetorn shoes at all. Howto progress I did not know. To advancewas plainly impossible without provisions. The men gathered afew wild berries and nuts, on which we made a kind of breakfast, and then I took out from a little sack, in which it hadlong been laid away, an American flag, which I had meant toplant upon my farthest point. I did not think, when monthsI sewed it snugly in its cover, that I should feel so bitterlydisappointed at having to use it.agoKeeping one man with me, I sent the rest to ascend a littlepeak which rose not far on my right. Even from its top theview could not but be confined, on account of the thick forest.I gave them my gun to shoot anything alive they might see tomake the pot boil; commanded them to hang the bright littleflag from the top of the highest tree they could climb, and thento report to me what they saw beyond this, our farthest point.The good fellows were gone two hours. They came backwith a small monkey and a serpent nearly twelve feet long, ofthe boa species. The monkey they gave me. The snake madethem a meal, and something over.Then, finding it impossible to advance farther, I sent twomen to climb the highest tree in sight, and fasten the Americanflag at its top. When it floated out on the breeze, I made mymen give three cheers for the star-spangled banner, and dividedthe remains of my brandy among them.Having eaten our dinner, and breakfast, and supper all inone, I drank a glass of wine to the health of friends at home,then carefully bandaged my feet with the sleeves of my shirt,forced them gently into the ragged shoes, and we set out on ourway back. It was a sorry day for me. I longed more than Ican tell to advance. It seemed too great a disappointment tostand as I did just here to have within my grasp, almost, theCHAP. XXVI. ILL AND HOME- SICK. 463solution of a curious and important geographical problem, andto leave it unsolved.Of the journey back I have but a dim and feverish recollection. I remember that my feet got worse instead of better;that when the wretched shoes were beyond even tying togetherwith vines, I cast them away, and bandaged the feet with whatremained of my shirt. That on the second and third day ofour journey we had not even a little bird to eat, but plungedforward in a stupid apathy of hunger and pain. That on thefourth morning one of the men espied a gorilla, who cameroaring towards us, beating his vast chest, and waddling up tothe attack with such horrid utterances and soul-freezing aspect,eyes glaring and the monstrous face distorted with rage, thatfor once, waking out of my dreamy stupor, and seeing thisimage of the devil coming upon us, I would have run if my feetwould have borne me. I remember that when my gun- carriershot the huge beast, the men rushed upon it, and tore ratherthan cut it up, to stifle with its loathed flesh the hunger whichwas gnawing at their vitals.Then we went on, relieved for a time from starvation, I dragging my bleeding, bare, and swollen feet over the rough andthorny ground, till at last, at noon of the fifth day, we came tothe Isogo towns.Here I lay but half- conscious for three days. The peoplebrought me food; the kind women bathed and oiled my feet.Women are ever kind and ready to help the helpless, even inbrutalised Africa.And now, in this long sickness, I began to wish for home. Ilonged to get back to the sea. Each day I became less patientwith my inactive condition, more eager for a sight of the ocean.When I could walk once more, though not without pain, I returned to Remandji's, packed up my few goods and journals,and set out on the way back. For the first time in my life Iwas home-sick—really and thoroughly home- sick.When I told Remandji that I must return, he called Minshoand said, " The spirit must go back. We are sorry; but as itis his will, we must submit. Wait, however, that we may gethim food, that he may not be hungry on the way." Thereupon the people brought me fowls, plantains, and manioc.464 FAREWELL TO REMANDJI. CHAP. XXVI.The kendo I was requested to keep, " that when you comeback you maybe our master."Remandji also gave me two beautiful grass caps done in finecrochet-work, and which have excited the admiration of manyladies in this country for the neatness of their work.I gave the old chief my knife and fork, and afterwards, at hisown special request, covered the walls of his hut inside withsome New York papers which I had received on my way to theAshira, and whose columns had helped to while away my inactivedays here in the far interior. He was very proud of this, andpromised to preserve them till the next white spirit came to seehim, to whom it will doubtless be a curious spectacle. He said,"When, in after years, I tell the people from far away that awhite spirit came to see me and was my friend, they will say,' You lie.' Then I will show them these things which you haveleft me. Then they will believe."I was presented with a large anvil of iron, used by the Apingiin their blacksmithing operations; but it was too heavy to carryoff, and moreover, as iron is the gold of these people, it wouldhave been cruel to rob them. They work iron very neatly, butnot to so great an extent as the Fan, who are the best blacksmithsI saw in Africa. They make knives similar to the Ashira's, andaxes such as are displayed in the engraving below, and ornax1Apingi Tools.-1. Axe; 2. Mpano.ment them very nicely. But their specialty is the weaving ofcloth.CHAP. XXVI. A FRIGHTFUL DISEASE. 465We set out finally on the 16th of January, being ferried acrossthe river in the little canoes. As we were travelling through thebush on our way to the Ashira plains, I suddenly started a flockof monkeys. One of my young men, Ishoungi by name, was. withme. When I had shot my monkey and returned from pickinghim up, I saw the strangest change that surely ever took placein a man. Ishoungi, who was as black as a crow when I left him,had, in less than a minute, become covered all over with blotches,which gave him a ghastly spotted appearance, frightful and sickening to the view. It was a complete and most singular metamorphosis. The swellings extended under my own observation,and in less than five minutes scarce a spot on his whole bodywas left in its pure black state. Even his face was covered. Hislips were disfigured, his nose put out of shape, his eyes closed.This singular disease is known to the Ashira by the name ofetita. The swellings are large, but of different sizes and shapes,and look much as though the subject had been badly scalded.The skin is raised, and a thin matter collects beneath it. Anintolerable itching pain follows, which makes the poor suffererscream with agony. I dropped my monkey and led poor Ishoungito a little brook not far off, where I sprinkled him with water,which seemed somewhat to ease his pain. Presently one of theAshira men came along, and, seeing his condition, took out someyellow bark of a tree, unknown to me, from a pouch he carried.This he made fine, then chewed it with water in his mouth.When he had chewed it a little he spat the juice on the other'sbody, and Ishoungi rubbed and spread it gently. Wherever ittouched, the swelling went down. In little more than twentyminutes-certainly in less than half an hour-the swellings weregone, leaving scarce any mark upon his body.This was the first severe case I had met with in Africa, thoughmy boatmen on the Rembo had sometimes to suffer from slightattacks. I will not attempt to account for this singular phenomenon farther than to say that my observation led me to chargeit to great overheating and sudden cooling of the blood. It isknown to the Camma and Bakalai; but they do not suffer fromit much. They, too, call it etita.It was the rainy season still, and the forest was in many placesmuddy. We passed the first night (16th-17th) at a Bakalaivillage, where I received a present of a gazelle. In the night the2 H466 A NIGHT IN THE DARK. CHAP. XXVI.roof of my hut was swept off by a tornado, and I stood in thestreet a couple of hours for fear of being buried in the ruins ofthe village.It rained in torrents the whole night and the greater part ofthe next day, and when we came to the banks of the Louvendjiwe found, instead of the pleasant and easily-fordable stream ithad been on our outward passage, a fierce torrent, utterly impassable. We had, therefore, to remain there all night, and itwas not till late next afternoon that we managed to cross. Theflies and bees were here so troublesome that I was fairly drivenfrom the camp into the woods. They were attracted in vastswarms by our ripe plantains.Then came once more the passage of the dreaded bridge ofthe Ovigui. The stream was very full, the current very rapid,and the passage uglier than before. In the middle of the frailbridge the water was up to our necks, and swept past us impetuously as we clung to the guards. Happily, though I lostmy footing once, being the shortest man of the party, I managedto get safely across. That night it came on to rain before wereached our camping-ground. The consequence was that wewere unable to light a fire-the first time I have ever knownthis occur on my travels. It was a stupid blunder, which causedus to spend the night in a most uncomfortable manner-I seated,gun in hand, on my chest, and the negroes firing guns andshouting all night to keep off the leopards, several of which weheard about us. It was the most uncomfortable night I everspent. My feet were by no means tough, and pained me; andit was not easy to sit still, awake, in the pouring rain, and awaitthe yell and spring of some leopard, who could probably see usquite well in the darkness.At last day dawned, and we pushed on. We reached theplains without farther mishap. My home-sickness—a strangelonging which I never experienced before-still made memiserable. I was impatient to push on, but was so weak, whatwith fever attacks, occasioned by hardships and by my sore feet,that I had perforce to lie still.On the 22nd I finally managed to get off. Olenda and hispeople gave me plenty of presents, arms, a loom, fetiches, anidol, and provisions to last me to Obindji's town. Makondai wasglad to return, and I longed constantly for the sea.CHAP. XXVI. ATTACKED BY ANTS. 467Many of the little valleys situated in the hollow of the hillswere now much overflowed. On our first day out I had the misfortune to step into a bashikouay army, and was, as usual on suchoccasions, badly bitten, as were several of my men. These weredifferent from the bashikouay met nearer the seashore. Theywere larger, stronger, slower in their movements, and had notthe very peculiar dashing mode of attack which characterizes thebashikouay figured and described before. Their bite was moresevere they literally took pieces of flesh out of my legs, andmade me bleed very freely; but their attack was much lessfierce. Nothing can stand the onset of the smaller bashikouayant, nor is it possible to drive them off except by killing them.These larger ants are not tree-climbers, the natives told me.On the 24th we at last reached the banks of the littleOfoubou again, and the next day we floated down to Obindji'stown, where we were welcomedwith great shouts of joy, gunfiring, music and dancing, andevery action which the Africanuses to express his delight. Thesound of the ibeka was the mostprominent; it is a curious littleinstrument with six wooden keys.Ibeka musical Instrument of the Bakala .As we crossed the range of hills which divide the Ashira plainsfrom the Bakalai country to the westward, I found, to my surprise, that on the western side of this watershed it was now thedry season. All the little brooks were dried up; the ground wascompletely dry; and when we reached the Ofoubou and Ovenga,these streams were quite low. This was the nkoumouna, theshort middle dry season, which had set in here a month before,while in the Apingi and Ashira region, and on the easternslope of these hills, the first part of the rainy season was in fullforce.I spent a night with Obindji, then took canoes and was pulleddown to Goumbi, where I found my old friend Quengueza absent,to my great disappointment. After two days' rest I passed downstream again, and on the 10th of February was hailed by myold keeper Rinkimongami, and by his chief Ranpano. Theyhad almost given up the hope of seeing me again, but had keptmy live-stock and goods safely. They were very proud when I2H 2468 SINGULAR COLONY OF BIRDS. CHAP. XXVI.expressed my pleasure, and the town had a general jollification,to which I contributed unlimited tobacco from the interior.Then for the seashore to look out for a ship. The feverbegan to creep on me. Quinine I had taken to the amount offourteen ounces, till now it had almost ceased to affect me,except when taking great quantities. Fowler's solution of arsenicseemed also powerless. I had grown to be an unhappy Mithridates -poison-proof. Daily I seemed to get weaker, and dailyI longed more to feel the fresh sea-breeze which should bear meto America.Four long months were yet to elapse, however, before at lastmy vessel came in sight. In this dull time of packing, writing,and illness, many weary hours were relieved by watching thesingular actions of a very curious bird, the Sycobius nigerrimus,which had, in immense numbers, colonized a little grove of treesnear my house during my last absence. The habits of theselittle twitterers are most remarkable, and I never wearied ofwatching their various and very skilful and intelligent manœuvresin nest-building and gathering food.There are two species, but both live in the same trees andindiscriminately among each other, though not, of course, in thesame nests. The male of one species is entirely black, and thefemale a dark gray, while in the other the male is yellow, withblack and yellow throat. The eggs of the first mentioned arebluish, with black spots, while those of the last are light pink,with dark spots.They are extremely sociable birds, and not only establishthemselves in vast colonies, but prefer always to live in theneighbourhood of a village, and, at any rate, not far from wherethe palm and the plantain abound. They seem fond of thesociety of man, something as our own swallows are.They are singularly industrious birds. Whenthey have settledupon a tree on which to plant a colony, they labour from daylighttill dark, day after day, with the utmost joy and fun and perseverance at their very singular pendent nests, which I will nowproceed to describe. The nest is in shape round, or nearly so,with a narrow passage for entrance and exit, leading down oneside and opening beneath. It is securely fastened to an outstretched twig, probably for safety from monkeys and serpents;and I have counted on one tree near my house over two thousandCHAP. XXVI. A VESSEL IN SIGHT. 469of such pendent little balls, each inhabited by a family of thebirds.The birds, when building, strip the tough outside fibre of thepalm or plantain-leaf, and split this into very narrow strips notmore than two or three lines wide, but the whole length of theleaf. Male and female both work at gathering this material:when a sufficient number of strips are brought to begin a nest,and the pendent twig is fixed upon, the birds begin to turn theseleaf-strips over the twig, and to interlace them below in a mannerwhich enables the finished nest to shed rain. The birds workwith the greatest assiduity with both beak and feet; and often Iwould see one little fellow one miuute holding by his feet andworking the fibres in with his bill, the next suspended by thebill and pushing all together with his feet, and then adroitlyslipping inside, and, by pushing and working with his body,giving the nest a round shape. The entrance is the last made,and doubtless instinct teaches them to turn its mouth down, toenable it, too, to shed rain.Sometimes trees on which these industrious little fellows buildare quite killed by the weight of so many nests, and by the spacethey occupy preventing the regular growth of the branches. Thenests are used not only to breed in, but also to live in, and eachpair breeds several times a year, raising two young at a brood.Of course, with such rapid increase they are always needing newnests, so that the building process is going on almost all thetime. It is remarkable that among so many nests, all lookingto my eyes exactly alike, each bird was always able to find hisBut I must own that sometimes I noticed a strong fellowtrying with might and main to oust one of his weaker brethrenfrom his home, though generally with little success. They havea foreknowledge of the rainy season evidently, for just beforethis sets in they are peculiarly active in building and repairing,and at such times the village near which they have settled isalive with their merry twittering and active bustle.own.In watching these little neighbours of mine I spent many aday which would have been unutterably weary but for them.At last, on the 1st of June, I was so happy as to spy a sail. Myheart beat anxiously lest she should pass. But, to my great joy,the little brig stood right in shore. By night I knew that myfriends in the Gaboon had sent to inquire for news of me. They470 RETURN HOME. CHAP. XXVI.had given me up for lost. The captain had orders to ascertainhow I came to my death. I was glad to be able to assure himthat I was not dead yet.And now came the weary work of taking in my cargo of beastsand other things-the tedious delays which yet kept me, poorfever-stricken wretch! to the shore. At last we were off, andwith a thankful heart I welcomed the cool breeze which bore meback to civilization, to friends, and to renewed health.And here I part from the reader, who, I trust, has not yawnedover my troubles, nor grown weary over the story of my adventures and explorations.Wicker-work Rattle to drive the Devil ontBayerische StaatsbibliothekMUNCHENAPPENDIX.(A.)THE FAUNA OF EQUATORIAL AFRICA.FOR the use of naturalists, I give here a list of the animals collected by meduring the explorations described in the body of the book. New species Ihave, for convenience of reference, put by themselves. For detailed description of the new animals the scientific reader is referred to the ' Proceedings ofthe Boston Society of Natural History ' for 1860.MAMMALIANS.SPECIES DISCOVERED BY F. B. DU CHAILLU.Troglodytes calvus,99 Koolo-kamba.Trogelaphus albo- virgatus.Potamocho*rus albifrons.Genetta Fieldiana.Anomalurus Beldeni.Cercopithecus nigripes.Otolicnus apicalis.Cynogale velox.Sciurus Nordhoffi.9922 99 (not described yet). 99T. Gorilla.T. Niger ( Chimpanzee) .Elephas Africanus.Hippopotamus.Bos brachicheros.Trogelaphus silvicultrix.(species not de- termined).Leopardus varius.Gazella ( four species, not determined).Crocodilus vulgaris.Canis aureus.Kinixys erosa.Python bivittatus.eborivorus.Wilsoni.subalbidus.KNOWN SPECIES .Genetta Aubryana.99 poensis.Hyæna striata.Hystrix cristata.Colobus Satanus.Presbytes albigena.Cercopithecus melanogenys.9922 determined).cephus.(species notMangabet à collier ( Cerco- cebus) .Cynocephalus Mormon.TURTLES.Sternothærus Derbianus.Sciurus rubripes.minutus.Manatus Oweni.Aspidonectes aspilus(turtle).[ Several species of mammalsnot yet described. ]Otolicnus Pelii.Sciurus (three species not determined) .Sorex odoratus.Vespertilio minutus.99 (two other spe- cies, not determined) .Anomalurus Fraseri.Lutra (species not deter- mined):Pangolin.Tryonix Aubryii.SERPENTS AND OTHER REPTILES .Thrasops flavigularis, or Bu- cephalus capensis.Chlorophis heterodermus.Toxicodryas Blandingii.Boædon quadrivirgatum.Echidna nasicornis.A species of naja.(snake).Dryophis Kirtlandi.Dipsas or Toxicodryas Blan- dingii.Leptophis smaragdinus.Dendrophis flavigularis.Sphenorhina elegans.Gerrhosaurus Bibronii.39Brachycranion corpulentum Euprepes striata.Coluber Philipsi.nigro lineatus.Blandingii.albilabris.Bufo maculatus.Dactylethra Mülleri.Hyla puntata.Rana Bibronii.albolabris (discovered by me. )Heteroglossa Africana.Chamaleo dilepsis.granulosus.172 APPENDIX.BIRDS.SPECIES DISCOVERED BY P. B. DU CHAILLU.(A.)Barbatula Du Chaillui."" fuliginosa.Diceum Rushiæ.Egithalus flavifrons.Camaroptera tincta.Silvia Prasina.Butalis infuscatus.Muscicapa epulata (Butalis epulatus).Erythrocercus M'Callii.Drymoica Bairdii.Criniger xanthogaster.Pyrrhurus leucopleurus.Melignothes conirostris.exilis.Alethe castanea.Tricophorus calurus.leucurus.Tricophorus notatus (Xeno- cichla).Phasidus niger.Numida plumifera.Tockus camurus.Francolinus squamatus.Andropadus virens.Butalis comitatus.Sycobius Rachelliæ.33 scutatus.Meropiscus Mülleri.Atticora nitens.Heterodes insignis .Ispidina Lecontii.Eopsaltria cinerea, or Hy- podes cinerea.Meropogon Breweri.Euprinodes schistaceus.Camaroptera caniceps.Sylvietta virens.Parmoptila Woodhousei.Macrosphenus flavicans.Geocichla compsonota.Tricophorus chloronotus.tricolor (Xenocichla) .Andropadus curvirostris.Muscipeta speciosa.du Chaillui.Trochocercus nitens.Parisoma melanurum.99 olivescens.Turdirostris fulvescens.Hyphantornis cinctus.Columba iriditorques.unicincta.SPECIES ALREADY DESCRIBED.Gypohierax Angolensis.Tephrodornis ocreatus.Polyboroides radiatus.typicus.Accipiter Tousseneli .Hartlaubii.Haliætus vocifer.99 blagrus.Spizatus coronatus."9 occipitalis.Spilornis bacha.Miscratur macrourus.Aviceda cuculoides.Scotopelia Pelii.Chaunonotus Sabinei.Ixos Ashanteus.Ixonotus guttatus.Nectarinia superba.Johannæ.fuliginosa.nectarina.angolensis.chloropygia.subcollaris.tephrolama.Anthreptes aurantia.Frazeri.Nectarinia cyanolæma.Reichenbachii.cuprea.obscura.cyanocephala.Strangerii.verticallis.Merops bicolor.Breweri .Merops Bullockioides.albicollis.Meropiscus gularis.variegatus.Alcedo leucogastra.Halcyon badia.Senegalensis.dryas.Alcedo quadribrachys.Corythornis cæruleocephala.Ceryle rudis.Motacilla Capensis.Telophonus leucorhynchus.Laniarus cruentis.Pelii.chloris.Dryoscopus major Campephaga nigra.Lobotos Temminckii.Ceblepyris or graucalus azurea.Dicrurus caracinus.atripennis.Sigmodus rufiventris.Anthus Gouldii.Corvus curvirostris.Zanclostomus flavirostris.Chaunonotus Sabinei.Cossypha poensis.verticalis.Pratincola salax.Cicropus Gordoni.Musicapa grisola.Cypselus ambrosiacus.Atticora Melbina.Chætura Sabinei.Hirundo cahirica.nigrita.Cecropis Gordoni (Hirundo) .Pyrenestes coccineus.Platystira melanoptera (muscicapa).Platystira leucopygialis.Zanclostomus æreus.Lanius Smithii.Tricophorus simplex.palescens."9 fossi.Macronix flaviventris.Andropadus latirostris.gracilirostris.Sycobius nitens.cristatus.nigerrimus.malimbus.scutatus.Oriolus nigripennis.dius).Baruffi (intermeCaprimulgus binotatus.Camaroptera superciliaris.badiceps.Euprinodes rufogularis.olivaceus.Artomigias fuliginosa.Dryosocopus affinis.Lamprocolius splendidis.purpureiceps.Muscipeta flaviventris.Smithii.melanogastra.melampyra.(A.)Bias musicus.Campephaga nigra.Estrelda rubriventris.""atricapilla.melpoda.rubriventris.Passer Swainsonii.APPENDIX.Fringillaria tahapisi.Foudia erythrops.Hyphantornis flavigula.of flavigula) .Grayi (femaleHyphantornis textor.Hyphanturgus personatus.Coliostruthus macrourus.(species not de- Centropus monachus.Corythaix meriani,termined) .Turacus giganteus.Tockus fasciatus.Turtur erythrophrys.Buceros albocristatus.atratus.cylindricus.fistulator.Treron calva.ووpoensis.Apaloderma narina.nudirostris.lumba).Peristera puella.tympanistria.Dendrobates Caroli.Pogonias hirsutus.Oxylophus Jacobinus.Francolinus Lathami.Bubo leucostictus.Syrnium Woodfordii.Eurystomus afer.99 gularis.Drymoica ruficeps.99navia .fortirostris.lateralis.Peristera chalcospilos (Co- Hylia prasina (Styphrornis99afra.Malherbi.Squatarola helvetica.Charadrius zonatus.Hiaticula pecuaria.Harpiprion olivaceus.Totanus hypoleucus.Calidris arenaria.Sterna Senegalensis.Podica Senegalensis.Numenius phæopus.Strepsilas interpras.Fraseria ocreata.cinerascens.Platystira melanoptera.leucopygialis.Pratincola salax.Macronix flaviventris.Stiphornis erythrothorax.Sylvietta microura.Cisticola cursitans.Spermestes cucullata.poensis.Ortygospiza atricollis.superciliaris).Phyllopneuste umbrovirens.Cisticola cursitans.Turdus Pelios.Xenocichla syndactila.Pyrrhurus pallescens.Hyliota violacea.Dryoscopus affinis .99 major (Telopho- nus major).Nigrita canicapila.99 luteifrons.fusconota bicolor.Vidua principalis.Spermospiza guttata.Psittacus pachyrhynchus.Barbatula subsulfurea.99 scolopacea (Xylo- bucco).Gymnobucco calvus.Trachyphonus purpuratus.Dendropicus Gabonensis.nigriguttatus.Dendromus Caroli.brachyrhynchus.99 nivosus.Dendromus Africanus.473(several species,not yet determined) .Indicator maculatus.Centropus Francisci..monachus י,Cuculus Gabonensis.Chrysococcyx smaragdineus.Synoicus Adansonii.Edicnemus Senegalensis.Glareola cinerea.Lobivanellus albiceps.Ægialites marginatus.pecuarius.Ardea goliath.Egretta flavirostris.bulbucus.Butorides atricapilla.Ciconia leucocephala.Mycteria Senegalensis.Leptotilos crumenifera.Scopus umbretta.Tantalus ibis.Geronticus hagedash.99 olivaceus.Ibis religiosa.Numenius phaophus.Actitis hypoleucus.Parra Africana.Rallus oculeus.Himantornis hæmatopus.Phorphyrio Alleni.Limnocorax flavirostris.Phoenicopterus erythræus.Nettapus Madagascariensis.Dendrocygna viduata.Querquedula Hartlaubii(Annas cyanoptera).Podica Senegalensis.Sterna Caspia.99""cantiaca.Senegalensis.Rhynchops orientalis.Plotus Levaillantii.Sula Capensis.Carbo Africanus.Nycticorax Europæus.[ Some species not yet de- scribed. ]474 APPENDIX. (B.)(B.)THE LANGUAGES OF EQUATORIAL AFRICA.As we acquire greater knowledge of the languages and dialects of the nations.and tribes of Central Africa, the conviction gains ground among philologiststhat the people of this great continent belong to two distinct families. Theline of separation I believe to be found one or two degrees north of the equator.To the south of this line all the people now known speak in dialects which,though sufficiently distinct, belong evidently to one common family, having acommon origin. This is true of all, so far as known, from the northern line Ihave denoted down to the Cape of Good Hope, except the Hottentots, theNamaquas, and a few other insignificant tribes near the last-mentioned place,who are not supposed to belong to either branch of the African family.This class of languages and dialects may be distinguished by the title alliterative. The changes which the words undergo in their declensions and conjugations always affect both the initial and final syllables, and whole sentencesoccur having a complete alliteration throughout.The tribes of the northern half of the continent, so far as their languages areknown to me by study or by personal observation ( the latter confined to thewestern coast, through Gambia and Senegambia to the borders of the Desert),use dialects less regular in their structure, less melodious in sound, and by farmore difficult for the tongue and ear of the white man.Within the region which I explored the language of the Mpongwe is themost widely spread. It is used, with slight variations and modifications, byno less than seven of the most considerable tribes, the Mpongwe, Commi(Camma), Oroungou, Ogobay, Rembo, Ngaloi, Ayomba, and Anenga. Someother dialects, also, are evidently derived from this, while another large classhas marks of decided kinship to the Bakalai language. This last is spoken,either purely or in dialects varying but slightly, by the Bakalai, Mbenga,Kombe, Bapoukou, Balengue, Mbousha, Mbondemo, Mbisho, Mbiki, Shekiani,Apingi, Evili, and probably many more tribes of the interior.The language of the cannibal tribe, the Fans, stands alone, being evidentlynot related to any of the others. It is rude, and very guttural, and bearssome likeness to that spoken in the interior of Cape Palmas and on the Croocoast.The Mpongwe and Bakalai, and their kindred dialects, are to a remarkabledegree regular and systematic in their structure. I found it very extraordinarythat languages used only by savages, and having no written standard, should retain their precision and system as these have done. Scarce any languagesknown are so systematic as these . They are rich in words expressive of theideas of these barbarous people, and they are capable of very great expansion for new wants. From radicals already in use new words can be regularlyderived when needed, and are at once understood.The Bakalai and its branches have no letter r. The Mpongwe and theAshira, on the contrary, abound in this letter, which is rolled or accented verystrongly. The Mpongwe strikes me as one of the finest of all the knownlanguages of Africa. It is remarkable that all the tribes which use it are much(B.)APPENDIX. 475less warlike than those which use the Bakalai, many of which are fierce and troublesome.The tribes inhabiting the west coast south of Cape St. Catherine speakdialects some of which show more affinity with the language of the Mpongwe,others with that of the Bakalai; but all show, in the formation of many oftheir words, a third element, proving that some of these words have been derivedfrom another language with which the two former have not been acquainted.The Mpongwe language is to a very great extent polysyllabic. There arescarce a score of monosyllabic nouns in the whole language, and not more thanthree or four monosyllabic verbs. It abounds in contractions and compoundedwords, in which, however, the parts are preserved sufficiently well to be very easily distinguished. There are but few words difficult of utterance toAmericans or Europeans, and the pronunciation is very distinct, each syllablebeing fully sounded, making it easy of acquisition to strangers. Almost allthe words terminate in a vowel, which is fully sounded, and a great part of thenouns and verbs also begin with a vowel. The genders of nouns are not distinguished otherwise than by prefixing the term man or woman.For instance,wanna means child; wanto- wanna is girl; and olomè- wanna is boy. Thereare several ways of forming the plural. Nouns which begin with a consonantare made plural by prefixing i to the singular forms; thus, nago, house; inago,houses. Nouns beginning with o form their plurals by changing o into i;thus, omemba, snake; imemba, snakes. Nouns beginning with e form theirplurals by dropping the e; thus, egara, chest; gara, chests. Nouns beginningwith i form their plurals by changing i to a; thus, idambè, a sheep; adambè,sheep. All the changes in the Mpongwe nouns, except such as result fromcontractions, are on the first syllable. The noun of agency is in nearly allcases formed by prefixing the letter o to the verb; thus, noka is to lie , and onoka is a liar.Personal pronouns abound in the Mpongwe, and also in the Bakalai andother dialects of this region. Thus, in Mpongwe, mie is I and me; you, awè;yé, he; ayé, she or it; azwé, us; anuwe, ye; nuwe, you; wao, they; wa,them.The adjectives have many changes besides their degrees of comparison.They do not, however, possess any inflections to indicate gender or case. Inthe following examples we find no less than seven forms of the adjective mpolo,which means large::-Nyaré mpolo, a large cow.Inyaré impolo, large cows.Egara evolu, a large chest.Gara volu, large chests.Idambe ivolu, a large sheep.Adambe ampolo, large sheep.Omemba ompolo, a large snake.Imemba impolo, large snakes.These and like changes are used with the utmost precision, arbitrary as they are, and though they have of course no grammatical rules nor any writtenstandard.We come now to speak of the verb, which has, in all the languages of thesouthern half of Africa, the most peculiar forms. The Mpongwe verb has fourmoods, the indicative, imperative, conditional, and subjunctive. The indicativemood is formed with the aid of auxiliary particles . The imperative is derivedfrom the present of the indicative by the change of its initial consonant into its476 APPENDIX. (B.)reciprocal consonant; thus, tonda, to love, ronda, love thou; denda, to do,lenda, do thou.The conditional mood has a form of its own, but the conjunctive particlesare used as auxiliaries at the same time, and different conjunctive particles areused with different tenses. The subjunctive has only one form, and is used asthe second verb in a sentence where there are two verbs.The tenses in the Mpongwe are the present, past, perfect past, and future.The perfect past tense, which represents the completeness of an action, isformed from the present tense by prefixing a and by changing the final into i;thus, tonda, to love, atondi, loved or did love.The past is derived from the imperative by prefixing a and by changing afinal into i; thus, ronda, love thou, arondi, to have loved.The future tense is formed by the aid of the auxiliary participle be; as, mibe tonda, I am going to love. But this combination of words, if the nominative follows, expresses past time.In the future tense the nominative goes before the verb in the order of construction. When an action is immediately to take place, the present tense isused as a future; as mi bia, I am coming immediately; while mi be bia meansI am coming after a while, or at some indefinite time.The passive is formed from the active simply by changing a final into o:thus, mi tonda, I love; mi tondo, I am loved. In the historical and perfecttense, which terminates in i, o is simply adjoined: thus, arondi, have loved;arondio, to have been loved.There is also in every Mpongwe verb a negative for every affirmative form,and the negative is distinguished from the affirmative by an accent or dwellingon the first or principal vowel of the verb, which I will characterize in writingby the use of an italic letter. The negative form belongs to the passive aswell as to the active voice, and this slight difference of intonation or accentuation is one of the most difficult for a foreigner to catch:-Mi tonda, I love.Mi tonda, I do not love.-Mi tondo, I am loved.Mi tondo, I am not loved.All the verbs in the Mpongwe language, with the exception of about fifteenor twenty, may be regarded as regular verbs, inasmuch as they are governedby the same fixed principle. The verbs of two or more syllables have alwaysthe final a; and the incipient consonants of these verbs are either b, d, f, j, k,p, s, t, or sh. Each of these has a reciprocal consonant. Such verbs as commence with m or n, which have no reciprocal consonants, retain these twoletters throughout all their inflections, but in other respects are perfectlyregular. The invariable reciprocal letter of b is v or w. So the imperative isderived from the present of the indicative in all the verbs which commencewith b, by changing b into w or v: thus, Mi bonga, I take; imp. , wonga, take.In the same manner, and with invariable uniformity, d is changed into l, ƒinto v, or fun into vw, j into y, k into g, p into v , s into 2, sh into zy, and tinto r. Thus,Mi bonga, I take;Wonga, take.Mi kamba, I speak;Gamba, speak.Every regular verb in the language may be said to possess five conjugationsand as many as six compound conjugations. Thus, from kamba, to speak, or(B.) APPENDIX. 477I speak, the causation is formed by changing a into iza: kambiza, to cause tospeak. The form which implies habitual action is derived from the radical byprefixing ga: thus, kamba, to speak; kambaga, to speak habitually . Therelative conjugation, which implies performing an action for or to some one, isderived from the radical by suffixing na: thus, from kamba, to speak, comeskambana or kambina, to speak to or with some one. The indefinite is derivedfrom the radical by suffixing the imperative to the present of the indicative:thus, from kamba comes kambagamba, to speak at random.In the Mbenga language, the radical kalaga, speak, is changed as follows:kalakate, to continue speaking; kalakia, to speak to or speak for; kalakide,to cause to speak; kalanakiani, to speak for one another; kalaka bekatikali,to speak at random; takala, to speak first (in a trial); kalaka bo kalaka,speak and do nothing else.The radical form of the verb expresses the simple idea without any accessoryor contingent meaning. The second expresses continuance of the action, andin many verbs intensity of the simple idea: thus, kalakate mbi yokakate, speak on; I will hear.These remarks and exemplifications will give some idea of the beauty andphilosophical structure of the languages of this region . There is in these languages a mine which will richly repay working. They possess an extensiveunwritten literature, consisting of proverbs, parables, allegories, mystic interpretations, fables, and fantastic and fabulous stories, which are handed downfrom generation to generation . Many of these fables I have listened to in theevening, by the light of my camp-fire, with unbounded delight, wondering atthe imagination of the barbarous African.I regretted only that want of time and my other pursuits prevented me frominvestigating and writing down many of their wonderful stories and fables.I close with a table of numerals, which, as being the easiest to collect forcomparison, must serve as a beginning for the philologist who desires to studythe languages of this region . All that are here given were collected by myself.All but two or three I obtained when among the tribes to whom each list iscredited. The others I gained by a visit to a French emigrant ship sailingfrom Cape Lopez with a cargo of negroes . To show what great facilities thestudent can have, even on the coast, for studying the languages of the far interior tribes, I may mention that on board this very ship I found men from noless than thirty-eight different tribes!SENEGAMBIA TRIBES.Kingdom of Sin. Yolof. Kingdom of Baol. Kosso.1 Lèn. Bien or Ben (quick) . Kiliné.2 Bétique. Niar. Foulo or foula.3 Bétafoulàque. Nièp (quick). Sabo or saba.Tá, ta .Félè.Tchàoua.4 Béta founaque. Niélet. Nani. Nani.5 Béta foutadaque. Diéroum. Loulou. Dolou.6 Béta fatique.7 Bétasou.Diéroum ben. Ourò. Whita.Diéroum niet. Ourò olo. Ouà félâ.8 Bétafou.9 Bétafousé.10 Karbaki. Fouque.Diéroum niep. Li.Diéroum nielet. Konontai.Ten.Oiyapa.Tàkoù.Fo.478 INDEX.TRIBES OF THE PALM COAST.Baoolobo. Vesey.Bonzé, Gola.1 Nô. Dondo. Tan. Ngoumou.2 Hàn. Téla. Vélè. Ntié.3 Tàn. Saquoy.Daba. Ntaï.4 Hain. Nani. Nani. Tina.5 Hòò. Soulou. Lōlou. Nonon.6 Nodo. Soudondo. Maïda. Diegoum.7 Diétan. Soufèla. Maïfile. Diéntié.8 Diyien. Sousaquoy. Maïshaba. Dietai.9 Shondo. Sounani. Mainan . Dectina.10 Ipou. Tan. Вой. E'sia.Onokò or Banò.Balengué, called also Molengué and Ayengué.TRIBES IN THE BIGHT OF BENIN.Camerun or Dwala. Ibouai.1 Guévoho. Мросо. E'ouè. Evoko.2 Ibaré. Ibali. Béba. Biba.3 Raro. Ilalo. Bélalo. Belalo.4 Inaï. Inaï. Benéi. Binaï.5 Itano. Itani. Betano. Betani.6 Itano na guévoho.Otoba. Motoba. Otoba.7 Itano na ibaré. Embouèdi. Samba. Mbouedi.8 Itano na raro. Lombi. Lùmbè. Louambi.9 Itano na inai. Diboua. Iboua. Iboua.10 Ndioum or naï- Dioum. Dôm. Ndioum.hinaï.Mpongwe, spoken by Mbousha.TRIBES OF THE GABOON, MUNI, AND MOONDAH RIVERS.eight tribes before Shekiani, spoken also by the Mbondemo, Itaimon, Mbenga.mentioned, Mbiki, and Mbisho.1 Mori. Ivoco. Wò tè. Мросо.2 Bani. Béba. Iba. Ibali.3 Ncharo. Bélalo. Bitashí. Ilala.4 Nai. Benaï. Inéi. Inaï.5 Tani. Betano. Itani. Itano.6 Roùa. Ivoco béba. Itani mé wotè. Otoba.7 Roaguenon. Ivoco bélalo. Itani né iba. Embouaidi.8 Ananai.9 Inongoum.Ivoco benai.Ivoco betano.10 Igoum.Dioum.Itani né itachi,Itani inéi.Dioum.Loguambi.Ibouhi.Dioum.TRIBES ON OR NEAR THE OGOBAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES.Alombo. Ngobé or Mgobé (Camma). Ashira. Bakalai.1 Imoshi. Moshi.2 Ibaï. Baï.Moshi.Béi.Iéwotau.Béba.3 Iraro. Raro. Iréro. Bilali.4 Ina. Ina. Irano or iina. Benaï.5 Irano. Dourano. Samano. Bitani.(B.)(B.)APPENDIX. 479Alombo.6 Isamoum.7 Disambouai.TRIBES ON OR NEAR THE OGOBAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES-continued.Ngobé or Mgobé (Camma) . Ashira.Disambouai.Bakalai.Inégué, írero or Na iéwotau.inana.Kambo moshi. Bitani-nabiba.8 Denana. Dinanouai. Kambo béi.9 Ifou.10 Dégoumé.Ipoi.Igoum. Igoum.Bitani nabilali.Bitani na benai.Dioum.Mpovi. Njavi Apingi. Aviia. Ashango.1 Mouéta. Mòn. Мросо. Moliai. Moshi.2 Bevali. Bioli. Mbani. Banié. Bibéi.3 Betata. Betato. Tcharo. Nchado. Biraro.4 Benaï. Béna. Inaï. Naio. Bina.5 Betani. Betani. Itani. Ntano. Shamanò.6 Betani mouéta. Samouna. Moroba. Enapo. Nchambo.7 Betani bevali.8 Betani betata.9 Betani benai.10 Nchinia.Ashaki.Ouà.Igoume.Moshebo.Nchamou. Pombo.Mponbon.Meouandji. Madouma. Moshe-ho.1 Mori. Mò. Mò. Мросо.Poco.2 Bani. Yolè. Biolè. Niolè. Yolè.3 Shata, Moshato. Tato. Tato. Nchalo.4 Naï. Minaï. Nà. Na. Benaï.5 Itani. Tani. Tani. Tani.6 Motoba.10 Dioum. Dioum.Fan Tribe (Cannibals).1 Fo.2 Béi.3 Là.Slave from River Congo.Boisse.Guali.Tato.4 Né.5 Tani.6 Shémé.7 Zangoua.Minai.Tano.Samoum.Sabouani.8 Moûm or Ouam. Nana.9 Iboum or Ibou. Voua.10 Woôoō or Aboum. Koumi.LONDON: PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET,AND CHARING CROSS.

NGITUDE LASby JohnMAW. West, litho

ALBEMARLE STREET,May, 1861.MR. MURRAY'SLIST OF NEW WORKS.INDEX TO AUTHORS' NAMES.PAGE AUSTIN, JOHNBATEMAN, REV. JOSIAH BELL, SIR CHARLES BLUNT, PROFESSOR…………….. CARNARVON, LORD.. CHRISTIE, W. D.COLCHESTER, LORD COLERIDGE, SIR JOHN COOK, REV. F. C…………….CORK, BISHOP OF CORNWALLIS, Lɔrd5....... 10 LONDON, BISHOP OF MACAULAY, LORD ...... ............ 15 MAINE, H. SUMNER 4 MANSEL, PROFESSOR 11 MARRYAT, HORACE 21 MOTLEY, J. LOтHrop..PAGE .......... 23813653 MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS ......... 23, 25, 27 .... 14 NELSON, ROBERT 15 19 OWEN, PROFESSOR 26 19 OXFORD, BISHOP OF 211 PERCY, DR. 20DARWIN, CHARLES 14 POPE, ALEXANDER... 22DELEPIERRE, OCTAVE 13 RAWLINSON, REV. GEORGE DIXON, HEPWORTH ... 12, 23, 26 .......DOUGLAS, GEN. SIR HOWARD 21 DU CHAILLU, M. 18 DYER, THOS. H. 22REYNOLDS, SIR JOSHUA........ ROBERTSON, REV. CANON RUSSELL, DR. RUTHERFURD SCHEFFER, ARY2115... 18........... 11EASTLAKE, SIR CHARLES 16 SCOTT, REV. DR. 16ELLICOTT, PROFESSOR 19 SECRETAN, REV. C. F. 15ELWIN, REV. WHITWELL 22 SENIOR, NASSAU WILLIAM ......... 19FARRAR, REV. F. W. EXETER, BISHOP OFFERGUSSON, JAMES FISHLAKE, REV. J. R. FORBES, CAPTAIN FORSTER, JOHN GOUGER, HENRYSHAFTESBURY, LORD CHANCELLOR ... 21.......... 12 SHAW, THOMAS B. ............... 237 SMILES, SAMUEL 10 12 SMITH, THOS. ASSHETON 13.4, 7 SMITH, DR. Wм....... 6, 9, 14, 24, 28 ......... 8, 21 STANHOPE, EARL .. 29 STANLEY, PROFESSOR………………………………. 3GROTE, GEORGE 10 SWIFT, DEAN.. ... 21GROTE, MRS. 11 TAYLOR, TOM 21HEAD, SIR F. B. 12 THOMSON, REV. WM. ..7, 19, 22HESSEY, REV. DR. 6 TRISTRAM, REV. H. B. 5HOPE, A. J. BERESFORD 19 TYNDALL, PROFESSOR 16................ KING, REV. C. W. 10 WAAGEN, DR. 11KINGLAKE, ALEXANDER W. , M.P. 20 WELLINGTON, DUKE OF ………………………………. 7LANE, EDWARD WM. 23 WILMOT, SIR FARDLEY. 13LEONARDS, LORD ST. 2 WILSON, BISHOP Daniel 10LESLIE, CHARLES Robert .. 13 WILSON, GENERAL SIR ROBERT …….... 4LINDSAY, LORD ........ 20 WROTTESLEY, LORD 15ANDTHE NEW BIOGRAPHIA BRITANNICA ...... 28ALBEMARLE STREET,May, 1861.NEW WORKS NOW READY.LIFEEARL STANHOPE.OF THE HON. WILLIAM PITT,with Extracts from MS. Papers. By EARL STANHOPE, Author of the " History of England from the Peace of Utrecht. " Portrait. Vols. 1 and 2. Post 8vo. 21s." The history of Pitt's career as a statesman implies, of course, a complete surveyof the political history of England for a certain period, and such a survey we have in Earl Stanhope's Life of Pitt. When the noble writer's path lies over debateableground, he is always liberal in interpretation and entirely temperate in argument.He admits no fault in his hero, if it be not his complete neglect of men of letters,and for that he can find partial excuse. But everywhere his admiration is sogenial, and so much of it is clearly justified , that the work, when complete, will be the worthiest monument yet raised to the great statesman's memory. "Examiner.""-THE BISHOP OF LONDON.THE DANGERS AND SAFEGUARDS OF MODERN THEOLOGY, containing " Suggestions offered to the TheologicalStudent under present Difficulties ." By ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL TAIT, D.D.,LORD BISHOP OF LONDON. 8vo. 98." Other books must be written to lay bare the metaphysical assumptions on which the common reasoning of the Essayists and Reviewers rests, and bring them to the test. Other hands must strengthen and, perhaps, renew the external defences of Christianity; but in this volume a timely word has been spoken to minds still in a state to listen to calm and faithful counsel. This was the verykind of work most in danger of being neglected in the excitement of protests,addresses, and committees of Convocation, and it is to the honour of Dr. Tait that he has been among the first to perform it, and to perform it so well. " -Daily News.THE BISHOP OF OXFORD.THE REVELATION OF GOD AND THEPROBATION OF MAN. Two Sermons Preached at St. Mary's, Oxford. BySAMUEL WILBERFORCE, D.D., LORD BISHOP OF OXFORD. 8vo . 1s. 6d.CHURCH RATES.THE'HE ONLY COMPROMISE POSSIBLE ONCHURCH RATES. By A FORMER MEMBER OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS. 8vo. 6d.LORD ST. LEONARDS.SPEECHES IN THE HOUSE OF LORDS.THE NEW LAW COURTS AND THE FUNDS OF THE SUITORS OF THE COURT OF CHANCERY. 8vo. 1s. BARONIES BY TENURE AND THECLAIM OF THE BARONY OF BERKELEY. 8vo. 18.MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 3ATHE BISHOP OF EXETER.CORRESPONDENCE WITH THELATE LORD MACAULAY in 1849, on Certain Statements respecting the CHURCH OF ENGLAND in his History of England. 2nd Edition. 8vo. 2s. 6d." Macaulay's picture of the great Protestant Archbishop is well known. In his' Essays ' and in his History he has painted the figure of a loose, worldly, and uncourageous priest, more zealous for his order than for the truth, a persecutor in power, a whining sycophant in adversity. Cranmer's conduct cannot be wholly defended, nor does the Bishop seek to excuse it in every part. But he produces plenty of evidence to show that Macaulay was mistaken as to many of his facts,and unjust in most of his inferences. But the Bishop's gage of battle is not the character of Cranmer, singularly important to the Church of England as that character must ever be it is the whole scheme of Macaulay's presentation of theChurch, in its early, organising days, to which he objects. "-Athenæum.PROFESSOR STANLEY.LECTURES ON THE HISTORY OF THE EASTERN CHURCH; with an Introduction on the Study of Ecclesiastical History. By REV. A. P. STANLEY, D.D. , Regius Professor of Ecclesiastical History, and Canon of Christ Church, Oxford . With Plans. 8vo. 16s." The study of ecclesiastical history cannot be said to be popular in England,but it is difficult to say how far this may be attributed to the narrow limits within which it has usually been confined. In Mr. Stanley's hands it receives alarger and more liberal treatment. Protesting at the outset against restricting the word ' ecclesiastical ' to the mere ' accidental, outward, ceremonial machi- nery ' of the Christian Church, which includes in ecclesiastical history the lifeof the most insignificant Bishop, or the most wicked of Popes, not the life of the wisest of philosophers, or the most Christian of Kings, ' he at once puts inpractice his wider view by beginning his own ecclesiastical history with Abraham coinciding therein, though from a very different point of view, with some remark- able articles on Semitic Monotheism, which appeared some months ago in this journal. His sketch of the Eastern Church comprises a chapter on the life of Constantine, one on Mahomedanism, and one on Peter the Great. Those whoare acquainted with Mr. Stanley's other writings will not need to be told that these subjects are not only illustrated with learning and ability, but are treated in a spirit of genuine liberality, which is not always to be found among professed liberals, whether in politics or in theology ."—Times.THE COLCHESTER PAPERS.THEDIARYAND CORRESPONDENCEOF CHARLES ABBOT, FIRST LORD COLCHESTER, Speaker of the House ofCommons, 1802-1817. Edited by HIS SON. With Portrait. 3 Vols. , 8vo. 42s." Diaries of the reign of George III. have multiplied upon the world of late years, and the value of them has rather diminished in consequence of the abundance of the supply. But a Speaker has peculiar facilities for observing and recording the secret history of contemporary events, and therefore a Speaker's diary has aspecial value. He is in the political struggle without being of it. He is the umpire before whom all political wrestling- matches must take place, and is bound by the duties of his office, both to a close attention and an absolute neutrality.This was eminently the case with Speaker Abbot. "-Saturday Review....4 MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS.GENERAL SIR ROBERT WILSON'SPRIVATE DIARY OF TRAVELS, PER- SONAL ADVENTURES, AND PUBLIC EVENTS, during Missions and Employ- ments with the European Armies, from the Invasion of Russia to the Capture of Paris, 1812-14. Edited by the Rev. HERBERT RANDOLPH, M.A. With Map.2 Vols. 8vo. 26s."We noticed some time back Sir Robert Wilson's interesting and importantnarrative of the great Moscow campaign. These volumes consist chiefly of the accounts sent home by him to his friends, in the shape of a journal of events, kept from day to day; and they carry us through the great struggles of 1813 and 1814, to the capture of Paris. Sir R. Wilson accompanied the Russian army as English commissioner, and his private remarks and opinions as a military critic are very interesting. He had several qualifications unusual in most of the observers of the war. He was an Englishman, with an Englishman's common sense, with an Englishman's love of liberty and hatred of oppression, with an Englishman's caution and fear of being taken in by appearances, and with an Englishman's well- founded reprobation of the immoral and selfish policy of Napoleon . But he had much wider views than most Englishmen had in the struggle. He had an honest and genuine appreciation of Napoleon's military and political genius. He did not think that to depreciate that, was a manly or a wise corollary to a hearty detestation of his ambition. The book abounds with interesting sketches and memoranda of the great actors and great scenes of the time. Sir R. Wilson wasa keen observer, and besides being a thorough soldier, he was a scholar, with ascholar's memory and interests. "-Guardian.CAPTAIN FORBES, R.N.ICELAND, ITS VOLCANOES, GEYSERS,AND GLACIERS. By COMMANDER C. S. FORBES, R. N. With Map and Illustrations. Post 8vo. 148."Captain Forbes has thrown a new light around the northern island, and has found materials there for a most spirited and entertaining book of travel. Aportion of this range of ice mountains has never, Captain Forbes avers, been trodden by the foot of man. Here is a fine field for our Alpine climbers; and they will find themselves conducted through a country of surpassing grandeur as regards its natural features. " -John Bull.PROFESSOR BLUNT.LITERARY ESSAYS. By Rev. J. J. BLUNT,B.D. , Late Margaret Professor of Divinity at Cambridge. 8vo. 12s.THE CHURCH IN INDIA.MILTON.REFORMATION IN ITALY.PALEY.DR. PARR.BISHOP BUTLER.TOWNSON'S DISCOURSES.CRANMER.ROBERT HALL.ADAM CLARKE.CHURCH RATES.VILLAGE PREACHING.VILLAGE SCHOOLS." The many Churchmen who revere Professor Blunt's memory as in no smalldegree their father in the faith, will welcome this volume from an honoured andindustrious labourer in the vineyard of sacred literature. "-Guardian.MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS.MR. MOTLEY.UNITED HISTORY OF THE5NETHERLANDS: from the Death of William the Silent to the Synod of Dort; including the Struggle of the English and Dutch against Spain; and the Origin and Destruc- tion of the Spanish Armada. By JOHN LOTHROP MOTLEY, D.C.L. , Author of " The Rise of the Dutch Republic. " 4th Thousand. With Portraits and Plan.2 Vols. 8vo. 30s." Mr. Motley combines as an historian two qualifications seldom found united— to great capacity for historical research he adds much power of pictorial representation. In his pages we find characters and scenes minutely set forth in elaborate and characteristic detail, which is relieved and heightened in effect by the artistic breadth of light and shade thrown across the broader prospects of history. Fertileas the present age has been in historical works of the highest merit, none of them can be ranked above these volumes in the grand qualities of interest , accuracy,and truth. "-Edinburgh Review.REV. H. B. TRISTRAM.THE GREAT SAHARA.WANDERINGS SOUTHOF THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. By Rev. H. B. TRISTRAM, M. A. , F. L.S. , Master of Greatham Hospital. With Maps and Illustrations . Post 8vo. 158." We have here a genuine book of travels, in which the author takes us with him by force of a simple, yet graphic, narrative, and sets us face to face with scenes and people full of a rare novelty and interest. We use the word ' novelty 'designedly, for this is the first account which has yet appeared in the English language of those remarkable tribes whose home is in the far interior of the Algerian Sahara. Mr. Tristram is a traveller of great experience and a thorough naturalist, and his book is sure to be enjoyed by the general reader no less thanby the scientific inquirer, for its clear and fascinating narrative. ” —English Churchman.MR. AUSTIN.'HE PROVINCE THE OF JURISPRUDENCEDETERMINED. Being the First Part of a Series of Lectures on Jurisprudence,or The Philosophy of Positive Law. Second Edition. By the late JOHN AUSTIN,Barrister- at-Law. 8vo, 158."To all who love precision of reasoning and soundness of thought upon some of the most momentous subjects that can engage any man's attention, the republi- cation of this volume will be a welcome boon. It was the work of a man who, ifhis share of the coarser qualities which promote success in life had borne any pro- portion to his deeper intellectual gifts, might have achieved the highest distinction either in his profession or in the world at large; but whose bodily and mental health were alike unfitted for the rough business of making his way in life, and for placing his valuable powers in the light necessary to do them justice. Many men persuade themselves-and some are not wrong-that their career has been similarly marred, but few of these leave behind them so substantial a proof that the estimate formed of them by intimate friends is not a mistaken one, as is afforded by the book before us. To students of the more thorough kind in law and in the philosophy of Government and morals, the work has long been well known, but we have met with men in large practice at the Bar who had never heard of the work as one of the deepest treatises on morals and legislation which has ever appeared in this country. "-Spectator.6 MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS.REV. DR. HESSEY.SUNDAY-ITS ORIGIN, HISTORY, AND PRESENT OBLIGATIONS. By Rev. J. A. HESSEY, D.C.L. , Head Master of Merchant Taylors ' School, and Preacher to the Hon. Soc. of Gray's Inn. Second Edition. With a copious Index. 8vo." Without being able to congratulate Dr. Hessey on a decided success we may safely praise the book as one of great and general interest, and a not unworthy successor to the valuable lectures of Mr. Rawlinson in 1859, themselves coming offnot badly from a contrast so trying as that naturally suggested by their taking up those of Professor Mansel in 1858. 'The Bamptons, " in fact, would seem to haveundergone a revival, and are latterly become an appreciable addition to the literary total of each season. Dr. Hessey is well known as an eloquentpreacher. His command of language is well used in the Lectures before us to warm and vivify the otherwise somewhat tedious historical and antiquarian researches into which his subject leads him. Dr. Hessey has, however, conducted his delicate and difficult undertaking with rare learning and candour throughout.As a collection of materials bearing upon Sunday, its history, literature, antiquities,&c. , the Bampton- Lectures of 1860 stand altogether without a rival—indeed,without a second. " -Guardian.MR. HORACE MARRYAT.ATWOTHE DANISH YEARS' RESIDENCE IN JUTLAND, ISLES, AND COPENHAGEN. By HORACE MARRYAT. With Map and Illustrations. 2 Vols. 8vo. 248."It has seldom been our good fortune to fall in with such an agreeable work as Mr. Marryat's tour through Denmark, not only from the intrinsic interest of the subject, but also owing to the singularly easy and unaffected flow of the narrative. He combines the discerning eye of the archeologist, the ready hand ofan artist, and the knowledge of the historian. ” —Literary Gazette.WM. SMITH, LL.D.A DICTIONARY OF THE BIBLE;ItsAntiquities, Biography, Geography, and Natural History. Edited by WILLIAM SMITH, LL.D., Classical Examiner in the University of London. 2nd Edition.With Plans and Woodcuts. Medium 8vo. 42s." The present work sustains Dr. Wm. Smith's high reputation. The biographical, the topographical, and the archeological articles are both copiously and carefully done. It is a repertory of invaluable Biblical lore. "-Literary Churchman." The work has our strongest recommendation. We place it on our library- shelf as a treasure, and we hope congregations will enable their ministers to ' do likewise. " -Evangelical Magazine." The work indicates a wide range of investigation, a thorough acquaintance with the subjects treated, as well as an appreciation of what the student of the Bible needs. It is more thorough and complete than any previous dictionary of the kind,and will add greatly to the interest and profit in studying the Bible, both for the student of theology and for all others who may wish to avail themselves of the best facilities for that study. " -American Bibliotheca Sacra.MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 7THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON'SSUPPLEMENTARY DESPATCHES. Edited by his Son, the Present Duke.The Volumes have been published as follows: -I. IV.-INDIA. 1797-1805. V. -IRISH CORRESPONDENCE. 1807-9.VI.—DENMARK, MEXICO, PORTUGAL, AND SPAIN. 1807-1810.VII. THE WAR IN THE PENINSULA. (Now Ready. )8vo. 20s. each." The interest of this publication continues unbroken, and every new volumeadds to our surprise that so many documents, historically important and singularly illustrative of Wellington as a man and a soldier, should so long have remained unedited. "-Athenæum.ACAPTAIN FORBES, R.N.STANDING NAVY; ITS NECESSITY ANDORGANIZATION. By CHARLES STUART FORBES, Commander R. N. , Author of " Iceland; its Volcanoes, Glaciers, and Geysers. " Post 8vo. 3s. 6d.MR. JAMES FERGUSSON.NOTES ON THE SITE OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE AT JERUSALEM: being an Answer to an article in the " Edin- burgh Review, " of October, 1860. By JAMES FERGUSSON, Author of an " Essay on the Topography of Ancient Jerusalem, &c ." Second Edition. 8vo.2s. 6d."Mr. Fergusson has come out in force. Fourteen years have produced nothing to weaken his opinion that Constantine built the Dome of the Rock, or what is now called the Mosque of Omar, over whathe at least supposed to be the sepulchre of Christ. Mr. Fergusson has unquestionably the best of the argument. "-Builder,ERMONS SETHE PROVOST OF QUEEN'S.PREACHED IN LINCOLN'SINN CHAPEL. By Rev. WM. THOMSON, D.D. , Chaplain in Ordinary to the Queen, Provost of Queen's Coll. , Oxford, and Preacher to the Honourable Society of Lincoln's Inn. 8vo. 10s. 6d." The Provost of Queen's is well known as one of the most eloquent and earnest clergymen in the English Church. There is nothing in Dr. Thomson'ssermons to indicate that they have been specially written with a view to the needs of a particular audience, but they are written in language always chaste and elegant, and often most eloquent, and may be regarded as worthy of being classed amongthe most favourable specimens of modern English eloquence. "-Critic.8 MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS.MR. JOHN FORSTER.I. ARREST OF THE FIVE MEMBERS BY CHARLES I. A Chapter of English History re- written. Post 8vo. 128."Written by Mr. Forster with a stern minuteness and a dramatic forcethat must render his work a standard document to every diligent student of the time. "-Quarterly Review.II. DEBATES ON THE GRAND REMONSTRANCE, 1641.With an Introductory Essay on English Freedom under Plantagenet and Tudor Sovereigns. Post 8vo, 12s." Mr. Forster has exhibited great research, and thrown much light on thehistory of this momentous crisis. " -Edinburgh Review.III. BIOGRAPHICAL ESSAYS.OLIVER CROMWELL- DANIEL DEFOE-SIR RICHARD STEELE-CHARLES CHURCHILL -SAMUEL FOOTE. Post 8vo. 12s." Mr. Forster's Biographies have permanent interest and value." -The Times.MR. HEPWORTH DIXON.PERSONAL HISTORY OF LORD BACON.From Unpublished Papers. By W. HEPWORTH DIXON, Barrister-at- Law, of the Inner Temple. 2nd Thousand. 8vo. 12s." Mr. Dixon's volume is one of the most interesting and entertaining books of the season, and it is especially valuable for the new light it sheds on the subject by the introduction of original materials. These materials, to be sure, werewithin the reach of any person who desired to write an impartial biography.But Mr. Dixon no less deserves honour for withstanding the prejudice that Bacon's moral character was unquestionably settled as base, and for daring to investigateanew the testimony on which the judgment was founded. The value of Mr. Dixon's book consists in its introduction of new facts to illustrate every questionable incident in Bacon's career. " -Atlantic Monthly.MR. H. SUMNER MAINE.ANCIENT EARLY HISTORY OFLAWSOCIETY,:ANDITSITS RELATION CONNECTION TO MODERN IDEAS WITH . By HENRY THESUMNER MAINE, Reader in Jurisprudence and the Civil Law at the MiddleTemple, and formerly Regius Professor of Civil Law in the University of Cambridge.8vo. 12s." This volume will form a text- book for all English students of jurisprudence.It in every way deserves to do so. It presents elementary ideas in a distinctshape; it shows how endless are the ramifications of the history of jurisprudence which can be followed by learned ingenuity; it handles law in a large and freespirit; it clears up points as to which an obscurity prevails in the minds of many writers and readers, and it is written with singular clearness and with a most remarkable command of metaphorical language. "—Saturday Review.MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS.MR. HENRY GOUGER'S9ERSONAL NARRATIVE OF TWO YEARS'SUFFERING IN A BURMESE PRISON. With Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 12s."This narrative in its cheerfully- religious tone explains at once how life and reason could survive so fiery an ordeal. In the enterprising spirit of the British merchant-fearless of danger, hopeful of success -we recognise a perfectly national trait of which we may well be proud. Such men have ever been the pioneers ofnational prosperity, the harbingers of Christianity and civilization . "-Gentleman's Magazine.MURRAY'SHANDBOOK TO THE CATHEDRALS - OF6TERBURY, and ROCHESTER. With 200 Illustrations . 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. 24s." While these volumes have the advantages of ' guide-books, ' they are not written in the dry manner in which ordinary handbooks ' are for the most part executed. The work is handsomely printed and will be an ornament to thelibrary, table, or shelves of the parochial clergyman and country gentleman. To any one who has not much time to devote to ecclesiological studies they will be invaluable, as comprising within a reasonable space a vast amount of reliable information on the architecture and antiquities of those sacred edifices which thepiety of our ancestors reared for the worship of Almighty God. " —English Church-

• • See also the advertisem*nt at page 27.

man.

DR. WM. SMITH.STUDENT'S MANUAL OF ANCIENT GEO- GRAPHY; based on the large " Dictionary of Greek and Roman Geography. "With Plans and Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 98." It has been thought that a Manual, giving, in a moderate compass, the mostimportant results embodied in the ' Dictionary of Greek and Roman Geography, 'would prove an acceptable addition to our school and college literature. The mostimportant additions made to the original work are: -1. A history of Geography in Antiquity, containing an account of the views of the Hebrews, as well as of the Greeks and Romans, and tracing the progress of the science from the mythical accounts of the poets through the progressive systems of Herodotus, Eratosthenes,Strabo, Ptolemy, and intermediate writers. This portion of the work is illustrated by maps of the world as known to the poets, historians, and geographers. It concludes with a chapter upon the Mathematical and Physical Geography of the Ancients. 2. As full an account of Scriptural Geography as was consistent withthe limits of the work. Not only is considerable space devoted to Palestine andthe adjacent countries, but information is given upon all other Scriptural subjects,such as the Travels of St. Paul, which can be illustrated by a knowledge ofgeography. In this part of the work important assistance has been derived from the recently published Dictionary of the Bible. ' 3. Numerous quotations from the Greek and Roman poets, which either illustrate or are illustrated by the statements in the text. Great pains have been taken to make the book asinteresting as the nature ofthe subject would allow by historical and ethnographical discussions, while numerous maps, plans, and other illustrations, give life andreality to the descriptions. "-Preface.10LIFEMR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS.THE LATE BISHOP OF CALCUTTA.IFE OF DANIEL WILSON, D.D., LateLORD BISHOP OF CALCUTTA and Metropolitan of India. With Selections from his Letters and Journals. By Rev. JOSIAH BATEMAN, M.A. , Rector of North Cray. Second and Condensed Edition. With Portrait and Illustrations.Post 8vo. 98." We notice with peculiar pleasure a new Edition of ' Bishop Daniel Wilson's Life by Mr. Bateman, complete in one volume. ' About a third of the matter con- tained in the former edition is omitted: but, so far from injuring, we think the omission has rather improved the work than otherwise, while in substance it is the same. It is presented in a more portable and convenient form, and at a muchcheaper cost. A stronger light is thrown upon the subject of the memoir, andattention is more concentrated upon his character. It is still a handsome volume,fit for the library, and will, we doubt not, have a large and lasting circulation , 'Christian Observer.""THE AUTHOR OF " SELF HELP."ORKMEN'S EARNINGS SAVINGSAND STRIKES. By SAMUEL SMILES, Author of " Self Help, " " Life ofGeorge Stephenson. " Reprinted from the Quarterly Review. Post 8vo. 1s. 6d." Such a work as the one before us was needed to fill up a vacant niche in our popular literature, and we have no doubt but that it will obtain, as it deserves,an extensive circulation among both employers and employed. "-Daily Chronicle.REV. C. W. KING.ANTIQUE VALUE, AS INTERPRETERS GEMSOF ANCIENT; THEIR HISTORYORIGIN , AND AS ILLUSTRATIVE , USESOF, ANCIENT ANDART. With Hints to Gem Collectors. By Rev. C. W. KING, M.A. , Fellow ofTrinity College, Cambridge. With Plates and numerous Illustrations. 8vo. 42s."We cordially thank Mr. King for the production of a work of great researchand intelligence, upon a department of the fine arts which has been too long and too completely neglected in this country. Whilst painting, sculpture, architecture,and ornamental pottery, have all had their expositors and historians addressing themselves in a popular mode to the general community, engraved gems and medals have been omitted as subjects of popular inquiry, and reserved for the speculations of the select few in the privacy of the closet. And yet there is nodepartment of fine art which comprises more abundant or more valuable store of knowledge for the historian, the archeologist, and the lover of art. The volumeis illustrated by many hundred engravings, and may be recommended as the most complete and serviceable handbook of ancient gems which has yet appeared. "—Illustrated London News.MR. GROTE.PLATO'S DOCTRINE ON THE ROTATION OF THE EARTH, and Aristotle's Comment upon that Doctrine. By GEORGE GROTE, Author of " The History of Greece. " Second Edition. 8vo. 1s. 6d.MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 11LORD CARNARVON.RECOLLECTIONS OF THE DRUSES, AND SOME NOTES ON THEIR RELIGION. By the EARL OF CARNARVON. Second Edition. Post 8vo. 5s. 6d."Lord Carnarvon's visit to the Lebanon took place when the Druse people wereagitated by the enforcement of the conscription, and stood armed, although notactually fighting, upon the thresholds of their hill fortresses. Their history has afascination for Lord Carnarvon, whose volume is modest, lively, and particularlywell-written. "-Athenæum.MRS. GROTE.MEMOIR OF THE LIFE OF THE LATE SCHEFFER.Post 8vo. 8s. 6d.By MRS. GROTE. Second Edition . With Portrait." The life of Ary Scheffer, by Mrs. Grote, strikes us as being just such abiography of that true- hearted man as he himself would have wished the world to have of him. Written by one who knew him intimately, and cherishes a tenderand respectful regret for his loss , it does justice to his mind and character, andpays to the latter the tribute of a warm but not undiscriminating admiration. "-Spectator.DR. WAAGEN.THEIE GERMAN, FLEMISH, AND DUTCHby Dr. WAAGEN, Director General of the Berlin Gallery. With Illustrations.2 Vols. , post 8vo. 248." This Handbook in its present form is not so much a new edition as a newbook. For all practical purposes, especially those of reference, it is a very much better one. Within moderate compass it gives an adequate account of the threeallied schools. As regards the earlier masters, it is animated bythe more reverentfeeling which now prevails, and duly profits by the new facts that recent researchhas established. It is the only book which in our, or perhaps any language,really does afford a satisfactory popular index to northern art. "-Critic.LORD CORNWALLIS.CORRESPONDENCE OF LORD CORNWALLIS. Relating chiefly to his Administration in INDIA, AMERICA, to the UNION WITH IRELAND, and the PEACE OF AMIENS. From Family, Official, and other Documents, &c. Edited by the late CHARLES ROSS, Esq. Second Edition, revised. With Portrait and Maps. 3 Vols. , 8vo. 638." The Cornwallis Correspondence is indispensable to the student of modern history, and is one of those books which no gentleman's library should be without.It will take rank with the best political memoirs or compilations that have appeared within living memory, with the marked advantage of being far better edited than most of them."-Quarterly Review.12HMR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS.REV. GEORGE RAWLINSON.ISTORICAL EVIDENCES OF THETRUTH OF THE SCRIPTURE RECORDS Stated Anew, with Special Reference to the Doubts and Discoveries of Modern Times. By Rev. GEORGE RAWLINSON, M.A. , late Fellow and Tutor of Exeter College, Oxford. Second Edition. 8vo. 148." We are much mistaken if lectures such as these, the work of a mind endowed with great powers of concentration and combination, do not stimulate the healthy curiosity of many sober inquirers, and divert the minds of others from the fancifuland baseless dreams of rationalism. They ought to attract the more earnest attention from those of the latter class, because they attack the rationalists upon their own ground, and go to prove that the charge of being unhistorical, so often and so recklessly imputed to some of the sacred writers, recoils upon themselves. "-English Churchman.SIR F. B. HEAD.'HE HORSE AND HIS RIDER.THE By SIRFRANCIS B. HEAD, BART. Fourth Thousand. With Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 5s." The worthy baronet gives most admirable advice, and for which, as a lesson of humanity, he deserves the thanks of every sportsman . His chapters on shoeing,roughing, going to cover, and coming home, and half-a-dozen minor points connected with sport, are very good, and they are the more valuable because they are the remarks of a practical man. To speak well, a man should have a thorough knowledge of his subject, and a love for it. True eloquence depends upon thesetwo things. And no man writes well upon such subject- matter as that before us,unless he has something more than theoretical acquaintance with it . But go to the book itself. You will find much that will be of service, though you never gobeyond the dust of Rotten Row." -Baily's Magazine of Sports.REV. J. R. FISHLAKE.BUTTMAN'S LEXILOGUS; a Critical Exami- nation of the Meaning of numerous Greek Words, chiefly in Homer and Hesiod.Translated by REV. J. R. FISHLAKE. Fifth Edition. 8vo. 128.THE AUTHOR OF " ERIC. "N ESSAY ON THE ORIGIN OF LANΑΝGUAGE. -Based on Modern Researches, and especially on the Works of M.RENAN. By Rev. F. W. FARRAR, M.A., Late Fellow of Trinity Coll. , Cam- bridge. Fcap. 8vo. 5s."We are glad to find this subject taken up by one whose previous training places him in a most favourable position for the task. Mr. Farrar has also the unusual discretion not to obtrude his own speculations, and only claims origi- nality for the arrangement and the exposition of his materials. We have no doubt that Mr. Farrar's book will be found acceptable to all who do not wish toremain in ignorance of some of the most interesting speculations and discoveries of modern science, and that it will also in many cases send his readers to the larger works to which he himself has been indebted for the conclusions he has placed before us in both a sound and an attractive shape. " -Press.MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 13THE LATE MR. LESLIE, R.A.AUTOBIOGRAPHICAL With RECOLLECTIONS. Selections from his Correspondence, and an Essay on his Character as an Artist . By TOM TAYLOR. With Portrait. 2 Vols. , post 8vo. 18s." In the Autobiography of Leslie, we have reminiscences of his own life, inter- woven with recollections and anecdotes of the most eminent men of his time, with many of whom he was intimate. Thus we make pleasant acquaintance with mostagreeable people, we listen to amusing anecdotes, we hear now and then weighty remarks, and have imparted to us in confidence, as little gossip as could possibly be expected; indeed, so little, that we rather wish for more. It is plain, thatnothing has been set down in malice. In fact, we have enjoyed our visits so much,that we should not object to their repetition, and we congratulate ourselves, that we have made such friendships. " -North American Review, Jan. 1861 .PROFESSOR MANSEL, B.D.THE LIMITS OF RELIGIOUS THOUGHT EXAMINED. By REV. H. L. MANSEL, B.D., Magd. Coll. , Oxford. Fourth Edition. Post 8vo. 78. 6d." Mr. Mansel's intricate and arduous theme has in some of its relations beenengaging his earnest attention for years. Bringing to it as he does the resourcesof a commanding intellect and most varied learning, his work has taken its place in the class which not this age alone, but ages to come will prize and study. "-North British Review.THESIR EARDLEY WILMOT.OF AN HEGLISHLIFERY ANDMANPURSUITS DE FAINASSHETON SMITH. By SIR JOHN E. EARDLEY WILMOT, BART. Second Edition. Portrait and Woodcuts. 8vo. 15s.66 Among the mighty hunters of England, must ever be named " Tom Smith, 'who for a period of half a century was master of hounds and his own huntsman.These reminiscences are in every respect remarkable for their interest. The Nimrod in question was, indeed, no ordinary man. It is not saying too much ofthis work to say an extraordinary man has found an excellent biographer. "-Observer.AM. DELEPIERRE.HISTORY OF FLEMISH LITERATUREAND ITS CELEBRATED AUTHORS, FROM THE TWELFTH CENTURY TO THE PRESENT TIME. By OCTAVE DELEPIERRE. 8vo. 9s."We cannot give M. Delepierre higher praise than by saying that his work will form no unworthy companion and supplement to Hallam. It is an excellent,valuable, and interesting synopsis of a national literature; and we must add that our author's English is marked by a purity which we remember to have met with in no living foreign writer except Professor Max Müller. "-Literary Gazette.14 MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS.DR. WM. SMITH.PRINCIPIA LATINA-PART II. A Reading- Book, Mythology, Geography, Roman Antiquities, and History. With Notes and Dictionary. By WM. SMITH, LL.D. 12mo. 38. 6d.·" No one who has had much experience in examining boys can have failed to notice how few acquire any degree of facility in translating a Latin passage which they have not previously seen. This arises, not only from their having read too little, but also from their beginning to read the classical authors too soon. Itshould be recollected that the great works of antiquity were written for men and not for boys, and that hence young people find it difficult to understand and enjoy them . If we wish boys to read Latin with facility, we must provide themwith the right kind of books . The language must be easy, and the subjects suitable to their capacity; while the information conveyed should prepare them to under- stand the ancient writers, who lived under a different form of civilisation and pro- fessed a different religion . This has been attempted in the present Work, which,it is believed, will not only prove interesting and intelligible to young people, but will serve as an introduction to a knowledge of Ancient Mythology and Geography,of Roman History and Antiquities. "-Preface.ONMr. DARWIN.N THE ORIGIN OF SPECIES BY MEANSOF NATURAL SELECTION. Or, The Preservation of Favoured Races in the Struggle for Life. By CHARLES DARWIN, M.A., F.R.S. Seventh Thousand.Post 8vo. 148." A work on this vexed question from the pen of so able and excellent a naturalist,and withal so well -known a writer as the author of the ' Journal of Researchesduring the Beagle's Voyage Round the World, ' will, we feel certain, be hailed with pleasure by all who are in any way interested in the subject. There is scattered through the work palpable evidence of such depth of thought and closeness of research, and the opinions advanced and conclusions arrived at have evidently been the result of so much careful and still better personal observation, that no one,whatsoever may be his personal ideas on the subject, can hesitate to treat the writer's views with the greatest respect, or to give them the fullest consideration possible. ”—English Churchman.ONSIR JOHN COLERIDGE.N PUBLIC SCHOOL EDUCATION. By the Right Hon. SIR J. T. COLERIDGE, D.C.L. Third Edition, with Additions.Fcap. 8vo. 28." It was natural that Sir John Coleridge's lecture should give rise to a good deal of controversy. Delicacy towards the masters, and the extreme difficulty of inspecting the system without any reference to the shortcomings of individuals,have hitherto deterred people from entering on so invidious a controversy. Sir John Coleridge has belled the cat. "-Saturday Review." Like all old institutions, Eton required some ventilation, and we sincerely rejoice that an old Etonian, with the best and kindliest feelings, has breathed into this noble foundation his gentle and warning advice, which we trust will be attended to. The lecture is an important expression of well- weighed judgment. '-Literary Churchman.MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 15REV. C. F. SECRETAN.MEMOIRSNELSONOF. ByTHEREV. C.LIFE F. SECRETAN AND, M.A.,TIMES Incumbent ofOFHolyTrinity, Westminster. With Portrait. 8vo. 10s. 6d." Mr. Secretan has done Churchmen service by this excellent companion volume to Mr. Anderdon's Life of Ken. The work is well and carefully done as a whole,and is written with a right spirit and in a fair and sensible tone. The wonder,indeed, is that it should have remained for a writer in the nineteenth century to execute the task. " -Guardian.'HE HAND:THESIR CHARLES BELL.ITS MECHANISM ANDVITAL ENDOWMENTS, AS EVINCING DESIGN. By SIR CHARLES BELL,K.G.H. With an Account of the Author's Discoveries in the Nervous System .By ALEXANDER SHAW, Surgeon to the Middlesex Hospital. Sixth Edition,revised, with Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 6s."One of the most excellent monographs in the land, and as a popular exposition may be taken as a model essay. In it we may say he epitomised more thanone of his earlier discoveries, or rather the theories founded upon them. He wasa man who treated his science as a service under God, who introduced newknowledge to men; and by so doing ameliorated the agonies of myriads of hisfellow- creatures, saved countless lives, and has left a name posterity will not failto honour. "-Dublin University Magazine.LORD WROTTESLEY.THOUGHTS ON GOVERNMENT AND LEGISLATION. By LORD WROTTESLEY. Post 8vo. 78. 6d."We have no hesitation in saying that to a large proportion of persons, who have not made politics a special study, Lord Wrottesley's unpretending manual may be very useful, if it were only by showing them the extent of the field of discussionopened by the questions of the day, and the self- cultivation necessary to deal with them in such a manner as a conscientious politician would desire to fit himself for. "--Globe.REV. JAMES C. ROBERTSON, M.A.BECKET: A BIOGRAPHY. By the Rev. JAMES C. ROBERTSON, M.A., Canon of Canterbury, and Author of " History of the Christian Church. " With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 98."""We believe that Canon Robertson has given the true sketch of Becket's life.His judgment is based on a right study of history and fair appreciation of the place held in the story of the British Constitution by Henry II . , who with all his unkempt habits and his purple glows of passion, had the soundest head that a Plantagenet is known ever to have carried on his shoulders. Mr. Robertson has mastered thecontemporary lives of Becket, and has reduced to order in his own mind the con- fused mass of the extant letters. " -Examiner.16 MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS.PROFESSOR TYNDALL.THEHEE GLACIERS OF THE ALPS. Being aNarrative of Excursions and Ascents; an account of the Origin and Phenomenaof Glaciers; and an Exposition of the physical principles to which they are related.By JOHN TYNDALL, F.R.S. , Professor of Natural Philosophy in the Royal Insti- tution of Great Britain, and in the Government School of Mines. With Illustrations.Post 8vo. 14s." Professor Tyndall, who, at an early age, had taken an eminent position among the cultivators of physical science, was led four years ago, by some fortunate accident, to pass a few weeks amidst the glaciers of the Bernese Oberland and theTyrol. A slight amount of practice and experience developed in him the qualities of a first-rate mountaineer, and in the eyes of enthusiastic Alpine travellers his achievements with the alpenstock and ice- axe are at least as remarkable as thosethat have given him his present place in the world of science. The first part of his book, which is chiefly narrative, tells the story of adventures as difficult and daring as any that his brother members of the Alpine Club have recorded; while the second part is devoted to the explanation of the more striking phenomena that are encountered by a traveller in high mountain countries. " -Edinburgh Review.THE MASTER OF BALIOL.SERMONS PREACHED BEFORE THEUNIVERSITY OF OXFORD. By REV. ROBERT SCOTT, D.D., Master ofBaliol College, Oxford. Post 8vo. 8s. 6d." These discourses must be regarded as so many practical applications of Holy Scripture to the ordinary circ*mstances of human life; and we hasten to express our sense of the singular success with which the preacher has fulfilled his purpose.We have seldom, if ever, read a volume of sermons in which the self- delusions ofthe young are touched with a more skilful hand, or a more accurate knowledge displayed of their moral difficulties. Its object is practical, and its tone affectionate and friendly, such as becomes the preacher, who represents at the same time the tutor and the guardian of his audience. "-Press.SIR CHARLES EASTLAKE.HAANDBOOK OF PAINTING: THE ITALIANSCHOOLS. Translated from the German of KUGLER. Edited, with Notes, by SIR CHARLES LOCK EASTLAKE, R.A.; with 150 Illustrations from the Old Masters. Third and revised Edition. 2 Vols. , post 8vo. 30s." Illustrations are given in the last edition of Kugler's Schools of Painting in Italy, ' one, if not the most valuable, authority on the subject of Italian art. "Professor Hart's Lectures." By far the best manual we are acquainted with, for every one who, without the opportunity of foreign and particularly Italian travel, desires to make a real study of art. Its method, its chronological arrangement, and its generally judicious criticism, make it most instructive to a learner. " -The Ecclesiastic.MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 17MURRAY'SHANDBOOKS FOR THE CONTINENT, &c.The object of MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS is to give matter- of-fact descriptions of what OUGHT TO BE SEEN at each place, and is calculated to interest an intelligent English traveller, without bewildering him with an account of all that MAY be seen; —to avoid chronological details; and instead of abridging the records of a town from beginning to end, to select such local anecdotes as are connected with remarkable events which have happened there, or with distinguished men who have lived there; -to adopt as simple and condensed a style as possible, avoiding florid descriptions and exaggerated superlatives; —and to use the descriptions of others, where good and correct, rather than obtrude extracts from the Editor's own journals.The following are Ready:-HANDBOOK-TRAVEL-TALK, IN ENGLISH, FRENCH, ITALIAN, ANDHANDBOOK-NORTH GERMANY. HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRUSSIA, AND THE RHINE TO SWITZERLAND. Map. Post 8vo. 10s.HANDBOOK-SOUTH GERMANY. THE TYROL, BAVARIA, AUSTRIA,SALZBURG, STYRIA, HUNGARY, AND THE DANUBE FROM ULM TO THE BLACK SEA. Map.Post 8vo. 10s.HANDBOOK - GERMAN, FLEMISH, AND DUTCH SCHOOLS OF PAINTING. Woodcuts. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 248.HANDBOOK-SWITZERLAND. THE ALPS OF SAVOY AND PIEDMONT.Maps. Post 8vo. 98.HANDBOOK - FRANCE. NORMANDY, BRITTANY, THE FRENCH ALPS,DAUPHINE, PROVENCE AND THE PYRENEES. Maps. Post 8vo. 108.HANDBOOK-SPAIN. ANDALUSIA, RONDA, GRENADA, CATALONIA, GAL- LICIA, THE BASQUES, ARRAGON, &c. Maps. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 308.HANDBOOK-PORTUGAL. LISBON, &c. Map. Post 8vo. 98.-HANDBOOK-CENTRAL ITALY. FLORENCE, SOUTH TUSCANY AND THE PAPAL STATES. Map. Post 8vo. 10s.HANDBOOK-ROME AND ITS ENVIRONS. Map. Post 8vo. 98.12s.HANDBOOK-NORTH ITALY. SARDINIA, LOMBARDY, VENICE, PARMA,PIACENZA, MODENA, LUCCA AND TUSCANY AS FAR AS THE VAL D'ARNO. Maps. Post 8vo.HANDBOOK-SOUTH ITALY. THE TWO SICILIES, NAPLES, POMPEII,HERCULANEUM, VESUVIUS, &c. Maps. Post 8vo, 108.HANDBOOK-ITALIAN SCHOOLS OF PAINTING. Woodcuts. 2 Vols.Post 8vo. 30s.HANDBOOK- EGYPT.Map. Post 8vo. 158.THE NILE, ALEXANDRIA, CAIRO, AND THEBES.HANDBOOK SYRIA, PALESTINE. PENINSULA OF SINAI, EDOM,SYRIAN DESERT, &c. Maps. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 24s.HANDBOOK-INDIA. BOMBAY AND MADRAS. Map. 2 Vols. Post 8vo.248.HANDBOOK GREECE. THE IONIAN ISLANDS, ALBANIA, THESSALY,AND MACEDONIA. Maps. Post 8vo. 158.HANDBOOK-DENMARK. NORWAY AND SWEDEN. Maps. Post 8vo. 15s.HANDBOOK-RUSSIA. FINLAND AND ICELAND. Maps. Post 8vo. 12s .bALBEMARLE STREET,May, 1861.FORTHCOMING WORKS.EXPLORATIONS AND ADVENTURESIN EQUATORIAL AFRICA;WITH ACCOUNTS OF THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THESAVAGE TRIBES,AND THECHASE OF THE GORILLA, NEST- BUILDING APE, CHIMPANZEE,CROCODILE, ELEPHANT, HIPPOPOTAMUS, Etc.By Paul Du Chaillu.With Map and 80 Illustrations. 8vo. (Ready. )" The recent meeting of the ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY was a remarkable one, for the extraordinary interest excited by the paper read by M. duChaillu, who has recently returned from explorations in West EquatorialAfrica, and sketched the story of his courageous deeds with considerablevivacity. Of the novelty and importance of his contributions to naturalhistory, particularly in his specimens of the Gorilla, an extraordinary andgigantic species of the Ape tribe, no one who heard Professor Owen'sbrilliant eulogium could feel a doubt. M. du Chaillu's work we may expectto cause some excitement. "-Publishers' Circular.THE HISTORY AND THE HEROES OFTHE ART OF MEDICINE;By J. Rutherfurd Russell, M.D.With Portraits. 8vo. (Ready. )MR. MURRAY'S FORTHCOMING WORKS.AIDS TO FAITH;A SERIES OF THEOLOGICAL ESSAYS BY SEVERAL WRITERS.REV. F. C. Cook THE BISHOP OF CORKREV. PROFESSOR ELLICOTT REV. PROFESSOR MANSEL REV. DR. MCCAUL•·THE BISHOP OF OXFORDREV. GEORGE RAWLINSONAN ESSAY ON PROPHECY.REV. DR. THOMSON, PROVOSTOF QUEEN'S, }Ideology and Subscription.Christian Evidences.19Inspiration and Interpretation ofthe New Testament.On some Theories of the History ofMan.On Miracles.Man's Place in Creation.The Pentateuch.Doctrine ofthe Atonement.One Volume. 80,THE HAND BIBLE,FOR PRIVATE AND FAMILY READING.Edited with Notes, illustrating the Meaning of Words, Allusions to Customs, References toScripture Passages and Geography, History, and the Fulfilment of Prophecy.By Rev. W. Thomson, D.D., F.R.G.S. ,Provost of Queen's College, Oxford, Chaplain in Ordinary to the Queen, and Preacher to the Hon. Society of Lincoln's Inn.COMMENCING WITH THENEW TESTAMENT.Printed in a legible type, with faithful views of Scenery, from Photographs and exact Sketches made on the spot. In 2 portable and convenient Vols. Crown 8vo.THE ENGLISH CATHEDRAL OF THE19th CENTURY.By A. J. Beresford Hope.With Illustrations. 8vo. 12s. (Ready. )SUGGESTIONS ON POPULAREDUCATION.By Nassau William Senior.8vo.2020MR. MURRAY'S FORTHCOMING WORKS.METALLURGY.THE ART OF EXTRACTING METALS FROM THEIR ORES AND ADAPTINGTHEM TO VARIOUS PURPOSES OF MANUFACTURE.Embracing the whole subject under the following heads:-1. GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF THE SCIENCE. 2. FUEL. 3. MATERIALSUSED IN METALLURGICAL CONSTRUCTIONS. 4. SPECIAL METALLURGICALPROCESSES, INCLUDING ASSAYING.By John Percy, M.D., F.R.S.,Lecturer on Metallurgy at the Government School of Mines.Illustrated by numerous Wood Engravings carefully drawn to Scale. 8vo.The Author has received from British smelters an amount of willing co- operation for this work which he could never have anticipated. Original Drawings of Furnaces, &c. ,Descriptions of Processes, and Details of Expenditure have been freely communicated, with full permission to publish them. In return, the Author hopes to present to the Britishsmelter a complete account of the present state of Metallurgy abroad . Almost every important process has been in a greater or less degree re- investigated by the Author;and all the experimental results which it has required many years to obtain will be embodied in this work. The Illustrations, it is believed, will be sufficiently distinct andaccurate to admit of their being used as working drawings .SCEPTICISM;ITS RETROGRESSIVE CHARACTER IN THEOLOGY AND PHILOSOPHY;WITH ESPECIAL REFERENCE TO THE NEW MOVEMENT AT OXFORD.A Letter to the Rev. William B. Bryan, M.A., Rector of Rodington, &c.By Lord Lindsay.8vo.THE MESSIAH AND HIS KINGDOM:THE LIFE, SUFFERINGS, DEATH, RESURRECTION, AND ASCENSIONOF OUR BLESSED LORD.With Map. 2 Vols. 8vo.HISTORY OFTHE INVASION OF THE CRIMEA.By Alexander William Kinglake, M.P.VOL. I. CONTAINING A NARRATIVE OF THE TRANSACTIONS WHICH BROUGHT ON WAR BETWEEN RUSSIA AND THE WESTERN POWERS.8vo.MR. MURRAY'S FORTHCOMING WORKS.SECOND VOLUME OF MEMOIRS OF21LORD CHANCELLOR SHAFTESBURY.Edited by W. D. Christie, Esq. ,Her Majesty's Minister in Brazil.8vo."Other volumes will, we hope, follow from Mr. Christie's pen, as we shall look with interest for such subsequent contributions to the great Earl's biography; he has already shown that many of the specific charges against his hero rest upon a false construction of facts or plausible conjecture in the absence of them, and that at all events in early life he was not the thorough villain that most writers have delighted to paint. " -Christian Remembrancer, Jan. 1861.LIFE, JOURNALS, AND LETTERS OFJONATHAN SWIFTBy John Forster.INTRODUCTORY TO A NEW EDITION OF HIS WORKS.8vo.LIFE OF SIR JOSHUA REYNOLDS.WITH NOTICES OF HOGARTH, WILSON, GAINSBOROUGH, AND OTHERARTISTS, HIS CONTEMPORARIES.By the late C. R. Leslie, R.A.,Author of " The Memoirs of Constable, " and " Handbook for Young Painters. "Edited by Tom Taylor.With Illustrations. Fcap. 4to.IRON DEFENCES:BEING A POSTSCRIPT TO THE 5TH EDITION OF " NAVAL GUNNERY. ”By Gen. Sir Howard Douglas, Bart.2nd and revised Edition. 8vo." A pamphlet which contains many interesting facts and observations relating to the subject of iron defences for ships and batteries. Those who think and those who writeon national defences should carefully read Sir H. Douglas's calm and practical advice.It is now more than forty years since Sir Howard Douglas published his Treatise on Naval Gunnery. The Edition of the present year discusses at considerable length the merits, so far as they had been tested at the time of publication, of the Armstrong and Whitworth Guns. Few persons will refuse to recognise the Author as one of the highest authorities upon these questions. " -Saturday Review.22 MR. MURRAY'S FORTHCOMING WORKS.THE WORKS OF ALEXANDER POPE.A New Edition. With a NEW LIFE, INTRODUCTIONS, and NOTES.By Rev. Whitwell Elwin.With Portrait. Vol. I. 8vo.This edition will include the materials collected by the late MR. CROKER, and all the notes of the previous editors which are illustrative of the text. The CORRESPONDENCE willcomprise about 700 Letters, which have never hitherto been collected, and of these nearly 500 are entirely new, and printed for the first time. To the PROSE WORKS will be addedthe anecdotes of Pope, and the records of his conversation, which have been preserved by Spence and others. The POETICAL WORKS will contain the unpublished satire on theDuke of Marlborough, and many new lines and various readings derived from the original manuscripts which were presented by Pope to his friend Richardson.THE LIFE OF JESUS CHRIST,HIS MINISTRY AND REDEEMING WORK.An attempt at a complete survey of the subject for all readers, including the Sources, the Acts, the Teaching, and the Fruit of the Redeemer's Life in the World, with a view to remove difficulties, and to assist students of the Bible.By the Rev. W, Thomson, D.D., F.R.G.S.,Provost of the Queen's College, Oxford; Chaplain in Ordinary to the Queen; and Preacher to the Hon. Soc. of Lincoln's Inn.2 Vols. 8vo. With faithful Illustrations of Scenery, &c,A NEWHISTORY OF MODERN EUROPE;FROM THE TAKING OF CONSTANTINOPLE BY THE TURKS TO THE CLOSE OF THE WAR IN THE CRIMEA.By Thos. H. Dyer,'Author of the article " Rome " in " Smith's Dict. of Classical Geography, " &c.Vols. I. and II. 8vo.Although for the greater part of a century Dr. Russell's " History of Modern Europe "has enjoyed without a rival the favour of the public, yet that very fact, whatever criterion it may be thought to be of the literary merit of his book, affords ground for impugning its historical value at the present time. Since the time when Dr. Russell wrote a flood oflight has been poured upon European history by numerous writers both foreign andEnglish as Sismondi, Hallam, Milman, Palgrave, Motley, Mignet, Guizot, Michelet,Von Hammer, Ranke, Von Raumer, Prescott, and many others. The researches ofthese authors have been assisted by the publicity of State papers not before accessible: as the Archives at Simancas, now first laid open, the Documens inédits de l'histoire de France, the Belgian Archives, the Relazioni of the Venetian ambassadors, our own StatePapers, and numberless other documents equally novel and valuable. These materials often serve to place the leading characters, as well as the great events of history, in acompletely new point of view, and have rendered necessary a modification of many of the facts and opinions delivered by Hume, Robertson, and other historians, on whose pages Dr. Russell has so freely drawn.MR. MURRAY'S FORTHCOMING WORKS. 23THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THEMODERN EGYPTIANS,By Edward Wm. Lane.Fifth Edition. With Additions and Improvements from a copy annotated by the Author. Edited by his Nephew, E. STANLEY POOLE.With numerous Woodcuts. 8vo. 188. (Ready).OUTLINES OF ENGLISH LITERATUREFOR STUDENTS AND SCHOLARS.By Thomas B. Shaw.A New Edition, revised and improved. Post 8vo.HISTORY OF HERODOTUS;A NEW ENGLISH VERSION, FROM THE TEXT OF GAISFORD,Edited, with a Life of Herodotus, and Copious Notes and Essays, illustrating theHistory and Geography of Herodotus, from the most recent sources of information,embodying the Chief Results, Historical and Ethnographical, which have been obtained in the Progress of Cuneiform and Hieroglyphical Discovery.By the Rev. George Rawlinson, M.A.,Late Fellow and Tutor of Exeter College, Oxford.Assisted by SIR HENRY RAWLINSON, K.C.B., and SIR J. G. WILKINSON, F.R.S.Revised Edition, with Maps and Woodcuts. 4 vols. 8vo." Mr. Rawlinson's Translation of Herodotus will in no way disappoint the most sanguine expectations. What discoveries modern science has enabled men to make, have been brought to bear upon the elucidation of this ancient historian. The hieroglyphicaland cuneiform characters which have been of late years deciphered, have produced results,which the Editor (assisted by his brother, Sir Henry C. Rawlinson), has made good use of, in illustration of many historical and geographical facts mentioned by Herodotus. The introductory portion is exceedingly interesting, consisting of a learned and careful dissertation upon the life and writings of the Author, in which we are shown the probable sources whence he derived that information which enabled him to write so valuable aHistory. "-Literary Churchman.HANDBOOK FOR PARIS.BEING A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO ALL OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN THATMETROPOLIS AND ITS ENVIRONS.With a detailed clue Map of Paris and Plans. Post 8vo.Uniform with Murray's "Handbook for Modern London. "24 MR. MURRAY'S FORTHCOMING WORKS.THE SECOND AND CONCLUDING VOLUME OFTHE DICTIONARY OF THE BIBLE;ITS ANTIQUITIES, BIOGRAPHY, GEOGRAPHY, AND NATURAL HISTORY.Edited by William Smith, LL.D.,Editor of the Latin and Classical Dictionaries, &c.With Woodcuts. Medium 8vo.A NEW ENGLISH-LATIN DICTIONARY.COMPILED FROM ORIGINAL SOURCES.By William Smith, LL.D.,Classical Examiner in the University of London.8vo. and 12mo.AN HISTORICAL ATLAS OF ANCIENTGEOGRAPHY.Forming a Companion Volume to The Dictionary of Ancient Geography.By William Smith, LL.D.Small Folio.А MEDIEVAL LATIN-ENGLISHDICTIONARY.SELECTED AND TRANSLATED FROM THE GREAT WORK OF DUCANGE.Medium 8vo.Uniform with " DR. SMITH's Latin Dictionary."A LATIN-ENGLISH VOCABULARY FORBEGINNERS,AND A FIRST LATIN DICTIONARY TO PHÆDRUS, CORNELIUS NEPOS,AND CESAR.By Dr. Wm. Smith.12mo.MR. MURRAY'S FORTHCOMING WORKS. 25HANDBOOKS FOR TRAVELLERS INENGLAND AND WALES.HANDBOOK FOR BERKS, BUCKS, AND OXFORDSHIRE,with a full description of the University and City of Oxford, and the Descentof the Thames from Oxford to Maidenhead and Windsor. With Maps. Post8vo. 7s. 6d. (Ready. )"Wherever Englishmen may wander,amongst Indian temples or Northern fiords,or in any civilised country which lies between these widely- situated objects, he issure to find a safe guide in the red Handbooks of Mr. Murray. Every foreign townhas its attractions, its interesting spots,its local associations, its connected history,and its peculiar development of architectural art, and all have found a faithfulchronicler in our great English publisher.There are no guide- books to be comparedto Murray's in any language or in anycountry-either for accuracy, completeness, portability, or for the straightforwardmanner in which the several authors givethe desired information.Having worked up foreign nations, Mr.Murray has at length seen a field for hislabours in our English counties, and hasrendered the same good service to hometourists as continental travellers have forsome considerable time enjoyed. His foreign Handbooks are the best companionsabroad, and his domestic guides to differentdistricts of England show travellers thatthere is something equally interesting andequally worth seeing in our own country.The natural beauty of each district, itsantiquities and its history, are fairly told,and contrast most favourably with the pretentious nonsense which local guide- booksare too frequently garnished with. Whilstthe latter strive to swell the importanceof their single town at the expense of allothers, Mr. Murray's authors evidentlydesire to fix its proper position with regardto all others. This even-handed justiceis seen even more strikingly in the volumeswith which Mr. Murray is following up hisguides to the counties-viz. , ' Handbooks tothe English Cathedrals. " "-BuildingNews.Already Published:HANDBOOK OF MODERN LONDON. 5s.HANDBOOK FOR KENT AND SUSSEX. 10s.HANDBOOK FOR SURREY, HANTS, AND ISLE OFWIGHT. 7s. 6d.HANDBOOK FOR DEVON AND CORNWALL. 78. 6d.HANDBOOK FOR WILTS, DORSET, AND SOMERSET.78. 6d.HANDBOOK FOR SOUTH WALES. 5s. 6d.с2636MR. MURRAY'S FORTHCOMING WORKS.MANUAL OF FOSSIL MAMMALS.Including the substance of the course of Lectures on Osteology and Palæontology of the class Mammalia, delivered at the Metropolitan School of Science, Jermyn Street.By Richard Owen, F.R.S. ,Superintendent of the Natural History Department in the British Museum.With several hundred Illustrations. 8vo.THE FIVE GREAT MONARCHIES OFTHE ANCIENT WORLD.OR THE HISTORY, GEOGRAPHY, AND ANTIQUITIES OF CHALDÆA, ASSYRIA,BABYLONIA, MEDIA, AND PERSIA.Drawn chiefly from Native Records, and Illustrating the various Notices of those Countries in Holy Scripture.By the Rev. George Rawlinson, M.A.With Maps and Illustrations. 3 Vols. 8vo.A HANDBOOK OF DESCRIPTIVE ANDPRACTICAL ASTRONOMY.With Woodcuts. Post 8vo.THE STUDENT'S HISTORY OF FRANCE.Woodcuts. Post 8vo.THE STUDENT'S MANUAL OF MODERNGEOGRAPHY.Woodcuts. Post 8vo.THE STUDENT'S GREEK GRAMMAR.FROM THE GERMAN OF PROFESSOR CURTIUS. Post 8vo.MR. MURRAY'S FORTHCOMING WORKS. 2723HANDBOOK TO THE CATHEDRALSOF ENGLAND AND WALES.SOUTHERN DIVISION. CONTAINING WINCHESTER-SALISBURY - EXETER - WELLS - CHICHESTERROCHESTER. Profusely illustrated. 2 Vols . 24s." The account of each Cathedral hasbeen written after a personal examination,and the history has been brought down tothe year 1860. The descriptions, being intended as well for local guides as for architectural histories, are kept free from alltechnicalities, whilst to increase their value,contributions have been freely levied uponthe histories of Professor Willis, and theyare given with that ready acknowledgment which forms so striking a featurein Murray's foreign Guides. The accountof each Cathedral is divided into two parts,the first embracing that portion which avisitor would wish to read in the Cathedral-its history and details; the second comprising the history of the see and of thearchbishops and bishops who have filled it,which can, of course, be perused at leisureafter the personal inspection." Mr. Murray was not, however, contentto make his books mere local guides; by the aid of Mr. Orlando Jewitt he has transferred to their pages careful engravings,either from photographs or original drawings, of every object referred to, so that,CANTERBURY AND(Ready. )seated leisurely in our studies, we may turnto the different plates, as we should on thespot look up at the building, to understanda reference or to realise a description . Whenthe work is completed these plates will forma series of unequalled architectural examples from the earliest Norman to thelatest Perpendicular, and the monumentaleffigies which are and will be in futureengraved, comprise the greatest variety of costume, armour, and architectural detail." No pains seem to have been sparedto make these volumes creditable to everyone concerned in their publication; authors,engravers, and publishers are alike deserving of the highest praise. No tourist toour glorious cathedral cities should go without them; no architectural student shouldthink his library complete without them.They are admirable educational books, theyare trustworthy guides, they are concisehistories and well- arranged books of reference, and they are the only works in anything like a portable form which have donethe slightest justice to our noble cathedralarchitecture. "--Building News.To be followed byEASTERN DIVISION-OXFORD, PETERBOROUGH, ELY, NORWICH, ANDLINCOLN.WESTERN DIVISION –BRISTOL, GLOUCESTER, WORCESTER, HEREFORD, AND LICHFIELD.NORTHERN DIVISION-YORK, RIPON, DURHAM, CARLISLE, CHESTER,AND MANCHESTER.WELSH DIVISION-LLANDAFF, ST. DAVID'S, ST. ASAPH'S, ANDBANGOR.THE NEW BIOGRAPHIA BRITANNICA.LIVES OF THE WORTHIES OF GREAT BRITAIN.BY VARIOUS WRITERS.EDITED BY WILLIAM SMITH, LL.D.Classical Examiner in the University of London; and Editor of the "Classical and Biblical Dictionaries. '"In Medium Octavo Volumes.NEXT to the Bible, a good treasury of Biography of the great men of our native country is the first want which an Englishman must feel in a library. Yet at present we have nosuch work in our language. Kippis's Biographia Britannica, very good for its time, haslong since become antiquated and imperfect from the immense accession of new names,and of new information concerning old names since the day when it appeared.Chalmers's Dictionary as regards our country is hardly an improvement on Kippis's;the last editor failed to bring it down to the present time, and it labours under the disadvantage of being an attempt at a Universal Biography, -athing amounting almost toan impossibility. Such ambitious Dictionaries have generally proved failures from thevastness of their scope. Rose's Biographical Dictionary is of little or no value in the later letters of the alphabet, and the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge found themselves obliged to give up the attempt after the letter A. Even the best of these works, the Biographie Universelle, is little more than a dictionary of Frenchmen; the English lives are limited in extent and so meagre and imperfect in execution, that no one relies on them for accurate information.On the other hand, a National Biography-though by no means of easy execution-isstill within the bounds of possibility. The publisher and editor, having weighed all the difficulties, have resolved to commence the undertaking, trusting to the support of theBritish nation, and believing that they can produce a work which, for originality,information, correctness, and completeness, shall surpass every other, and may become A HOUSEHOLD Book in every English family.There is hardly a single subject connected with the political and literary history ofGreat Britain, which has not during the present century received elucidation from a vastnumber of writers, while the separate biographies of eminent men form a large library in themselves. The time seems to have come for gathering in this rich harvest, andfor presenting in a single work the information now scattered in various directions, andaccessible only to those who have the command of large libraries.The new BIOGRAPHIA BRITANNICA will contain, in alphabetical order, the lives of allpersons, from the earliest times, who have left behind them any record in the politicalhistory, literature, science, or art of the country. The utmost care will be taken toproportion the length of the Lives to the importance of the persons, a rule to be departedfrom only when some peculiar and original information makes it advisable to dilate.By a proper division of labour the Lives will be classified and handed over to writerseach competent to deal with his own class or profession . The Lives of the more distinguished persons will be narrated at length, with those minute details which constitutethe true charm of biography; but even names of less eminence will be inserted for thepurpose of reference, though by a peculiar and novel arrangement, they will not beallowed to encroach upon the space devoted to the more important biographies.Bradbury and Evans, Printers, Whitefriars.

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